Evening Star Newspaper, August 6, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, AUGUST 6, 1898—24 PAGES. Dopsright, 1898, by t — News Servic pondenes of 1 NEW YORK, nners w of en on W tional Literary and Bpec h many flowers rtaining. shington squar loth, but ar- | 2 work under each | ubra and bowls of rich dark in the middle. A lio dinner was ed at a round table whose center spread e-pink gauze was puffed into mounds and hollows, wher? nestled pink, yellow, r roses with their own foliage. r bowl filled with r nd fern At an nd down t oak A cceupied the middie. Poppy dinners have been given, and dinners wher: irises, yel- e, formed the principal deco- lets and rosettes of nastur- ticms or sweet peos are arranged with the wire bas?s that florists use, and dotted about a table with vines or trails of green connecting them. Toilets for such midsummer festivi areas airy and diaphanous as may be. The hostess at a luncheon party wore whi ion wit! wemen whom war or business exi- gencies have kept at home, and, given that not un sual possession, a grape arbor, or a sheltering tree with vines tg screen the fences, worse places for aie ee teas or Ivnches can be imagined. One garden nook thus throw s almost blinding to the ey ame-colored nasturtiums rom the m and carpeted Tugs, tea was served by two sisters, one wearing green muslin embroid- ered in gray and sashed with red chiffon and the other gray musiin with rich emer- ald green sash and nasturtiyms on the shoulder with Dbur rden party in Brooklyn a vacant » good to look at with huge rella canopies, palms and Organdie muslins were in broadly striped with flowers. One charming costume was patterned with gar- and trimmed with insertions ure. The sleeves, half-long. by suede gloves; the hat was a rnt straw with crown of white muslin and trimmings of long white ostrich plumes. A turquoise-blue muslin dress was nade very simply; small tucks encircled trees. pi bi nating with bands of insertion in black Valenciennes; sleeves to the elbow were finished with loop Lows of black velvet rib- muslin, the skirt trained and adorned lace and narrow white satin ribbon. A quaint scarf of blue chiffon was thrown about the shoulders and tied in front, with floating ends. Blue and white bachelors’ tons with feathery green entered into ch2me of table decoration. black siik muslin, dotted adorned with blue ribbon, and insertions of both white Valenciennes. Anoth lawn as trans: down the Skirt h whit? Valencienne: The fichu bodice showed a chemisette of tucked white and lawn. A Backyard Backyard parties hav about the flounce FOR THE BABY. Daintiness ix the Chief Feature to Be Considered in Clothes. ton P cl are Ss seem rather ges each new | is of the bab! there manner hions in but e outla nit mone} » the amount to ten long dre: utfit, some ef them trimmed. » the ply It is now as four | favorite Just now y's gown is ver to the of the yoke there are both equally popular. One ks, ru he lac 1 scalloped upper e bib has d silk, tr by a full ¢ er part is hi the outer fted silk he med on both upper ep of silk roidered, | and inner bib is | rt-shaped pad of | ner is made from a fine linen | handkerchi folded diagon- } r point is cut out V shape and | » e trimmed. | > flannel around | coats are of fi ane! and | on each shoulder by two tiny but- tead of down the back. | : awn show much shirring | . and some, especially those of ed muslin, have a lining of a pale ¢ of thin silk. i t fashionable thing in habie ‘kings, for wear with the first ! are gray suede shoes and ching exactly in color. y of bedford cord have deep lar rutfies trimmed with guipure lace } In shorter coats, a pretty model in pique has a very deep rounding collar trim- med entirely with rows of Hamburg edg- ing alternated by rows of satin ribbon. A design in a bedford cord short coat has | three deep circular capes, each one edged re lace. basket covering, sheer white lawn k or blue is the latest, the point d'esprit lace being also used. The rufile is trimmed with lace and rows of baby -rib- bon und the joinings and seams are finish- ed by a narrow lace beading through which is run a ribbon. —_—_—__ Corsets in Ru: Brom the Sctentifie American. Bogoljewow, the newly appointed Rus- sian minister of public instruction, hes be- gun the duties of his office by issuing a @rastic order to the effect that corsets must not be worn by young women attend- ing high schools, universities and music and art schools; they are to be encouraged to wear the national costume. The minis- | to he ; Jong, narrow, coffin. bon. The large flat Manila straw hat was trimmed with black ostrich plumes and turned up on one side with an enormous rosette of blue mouss2line de soie. And a foamy white parasol. A vivid sulphur-colored muslin was toned down with black lace insertions. A white otted muslin made with three skirts eéged with ecru lace, mounted over a white sitk foundation, The folded bodice with transparent chemisette was of the cool, col- lari variety. Blue velvet Louis knots at waist and shoulder repeated the tints of the succory flowers upon the Leghorn hat and of the large blue parasol. In Summer Dress. Never has New York been so attract in midsummer. Fewer people have left the city than usval, and streets end parks blossom all day long with vivid coloring. Blue, pink, bright red, yellow and purple predominate, but these are mellowed and softened by the white draperies worn by yeung and old. Smart duck skirts, dar- ingly circled with bands of strong color, have cool-lcoking linens and crashes for restful backgrounds. Gauzes, crepes, mus- lins and chiffons blow airily hither and thith®, corscious of greater safety for their fragile fineries than they would find among the mountains or at the seashores. The laws of dress relax their inflexibilit: and a picturesqueness results thai is eye- uisfying. Pale gray, mauve, the more | delicate pinks and biues are the tints that are most pleasing on close acyuaintance, but in a park perspective or as a blotch of color on top of a coach the audacity of the frequent orange or scarlet is something to be grateful for. A park toilet that attracted attention yesterday was of black and whiie striped foulard, the groundwerk white, the stripe appearing at wide intervals and somev.hat fronourced. Like so many of this season's Cresses, the fullness was due to the cut; the skirt was neither founced nor made into a double skirt, but the fringed trim- ming was so put on as toe give the appeal anee of a long drooping everskirt, with pointed sides. A tomato-red velvet ‘waist- band was in daring contrast. Select From These. A pale coffee-colored muslin was em- broidered in a delicate blush-rose pink and made with a chemisette of rose-toned gauze. The waistband was Parma violet color. A pink parasol was carried. A red and white foulard was accentuated by Louis knots of black velvet, and worn with a rustic hat of red straw, with other Louis knots fastening large red poppies. A white pique gowa, with elaborate openwork insertions, was worn with a mulberry-colored sash and hat of the same pale yellow, trimmed with camask roses. A dark blue foulard had skirt and shoul- ders frilled with white lisse, edged with light green velvet ribbon. With this ap- peared a white hat, tur: up in front and trimmed with a tomato-rod bow and four are made of linen batiste set into many tucks, alternating h insertions and finished, perhaps, with transparent lace yoke run with black or ed velvet ribbon. The old fight still over the question, thick or thin. “I wouldn't take that for a gift,” said a girl to a companion, who was exclaiming ever a dainty thing in white lawn. “It’s sure to be mussed after one wearing. White p now, will do you some service; it al- looks well.” Oh, but pique is so hot,” groaned the first girl. “I can't abide it.” And they continued to pull over the whole stock of the saleswoman. Helping Her Choose. In one of the big shops yesterday a deli- cately pretty girl, evidently a bride, and as evidently from cut of town, was choosing costumes with the assistance of her young husband. A white muslin was brought out, lavishly embroidered with motifs in black Chantilly. “But that's so old,” objected the custom- er; “and besides it’s half mourning.” “Not at all, I assure you,” said the sales- woman. “Positively there is nothing else so fashionable. “It wouldn't go at all at home, do you think so?’ questioned the wife, and the husband emphatically agreed that it would not go. Black and white has become so general as to threaten monotony, and I do not think the unsophisticated bride was far wrong in preferring a white Swiss muslin with three flounces and opening in front over a panel of fine embroidered net; lapels of the same net crossed over the V at the throat and fastened under a green velvet bow. A Swi: musiin hat adorned with green tulle and corn flowers completed the outfit. Another of the bride’s purchases was a pale blue pique made with a deep, shaped flounce and intended to be worn’ with a short tabbed jacket of red cloth, the front tabs longer than those behind. The jacket opened upon a blue lawn blouse whose broad collar of lace and insertion turned over the jacket collar and covered the shoulders. THE BATH TUB, Some Hints That Will Add to Its Comforting Qualities. From the Philadelphia Record. A great deal of cemfort may be enjoy2d who have ordinary bath tub fa- a little attachment which gives ilege of a shower bath. This bber hose with metal ros2. slipped onto the faucets. nE On an exhav a cold shower bath. The bath it- If need not be cold; it can be adjusted to whatever temperature is comfortable. But b It Itis ting summer day reost bi | the cold spray of the rose is exhilarating, and yeu hold the tube in your hand and it flexible you can direct the cooling hower as you will over the body.- This has advantages over the stationary shower, nee attached Ligh up and weil over the bath. Most of this shower went on the floor of the bath room, over one’s clothes or on the furniture and wall paper. Fortu- nately it Is no longer the custom to place a aped tub in a dress- short tubs are more ing rcom. The squar2 | ccmfortable. They should not be too high. mes one longs for a stepladder by n to ascend the side and scale the bath Rather low tubs, broad every way, hold all the water required, and as few of us expect to swim in the tub there is no occasion for the bath to be long and narrow. It is exas- perating to have the housemaid dent or chip the interior of the tub by setting down her pitchers for filling. Wh2re the house- maid has no separate spigot from which to fill her pitchers and buckets a rubber mat should be at hand to be placed under the pigot and to keep the vessels from touch. ing the tub. Som? bath tubs have the wa | ter, hot and cold, welling up from the bot- tom. This apparently is to circumvent the housemaid. It is not pleasant to a fastidious person- age to have one’s bath in general use by others. But few of us have our own dr2ss- jing baths for individual use, although the English custom of portable rubber or tin baths has some followers. There ts all the more reason for giving exquisite cleanness and attention to the family bath tub. Victoria's Ancestry. Queen Victoria, who has been sixty years on the throne of Great Britain, is the niece of William IV, who was the brother of George IV, who was the son of George III, who was the grandson of George I, who was the son of George I, who was the cousin of Anne, who was the sister-in-law of William III, who was the son-in-law of James Il, who was the brother of Charles JI, who was the son of Charles I, who was the son of James I, who was the cousin of Elizabeth. who was the sister of Mary, who was the sister of Edward VI, who was the son of Henry VII, who was the son of Henry Vil, who was the cousin of Richard iI, who was the uncle of Edward IV, who was the cousin of Henry VI, who was the son of Henry IV, who was the cousin of Richard II, who was the grandson of Ed- ward III, who was the son of Edward If, who was the son of Edward I, who was the son of Henry Ili, who was the®on of John, ter says that he has spent much time in visiting girls’ schools, and nas mede the discovery that the corset as an article of dress is distinctly prejudicial to the health and physical development of the wearers, who was the brother of Richard I, who was the son of Henry If, who was the cousin of Stephen, who was the cousin of Henry I, who was the brother of William Rufus, who was the son of Willlam the Conquer- or, 800 years ago. THE WELL-DRE SED WOMAN. All Things in Her Toilet Harmonious but Not Conspicuous. From the Woman's Home Companion, The well-dressed woman is not only well gowned, but all the small details of her toilet are given consideration. Her hair, skin and nails show evidences of care and painstaking, and her clothing has not only been well made, but is well kept. There are some women who think it almost sin- ful to pay much attention to dress and personal care, and to look well dressed and stylish is quite beneath their ambition. But, believe me, there is no sin in always trying to look your best, and that the game is well worth the candle will show in whe influence upon your home, husband aad children. The well-dressed woman is not the one who @resses the most extravagantly, or employs the most fashionable dressmaker; nor is she the one who affects all ultra- styles and fads in dress; but it is she who is always consistently dressed with regard to time, place, occasion, age and the size of her husband's or father’s Income. The ever-bright jewel of consistency is never more beautiful than when shown in the matter of dress in these days when so many showy and pretty baubles are design- ed and offered for woman's adornment. We all owe a duty to our familles, our- selves and society at large to make the best of ourselves in every way, and to be always well dressed is one of the ways of doing it. Care in dress argues a certain respect for one’s self, and people are very prone to take you at your own estimate. The well-dressed woman aims to have ali things in her toilet harmonious, having no one feature conspicuous. You know at a glance she is well gotten up, and yet no one particular thing claims your attention. She does not put on all soris of incongru- cus combinations, nor is she ever over- dressed. To be underdressed is always more commendable and safer than to be overdressed. a How to Lacquer Brass. From the Chicago Times-Herald. “If your brass bedstead tarnishes,” said a dealer in beds and bedding, “you can send it to a repair shop and have it newly lecquered for anywhere from $2.50 to $5. It will look as well as new and last as leng.”” He said it in all gravity, but there was a sert of expression in his eye which sug- gested a hidden meaning, and roused cu- riosity. “How do they do it?” 4 “Why should I tell you a trade secret?” he replied. “But, after all, this is hardly a it is common to°so many all those which use brass fittings, in fact. The gasfitter and the picture frame maker, as well as the furniture man, the dealer in grates, the candlestick mak- er as well, all make use of jt. Nearly all brass work, except that on shipboard, is lacquered te prevent corrosion and avoid the labor of frequent polishing. The lac- quer is simply gumi shellac dissolved fr. al- cohol, This makes a thin varnish, which is applied with a small paint brush. Ten cents’ worth of materials will lacquer your brass bedstead, and an ordinary workman will do the job inside of an hour, at a total cost of from 35 to 60 cents,” HOUSEHOLD HINTS One of the first things that Americans ad- mitted into the family life of the English gentry notice is the graceful and simple in- terohang2 of hospitalitys with no sign of “fuss,” nor yet of “feathers.” Nearly ali Englishwomen ride the wheel, not so much for the mere pleasure of riding as for the convenience. Country houszs are far apart, bht distances do not seem to count, and every pleasant afternoon one is sure io see a party of ladies on their, wuy to call on some friends. A light -tea consisting of sandwiches and tea cakes is served cach afternoon with the “cup that cheers” on the lawn or in the drawing’ room of every house, and callers: have" the priviiege of taking any guests they may happen to have staying with them Without th: | ity of waiting for a call or a special inyit: tion. Bicycle skirts are worn much longer there than here, so that they are in no Ways noticeable when the rider is off her | Wheel As every large house bas a retinue of servants, thoroughly trained, the hostess has not the slightest anxiety lest her guesis be neglected. A maid is always at band to do what she may for the comfort of the guest: Three men serve at a dinner for twelve, and two are at hand to meet guests at the door, one to open it and the other to make the announcement in the drawing room. Cards are not used unlzss the ncst- ess is not at home. The newest nursery plates are not only lovely in design, but suggestive in thought to the little folks so fortunate as to possess them. Thzre are colored designs of scenes scriptural, historic or familiar through nur- sery tales, while underneath are mottoes or verses descrip-ive of the illustration. On these plates David and Goliath renew tneir engagement, Little Boy Blu2 blows his horn, John Gilpin continues his historic ride unto “the wash of Edmonton so gay,” and Cinderella, the prince and the fairy godmother assume their respective roles. Som2 of the more expensive historical plates introduce the coats-of-arms and flags of the nations they represent as a border about the central design. While a year ago it was aimost impossible to find purely American designs, the prasent bursting wave of patriotism has brought in its wake Dewey, Hobson and naval plates in abu dance, while the American flag runs riot in borders as well as central designs. Whoever has once b2en fortunate enough to eat Georgia waffles prepared by one of the good oid mammy cooks of that state will rank them “far above the rest” of the waffle fraternity. Two eggs, on2 pint of flour, cne and one-half cupfuls of mili or cream, butter the size of a walnut and a saltspoon of salt are the requisite inzredi- ents, to which may be added a scant tea- spoonful of baking powder if cn2 wishes to make assurance of lightness doubly sure. Mix the baking powder—if used—and the salt well in the flour by sifting and rub in the butter. Beat the eggs thoroughly, add to the milk, then to the flour and b2at again until about the consistency of rather thin paste. Have the waffle irons very hot anc well greased and bake immediately. Serve with buttar, syrup or honey. A new recipe for delicious home-made peanut candy that finds a ready market at the church fair or lawn festival is made in this way: Shell one quart of peanuts, skin and roll fine. This quantity of nuts when measured should make just a coffee cup full. Put a heaping coffee cup of granu- lated sugar in an iron granite pan, set on a very hot fire, and stir constantly until it melts, remembering that it must melt quickly to be a success. Meantime put the peanuts in the oven to heat, and have pans buttered and put on the back of the range, where they will be hot.- As soon as the last of the sugar is melted, pour the hot peanuts into it, take directly off the fire, and pour into the hot buttered pans. The candy when cold can be broken into pieces, and should be thin, crisp and shiny. There are a few special points in gr ing wafile irons that are well for the novi to bear in mind. Put the frons over the fire unti) hot on each side,’ then rub both griddies with a piece of salt pork or suet on a fork or a bit of butter or sweet drippings tied in a clean cloth. The heat will melt the butter and let it run through the cloth. Close the griddlés and reverse, which will allow the fat to run evenly ovet them, Put the batter into the center of the waffie iron over the fire, cover and cook a moment on one side, turn and cook a little longer on the other. A bed of bright nasturtiums Is a constant delight from various points of view. While always ornamental, the nasturtium leaves, blossoms and seeds are appetizingly edible as well. The leaves, sprinkled lightly with salt and spread between thin slices of bread and butter, are among the daintiest of sandwiches for the picnic basket or the afternoon tea. The blossoms are delicious in a salad with a French dressing, while the seeds, gathered when small and green, before the inner kernel has become hard, are admirable substitutes for capers or a welcome addition to any mixed pickle. A brown or gray linen skirt that has be- come stained or spotted may be freshened and restored to eminent respectability by soaking for a few hours and washing in a decoction of hay tea. If the cured hay is not at hand, a few handfuls of grass cut from the lawn and@ dried may be used. Put it in a kettle of cold water, and steep for an hour on the back of the range. Strain and soak, and wash the skirt. This may alter the original color a little, making it more the tint of the grass cloth, but it is pret! and effective in disposing of t spot#and stains. The pretty English fashion of hanging portraits all down the sides of the sta: case is obiaining a following among Am cans as well. One young Ameri matr; who has spent much time abroad, and who is a great admirer of the good Eng queen, has her staircase lined with thirty prints of her majesty, taken at vary ng ages. Whether a truly patriotic American would find equal pleasure in a row of the Presidents of the United States is a ques- tion that admits of doubt from an esthetic standpoint at least, “Baltimore trotters!” is the resounding ery of a Brooklyn colored “uncle” who is making a good living from the sale of these old southern dainties. The pigs’ feet are scraped and washed clean, put into a saucepan with hot—not boiling—water to cover, and simmered for three or four hours until tender. They should be s: a to taste when about half done. They are then packed in a stone crock and covered with spiced hot vinegar. They are ready for use in a day, and may bé eaten hot or cold. “Uncle Remus” sells them piping hot in cold weather and cold in August days, charging 5 cents for a “‘trotter” and its accompanying slice of bread. It is customary with a real “Virginny” cook to boil a whole ham at a time until nearly tender, and then slice from that for broiling or frying to serve with eggs. Hams or strips of bacon that are to be kept on hand during the summer are rubbed all over outside with a thin coating of hickory ashes to prevent moldier rust. es In following recipes for the canning and preserving of fruit it shold be remem- bered that a quart of fruit.must be meas- ured in a quart measure, nat in the trades- men’s baskets, which vary in size, but are never a full scriptural quagt. Fruits and vegetables should be sold. here as they are abroad, by the weight,,instead of by meas- ure, . * After a ham has been boiled, and before. getting entirely cold, Jt will be fouai o good plan to wrap ardund it a long s:rip of thin, old muslin, tying it on with a string. This may be tirned back as vast az the ham is sliced, wh}le in,the meinwhile it keeps the edible from the intrusion cf would-be familiar flies. ~ pas To prepare nasturtign sééds for pices or capers remove the stem# and let them stand in salted water over fight. Pack in small bottles and cover with boiling vine- gar.. If preferred, spices and a little sugar may be added. s Ribbons and silks may be cleansed 2nd freshened by washing in naphtha, while Brease spots on the most delicate fabrics may be removed by sponging the spot in naphtha, ———+e--__—_ To Keep Gilt Frames Clean. From the Ladies’ Home Jcnvaal. To clean gold picture frames, beat the white of “an egg; add to it one pint 6f cold Water; moisten your frames with this mix- ture, using a : fe with a soft flannel carefully wipe: e a second cloth, perfectly dry, and give the frames a. light rubbing. If the frames are not clean and bright after this treatment, you had better take them to a gilder and ‘inve them FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Sweet Simplicity Ordained for Future Belles, Sensible Mothers Know How Youth- fal Charms Are Best Set OM—A Model Dancing Dress. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, August 4, 1898. A very brief inspection of the gowns worn by girls under eighteen at summer hotels will give one a fair idea of the refinement and good taste of the families to which the young girls belong. Most conspicuous are the daughters of the nouveaux riche, who at a tender age are allowed to wear clab- orate gowns and impossible hats. More quietly gowned ana less often in evidence are the girls who are being carefully trained to take their places as society women in the course of a few years, For these well- rearéd embryo belles there are many pret yet simple gowns and garnitures. To begin with, each one wears her hair in the simpiest schoolgirl fashion—gener- ally in a straight braid or pigtail, as girls themselves dub it, with two soft round curls on the brow, or often no curls at all, and the hair waved softly back. Very tall girts turn their hair up and tie the braid with a bow of ribbon or knot it softly at the back of the braid. The long braid or braid turned up with the bow of ribbon are considered the most suitable. Frocks are worn only to the ankles, and all symptoms of wearing “grown up” gowns are carefully suppressed. Sailer hats for ordinary gowns and leg- berns or white straws for more elaborate toilets are usually worn by young girls whkese mothers gown them with the sweet simplicity which should be symbolic of this golden age of youth. Elaborate flowers :culd be eschewed, and hats of formal shape. An English walking hat with the crown half covered with nodding red roses was seen lately on a girl of sixteen, whose easygoing mother allcws her to choose het own clothes without any regard to expens: It was one of the best examples of what a girl or that age should’not wear. Tight-fittiag gowrs are never chosen by careful mammas for growing daughters For them a plain cloth skirt and reefer or zouave jacket worn with shirt waists is ideal. The shirt waist lends itself most successfully to the slender figure of young girl, and no oider woman can hop: to hold a candle to her if they both appea: at the same time in this ubiquitous gar- ment. The freshness of the young giri’s skin and the fresh starched linen blend in a most artistic manner. Lawns and mulls are particularly to young girls, but mean, of course, large laundry bills, as freshness is an absolute necessity to their success, and active girls should and do tumble their frocks. Most gcwns in the wardrobe of a young girl are made with full skirts and trimmings la embroidery and ribbon. In these d okes, bloases or full fronts and s or boleros the daughter's gowns suitable mer should be much less elaborate. £trange to relate, with all this elaborate implicity of outer garb, the young (1 ters of official households are allow jail Uest and most expe: nts which are in vogu ular family. For undergarments, it m: observed, are differently favored cemilies, according to the ideas of its head. Many women of luxurious tastes and hab- its favor quite simple lingerie, while o*ten ive und in that partic- those whose gowns are of the simplest revel in undergowns of daintiness rnd ceauty. Women whose husbands have jong battled for the comfort acknowledged can be bought only with the root of al. evil’ never reconcile them- Ives to the free use of money to the ex- tent of squandering it upon their personal urobserved adornment, and their daugh- ters are dressed simply as to lingerie. even if sometimes overdressed as to gowns. Timely Wisdom Taught. Wise women, however, who have a sta- tion in life to which they hope their @augh- ters will succeed foster in these growing giris refinement and luxury by surround- ing them with as much daintiness and beauty as their financial situation allows, always limiting them to that outward sim- piictey, of adorrment which is the height of taste The silk petticoats of young girls, for in- stance, are quite as elaborate and beauti- ful as those made for older women. Their stockings and gloves receive the same care and attention and the former are of silk if wearing silk hose happens to be the fortune of that particular family. Her shoes re- quire even more attention, for the tender feet must b2 most carefully fitted and shod at an age where they have scarcely stopped growing and their future symmetry depends upon present care. Most young girls wear low-cut shoes or tizs with bulldog toes, low heels and moderately heavy soles all sum- mer, and heavy waterproof buttoned boots in the winter. Very smart and pretty are the black satin dancing pumps of the youthful future belle. These are zeneraily worn with scarlet silk stockings, and often che ribbons of the gown match the red of the hose. The matching of hose and sash ribbons, however, is not confined to young sirls alone, as their sisters who are already “out” oft2n appear with gorgeous-hued Ro- man sashes about their waists, while pecp- ing from out a dainty petticoat is a stock- ing which flashes the same gay Roman stripe. Although the present raze for decorations has made jewelry very popular, so much so that the fortunate possessors of strings of pearls wear them upon all and e on and eften in Meu of a collar, th light of the heart of a growing girl nied her by her up-to-date mamma. which it must E gles, brooches and chains are not consider- 2d suitable for a girl in her early teens. A Rose in Her Hair. The only adornment she is permitted at the festivitics which are so much more to her than they will be in the days to come an is a single rose or carnation in her smooth- ly braided hair. This seems rather hard, for though the years to come may bring her jewels in rrofusion she cannot get from them the delight which a single bracelet or ring will afford her before she has come to twenty years. The dancing gowns of daughters who are not yet out are generally of some trans- parent material over a silk sip. A gown of ivory white net embroidered with seed pearis was recently seen. The wearer had her hair smoothly braided and hanging to her waist. She wore the scarlet hose and black pumps above described, and instead of gloves had on long white silk mittens. The gowa was decolette of course, and short sleeved. Gown and girl together were a vision of youthful loveliness, which made one dream of a too near future when the simplicity would be cast aside, but the love- liness remain, MABEL BOYD. —_+__. My Lady’s Slipper. From the Cleveland Leader. My lady’s slipper sees a very radical change this summer. It is no more plain and unadorred; no longer does a simple little bow or vnobtrusive rosette orna- ment it. Instead, the slipper is a very gor- geous affair. It glistens, both by sunlight and the gleam of gas or electricity, for it is a jeweled slipper, and, oftener than other- wise, elaborately jeweled. The style is to have these slipper jewels match the pin or necklace you are wearing, both in the gems themselves and in the setting. When fantastic and curicus designs are worn, in ocdly finished gold, the effect is exceed- ingly picturesque and attractive. Rhine- stones are to be favorite slipper ornaments of the summer, diamonds being, cf course, too valuable to be allowed to twink!e care- lessly on one’s feet, The Fashion in Capes. From the Cleveland Leader. Even the crdinarily plain cloth cape has succumbed to the prevailing fever for elaborate decoration, and now shows itself frivolously decked with. pinked cut ruch- ings of silk ruffiings of ribbon or embroid- er:es of paillettes, the tendency of all the trimming being to take an upward curve ia the fronts, which are invariably shorter than the back. Some of the newest capes fall far below the knee level, while their 1 4 French. Zranslation: - estime la levure ~ de Cleveland la meillure. Toute personne qui I’ em- ploie s’accordera avec moi.” "I find Cleveland's baking powder the best. Anyone who will try it will agree with me.” J. Duranp, Ex-President French Cooks’ Association of New York Cleveland Baking Powder Co. New York. (Advertisement No.2, Language and Sign Series.) PPO PEE PEED PDP EP DED S ® Cleveland's CKKKKRK RRR RR __ BAKING POWDER € 46 C644 SE COMFORT IN SUMMER. A Few Ideas That May Add to Your Happiness. From the Decorator and Farnisher. Comfcrtable Mving during the summer requires vastly different essentials and ac- cessories from those with which we sur- round ourselves in winter. To many wo- | nen fortunate in possessing a country seat ard a city home, or who have only to i orders for transforming a house by taking up carpets, reoiling the floors, repiacing beavy curtains with lighter ones and up- | heistered furniture with willow or wood, the problem is perfectly simple. But to the | housewife whose one effort in winter is ta make her little dwelling homel warm and cozy, to change these small expense into restful, ing ones for the humid is a momentou question. WAR HELPED WOME Civil Conflict Gpened the W: for Women in Business, From the New Orleans Picayune. One of the most interesting, as well as important factors in the labor problem to- day is the employment of women in the various departments of labor ence reserved for men, and the competition of women with men in the struggle for life. The ¥ There were 22,000,000 persons of both Sexes engaged in inful pursuits of all sorts in 18. Of these, about 4,000,000 were females and 15,00,00%) males. There were, according to the cen: about 100,000 families in the 1860 there were abc both sexes, and of t 500.009. United States. In 101,00) workers of tieth, or engaged cotton mills tM oped that th spend mz ing hours is broad, d provident har. nd it, thus securing comfort, shade. However, growing vine, a very p' brought into veranda upon which of her reaging and | zd vines | trst the if t the top board of the ¥: or on } serewed on the Place in these boxes, if it is ps plants or nasturtium, or any other which can be had already start greenhouse. These vi wires to the porch roo: ful shade. A large hammock in which on comfortably can be hung from one in climbing on the will give a delight- of the porch. The me ccol chairs are those made o w:liow, but these a expensive and not very substantial, and, as we are furni this veranda as cheaply must look for more “home miz Wooden chairs and a bench, ps k green and varnished, will com ives for economy's e and dura- A folding table or several of them, sny e one wishes, fastened to the side of the railing with hinges, forms the table part unde th being screwed a leg or br: which, when displaced, ellows the board to lie flat down against the wall or railing. B: this it is out of the way, but can Le Sily set up again, making a convenient stand upon which to lay one’s sewing bas- ket, books or tea things. Cushions made of denim or burlap are to be used on the chairs, bench, hammock and steps. Keep them in different s! of blue, gray, green and brown. Th cool looking and restful colors sugg of water, sky and forest. A few nainted Chinese lanterns hung on Wires from one post to another of the ver. anda lends a decorative touch to the scene, and, when lighted in the evening, give mel- lcw glow and restive appearance Inside the house, crepe paper has become quite a factor in summer decoraticas, It ecmes in stch a variety of shades and de- signs and lends itself so daintily to decora- tions of every form that it has retained its popularity through several seasons, It can be draped successfully over a shelf or man- tel and festooned on the massive fremes of mirrors or paintings, taking. preceden-e over the time-honored (becoming, tnank gcodness, “more honored in the breach") mesquito netting. Crepe paper, draped as a curtain or fs tened on a frame, can be utilized as a fire- place screen. The grate should .ot be clcsely covered, for it is a splendid venfti- lator, ner can it be left entirely open—a yawning black hole to s} the dainty color scheme of one’s room. soe Bath. From the Chattanooga News. Berut The temperature of a beautifying bath should be from 70 to 75 degree na it should be of daily occurrence. con- } taining almond meal, oatmes ad orris reot should be placed in the a few moments before the bath This renders the water ver nd has a wonderfull i ing effec in which mil been pl. e for the coa: used. Sort: be obtained made famou arch ha of a simple a the Greek and Roman wo- men. The following is delightfully exhila- rating after the bath: Best white vinegar, ene pint; rosemary, rue camphor and iav- ender, of each t drachms. Let the herbs | soak in the vinegar for several hours, then | strain, rub thoroughly all over the body. and a deliciously comfortuble feeling and a dainty perfume will remain with one all day loni Yt y, perhaps, not be known to every one that a real salt bath can be t s weil at home as at the seashore, m exhilaration of wind and wave. A cup of rock salt dissolved in water and added to the bath is most refreshing to the exhaust- ed body. But don’t go out of doors soon after taking it. The best time to indulge in the luxuries of a salt bath is.just at bed- time. A cold stream which exhales a delightful fragrance, and one which acts Ike magic on the sun-parched skin, is gmade of thick sweet cream, into which has been taken tincture of benzoin and a little salpeter. “nis serves as an excellent emollient and is refreshing. The ingredients used will pre- serve the cream firm and sweet for several days, or much longer in cool places. | whos ding y in the 1 had gone of the west were found gland states, awa aor to th and left their wo- j men dependent. In the west and in the 1 went away from t if so, they were = hold duties in familie south a woman home to work. occupied with house- After the civil south suffered more than any oth d many women were left sc it was a new thir see white the southern sto work in avenues th y closed to women. rvice monopolized b; aght up t hat sort of work. osts of teaching the young ¢id not places for all who were forred tc ork, and thus the white women of the uth emulated their sisters of the north nd west in seeking the m of earning a livelihood in every honcrable work with- in their capacity, and however much the necessity for such a state ings js re- gretted. it must be rn all the same. It is not only unmanly, but it is ont- rag y unjust for men to complain that women are driving them out of employ- ment. Nes fi There are 00,000 heads of fami- e United States. Some of these are widows, but the greatest number are men. There are men enough in the country to support all the women, if they would. The fact is that they do not. It is their own t fault. If every man who pretends to be a man were supporting a woman, as he should, there would probably 4,000,000 places in offices, stores, shops and factories that are now occupied by women workers left free to men, and the women would be at_ home. The worst feature in the entire situation is that the women are put off with almost cne-Lalf the wages given to men for the same service. This is an outrage in many cases. When the women acquire the power in business which they have always been able to wield in love they will correct the evil of lower wages, too. Sa Fe Now It’s Pneumatic Corsets. From the Chattanooga News. A corset made of rubber ts adapted for the use of women who are learning to swim. The corset is cut on the same gen- eral lines of all corsets, and made double, the air space between the two S$ may be blown up and serve to present a neat appearance to the figure, but also to buoy it up and give confidence to the timid. A lack of confi- dence is responsible for the slowness with which this accomplishment is learned by women, and this corset should prove a boon to women who delight in aquatic sports, but have no hardihood for them. The very knowledge that they cannot sink leaves their brain clear enough to think of the proper strokes for hands and feet, and as soon find they can move through the water from one place to another and become accustomed to these movements the corset may be discarded. It is much more shapely than the big rubber rings and cork life preservers, and, in fact, does not show at all, as it conforms to the shape of the wearer. Traveling Costames, Fem Harper's Bazar, What to wear when traveling is a ques- tien. that interests the minds of women who only go away for a day or two at a time just as.much as those who are for- tcnate enough to be reg r travelers. It is quite as necessary to jook well for a day’s outing as it is for a long journey, and nobody likes to be inappropriately dressed in these days when it §s possible to dress well. It is not wise nor desirable to put aside some shabby old gown with the idea that anything is good enough to take journey, for there are few places where a gown s! its good and bad points than in a rallway car or on a steam*oat. The day is gone by for peopie to go about with any amount of hand luggage; everything is put in the that is poss and only enough left out to make one verfectly comfortable, without carr: ing a quantity of shawls, coats, &c., as formerly. (Copyright, 1808, Life Publishing Compeny.} THE LASS THAT LOVED A SAILOR.