Evening Star Newspaper, July 16, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 16, 1898-24 PAGES. 1 guard. 3—Hand gu shield. target. little longer than the lower, but this fs as WITH BOW AND ARROW | #stesia"s. Making the Bow. ee aes Next, cut th® notches for the string, as = shown in the illustration. You can make A Source of Great Fun for Boys in| norn tips it you like, first softening the Summer Time. HOW THEY CAN BE MADE A? HOME Simple Directions Which Almost Any One Can Follow. A GOOD TO BECOME SHOT --) n for The Evening Star. F BOYS TODAY are built on the same plan as when I was a youngsier— and I don't believe they have chang2d much—there 1s hard- ly anything that an be whittled out of wood or hammercd out of iron with which more “fun” can be had than a good bow and a dozen arrows. Only, if one is really to have fun—which, you know, is the boy's word for good sport— the bow be a “real” one, strong and springy, gh in it to throw 2 hundred yi e at an easy angie, and the arrows must be the real thing, too, made to fly straight and hard and Of course, such weapons aré not toys, are no more to be and oe To n a loaded gun. must have right idea how to h: our tools, and though they can easily be bought, most of you will want to know how to construct them. I hope to be able to make both these matter: tain and fairly easy, for I have m quit self been through it all. You can't pos: bly do any successful shooting with little flat bows held crosswise, such as I tried to use at first, nor with short, unfeathered arrows held on the string betwen the thumb and finger. You must follow the general method of the old English arch ers, who easily drove their shafts through heavy {ron mail and could spiit a peeled willow rod almost as far a3 they could see it. You can at least learn to send a nted arrew through an inch or so e pine, and to hit the crown of a @ times out of ten at thirty yards. The Proper Material. to the length of your bow. First, When strung it should be about your own as height inch: and straight make your own bow, elm will answer, but are inferior, and for that it must be about three 1 slack The best wood to use, if you is hickory. Ash and having to “set.” Sassafras, mulberry | locust are also recommended. tried them. If you buy of the bow. horn in boiling water; but It will answer every purpose if you cut the notches neatly in the wood. Don't cut them too deep Now, string your bow, bending it slightly— any stout cord will do at this point—and scrape the wood with a bit of sharp glass until the curve is absolutely even from tip to tip. Try the strength of your weapon by holding it upright at arm's length and cau tiously drawing the string to your cheek. If it is too stiff work it down by more scraping until you can readily control it. Finally, when it just suits you, smooth and polish the wood with the finest sandpaper you can get, varnish the surface with good varnish and let {t dry thoroughly. Wrap the handle smoothly with green tape, fa ening it with glue. if all this has be done with care and skill, you have provided f with a handsome and extremely > bow after the old English model. make your own bowstring, u linen twine or packthread double: it is strong enough, lightly and twisted, and well waxed. Don't it is too elastic. At one end stout until smoothly use fish line; make a loop just big enough to slip easil over the end of the bow, and bind it firm ly with waxed linen thread. Siide this loop three or four inches down the upper limp of the bow and tie the other end to the notch of the lower limb, using the knot shown in the illustration; the picture makes it much plainer than any amount of e planation in words. Adjust this knot so that when the bow is tightened the string will stand out about six inches from the bow at the handle. When it is well settled proper position wrap the middle of it for four or five inches very smoothly with silk. Mark the point which lies ex- ctly opposite the middle of the bow (just above the handle) by using thread of different color. Alw put the notch tMe arrow on this ma To tighten (or “bra lower end ag foot. grasp th hand, and with a of ) your bow, set the nst the inside of your left handle firmly in your left your right arm raised press strongly with ycur wrist on the back of the bow, while you push up the loop into the notch with your extended finger: stration. It is quite a trick, b will soon master it. To unstrain ths bow proceed In the same manner, but flip the loop out of the notch with your thumb and fingers. The Arrows. And now you are ready for the arrows If you can afford it, buy a few; even one, as a model, will teach you more than pages of description. If you make them yourself, use hard, clean, straight-grained pine; though for very hard service ash or hickory may be employed with advantage. For a bow more than five and a half feet long make the length 28 inchs; for a short- er bow, 25 inches. With the tools already éescribed, mark the shaft down to about the thickness of a lead pencil, uniform from end to end, and absolutely straight. Cut in the end a smeoth notch about thrze-six- teenths of an inch in depth (see illustration) and be careful that it fits snugly on the bowstring, but not so tightly as to stick and drag. The feathers—withcut which no arrow will fly well—are three in number, arranged as shown in the diagram. One must be set exactly on the top side of the @rrow as it lies on the string when the bow is held flat, and this determines tho position of the others. To put them on, strip the plume from the quill—the tough “skin” of the quill will hold it together— and trim to about two and a half inches long and half an inch wide. Then glue them firmly in place by the “skin,” taking care that there shall be no snaggy pro- Jections to scratch your hand when you 5—The handle, 6—Arrow head. 7 Correct way to feather an arrow, Arrow holder & bow, lancewood is the cheapest and v lively, though somewhat liable to break. Lemon wood {s tougher, but siower. The best bows are of snakewood or yew, but they cost from $10 to $15. Ther2 are 1!so good, but expensive, bows made of two Kinds of wood glued together—-lance “backed” with hickory, for instance. But being a boy you will probably make your own weapon. If you have a ttle money to spare save ‘t for arrows, since they ere both cheaper to buy and harder to make. Get from a carriage shop a perfectly straight, clean strip of hickory, about six feet long and @ little more than an inch square. It must be thoroughly seasoned: otherwise you would need to lay it by in a ary attic for a month or two. Work it flat on the back and round on the inner side —see cross-section in the illustration. This ean bi 16 with a good jack-knife and pa- tience, but it is hard work; a jack plane end a spokeshave are a great help. Be ful to make the back on the side that ‘St shows the flat of the grainj if the grain shows edgewise along the back the bow will not be good for much. Then cut the shoot. For blunt heads old brass cart- ridges of the right size to drive snugly on are excellent, or you can cast reals of lead. If you want sharp points you will have to buy them; but the ordinary sort @re cheap enough. They fit on iike a thimble; trim the wood to fit and drive them on tightly. To protect your left wrist from tie slap of the string, you may need an arm juard of stiff leather and elastic bands—sve illus- tration. If your bow is very stiff, wear @ close-titting dogskin glove on your right hand to protect your fingers from the rasp- ing of the string. You can cut away the palm if you choose. A good quiver for your arrows is easily made of tin or leather, or even of a stiff cardboard—see illustra. tion. Rales for Shooting. And now you want to shoot; and if you also want to hit the mark, and hit it hard, you must follow these directions very close- ly. Stand erect, with your left side toward stick to the exact length you have chosen, 4nd find end mark the middle. From this point toward the lower end measure off five inches for the handle and mark it. Use a pencil; make no notches or scratches to Weaken the fiber. Then, beginning at the marks for the handle, taper the bow even- ly down with your knife or spokeshave yntil the points are about the size of your finger tip. Leave the back flat amd do all your outting on the rounded side. The up- ber limb of the bow will, of course, be o the mark, your feet eight or ten inches apa t. Grasp the bow firmly by the handle wit ) your left hand; and grasp it so that it lie: straight across your hand alon line made by the roots of your fingers, not allowing it to follow the slant of the ball of the thumb. First hold your bow nearly flat, lay your arrow on the mark at the middie, close by the hand that grips the handle, and slip the notch exactly on the middle of the string: being cut deep, it will stay in place. Hook the fingers of your right hand slightly, and catch the string on the tips (from below), so that it Hes across the middle of the ball of the last Joint. Use only the first, second and third fingers; the thumb and the little finger should touch neither string nor arrow. The end of the arrow must lle between thé first and second fingers—see {lustration. ‘The nearer the oe of your fingers you can hold the string, the better. Now raise your left arm until it points straight toward the target; this brings the bow into an upright position, the top slant- ing a very little to the right. Hold your left arm as rigid as the bowsprit of a ship, and draw back the string with a strong, even pull until your hand brushes the lower tip of your right ear. At that instant slip your fingers smoothly from the string— and away goes the arrow with a singing of the cord and a soft whistle of the feathers, if you have done all rightly. Be sure to draw your fingers off backward in loosing; never let them follow the string—and never either shove or slacken with your left hand; just hold steady. Also see to it that you hold the bow so that it will not writhe or twist in your hand as you draw the string, for that makes the arrow “clap” and “‘wag,”’ spoils the shot, and soon ruins the bow. Wear a cap; or, if you prefer, a hat, pin up the brim so that the string will not graze it. You must aim while you are in the act of drawing, not by sighting, but instinctively, just as when you throw a stone. Don't try te look along the arrow; look straight at the center of the target. The knack comes quickly if only you start right. You can “steady on your aim" for an instant just before loosing if you like, but never drag or hang fire, and always draw your arrow fuil to the head. These, in brief, are the essential points, though’ it would be easy te write a volume of hints and cautions. Of the latter I will add just one—don't per- sist In using a bow too strong for you. The force of the shot depends far inore on the liveliness of the bow than on its stiff- ness, and most of all on skillful haadling. At the Target. The usual target, its colors and their scoring values are shown in the illustra- tion. They are made of straw, and the regulation size is four feet across, Smaller targets, however, are much cheaper and almost as good. For boys and girls I would recommend a three-foot target, and thirty, forty and fifty yards as the distances for shooting. Ordinarily each areher shoots three arrows in turn, and ten of these turns (for each participant) complete a “round.” You can just as well make your own tar- get of cardboard, marking the circles with a plece of chaik and a string, and painting them the proper colors. For a backing make a.butt, or bank, of turf, five or six feet high and about eight feet long, and rest the cardboard against it. A “clout” is still easier to make and very satisfactory. This is simply a circle of white cardboard, about a foot across, stuck in the cleft end of a short stake, the point of which is stuck into the ground. This you can set up anywhere in a moment, and it is particularly good for “roving’—that is, strolling over the fields shooting as you go. There is no better practice than this “roving” -as a preparation for hunting game—if you can find it in your heart to kill the harmless creatures we call game. For my own part, I should get more pain than pleasure out of it now; yet it is not a bit worse to shoot game witn bow and arrows than with a shotgun, and it is much more sportsmanlike. You meet the creatures you hunt on fairer terms, matching your skill against theirs; to shower shot upon them from a gun is sim- ply murderous. ‘The farmers will probably pardon you for shooting blackbirds and woodcaucks, which often cause them much annoyance; and the latter, from a habit they have of sitting erect beside their holes until you come too close lient mark for a skillful and watching y exe —make archer. an IT MAKES A DIFFERENCE. Contrast Between Life at a Hotel and in Camp. From the . Louls Globe-Demoerat. It is strange what a difference a little military life can make in & man. Ther a young private in the Sth Pennsylvania cut at Camp Alger, nple. He was in Washington for several weeks last winter and he stayed at a big hotel, but nothing d him. He said the bed in his reom “the worst ever.” and that the food the limit.” He bullied the waiter and boy. The water was ver quite hot enough, the wine never just the right degree of chill. He wanted only decent comfort, he said, and the hotel didn't afford it. I saw him out at Camp Alger a week ago. His bed was the bare ground: He hadn't even lukewarm water to shave with. He had nobody to wait on him, and, indeed, seemed to be running er rands for everybody. He showed me his dinner. It was a cold potato and bread. He was perfectly happy. He has gained six pounds in two weeks, and he says that camp life ts “simply great.” Really, the Ways of men are past finding out. I met another young man I know out at Camp Alger, and, seeing a basket in my hand, he immediately wanted to know what was in it. “Because,” said he, “if it’s dainties you needn't mind. I know so many people inv Washington, you know, and I've received testimonials of the affection of all of them. I've had chocolate cake and cocoanut cake, and walnut cake, and sponge cake, and cup cake, and pound cake, and Jelly cake, and marble cake, and fruit cake, and angel food and Washington pie. If you've got any Frankfurters or ham sandwiches you're as welcome as pay day, but if it’s cake you'll oblige me by avauntin, was intimidated the bell NO MORE THE PIN CUSHION. Its Place Has Been Taken by the Pretty Pin Roll. From the London Mail. The return of needlework as a fine art and fashionable pastime accounts for the unusual array of pretty fancy articles that increase as the season advances. With the passing of the pintray came the revival of the pincushion. The monotony of its old- time pillow form is relieved by the most decided departure possivie in contour. The ultra smart pincushion is a roll thet can be spanned between the thumb and first finger, but it lengthens indefinitely ‘some- times, reaching out the full limit of the dressing table from right to left. It is of rich silk, delicately embroidered or hand- painted, and finished all round with double and even triple frills of silk and lace. The veiling fad has invaded the pincushion ranks, and silk and satin covers are over- laid with dainty folds of silk muslin that frequently have profuse decorations of their A scar atin cushion of this kind a mousseline de soie cover edged in deco nd ated with a hand-painted and | of-natural size. Delicate silks are draped in white net run with nar- row ribbons caught here and there with clusters of long-looped bows. The full table length pincushion, which is more a matter of ornament than utility, is the central tig- ure of a set, the smaller cushions pre ing the general form of decoration, rose but ranging in size to very minute patterns, de- voted, by the wa y, to little ribbon pins. +o+— LINEN AND PIQUE, Very Pretty Children’s Suits Are Made From These Materia rom Harper's Bazar. Linen is becoming more and more fashion- able for children’s wear. It Can be had in several different qualities—the heavy grass linen, the thin gray linen, which is de- lictously cool, the crash and homespun. There is no end of charming little linen suits that can be bought ready made. ‘To wear with shirt waists are very smart little skirts of plain old-§:shioned linen—the smooth kind. These “tave no trimming whatever, being simply finished with a deep hem. They are very wide, cut with many gores, ‘nave fullness eneugh in the back to make them flare out well, and are finished with a broad belt. Pique ts another material that is greatly used this year, and there are any number of styles to choose from in the ready-made suits, The piqug is not so heavy as it used to be, and is consequently cooler. Most of the ready-made suits have a skirt and jacket, or a skirt and a quite scant saflor blouse with a vest piece. These are trim- med with wide sailor coliars of pique or linen of some other color. A bright blue is pretty; also a bright red; with a pale yellow for the collar and the trimmings. Dark pique suits are not used for children, A girl must be fifteen or sixteen before ghe puts one on, and even then they look a lit- tle old. White and the light colors are much used. + eo—___ It 1s estimated that there are no fewer than 70,000,000 Europeans who wear wood- en shoes. Basswood is ordinarily employed for sabois, but willow is the best material, NEWPORT NOVELTIES What the Women at That Famous "Resort Are Wearing, ——_+ SHOWING THE GRACES OF SIMPLICITY Handsome Gowns Designed for Veranda and Beach. ~ oe RICHNESS AND ELEGANCE Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEWPORT, R. I., July 15, 1! HEN THE ROSES bloom along the cliffs and the Jingle of silver harness wakés Bellevue ave- nue, then to ail who love her the summer capital is beautiful. Newport’s is an or- dered beauty, with mueh sacrifice of pic- turesqueness and much gain of state and conservatism. Th women whose scarlet-hoodd beach chairs dot the broad lawns, who gather at tea fights on spacious verandas furnished like dainty summer parlors, and who make casino and golf club as bright and busy are the Seal rocks with their crowds of gulls, are not more beautifally dressed than the women at other resorts; they are not differently dressed, except that they go to fewer ex- tremes. The vagaries of attire have, as a rule, little attraction for them, and they may miss the occasioral success of orig- inality and daring, but the charms of rich- ness and elegance, and often the graces of simplicity, are to be studied from them. Newport fs wearing blue. At one minute a light corn-flower blue seems to be the prevailing color; the next it is a pale rob- in's egg tone. That is today’s impression; yesterday morning the casino was coleur de rose. Yesterday afternoon the prom- erades and driveways were filled with clouds of white; the day before one might have thought an exhibition was in progress of shades of vellow. From the standpoint of a coaching parade, pink and white is the pipnacle of excellence; a lawn party is given over to green, Summer Hats. A rose party in Newport's biggest rose garden brought out hats hidden under large, loosely massed flowers; until that Gate I had supposed Newport milliners to have but one occupation—dipping gulls’ wings into a surf of chiffon or mousseline. Young girls wear white, blue, pink or yel- low wings—color is no object—of great size and lifting power; two, four or-six to a hat; matrons wear gulls’ wings studded with jet and even mcre unrecognizable. Thesé are mounted on lerge nats and seem straggling out of a whirlpool of foam. Other hats are of straw so delicate as to resemble a loose-meshed gauze worked with chenille. These take but little deco- ration; they are of fantastic shapes and are veiled lightly in the airiest of tissues. Newport women wear white duck or pique dressas of two sorts, mainly; one class severely plain, but of exquisite tailor finish; the other decorated with insertions | ov applique embroideries, in white or color, of such beauty and elaborateness as not to be easily attainable. The duck dress with colored bands of duck for trimming has | achieved too great success; {t has been abandoned to the brigade of the ready- mades. The Newport shirt waist does not blouse much in front, but is drawn down easily to the waist, not quite with the rigidness of the Pnglish fashion Except for special purposes, it is not de of the heavy ma- terials popular in many quarters. Newport is not markedly athletic, and has a weak- ness for traisparent dimities, chambra, and batistes, as against percales. Notable Costumes. At the rose party before mentioned a notable costume was of sheer batiste of the shad2 of blue succory flowers. The long, clinging skirt of this dress was trimmed with three narrow ruffles, edged in their turn with frills of black velvet ribbon; vel- vet ribbon bands were added to simulate a three-quarters length polonais2. The bod- ice was cut away in a square at the throat, with soft lace edging the opening. Baya- dere lines of veivet were carried round it and round the tops of{gh2 sleeves. A nar- row vest of wiitgtembgoidered muslin was let in from the svais&g pointing upwards. The hat worn was of guccory-blue straw, turning up in front, velfed in blue tulle antl trimmed with huge’ swgrd-shaped, Jet-span- gled, black quills: A second costums wag of white embroid- ered lawn over yellow™ silk. It presented even more than the usijal sudsy appearance at the bottom, having the underskirt ruffied with white inside the hem and with ycllow outside, while the lawn itself was finished with flounce, not too wide, and with lace edgings. The ice was decorated with broad lace flounces, ge ut a square yoke and caught on ths shoulders by yellow silk rosettes; a crushable yellow gash tied at one side of the front and fell an foteed ends to the ground. The wide Leghorn hat was covered with yellow nasturtiums; the parasol was white with yellgw and white tassels, Of Crepe de Chine, ‘ On the tennis field at the Casino a day or two ago appeared as spectator one of New- port's prettiest girls in a dainty dress of white crepe da chine. A narrow panel set in the front of the skirt was crossed by flounces of lace and crepe alternately, The simple bodice was set about with somewhat narrower ruffles and finished with rosatted of turquoise blue velvet at waist and shoul- der, Her hat was a flapping satin straw, with drooping ostrich plunies, white on one side, blue on the other; her parasol all blue. At a wedding rec2ption the elaborate cos- tume of the bride’s handsome mother was of silvery gray satin shading imperceptibiy into blue. ‘The trained skirt was decorated to the waist with extremely narrow blue silk fring? shading imperceptibly into gray. The lower part of the bodice was of the gray satin, embroidered with silk of many colors, while the upper part was of iris blue velvet, the same fabric being used to cover the tops of th2 slecves. Clover lunshes have to some extent taken the place of the usual daisy entertain- ments. Huge baskets of purple and rose- colored and whit2 clover are arranged for their fragrance as much as for their deco- rative effect, though this latter is not in- considerable. Not all rooms lend themselves to such a scheme of color, but a wide retired veranda, shaded by bamboo curtains, car- peted with dhurrie rugs and made cool with palms and rubber plants, is the perfect set- ting for a clover party. At a Clover Party. At one such given lately was worn a Nght summer silk in brokén plaids of white, clover-purple and green; it showed decora- tions of many rows of black velvet ribbon, and one knot of buttercup yellow on the left shoulder, The hat was a rough white straw of fantastic shape, trimmed with grass-green tulle and clover. An organdie flowered with clover heads appeared on the same occasion; it was made over a pale green silk underdress, al- most more white than green, and was trimmed with two deep flounces, each flounce headed by a narrow ruche of green tulle and edged with green velvet ribbon. The bodice was made with a fichu of green tulle. The hat was a white Leghorn with tulle and clovers, and the parasol white lace with a green lining. Some of the coolest looking costumes worn are of blue and white silk crepe in Japanese blossom patterns. The bold, fr- regular cherry designs are as well liked as any; cut in loose kimono style with white silk sa » an odd house dress or lounging robe is required; arranged for an afternoon dress with a bold touch of cerise or mandarin yellow somewhere in evidence, the costume js still enough out of the usual order to confer distinction. White for the Beach. Beach dresses at Newport deal in white largely. A tailor dress of white pique has 4|® turquoise blue ribbon belt and a pique blouse, spotted lightly with turquoise. It is worn with white gloves, white shoes and a white sailor hat, swathed in white tulle and needing much pinning down because of its many upstarting gulls’ wings. For such a dress a navy blue serge or flannel coat, short and square cornered, is a prop- er accompaniment. A pink pique is made with equal severity; the skirt is of Plain color, the waist spotted with white; a white helmet is worn. A white serge beach dress has its skirt decorated with many rows of cording; the waist, all white also, shows a small Eton jacket over a blouse of em- broidered dimity. The wide white hat is shaded by a white parasol that boasts three flounces; each flounce has a ribbon edge of “baby” widtn; one white, one red, one blue. Even in such minute quantities, the tri- color gives a brilllancy to the dress not otherwise attainable. A gray-gre crepe de chine is the ma- terial of a very beautiful tea gown. It ts made as an open robe embroidered about the hem, with purple iris, and showing an underdress of pale yellow silk muslin. ELLEN OSBOR: Russia's Priceless Jewels. From the Ladies’ Home Journal. A whole guide book devoted simply to the Hermitage could give no sort of jdea of the barbaric splendor of its belongings. Its riches are beyond belief. Even the presents givea by the Emir of Bokhara to the czar are splendid enough to dazzle one like @ realization of the Arabian Nights. But to see the most valuable of all, which are kept in the emperor's private vaults, is to be reduced to a state of bewilderment berdering on idiocy. It 1s astonishing enough, to one who has bought even one Russian belt set with turquoise enamel, to think of all the trappings of a horse—bit, bridle, saddle-girth, saddle-cloth and all— made of cloth of gold and set in solid tur- quoise enamel; with the sword hilt, scab- bard, belts and pistol handle and holster made of the same. Well, these are there by the roomful. Then you come to the private jewels, and you see all these same accoutrements made of precious stones— one of solid diamonds; another of dia- monds, emeralds, topazes and rubies, Pee SoeR Shirt Waists for Little Girls. Shirt waists are now part of every little girl’s wardrobe, and certainly they look much better on children than they do on older women,who have the shirt waist habit to an alarming extent. It is a mistake to have too elaborate shirt waists for chil- dren. The prettiest are really very sim- ple, and look best worn with a ribbon around the throat instead of a collar. ——“*+e+— An Appreciation, From Punch, Hodge (in yapt admiration)—“By goomt. woman "g strofpe oop our ould waggon Philippine Islands Language. Translation: The very and Navy use. (Advertisement No. 3, Language and Sign Series. “Cleveland's baking powder keeps in any climate. first vessel from San relief carried Cleveland's baking powder among its stores. Cleveland's baking powder is bought by the Government for Army The troops for ->—— | Cuba as ‘well as the Philippines | %, are supplied with it. | ‘Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. 1 rancisco for Admiral Dewey's (KEEER KERR RR ORR BAKING POWDER FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Vacation Outfits That Can Be Prepared at Small Expense. Gowns That Are shore or Mountains—Some Sensi- ble Suggestions, Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, July 14, 1898. Until the millennium arrives and we all have a certain amount of wealth, ease and comfort there must of necessity be a great majority of women who are either too busy or too light of purse to spend a long golien summer idling profitably a:mong the hills or by the sea. To the vast majority the va- cation of a month, cix weeks or even less brings the harrowing question of what shall be taken, what gowns It !s absolutely necessary to have and what can be done without. If only a list of what to take and what not to take could be compiled for various regions, something like the old lists of ar- ticles needed at boarding school, it would really be of value. One could be individual in spite of it, but it would cave one gcing to a hotel where the days were hot ang the nights cool with a load of thinnest evening and heaviest afternoon gowns. One wouid at least know at that place that one should have one’s organdies made up for afternoon wear and one’s white serges ani silks fur evening. If one is going to the seashore Jt ts well to bear in mind the fact that any hour of the day there may come up a wind from the sea which will take the s n out of all diaphanous gowns and make everything not of wool look most forlorn. Therefore a light-weight serge of some iast color wil! be most serviceable for morning wear. It sheuld be a coat and skirt affair, and one can wear with it shirt wa of eith flannel or cotton. Withstand the Fors. Serge or flannel for the traveling and morning gown is t recommended because these fabries are least Mkely to succum) to the effect of sea fogs and east winds Materials which are made up without shrinking or sponging, no matter what their quality, are apt to creep up in front and elongate behind in a most distressing manner aftsr a few days’ wear by “soundless sea.” It is wise to have the gown whi will wear most made with an unlined skirt, > at least a skirt with a separate lini In either event it caa be altered withou much trouble even if it does prove unsea- werthy. The greatest attention should be paid to the interlining if one objects to separate linings. Be this invisible part of the dress either cloth. cotton or hatrcloth, it should be shrunken. One should abso- lutely insist upon this, or disas in the shape of a foreshortened dress skirt wili surely follow. There are few modistes cr tailors who do rot use some sort of is:ter- lining, and none but the rare and careful ones seem to understand the 1bs0lute ne- cessity of properly preparing the inter.in- ing. By watching for five minutes the bot- tom of the skirts on the board walk at any resort by the sea the ungracerful effects of this carelessness can be plainly seen If one’s every-day skirt is unlined a silk petticoat is of great service, as it gives bedy and richness, if made with the num- ber of ruffles now in vogue. Economical women advocate buying brocade silks for petticoats, claiming that they wear three times as long as the taffeias, and by watching the sales one can get them at about the same figure. However, a light- weight mohair of bright pattera is within the reach of more purses, and 1s most sa isfactory for traveling and nard wear. In the early afternoon it is usually warm enough for thin gowns, and for this time of the day, according to the length of one’s purse, one may have organdies and mulls with silk or with muslin linings, or in the ase of mulls, with no “ere | at all if one chooses. If one wishes to invest in only one organdie and is goigg to a place where there will be dancing it is a good plan to have two waists made, one low necked and one high necked, and the same lining can be used for both. Sensible Suggestions. A simple mull, made up at home, and de- pending for trimming upon the ribboris which finish it at waist and throat, is a great addition to a wardrobe for any sum- mer outing. Such a gown is inexpensive, and, if properly made, most artistic. A flannel or a silk shirt waist fs of al- most inestimable value, both for traveling and for cool mornings and afternoons. The number of cotton shirt waists may be regu- lated by one’s purse, but from four to six will be found a good number, certainly not too many. hey can scarcely be worn more than two or three mornings without losing their freshness, whereupon they lose their only right to existe many places laundry facilities say the least. Gowns in which skirt and waist the same material are noticeably are of on the increase, although separate waists have not lost their popularity. It will be found most comfortable and appropriate to have an afternoon gown of white serge or cheviot. This may be made elaborately or simply, according to taste. A beautiful white serge which is to be worn at a town on the At- lantic coast not far from New York gives a@ modified effect of a sailor suit. This re- semblance comes from the slightly bloused front and thé V-shaped vest, framed by turn-back lapels and finished with a knot- ted tie. Of course, if one has had a light summer silk made up in the early spring it will be a suitable and appropriate afternoon gown. But it will be found that all materials save wool must be donned with a suftable regard for the weather, unless one wishes to be confined to the house during the prevalence of an east wind. The Care of Gowns, It is well to use one’s trunks and bureau drawers as receptacles for all gowns. It is never wise to take them out and hang them up for long, even in those few and rare places blessed with good closets. They will invariably fall into those distressingly limp folds known as “begger plaits,” and will need pressing to restore them, if, in- leed, they are not utterly ruined by the loss of their original stiffness, For ani evening wrap a cape of some in- expensive material in pale blue or some other light color will bé found invaluable, although one may indulge one's individual tastes and wear the dainty shawis and scarfs which gradually accumulate in al- it ev family. = SS ec or denim skirt for wear with shirt waists on t mornings will rove an invaluable addition to a wardrobe for either ind or shore. If one is going to the Country an extra thin dress or so will be found very useful, Necessary for Sea- | the | i | is not so much new gowns which | shirt studs and pins, etc. and the shirt waists, with skirts to match, described some time ago, will be most use- ful. In many country places it is prac- ticable to wear thin gowns the time, and, therefore, in going in’ a few days spent in furbishing up all s thin gowns and making them conform to the present small sieeve will be fo worth while. Ttis aw people who have not past seasons, and therefor: with our own all-too-fam r wardrobe, it are need- ed as old ones brought up to date, anu, bearing this in mind. most presentable wardrobe can be evolved at sm exp MABEL buYD. — SUMMER FANCIES IN JEWELRY, Small Trinkets Must Be Worn to Be. in Good Taste. From Harper's Bazar. With the summer season come all sorts of new fancies and ideas in ornaments, There ts really very little jewelry worn, as almost any kind except the simplest is out of place with cotton morning frocks or the everlasting and most convenient sb and with the pretty organdi nd sheer muslins over slips of bright colors for af- ternoon wear a small pin or brooch, with rt wails! all the frills and furbelows of lace, is all that is necessary. The watch and chain, however, is always in good taste, and one of the latest farhions is to have a bunch of charms on the chain. This, just now, is a long thin chain of gold or stly sometimes jet, caught here and ther: and with small beads or precious stones. The watch, of course, is at the end, and tucked safely in the waist ribbon or belt. Then about four or five inches farther up on the chain are bunched together as many small charms or trinkets as one ma e. One young woman who prides herself upon ig in the height of the fashion wears on her chain, hanging prettily over thé belt a little to the le? collection which envious, She has, in the first piace ring left her by an heirioom as well— autiful old seal and mily tiny ship with masts and sails, ropes and smoke stacks complete. Then she has, in coral, what the French and Italians call “les cornes;” it looks like a little branch with two t and 8 une by the supeystit in Italy is s posed to be a sort of mascot to keep away the “evil eye.” A heart in crystal cami next, with a four-leafed clover imbedded in it. Several old family kets in gold— some studded in precious stones, and one with monogram in diamond: A tiny gol stick, a tennis racket, a miniature cant ball in gold, and a curious completed the collection. in taste in this matter of wezring trinkets, they should be very, very small—never as large or larger than the watch. The smaller they are the more curivt uable they are. Another novel idea in summer jewelry is to have army or navy buttons, the gifts or relics of any relative or friend you may have had who fought in the vil war, gilded and made into link sleeve buttons, An old army of- ficer who was wounded at the first battle of Bull Run has just had beautiful set made of his buttons for his granddaughter. The large coat buttons are arranged for link sleeve buttons, the small vest buttons made into studs, four large buttons at the four corners of a plain gold buckle make a very pretty effect, and five of the smaller ones are soldered on to a plain gold bar pin. The effect of the whole thing is handsome, to say nothing of the senti- ment. ani val+ LATCH KEYS FOR WOMEN. They Have Ceased to Be Solely a Male Perquisite, From the Wilkesba: Leader. Latch keys have ceased to be a male pere quisite since the old-fashioned spinster has been replaced by the bachelor maid. The bachelor girl is nothing if not determined, and so she has adopted one of the last res maining articles that a man could call lig own. When the key came the pocket had to come with it. ef course, and now it is cut in the back,of the dress skirt very near thb belt line, and with a bit of flap over it to conceal the fact that a coat tail is missing, | And thus it is that the freed woman goc on her way, censcious that she may at least enter her own doors at all sorts of ho} coveted and fascinating without arousing everyene, from the butler to the aged grandparent who “disapproves.” ' When the pocket came the chain haa to tcllow in its wake, and, behold, a button proudly sewn to lor girl's “weskit,” hange the jewelers device, for she has not been emancipated long enoagh to leave off sterling silver and take to pl nickel plate. When the bachelor girl ness she was forced needs of a man, and some of his pa rights had to come to her, and so came the key ring in the train of the hain, and there was anot went into into some smithy to turn out pieces of are tistic workmanship. They are oftener heart-shaped wires of silver, solid and wide. So it seems that woman hever gets so “new” that she cax- no* carry hearts about Other designs are serpents, and over tite spring set tails go the door key, the letter box key, the escritoire key, an rest of the lot that used to “among the missing. ——_+e-+— Pretty Frocks for Childre: From Harper's Bazar. Flowered muslins are very pretty for children, and this year made up tn a great many pretty ways. The more fanciful the better seems to be the rule, and as they are only worn for afternoon or some particular Occasion, they can, of course, be made elaborately, j A little frock in yellow, with brirht flows ers, is made with a pleated skirt; the waist full, with a bertha edged with lace; ruffes of the came over the shoulders, also edged with lace, and a pretty guimpe of lace and‘ embroidery. There is a narrow ribbon beit to worn with this, and on either side = ie — ~ front rage kaots of ribbon, , yellow and white, with long ends which hang down over the sairt. A pretty frock in pale blue muslin kas strips of insertion laid in a zigzag pattern all around the’ skirt—two rows of it. The waist is high- necked, made with the same style of trim- ming as the skirt, and has a high collar edged with lace. Ths sleeves cniy cond to the elbow, and are finished with rufie edged with lace. The sash is of white ribs bon, quite narrow, and has ends beth in front and in the back. Dark flowered mus- lins are also used. ‘k blue with bright flowers is considered particularly smart, and is ee, effective, and thers are also the colors in dark muslin. It is funny, but the girl who cannot the dishes, it makes her back ach thinks nothing of ing her