Evening Star Newspaper, April 2, 1898, Page 19

HOUSEHOLD HINTS While every one knows that “hot cross buns” are the proper thing for breakfast on Good Friday morning, most people are dependent on the baker for their supply. A recipe recommended by one who has made the buns annually for fifty years is given in the New York Obseryer: “Into four pounds of the best flour,” says this culinary authority, “rub four ounces of good butter, the same of good lard, half a pound of sugar, a tablespoonful of salt, half a grated nutmeg, a little ground mace and a pinch of cinnamon. Add twelve ounces of currants and a little finely shred- ded lemon peel. Make a hole in the center of the flour, and break in four ounces of yeast (two compressed yeast cakes will answer). Pour on this a pint of lukewarm milk. Mix thoroughly, and when the sponge rises to the top of the hole knead the mixture to a light dough, using as much warm milk as is necessary. If the buns are wanted for breakfast this must be done over night, and the bowl placed in a warm spot until morning. Then the dough is kneaded down, turned out on a floured board, and divided into pieces weighing about three ounces each. These are molded round, and, after standing a few minutes, are rolled out oblong in shape, about six inches long by three wide. Lay them on a flat baking sheet or in a dripping pan, a little way apart, and let them rise in a warm place for thirty to forty-five minutes. Bake in a moderately hot oven, and as soon as they are done wash the top with a sirup made of sugar and water boiled together. When the buns are first rolled out a cross may be pricked on them with a fork, or one may be cut on the surface of the bun with a sharp knife. The buns are eaten warm and well buttsred.”” In the daily and systematic exercise that all children should take, twenty min- utes out-of-doors in the pure air is worth an hour of indoor practice. Running is a magnificent exercise, and the chil-lren should be encouraged to play games that call for it. The quiet house games that hold the children in one position. with ccntracted lungs are faulty and should not be allowed for any length of time. Girls, especially from twelve to fifteen, shculd be urged to take as much fresh air ard active exercise as they can possibly get without being overtaxed. The old days when to be a “tomboy” was the worst epithet that could be applied to a girl is happily passed, and the congensus of. opin- jon gleaned from educators, physicians and judicious mothers is now: “Girls, be ‘temboys’ as long as you can.’ : AN ELEGANT AFTERNOON COSTUME. GLA (Cn Deseo, Temes” A delicicus Easter omelet is made :n this wise: Have a scrupulously clean saucepan on the fire with a generous lump of sweet butter. Beat the yolks of three fresh eggs until light and creamy, add a tablespoon- ful of sugar, one of lemon juice, and lastly the whites of three eggs beaten stiff, just folded in. Put the mixture in the pan and cook slowly and steadily until done. It will not be stiff. but semi-liquid, like the Delmonico breakfast omelets. Have ready two tablespoonfuls of grated fresh pine- apple, and when the omelet is done spread the pineapple over it and fold for serving. Dust with powdered sugar. Coprricht, ms, by & WBalewte, HINTS ON FASHIONS but for a slight fullness at the shoulder. The cuffs, like the high flaring collar, are made of black satin appliqued on biue taf- feta, with a fine black and gold gimp, which also surrounds the blue revere znd the basque. Fashions come and go, accepted and worn with enthusiasm, and sink into oblivion, but the independent blouse and rodice has so irgratiated itself with the public that new ideas in form and trimming are con- stantly evolved. In Oriental Style. The latest, which we illustrate today, has a desided leaning toward oriental taste, since it is composed of four large silk, Turkish or bandana kerchiefs. The cen- ter square of these has a colored palmleat design on a black ground, the border con- sists of a yellow ‘design on a bright gold Shape and General Appearance of the New Skirts. Look out for the buffalo moth, now on the window sills. In a warm house they will work all the year around, but in any house where they have cnce found an abiding place they will come to light in March or April. As red is their favorite ecicr, the housekeeper, forewarned and fcrearmed, can lay out for their delestation a bundle of red flannel, retired from other active service. As soor as they have gath- APTERNOON GOWN FOR SPRING WEAR Design for a Blouse in the Oriental Style. ered about this tidbit they may be gathered Sa eee eet CAEUUCIOS) | sual naapetnionthoeiie rennin tamciee bine here and there, and the outside hem is | i," 1:5 commended as an excellent hoor of FLOWERS IN PROFUSION |a bright red. shelf wash where there is reason to ex- pect unwelcome visitors. Se The real German zweiback, which can be bovght at almost ary gocd grocery or bekeshop, is one of the most delicious and healthful foods for children. It is often used on this account in hospitals and san- itarlum-s. It is compcsed of slices of rusk, oc a kind of fine, dry bread, dried in a very slow oven to s delicate brown color. Vien- na bread slices are sometimes prepared in the same way. Do not buy a large quan- tity at a time, as it soon grows stale, and keep what you have wrapped in confec- tioners’ paper, Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. VIENNA, March 19, 1898. The new skirt is difficult to make and ng and therefore affords the dressmaker a fine opportunity to show what can be Gone in the way of hang, style and making. The best hanging skirts have the lining and the outside made separately, though attached together to the same belt: The siik and percaline lining is cut with five gores, making it three and cne-half yards in width, and has a stiff facing erght inches wide and three fluffy ruffles of silk on the inside. Many models show the lin- ing cut fifteen inches shorter than the ou} side material, and lengthened by an zc- ‘on-pleated ruffle ef the goods. This s the particularly clinging effect now demanded in ail new gowns. All the skirts must flare well on the low- but fit closely from th2 knees up. » Uny tucks above an inch Lem form fainty finish for such a skirt. Cloth and drap dete designs show an apron effect formed by three small pipings ur tucks on the fabric, low in front and rounded up in the back to within three inches of the waist line. Tucks are the most favored mode of trimming for spring and summer gowns, né are also successfully employed in ihe rt of the model which we submit today to the American public. chiefs are so draped that the red hem forms a yoke on the back as well as the front and is defined by the yellow border which forms a point on either side of the front as well as the back. The red hem is turned in on the center of the front and the fullness falls slightly over beth sides of the tight-fitting vest of white lace, elaborately traced with gold threads and spangles in a Turkish figure on a lining of bright rel atin. At the back the kerchiefs are ar- ranged to form corners like the front and the apparent yoke of red extends into a deep and slender point down the back. ‘The sleeve has the corner of the ‘kerchief at the upper arm, showing some of the red on ei:her side of the shoulder and finishing at the wrist with an appliqued band of yel- low border and a full pieating of red. Completing the Effect. The plain stiff standing collar also con- sists of the yellow border and is surmount- ed by a pleated ruching of red, which encir- cles the neck like the petals of a poppy. To complete the oriental effect, a sash of soft red silk, with ends of appliqued yellow kerchief borders and terminating in a long knotted red fringe, is fastened loosely around the waist and knots at one side of the fullness in front, dropping in long graceful loops below the knees. This blouse, though highly colored, is ex- ceedingly artistic, and has the advantage of being easily imitated by any woman whose good taste is aided by deft fingers. A black skirt of accordion-pleated silk looks well with the blouse. For theater wear, a small bonnet, made of red poppies, with a jet spray on one side, forms a graceful finish to this artictic blouse. Flowers are worn in great profusion on all spring and summer hats, and novel theat collarettes and neckwear are made up almost entirely out of flowers—violets, crush roses or poppies—of different and sometimes in possible shades matching the hat of bonnet, and trimmed with flounces of pleated chiffon. In preparing for an Easter luncheon or breakfast an egg may be ordered of the ccnfectioner to be made of any dimension desired for a center ornament. The con- fectioners will make them of clouded sugar or clear candy, as preferred, and decorate them as one may choose. The upper hai can be lifted off, and the center filled with smaller eggs, bon bons or dainty gifts. Laid on a bed of ferns and mignonette or narcissus the effect is pretty and distinctly appropriate. For waxing a light wood floor use one peund of melted wax to one pint of turpen- tine. Melt the wax over the register or in a warm bath until as soft as butter; then beat the turpentine into the soft wax, tak- ing care to be away from the fire when using th> turpentine. Apply with a soft woolen cloth; then polish with weighted brush. This polish 1s equally good for fur- niture, beating in one gill of alcohol. A housekesper who dotes on “collections,” and who has run the gamut of souvenir spoons, jugs, cups, beer mugs and candle- sticks, is now turning hr attention to plates, and pronounces it the most fascinat- ing of all. “One never can have too many plates," she declares, “and everywhere you Bo you are sure to find a variety of pretty and artistic on2s to choose from.”* For Afternoon Wear. Our design represents an elegant after- hoon gown for house, promenade or car- riege wear. The rather severe skirt of blue taffeta is made in the prevailing style, be- ing separate from the lining, to whica it is jo‘ved te the belt. The lining is made cf same material as the outside and is tiy stiffened by an interlining six ii idth at the hem. Five rar- row tucks end one wide tuck at regular irtervals form the decoration above the hem. The tight-fitting jacket is very novel in shape. It is made of black satin and ta. The black satin opens in the ng the blue taffeta underneuth. rge revers over A whistling sound from the burning gas indicates that unconsumed gas is escap- ing through the burner. Turn the key until the sound ceases. Burners should be frequently cleaned and renewed when they do not work well, and a loose key that does not indicate to a certainty whetker gas is turned on or off should not be tolerated for a day. In drawing rooms, handsome silk dam- ask curtains, made up with plain linings: to match the predominant color in the ask, are most popular, although one often sees severe contrasts between cur- tains and lining, where bold effects are desired. jose a shirt front of white satin, partly hidden by a cravat of white Brussels net, edged with real Brussels la The sleeves of black satin ts almost tight, of the Japanese paper napkins on hand for the children’s lunch baskets. These are so inexpensive that a fresh one each day adds to the dainti- ness of the lunch and saves in the laundry work. Keep a supply the handle. Black and white ones, with full, fluffy linings of chiffon, in pink, helio- trope and lemon yellow chiffon with bows to match the linings on the handle, are aiso very charming, and one of pink and white checked siik lined with pink chiffon and having a frill of yellow lace inside the edge is really exquisite. In handles, perhaps the newest are round gold balls set with turquoises. White or green horn rabbits, with stiff, outstanding gold ears, also form convenient handles, for you have the ears to hold on to. From the St. James Gazette. The parasols of t year are all fantasias on the stripe motif. In some the stripes are wide and each successive stripe is of a deeper shade of the same color. These, in radiant hues ef the new hyacinth blue, pop- Jar green, poppy red and rich orange, with titlant bows of satin ribbon on the han- leasing foretaste of the Smooth rugs should never be put near stairs on a waxed floor. A coarse Japan- ese rug made of fiber is much safer used near the stairs. a Fruit Juice Shoe Polish. sprin; From the Baltimore American. varied by othe A brow eagle with outspread wings skill- The lining for this blouse is quite tight fitting and boned, so that the back and sides are adjusted to the figure. The ker- ty. One has a wide k stripe with nar- | fully carved in wood is another device.} Fang? juice is one of the best dress- row yellow and Bb ones on either | Square knobs of rosepud patterned Dres-| ings for black shoes or boots, Take a Ride and a big, blue satin bow on the k: den china have an Arcadian grace all their | slice or quarter of an orange and rub it ah id another, of white silk own; whilst a classic head carved in tor- | on the shoe or boot; then, wide pellow stripes on either toise-shell seems quite too beautiful to con- | With a soft aan Asay plies oo anaes big yellow ceal in the hollow of one's hand. shoe es lke a looking glass. This is an English recipe. Another fruit dressing is for tan shoes, the inside of a banana skin. Rub the skin all over the shoe, thoroughly, wipe off carefully with a soft cloth briskly. Patent leather shoes should not be pol- ished with blacking.. These are the hard- require constant care. They may cleaned with a damp sponge and immedi- ately. dried with a soft cloth, with occa- sionally a little vaseline or sweet oll. They must never be denned in cold weather without heating, or they will crack as goon as exposed to cold air. . An Up-Country Wedding Notice. Frem the Perry County (Pa.) Freeman. We had a comfortabls wedding at the home of one of our oldest families last Thursday. George Alley married Katie, the daughter of Col. “Andy” Frew. The wedding was held early in the morning, as the happy coupla wished to take a wed- ding tour over the N. and 8. V. railroad to right, 1408, Life Publishing Company.) the brid. couple de- arly train for Newport, re- noon train the same re looked. and the “Your disesse is hereditary.” Patient—“What must I do, doctor?” “Attack the trouble at its source: Make your father take sulphur baths at once.” ‘out @ collar. < FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Bought by the Government. General Views of Spring Hats With Summer Uses, Plenty of Dainty and Practical Models —Sailors Have Taller a Less Brim. Cleveland's baking powder is purchased by the U.S, Government for the use of families of Army Officers. This isa guarantee of qual- ity, for Crowns Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. W YORK, April 1, 1898, ded by the first ornately trimmed, heavy looking hats which appear spring openings. Lovely -vo- but so far she has never gone to lergth of wearing a heavy, dull-looking affair, which might do for autumn, as a the substitute for a graceful, airy head cov. ing. Purchase your spring bonnet now if yeu wish it for Easter. The shapes we are to wear in straw have been settled for menths, but beware of the advice of a milliner who wishes you to load it with feathers, wired tulle or gauze, spangled erraments and other expensive but un- necessary furbelows. Above all, beware cf velvet, unless ycu can afford several other hats between now and June. ‘The real forecast of summer's note has only been struck at one or two places in town, and it is light, airy effects, plenty of flow- ers and the lightest and daintiest of liberty suk or tulle scarfs, with careless looking locps of ribbon. This light effect is well illu: a sailor of white chip, a most modest lit- tle saiior. Wound around the crown and simulating a careless, soft bow in front was a scarf of pale biue liberty silk. The same silk formed two little knots under the brim of the hat in the back. Two benches of forget-me-nots, inte: with green leaves, formed the oni: trimming. They stood up smartly on either side of the crown, one on the left and one on the right, the former a little higher than the latter, so there was no stiffness about it. One ‘could scarcely imagine a simpler or more artistic creation. Covered With Flowers. Very pretty and most suitable for spring are the flower hats. They are straw, to be sure, but so little of that material shows Baking Powder was officially analyzed and found to be a pure cream of tartar powder or it would not have been bought. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., = trated by | From the April Ladies’ Home Journal. Queen Julie never joined her husband, Jcseph Bonaparte, the fugitive King of Spain, in this country, but late in IS21 their daughter, the vivacious young Princess Charlotte, determined to console her father in bis exile. She arrived at Philadelphia in the ship Ruth and Mary, commanded by c Mickle. The ship's wharf was cov- i with a crowd anxious to see her. Only nineteen years old, of highly animated tem- perament end delighted at the ending of the forty days’ voyege, the young girl was in an ecstasy of pleasure. She waved her fur bonnet at the persons on the wharf with such careless delight that it fell from SPRING. NOVELTIES Articles of Woman’s Wear to Come With Easter. COSTUMES FOR STREET AND HOME Quiet Lenten Hues Give Place to Others More Brilliant. DAINTY HAtS AND WRAPS Lae (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary and News Service.) Special Correspondchice of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 1, 1898. On2 cf the joys of Easter is the relaxa- tlon of the high collar; when we pass our friends in the streets in future we may hope to know them. For the rest the dim, religious tones o&Lienten frocks give plac2 to blues, greens ‘arid Mcarlets that are of the world, the flesh and the (stage) devil. The newest golf costuma has a red coat, @ red waistcoat with brass buttons and a reversible skirt dark blue or green on one side and a brilliant plaid on the other, plaid stockings and Tam O'Shanter. The newest bicycle dress is in plaids. Dark red corded “with White, dark blue and green are the fistial variations. Last sum- mer’s fawng and tans have almost disap- peared. The newest tailor gown for a young girl ts of ox-blood rad cloth with steel belt and steel buttons. Vivid cardinal and coppery flame red brighten the town. The newest blue is “bluebell” color. ‘The newest grays have a pink tinge or are shot with th2 coloring of a rock pigeon; emerald green, bright violet or deep orange is used in contrast. ‘The newest spring wrap is the triple cape called a “‘three-decker;” short, made of pal2 gray cloth, lired with white moire and braided with a contrasting color just at the edge and around the turn-down collar. Gowns and Huis. New pique gowns come in especial dyes of strawberry color, peacock blue, ame- thyst and beautiful tones of old rose, as well as in tha navy blue, red and ecru of last season. They are made with the deep French flounce and are braided or trimmed with white bands. = New toques have an oriental look, with their wond2rful combinations of gay and vivid straws. They are small but wide and exist for the sake of carrying many flowers swathed in chiffon, New white ties to wear with the spring coat are two yards long and_are made of sprigged net edged with Tace. The coat itself is sacque-shaped, loose and straight behind, half-fitting in front; it reaches but a little way below the wai: I asked the g,"’ she answered: “nothing at Every skirt is tight about the hips; below, it may. be narrow or wide. Any variety, though designed only yesterday, may be*bought ready-made.” The moment's whim in jewelry Is gun metal, just as last autumn Klondike yellow was the color whim. Fashions manage al- ways to refiect the times. Gun metal is used for belts, bangles and throat latches; it is inlaid with pearls or diamonds. An Easter Trousseau. Here are half a dozen hints from the un- finished trousseay of an Easter bride. A high-necked dinner dress of pale yellow mousseline de soi3 is draped over old gold satin. It is cut on lines adapted for a slen- der figure. The bodice has a yoke covered with puffs of embroidered chiffon, The shirt is finished with thre> obiffon flounces, headed by grouped puffs of chiffon, all dip- ping in front. There is a rarrow bolt of folded yellow velvet. A reception dresg of a soft blue-gray silk ccmbines dignity ard daintiness in its sweeping lin2s and lace decorations. It is cut after a princess model, the skirt cross. ing right over left. A deep flounce of lace that seems a continuation of the bodice revers starts at the waist and falls to the ground, following argind the skirt and finally losing itseif in nt under the cross- ing. The bodice dpens’in a deep point over a vest of lisse fingertion. The sleev2 is pecullar; a small’ puff tf silk at the shoul- Ger sets into a deep of insertion from which emerges’ @ Yong plain sleeve. Tha neck is finished & chiffon puff, with- An evening dress of'the new spider web tulle Jooks as if'spun' from though the dres: orate appliques low bodice is edgéd mignonette and es in pale green gaulfe, welver with long“Fibpen slippers, gray es ‘and a gray feather fan, hanging ribbon toops, are her hands over the ship's rail and into the river. In her transport of enthusiasm she snatched Capt. Mickle’s hat from his head, gayly placed ft on her own, and saluted her admirers anew. Joseph was highly pleased with Charlotte, whom he had not seen since she was thir- teen, and trizd to give her as much com- pensation as he could for the pleasures of the continental Mfe she had left ind. He took her to Long Branch and Saratoga, but he soon discovered that her chief taste was for painting. At the old gallery of the Academy of the Fine Arts in Philadelphia were exhibited several studies and land- scepes from her brush. oo—____ The Matter of Height. From the Philadelphia Ledger. If you are tall and slender how well you look in those fifteen flounced skirts, each one edged with the narrowest of black velvet. They all dip a little toward the front, and when “made up” in white gcuze or white silk organdie they are Icoked upon as something smarter than if built of colors, because the craze for black that it scarcely counts. They are covered with flowers, roses, violets, what you will. One yellow straw short-backed sailor was a bower of yellow and white roses and green leaves. The roses completely cover- ed the crown and neariy all of the brim, yet there was not a great profusion either of flowers or leaves; but they were put on in that artistic confusion with which a master hand might arrange a few flowers, giving each room enough to show its in- dividual petals and green leaves, Speaking of short-backed sailors reminds me of the fact that they have not lost their popularity by any means. They are uni- versally becoming and seem to lend the selves to so many varieties of trimming hey are apparently indispensable. are not many new shapes. On every side one hears of the “Shepardess,” and it is certainly most charming with its abrupt dip in the back and its downward curve over the face In front. It is not becoming to every one, however, and in trying it on ene must consult one’s own judgment, for, as @ saleowoman said pathetically not long ago, “We are obliged to make women the knees in tront, risirg almost to the waist behind, and which fs outiiaed with velvet ribbon. The coat has small bip pockets and small revers. The waist belt comes through the seams at the side. There is a tea gown in this outfit hich strikes the keynote of fashion in that it has a tight back and tight sleeves. The material is a soft pink brocade cut with redingote fronts edged with ivory lace. The underdress has a pointed apron in front of kilted mousseline de sole. Lace ard mousseline adorn the bodice and fiew- ing mousseline draperies veil the tight sleeves. Seen in the Shops. Easter models exhibited in the shops this week include a cloth gown of pavement gray, the skirt of which Is literally folded about the figure, and is, as far as the eye can sce, guiltless of fastening. The front is worked in a gray chenille, The bodice fs tight-fitting, with a little chemisette of spotted net. A pretty waist model is of mignonette green silk crossed lattice fashion, with black and green velvet ribbons. Velvet | think the bats they try on are becomi and white is not yet on the wane. Tak- bows dot the left side. A pink silk waist | whether it is a fact rd not.” There ned ing it for granted that your choice is is laid in fine tucks across front and back | variations to this shape, so that oon may| white, with black for trimming, your and finished with lace bretelies over the | be extreme or moderate, as one pleases. od shoulders. - Taffeta silk waists in plain Lodice must be gathered into a black belt shades and elaborately tucked are im- Toques Are Napoleonic. and your neck be cut out in such a pretty V back and front; the two narrow flounces matching the skirt will trim it well with full ruching of tulle for heading, the whoie giving you such fine width across the shouiders and showing off the lovely lines 0: your neck and the graceful pose of your head. Your arms are rather too long and siender uncovered, but seen through the transparent material in mousquetaire shir- rings they are faultless. As you walk across the room yeur black gauze sash, with its long plisse ends in the back and its bunch of short loops, with a big dia- mond buckle in the middle, ts really quite } perfect couch. Your golden hair, raised up high on the top of your head, adds to your height and you excel in the way you have it waved, and the knot at the top, (cgether with just the right kind of short, Tecse ‘curls, arranged so becomingly on your brow. Of course, you wear your Rearls—nobody’s neck is dressed without inem—and your jeweled ornaments exceed- fagly choice, and you never overdo the matter. mensely popular. The tilt of the hat counts more than the hat itself at present. Every elaborate Piece of millinery is meant to be worn in @ particular way, and it is seldom that a woman gets anything like the intended effect without competent instruction. Be sure you know how, or else stick to the pretty, straight-brimmed shapes trimmed with ribbon and clusters of flowers. Russian caps are worn for the theater. They are very small and very brilliant. One of silver straw is covered with puffs of gauze and studded with pearls and rhinestones. = Dainty Headgenr. To vary the millinery, chiffons and tulle: Jace scarfs are draped about hat brims: some of them of great value. All millin- ery seeks a cloudy effect, following up misty trimmings with veils two yards in length and a crush of soft white under the chin. Ruffiled and flounced hats were inevit- able; they are made of soft straw frills and trimmed with ribbons. The new sailor hats have low crowns and narrow brims. They are smarter and sau- cler than last season's, and look, by con- trast with soft and crushable hats, pe- culiarly aggressive. Roman silks are used for trimming. New bicycle hats have high straw crowns and roiling brims. The shapes are pretty and becoming, but the trimmings of the shop models are unsuitable. Chiffon is never worse placed than on headgear to be worn a-wheel. Traveling hats for April come in pale green straws of medium size, trimmed with thick wreaths of foliage. A Toreador hat for general utility is of pink straw, trimmed with eight small gray tips and a swathing of gray chiffon. A turquoise blue straw capote has the brim covered with blue tulle edged with a blacic tulle frill. By way of preparation for the new hats the hair is worn flat on top or with a .ow pompadour and very much pulled out at the sides. ELLEN OSBORN. ———.>—__ First Woman Doctor. From the Pittsburg Dispatch. The first qualified lady doctor in Europe, as far as is known, was a young Athenian woman named Agnodice. In the year B. C. 300 she disguised herself as a man and be- gan to attend the medical schools at Ath- ens, which it was against the law for a woman to do. She afterward practiced among the women of Athens with extraor- dinary success. But her secret becoming known, She was prosecuted for studying and pracficing medicine illegally. The Athenian women, however, raised so furi- ous an agitation in consequence that the case was dropped and the law repealed. Coming to later times, we find several wo- men who obtained the degree of doctor of medicine and practiced in Europe before 1492, especially in the Moorish universities of Spain. Trotula of Ruggiero in the eleventh cen- tury had a European reputation, and prac- ticed as a doctor in Salerno. At the begin- ning of the fourteenth century Dorothea Bocchi not, only received the degree of doc- tor, but was professor of medicine in the famous University of Bologna. Since then two other ladies have been professors of medical subjects in the same university— Anna Mangolini (anatomy) and Dr. Maria delle Donne (obstetric medicine), the latter being appointed in 1799. In the year 1311 an edict was issued in France forbidding surgeons and female surgeons to practice until they had passed a satisfactory exam- ination before the proper authorities. These female surgeons are again referred to in an edict of 1352. ——_—_~+-e-—_____ ‘The Court of Peter the Great.- Ella Hepworth Dixon in the Philadelphia Ledger. With all his grossness and his violence, Peter had the foresight to see that with- out liberty for women there is no civill- The only other novelties are the small hats or toques—call them what you will. Most of them have a decidedly Napoleonic cast, turning up sharply away from the fece; but they are s0 very small and in mauy instances sit so far back from the face that this is not trying. A quiet and preity model of this sort had a fluted brim, and was made of rough dark blue straw. On the left were two loops of dark blue ritbon and a couple of pompons of the same shade nestled in the depressions of straw on the right. Nething could have bsen simpler, yet it was very smart. ‘Then there are the straw hats with the soft Reubens crowns, generally woven of straw also. Likew! straw hats trimmed with straw, which will have vogue if being seen everywhere gives it. The poke bon- net which Fas made a brave but fruitless struggle for popularity during the past two years now appears in a modified and softer outline. It bids fair to be more of a suc- cess this year ana can be made most be- coming with soft strings of mull or tulle. English walking nats of straw with rather wide brims are as unlike a Fedora or Alpine as it is possible to be and yet have the same characteristics. The former are to be worn more than last year and are very handsome, simply trimmed with several rows of narrow ribbon or velvet and three ostrich tips on the left side. Alpines and Sailors. Of course the ever useful Alpine in felt appears in new shapes. A soft felt with a rather wide brim is the latest, and it is trimmed with a Roman scarf or with spool- silk veiling. But one need not get a new Alpine. Take a white spool-silk veil, it your hat is a gray ore, and wind it about in place of the regulation band of ribbon. Arrange it in soft, regular folds, and fin- ish it in a knot on the left side. Or, if it is a black or blue Alpine, pick out a plaid or Roman-stripe scarf—one’s own neckt are eminently satisfactory, If wide exough and not soiled—and put it around the hat in the manner described for the veil. Thus will you have the latest hat to wear travel- ing or cycling, until sailors come in. It is rather early to say definitely what sailors will be. They have all been agreed upen, but the most influential designers cf these hats are reluctant to show their wares. So far, the sailors displayed are very satisfactory. They run neither to extreme brim or crown, although the bon- ret is a trifle narrower end the latter slightly higher than last year. MABEL BOYD. ——_.——— Danger in Veils. From the New York Tribune. A service has been done to women gen- erally by Dr. G. A. Wood of Chicago, in tests made by him with systematic cave to determine the danger, if any, in the wearing of vells. For this purpose he se- lected a dozen typical specimens of the ar- ticle and applied the ordinary tests of ability to read while wearing them, and these teets showed that every description of veil affects more or less the ability to see distinctly, both in the distance and near at hand, the most objectionable being the dotted sort. Other things being equal, vision is interfered with In direct propor- tion to the number of meshes per square inch, and the texture of the material also plays an important part in the matter. Thus, when the sides of the mesh are singie compact threads the eye is much less em- bai than when the double threads are used, the least objectionable veil, on the whole, being that which is without dots, sprays or other figures, but with large and | regular meshes made with single and com- pact threads. Dr. Wood pertinently re- marks that while eye troubles do not neces- sarily result from wearing veils—for the healthy eye is as able as any other part of the body to resist legitimate strain—weak eyes are injured by them. (Copyright, 1896, Life Publishing Company.) Taking Air Wit! it Going Oui Frem the Health Magazine. Elderly people and others who may be temporarily hous>-bound and prevented from enjoying a regular daily stroll out- dcors can devise a fair substitute as fo!- lows: Bundle up as if for the usual consti- tutional, select a large sunny room, pref- erably at the top of the house, opea wide the windows, shut off the heat and move around briskly, going to the window and inhaling the fresh air deeply through the nostrils. We have often called attention to the fact that house air, with its many im- purities, overheated condition and gen-ral Ifelessness, is one of the principal predis- pesing causes to colds and catarraal affec- tions. Where a patient or in fined to bed, if the shoulders ki covered and the head Hghtly protected, the windows may be opened and the room flushed with fresh air without any special risk, provided the current does not strike them too directly. The danger from want of proper ventilation is decidedly greater, Deep inhalations of air at the open win- dow, taken gently through the nose, inpart an enlivening and tonic influence to the whole nervous system, which can soon be demonstrated by a personal experiment. Fiom Life. It is rumored that this year’s spring hats for women find adornment in vegetables and flowers, and show no feathers at all. These are the hats that we are all pre- pared to encourege. They are what the Audubon societies want, what every one wants who likes birds and is opposed to killing them off. The best and casiest way to preserve the birds is to continue to put feathers out of fashion. Feathers are pretty, and since feshion began, and before, folks have used them to decorate headgear. But flowers are still prettier, and good artificial flow- ers, duly piled into a woman's spring hat, are more productive of emotions than any feather trimming that ever was hatched out of an egg. ———_-—+ee_____ ‘The Popular Summer Bodice. From the Ladies’ Home Journal. The separate bodice, to the delight of all women, not only maintains its sway, but has grown more elegant and, consequently, more feminine looking. While the skirt worn with it should not match it, care is taken not to make the contrast too great. § full dress. These a little stiff at first, for the noble- man’s idea of enjoying himself in the sev- enteenth century was to get - and he ence of ;