Evening Star Newspaper, March 26, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MARCH 26, 1898—24 PAGES, PLAIDS AND CHECKS Colors and Materials That Are Popular This Spring. MODEL OF A HANDSOME DEMI-TOILET Vogue for Skirts and Blouses is on the Increase. —— SUMMER TRAVELING Se FOR Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. FRANKFORT-ON-MAIN, March 19, 1898. st of beautiful gowns are lured out a and sunshine. ppropriate as a demi-toilet us well as for calling, re- evenin; ceiving jage wear, and will make one of the n gowns worn at Wiesbaden this summer by a lady of our olee. The oriental effect of the costume is particularly suitable to the dark beauty of the wearer. Black faille forms the rather plain skirt, which is cut quite long, and the only trim- ming of which consists of a comparatively narrow and graduating fiounce of black faille, loped and appliqued upon a strip of rich bright red velvet. The scallops are pd with row gold braid, and the is slightly wider at the back than in front. The bodice ts far mor the skirt. It is & shaped, and the foundation, like that of the . is of bright red satin, over which is draped black net richly embroidered in spangles, jet and gold Over this, in complicated than with black mc broidered in beautiful oriental and designs with silk spar ee beads gold threz These square tabs are so ar- r i that the embroidered net shows in long graceful points between them, and the | effect is most artistic and gratifying to the € A Stylish Sleeve. The tight sleeve is surmounted by a scant puff of red velvet ulloped lines like the flounce on the skirt. A very odd eps f{ black faille covered with em- bre ck seline like the tabs fs decorated with a scroll-shaped piece of red set on in s velvet and forms a unique shoulder orna- ment. ahe high standi collar of red satin, black tulle, fs_fin- ished with a turn-down piece of red velvet, HOUSEHOLD HINTS| siete age e With the advent of spring, and its ac- companying “tired feeling,” it behooves the k wife to take the initiative, see to it that her bill of fare 1s varied vo suit the requirements of the season, and then snap her fingers at the doc cially needed on the arly spring, and a plentiful suppl and onions will be found as efficacious in purify! blood as Mr: s’ treacle and sulphur. ng the | j under The sweet puddings and rich pies which were welcomed a month ago are found now to the tas des serts will not only ome, but much more Lemons ant should be abundance, and | wholesome rh made much of. ke leaves of the horseradish ir way through the ground give ! the t root pu ready to d appet Salt fish—the cod nd the salted meats—ham «f—will often be found much ature in ; safe inet, ex- thoughtful provider edeg for the building ly machines commit- Jed with or without . makes ceptable luuche: or breakfast dish. It is especially con- jent for an emergency stand-by, as the 1 beef may be ke} nd for any “th of time. Take a half pound of smoked beef, and cut in thin shavings. Pu tablespoonful of butter in a smati frying pan, and when hot, add the beef and cook two or three minutes, const ring until it frizales. Set back where it will hot while you make the following Put one heaping tablespoonful of butter, and one tablespoonful of fiour into another saucepan, stirring until it fs smooth and frothy, “at not browned. Add grad- vally a cupful ef warm milk and stir until creamy amd free from lumps. Add a tea- spoonful of grated horseradish drained from the vinegar, a speck of cayenne and a pinch of mustard, if desired; cook slowly five minutes, add the beef and serve at cence, with ed potatoe The beef will robably make it salt enough, but more can ¢ added, if desired. Water may be used im place of the milk, or cream, the horse- las tor s | thing highly or jat th | front, is lined throughout with white silk, | harmonious ¢raperies and furniture cover- and the plain cuffs of black faille are dec- crated with narrow bias bands of red vel- vet. A folded belt of red velvet closes on one side under a small frill. The cloth manufacturers have provided in richness of quality as well as quantity for the * ior ma which, like a Phoe- nix, rises in new glory every spring, as well ch gowns as afford a greater field for the customer's taste and imagination, and there is a large collection of new and beautiful patterns in cloth to select from. It would indeed be a fastidious person who would not be wholly satisfied with at least one of these. Some of the new wool materials are strikingly handsome, and fairly shine with the various mixtures of colored silks woven over plaid and other y grounds. There is also any quantity hipcords, hopsacking effects, cordu- y tweeds and wool bengalines. Some of the latter are shown in charming kled eff which are among the nov- n. skirts and blouses incr: s and different materiais to the market especially de- The ve have ¢ signed for the p The pre to fas! iling id ion the dre f dressmakers will sdice out of some- . to be partly or wholly concealed When worn cutdocrs by some of vest or jacket. be In General Favor. Cashmeres and tulle fabries have estab- lished themselves firmly in general favor. Grenadines have outlived the favor of several ms and come in beautified check and plaid de colors. Scotch effects are meeting with the ut- most success. Plaid gowns, plaid wraps, plaid wash goods, plaid ribbons, are the order of the day. One sees all sorts of “combinations of j green and blue velvet, and often decorated buckles’ or belts. A very tive combination in silk n black, white and red, and will prove t suitable for summer traveling shirt- waists. Black and white checks and shep- her plaids will also play an important role in the spring and summer wardrobe. One charming toilet for summer traveling isns in black and fancy is is made of w e arid black shepherds’ | plaid. The plain skirt (a little shorter than the incormmodicus length seen on the or- dinary spring models), is trimmed with rows of narrow lacing and ferm ere they Th pack black velvet ribbon inter- ng small loops at the ends are held by tiny black velve jacket, which is tight-fitting but has the required pouch in and is trimmed with velvet ribbon, as are the sleeves, the high, flaring collar and the belt. A red silk shirtwaist looks very bright with this j gown, particularly when the black and white fancy straw hat, to be worn with it, is trimmed with black and white ribbon and masses of red poppies. Me (ULiMann & SrRauss, Frankfurt A.M) rows of interlacing adish m. y be omitted entirely and two or three beaten eggs substituted, or the beef inay simply be frizzled and mixed with two or three poached eggs, and in all cases it will be pronounced “good.” The clouded condition of a highly pol- ished piano surface is said to come from climatic changes. A plano finisher is au- thority for the statement that a clean, seft chamois wrung out of clear water and wiped rapidly over the surface before 4 good polish is applied is the proper treat- ment to remedy the defect. A piano polish recommended by Miss Parloa consists of equal parts of paraffine oil and turpentine, pplied with a soft flannel, then polished with linen. There is so much individuality nowadays furnishing that many women are more «an delighted to have it executed directly their own supervision. So many ings can be picked up now at low price that, with a dexterous pair of hands to aid, cushions, cozy corners, divans, cabi- nets and the like can be readily and inex- pensively evolved. ‘To be sure of having a successful din- ner in every respect, see that the dining recm {is thoroughly aired for at Jeast a half hour before dinner is ab The dining room may weil be a little under her than over a moderate temperature, igh arrangements should be made to the alr fresh without allowing draughts. In cleaning matting use a weak salt Water solution, and always rub lengthwise with the grain. If there are grease spots, take boiling soap suds and the scrubbing brush, then rinse carefully with the salt water, and rub dry. It is reported that in some of the indus- trial schools classes in home upholstery are formed, where young women may learn the rudiments of this useful art, and then Bo out by the day to carry on the work. If a baby has a cold tn the chest, rub well with camphorated oll, cover with soft flannel cloths soaked in’ olive ofl, and protect the clothing with another layer of flannel. To save time and strength in the weekly ironing, remember that dish towels and common towels can be ironed quite well enough and in half the time if folded to- gether once. Silver fans for menu holders are the newest things brought out for this pur- pose in London. THE SERVING OF SUPPER. How Guests Are Entertained in Fash- fonable Society. From the Boston Herald. A There are several brand new ways of serving suppets at hom:2, after small Gances, card or theater parties, and these novelties are all the outcome of practical application of chafing dish science. When the hour for refreshm2nt artives and the dining room doors are thrown epen, in piace of the Goubtfully inviting cold collation on the long sideboard, or at one end of the’stately dining tabie, the steam and glow from a couple or trio of big chafing dish2g greet the hungry guests. Over the great silver heaters, with their Gouble power alcohol lamps, in the very smart houses the family chef, or a cater- er’s man, engaged for the occasion, pr3- fides. From top to toe he is arraycd like a lily, and he probably speaks very broken English. If a couple of dcuble chafing dishes, which supply in all four cooking basins, are used, two men can rapidly f2ed almost any number of persons, and a delightful informality reigns. All about the cooks are bowls heaped with raw materials for con- version into dainty messes. Every utensil used in preparing th> supper is silver, and every guest, selecting what plates, knives, spoons, etc., he or she desires from piles on a side table, goes personally for h2ipings from the chafing dishes. The discreet caterer, who has an eye for artistic effects as well as convenience, 2s- tablishes in the four corners of the room or across one end, a grotip of giant doubie towl chafing dishes. These glittering fur- naces are pr2sided over by chefs in white, who respectively prepare oysters, lobster, curried fowi and terrapin, by the steaming qvart or half gallon. Plates, forks, etc., are heaped on a center table, at the head of which urns of bouillon, coffee and chocolate keep hot over alcohol lamps, and the but- ler or capable hired head waiter maintains perfect order. A wis? arrangement is the dishing up of all hot semi-liquid preparations, as terra- pin and lobster a la Newberg, in small silver bowls, for by doing away with as much china as possible the food is kept very much hotter and breakage is avoided. The hot drinks, too, are offered in silver cups, and the most charming painted Rus- sian platters answer as plates for salad, croquettes, etc. On the brown or white wicker plates the bread is piled and topp2d by a silver wire fork, which holds a card: On the card, in legible gilt letters, is written, “ham, chicken salad or jelly sandwiches,” as the case may be, and as the maid passes by those who are hungry may read and mak3 their selections. As long as supper is in progress these baskets of bread are kept circulating through the rooms, and the ices are dished up in ths prettiest little paste- board boxes. Inside the boxes are lined with wax paper, and it is a fact to be re- membered that napkins seem rarely ~ or never us2d now at such suppers. After dinner or luncheon the very pretty habit has been revived of the hostess mak- ing coffee in the drawing room and having the liquid offer2d from the coffe tray. The coffee table is arranged in one corner, or HATS FOR SPRING Designed by Some‘ of the Leading Milliners of Paris. POPULAR SHAPES AND TRIMMINGS Dainty Confections Intended to Set Off Pretty Faces. STRAW AND FEATHERS ——_—_>—__. Written for The Evening Star. In our last week’s article we called par- ticular attention to the “La Bergere” hat, and present this week a very beautiful de- sign of that description by Mme. Pouyanne. ‘It will be particularly noticed that this het combines several important features of this spring’s wear, including fancy silk straw, plaid ribbon, polka dot wings and flowers in yellow and white. The particular yellow which will have the run of the season is the “coquc-de- roche,” but it should not be supposed that it is necessary to make this color too im- portant a feature of the hat, because it can be shaded with great effect gradually into a cream or white, and this combina- tion improves its delicacy. The spangled quills are another feature which will be very effective, especially for those whose age and faces are such as to be able to wear a hat of the piquant order, such as the “Alpine.” It will also be no- ; ticed by our illustrations that white tulle and embroidered tulle of fancy designs can be used with charming effect over other shades of velvet, for instance. White ma- line will be as popular as ever, and will be most effective rather with a strong con- trast of surrounding color. Another fash- ion this season, which will be seen in illus- tration No. 4, is the lace craquetin. This also needs a powerful contrast, and can be gotten out in very many designs and in excellent taste. We shall, as last week, give simply a condensed article and append below the de- scriptions of the various hats furnished by the most noted Parisian milliners, but, be- fore concluding, would call especial atten- tion to the hat, No. 6, by Mme. Carlier, carrying with it black plumes and seem- ingiy a modified form of the Victoria Flare of last season. This design is very dressy, but to acquire its proper effect must be trimmed With the finest feathers. No. 1—Designed by Mme. Josse, Pujol Successor. Ladi2s’ hat, made of striped cream net, ELEVATORS IN PRIVATE HOUSES. ‘Thousands Are in Use in New York— No Operator Needed. From the New York Evening Post.— Among the luxurious conveniences of the Gwelling houses of the rich are now eleva- tors. It is very seldom that a private resi- dence is more than four stories in height, and the living rooms of the family are,*as a rule, on the second or third floor. The stairways have wide low steps, easy of as- cent; but the exertion of climbing even a single flight of stairs is now accounted too irksome for these whose means enable them to escape it. Accordingly, in all houses planned today, which are to cost a3 much as $100,000—putting the matter broad- ly—there is an elevator. Architects in their designs for fine houses always make pro- vision for the elevator unless they have re- ceived express directions not to do so. Even in cases where the elevator is not to be put in immediately provision is made for it either by space left for a shaft or by the actual construction of the shaft. In hun- reds of old houses built before elevators were thought of for residénces elevators have within a year or two been installed. Nearly all elevators in private houses are eperated by electricity by means of a cur- rent derived from the electric mains of the subways in the street. The owner of the house is thus relieved of all trouble con- cerning the motive power; it is turned on end off like the gas or electric light. Noth- ing is required except that the working Parts of the elevator should be kept clean and lubricated, and this is usually attended to by the inspector of the installing com- pany, so that nothing could be less trouble- some. Elevators are thus bound to become in time indispensable adjuncts of the homes of the rich, and possibly of a class to be accounted something less than rich, be- cause the cost of the elevator installation is not tremendously high. One thing rendering it so popular is that no elevator operator is required; it is not necessary to add*another to the army of servants already employed. Any one can operate the elevator with perfect safety, for all that he or she has to do is “pres: the button and the company does the rest. If one wishes to ascend or descend to any floor, all he has to do is to press a certain button, and the elevator immediately starts for that floor and stops of its own accord when it gets there. In some cases the doors open and close automatically, but this involves a complicated apparatus which is found usually unsuited to a pri- vate residence. The possibility of an ele- vator door being left open is guarded against by a device which prevents the elevator from moving until the door has been closed, and when closed it automatic- ally locks until it is unlocked by the arrival of the elevator. Most of the elevators are, of course, quite small, accommodating about three persons. Some are large enough for six or even eight. They are oftea very handsomely and expensively decorated. The entire de- signing and construction of the elevator is done under the supervision of the elevator company, but the ornamentation is con- fided to the decorators and furniture mak- near the open fire, and on it is set a silver pot, which revolves over an alcohol lamp, and at once not only boils the b2verage, but strains it of grounds, all in the shortest space, with not even the amount of man- ipulacion tea making requires. ee Is the Engaged Girl Conceited? From the Philadelphia Times. This is the time when one is likely to get a surfeit of the engaged girl. Her engage- ment has probably been announced at New Year, and she is to be married just after Easter, and between the two dates, and especially that part of the “between” known as Lent, her relatives and friends become pretty famillar with her and her ways. As a rule, she is not exhilarating society. Her range of topics is too limited, her standards too personal, her ability to turn all subjects around to the one main subject too certain. From matters pertain- ing to the Klondike to India’s coral strand, and including the most approved method of clipping dog ears, she quotes but one au- thority, and seems to regard that one as omniscient and indisputable. Her self- conceit is by no means a minor attribute of the engaged girl, but, as one who has made a scientific study of the species says, “she can’t help it, you know, poor thing; she lives in such a perfect atmosphere of flattery, with incense burning before her in wholesale quantities and all the time, that it is no wonder her head is just a bit turned and that she is inspired to act as though the whole solar system revolved about her.” But whatever may be said against the engaged girl, one thing is al- ways in her favor, the most captious can- not tind fault with it, the most callous must be glad of it, and it eclipses her con- ceit as it eclipses her folly—she is so happy. + +_____ Red Morocco Hypocrisy. From Harper's Bazar. When you meet a girl carrying what lecks to be a pair of pretty little scarlet morocco volumes bound together, do not be too sure that they are prayer book and hymnal, even during these Lenten days. The newest cases for playing cards are of red morocco, just the shape and size and clasping of the combined prayer book and hymnal; and with nothing of the inside showing but the demure gilt edges of the two packs of cards, and all under cover of the eminently ecclesiastical scarlet, the illugion is perfect. If one had ever the de- sire to appear noe when in reality on pleasure bent, she has here a convenient shield ready to her hand, and an oppor- tunity that no telltale conventional case for playing cards could ever hope to bring about. But the chief charm of the new case is its ability to lay bare the gullibility of the average human being. Not one in ten of those who see the little red morocco hypocrisy for the first time but takes it to be the real thing. which in {ts turn {is striped with silk straw in mauve tone. Trimmed fully with gar- yaad of violets; bows of ribbon in the same color. No. 2—Designed by Camille Roger. Ladies’ hat in light green Yedda straw, trimmed fully around brim with flat roses and natural grasses to match. Back fin- ish2d with Donna Marla gauze in darker green, fastened by a large steel and crystal ornament. No. 3—Designed by Mme. Pouyanne. Ladies’ hat of “La Bergere” shape, made of fancy silk straw in Russian green, trim- med with plaid ribbon, polka-dot wings, French cuckoo flowers in y2llow and white, with a handsome rhinestone and old silver ornament. No. 4—Designed by Mme. Pouyanne. Ladies’ beret in Peruvian straw, trimmed on crown with six pairs of black wings. Edge of brim draped with black velvet and Jace craquelin. Finish over hair is black velvet and hawthorne blossoms. No. 5—Designed by Mme. Josse, Pujol Successor. Ladies’ round hat in embroidered tulle of fancy design. The onty trimming is a gar- land of roses shading, from coque-de-roche yellow to cream around the upturned brim. A bunch of same holds thé spangled quills in place. 2 No. G—Designed by Mme. Carlier. Copy of hat mad» for the Russian Prin- cess Orloff, in black, ‘rough straw. Finish on edge of brim is fine, small black tips. Trimmed with three ‘standing black ama- zone plumes; black net with long scarf of same for ties. ti. it No, 7—Designed by Julia Delmotte. Ladies’ hat in fine, whife chip, with a drooping brim at back. Trimmed with nas- turtiums of different shades and follags, white maline and folds of ,“‘mirror velvet.” Large bows of maling and velvet held in place by a buckle ove! tthe hair. Color and _ the ‘Imagination. From the New York Evening Post.. An interesting illustration of the effect of color is that shown by some experiments recently made. It was found that with the same temperaturs in both rooms, one of which was furnished in bluc and the other in red, nearly every person who enterec the two pronounced a differencs of from four to six degrees in heat in favor of the red room. There is something peculiarly stimulating about red. ‘The fact that it can be seen at a grater distance than almost any other color is well known, showing that it arouses the’ vision in proportion. Blue is correspondingly depressing, these two colors being more decided than almost any other of the list. x They Seatter. From the New Orleans Pieayune. Se many people talk at random that half of what is said never makes a hit, ers. The elevator is almost never built of iron or steel, but of some handsome hard wood. Much carving sometimes goes into it, and the upholstery and other decorations are often very sumptuous. Elevators are found very useful at large balls and recep- tions, and the time is rapidly approaching when it will be considered “bad form” if guests are asked to walk up a pair of stairs. A Fad for Engaged Girls, From the Detroit Fre2 Press. It used to be the correct thing when a ycung woman was engaged to be married to have a double picture frame in her bou- doir, or bed room, containing a photograph of her fiance and herself. Twenty-five years ago it was the fashion to have your photograph taken with the young man you were engaged to, and that was placed on your dressing table. Now there is a new fad. You must not, of course, be photo- graphed with your fiance—that is not con- sidered good form. Nor must you even have your picture in the same frame with his. The new fad fs to have a frame hold- ing fcur cabinet size photographs, and in this you must put four pictures of your fiance in four different positions—one full face, one sid2 face, one three quarters face and one profile. It is rather an interesting idea, as it is astonishing how changed a Person’s expression is with the face in different positions. One of these sets of photographs was seen the cther day on a young girl’s writing desk, and it was hard to believe that the profile and full face were of the same man. This is one of the latest fads for engaged men as well as girls. Serving the Hostess First. From the New York Evening Post. The custom of serving the hostess first at lunchzons or dinners seems a highly commendable one. There are so many lit- tle vagaries and novelties of service nowa- days that it is difficult to know them all. A lady who was a guest of honor at a re- cent dinner found herself »mbarrassed by having a platter handed her holding, ap- parently, a whole turkey. She glanced it over with quick apprehension and could see no evidenc2 of its having been carved. ‘Thinking that frankness was the best way out of the situation, she appealed to her hostess for instruction, which, of course, was courteously imparted. It was with both chagrin and relief that she found the turkey was in a condition to yi2id to the touch of a fork inserted in any part of the fowl of which she wished to partake. The list of table silver grows every season. Many of the utensils are passing fancies and are not heard of, prhaps, outside of circles who constantly seek such novelties. Sots, ocean ate are es her er is often a rallet and comfort, 15° For - Company Dinner or whenever something extra nice ; is wanted in the way of cake or dainty dessert, be sure to use Cleveland's Baking Powder 3 It will do its share to make your 3 . dinner a perfect success. $ — — — —— ~ = —— of it is that which crosses vpon the hip, easing the difficult front opening. A rea- | son for the popularity of this variety ese{ peciaily is that it lends itself readily to nbreidery. which with lace insertion is ime favorite among trimmings; to thet delight of a large class of nimbie-fingered | wcmen who lack butter to their bread when we take to the chsaper display of{ tinsel or sequin H There are really beautiful skirts that cam! ciaim to be fashionable. These give the! and the rhythm of long draperies, | adapting themselves to the figure without! ugly Ss across the hips. The! st of them have the slightest possible! “movement the French dressmakers’ call it; a quaint lifting of the skirt at one! only, such as is seen in some early; ‘rman ¢l ine costumes, giving a hint the drop skirt beneath. Overdone, this! “movement awkward. Caught’ justi right, it 1s peculiarly graceful, especially | if the back breadth train slightly. Modified Empire. F} A modified “empire” tea gown has a skirt! o? this sort. The material ts a dull pink! = silk of the new soft weaves required at! (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) present. It is lifted on the left over a pet-| IS pccisl Wigreape tones ot Ske kibechag Stee! coat effect of opalescent white silk. The | NEW YORK, March 25, 108, | ©nly trimming ts a band of exquisite hand-| SY PEOPLE| Worked embroidery in shades of green and NYE MIDE 13 | ok that Solow the how: ame empire boat would like an answer to the question: Have conditions changed ice is of dull pink velvet cut out at thet hroat in a V-shape over a folde i of white mousseline. Surplice sleeves ean he last | ™ousseline, starting under small puffs of; ae ee tke | Yelvet, fall to the ground. ‘There is a nar=! rty years to make | row belt of embroider A gown of this} the hoopskirt forever impossible? Othe things may me more pressing, Return of the Crinoline is Not an Impossibility, SWEEPING SKIRTS ARE NARROWER Stylish Models, Wherein Some Bizarre Effects Are Seen. FAVORITE COMBINATIONS idual enough never to be out! s that T have seen this! current fashions under} ts. It is high-necked, as is for so many « asions. Made’ skirt tripping you up | of apple green shot silk, the dainty bodice) by its length in front | pens to the waist over an underbodice off and wrapping itself ite chiffon. The neck is finished with] r chiffon ruche in snaky folds about a rag siden your heels; but some of the shrewdest 4 sjgners are already counting on a reaction. | Four years ago same designers, Whose business it is to watch and control | the movement of fashions, made a deter- ed effort to introduce hooped petticoats. While the project was in embryo half a smail, ffon undersleeves. The skirt is de » flounce, which is heades and banded with lace ves are bove tight is a ribbon belt. rated with a dee with a chiffon ru insertion. Likely to dezen women with newspaper commissions : go 8 - a re “ — . St uar- | elpeared: In therRirests of New Sorc indo”) a 2a varterah pasebios ar at hoops, to see how they would work ana |‘? Areca hoMineat “Mice 2 light colcred foulard, figured in| how people would take them. One of these | i H > 5 |green and hyacinth blue. This is trimmed | women told me that st ed her dress | ® fie Dotice = iple ruffles of stri and wouldn't mind cont gio mer Be eo ae ee eee Bat dee ae mai lace, starting from the shoulders : pnit- | |, to a point at th The ted to stiff inter n wired the | 5. : polonaise eight- hems of their dr movement | ed rosettes of lace, went no farther. It 1 to be proved } tik s is of string that there were limits to complaisance; | © = P Greg len that hoops were impraciteable. The de- | Secchi: see iano signers think otherwise, else th | new dress goods are to not So soon propose to try it ag: Th | notably, the “windew pane” idea is to carry the narrow skirt to ex- | patterns, as the clerks call the huge plaids, tremes and then when women have reached | A faverite combination in all materials @ promising stage of disgust with the “puil- | is putty color and blu back” and with the froth of soiled chiffons | Bizarre effects of all Sorts are encourag- | about their heels, to g the pendulum. | ¢d. A notable example is a di of black! The notion isn’t a by but if it suc- | mc ne de soie, the ekirt of which is ceeds the earth will need to have porticoes | immed with two bands of ivory lace built round it—like Saturn’s rings; without | insertion, one rurning down the middle Pha’ much jextra Onn Gaabh eae were | Of th> front and the other encircling the, worn by Mrs. Grant and Mrs. Lincoin, for | hips. From some approaches a good view | at Lincoln's second inaugural | Of a Maltese cre thus afforded. ¥ > death to rapid transit and various A Bizarre Effect. other thing: : r ; : s “ Another illustration is a dress of light The Long Skirt Bustle. mode-colored cloth which has a plain One feeler in behalf of the crinoline sleeve on the left side, the right sleeve been put out this spring—the long skirt| having two sleeve caps made conspicuous bustle, which is not inconsistent with nar-| by licavy black emb: This dress is rew draperies; it is even required, when all | trimmed with zigzags of #lack from shoul- the fulincss of a skirt is massed at the | der to ground, on the right side only. back, to bring order out of confusion and| The hat of sof: straw, overloaded with thanks Wallan posetlA, ribbons, flowers and tulle, has been ac- Another fecler, to which most people will | cepted.’ the more willingly that tt tilts think it fanciful to attach any signifi cver the eyes. The shady brim is a French is a certain effort to revive long € jon that prevents the strained look It works in this way: Many women own y pecple get in a glaring sun when, fine old pendant earrings that belong with | the hat corn of th it was ¥aluable sets of coral or other jewelry. | !uilt for. Some of the new hats are ex- These things are never remodeled beca ed to be worn over one €ye; these are they are heirlooms; few of them could be to the woman who doesn’t know adapted to modern patterns. Their poss ht angle sors think the as come to bring blue and brown strats are them out (when ‘and Aountes (are A novelty Is the piece straw getting an afring. Thus one more item is | Ut of which (he milliner makes a hat to added to a list of things that somehow go | Suit the face of her customer. The pret-, together and go with crincline. There is, | tiest millinery ribbons are in pal how2ver, an offsetting force in the fact | *ttiped with white cords. One pic that, gold hoop earrings and in yeas mae tyra ad the to just a few folks hates whose personality is uncommon or pictur- esque, the average woman looks particu- larly absurd when decorated with them. But thes? are long shots of the fashion For the immediate future the sweeping skirt is becoming narrower and more sweeping, and its shape is accentu- ated and dwelt upon by the long lines of trimming which decorate it from waist to hem er waist to knee. Grace and Dignity. The princess dress, which a year ago Was pronounced the most trying possible for any but a woman of perfect figure, is now declared to l2nd grace and dig- nity to thin and thick alike. I believe it does—measurably. One of the best forms ELL Pay Roll of a Fifth Avenue Mansions ww Ys Letter to the Pittsburg Disxpa’ ‘The annual pay roll of one private estab- hment on Sth avenue foots up § but wages are not the only expense attached to the servants in a great house. They must be maintained in a befitting manner, and at a low estimate this will cost $10,000 a year mere for board : men servan New Yorkers are lish, while the maid nts ar? generally Irish, Swedish or an. The millionaire would certainly be missed by the masses.