Evening Star Newspaper, February 5, 1898, Page 15

THE ART OF DRESS Lies in Careful Selection and Judi- cious Combination. eee Sats 80 SAYS THE GREAT MASTER FELIX Pictures and Describes a Prome- nade Gown for Spring. BLUE THE POPULAR COLOR Bpecial Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, January 28, 1808. ‘The strang2r who visits our gay city im- mediately remarks the elegance and style of the Parisienne’s costume. Be she young or eld, rich or poor, her gown is always sure to be a criterion of good tast2 and chic, and the uninitiated observer will falsely accuse her of extravagance. Her great art of dress consists in careful selection and judicious combinations. She gladly disp>nses with a varied and mani fold wardrobe, and confifes herself to a few choice and absolutely comme-{l-faut havi desire for change and to the prov ‘ale. he choice for novelty will not ov2rrule n: “Is it becoming gown of perfect fit and in a accordance with her own individual gowns, will be very fastidious in the | all acessories, as hat, gloves, doots and underwear, and she will not spare her costume, and hang it away until | it becomes “‘old-fashioned;” but she will wear it constantly, and fi relieved at the end of the season that her wardrobe is not eked with useless, half-worn gowns. 1 tea gown for informal recep- tk a ball gown, with YT wear, and finally costum2 for nt for a wo- are not confined e > dut ly to her household. Freedom of Taste. The present fashion adapts itself to in- Gividual tast>, the form and lines of the and bodice are extremely Bs and depend for effect upon the rich and manifold trimmings, from the abun- = of which it is easy to choose, and a wide scop> to the faiseur of | s in particu The street | to a certain ng promen n rap d’ete. th2 exception of three braiding around the hips, and , With a de out with satin of a new shade of green, named ‘vert d’amaranth>.” The hodice of brown drap d’ete is a re- minder of the zouave jacket and the Rus- sian blouse. It is extremely legere and chic. It ts doubl2-breasted, closing on the left side with two large buttons of chased metal. Large revers of heavy ecru lace over cream-colored satin open over a vest, and s.anding collar of pleated green satin. An incision in the front of the blouse also discloses the continuation of the green satin vest, forming the favorite pouch. The back Is plain, fitting almost closely to the figure, and has two rows of the same ecru braiding running horizontally and forming angles in front. The New Sleeve. The lower arm of the sleeve fs tight, and decorated with a small cuff of lace over cream-colored satin. Tne upper arm is full, and capped with a ruffl2 of brown drap d’ete lined with satin. A small ruche of cream-colored lace finishes the collar, and a belt of white leather encircles the waist and closes with a buckle of chas2d metal like the buttons. The hat which accompanies this costume is of dark green straw. The form is novel and most becoming, somewhat resembling a wide-brimmed low-crowned sailor hat, with th> brim raised at the back, showing a profuse garniture of green satin (vert d@’emaraathe) ribbon bows. The crown is ercircled by a_bouffant arrangement of green satin and mousseline de sole of the same shad2, and two green wings made of ceque feathers stand high at the left side toward the back. The demand for thin silk fabrics is not ccnfined to millinery alone, but the indica- ucrs for spring fashions show that they will enter mor? than ever into the compo- sition of elegant spring and summer tol- lets, mantles and pelerines, Materials ef Spring. The newest makes of mousseline de sole are conspicuous for th2ir peculiarly glossy texture, same having almost the sheen of satin. Fortunately, they are made stronger than formerly, so that they retain their beauty longer. The printed varieties are very beautiful, and the Pompadour and Indian designs wili be much employed. Gauzes that are striped lengthwise are especially in demand for making scarf sashes for evening dresses, a fashion which has met with particular success in Amer- ica. ecordeon and knife pleatings are as much in vogue as ever, and this fashion reaches its climax in the use of velvat thus sprinkled. The effect is novel and striking, particularly as tne heat presses down the nap of the velvet in many places, giving a cular luster to the textile. It is used arnitures and millinery solel. Blue takes a conspicuous part in the col- hemes for the evening season, and is accepted in every shade, from the exqui it2 light sky blue, called “ciel de Nic the rich shades of “gens d’armes” and “electric,” and happy the woman whose complexion is as “milk and roses,” whose ey are like the fair Italian sky and whose ringlets refl2ct the sunshine, as she alone is fashion’s favorite this year. (E. FELIX, Paris.) a pro- y struck by which of manner. the girl has le atural dainty diflide > much of ot youth; self, io0 little of should be the r. In re- 5 to her to- » ph he should at She has a ake hers¢ d in societ suits pe rts herself on all eS older ecepts every privilege but offers ‘nothing in one of the which we must give € take: but, for the moment, the y of the modern girl seems to be to Il that she can get and give nothing. This, at least, ts one's first impression of her after one has been accustomed to the race, sweetness, elegance and perf2ct ing of girls of all classes In France, ttle laundress who brings home ih washing, and is concerned about a morse of lace torn from a pocket handkerchief; the waitress at a country inn who takes infinite pains to think of things with which to tempt the precarious appetite of ma- dame; the overworked bonne who yet finds ,time for the flowers which she kuows one e sempstress hurrying home, who oes out of her own way to show the shop girl behind her counter, who is more anxious to oblige a customer than to palm off her wares—any and every girl eak to responds with smiling —not to yeur rank, but to your individuality; with perfect self-possession, but utter absence of self-conscicusness; with an evident desire io please, which lends to her manner the ease, the sim- plicity and the distinction whicn in Eng- jand is only associated ia our minds with the manners of people of the highest birth. soo —__—_ _ Perils of Expert Knowledge. From the Atchison Glote. A boarding house keeper always dislikes a country woman for a boarder; the coun- try woman looks with such suspicion at the butter that it excites distrust among the other boarde: Brown (who has been dining at the club with Jones)—“Just come in a minute, old fellow, and have a nightcap. Jones—‘‘I'm efraid it's getting a little late, Let's see how’ Ch enemy.” Brown—“Oh! that’s all right. She's in rere Cary mavens THE EVENING STAR, HOUSEHOLD HINTS In packing the children’s lunch baskets from day to day try to vary the contents so that every lunch may have the ele- ment of surprise, which is always an ap- Petizer. Although the sandwich must al- ‘Ways appear as the piece de resistance, it may take on a hundred different forms. Finger rolls stuffed, the inside crumb re- moved and its place taken with creamed chicken or lamb, are always acceptable. White bread or graham, cut thin, evenly buttered with butter, creamed or soft eonugh to spread and put together with a thick white sauce, in which egg has been chopped fine, is both appetizing dnd hear- ty. Some soft scrambled egg left over from breakfast is not to be despised in a sandwich, or an egg filling combined with parsley, chopped pickle or lettuce. A bot- tle of cooked salad dressing or mayonnaise should always be kept on hand, for any kind of salad makes a delicious sandwich. Chicken mixed with a little mayonnaise and cream, and spread between crackers and bread, will be found delightful. Allkinds of. fish can be made into a mince or paste; all meats make good sandwiches when minced and well seasoned, while a thin slice of corned beef or ham, spread with just a suspicion of mustard or horse radish, can- not be improved upon. Mutton or lamb chopped fine and added to a white sauce with capers or with a little mint vinegar or sauce is not to be despised. For the child with the tradftional sweet tooth the filling of the sandwich may be of jelly, marmalade, stewed fruit, thickened with a little cornstarch or even of frosting made as for cake, and mixed with candied fruit, nuts or raisins. Dates freed from stones, pounded to a paste, and laid between thin slices of unbuttered bread, are wholesome and nutritious, and nuts chopped or pound- ed and slightly salted, or moistened with sweet cream, make a nice filling. Snails are again in market, and the hearts of our French and German citizens, together with those of our own gourmets, are exceeding glad. While the taste for snails is by no means a new one—the an- cient Romans holding them in high esteem, a fondness never lost sight of in southern Europe—they are not as yet widely ac- cepted here, save among those whose tastes were formed abroad. There are several qualities of snails, but the most of those received here are the large white ones. When procured from the delicatessen store the snails have been scalded, then cooked in broth highly seasoned, and at last, judiciously mingled with " fine-cut parsley and a delicate sauce, returned to their own shells for an appropriate stage setting.’ The cooking of snails in private families involves an amount of care which such establishments cannot usually af- ford, but a compromise has been effected by chafing-dish devotees, who buy them from a reliable delicatessen store already prepared, and then improve still further upon them by turning them with their dressing from the shells into the chafing dish, adding to every dozen a scant tea- spoonful of onion juice, two teaspoonfuls of olive ofl, a teaspoonful of finely mixed parsley, a tablespoonful of bread crumbs and two glasses of Madeira. Cook five minutes, add a little cayenne or paprika with the juice of a lemon, and serve as hot as Bobo’s roast pig of delightful memory. As this is the month when the good housekeeper is wont to replenish her store of bedding, a few points may well be borne in mind. In the matter of covers, from a sanitary and economic point of view, woclen blankets are to be preferred to all others. Cotton-batting comforta- bles should never be used, except when covers must be had, and the purse runs at ebb tide. A cover made of wool wad- ding and cheese cloth is sanitary, warm and lignt. Allow five breadths of cheese- cloth each a yard wide for the cover. Cut one breadth in two to make the division better. Stretch one side on frames and extend it out to full size, fastening the frames securely at the corners. Spread the wool waddirng—or, if need be, the pat- ent cotton—evenly over one side in the frame. lay the other over it, and tack to- gether, tufting with silk floss, or German- town wool, as circumstances permit. The tufts should come in rows about twelve inches apart each way. Buttonhole the edges together with the wool or bind with ribl A hearty and delicious soup is thie given by Miss Parloa. It is too hearty, in fact, to precede a dinner of many courses, but is just the thing on a cold winter's dey, when the subsequent menu is frugal. The materials are one pint of white tur- nips cut in cubes, one-half pint of car- rots in cubes, one pint of potatoes in cubes, one-half pint of leeks (the white part), one large onion, one clove of gar- lic, one tablespoonful of salt, three table- spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, one-third teasponful of pepper and two quarts of water. Cut the onions fine and cook them slowly with the butter for ralf an hour; add the boiling water and carrots‘and cook a half hour longer. At the end of this time add the turnips, po- tatoes, seasoning, and cook an hour. If you have parsley add a teaspoonful ten minutes before serving. The soup is im- proved if some bones or trimmings of meat be added. In buying a roast of beef for a small family do not try to buy too large a one, as the family will tire of it before it is eaten. A one-rib roast of the second or third cut will usually be quite sufficient. Have the ribs removed, skewer or tie in @ round shape, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour; brown quickly on each side on the stove or in a hot oven, and finish the process in a cool oven. Forty minutes will suffice for the whole operation. If browned potatoes are to accompany the roast, cut in halves, cook in boiling, salted water until nearly done, then lay in the dripping pan with the roast and finish there, basting fre- quently with the drippings. An excellent white cake which keeps well is the “Catskill.” Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two of sugar. Sift into four cups of flour one small teaspoonful of soda and two of cream tartar, add one cupful of sweet milk and the creamed butter and sugar, and beat all together until smooth and light. Flavor with one teaspoonful vanilla, or a half teaspoonful almond. Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth and fold into the cake mixture. Do not stir at the end, merely lift the batter with the spoon, folding the whites in without break- ing the meshes which have the air en- tangled. Bake in a moderate oven. A prominent educator, talking to moth- ers, says that with all children there are nascent periods—that is, there are certain times when a child can learn to do things easier-and better than at others. The growth of the brain is not generally under- stood. There is, however, an ebb and flow of interest. The children apply themselves assiduously for a time, then comes arrest, and educators are now digputing whether to urge the child along or after the ebb wait for the certain return of interest in their work. Although courtplaster is useful in pro- tecting small scratches or abrasions of the skin from harm, it should not be used over any considerable cut or wound in process of healing. These will heal much faster if simply covered with a bit of soft linen held in place at the ends with strips of sur- geon’s plaster. A teacher of laundry work tells her class that “if in ironing a shirt bosom you find a little dirt, don’t stop to wipe it off until the whole shirt is finished. Then it will come off easily. The damp cloth, not wet, = your best friend when doing fine fron- ing.” i When silver is badly tarnished rub with @ paste made of silicon and alcohol. So cleansing is this that it is used in hos- pitals for the cleaning of surgical instru- ments. ELEN Dotted Vetis. From a Boston Paper. Paradoxes are in fashion—a woman pays $7 for a dotted veil and $70 to her oculist to correct astigmatism. An oculist once said that every dot in a woman's veil was worth $5 to the gentlemen of his profes- sion. The eye is being constantly strained to avotd these obstacles in its way, and, of course, it is weakened and tortured. Think of a woman paying $1.50 for something that will, in time, destroy her eyesight just as sure as fate. I leave it to you if she's not @ paragon of a ninny? But women do these things in spite of everyt! t when the overworked eyes begin to pain, and then they’re glad enough to do most anything for quick relief, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 1898-24 PAGES. WORN AT THE OPERA Where New York Women Are Gowned at Their Best. WHEN THE DANCING SET IS OUT Wonderful Display of Stylish Clothes and Fine Jewels. — WAYS OF DRESSING HAIR _——————— (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, February 3, 1898. T= OPERA SEA- son is the height ot the dress season, and, especially when there is a ball on the night of a_ perform- ance, the Mgtropoli- tari Opera House is a Mecca for those who like pretty clothes. I have writ- ten once or twice be- fore about the dis- appearance of the theater hat; that 1. is gone or is present only to the imagi- nation of the funny men cannot be de- nied by anybody who looks over the opera stalls. The disappearance of hats from the orchestra chairs and the blossoming of lighter and more delicate colors, which has followed as a natural consequence, gives the whole house a gayer and more festive look; the floor is toned in harmony with the boxes. The box crowd is neither So large nor so uniformly brilliant as it has been some winters; but it is notable, and when the dancing set’ is out in full Tegalia for the light fantastic afterward it is a spectacle for the most critical. At a recent performance of “Aida” I took especial notice of the hairdressing. A woman who had been out of New York for three months would be struck at once with a difference. Early in the winter a group of people tried to introduce the high loop or bow of hair on the top of the head which is worn by an! assortment of folks in London. The idea did not get a warm welcome; now everyhody is dressing the hair as broad as possible. One young wo- man had gone so far as to adopt what I have to call a clover-leaf cofffure, for want of any better name. Ber hair was dressed high, but in three sections, with a diamond butterfly holding the loose soft curls that were turned up in front, a few escaping about the forehead. Other women were trying the effect of a ribbon, an aigrette or a jeweled ornament on the side of the head above one ear. The result was freak- ish in most instances; to one or two it gave a not unbecoming touch of piquancy. The Dog Collar Fad. The dog collar fad doesn’t seem to de- cline. There was nothing more noticeable about the audience I looked about at than the universality of the close throat clasp of jewels. Three rows of pearls, the low- est having pendants, was a favorite orna- ment. Necklaces of diamonds and em- eralds outshone these. A collar of sap- phires fascinated me with the size and bri Mancy of its deep blue stones. An enor- mous butterfly in jewels covered the front of one bodice. In other cases a corsage Would be starred with single, shining gems. The familiar stomachers and tiaras of well- known society women were not lacking. In a box near me I noted a beautiful costume in white and amber. The silk was striped in the two colors,-the amber glow- ing with deep gold or paling, as the light danced upon it in the glittering horseshoe. The low-cut bodice was sleeveless; droop- ing frills of cream-white cilk net ‘covered the top of the shoulders. More net was draped over the bodice front, coming to a point at the waist; a narrow frill ran about the decolletage and down one side. A band of pearl trimming started on thc teft shoulder, was drawn down to the waist and then around the bottom of the nodice to the middle of the hack. Below the right shoulder was a bow of cerise velvet, with @ loosely twisted cord following the frill to the waist. A sash of silk net’ started at the right side of the waist, was carried round to the back to meet the pearl band and fell under full bows of net to the ground. It was trimmed across the bottom with seven narrow frills of amber ribbon. Loops of pearl trimming in chains with pendants came across the front of the bodice at the decolletage. Without the dash of cerise velvet the aress weuld have been dainty, shimmering; with that touch of audacity it was a triumph of successful color study, a brilliant and artistic gow: Its wearer was a brunette who dressed he hair high and wore it in an amber-colored aigrette with a dragon fly in jewels. In a Bower of Roses. In another box was a handsome matron who had almost built for herself a rose bower. Roses in pale pink and deep crim- son were heaped on the box rail before her, and she had fastened some to the pillar in front of which she was sitting. The skirt of her costume was of peach-colored bro- cade figured with pink and silver. The low-cut waist was of peacl} velvet; it fa: ened on the left side-just about the waist with two large silver buttohs and the deep open front was filled in. with horizontal folds of pink satin, leaving a square decol- letage. A big butterfy of Brussels lace partly covered this bodice front; from the ornament that held it the lace was draw) down the waist. Jewéled straps of peach velvet crossed the shouliers and there were, in addition, short lace sleeves. A more girlish dress wag of cream-col- ored lace over rose satin. ‘fhe lace was al- most dark enough to be cajjed ecru; it was dotted lightly with little diisies. The low- cut blouse bodice had short sleeves of lace and net. On each side of the bodice front was a bow of rose-colorel ribbon, and from each bow started a ribbon band that drop- ped to the waist, connecting with the rose- colored sash that ticd in front with a third and larger bow. The skirt was of rose-col- ored silk, figured. Delicate Materials. A debutante, who will be a bride at Easter, was radiant in a dress of white shirred chiffon glace. The delicate mate- rial was shirred up and down on the slight- ly pouched bodic2. This effect was made more prominent by the arrangement of the low front in steps; each row of shirring, counting from the shoulders, started a trifle lower than its next neighbor, the mezting of the sides giving a shallow, notched V form. On the skirt the shirring ran round and round. There were short lace sleeves. A Watteau drapery in the back was pretty and graceful, making up for the oth2rwise “messy” effect of so much shirring. I had only a glimpse of a novel-looking dress in a new shade of cerise glace and chiffon. The corsage was edged with lace ard draped with a cerise chiffon fichu; one end of this was drawn across the front and fastened with paste buttons at the waist, the other being crossed higher up. The transparent sleeves were frilled with chif- fen and lace,-and th2 quaint skirt was edged all round the hem and up the open front with a narrow cerise ruche. Green and White. A toilet of green brocade, opened over a petticoat of whit2 satin, flounced with net and lace; small green rosettes fast2ned the flounces. The bodice was draped with white chiffon bordered with green ruches; there were chiffon and lace sleev2s and a quaint collar of lace frills. Opera hoods of crimped chiffon in deli- cate colors were to be seen scudding about after the performance. ‘They were almost like Quaker bonnets made without the cur- tain. The opera cloaks were wonderful. A pretty girl wore a short one in burnt orange satin, trimmed with black lace and lined with ermine. Her dress was a resida green crepe, lined with reseda silk. Th2 skirt wes trimmed with three flounces of mousseline de sojie, with jet headings. The blous2 of jet on black mousseline was mede with a full pleated ru:fie of black edging the V-shaped corsage. ELLEN OSBORN. ee BEAUTIFUL LIPS. reulation of Makes Them. Frem the London Mail. A woran “beauty doctor” who makes the molding and coloring of the lips a special- ty said, when asked to talk of her methods: “The first thing to be considered is the rigidity or laxity in appearance and ac- tion of the lips. If they tend to stiffness or sternness of expression, one should be- gin to make them supple by gentle but con- stant massage treatment, supplemented by the cultivation of an intelligent smile. Understand me, I do not mean a perpetual grin, for that deepens the lines round the mouth, and gives the face a haggard, pain- ed expression anything but becoming. The smile to be cultivated is more a brighten- ing of the whole face with a sensitive part- ing and curving of the lips. It is not neces- sary to stretch them. “Then, instead of firmly closing the lips, as so many women have a habit of doing, which gives heaviness to the jaw and hard- ness to the mouth, they should learn to bring the lips together very lightly, allow- ing that always agreeable dimpled effect in the corners. It is that position which makes the mouth of a healthy child so kissable, and gives to him such an eager, interested expression. “But where the mouth ifs inclined to stand open, with loose, undefined lines, the vigor of the massage should be redoubled, using the treatment as a tonic to tone up flaccid nerves and muscles. With such a mouth the object must be to learn to hold the lips with firmness, tempered by grace, going through the practice as facial gym- nastics for stated periods, and until the training becomes a natural habit. “Closely compressed lips, 1 think, are most common among women, and, as a rule, not overhealthy women. To me this habit is indicative of nervousness, and 1 always supplement my treatment with a s00d nerve tonic. This is especially neces- sery where the lips are inclined to be pate and rigid. “Besides a thorough massage once a day, you should spend ten minutes, morning and evening, standing before the mirror, and with thumb and ferefinger pinch the curves of the mouth, accentuating their qelicacy and clearness. Until you have given this method a fair trial, say one month, it is impossible for you to judge the happy result. I am sure at the end of the first month you will be so pleased with the result that you will look upon it as a neces- sary feature of your toilet, as much so as combing your hair and brushing your teeth. I have seen the shape of the flat- test, straightest mouths changed by a few months’ treatment of this sort. “For that rich red color so much ad- mired in the lips, which can never be im- parted ty paints, one must have a good circulation, The manipulations of a good Masseuse are very beneficial, and should send the crimson stain to the surface by stimulating quick circulation. The mas- sage movements for the lips are always upward and circular. They are so simple that after a few. treatments by a profes- sional any one can learn to do her own work. Of course, however, after all’s said and done, health, exercise and amiability are the most potent factors after all in rounding, tinting and shaping a sweet mouth.” A Good © the Blood ——_——_~-e-+_—_____ Proper Trentment of Frozen Plants. From the Woman’s Home Companion. As soon as discovered, remove the frost- ed plants to a cool place, where the tem- perature can by some means be gradually raised until it reaches that to which the plants have been accustomed. A sudden rise in the temperature, after plants have been badly frosted, thaws them too rapid- ly, and results disastrously. Trim off the tender shoots which are beyond help, and then gradually raise the temperature dur- ing the day until it reaches the accus- tomed mark. They may then soon be placed in their proper places, but it might be well to shade them for a day or two from*the sun. A splendid and effective protection against a certain amount of cold is secured by placing over the plants cones made from paper. In this manner cold Grafts from about windows on very severe windy nights can be kept from harming the Plants. ee Steamed Apple Pudding. To make steamed apple pudding, Mrs. 8 T. Rorer gives her receipe in the Ladies’ Home Journal. “Line a mold with slices of bread and butter. Put in a layer of stewed apples, another layer of bread and butter, another layer of apples, and so con- tinue until you have the mold filled. Beat FOR UP-TO-DATE . WOMEN Far-Sighted B ‘Are Already Looki Toward the Summer. Shops Are Full of the Very Daintiest of Materials—Novelties in Color and Fabric. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, February 3, 15898. She who waits until torrid heat drives her to buying “something to wear” suit- able for summer cannot hope nor expect to have gowns as dainty in design as her mere farseeing sister who makes her plans as soon as the new year is born. Scarcely is time allowed to recover from Christmas festivities before the new cot- tons bloom out in their first fresh designs. It is not true that one can buy “just as gcod” later. These dainty patterns were woven in great quantities by the mills, but they will not weave these same goods again unless there is a demand which will make it worth their while to put them on the market next season. The most artistic designs will be bought by the enterprising shopper of today, while she of May or June must take the leavings. Just now the designs are bewilderingly beautiful. They could not be copied or re- produced in any other fabrics with the same effect. First of all come the mix- tures of cotton and silk, which are not as expensive as they sound, most of them being less than a dollar a yard. They are used principally for evening gowns, be- ing made up over silk linings, but next summer they will appear as afternoon &cwns as well. “Grenadine tissue” is one of the most beautiful materials shown. It looks exactly like transparent grena- dine. The body of it is cotton and the bars or strips which give it luster and character ere of silk. One particularly smart piece has a ground of white and a large plaid of old blue. It was new and fresh in pattern, and yet it reminded on of old prints of ladies in dull blue gown: “Canvas organdie” is another tempting fabric purse. ‘The mesh is like canvas, thus carrying out the t art of the name. This is particulariy beautiful 1 soft Roman stripe effects, delicaie col« such as pink, pale blue or lavender form- ing the silk stripes running through it. Dainty Materials. Both of the above materials reminded one of bolting cloth, or what bolting cloth might be if it only had imagination enough to take unto itself plaids and stripes of delicate silk weaves. Lace grenadine in yet finer, large and small flower effects is one of the most artistic combinations of the two fabrics shown. It looks very much like i ilks beloved of our forbears, which were recentiy revived. The gowns on a Waiteau fan might be fash- fened of this goods, so much does it loo like “ye olden time’ in spite of its modern weave. Lace zephyr is shown in some new com- binations and patterns, the silk in it being a new feature, but it is not as new as the belting cloth and pineapple weaves enum- | erated above. Silk and cotton bareges in both light and dark srounds, with stripes, | or covered with flowers, or p) be much worn, while beauti s they always do, with a id desire to order a gown from every tern. The figures o: organdies follow the popular craze for and are even alternated with contrasting color, until one wonders Whether any more paitern could have been put on one single bolt of clot All the 5 most readily and artistically to the cords and frills which are to muke sum and substance of t sum- mer’s gowns. For Faller Purses. One of the smartest of the new fabrics is mohair swiss, a mixiure of cotton and mohair, which is stiff enough to stand aione, yet perfectly transparent. It is not as beautiful as the Kk and cotton com- binations, but will be worn by women who prefer a gown which is striking and distinctive and not easily duplicated. Its price puts it out of competition with the ordinary summer goods, as it is nearer two than one dollar a yard. One in a red, which reminds the beholder of a ripe watermelon, Ss a black stripe running through it in an artistic manner. It will be made up over black or over silk of the same shade. of red and will figure at after- noon functions at an exclusive city by the sea in conjunction with a large black hat. The future owner of this combination has a complexion which defies combina- tions which kill the good looks of most women. cut th ize One material which never really loses | favor is dimity. Every year this dainty | fabric comes out again In new colors and combinations, each seemingly more beau- tiful than the last. One great point. in its favor is that when properly washed it comes back triumphant prettier t ever for the treatment which is the doing of so many pretty M facturers and buyers of dimity plain its beauty ving that in no other material, excepting perhaps satcen, does the pattern come out as clearly. A dimity in a bias plaid of green and white was shown at a recent opening. Green and white are the most restful and the cooi- est colors on a hot summer day, and this particular design will be beautiful with many ruffles, all headed and footed with Valenciennes lace. Popular Plaids. Bias plaids, by the way, are very much in favor and bid fair to be more becom- ing than the bayadere effects which are ich makes one long to open one’s | ipes of a | above materials will lend them- | i i ure fe the er The it i jaw Fr | wer addi ing, n of re th arm MRS. CARLY els in serviceable “ terns in summ: hint of bright these enough to save them until the mer is p popular, but, ie | How She Wan Ask for levelands when you order bak- ing powder. Then you will be sure of having shown on many of the spring model They come in large and small the large patterns should be avoided ab- solutely, average woman. Ginghams in large and smal! plaids are to be worn again this summer for morn- fhex unless one is larger thi breadth they are very pretty and « ly becoming to young girls of slender fig- ‘d gingham looks very much like ¢ cloth, but is a trifle softer and some- what coarser it much coole for wear on the links will be made material. Th weave, which wil The smartest shirt eemed to be a note of red cottons. Red dimities Whether t be ut gay gowns will yet too earl indications ths ept in small qu hottest color one " : MABEL FE eee es TRAIT st a it rt Su pected of Lifting on One Occasion. the ne e New brightest ik was during dinner. | were of black r t memory, to other men of note. to the love couple, and, when, in later days, opened up a floodgate of misunderstand- ta York Independent time for Mrs. Ds With pleasure the way in which she s of the wonderfui by the influence on him of George Eliot. Ove of her experiences was when visiting a shoemaker’s shop to make a purchase, transformation ribbon, uncut n by the purchase! on many shoe shce proved unsuit y stung it on to her le ried all she oc subsist and her husband. discussed seemed to If the piano were if any literary mai was I felt as if Ii taik of a youthful e I felt assured there was a an the ing gowns and in shirt waists. The lat- est gingham come in pretty Roman strip effects, which do not at all resem- Dle the depressing se effect of the } Striped ginghams of years ago. In | direct contrast to the Roman stripes are j the chambrays and ginghams with baya- dere stripes. In pale blue and pinks, with a waved white stripe running across the ecial- and madras clot © Oxford , Will be bought in large quan- > out-of-door-woman, who rev- shirt waists. The Ox- n- 1 make waists of this among nheard of before—were seen, also other red pat- his is a prudent of sum- red is ntities, find on 30YD. Shop: ‘arlyle’s after day she poured forth witty stories, most of which I have almest forgotten; but in any case, it would be desecration to attems! to peat almost any vf them. The character- | s of living men and wemen were often dashed off in a few pithy words, not with- out satirical touches. George Henry Lewes Was not one of her favorites; but I not ke effected at the time when sandal shoes were | Worn, like these represented in the origi- | nal illustrations of Dicken The sandals ft arm. and eard a shout be- er. Looking back, she saw the shop- nan running after her, much excited, and | insisting on her returning the stolen shoes. | Looking down she saw, to her surprise, a number of shoes dangling from her arm, The man indignantly asked her name and ress. Her astorisiment was such that her name was obliterated for the time from i uld recollect ne, “Miss Welsh.” The humor in this tale was enhanced to those who knew her, from 1» being so much out of keeping with her usual shrewdness and self-pessecsion, that no one could have icted it of her. scene, a year later, when s she named her coach- during 2 drive, turned and looked into the at receiving no orders as to route. saw her sit- ting, Mfeless, with a pet dog on her knee, | has often risen to my thoughts since that pleasant week in her soctety My strongest impression wa mutual love evidently rs. Carlyle subject. we thoughts of him. of the “biue day” was referred to, of the deep & between Every recall opencd n were inion of him was given, old showing his relation stening ngaged Froude radical misconception of the true state of affairs. ——