Evening Star Newspaper, January 15, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 15, 1898-24 PAGES. Gowns That Are at Once Stylish and Practical. FASHION DICTATES ONLY THE FORM Materials and Colors Are Left to the Individual Taste. NOVELTIES IN TRIMMINGS ee Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. DUBLIN, January 5, 1898. The fin de siecle woman no longer ap- pears at the breakfast table in loose gowns and disheveled locks hicden under a co- quettish cap—but greets the morn like Minerva fully armed and equipped for the busy day's fray and completion of duties and in a gown absolutely “comme-il-faut,” and very much more practical and chic than that of Zeus’ brilliant daughter. The morning or house gown should be of exquisite refinement and elegant sim- plicity, and suitable for every kind of morning occupath as making and re- ceiving morning calls, shopping and mar- keting. and comfortable enough for light household work, in which the American wo- man excels far beyond her English sister. Ladies’ cloth, covert or broadcloth, drap dete are shown by the manufacturers and in the shops as the proper materials for the morning or house gown, and are so various in quality and coloring that they suit every one, and the trimmings are still more adaptable to one’s purse and per- sonal taste. We would say that Fashion dictates only the form of the garment— cclor and trimmmings characterize the in- dividual taste of the wearer. Of Green Cloth. Our model of today is made of fine cloth of a deep shade of green with a running black line through it. The skirt is quite plain and made tight over the padded hips and extender; but flares considerabiy end rather suddenly from the knees down- ward, finishing at the hem by a border of rich black passementerie. The zouave bodice of the same cloth is bordered with a black satin band beau- tifully hand-embroidered in gold and jew eis, and opens over a vest of emerald green satin, veiled with fine black embroid- ered in gold. The high collar of folded satin has a full ruche of gold embroidered Esse, which also forms a frill around the waist of the sleeve. The folded belt is of black satin. The Russian blouse will be hardly recog- nized in its modified form, as the baggy effect will be in front, proving very muca Children's Exercises. From the New York Ledger. The amount of exercise in childhood and youth should be carefully regulated, as in ‘tances ambitious children will far 2 their strength in the effort to avoid outdone by older and more robust companions. In infancy the almost ince: sant movéments of a baby’s limbs show how imperative is the instinct of nature for muscular exercise. Hence, it is impor- tant not to restrict too much the freedom of infants, and care should be taken to pre- | yent their clothing being too tight to allow ample freedom of the limbs. Even the er of a young child is often useful as a means of exercising the muscles of the chest. « in moderation must not be discoura The best muscular exercise for young chi! dren, s well-known writer, is the woveme ch they are led ‘by the! They, if left to them- will run, tumble and wre: ch other like sportive kittens. ach limb and every muscle of their bodies will by turns rise and fall, swell. contract and perform all the actions of which the; capable. They are hardly at ment, d each movement they the fre and most graceful kind. ing can be more favorable for t of the muscular sy: . for vigorous growth and ‘soun than the motions of a child in the Noth- de free Indulgence of its playful moods. Du ing childhood and youth efforts should 1 to exercise every important mus body, each in its turn, so as to for all a compl and symmetrical You may neglect to mail a letter occas’ finds her last :ummer’s letter to you unopened, then look out!—Life, | more acceptable, as the back will be al- FOR MORNING WEAR| lowed its graceful concave curves which are not only hidden, but deformed by the folds of the Russian blouse. Braids and braiding show so abatement in public favor and as women always favor any style which tends to make the waist look smaller, & new design ts introduced icy promises to be popular on this ac- count. New Design in Braid. The effect is produced by a wide braid down the front, rather in the style of the boxplait of last year. This is connected by narrow braid, arranged in bias stripes from the armholes to the wide center braid, nar- rowing on either side, so as to culminate in a point at the waist. A spider webbing of black silk joins the stripes of braid and gives a lacelike appearance to the blouse. The skirt trimming must match the bodice and the pointed effect of the braiding can be continued in a deep yokelike garniture on top of the front and side gores of the skirt. Another blouse is made of silk Hercules braid in a shield effect, crossed at the yoke by bands of braid. edged with a fluted silk braid. This effective little ruffle also edges either side of the belt which holds the blouse front in place. One of the most effective and original designs for trimming the bottom of the skirt consists of five ro of narrow braid arranged in form of three sides of tagon, with a black design at interv A bowknot design is another handsome trimming for ng skirts and bodices. The large shops show them made of silk er woolen braid with jet heading—or in gold braid embroidered in daintily colored beads and spangles—all ready to be ap- pliqued on the gow For Evening Wear. For the evening or demi-toilet, fronts of black net covered with gold or silver spangles show that the love for glitter is not outgrown. For matrons, a novelty is shown in black net robes, spangled in blue, reflective of the favor which the combina- tion of black and blue finds in garments for all occasions. While on the subject of evening wear, we must not forget the invention of a de- cided novelty which is so effective and unique that it is sure to supply the demand. It is called Point d’Orchid and is an ap- plique of black net orchids embroidered in silk, on a ground of white mousseline de soie or finest white tulle. All indications point to the fact that laces will be as much worn in the coming spring and summer as they have during the past seasons. Floun of lace will be most popular end some cheap silk laces are finely knife pleated, 1s exemplified in a young ladies’ frock of white saun, the skirt of which was entirely covered with three wide flounces of knife-pleated white silk lace. The baby blouse has a yoke of unlined white lace, while the fullness consists of the knife-pleated lace. Two narrow flounces of the same lace edge the yoke and form a full cap on the shoulder of the gathered sleeve of unlined white net. ied sash of baby biue encircles the Aepea oasis {ALFRED Manninc, Dublin.) From the Omaha Splitting logs two women in it Logs for a Living. Bee. is the vocation followed by the woods back of Wall's station, on the Pennsylvania railroad. An- and Mary Wilson are the names of © two women. They are sisters. They split rails and make pit posts and caps for the Spring Hill Coal Company, wh works are between Wilmerding and Wall's. They do all the work of felling the tre | sawing them into proper lengths and final- jly with thei es splitting them Into pit | pe: They are assisted to some extent by | their younger brother. The girls work to- gether always and swing an eight-foot | cross-cut saw through ay oak tree with ap- parently as much case as some women run a typewriter. When the tree is sawed through and | ready to split one of the girls sets an iron | Wedge into one end of the log and with a | large maul weighing about twenty pounds i | plitting the log from end to ation is repeated until the log R s for posts. Then the axes re brought into play and the posts trim- | med up and shaped. The girls came from | Indiana. “The work 1 | is not hard when you get u: i said one, “and then we can ma! ' money splitting rails and making pit | in one day than we could in a week | Working in a kitchen. V the differ- ence, so long as the work is honest, how one a living? Although I work hard e rain or shine, I never get sick. I was never sick in my life. The people zround here all talk about us, but we don’t care for that. We are earning a good liv- ing and don’t owe any one a cent.” rn: icnally with impunity; but when your wife HOUSEHOLD HINTS How Eastern Women Care for Their Fine Rugs. RECIPE FOR TOMATO JELLY SALAD An Old-Fashioned Cake That is Worthy of a Trial. RULES FOR BREAD MAKERS —— Written for The Evening Star. In the care of oriental rugs or the Bag- dad or Kis Khileem draperies, American housekeepers have much to learn from the heusewives of the east, the birthplace of these artistic fabrics of the loom. There no one thinks of stepping upon them with his dusty shoes, and no chair legs grind untoward holes in them. But, beyond that, there is still a greater difference. Every hcusekeeper washes rugs and curtains at least twice a year, and oftener if occasion requires. All along the roadsides at the public fountains in Asia Minor one sees the women, skirts tucked up, and mounted on wooden clegs, vigorously scrubbing their rugs or draperies with a brush of twigs. Scap is rarely used, but this rubbing in pure water, length by length, and always with the warp, has the effect of bringing out the original luster of the material. It is owing to this care and scrupulous clean- liness that ancient rugs, embodying years of artistic work and skill, remain in per- fect condition after being in constant use from generation to generation. A pretty and s2asonable salad for this time of the year, when fresh vegetables are not always attainable, is tomato jelly salad. This is appropriate for luncheon, dinner or supper, and is best made the day before it is to be used. To make it, put in a saucepan a quart of tomatoes, a stalk of celery, a small onicn, cut into quarters, two bay leaves and a ‘half dozen cloves. Cock together until the tomatoes are very scft, then strain, and to a pint of juice add a half box of gelatine that has been soaked for an hour in a half cup of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of paprika or white pepper if preferred, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and the same of tarragon vinegar. Stir until the gelatine 1s all dissolved, then strain again and turn into cups or small bowls, about the size of a tomato, to harden. Serve on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise dressing, or use a round border mold and serve with the center of the mold piled with crisp celery cut into bits and mixed with mayonnaise. A real old-fashioned cake- with the “old oaken bucket’--is the dried apple cake. Although ancient, its merit entitles {t to an intreduction to this genera- tion, who will doubtless appreciate it as much as their “forbears.” Soak one and one-half cups of dried arples over night in cold water, and then stew soft the day be- fore using, in one-half cupful of molasses. Add to the apples one-half cupful of but- ter, stir to a cream with one cupful of sugar and two-thirds of a cupful of sour milk. Add again two well-beaten eggs, one tea- spoonful cloves, two teaspoonfuls cinna- mon and half a grated nutmeg. Roll in flour, one cupful of stoned raisins, two- thirds of a cupful of washed and dried cur- rants and an eighth of a pound of citron, shaved in fine bits. Line a cake tin with buttered paper; put in a layer of the ter, then a sprinkling of the raisins, rants and citron; then batter again. Fill the tin to the top and bake about an hour in a moderate oven. Imost coeval cur- While white bread can be more thorough- ly digested than brown, the latter, if prop- erly made, is more capable of satisfying the needs of the body. Persons using bread made from fine flour should supplement it at every meal with some food containing an abundance of proteid, such as meat, cheese or eggs, or dried p or beans. As ene-half the human body is made up of muscle, and fully one-fifth of that muscle is proteid, which can only be furnished by proteid again, the importance of muscle- supplying food in the daily bill of fare must not be lost sight of. An excellent rule for the “health food quick proc bread” is this, as taught in the cocking schools: Add to a pint of thin catmeal one pint of warm milk, two com- pressed yeast cakes dissolved in a little rm water, two rounded teaspoonfuls of sugar, six level teaspoonfuls of sherten- one rounded teaspoonful salt. Set in morning, adding entire wheat flour and stirring and cutting with the back of a knife until you can’t stir any more. Cover lightly and set to raise. When twice its bulk—which will be usually in about two hours and a half—stir and knead, divide in and again sect to rise. When light, in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour until well done. Not so many years ago it was’ the excep- tion to the general rule when a hou: keeper “‘set her sponge” in the morning in- stead of at night. With the old method the bread was good one week and poor the next, the exe ally being that it was either’ chilled or overheated. Under the present regime there {s no excuse for its being anything but perfect every time. More yeast and a shorter time result in much better bread than produced by the old method. A question often on the lips of beginners in the art of bread making is, “Why do you put potatoes in bread sponge?” and any answer aside from “to keep the bread moist longer” is usually a poser to even an experienced cook. Another explanation to one interested in the chemistry of cooking is that bolled potatoes being largely starch are mixed with the dough to hasten the rising, because cooked starch is changed into sugar more rapidly than the raw starch of the wheat, which in its normal state is close and compact. The sugar in turn is converted into alcohel and carbonic gas, and the gas being lighter than the dough rises and expands the whole elastic mass into two or three times fis original bulk. Among all the plenitude of picturesque or comfortable pillows and cushions, none perhaps fulfills its modest mission ‘better than the little cushions used at the hos- pitals for tucking under back, knees, hips or arms of the patient tired and “achy” from lying in one position. They are about a half yard in length by a quarter in widtn ard are made by loosely stufting a cover of ecarse mesked net or cheesecloth with Icng, narrow shavings of white tissue pa- per, such as are used in packing oranges. These are so soft, cool, flexible and alto- gether convenient that two or three might well be add to every “housekeceper’s “emergency” store against a day of need. In washing shawls or other knitted or crocheted wools, use warm suds, in which a_tablespoonful of ammonia has been acded to each gallon of water. Let the ar- ticle soak about twenty minutes, then squeeze it in the water until clean.’ Rinse in clear water, being careful that the tem- perature remains the same, and do not stretch too much by ironing or pulling. An excellent way to cook fresh haddock or cod is in tomato sauce. Cut a pound of the flesh in slices, salt, pepper and flour well and put in an earthen dish with a small slice of onion. Cover with strained tcemato and cook slowly from one-half to one hour in the oven or on top of stove. It will be found an excellent plan to have @ groove at the back of the pantry shelves so that platters and large plates may stand up, thus ecohomizing space. ——__-e+_____ Imperial Autographs Wanted. From the Pittsburg Dispatch. When Andrew D. White, now United States ambassador at Berlin, was minister to Germany nearly twenty years ago, he received some queer letters from Ameri- cans asking for his influence in their be- half in court circles. Perhaps the funniest of all was an epistle from an old lady liv- ing in the west, who inclosed in her letter four pieces of white linen, each some six inches square.’ “We are going to give a fair in our church,” she wrote, “and I am making an autograph quilt. I want you to get me the autographs of the emperor, the empress, the crown prince and Bismarck, end tell them to be very careful not to write too near the edge of the squares, as a seam has to be allowed for putting them together EFS Nott BSA CSNY Gu Set DAINTY AND USEFUL The Latest Styles in Tea Gowns for Fashionable Women. SOME POPULAR COLOR COMBINATIONS Can Be Made as Dressy as the Occasion Demands. TIGHT SLEEVE tgs AND A BELT (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, January 14, 1898. HERE ARE SEVY- eral things to be said about the tea gown. In the first place, the Russian blouse has lent it a belt, and, in the se ond place, its sleeves have grown small by sym Pathetic aff tion. If there were not other things to be said it would ap- bear that the tea gown had become a shorn Samson, bereft of its glories; for what food does a tight-sleeved, belted tea gown offer to the feminine imagination? But these are the compensations. Th: tea gown has acquired a train; this give: it a fighting chance of grace and guaran- 3 It has added to itself also long stole ends of lace or chif- fen, to hang down’ in front and preserve something of the loose effect endangered by the belting. It has adopted the sash; the Roman sash, the Dresden sa the mousseline de soie sash, all the kinds of 8 es that are making this winter gay and memorable. It has found profit in serving two masters, and has added open shawl sleeves or Greck drapery sleeves, as demanded by its own nature and traditions, to the skin-tight sleeves prescribed by the fashion makers, No General Style. As to its general style, it is to be re- marked that the tea gown reely has any longer a general style. The species comprises, broadly speaking, several va- ricties. There is the tea gown dinner dress, much in vegue in Englund; the tea gown evening dress, the tea gown proper, sacred to the singing kettle and the gossip over the steaming cups of orange pekoe, and the tea gown wrapper, which a salesgirl de- fined fer me the other day, when she said: “Some women, th ll a bath robe a tea gown these day The Englishwoman often makes it one of her economies, when a guest at a winter house party, to take with her a tea gown cut out prettily at the throat and made on lines comprehensive enough to admit of its use for informal dinner or evening wear, as well as for its own especial function. The tea gown proper is made of ac- cerdion-pleated mousseline de over silk oftener at present than of any other ma- terial. It is cut with a au pleat in the back oftener than in y other vi but it is no more confined to the W arrangement than it is to the mous Oriental satins, with much goid in the col- oring, geng in high favor as medium-weight stuffs, with vei- vet and the heavy silks at one extreme nd lace, net and chiffon at the othe Cashmete, which hd been popular for lends scme time for every sort of use, itself so well to the curves of tea’ gowns that it, too, comes in for a good share of liking. Primrose Yellow. One of the richest tea gowns that I have seen this winter was worth nearly all the gold its coloring suggested. It was built of primrose ellow ik cut as a trained princess robe, and was open in front and edged all about with a thick ruche of gold- colored chiffon. The underdress, as it showed in front, was veiled with gold chif- fon, alternately shirred and left free. At the’ throat the dress was finished with a square yoke of gold passementerie, a nar- row plastron of which reached to the waist line. At the back rose a Medici collar of mauve silk with a chiffon ruching. ‘There were long coat sleeves of mauve silk closely shirred; these were overhung by accordion- pleated oversleeves of gold chiffon, fastened at the oulders by gold buckles. A heavy passementerie girdle with broad ends gath- ered in the princess draperies as well as the underdress and hung almost to the ground. The train was lined with lace flounces apd the princess fronts were faced with white silk. This tea gown forms one item of the utiful and costly trous- se , A handsome tea gown ordered by Mrs. O. on, H. P. Belmont is of peach-colored velvet, lined with silk of the same color. Like the dress scribed, it is cut_as an open . With a train. The sides fic ly into the curves of the figure, mak- a gown of great state and dignity. The how a ing fronts of the bodice are cut away to middle piece covered with lace cascades. The skirt opens on a front tablier of lace flounces over white’silk. /At the throat the bodice is cut away in front; it rises behind in a Medici collar of yelvet, Coat sleeves of peach-colored silk are threaded with gold’ Fiat, caplike velvet epaulets are introduéed, presumably one of their last appearances, for nothing seems more certain than, that, the plain sleeve will refuse to put up any; longer with such an infringement of its full rights and dig- nities. The color scheme of this gown is the best of it; peach tints with just a hint of gold are the most becoming imaginable for many complexions, especially those of the creamy tones. Silk and Chiffon. A tea gown that has been designed especially for a young Spanish girl prom- inent in artistic cir¢les {s of cream silk, velled with amber chiffon, the two colo suiting admirably the warm olives of its wearer's skin. The silk is cut as a close- fitting princess dress without train; it is finished at the throat by a large, flat, square-cornered collar covered @losely with scroll embroidery in gold. This ¢ollar is cut out in a circle fér the neck and hangs to the bust below; it is bordered with a narrow silk frill. 'A’panel of embroidered silk runs from the collar to the ground, widening a little toward the bottom. Over this dress, which would be exquisitely lace-edged. dainty without a touch, comes a second sown of chiffon. Breadth after breadth of the amber-hued stuff, laid in accordion pleats, is mounted on the silk until it hangs as a loose and apparently seamless tissue from under the flat collar all around. It ts caught to the gold-embroidered panel dn front, but for the rest floats like a cob- are finished at the wrists and are part- loose drapery sleeves of chiffon. These, however, are short enough to leave a good section of coat sleeve visi- ble, so that be who runs may read t she who must be cbeyed is obeyed. Wheth- er “she” will long submit to the subter- fuge of sleeve doubling any more than to epaulets, is another question. Popular Combinations. Black net over biack silk, black net over white silk and white net over black silk are mtch used combinations. With tea gowns of this sort there goes usually a black velvet bolero. A silvery gray or an ivory white crepe de chine over pink silk is nearly always successful. Pale yellow cioth is the material of a piquant tea gown for quite a young wo- web. The tight coat sleeves with lace frills ly covered by man. It is cut with a slightly trained skirt 1 a blouse bodice, pouching a very little in front over a belt set with turquoise and topaz. fanciful collar of guipure, arranged at the throat in a square, which is edged with sable fur. The sleeves of white silk are of the usual coat shape and are cov- ered with lace put on tight. Deep frills finish the wrists. Wing sleeves are added of pale yellow velvet, lined with white silk and edged with sable. ELLEN OSBORN. ——____+e+ OVERDRESSED WOMEN. It has a wide and Inordinate Vanity: Encourages the Growth of Loud Gowning. From the Philadelphia Record. She is as plain as a pipestem in her dress. To this comment, uttered in a most con- temptuous tone, I replied: I sincerely ad- mire the good sense that prompts a woman belonging to the middle classes to dress quietly. Her social grade calls for only the simplest modes. You cannot deny that the subject of your criticism is always pre- sentable, no matter where she goes or with whom she is thrown, My defense did not please. I could see I was regarded as decidedly “queer.” This, however, rarely deters me from speaking my mind. I oy felt impelled to do sion. our day is overdressing. This I do not find among rich wo- men, but in the midst of the ping their w sisters. Limited incomes are responsible for the nt appearance of gowns, hats, wraps tawdry simply because of their environments. This must of nece: ty be so, for the woman of average me by comparison sparse opportunitie s displa ns for dre: y Her inordinate vanity refuses to admit this. When she ys an elaborate article of dress it is done with but one object in view—namely, to find in her mirror an im- age that pleases her. ~ She does not stop to consider how this bit of extravagance is ta be fitted into her every-day surroundings. She squeezes and pinches in every conceivable way to get to- gether a costume that must be put to se- verely practical use: eled, mind you, after a creation designed to figure only at elaborate functions. The fussy original, a very stunning toilet, appears at a swell luncheon, a fashionable reception or In some place frequented by exclusives; the copy switches its way through the shops and along crowded thor- oughfares, stamping the wearer with every swirl of its draperies as unrefined. No use to beat about the bush. We wo- men judge each other by the way we clothe ourselves. Often the judgment is unfair, indeed, downright cruel, and should not be allewed a leg to stand on. But stand it does, and often to our complete undoing. ——_—_+ e+ tment for a Red From the Philadelphia Inquirer. Nothing is a greater blemish to the face of a woman than a ‘red nose. This frri- tating condition y arise from various causes, one of the chief being indigestion. habit of bolting the food is very often the cause of the indigestion which shows itself thus. Sufferers from red noses aris- ing from indigestion should be most careful in their diet, avoiding heating foods and hot drinks. ‘The food should be taken slowly, and each mouthful be well masti- cated. Sometimes a red nose is due to the of the nasal duct or delicacy of the exp organs. The inflammation may then be treated as follows: Prepare a w: containing 154 grains of powdered borax, one teaspoonful of eau de cologne and five ounces of soft water. First dissolve the borax in the water and then add the eau de cologne. When the nose burns damp it with | this lotion and let it dry on. If, when dr: ‘it still burns, repeat the treatment. A: other mixture for the same trouble may be folio: olve thirty grains of borax in one ounce of rose er and orange water in equal parts. Wet the nose with this lotion about three times a day, letting it dry on. When the redness of the nose arises from kind of congestion it should be washed in warm water only on going to bed. A cold in the head will often produce a red and inflamed condition of the nose. A little cold cream should then be applied to the sore parts. The following is an easily prepared and safe recipe for cold cream Get half a pound of the very best lard, put it in a basin, pour on it boiling water, and when cold drain it off. Repeat this process |three times; then, after quite freeing the lard from the water, beat it to a cream with a fork and scent it with essence of bergamot. The nostrils should never be touched with the fingers. To wash them, a little hot ‘water should be snuffed up and then eject- ed. Nose. Monotonous Liv: Frem Harper's Bazar. Monctonous or colorless lives are lived by two classes of peopie—those who appear to like them and those who pretend not to do 50. Those who like a quiet monotonous living do not need our pity. If they prefer a placid existence, which does not make strenuous demands on their minds or their bodies, they have a right so to choose. ‘They remind one continually of the old rhyme of the sloth who refused to get up in the morning to look at the sunrise. “it can be done,” he said, “without advice from me.” To an unprejudiced mind life seems to have been made to get ahead in, and if we refuse to learn or to grow. to suffer or to feel, during the opportunities we have in this world, we cannot wonder that we know no more at its end than we did at its beginning. But we cannot pity those who complain of the monotony of daily living. Lives are only monotonous where the livers wi: them so to be. New aspirations, new de- sires, new thoughts, introduced into a life, will certainly change its current, and, in time, its environment and conditions. Peo- ple who complain of monotony are usually too mentally lazy to plan new circum- stances for themselves. ——_++____ She—“And you say you loyed me the first time you saw me?" He—“Yes. What did you think of me?’ She—“The same thing that I am thinking now.” He—“Well, what was it?” She—“That you didn’t know what to do with your hands.”—Chicago News, bd and it has been mod-{ “IT was persuaded once to try another baking powder than Cleveland’ once too often. s, but that was just Having used Cleve- land's for 20 years, always with the greatest succes duced (again) to s, I cannot be in- use anything else.” Mrs. J. M. Don't let peddlers or grocers substitute any brand for the oid, rel. table standard @leveland’s Baking Powder. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Styles in Dressing the Hair for Day and Evening Wear. The Chignon Has Again Made Its Ap- pearance—Nets Are Worn—Not Always Becoming. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, January 13, 1898, When one perceives the depressing fact that chignons have returned for day wear, | and that the popular manner of dressing the hair for evening weer is in a little knot quite at the top of the head, announcing these modes 1s a painful duty and no: a pleas ure. It is undoubtedly true that chignons have returned. But at present the mode is not at all popular, and we can only hope that «ach woman will study carefully its be- comingness as applied to her particular self before she rashly adopts it. To dress the hair a la chignon it ts brushed softly back from the face in natural or acquired waves, generally leav- ing room for a pompadour effect over the | forehead. It ts then softly twisted into a long or round coil at the back of the head, a little higher than the nape of the neck | and confined by a silk tape, such 2 grandmother's might have worn, or by: invisible hair net. Who could help he that the Invisible net had disappeared n tc return, and lo! here it is. Parisia men are reported to be wearing mo: rate nets, beaded with tiny gold or steel beads, and even jeweled, when purse is well filled. Jeweled and ets are ancie deed, but their p ticability, unle: has a maid to d unfasten them, 1s doubtful. Nor do le that such a fashion co: popular, now that there no sumptuary laws to confine such costly | trifles to the class who are able to them put on and off with comfort. An Inartistic Coil. | The modified chignon, with its soft waves of hair about the face and a few curis es- | caping from the confining net at the back of the head, is not half so undesirabie as | the latest fashion of dressing the hair for | evening. The soft mass is taken in both hands and combed as high on the head as one can get it. Then, that it shail be di- rectly on top of the head, the patient owner of the locks to be dressed must bend for- ward and have her hair combed downward | s she hangs her head toward the tioor. | When it is quite smooth and flat it is pulled | out into a pompadour in front and coiled in | a knot, a little round knot, on the top of the head. On this inartistic and very often unbecoming coil is put the bonnet, orn: ments or whatever is to be worn with the full dress gown. And so popular has this | amazingly careless knat become that it has spread from one woman of fashion who wore it at the horse show all through the ranks of society in New York with such rapidity as to raise the secret hope iat it will become too popular, when we may look for its instant discontinuance by the set who first introduced it. High in Popular Favor. The pompadour seems to grow in popu- larity, in spite of the fact that it is worn by all classes alike. There are various 4. vices to be purchased for keeping the hair | in this shape, but they should not be used. Only a little practice and patience is re- quired to train e hair to lie softly and fluffily above the brow. Of course the hair to form the pompadour must first be sep- | arated from the res will make it fall into place readil; 'S to re- mark that many people who insist on this style of hair dressing simply because it is popular are making themselves alm hi eous. With a very lofty, narrow brow, or with a prominent nose, it is a mockery and brings out very hard lines in an otherwise attractive face. Those who have not succumbed to the | craze for the knot on the top of the head | above described are still wearing the hair | waved or curled from the roots to the coil, which is gencrally put about the crown of the head for full dre: So head of hair is considered properly finished for evening until some ornament has been adder Low combs are more worn than high, and un- der the latter head come the shell and amber side combs and the pompadour combs, which still retain their popularity. Graceful shell daggers are worn again, one need only hunt about for those she put aside a few years ago. Jeweled dag gers are much worn by those who are for- tunate to possess them, and who wear them either in the hair or fastened in the gown, as fashion dictates. Just now it is tne hair, as everything bright and glitter- ing is put there for balls, dinners, con- certs and even the theater. For balls and full dress receptions there are ornaments composed of feathers, ostrich tips, a litule bow of twisted velvet and glittering rhine- stone ornaments, Anything and every- thing is worn, but plain at night the hair must not be. Goog Taste Required. In nothing does good taste and an eye for making the best of oneself show as in the manner of dressing the hair. To blind- ly follow the prevailing mode is the height of folly unless one has a beauty which is above dimming by any means. Yet an elaborate method for evening is becoming to almost every face except the extremely youthful one. It adds dignity and smooth- ness to even a furrowed countenance. Per- baps that is the reason the prevalent knot is making the best known women in New York look several years older apiece. it has not enough ciaboration for the toilets with which it is worn, nor does it tend to conceal the passing of youth. Young girls are wearing a pompadour which is softened by little curls waved back from the face at each side. The rest cf the hair is slightly waved and either braided or coiled rather low upon the head, und held in place by a black ribbon. This is very becoming to youthful faces, and trim as well. * For all outdoor sports the hair should be neatly braided and coiled smoothly about the head. An oblong coil is more becom- ing, as a rule, than a round one. It is not considered in good taste to dress the hair elaborately, nor have curls or frills escap- ing from the braid or coil when one is on a bicycle, or on the golf links. Fo: morning wear about the house, shop- ping or walking, the hair is still worn coiled at the back of the head, or braided | fashionable y | MANAGEMENT OF SERVANTS A Difficult Problem for Even the Best of Housekeepers, Some Sensible Suggestions as to the Division of Labors, Wages and Evenings Out. From Harper's Bazar. It is a pity that in this country there are no rules regulating the wages, privi- leges end duties of domestics in our em- ploy. To a great extent each housekeeps er must be a law unto herself, is no higher power to which she can refer. The only unchangeable rule for the mis tress see to be, when in doubt, discharge your servant. This habit beth mistress nd there of “change” on the part of nd domestics is a growing one. Sometimes a careful adjustment or n even isposition of duties would do with the necessity of a peremotory 1. Housekeeping is a business, and ife must bring to bear upon it ness t the root of the evil. Upon one do- tic the heaviest burden of the work , While another in the same house has what in y place.” is known as nt parlance Question of Wages. On the question of serv: rages there can be no fixed la : differ in different localitics. A proficient cook in @ rt of town, and: in the em- ploy of a millionaire’s wife, will demand nd receive double the wages that are earned by her equally proficient sister whose: is neither wealthy nor in that erty Wr Dame Fashion jally as hers. A man always higher wages ax a serv- ant than a woman. He i: mess what may be called “a fancy - and must be paid for accordingly. > experience of houseke goes to prove that a butier is o ouly ex. pensive, but an unsatisfact« in hous, many does the work that vy for a woman. This function erally in the emplo: living on th are to keep the furnace and cle attend to the walk in front of the house. pa 36 a month. the rate The mistress who would have her ser- vants dutiful and conscientious must be nsiderate of them. She must bear in mind that their “evenings off” and ‘Ja’ out” are pleasant happe es to them, and give them as much delight as her evening the opera or theater gives her. Of course, each servant must have his or her own special time off, and nothing should be allowed to interfere with it. In the old in which there are three ser- each one is allowed an and an evening a week, and one every two weeks. The terre gins after lunch and ends at dinner-time, and is not on the same day on which the s taken. By this are always two of th 1 the t a time, en them they rform the duti absent do- The cook's Sundays out must | arranged so that she will be at home to prepare the dinner. To mplish this the Sunday dinner is often served at noon, so that when that meal is dispatched the cook has the remainder of the after- noon and the evening to her: servant preparing the supper. ving Notice.” When engsging a domestic have her understand that when s to leave her new situation she must give week's warning of her intention to go the expiration of her month of service, eit a week's wages. A week is a sufti- y long period in which to keep in a heuse a dom who is determined io zo. Afte s seliom worth jd ever humble The « if, the second it is well to wishes a at Ww, sea have ¢ ppiied to even When she is worthle arn the wages she di ne goes the better, and the 1 waste no words nor lose her temper in informing the offender that her services are no longer re- quired. In e of drunkenness or dis: derly behavior, the law, in the shape of the nearest policeman, should be called in, and the unruly member be sumn removed by this guard of the public peac From Truth. A pleasant way to entertain an evening party is to introduce the new and fascin= ating game of Hobgoblinks, which is p ed in the fcllowing manrer: A long parlor or saloon is required, possibly two. In fact, it is a good plan to prepare as many as you have, for it is en extensive game. Remove the pictures and bric-a-brac from the walls, and group the chairs in the mid- dle of the cm. Each guest is then pro- vided with a pail of kaisomine and a white- wash brush, with which he or she makes a grotesque splash on the wall. Thes promptu pictures are often very funny much merriment is the result. By hi the wallparer and the kalsomine of ple: antly contrasting colors, beautiful effects may be « ice, should be awarded to the one who suc- ceeds in making the largest picture with one splash of the brush. As there is more or less danger of spattering, the thought- ful hostess will provide her guests with aprons to pratect their clothing. Very effective and pretty aprons may be made from bemstitched linen handkerchiefs, ornamented with drawn work or embroi- dery by the hostess’ own fair hands. One side of the landkerchief should be gather- ed on a ribbon, which may be tied about the waist. =e Worth While to Know Him. by women who feel that the morning duties of a housewife require plain and neat out- lines. Many women nowadays wear the hair high on the head with all house gowns, and retain a coil at the back of the head with street gowns only. But with all the modes employed the first thing to be considered about any new method of dressing hair is its becom- ingness to the lar person who thinks of adopting it. MABEL BOYD. From the Boston Journal. Salesman—“You were the lady, I believe, who purchased th> cook book? Will you take this card, please?” Lady—“ ‘Dr. Pilton.’ Why do you give me this card?” Salesman—“We always give one of his cards to a purchaser of ‘Ovencr’s Cook Bool He is very successful in indiges-