Evening Star Newspaper, January 8, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 8, 1898-24 PAGES. Costemer Totke Imperial Family’ of Ausuia. STYLES FOR SPRING ee A Leading Authority Indulges in a Look Ahead. NEWEST SKIRTS Fashionable Sleeves Have Assumed a Most Becoming Shape. Spectal Correspondence of The VIENNA, December » forced to greet the and unw train is reviving. show a decided elonga- We @ sensational he new ¥ me an . and some rather precipi- ts are taking time by the ering fully to Fashion's ob- and are showing full- ins on all new skirts, and thus before us mental visions of whirl- ing clouds of dust or sticky crusts of mud, which prove the horror of every and self-respecting person We can but recommend hearty opposition on the part of our to this tyrannical mandate, while we ourselves will do all In our power to force the train back to its proper domain—the smooth parquet of the ball room or drawing room. In other respects the skirt still adhere: to the y style bringing sensible ‘air readers n, smooth form. A commenda for tall women is a tight skirt whi is smooth to the knees, where it finishes with a flounce. Bias strips, braiding ¢ ry conceal the line of application yunce to the skirt. This unlined when made of he lightly and gracefully ov tion skirt. ¢ cloth the silk founda- in front over a trimmed goods hem with a narrow of trimming gowns in reat advantage of taller and more The style, Princess. Another which invariably proves flattering to a full figure, is the princess princess is the most elegant and because it cannot become popu- perly made, it must issue an artist In the . Little imperfections are ex ly hidden by the conciliating belt at the Waist line of the separate skirt and bodice; but the htest mistake made in the con- ruction of a princess gown is unconceal- dress. w idea in to the irrepressi ble Russian blouse waist, round in front and finishing with a belt, while the back is elongated into short coat tails. The Russian “blouse, with or without bs s sti shion’s favorite for street ouse Many blouse bodices of or dark cloth are cut round at the » showing yoke and standing collar of FROM CHURCH 0 Cl OTHES. How a Spanish Woman Puts on Her Mantilla. s B When a senora or senorita turns her mind from the church it is to think of clothes; From Harper oat in fact, the two thoughts often run togeth- er, a5 there is uch ch hgoing in Spain. The ma spelt marn-tealya inctive mark of - ultra-fashion: ladies ights, theaters, annual and on summer even- calling or shopping. Only und unfashionable persons do not piece of lace ard and a half in length and rf in width. The front border finish, while the bottom is trimmed with a flounce a quarter of a yard deep, which rounds up the side €dges abvut seven inches. sides have in order to hold this graceful lace, the hair must be piled high on the top of the head. Place the front edge of the mantilla along the upper line of the forehead, fasten to the hair with a pin, after making sure that the ends which hang on either side of the face are exactly even in length. With & hand a little above each ear, pinch the lace and draw it back to the crown of the bead, where it is very slightly lapped and fast ned h f by another pin. The fiounce, lis naturally about the shoulders, t in by the front ends and pinned breast. rrange a mantilla it would certainly be- fashionable for the theater, as it is oming. tradi- ft ating. Let any other woman ws how to wear a passably becom- ing ha has only been considered “neat lcoking’ asant looking,” wear antilla for a trial, and people will chang their criticism to “charming,” “lovely,” etc It softens the face wonderfully. Doubt all who protest that “only a Spanish woman could arrange the thing,” or that “it is be- coming to a certain style alone;" believe that it only takes three movements of the hands and three pins to put on a mantilla. Spanish women are HAVE FOLL TRAINS) iled_ with yellowish lace or richly embroidered. A narrow strip of fur edges the yoke i pure or Irish laces are in great de- mand for day and evening gowns. Other ble trimmings are narrow velvet sewed on at Close intervals ar, while outdoor costum th decorations of braid Narrow pipings of satin are a - of decoration en light cloth fashion Beautifal Belts. Its are varied as well as beautiful. are made of chain links of more or less costly me sometimes set with -precious stones. Leather exquisite buckles of precious meled or filigreed, and ribbon or side, front or back ttertly standing precious or se belts metal silk } under havi or king mere and more assumed a most becoming shapi rtile field for the fantasy of Plaits and folds in vert form the sleeve, 1 at the shoulder slight puff or epaulet. middle ages also seem to contribute proving a luction. for the shed evalier sans peur et sans reproche Marguerite’s dainty arm covering have been remodeled for the modern re entative of the fair sex. metimes the sleeves are of different erial from the rest of the gown, as, for instanee, velvet sleeves finish a dress of cloth, satin constitutes the sleeves of a | velvet gown and heavy silk toilets show “a novelt shape of richly embroidered cloth si Our model of today is of a reception gown, the artistic merit of which will ap- peal to the most refined taste. White and Blue Satin. The overskirt is comp. biue satin striped in wide zigzag lines. The white lines are covered with shirred white tulle and then cut so as to form a transparent insertion of tulle between the blue satin stripes, and showing the white satin petticoat underneath. The overskirt is edged at the hem with a full narrow ruche ked white satin, has "¥ cream antique . embroidered with gold and nd opening over a tablier of white V toria lace, also embr with gold thread and spangh The front of the tight, deeply decollete bodice of blue and white atin forms a vest of the same lace as the tablier, ed of white and The shoulder drapery consists of a | sraceful fall of lace over the upper arm, | leaving the shoulder bare and extendin j in deep reve and finally « of diamor of mandarin velvet. Narrow bias bands of the same cover the gathering of the sleey and form the shoulder straps, which are attached with small diamond buckles. The lace at the back of the bodice 1s arranged into a kind of surplice, which Is accentu- ated by a sprig of yellow velvet blossoms. A smal! bunch of the same blossoms deco. rate the left side of the decollete in front. Long white gloves are worn with this tol. along the sides of the vest ing under the large buckle s which finishes the folded belt velvet drapery let. (Cu. Deecout, Vieans 5 A DIFFERE T LOVELINESS, as It Appronches Has Its Many Charms, “s Bazar. do Age From Harpe It is a difficult matter with many people | to grow old gracefully, as the saying goe: It is not agreeable to them to grow old at all. Life is so pleasant here that they are |eath to give it up, loath to change its | Conditions, loath to drop the activities, the | Teceptivities, the delights, of youth. ‘They | hate to find themselves unable to do the things they always have done—to walk the | miles, to climb the hills, to achieve the | task, that once was such mere play to them. The first gray hair is a jest, the first lines on the face give no dismay; but when the gray hairs serve to powder the others, when the line deepens from nostril to Up, when the cheek begins to droop, when the flesh loos=ns under the chin, then they find it no laughing matter, but one for gloom, if not for tears. And yet age has its very distinct value. What would a house be, what would a nursery be, without its grandmother? How much of an ol-ject in life would be missed by every member of the family to which > Is a center and a rallying point! While is there the elder people have some one yet older than themselves to allow them till a feeling of youth, a sort of tender barrier, too, between them and the dark unknown; the younger ones have some one who makes the past an actual true story for them, something less far away and dim snd unbelievable, some one who really seems to hold up the sky on her shoulders; and there is some one also there for whom the ary doing of little things calls out the spirit of effort and sacrifice. Nor is age unlovely to the eye. As there is one glory of the sun and another glory of the stars, so there is the beauty of youth and the beauty of age, too. It is not the beauty that appeals to the senses; it is perhaps a loftier and a purer type than that—it has the difference that there is between a red rose and a moonbeam, be- tween the bedy and the spirit. And’ one who has seen it in its perfection on the lovely face of some placid old woman finds it restful to the eye, and all as pleasant to the soul as the blushing beauty of the young girl whose cheek wears the velvet bloom of the peach, and whose lips are pouted for kisses, but whose soul has yet to find its transfiguration. HOUSEHOLD HINTS A Seasonable Addition to the Lunch- eon or Supper Table. AN APPERIZING DESSERT OF APPLES Serving Jellies and Salads in Artistic Little Baskets. MENU FOR A DAINTY MEAL ———— Written for The Evening Star. Among the seascnable additions to the lurcheon or supper table are oyster chgps. One of the best rules for their evolution is this, for which Mrs. Rcrer siands sponsor: Drain carefully a solid pint of cysters; then throw them into a saucepan, Lringing care- fully to a boiling point; drain again, this time saving the liquor; chop the oysters with a silver knife; measure the liquor and add sufficient milk to make half a pint; turn this into the saucepan; rub together one large tablespoonful of butter and two of flour; stir this into the hot milk and fquor; stir constantly until you have a smooth, thick paste; now add the oysters; cook over the fire just a moment; add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, ten urops of onion juice and quarter of a te; spoonful of nutmeg. ‘Take from the fire, aud the yolks of two egss, cook again just a minute, and turn out to cool. When cold term into cutlet-shaped croquettes, dip into veg and bread crumbs, and fry in’ smoking ot fat, or an extra quantity of oysters be procured, and parboiled. When the mixture is cold and ready to form, put # wkole oyster in the center and cover it With the mixture prepared for cutlets; then ip and fry them. Oyster cutlets are usual- ly served with plain’ cream sauce. “A sensible castom ts NJ., woman's club rcon a month, as nceting é that of a Newark, which meets one after- 1 aims to combine in this self-improvenent, octal _inter- vurse and a pretty interchange of hos- ality. o prevent this becoming izksome, each nember of the club pledges herself in serv- ing the lurcheon to the twenty guests not te exceed a cost of $5. A fine of 5 cents is imposed for every 25 cents over that amount. The menu for a recent meeting, \.bich was a model in its way, consisted of: Tomato Bisque. aked Clams, Lettuce and Olive Sanwiches. French Chops with Pe Celery. Chicken Salad. Hominy Croquettes. Orange Baskets. Cake. Biscuits. Salted Almonds. After luncheon the members adjourn to the parlor for short talks of eight minutes each upon the prescribed reading of the last morth. In this reading current fiction is excluded, but standard fiction allowed. Now that the wholesome apple {s again te housekeeper's chief fruit dependence, varicus ways of serving should be studied to avoid the morotony which palls even With a good appctite. A delicate and ap- retizing dessert is the combination of ap- ples with gelatine. Make a sirup, allowing half a pound of sugar to a pint and a half of water. Pare, core snd halve six large fine, tart apples: add the juice and grated rind of half lemon to the sirup, then crep in the apples ani cook slowly until tender, keeping them as whole as possible. Remove the apples to a glass dish and add a quarter of a bex of selatine, soaked in a litle cold water, to the sirup. When dis- solved, strain and turn over the apples and set in a cool place to harden, Serve either With or without cream. This may be ried oceasionally by beatirg the whi 1 an egg to a stiff froth with a tablespoon- ful of sugar and dropping in spoonsful on the apple. Ices, jellies and salads are now usually served ‘in artistle baskets or cups made from orange, lemon or shaddock skins. ‘To co this, first scrub the skins thoroughly in cold water that no unsightly specks mar thelr fair surface, wipe dry, and then with sharp scissors shape into handled baskets or cut an entire circular piece from one end, laying this aside for a cover. Remove the pulp of the fruit with a sharp-pointed spoon. Chill the skins by packing lightly for an hour in the can of an ice cream freezer surrounded by salt and ice. s of the fru dusted Then fill with pie with sugar, with orange frappe, kind of ice cream, salad, or color of jelly, and pack ‘again in the fr » serve. alad, it should only be chilled, not n. and each cup served on a or any d blocks er until ttuce » fruit or jelly bask may be served on dainty dessert plat The clover craze shows no signs of abate- m it, and cle r charms, clover bracelets, clover brooches, clover ‘hat pins, clover buckles for belts and garters, and clover pendants rule the day. Real clover they , too, and doubly lucky the possessor of one of her own fine carefully p on ng. ‘The leaves are first They are then mounted silk or satin, encased in crystal or giass nd set In a narrow frame of gold or sil- ver. Most of the shapes are round, though the diamond, oblong or square shapes are oceasionally seen. ‘The size depends upon the clover leaf and the ornament it adorns. Jf the fad waxes with the months, by June the four-leaf clover hunters. will be busler than the traditional bee, and the farmers— well, the farme lues his crop will have to lay in a new stock of barbed wire. Wheys are among the most valuable ad- ditions to an invalid’s bill of fare, who Is unable to take milk on account of the solid curd forming in the stomach, and yet who requires the elements of milk aside from the casein. All wheys require stirring until they separate, then strain, when the little sein that goes through, being broken, is eastiy digested. To prepare lemon whey put two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice into a half pint of hot milk, cook until the whey separates from the’ curd, strain and sweeten with one teaspoonful of sugar. Wine whey is made by adding one gill of wine to a halt pint of sweet milk heated to the boiling point. Strain through a fine Strainer and serve, sweetened or not, as taste demands. Although the holl plethora of pillows proper, with their nd cushions, are over, the craze is not, and a new design for Washington's birthday is already peeping above the horizon. Navy blue linen is the foundation for this tribute to the “Father of His Country,” and on ft the words, “Washington, America’s First Hero,” are embroidered in red. A heavy red cord fin- ishes this cushion, which, in nursery or some embryo student's room, will be effec- tive in impres upon the youthful mind its first lesson in American history. Where the student lamp or drop light re- quires a little more toning down than that afforded by the glass or porcelain shade, a ruffle of lace gathered full and tied about the neck of the shade will be found both simple ard effective. Vegetables that have been slightly touch- ed by frost may be frequently restored by soaking for a time in cold wate! The irony of fate: To have a mother who looks like this, and then to “take after” one's father.—Life. AT A MIDWINTER TEA The Season When Fashions Usually Run to Extremes. WHATNEW YORK WOMEN ARE WEARING Nothing Particularly New to Be Expected for Weeks. RETURN OF THE BUSTLE (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, January 7, 1 HEN THE TEA BE- yesterday afternoon I saw that I might as well abandon hope of sand were tucked at in- tervals. The throat was finished with a plain band. A hat was worn of heliotrope velvet with black feathers. A Novel Dress. A novel dress of military blue silk ap- peared at the afternoon tea with which this disquisition began. The clinging skirt was tighter than usual about the hips and was covered to within half a yard of the hem by narrow, thick-set ruffles. A deep flounce of navy blue cloth then assumed re- sponsibility. This was faced with silk and headed with a band of Persian lamb. Like most flounces of this day, it sloped up on the sides, thus accentuating the flare of the skirt bottom. The bodice of this costume Was a coat blouse of Persian lamb, finished with high collar, square revers and a huge white lace tic. More curious combinations than this of silk and wool are becoming customary. I have seen within a few days a number of handsome silk dresses, trimmed with 1il- s’ folds of cloth of the heavier kinds The blouse of one of the pretty tea pour- S free from eccentricities. It was of » over pale yellow silk; the gauze was anged in a latticework of puffs, front, back and sleeves. ELLEN ——_ AFTERNOON T er white silk gauz OSBORN. Th Means of Many Hap unions. om Harper's Bazar. y Little Re- Bette (Ne ne |The graceful function which little by bee voung ma, | little has established itself among us, not pen ee ee eral as a formal method of entertaining ac- ea ad quaintances, but as a pleasant and Intimate ing. She is a popular ‘son and. two-| WAY of meeting and honoring friends, is so fete of the guests | Charming and so convenient that once came to her site of | @dopted in a home it will not be suffered the table, leaving | © fall into abeyance. For one thing, the two pretty but shy | M&Cessary expense of 5 o'clock tea may be e cou- | Teduced almost to the minimum. The first girls at the other end almost unoccu- pied. So T possessed myself of patience and | CUtlay of teacups and saucers, the copper a chair, and wondered while I waited why | OF the silver kettle, and the rest of the © many of the women who were sipping | @imty and pretty equipage, need not be their tea or absent-mindedly crumbling eee and indeed most people have al- cake on the edge of the table as they chat- | ready in their possession all that they | need with whieh to furnish the low round ted appeared to have something extreme, in some cases almost outre, about them. The ladies In question are usually most conventionally correct in attire, and 1 could find no other explanation than the time of year. At a season when nothing decidedly new is to be ex thous dressmaker doc sees It, to her clients by running the gamut of possible variations of established Some of her experiments have happ: her duty, as she sults: the issue of others is more pictur- esquely weird than are any of the fashion failures that a year are “tried on the dog” by shop window » latter bloom day ané are forgotten in the brilliane: ful fashions: but who us from the dominant s $ ches decadence, goes off into Eecentrl ties of Fashion, erily, nobody. And so it happened thal peering around one side or the other of the great bowl of white Japanese chrysan- themums that filled the middle of the tea table I could watch the approach of Gains- borough hats with such tremendous tilts that they looked likcly to come. sliding down like avalanches, and of Victorian bats with the side flare turned so far over as to become a middle flare, cutting the hat deftly in two. The plain’ swathed neck- band, which might be call till young,” secing that the time is short since and neck frills w tabooed, was carried so high rigorously think of to a sweal blouse ju black cloth one notable , fashtona nothing instance and was so bly plain that one could but the “turde’ et there hung over a_ plain Kirt two broad ribbons in Ro- man colors, that were knotted together just above the hem. This development of the sash upon the tailor gown looks like gaudy reins on a horse, well enough kept otherwi Such little eccentricities belong to Janu- ary. The early importations of next’ sum- S$ muslins have been in the shops for three weeks, but n yet takes them iously. Instead, th smakers keep up their practice on ruffles and flouncing by covering heavy cloth skirts with an orna- mentation of tiny frills that until this sea- son was unthinkable. At the Midsenson, Barring the extremes of the fashions stand at the somewhat as follow The Russian blouse ver, but it has been of the fz body a a midseason present moment more popular than abandoned by many who favor, instead ught-fitting ams showing as possible. The most popular skirt fits tightly around the hips and over a small bustle; below the knees it flares into a deep flounce. The tight-fitting piece may laid in’ tucks from the waist down, or it may be covered with narrow ruiiles. It looks best braided or left piain. The skirt which has the exclusive fashion has three flounces around the back and sides running up to the waist line in front and working after a redingote impression. It is correct to have the skirt lie on the ground, but this degree of rectitude is and bids fair to continue somewhat unusual. Return of the Bustle. The bustle has grown large enough to be seen. It has existed in the form of small and obscure pads, neither useful nor ob- jectionable, for some months; it is emerging from this innocuous sloth, to what violence of activity it is not yet possible to say. The bustle is inevitable with the short French corsets now worn, whigh produce a small waist at the expense of, abnormally large hips. In its present stage of develop- ment it continues the hips. well around. A dress recently worn by ,.young Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney illustrates several facts in current fashions, This costume has an underskirt of red velvet, with a gray cloth overskirt of equal Jength form- ing a redingote which opens in front and rounds away gradually. toward the hem. ‘The overskirt is faced down the front with red satin and is trimmed with bands of sable edged with narrow heavy lace. These bands are put on to simylate p second and third overskirt shaped like the first. The bodice is tight-fitting, with no blouse sug- gestion. It is cut with a guimpe of lace over red velvet, and has a high velvet col- lar band unrelic ved except by little out- standing triangles of velvet at the sides. The sleeves are almost skin tight. The waist is trimmed in front with diagonal bands of lace and fur. There 1s a swathed belt of red velvet, which is drawn up on the left side and finished with a large rosette. With this dress Mrs. Whitney wore a large gray velvet hat, edged with fur and with a gray owl covering the crown. At a Morning Concert. An Englishwoman of title, who has made some stir in New York of late, wore at a morning concert one day this week a dress of smoke-colored cloth, trimmed with five ruffles set on half way between waist and hem. These ruffles made deep V’s in front and sloped up behind. They were very scant, for good dressmakers recognize that fullness in heavy cloth is awkward. The bodice was tucked perpendicularly and turned back from the front in revers of heliotrope silk over a plastron of helio- trope chiffon, strapped across with lace. The bodice bloused a little and was held at the waist by a sash of heliotrope silk with broad ends embroidered with jet and hang- ing to the ground. The tight sleeves were mark of more ted for weeks, the conscien- | on at openings or in | for aj From under a Persian lamb | table, and thus have at for forming a fire, or a hou hand the material household center near the ehold rallying place in a cor- ner of the library or the drawing room. The viands, too, are of the very simplest. A few biscuits, a little thin bread and but- ter, plum cake if you like and a hearty welcome—these are absolutely all which go to make up the needs musts ef afternoon tea. The tea must be of the very best. Fi a- grant Ceylon is exceilent, and So is the fin- est English breakfast tea; so is a fine grade of India tea; so is a good blend of oolong and souch pekoe. . with a dash of orange a making is a perfectly simple The water for it must be freshly from spring or hydrant, and must brought quickly to the boiling point over the fire, or if in the drawing room, over an alcohol lamp. Then, using a te spoonful of tea for a cup, pour the boiling water on the leaves, and let it steep for two or three minutes only. Cream and sugar, or thinly sliced lemon and sugar, requisites, to complete the beverage. If be a pretty girl to make and pour so much the better; but a cup | of 5 o'clock tea can be made by any lady, | while she is entertaining her guests, and | the guests will themselves assist her in handing it around, if she prefer the ab- sence of the maid. When it is generally known that on a cert at 5 o'clock, or every day at 5, friend 1s at home and glad to see those who stop in without formality, it comes to pass that many charming little reunions take place without special preparation, in- | Vitation or announcement. And if ther be in town a stranger to whom you wish tc pay a compliment, if some dear friend is stopping with you, either for a visit or en route to some other place, how y to send about one’s cards, the ordinary visiting cards, with “To meet Mrs. Smith, | or Miss Caraw: ary 10, tea at 5 y Jones, Thursday, Janu: written upon them, and then there may be, if you like, though bh no means of nece: a slightly mo | claborate plan for refreshments. You may have coffee frappe, or chocolate, or an ice, or bon bons, or two kinds of cake, or hot scones, or sandwiches, or even salad. But if you do not care for the time and toil and trouble, the cup of tea and the wafer, or the fairylike slice of bread and butter will serve every purpos An Invitation to tea in olden days meant a hot dish of two, oysters of chicken ple, cold tongue and ham, hot rolls, four kinds of cake, five kinds of preserves, a rich and lavish and generous provision, and a sit- ting down to supper. It still’ means this in some parts of our country, but in the large towns, where a late dinner is the rule, and men are all day long at busines: and women are much rushed in carrying on their society obligations, such an af- fair, even in the modified form of a high tea, is scldom heard of. Instead we have the foreign fashion, now become domestic, of simple edibles, and the cup that cheers, of bright talk, of the touch and go of wit and repartee, the mecting and the parting, which are brief but full of good-fellowship and real camaraderie. So much is going on, there are so many things to do, time is such a whirl, life is so short, that we are forced on every side to consider our limitations, and we find ourselves rested and brightened and buoyed up, both in company and at home by ourselves, by our cup of afternoon tea. ——++ A Problem, Here’s a mathematical problem which the Boston Pcst observer heard a bank mes- senger putting to a man of figures the other day: “A banker found a $10 bill. At home he gave it to his wife, who paid the butcher in settlement of his account. The butcher paid it to the farmer for a calf, and the farmer paid it to the merchant, who in turn paid it to the washerwoman, and she, owing the banker a note of $10, went to tho banker and paid the note. The banke> recognized the bill as the one he had found and which up to that time had paid $50 worth of debt. On a careful examination he found the bill was a counterfeit.” Of course, the problem is, Who lost in the transaction? soe In London, From Life. “I know Ive got to fee the key clerk, waiter, head waiter, porters, boots, reading- room attendant and carriage caller, but I’m eae if I'll buy that for the chamber- FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Rare and Happy Knack of Making Over Old Gowns. Remodeling Last Winter's Skirts and Sleeves—Coats That Are as Good as New. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, January 6, 1898. Nothing is quite so satisfactory as a well made-over gown, and nothing is rarer. This is so truly a winter in which gowns can be fitted to prevailing modes, provided taste and skill are not lacking, that it is worth while giving the subject some time and at- tention. For not money alone is saved by an economical use of materials. One may have more gowns for house and evening af- fairs. About the first of the year one begins to long for something fresh. Usually one’s street gown is provided for, and is satis- factory. If of good and strong material it should be suitable for all occasioas this sea- son and in a condition to remodel for shop- ping and traveling next winter. I am speaking, of course, of the large majority of women who have not legions of gowns, half a dezen for every different occasion. So we may assume that street gowns are well out of the way. This is as it should be, for a tailor-made gown should be re- modeled at home only upon ihe rarest oc- casions. Presuming, then, that we will onty take for making over those of our gowns which are of soft material, or such as may be dyed or cleaned satisfactorily without great expense; We must start with a good cutter and fitter, and some knowledge of our own, to bring about the required result. One of the most important adjuncts to a made- over gown is the paper pattern. For if it is tmade at home one must be used. Remodeling the Skirt. Skirts are much narrower, and it takes only a little ingenuity to adant the fuller skirt of the last few years to the model of today. Once in a while one may be cut ever without taking apart entirely—that attern may be so laid on that the ary fullness may be taken out at the sides, the back gathered into us nar- row a space as the welght of the materi will allow, and the bottom not changed at all. But one must be clever, indeed, to do this, and it depends upon the fullness of the skirt. Just at present skirts are much longer, and to make the old ones touch depends upon the adjustment of the pat- tern to the material on hand. Sleeves seem to be a problem to man women, and to a novice this is inexplicable, as it would appear that such an enorm, amount of material would cut over most bly into a smaller size. Such, how- is not the case, and althong one clever woman of my acquaintance does simply ri her old sleeve, press it and lay the pattern on it somewhat nisher than the wrist of the old model, not every one would find this a Indeed, some dressmakers too, conterd that though th can take out some of the full- ne: they are powerless to greatly alter the shape of an old sleeve. This depends entirely on whether it was very small or rather narrow from the elbow down, and whether it is a material with a pattern in it which must run exactiy up and down. It is quite true that one cannot make the fanciful styles of new sleeves from the old but in many instances they can be much smailer and quite a dif. ferent shape, and long enough to droop over the hand if need be, simply by putting the 1 high up on the old slesves, instead of trying to make the elbow and wrist come in the same place. If you insist upon this the next time you a nfronted with complaint do not make r well, you ma ble to convince your modiste that there is a trick she has not learned. — T! however, is an opti- mistic view to take of her desire to learn your methods. Mints for the Sleeve. Many sleeves this winter are of material to match a vest and collar, with an Eton jacket, or other over-jacket effect of a different material. In fur, for instance, sees velvet sleeves and a Rus of Persian lamb, or a royal vel blouse may have heavy, tucked satin or silk sleeves. Yokes and sleeves white tucked satin, with bodice black and white, have been, mentioned in this column. One woman of ingenulty took the large sleeves of her Persian lamb coat, ripped them out first, and cut them off a lite above the wrists, enough to leave a generous cuff. Then tock the jacket tops of the sleeves to her furrier and emerged soon after in a Per- sian lamb bloused ceat, with fitted back, jeweled belt and silk sleex ith wide cuffs of fur. Her coat ¥ now in the fashion, but it had not been an inexpen- sive affair, although the cost was trifling compared to that of a new garment. No one would have suspected that the bloused, frent of her coat had been a pair of enor- sleeves, and she thus triumphantly y Fashion and escaped the pricks which conscience would have given had s sed wearing a cosily fur sim- ply because it did not conform to the mode of the hour. Stylish Garments. The tight-fitting coats with skirts can be easily made ove: and handsome garments. the changing of the sleeves to more mod- est dimensions—very much more modest, in fact—the addition of a belt of jewels or ribbon or leather where the circle joins the body of the coat, and the facing or trimming of the rather large lapels with lace, silk or something which will hide the fact that the cgat is somewhat tigh‘er than those worn now. The making over of evening gowns is always a simple matter, so little need be said on this subject. | They should be flounced and frilled and the bodice covered with lace, net or some even more brilliant trimming. As for the separate waists which we have worn for the past few years, they may be refurbished year in and year out and no cne will be the wiser. A woman of my acquaintance who was brought up to utilize all her handsome belonging: although the family purse is full, hes worm for three consecutive winters a bodice of rose-colored satin. No one would dream this, for cach winter it has been veiled in a different chiffon or net, which was cut according to the prevailing mode. Thas it Fas been consecutively green, black and circular ecru, and I confidently expect to see it many winters more, always a different hue. MABEL BOYD. a Clever Sinmese Girls. From London Society. The Gancing girls of Siam are remarkable for the agility and grace of their move- ments. Th2 cup dance is the prettiest and most poetic of all. A row of young girls, with a tier of cup; on their heads, take their places in the middle of the great hail. A burst of joycus music follows. On hear- ing this they simultaneously, with military precision, kneel down, fold their hands and bow their heads until their foreheads al- most touch the polished marble floor, keep- ing the cups steadily on their heads by some marvelous jerk of the neck. Then, suddenly springing to their feet, they de- scribe a succession of rapid and intricate circles, keeping time to the music with their arms, head and feet. Next the music swells into a rapturous tumult. The dancers raise their delicate feet, curve their arms and fingers in almogt impossible flexures, sway to and fro like’ withes of willow, agitate all the muscles of the body like the flutter of leaves in the soft evening breeze, but still keep the cups on their heads. The dancing girls of Bangkok are always exercising in the royal gymnasium. Their ages vary from five to twenty years. The curious and subtle feat of picking up a bit of straw with the eyelids can be learned only by the youngest of them, who are made to practice it in order to render them flexible in every part of the body. There are two long rows of benches, one a little higher than the other. On the lower is a row of little girls and on the upper bench are laid the polished bits of straw. At the sound of the drum the little girls all to- gether bend back the head and neck until they touch the bits of straw, which, with wonderful dexterity, they secure between the corners of their eyelids. eee is almost unknown in Japan. It is that mothers do not even kiss their children in the land of the mikado. ——===—~ A pure cream of tartar powder.” “Pure” and “Sure.” It is pure and wholesome. It is always sure. No spoiled dough to be thrown away. It is not a secret nostrum. Its composition is stated on every tin. Only a rounded spoonful is re quired, not a Aeaping spoonful. * Cleveland Raking Powder Co.,New Yorty. Successor to Cleveland Brothers, —— = = =. FASHIONS IN FUR WRAPS The Collars and Capes That Are Popular This Season. Wise Hints of the Latest Fancies by an Autho y—Materials and Length “Furs are this winter,” being worn more than ever said a fur dealer the other day. “In fact, I think furs will grow in favor every year. Their warmth and be- comingness endear them to every woman's heart. Sealskin, mink, Russian sable, Per- sian chinchilla and ermine are about equal- ly divided as to their popularity, with per- haps a trifle In favor of Persian. The Per- sian and Russian sable blou! are x= tremely popular, and deservedly so for they are indeed beautiful. For calling the glebe fur wrap, with chiffon and ribbon trimmings,with and without long ends, and the royal er- mine cape, bore with or pur- ple velvet, are the favorites. The royal er- mine is the fur used almost exclusively by A Queen Victoria and probably owes its popularity on this side of the water to this fact. Collarettes this season are made of every imaginable fur, and with the combination of two and sometimes three different kinds. The cor- rect length is from ten to twelve inche: They are being made very full and have handsome Persian and Dresden silk linings, Capes and Muffs. evening wear, capes of , trimmed with white fox and lined with light colored silks or satins, are in vogue. They are made twen- -two inches long, which is @ sersible, Mas popular fad, "s fur col- nderbilt muff or opera or beautiful brocade as very Muffs are made to match milad larette, cape or coat. The V is one of the season's fancies, and is made of rich dark mink and shaped long and narrow so as to cover the hands well, and yet not be bundlesome. Fur trimmings are used on rich broadcloths and give an ele- ant finish costume. Sealskins will always be popular with the rich, for the genuine sealskin comes high and there are no indications that prices will ever be low= ered. Perhaps it is for this reason that sealskin reigns supreme. Blue fox makes a very effective neck scarf and is being used a great deal. The gr at popularity of furs can be summed up in this one sen= tence. A woman of thirty-five to forty who wears furs to harmonize with the col- or of her hair, skin and eyes will pass for many years younger, and as more women realize this fact more furs will be worn,” AFGHAN Wo: Caste Mothers Have a Lonely EN. High From the Phil If there are any women in the w have a right to dic of er 1d who ui, it is those poor creatures of Afghanistan, the upp lass dames, They spend their days doing abso- luiely nothing, for they disdain sewing, cooking and general household dutics; they leave the care of their children to slaves, and they can neither read nor writ nerally in a rich house there is ene chief slave, a sort of housekeeper, rather a grand person, whom it ts always wise to conciliate if you intend havirg many deal- ings with that establishment. In summer she is always dresscd in purest white; in winter, velvets and brocades are not be- yond her reach. She is generally an elderly person, with considerable Influence geod deal of authority. Then there is another who is a sort of maid to the lady of the house; she is anoth- er person with whom it {s not wise to quar- she {s always very much in evidence, and a * toilet, as also for her master's, It ts the wife's special duty and privilege, however, when the things are prepared, to Wait upon her husband, when he is dresse ing, to pour the water over his hands and feet, during his religious washings, to spread his prayer carpet, to put his favor= ite dish befcre him, and go on. It is difficult to appreciate the exact post- tien of these Afghan women until one sees the way in which mothers are treated by their sons. They may nurse them when they are sick, tend them when they are young, but let the boys grow to be cleven or twelve years old, and you will hear them tell their mother to “chup sho” (shut up), scnd them to fetch their caps and expect to be addressed by the mothers as “agha gul,” or “agha jon,” which means, “my precious master,” “master dear.” Cabul mothers seldom have much affec- tion for their children or their children for them; they do not nurse them as babies, and their babyhood is a particularly leng one, for they are very backward. They be- long to tneir nurses more than to their mothers till they are two and a half years old, and after that it is their father who netices them and not their mothe: soe A Charitable Frem Life. “What is your idea of a cynic?” “Well—a cynic is a humorist who has had the misfortune to be born with his emile a trifle on one side. few. circuses he’s so near-sighted ht just like throwin’ money '—Chicago News. ————— “Passing in His Checks.” From Life. ee — seteh pert