Evening Star Newspaper, December 25, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, DECEMBER = 25, 1897-24 PAGES, HOUSEHOLD HINTS Domestic Economy TaughtinaGraded Course. RIGHT WAY 10 SEW ON BUTTONS Caraway-Seed Cake is an “Old” New Year Dainty. THINGS WORTH KNOWING The science of “household economics” is ferging ahcad, and now a graded cou! in cocking is offered in twenty of the grammar schools in New York city, while all the rest are clamoring for the same Frivilege. The department of education ha endeavcred to make this course as broad | as possible, the object being to combine the theery with the practice of this art, as the wives of the people will find it. The course of study will cover the last year and a Lalf of the grammar course, and will include the study of fuels, and the starchy foods, the making of bread, the explanation of the yeast plant, the com- pcsition of tea and coffee, how to prepare them, their effects on the system, the al- bumincids (eggs, milk, cheese, peas, bes and meats), simple menus, soup stocks, salads, vegetables and desserts; a study of the germ theory applied to mold and de- cay in cheese, bread, fruit and the souring ot mil Then comes the physiology of the alimentary canal and the digestive functions, cooking for invalids, infant leeding, care of the babies’ bottle, and the Pasteurization of milk. The grand finale ef this cour: kes the form of a “goo plain dinner,” when cream of tomato soup, rolled flank ‘steak with brown gravy, spin- ach, potatoes, lettuce, caramel custard, with appropriate table setting, and a dec- cration crowns the whole. During the whole course the elements of fire, air and water are thoroughly expounded, while simplicity, economy and cleanliness in li ing are inculcated. With this as an enter- ing wedge, the outlook for comfortable, well-cared-for homes in the next genera~ tion, if not in this, is certainly assuring. h lined with mauve taffeta and trimmed wath rows of white silk braid graduating in width covers the yoke of the blouse and falls over the shoulders. Thts collar is bor- dered with chinchilla like the devant of the petticoat. EUROPEAN FASHIONS Elegance Posing in the Guise of Quiet Simplicity. Belt and Sash. Another novel feature of this gown is the belt and sash of mauve line. The belt is folded and closes at the side under a frill of the same matcrial. The very full sash ends with a flounce of mousseline meus “Never too old to 1 is the motto that the fertunate po: r of a wide- awake child must always be ready to sub- scribe to. A*small lad coming home trom GRAY 18 STILL IN HIGH FAVOR oes ; kindergarten a few days ago, where he and is trimmed with three rows of in: had been initiated into the mystcries at- tion. Three short strips of insertion also] ter.ding the sewing on of buitons, “ decorate the back where the sash ends are} “Mother, do you know how to put my Stylish Blouses That Are in Contrast | attached. betters Gui by scale zea WWell aot exactly) Plaids and plaid effects are in great evi- | PY Tule,” was tae amused response, “Never c : : iaind, I'M teach you!” said this magnani- to the Skirts. dence ywhere, and will continue to be} mous epitome of perior advantage favored, since some forerunne rst you double your thread and make models show these popular designs which | a knot. Then you put the needle througa dly the by the tall woman and hort one. © accepte reluctantly by g the outside of the cloth, which leaves the knot covered by the button, and if you PLAIDS AND PLAID EFFECTS jacking even that long, “‘pettycoat,” without which, as the acute'/Mr. Bepys observed, “nobody could take them for women.” It is not strange that the reform received a blow then and there from which it stag- gered along unsteadity, upheld only by the Occasional enthusiasm of ‘a business-like prophet, or a rainy-day club, or a woman's congress (where it crept in with other more popular and less necéssary reforms) * until about three years ago.. Then, without any seeming movement, without declaring itself at all, suddenly, like }ight at the cre- ative fiat, it was. And it was, not through any tempest of organization or any whirl- -wind of enthusiasm, but through the still, small Wheels of the bicycle; bringing forth the one thing that was necessary and had been lacking all the time—reason enough. ————-++. Earned His Annual Treat. From the Detroit Free Press. “As long as my employer lives,” said the big workman, “I’m sure of just as fine a dinner for Thanksgiving as the market af- fords.” “Invited to his house?" “No, of course not. He has too much sense to set me down to a table with a lot of the upper crust. I'd feel like crawling under the board, and could no more eat than if I was gagged and handcuffed. He sends the stuff to the house, and we never Set it all closed out much before Christ- ee “Does he treat all his men that way?” “Couldn’t afford it. He has hundreds of tkem, you know. But me and him had what he calls an escapade a good many years ago. You know, I was a coachman for old Grinder. He had a daughter, the Prettiest woman in the state, and with spirit enough to lead an army. My present boss fell in love with her and she with him. Grinder fairly kicked the roof off the house, and told me to do the same with the young boss if I ever caught him on the premises. But, to begin with, I’d do any- thing on earth for my young mistres: ‘Then I was in love with her maid, and she told me mighty plain that if I took sides with old Grinder against his daughter I'd have to go away from home to do my courtin’. It was a warm Thanksgiving day when the young folks planned to elope. The mistress wanted me to drive them, but I told her, in a meanin’ way like, that 1 better drive the old gentleman when he took up the chase. She saw the point, and told me not to hurt him serious. “Sure enough, when Grinder heard the girl had slipped away after dinner, he was a cyclone. Away we went in a light buggy with a fast horse. On the creek-bottom road I managed an upset, and dragged him through slush and mud for a quarter of a mile. He was mad enough to murder some one, but he was too proud to own he was beaten, so he forgave the young folks and set the boss up in business.” SS A Great Bird. Frem Tit-Bits The champion parrot, named Jacob, lately exhibited by Mr. Grant Ridley in a house in the Holloway réad, London, brings in £300 every year. Mr. Ridley has been of- ) for him, but he is worth more This wonderful bird has per- fect command over 4,000 words, and never puts a sentence together incorrectly; he can also talk three languages and ten dia- Also every weman who aspires to being | want the button to be loose, so 1 can but- fashionably clad in the coming season must | ten it easy, you put a pin cr the point of aaa I There are round your scissors on the button and sew you Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. sq yokes and oblong yokes, and all are | thread over times each Ww: becomin Se And who thor FRANKFORT-O: IAIN, December 14. One lovely y poplin for out- | knew from perience all Mme. la Mode is pleased just now to dis- door wear in ¢ pa exatuntena was to kno ing on button > = re 5 > guise of | =™MPle elesnce. 2 sl is plain, eck eeepted this axiom of button se Play the richest elegance under the guise of | al bandlce Genes) the snen: fing) fig ithe lips, of sender voullee ana simplicity, our model bears proof. of poplin ele in the shoulder a ‘ in, “Never too oid ii m seams and its fulln n American lady of i 1 wscaithe aua¥l sachik positiows, auc wey cece mito .® Delt Oe AOledss WA TG a and Its - Bae ae articular in. | PCR. closing under a graceful r¢ traditional ; ail for a it will therefore be of particular in- | OMe ae Sitable ec a deep New Year dessert for some- terest to our ir American readet pe, of white silk done into clusters of | thing iced. An ious ice taste in dress is unquestionable. narrow tucks and bordered with b is plu beit a little trying The gown still adheres to the favoritism autiful emt At sola owe a chocolate ice steht beh Soot the whole front of | cream, ice cream mix- for gray, which has justly outlived ‘several along the back. . readiness a scani three- seasons and still shows no signs of declin- la of white tucked quart of a pound of m 1 fruit—candied ing. pordered with beaver, as ai cherric ied plums or pears cut in wrists of th long, tight sleeve The skirt is composed of an overskirt of ss and currants boiled a to plump, or even crumbled momen ate ete aneditee auve taffeta ing Con ts. Dp silver-gray cloth, lined with mauve taffeta : SueEn eS COmiEnnts fruit cake er some of the plum pudding and opening in front over a petticoat of independent blouses and bo¢ TecWovers pone white cloth edged at the hem with chin- arded for elegant wear by ultra- | schino over the f and set ay: chilla. The decoration of the overskirt con. les, blouses are still worn in con- | covered dish until softened. ‘Then, drain sists of a border of white Maline insertion. ng or lighter colors than the skirt, ie A Bae wach ie GED apa from under which the ¢ cloth is cut| but they must correspend with it, as, for place in bricks or a melon mold and peck away, So as to disclose the mauve silk un- |; <4, Boa a : Bae eee | place in | n mold and pack in derneath. The insertions are stitched on | '"Stance, in a demf-toilet which consists | ice and salt to harden. Serve with whipped jof a skirt of ro e taffeta, cut tight ever the hips and finishing below the knees in a deep flounc me silk, whic is attached in line, low i: am, aschino. h narrow white silk soutache braid. The Sweetened cloth blocks formed by the lace decorations are embroidered with gray silk, chenille and strass, and flavored w h Mar- Again the oblong raway or New Year se Sie Ee anaen ear, | cakes, residuary legacy of our Dutch fore- A Modified Blouse. FER FATA PORT Eee neni tate | mothers, ate: makiie thelsrappexeanosi The bodice, though blouse shaped, does|soie. The blouse is-of dahli ee eens shone ewille He pec eae fae not show the baggy arrangement of the | ¢ i with royal blue mousseline de soie, a of the plump, oily kook o ute doughnut, floating upward from Knicker- aula 2 i Sie “Ison placed on very full, particularly over the | jOUgnUt Bs able Vest Ro RCIAS Eetmeiee Blouse ibe Teese fale) Oe og ce pecan ely, forming | Pocker Kitchens, ‘gives unmistakable evi- front of gray cloth is attached to a yoke| a ‘Grooping puff at the shoulder. dence that New Year is at hand. and is very elaborate with insertions and| ‘The round yoke and standing collar are | _ 1 New York New Year is always a great . - ‘ : 4 oceasion, although the manner ef celebrat- embroidery running vertically, and giving ce embroidered with gold thread er aaa che Pane Say ren ing it has changed since the appearance of added length to the spangles, and an odd garniture Washington, holding a formal reception waist. The tasty jabot consists of wide urosed Cf ICH andigold embroidered mar- |) norestexpresgedathe: hapentine win ice Maline lace matching the insertion and | TW bands, qoucl ate put oni to) form Tat change might take place in the manners plaited mauve mousseline de Gee cas ee POG, Stich | Sage cantatas of the city the obecvvadce OF The very high plain standing collar of | #80 encircle the yoke. New Year might ne r be gi < ; wore af 3 en up. Al- gray cloth has a band of insertion and a} Ths model suggests many acceptable the custom of making New Year though y n { smbinations—as a black skirt with a red ; si neck full of Maline lace at the back. The | C?™ = st a red | cails has latterly fallen into disuse, recep- sh of white cloth follow the fashion-| 0%, blue blouse, veiled with black mous- | tions in clubs and drawing roomie wee natn line or net, and the present more of fash- fon recommends itself to the practical wo man n only for its simplicity and be- comingness, but for the possibility of mak- ing over old gowns equal to new ones. able fancy for ves of different color, y harmonizing with the gown. Maline inse tion is sewn on the sleeves in diagonal lines, surrounding the arm and crossing each other so as to form carreaux of white cloth. The insertion like that on the skirt shows the mauve lining underneath, and is likewise attached with white soutache braid. A narrow flaring cuff filled out with a flounce of Maline lace finishes the wrist, and a very original wide collar of white in favor, while many country ho cpen their hospitable doors to large 1 of guests who gaily dance the old y and the new one in. A modern New Year seed cake takes the place of its forbe yeast, is made as follows: Beat to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar; add three tablespoonfuls of water, two eggs beaten and two tablespoonfuls of caraway ft together several times, two cup- flour and two even teaspoonfuis baking powder, and stir into the mixture, If not stiff enough to work on the board, add a little more sifted flour; dredge lightly with fiour, and roll extremely thin until it is nearly as thin as a wafer. Cut into oval If de- that r, lightened by THE UNDERWEAR PROBLEM. Longevity is not an attribute of savage e. But the faddist draws !lustration civilized as well as from barbaric c “Behold,” he say: the oudding maids that go lo bare-armed and bareheaded to party and rout; they are net more specially the victims of ne i ism, pnéumo- than they who never r .” We must credit the with ingenuity in kis presentation » yet we submit that he begs the from stoms. and The English Fad of Tabooing Thicker Clothes for Winter. “the grand dames prinkled with ugar, and then aking, With an egg, and granulated . From the Chicago Inter-Ocean. ‘The British maid or matron, and in a less degree the his or her British boy or man, is agitating mind in soluticn of what the alls the ¢ t underwear ferous person, the fad- An appetizing dish for luncheon or supper, that requires neither great outlay of ume, strength nor muney, is salmon loaf. To oné can of salmon allow four crackers rolled . g aloud in the coterles and is For, in the first place, it is to be | fine, two well-beaten eggs, one-half c pful a as Se aLea Ge ane ‘red your grand dame and her bud- | sweet milk, butter the size of an egg, salt ing men, women an : : aushter do not brave the chill air in| and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly, put Ganger of chenging their clothing with the | evening d under their guuzy tobes are | in eeodeed cans and steam one Rote, He will not so much as uel's hair to his raiment ; the light garb of sum- ient unto him when th is below freezing | the softest and warmest of garments, thick end fleecy, und downy wraps cover thcir forms in the brief y ge from the door of the house to the carriage, and from the car- to the portals of the temple of p! It is in highly heated rooms that their And on their return A plain rice pudding recipe deserves a place on every family’s bill of fare. Wash well and put half a pound of rice in a saucepan with two quaris of milk, a pinch of salt, ten ounces of sugar and a little butter. Boil slow i jonally until rap! ously ex- massaged, groomed and | thoroughly done, put in deep dishes with a Wie eked tow | Pat to bed:tnie: race! glow otinem aad thes | nie more outeron thelsuctaee audlteke is ae! ep the sleep of the blessed. The British | light brown. © and snow, cs not clothe 'y is famed for longevity because amous for careful living. In turning a strap, belt, glove finger or Sot het on ak Whittaker’s Almanac for the current year | narrow bag that has had its seams run t pee nee ae gives a list of 161 peers, barorets and ee upon the wrong side, a bit of Yankee in- aa, Soaks | aa sare ie = pees lors who have passed their eightieth | genuity calls for a whalebone, and catch- Lendon or Chicago, “clad on,” as Tenny- ing it in one end of the fabric pushes it along through the narrow aperture until the whole is reversed. If the bishops and judges of like age tak into account the list of names would exceed two hundred. The causes of lengevity are good food, cleanness of per- son, moderate out-door exercise, activity of mind, equanimity of temper and cloth- son has it of Lady God not . “in purity” and ng else, would need to have a face is all cheek. But leaving the ethic: h does not trouble the faddist, and go- that An excellent suggestion for the baby who dreads its bath and screams when put into lects. Whatever language or dialect you address kim in, he will reply to in the same tongue. Eighty pounds was paid by the Archduchess Stephanie, widow of the Austrian Crown Printe, for a parrot which could recite the P; noster in different languages. When th rehduchess got the wonderful bird heme“ it could not utter a word, and the merc nt Who sold it was r ted for fraud. Ut turned out that he was a ventriloquist, and he had taught the bird to open his moyth and ppear to be talking while his ventriloquism lasted. The Sultan of Turkey pat@ £54'for a gray par- d speak two hundred and fifty Boutonn From the Phita ers for Ladies. phia Ledgere Boutonnie: for ladies’ wear should be in different :orms. One ‘hice way is as a& spray or ere t,,as is the fashion in English and Ge man society. balls and for receptions, For outdoors I should make something more compact. The make-up of the boutonniere for the lady depends upon the dress she is to wear and upon her complexion—thus, for a dark toilet light flowers are used, and for a This is for light toilet dark flowers; for pure white an arrargement of dark red roses is y. pretty. Violets may be worn with any col- or but green, but never more than fifty at a Jt does not look nice to see going about like animated flower ng Baby ribbon s in a fe be the sam Boutonnie! with ould only be used es, and then the color shouid as the flowers. in. spray form are made one big ro to start with, then a medium sized, a small one and a bud; plen- ty of maidenhair fern and asparagus fin- ish it. It resis with the person who is to wear it as to the size it should be, bui should not have more than three or four flowers in any ca: The French Peasant. Frem the Contemporary Reylew. The French peasant has an independent means of e3 He owns the soll he tills. If he employs laborers they, at least, will own a house and garden, and hope to own a plot. The English villager is either @ small tradesman or a laborer. A garden which he cultivates but does not own is, a rule, the extent of his possessions. There are two classes in an English vil- lage, and these may be subdivided into various religious sects. There is only one ciass in our French commune—a fact which has g maierial bearing upon the social economy of the community. Every inhap- itant of the commune is a proprietor of something, and all are bent on saving, yet, with all their individualism, they combine for common and mutual interest, This is illustrated by the organization of the syn dicate for buying at wholesale prices. They unite for the cultivation of the soil, lend- S ing each other ho and making up teams. Every commune has a field, which is common property, and where, on pay- ment of a trifling animals graze. Af- ter the harvest all the fields become com- mon property, and the gros betail and the her betail are allowed to roam at large. cee A Christmas Letter. Frem the Christmas Puck. Dearest Phyllis: Pray remember when you're making up the list of your presents for December (unless I am to be missed) that I've siippers, picture brackets, smok- ing sets of various types, half a dozen smoking jackets, thirty-seven meerschaum pipes, twenty patent “kid glove menders,’ collar boxes py the score, of embroidered silk suspenders forty-eleven pairs or more! That each year since I was twenty I’ve re- ceived a paper weight, have penwipers, ink stand plenty, paper ,cutters—twenty-eight That I’ve Browning and Longfellow by the i t 5 bathtub is to cover the bath with a straight to the physics upen which he | ing suitable to the season. the . AA rests his cas#, the truth is that the Indian | 7? vs of low diet, scant clothing ana | blssket, put the baby on lt, and slowly REL ty. | URWashed flesh as conducives to health are | lower it into the water. who is all vigor and “all face” at twent gcne by, and it Is in vain that the English faddlsts’ strive to call them back. He EG ener Cate 1 Ge Ge 9 ssible thing for cleaning tan and = = russet shoes. z —_—_—_ THE GREAT DRESS REFORMER. two, at is apt to be all dead forty-f From Leslie's Weekly. How Woman's Garments Have Con- formed to the Love of the Wheel, Helen Watterson Moody in Scribner's, It is hardly to be supposed that the dress- reforming spirit is a product of modern times, since we find the necessity of it en- joined upon women as far back as Bible times; but for present purposes it is suffi- cient to go back to forty years ago, when the women of this country began to look timidly and tentatively (much as the little fish in the fable looked at the fly on the hook) toward the mere possibility of such changes in the garments they wore as should conform them, in some degree at least, to the demands of beauty or health or convenience or adequate bodily protec- tion. A few women, looking at the mat- ter quite simply and directly, and conceiv- ing, therefore, that dress reform was a matter solely of individual and private concern, shut themselves into the privacy of their homes, snipped and sheared and stitched industriously, coming forth at last to shock the gaze of a waiting world with a curious hybrid garment, neither male nor female, lacking the stern practicability of the masculine garb, lacking also all the sweet appeal of the flowing feminine line, Showman—“This yourg lady has never heard a profane word in the whole course of her existence—” Jack Tarr—“Ain't she? Well, I'll gi —*(), ete., ete. How's that for a start Showman—“I may remark that the young !ady is stone deaf.” her a little treat, then. ***1E1)—— hundreds—every kind; Shakespeare—black and blue and yellow;, Milten till I'm nearly blind! So there's just one present only that I'm wuuting in this year of my bachelorship so lonely—that’s yourself, my Phyllis dear. —— The Value of Happiness. From Scribner's. I believe-it is Mr. Stevenson who says that the duty of being happy is the most underrated duty in the world. And in spite cf all we may wish or assert to the con- trary, there is indubitablé evidénce that happiness, up to date, at least, has a basis in physical well beiig. I'suppose one of the reasons why the reformers of the earth have not been notably delightful persons to live with is because they were either tco busy or too tired to be happy. And yet a happy man, and especially a happy woman, is a radiating focus of reform, for such a Ferson possesses that gentle and diffused persuasiveness which leads us into willing good endeavor, simply because it displays to us the good taste of enjoying fine be- havior. r Prima Facie. From the Cincinnati Enquirer. “The new boarder,” said the Sweetest Girl, “must know a good deal about wo- men. He has been married four times.” “& man who was fool enough for that,” sald the Savage Bachelor, “never knew anything abcut women, That's plain.” FOR FROSTY DAYS > Gowns Designed to Be Warm as Well as Stylish. COMBINATIONS OF CLOTH AND FOR The Mid-Winter Novelty is inthe Cut of the Skirt. 2 eS SKATING AND WHEELING (Copyright, 1897, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, December 24, 1897. OR THE CHEIST- mas sicighing, for the “pung” parties that make so much of the sport of holiday week wherever there are lively giris: for the drives and the out - of - door merry- making that brate the frosty days of the new year, the all-fur dr: woman's favorite if she can compass its t this, the principal novel- sumptuous combination lond:ke” yeliow with fur. This id ted in a costume ordered by o Baylies’ exclusive thirty-five, carried out in golde set off with a border of sabl skirt from the hem to the knees. The ice is made entirely of . and has flowing collar, small basques at the wal cele- possession. Ne ty for January of“ vering the and fiat epaulets on the sh , there covering the tops of cloth sleeves. A iarge flat collar of Venet is put on with a yoke effect. * scheme is developed in a narrow v n yel- low silk pouching in front and disappear- ing under a folded waist belt of the same mat = For a Christmas Party. Another New Year novelty for walking or driving is a beautifully fashioned prin- , the original of which was im- poried by one of the best-dressed women in New York for a Christmas house party up the Hudson. The proper color for the new gown is a dark leaf green, although, in copying. garnet or crimson would te lowable, especially for quite young women. The novel “abbess” blue, which is as light as military blue, but softer, wouid answer famously. It would be my ‘choice, next to green. The dress, which musi be perfectly cut to get any approuch to the graceful ef- fect of the mouel, is made to close from shoulder to hem on the left side, with an ecging of sable. The success of it depends wholly on its chic lines, assisted by tic and elaborate braiding. In the original, scroll designs in black silk are carried out on the shoulders and over the front of the bodice in a triangle, then following the fur to the ground and circling the skirt hand- semely. The straight clerical collar has a flure of sable rising above it on the left side. A large muff of sable fur with dark green ribbon bows and a toque in green With drooping feathers are the necessary ace ories. it remains to say that the sleeves are really tight and that the skirt, yhich is rather Scant, outlining the figure, lies the veriest trifle on the ground behind. Flounces on the Skirt. In the making of cloth dresses for any sort of out-docr use or function, the mid- winter novelty is in the cut of the skirt. Every skirt that lays any claim to ranking as “up-to-date” must have a flounce cut on the round and looking as if it were full, yet showing no gathers. The little wo- man, who is “just as high as my heart,” at five feet or thereabouts, must have hers on the back of her skirt only, starting at the sides and rounding up behind. Other wo- men may venture on three inches across the front, six Inches, nine inches, accord- ing to stature. . in line with the complete triumph of the flounces is skirt doubling. Double or even triple skirts have ruled for some time in dancmg costumes, but it is only within a week or two that they have appeared in cicth and on the streets, instead of in shop windows. The handsomest double- costume I have seen was worn by Harry Paine Whitney on a recent occasion. It was of brown tweed checked with blue, and suggested the directoire period, with its deep collar and its rover vest cut in one wi h the revers and made of white kid. que was tabbed and decorated with uttons. The upper part of the two was scant, like the lower, and came about eight inches of the bottom of the gown. Both skirts were plain and were admirably draped and fitted. Still the Rage. The Russian blouse, which will continue rampant for some months, ts probably the favorite wear with winter walking gowns. Nothing novel {s possible at this date in a Russian blouse, but I have seen within the week two that, without novelty, are worth talking about. One had a Chartreuse green cloth skirt with blouse of green velvet, dec- orated over every inch of its surface with braiding in black and silver. Deep revers, cuffs and muff were of ermine. There were high lace frills at the throat, and the waist firish was a belt made in sections of en- graved dull steel, inlaid with cut steel and joined with large cut steel medallions. With this costume, which was worn at a mcrning concert, belonged a gray felt hat with two long silver gray ostrich feathers clinging to either side. In front was a gray and white bird with an osprey. The other blouse belonged to Miss Mc- Allister, daughter of the late Ward. The skirt appertaining to it was of the finest green Venetian cloth, striped with black livres. The skirt was plain, with rows of stitching for its sole relief. The blouse was of black velvet, with muff, flaring collars and revers of chinchilla and with a belt of turquoises and emeralds. The muff lining, as well as that of the blouse, was of an odd color, reminding one of a turquoise seen through sea water. Skating Costames. The cozy “coatee” is used almost as much as the blouse with street dresses. Among the spectators at a skating exhibi- tion at Tuxedo a few days ago was a-hand- scme woman, who wore one of chinchilla, combined with a skirt of gray cloth, on which were set appliques of darker velvet curving upward to the back. The toque 1 | of New provoking dressmakers are in the neighborhood is a most uncertain and sport; nevertheless, the criginating ice dresses that are at once novel and attractive. One worn at Tuxedo was of deep crimson cloth edged with sable fur. The sleeves and yoke were minutely tucked and neck and wrists were protected by fur bands. A smart toque was in evi- dence, with masses of wings shading from white to black and completely overshadow- ing the black velvet foundation. Of Green Velvet. A second skating dress, which des- tined, the gods of Ice and snow permitting, to make its debut at a New Year house party on Long Island, is of dark green vel- vet aderned with bands of white cloth and rows of dark green chenille. The bodice has a white cloth yoke studded with tur- quoises and emeralds. Fo crown this gown is a small toque with two very broad green and white quills sweeping round the left side; the arrangement sounds simple, and is so, but the effect is new and daring. Though skaters claim the field, bicyclists have not abandoned it and frocks for win- ter wheeling are designed every week. The newest are considerably longer than those is worn last summer, and the skirts, as a rule, are not divided, but are made with saddle plaits, simply. H checked twecds are the best liked materials, cut with the Norfolk jacket and worn over blou: of bright flannels, elaboraiely braided. A woman of fashion who wheels every when the city streets are not icy kes herself = s in a trun Per-ian lam’ n a couble colar and br woman wheels in a costly and has a large sable muff fas handle s ELLE a AMERICAN WASTEFU A Noted Author Criticises an Aston- ing Trait of a Great People. From the Chicago Record. The Rey. John Watson (lan Maclaren) comes from a land of thrift. The Scotch, by the very necessity of their situation and ESS. surroundings, are obliged to be with results that ire apparent to all who are familiar with Scotch charac The pre lity and wastefulness of 4 ans m to nave impressed Mr. Watson. He $ them: “If one were placed in a witness box he | might be obliged to declare that they were distinctly thrifts An American flings : with gorgeous prod- igality. e are when a hard- bitten, poverty-stricken Scot cherishes a bitter grudge his more friendly cousin. It is when he follows him into a continental hotel and fin the la despise his poor vails after the royal largesse they have just received. We can only stand aside and wonder at our kins- man who gets his money so easily, who holds it so lightly, who spends it so lav- ishly—a man sur princely habit and far removed above thought of aving. And yei it may be allowed us to hake our heads and have some misgiv- Ings as to whether this prodigality is for the good of individual character and the firm upbuilding of a people. Is the osten- tatious waste of food in hotels wholesome or justifiable, where the menu is bewilder- ing in variety and the portions supplied beyond all necessity, and mor taken away than is used? Does it conduce to ability and self-restraint to be quite indifferent about tomorrow and to reserve nothing of today’s earnings? Have not the farmers traded recklessly on the vir- gin resources of the land? Have not the ferests been improvidently cut down? Is there not everywhere a certain want of prudence and management which cannot in the long run minister to moral strength or ev to mate! wealth? If it be true, as is contended, that every great empire has been built up on thrift, this means that the homeliest of virtues does not end in the accumulation ef money, but results in the creation of manhood. | And the best friends of America, therefore, de- e that amid all her prosperity she shall not fall away into improvidence and lux- ury, but ever retain and cultivate that habit of simple and severe living which Ww ‘hown by her Puritan fathers.” This reference to the Puritan fathers Suggests to the mind the difference between the American of the present and of former generations. For Americans were not al- wasteful. The foundations of the re- public were laid by men who were known for their frugality and small economies. It is only since the civil war that this tendency to conspicuous extravagance which Mr. Watson notes has appeared as a distinctive trait of American character. Habits of wastefulness are not conducive to the best development of a people. Thrift and frugality are qualities essenti highest citizenship, and the nation t does not develop them is untrue to itself. The extravagance which Mr. Watson not is not confined to the rich, but is preva- lent among those who might be glad to ve if assured of safe depositories fi eir_ small sums. No nation on. earth wouid benefit so much by the establishment of postal savings banks as the United States. In no country are these institu- tions so badly needed for their influence in inculcating in the people the habits of thrift and frugality that characterized the typical American of preceding generations. -2e--- Scotch Tartans. From the London Standard. The genuine tartans are known and numbered, and, although doubts have been cast on the dates of their origin, are of undeniable antiquity. The Duke of Ar- gyll, who adds .the prestige of a scholar to the authority of a great Highland chief, has traced certain heresies to an article in the “Scots’ Magazine” of last century. The writer would have it that the tartan was a child of the elghteenth century, al- though Marvell's fine Horatian ode makes mention of the Scot cowering behind his parti-colored plaid, and, though what the poet wrote is no more evidence than what the soldier said, the epithet comes as near to saying “tartan” as the exigencies of meter permit. Plainly,. the material was accepted as distinctively Scotch by the secretary of the general who had ifivaded the north and defeated the Scots at Dun- bar. Another theory, for which more is to be said, fixes the first appearance of tar- tan at 1645, the date of the battle of Kil- syth; by Hume,in his “History of Scotland,’ has it that “in Argyll and the Hebrides, efore the middle of the fifteenth century, rtan was manufactured of one or two colours for the poor, more varied for the rich.” Another annalist, who wrote before 1590, had noted the delight of the High- landers in marbled cloth and their prefer- ence for purple and blue. Again, the Duke | hand, to sign for all the baggage and ex. ‘**A Merry-Thought ”’ Try a chicken potpie made with Cleveland’s : Baking Powder = = | of St. Albans has in his possession a ecat trin 1 w.th royal Stuart tartan Wlich Charles 11 wore at his wedding. In 1661 the acts of parliament of Scotland had mentioned tartan us a quite familiar com- modity, which sold at 30 shillings an ell. And upon ail accounts the Highiand clans were wearing their al patterns well before 1600, Broadiy speaking, tarians may be divided, as the Duke of Argyll distin- |guishes them, into red and green. The | Ca , of green and blue, is perhaps the best Known insiance of the latter, | while the red is to be seen exemplifie in the favorite royal Stuart and in the kilt of the Cameron Highlanders. Lord Archibald Campbe | somewher: meterials of the old dy: Blaeberry was used for making scarlet, hyacinth for red, alder for black, willow for flesh color, and Logan has recor¢ iS approval of a mix- ture of bullock blood and lime. SLE quotes the From Tit-Biy, The free-from- and ease-taking old bachelor, who in his momentary lapse of wisdom contemplates matrimony, should at the same time reflect on th mote but contingent po: of his having to some time sleep with a baby should he marry. Y. of experience of this martyr- dcm make me fel it to be my duty to set ferth the misery arising from a contin- gency of this kind. The baby, if he happen to be a lusty littie fellow of eight or ten months, will decline to stay covered, and will also de- cline to allow you to keep yourself cov- ered. He indic his wishes in this diree- tion by Keeping his little pink h KO- jing all night, a good part cf the time cn | your back, He will also insist on lying “end “eat-a-cornere any other position, but changes each after | & few niinutes’ sleep. His infantile needs j Will bezin to manifest thems at about 1 o'clock in the mornings, at witching bour you will eund in the dark for a drir | He will howi erfully from 2 until 3 ly between the howl. will not t It ny use for to pat him tenderly and coo out there.” He is th nd knows inte you shall know it | It is of no use t oaxingly, “What does papa’s baby wani pa’s baby doesn’t want anything but te howl, and he atifying that amiable desire to the utmost | is of no use to add to y list of nities 3 * langua And if yur wif almly pas through Jit all, she will develop an am: degree cf spirit if you dare to lay the cht of your finger ron that “poor, dear | little, innocent darling sweetness.” | He will squirm all r Ss though he | Were first cousin to an angel worm. He will journey around all over the bed, both rand on the top of the coverings. ou are no sooner ep than one of moist little he anted firmly on your nose, or in vuth, and, later on, he will sit astride y zrecn and purple with to sit elsewhere. 1d he fall out » be heard will say » firmly believe ou pushed him out, and that you are not fit to be a father anvhow. An animated | dialogue of a purely personal and private nature will follow this remark. | But when roystering lly “snug, p” t pp With one the osu of his litt » and ty little of bh chap goes to cheeks warn , you find your i growing soft and tender to- wards him, and you would single-handed wage war against a host, or lay down your life for love of him. ible msethi, A Royal Martyr to Etiquette, From the London Star, In Spain the etiquette to be observed in the royal palaces was carried tw suc length as to make martyrs of their kings. There is an historic instance. Philip II Was gravely s¢ by the fire; the fire- maker of the court had kindled so great a quantity of wood that the monarch was nearly suffecated with heat, and his gran- Geur would not suffer him to rise from the chair; the domestics could not pr enter the because it was against the eq A Marquis de Totat appeared, and the king ordered him to damp the fires: but he excused himself, alleging that he was forbidden by the eti- ed ume to queite to perform such a function, for which the Due d’Usseda ought to be called S| upon, as it was his business. duke was gone out; the fire burned ficrcer, and the King endured it rather than derc trom his dignity. But his blood was heated to such a deg! © that he was seriously i! the | next day. A violent fever succeeded which carried him off in the twenty-fourth year of his age. i —+0+ A Girl Station Keeper. Louisville Post. From the “Kentucky {s the home of many business Women, but I think no one of them tier or more energetic than the girl who is staticn agent at Rowland, in the bluegrass,” said a Stanford friend. “I refer to Miss Susie Lasley, who is perhaps © youngest station agent aad ticket veller in the country. Two years ago, when her brother, who had been the agent at Row- land, died, Miss Suste was given the ap- poiniment, and though less than twenty, she has earned a aeserved reputation for capacity and faithfulness. Her home fs a mile from her post, but she is always at the little ticket window to sell tickets for every train and is on the platform, lantern in press, it matters not how cold and dis. agreeable the night in winter. She rides a wh , but is fin de siecle im no other re- spect, there being too much of the matter of fact about her for any foolishness. She is a brunette, with nut-brown hair, hazel eyes, and is as attractive as she is cour- ageous and independent. Everybody at Rewland knows and loves the sweet-tem- pered station agent, who will earn «. better place in the company’s employ before many months have elapsed.” —_-e2—___—_ “I wouldn't marry the best man who ever lived,” she excleimed. ‘Poor fellow,” murmured he; “nobody seems to want that besc min. What en- couragement is there, anyway, for aman to be better than the common herd?”+Bos- ton Transcript. ALWAYS THOUGHTFUL.