Evening Star Newspaper, November 20, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 1897-24 PAGES. WHITE IS THE COLOR Se That is Most Popular in Europe at the Present Time. ee SOME NEW IDEAS IN eae A Gown Fashioned After an Eighth Century Painting. EMBROIDERY =a FINE EFFECTS IN CHENILLE Special Correspondence of The Event BRUSSELS, Novemb: The present rage for rich hand-made gar- nitures has evolved many new ideas in em- broideries. Thus, chenille, which has here- - come forcibly before the public as 1 constituent of the newest elegant winter hats, is uSed for embroidery which proves particularly effective on the trans- s now made into evening gowns, Our model of a ball dress shows the use of this new material. the costum ely ‘Fhe foundation of is of rose-colored satin duch- covered with rose-colored gauz The form of the skirt is plain and tight at the top, but is trimmed with a ruffle of gauze-covered satin, extending around the skirt, quite high at the back, forming the train, and diminishing in width in front, where at the point it is but twelve headed by a band of Rus- which forms a beautiful and trast. The devant of the skirt i with a floral design, done in out- lined couched chenille of a darker shade of tose than the satin and gauze, and filled in with silver threads and tir spangles. The full Russian blouse, made of the same materials as the skirt, is likewise em- broideréd with the chenille and silver, and the fullness is confined at the waist by a f em id green velvet, covered embroidery, silver spangles and of diamonds et in silver. The Neck Trimming. The neck trimming ts also of silver-em- broidered em: velvet, and forms two points at the s well as the front. The decollete is edged with a band of sable to match the heading of the skirt ruffle. The small shoulder covering is formed by triple ruffles of gauze, edged with rose-colored chenille. Two full-blown roses are worn on the left shoulder. Long, white kid gloves or silver-embroidered, rose-colored mitts may be worn with the costume. This gown is equally effective when made up in other shades, particularly in black and white, in which case black gauze cov- ers whit tin and is embroidered with black chenille and gold or silver or jet. The velvet points and belt are also black and closing in front with a buckle | . or ermine, would look well for trimming. while a large, dark red rose at the shoulder would enlighten the subdued but exquisitely retined color harmony. Since Mme. Duse, during her successful starring venture in Paris, particularly af- fected white toilets in her most taking plays, susceptible Paris has gone white ‘aris fashionables rush to white wns, hats and trimmings. The influence is felt all over the world of fashion, and before long evidences will be telling, yl and the white note will rival rk touch, noticed in so many ite accessories, as_ jacket ts and belts, will be universal. erything White. Even jewelers feel the demand for pearls, for fashion never does anything half- hearted. White kid gloves wifl be more popular for ‘the evening than even last r, and white toilets include white hose and slippers. Satin will be the material par excellence for dinner, evening and wedding dresses. No material lends itself better to the com- binations in vogue—application of laces, embroideries and jet effects on flouncings and quillings of chiffon or mousseline de soie. One handsome model robe is made of white satin, entirely covered with ara- besques of jet. the half-mourn:ng appear- ance being avoided by the addition of a searf of turquoise-blue velvet. Plain silk velvet will be greatly used for trimming, for the facing of bodices, coats and capes, and for making belts and sashes. ‘The perfection which velveteen has at- tained makes it difficult to distinguish it from silk velv2t, particularly in shades of gray, tan, light brown, green, violet, white and cream, and dressmakers, therefore, are taking it up more and more for street gowns, as well as for evening wear. Copied After a Painting. A picturesque evening gown for a very young lady is an exact counterpart of an old eighth century painting. It is made of white velveteen, with a long, plain, flow- ing skirt and slight train. The short, tight bodice ends about the waist in loops lined with vet light rose-colored satin, and is made double-breasted, closing with buttons studded with imitation pearls. The sleeves co: tof large puffs of vel- veteen, slashed to show the full lining of ros red satin, and are finished in a turned-back cuff of real lace. A large fichu-like collar of the same lace covers | the back and shoulders, and the crossed a fill in the very slight square decol- lete. The hair must be arranged in full curls to preserve the character of the costume. A number of the stylish evening wraps and capes are made of white velveteen, lined with white silk and trimmed with fur or ostrich plumes. A practical evening cloak, which is com- paratively cheap, yet rich-looking, is made up in circular shape, and is cut in circular hape, of white velveteen, and lined throughout with lamb's wool cloth. With it is worn a ccllarette of ermine or ostrich feathers, attached to the small standing collar of the cloak by hooks and eyes, thus making it detachable and easy to be clean- ed, a merit which ts sure to appeal to the practic housewife. (iirscu & C1z., Brussels.) Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, and Hamburg. THE CARE OF CLOTHES. Hew Articles a Woman's Toilet May Be Kept in Order. From Harper's Bazar. So much attention is now paid to all the small details of dress that no woman is considered to look well dressed unless she be, as the slang phrase terms it, “well turned out,” and the plainest :ulor gown that has the required look of finish will rank higher tian the most elaborate cos- tume badly put on and lacking the appear- ance of being absolutely in order. When a woman is so situated that her social duties are paramount to all others— and this implies a generous income--a clever maid is a necessity. To work as hard as a society woman must—going from lecture to luncheon, luncheon to reception, reception to dinner, dinner to dan not to speak of the various forms of fashionable outdoor exercise—the ch: se of costume demanded will keep a inaid bu y, for there is no Ume to lose between the different en- gagements, and the gown. with all its ac- cessories of boots, stockings, gloves, et must be in waiting, ready to put on at once. There are hundreds and thousands of wo- men who have neither time, strength ner money sufficient for them to enter on a strictly society life, and yet whe go about look well-gown- Thest women, 1, will find_it just as imperati every de- 1 of their costume tect order. To begin with, they have fewer clothes, con- sequently less ¢ ‘The street never worn in the house (nor : at boots), but is out of th is time taken window, 4 en; if not ashed, if there in the day. of d t is hung o' air, turned insi out to air, and is sted to see or ruche is mu ud soiled. re ne wed to lie aronnd cn , but are hung on two hooks, so that shall be aoc When the e suftl they are folded in draw hung on a wire frame. question of space Is one that requires thought. Of course, when ty of and plenty of there can be wardrobes gasore, with elves and drawe have a place nomy of ce and mone exercised the problem fs moze ‘Within the last two o- three years some tlever devices have come into use by = the capacity of hanging closets can e double If tie depth of the wardrobe he great enough to allow of them, two curiain poles in sockets are fastened at a height which will allow a long skirt to clear the ground. On these poles are put the wire frames used to hang coais on, and it is surprising how many skirts «an bo disposed of, ar- ranged side by side, bat sufficiently far apart to give each skirt plenty of room. Above these two curtain poles are two others, a yard higher up, for the waists, over which are aiso put the wire or wooden frames. But these ure diffeventlv arrang- ed, for it would, of course, be impossible to reach so high. All along the Poles, ut regular intervals, are put eyes, through which runs a cord that also fastened to the knob on the frame, and then, in pulley fashion, the frames can be lowered or hoisted as desired. Keeping skirts and waists thus spread out is a great help to- ward always having them fresh. A pad- ding of some soft material can be put over the frames, and a small sachet put there- in to give a faint perfume, only it must be very faint. Tissue paper inserzed in the sleeves will keep them in Shape, and if there is danger of dust, a covering of cheese cloth can be put over the waists. Evening waists are best kept in boxes, and must be most carefully covered and kept in shepe with white tissue paper. The skirts of evening gowns should not be fold- ed, but are best laid iz jong trunks or boxes, with white tissue papers between the folds. Each and every hat should be kept in a hat box, and never put away dusty. Care- ful brushing every time the hat is put on oc taken off will keep it looking fresh a sur- prising length of time. If feathers come uncurled they should at once be recurled; and when flowers look mussy aud frayed the edges must be trimmed with a sharp pair of scissors. The enis of ribbon bows require the same treatznent. Boots, shoes and slippers must always be put on lasts or stuffed with paper when net in use. A pair of doots put on lasts the moment they are taken off will retain their shape and will wear twice as long as when thrown into a closet to curl up at the ends as they dry. Rubbers should not pe put away muddy, but after they have dried should be polished like ooots. The small details cf dress—gloves, veils, ribbons, handkerchiefs, etc.—are, of course, to be carefully looked after and kept in their respective cases, but they require an re onal overhauling and sorting out. Veils with holes in them and frayed edges are an abomination to te classed with soil- ed ribbons and buttonless gloves, and it is better to go without any than to have them in that condition, —_———~e-______ In the Menagerie. From Life. “Come on,” said the first flea, as he hopped from the brown bear's left foreleg; “come over and join me at a short golf game.” exclaimed the second flea, hastily. taking a bite of hyena; “where in the realm of Barnum are we to play golf? “Why,” said the first lynx, of course.” flea, “over on the HOUSEHOLD HINTS Some Timely Suggestions for Next Thursday's Dinner. HOW 10 SELECT A GOOD TURKEY Pretty and Appropriate Decorations for the Dining Room. NOVELTIES FOR THE MENU Written for The Evening Star. : In selecting the Thanksgiving turkey a personal attendance upon the market will usually prove most satisfactory. Select a short, plump, white-fleshed bird, noting particularly that the end of the breast bone is soft and flexible. Avoid too large a turkey, as the meat is neither so sweet nor-so tender as smaller ones. Turkeys weighing from eight to ten pounds are usu- ally best. Beware of long hairs or sharp scales, which are the signs of turkey senility. If, however, the fates are unpro- pitious, and nothing short of a patriarch is available, do not despair, as an hour's pre- liminary steaming. will plump him, make him tender, and in good condition for roast- ing. It must be remembered in this case that an old turkey requires richer stuffing than a young one, a little salt pork or sausage meat being usually esteemed an improvement. If you use pork, chop very fine and add a little chopped pickle, capers, parsley and sage. If a very light dressing is preferred add to every two cups of the stuffing a teaspoonful of baking powder and a level tablespoonful of flour, mixing thoroughly. cS In decorating the dining room a pretty idea is to bank the mantel with fruits, small vegetables and leaves, interspersed with ears of yellow. corn and bunches of grain or grasses; while the green ropes of club moss or the long, gray festoons of southern moss make graceful and effective draperies for pictures and chandeliers. In the center of the table there may be a tall vase of the lovely fringed chrysanthe- mums, or, if fruit decorations be preferred, a_ half pumpkin, scooped out and_ filled with purple and white grapes, crimson- cheeked apples, ruddy pears and golden oranges. Even a cabbage may be meta- morphosed into an effective jardiniere by stripping off its outer leaves until only a circular ball of tender light green leaves remains. The top may then be cut off, the inside hollowed out with a sharp knife and the cavity filled with damp moss or sand. The bottom is then leveled off so that this novel bowl will be able to stand upright, and pink chrysanthemums, or ferns, and white wax berries placed therein. Should punch form a part of the Thanks- giving dinner it should be served after the turkey and vegetables are removed, and before tae game or salad course. For a delicious Roman punch make a syrup too sweet for drinking of water and sugar. Boil twenty minutes, then cool, adding to a@ syrup composed of a pint of water and a pint of sugar the juice of six lemons and two oranges, pulp and juice of one pine- apple, shredded, and cooked with a little sugar and one pint Ceylon or any strong tea. Freeze. When the consistency of ice cream, add the whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and just cooked by pouring on them a syrup composed of half a cup of sugar boiled with half a cup of water, and all beaten together; or a table- spoonful of gelatine dissolved in a little warm water, two tablespoonfuls of Ja- maica rum and a small glass of any dry wine. Beat well, remove the dasher, cover the freezer closely, repack with salt and ice in equal quantities, and stand one side for an hour er two to “ripen.” Although pie is consideredgpre-eminently the dessert most suited to the Thanksgiving dinner, a frozen plum pudding is always sure of an appreciative followirg. This is the recipe as lately given to a cooking class: One cupful of sugar and one cupful of water boiled together until the syrup be. gins to “thread,” yelks of four or six eg; one pint of cream (boiled and chilled or whipped), one-half pound candied fruit, one cupful ground or finely chopped almonds, cne-half cup raisins, seeded or currants, or ore full cup canned pineapple; one level tablespoonful gelatine, soaked in two table- spoonfuls milk and water; stir the yelks in the cooked syrup, little by little, and re- turn to the fire, to cook until quite thick; beat until cool; put gelatine in and beat again until thick. Fold the cream in; add raisins and almonds. Freeze. When ready to pack put candied fruit in alternate lay- ers. If a sauce ts desired, serve whipped cream, flavored with wine or almond, as desired. In preparing the turkey for the oven, singe and draw, putting salt on the hands to keep them from slipping. Wash the bird thoroughly inside and out, adding a little soda to the water if at all strong. Dry carefully; cut the neck off near the breastbone, leaving enough of the crop- skin to turn over. Break the legbones close below the knee, pulling the tendons from the thighs; stuff the cavity left by the crop ard the body, and sew up with coarse thread or darning cotton. Before putting in the oven wipe all over with melted butter and dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Put in a hot oven, and when it has cooked long enough for the flour to brown pour two cups of boiling water in the pan and reduce the heat of the oven. Allow ten minutes to the pound for roast- ing, basting frequently, but adding no more water unless necessary. Roast’ a fine brown. A good test to tell when it is done is when the leg begins to cleave from the body. There is no sadder day in all the year than this holiday to the homeless. The stranger in a strange city, the widow left desolate, the orphan bereft, the oldeman .forsaken—to these the Thanksgiving bells calling to church seem more like funeral notes ringing a requiem over past re- membered joys. Send a cordial note a few days ahead to Johnnie's teacher, whom you happen to know is far from her own peo- ple, or to one of the dear old ladies in the “Home for the Aged,” or the new clerk who looks as though life was far from being a bed of roses, or the widow and her daugh- ter, who do the best they may to keep the wolf from their third story door, and bid them “come in.” They will enjoy it—oh, so much—and you—you will hear deep in your heart, ‘Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my breth- Ten, ye have done it unto me.” For the housekeeper who wishes to keep abreast of the times in culinary ventures, oyster cocktails are commended for sound- ing the keynote to her Thanksgiving din- ner. Mix thoroughly six teaspoonfuls each of prepared horseradish, tomato catsup and vinegar; twelve teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and one of Tabasco sauce. Put five small oysters in each claret glass or ice shell, pour some of the dressing over, and serve very cold. The above quantity will be sufficient for a dozen plates. Orange salad is the proper accompani- ment to a game course, or it may be served with fowl. Line a salad bow! with crisp lettuce leaves, cut oranges in halves and scrape out the pulp. Put this over the lettuce leaves, pour a mayonnaise dressing over all, ard serve at once. If the dinner table is to be lighted .with candles, see that they are lighted for a few moments, then extinguished and cut so that they are ready for relighting just before“@inner is announced. At eat you make an exhibit at the horse show?” “My daughter is going.” Lite, , MONTH OF WEDDINGS November is Almost as Popular as June. GOWNS: FOR FAIR YOUNG BRIDES Color. Effects Sought -for in. the Bridal Parties. SOME AUTUMN FASHIONS ie Se Special Correspond-nce ef The Ev.n'ng Star. NEW YORK, November 18, 1897. I: SEEMS TO BE A popular opinion that if one cannot. be married among the roses of June, the chrysanthemums of Navember make the best substitute, with their dark green backgrounds of pir ted palms. A fash- ion that has made some of the autumn weddings more strik- ing than usual as dress functions is that of putting the cho- Tus of bridesmaids into low-cut evening gov.ns. The gown of the bride herself varies from sceson to season, in nothing but its details. At a smart wedding celebrated at Tux- ede a few days age the bride wore an ex- tremely rich gown of ivory-white duchesse setin, trimmed with two flounces of Brus- sels lace so Ceep as to cover’ the skirt al- most entirely. Each flounce. was headed with narrow ruchings of white mousseline de soie, and the upper flounce dipped in front, rising in curves on* the sides. The pretty bodice povehed a very little in front and was made with a pointed chemisette of white m ‘sseline de soie; this was em- broidered in silver and érystal, and edged with a wide frill of old lice, ‘caught up on the left shoulder with. orange blossoms. The neck was finished with a-little band of mousseline de soie and w flaring collar be- hind.. The waist belt was: embroidered like the chemisette, and came to a high point on the ieft side. A satin train fell from the hips and was caught with ribbon bows. The bride’s glinting red-gold hair was arranged with a small coronet of orangu blossoms, from which hung the lace veil. Bridesmaids: Gowns. The six bridesmaids wore high princess gowns of white glace silk, with fichus of ecru lace gathered about the shoulders and caught at the waist with gold-colored moire sashes, whose brcad ends reached the ground. They had white velvet hats, with feathers. At three or four of the prettiest wed- dings of the autumn the bridesmaids, as well as the bride, have worn veils. ‘The four bridesmaids of a young girl who was married recently at a country house in Hempstead were gowned in ivory-white bengaline, with chiffon fichus of a delicate primrose yellow. They wore tulle veils with aigreites of white ospreys and carried bouguets of pale yellow chrysanthemums. A cavalier cape is a fashionable addition to a bridesmaid’s toilet when a hat fs to be worn. A good example was furnished at a church wedding in New York last week, at which the bride's sister, who was her only attendant, was dressed in white cord- ed silk, with decorations of guipure and pale blue crepe de Chine. A cape of sap- phire blue velvet, lined with white satin, was slung from ber shoulders. Her hat was pale blue, with white trimmings. A Touch of Color. White corduroy has been used with good effect for bridal costumes recently. White moire antique is more or less in favor. In one or two instances a little color has been adéed to the bridal white by girls who find all white unbecoming. I recall, for ex- ample, a dress worn two or three weeks ago of white satin, with chemisette and sleeves of white chiffon, and train of white brocade, lined with pale yellow. The tint in this case, however, was not exactly for the bride’s own benefit, but was arranged to harmonize with the bridesmaids’ dresses, which were of yellow silk, veiled with white muslin. Regard to the effect of the bridal party as a group is making the gowning of the bridesmaids in white more and more usual. Yellow brocade, with white chiffon, Char- treuse green with white chiffon, cerise chiffon veiled with white, pale blue poplin with ruffiles of chiffon, and silver gray bro- cade with enrichments of pale pink chiffon are other combinations that have been noted this month of weddings. Bride’s Traveling Dress, A bride’s traveling dress 1s one of the mest, important items.of her trousseau. A fashionable dressmaker has described to me two or three for which she has been responsible lately. One of these consisted of a mauve cloth skirf, with a Russian bicuse of Lyons velvet of the same shade. This was lined with white satin and bor- dered with Russian le, ‘whicl™ costly fur was used also for the lafge collar and_ revers. With this costume went a mauve velvet toque, sable trimmed. A second out- fit was a dark green cfoth Gress, with ao Russian bodice of green velvet and crimson tartan silk; vest of white cfoth, gold em- broidered, and cloak of green velvet, sable trimmed. A third bride started for the south in blue cloth, trimmed with silver and chinchilla, and a fourth ‘took train in gray cloth, trimmed with chinchilla and cerise velvet. This cestume included a chinchilla cape and muff, both trimmed with old lace, and a cerise velvet hat, ar- ranged with black lace and feathers.’ * At a quiet home wedding-on Staten Is- land the bride, a pretty blonde, was mar- ried in her tray dress, of chestnut brown cloth, boi with sable. The bodice hada pouch: of cream satin. The skirt was braided in brown and gold. A brown cloth:qgpe belonged to this costume; it was lined “with fur and trimmed with sable tills. A-brown et hat was worn, handsome paste with a paradise bird and buckle for ornament. © A z aration fora wedding an exquisite evening gown of white satin, cut after’a is model, and bordered. &t the hem: wide insertion of old Venetian » Bet between two the left’ side of” the skirt is a panel of.the same lace, end- ing under a white satin bow. The bodicé is vVelled with chiffon and trimmed over one | Their goods for sale shoulder with a garniture of ragged pink chrysanthemums, an end of which hanzs nearly to the floor. The low bodice is square-cut. A loop of pink velvet for the hair and a pink ostrich feather fan are pro- vided. One of the handsomest costumes designed for the horse show was of gold brocade. with leaf green chiffon bodice drapings, and sash caught with a big steel buckle. Grayish-bluc brocade arranged with ecru lace draperies was another successful com- bination. Among the dresses worn by daylight vel- yet was popular to remarkaWte degree. Green, browa and blue seemed to be the favorite colors, and ribbed velvet and plain were equally desirable. Skirts were much ‘trimmed, incrustations of lace appearing everywhere. ELLEN OSBOR: IDEA FOR A CHURCH. NEW Every Day in the Housewife’s Week Will Be Represented. } From Harper's Bazar. One of the late things in the way of a fair for charity is what the girls call a Household fair. ‘l_e girls call it so for the reason that they intend to have representing ti.c household work of every day in the week. The decorations of the room and of all the bles will be in pink and white che cloth prettily and draped. The first table will be the Monday table, with a large placard hung over it on which that day of the week will be written. preside, dressed as washerwomen, with large checked aprons and their sleev rolled up. They will have for sale every thing pertaining to washing— hboards, wringers, soap and starch, and washing powders of all descriptions. The next table will be Tuesday. ‘The girls will be dressed more as housemaids, with large aprons, but no caps. On their table they will sell irons, ironing beards, shirt and skirt boards, iron stands and holde: wax, borax and starch, fluting irons and scissors. Wednesday will come next. This table will represent the day for silver cleaning and mending, both house linen and body clothes, stockings, ete. The girls at this table ‘will be dressed in pretty light calico gowns, with small caps and aprons. They promise to make their table the most at- tractive of all, and will offer for sale all kinds of silver polish, brushes, chamois j skins, alcohol, work baskets with every- thing for darning and mending—darning cotton, thimbles, stocking darners, needles, skeins of thread for mending gloves, rolls of different qualities of muslin for mending house linen—in fact, everything for clean- ing silver and mending. The next table will represent Thursday, which generally being supposed in all well regulated house- holdsto be a leisure day, will have its “salesjadies” more fancifully dressed. They are to wear fine muslin gowns trimmed with ribbons, and caps to correspond, and more elaborate gowns than the other girls. ill consist entirely of fancy work, both finished and untinished— all sorts of soft cushions, table cove bu- reau sets, pillow shams, besides aprons for servants, nurses’ caps, afghans and covers. Friday, sweeping and dusting day, will be represented on the next table. The girls will wear black gowns, white collars and cuffs and caps with ribbon bows on top, and two ends which hang to just about the shoulder. They will wear long white aprons with a large bow tied at the back. The at- tractions at their. table will be dusters, dust brooms and brushes of all descriptions, wash cloths, brooms, whisks, pails, dust pans, carpet sweepers and chamois skins for the window: Last, but not least, will be the Saturday table. Saturday being baking 4: the girls will have to wear their kitchen gowns, which will consist of calicoes of pretty colors, theft sleeves rolled up, and caps on their heads made like cooks’ caps, white aprons coming to the bottom of the skirts, with full bib and straps over the shoulders. They will sell, in the first place, all sorts of delicious home-made cake and _ breads, muffins, crumpets and biscuits. Then at the other end of the table they will offer for sale baking tins and pans, muffin rings, waffle irons, pate pans and everything you can think of in the way of useful articles for baking. Two little boys dressed as chefs will be at this table to assist, as the girls expect to be busier here than in any other part of the room. The fair will open at 2 p. m., and will continue all the afternoon and evening. The girls have obtained all their cooking utensils and household goods on commission at a large wholesale house dewn town, which very kindly made a great reduction on them, and will take back any surplus stock if not spoiled. But they hope to sell all they have on hand. Neat little cards have been sent out, both in and out of town, announcing the day of the opening of the fair, which read thus: A Household Fair will be held on Wednesday, November 10, in the Parish House of Christ Church, from 2 p. m. till 10 p. m. You are Cordially Invited to Attend. —+e-+___ How He Fools Folks. From Life. 7 “Does he ever tei the truth?” “Oh, yes. When, he wants to peopl deceive ——_+o+____ “An old bachelor,” said the sweet girl, “is a man who confesses that he does not think he is smart enough to take care of any one but himself.” “To my mind,” said the mean man, “he shows that he is too smart to take care of any cne but himself.”—Cincinnati En- quirer. a table | festooned | Here several young girls will FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Stylish Boots and Slippers for Street and ~ "Evening Wear. Brilliant Hues in Winter Hosiery— Silk Petticoats Are More Pop- ular Than Ever. Written for The Evening Star. Several years ago we rebelled against the liquid polish applied to shoes with a sponge on the end of a wire attached to the cork of a bottle. So we were given shoes made | of calf, which could be polished in the same manner as the shoes of our brothers. These shoes bad toothpick points, and we wore them laced and gioried in our eman- cipation from French kid and paper soles. Polishing shoes or sending them to a bo black or patronizing him in public hav: Proved wearisome, how S> decided that a high polish is not half as neat looking as a duil uuisi. none of it. And as for lacéd boots, we have simply had our fill of dusty lace } Determined revolt has had its effect. | The w Iking shoe for this winter is a dull | dongola, buttoned nattily and made on a man's last. This does not make it look large and clumsy; on the contrary, it looks | ludicrously small pared cets our hes sole and a by the way, is the euphonious name for the shupe of toe it now most affected. A moderate “bull- is made for those of us who cannot | make up our minds to be so extremely sen- | sible as wearing a toe the shape of a bull- dog’s nose implies. Another toe much worn is the Cornell or cadet. I rather | cy the name aried to suit the | te of the purchaser. It is needless to | say that the soles are very thick and the | heel is not Ithough no one could jinsult it by it akin to common sense. For Dress Occasions. Dress shees vary but little from year to year. Patent leather with kid or cloth tops, preferably the former, with toes more - round than pointed and_ heels rather higher than formerly, are the favor- ites of well-shod women. The objection that patent leather is apt to crack is al- | Ways mei by the sage remark that it will | not if the shoe is always warmed before | being put on. For evening wear satin slip- | pers are promised, though leather is a favorite, Sli | this winter must not be ight foot covering of yore, ted of little more t pictured as_ the | which n a rosette and | The Grecian slipper of to- lay has a long vamp and from two to four graceful straps across the instep. As long as it is necessary to have shoes for evening wear of varied hues so long | will satin be much favored. Many women prefer a heavy Oxford tie and a gaiter for walking, averring that the | | ankle is less confined and warmer when so dressed than in stiff leather covering. The proper dressing for the dull leather | | now in vogue fs neatsfoot oil or vaseline applied in the smallest quantities and briskly rubbed with a cloth. Stockings are still resplendent in all the hues of the rainbow. Heavy silk, heavy cotton or merino are now considered more suitable for winter than the light summer weights. Very beautiful, indeed, are the gay plaids in heavy silk, and scarcely less alluring in merino. Many Patterns which were popular years ago have returned to j vie in favor with the gay reds, blues and greens, blending in plaids and stripes. Blue stockings with polka dots, which must date back quite to the days when the term vas bleu first came into disrepute, are very popular. Silk Petticoats. With boots and hose as they should be according to fashion’s dictates, one must have a silk petticoat to be quite in keeping. A silk petticoat! Say two, | three or four, rather, provided, of course, | the purse strings are long or the fingers | quick and clever. A_ silk petticvat for | evening gowns is preferably of white taf- feta, and foamy with lace and innumerable pinked or pleated ruffles. A changeable silk taffeta, with corded or tucked and hemmed rufties, or with one wide flounce, } is tor stormy da: This petticoat should | | ‘ons! a French heel. be a litlue shorter than those worn on a bright day. Then last, but not least, is the gay striped or plaid petticoat, usually with the brightest of colors running riot all over its flounced, ruffled or pleated surface. These plaid petticoats ching! And they are not the most exp of the silk turbelows, either. Othere,s! S are trim- med with lace or with narrow velvet; but the plaid petticoat needs no adornment save its own bright hues, fashioned into ruffles, and is a source of comfort to its | wearer as long as its silky folds hold t gether and give forth their soft, luxurious frou-frou. MABEL BOYD. ——__ WOMAN'S HEARTLESSNESS. Are ill Decorated With Dead Birds. From an Article by Cella Thaxter. When the Audubon Society was first or- ganized it seemed a comparatively simple thing to awaken in the minds of all bird- wearing women a sense of what their “decoration” involved. We flattered our- selves that the tender and compassionate heart of woman would at once respond to the appeal for mercy,but after many months of effort we are obliged to acknowledge curselves mistaken in our estimate of that universal compassion, that tender heart in which we believed. Not among the igno- rant and uncultured so much as the edu- cated and enlightened do we find the ind terence and hardness that baffiés and per- plexes us. Not always, heaven be praised! but too often—I think I may say in two- thirds of the cases to which we appeal. One lady said to me, “I think there is a great deal of sentiment wasted on the birds. There are so many of them, they never will be missed, any more than mos- quitoes! I shall put birds on my new bon- net.” This was a fond and devoted mother, a cultivated and accomplished woman. Another, mocking, says, “Why don’t you try to save the little fishes in the sea?” and continues to walk the world with dozens of warblers’ wings making her headgear hideous. Not one in fifty is found willing to remove at once the birds from her head, even if, languidly, she does acquiesce in the assertion that it is a cruel sin against na- ture to destroy them. “When these are worn out I am willing to promise not to buy any more,” is what we hear, and we are thankful, indeed, for even so much grace; but alas! birds never “wear out.” And as their wearer does not carry a placard stat- ing their history, that they were bought last year, or perhaps given to her, and she does not intend to buy any more, her economy goes on setting the bad example, or it may be her indolence is to blame—one is as fatal as the other. Qccasionally, but too rarely, we meet with a fine spirit, the Her Hats | work j unse! | excitement, | nervous ene | brief pe fire of whose generous impulse consumes at once all selfish considerations. And how refreshing is the sight-of the birdiess bon- net! The face beneath, no matier how piain it may be, seems to possess a gentle charm. She might have had birds, th's wo- man, for they are ¢heap and pientiful enough, heaven knows! But she has them not, therefore she must wear within things infiniteiy precious—name Rood se, Sood taste, good feeling. Heaven bless every woman who dares turn her back on fashion and go about thus beautifully adorned! Does any woman imagine these withered corpses (cured with arsenic), which she loves to carry about, are beautiful? Ne So; the birds lost their beauty with their lives. Today I saw a mat woven of war- blers’ heads,spiked lM over its surface with sharp beaks, set up on @ bonnet and borne aloft by :ts possessor in prid 1 fea we no longer deserye these golden is of God. I would the birds could ait migrate to some friendlier planet, peop! by & nobler race than ee & ours, where Ub might live their sweet lives unmolested and be treated with the respect, the con- ion, and the grateful love wh. their due. For we have almost fe cur right to the blessing of their presene But still we venture to hope for a better future, still the Audubon and other socie- work with heart and soul. to prote and save them, and we trust yet to s * the day when women, one and all, will look ring of birds in its proper + a8 a sign of heartlessness and a mark of ignominy and reproach. ———~-2e- Work as a Soothing E jement. From Harper's Bazar. To soothe a nervous, excitable child by is generally considered unwise and jentific, while some ardent child-lovers go yet farther and call it downright cruel- ty. But to one who has studied child na- ture thogghtfully and continuously th. idea becomes a reality, not an alarming theory, and ® fact which has been too often overlooked by tender is but a child of larg State of mind of the kept at hom lustrates the worn out parents. The wth, and average man, ay from his work. “Uh, aid a wife to m duit the when ale ri 1 am ji John's of- fice was closed ay because there was a h in the firm’s family, and he's been at heme. He is so restless and f it just uses me up. He fixed c tle things about the house, he did not kno and 1 did not ed t dread these ng repa e¢ been so bad,” sighed ‘1 With the resti the child inva lesser time, and nothing him and keeps ss man, degree. Play but play, him iu a sta The play can be sought, left as soon as bee tlows off like so it 1 with and the the the current of a loose tric wire. Chiléren are educated by wholesome hat n0t by rewards and punishments, and one of the first and most healthful of habits is that of self-control and the power of concentration. W excitable child has nothing more to day long than play, the little fan imagination spend themselves in ce change, But if a little real work be the tiny mind must hold itself stea der to a nor- ‘omplish the task, and during the jod the overstrained nerves get rest. be sure, the nerves are in u while the little task Is under way, but ¢ slight sustained effort has a tonic eff. Other faculties have a chance to come into piay, which give bala s play cannot give. the mind is steadied, cont begins, and the excitable gets a short period of actual calm. ‘But,” says the alarmist, “you would not have a slender child like mine de any work? The doctor says I must let her run wild till she gets a strong body, and then she will learn fast enough.” Yes, I do mean that ftist such children as yours would be helped out of their nervous condition if they had work—study—of some Kind. Granted if their play could frequent- ly be guided by a wise adult mind that the same results could be gained; but it is not so guided, and the play only aggravates the trouble. Of course the tasks must be small, the lessons brief, but given carefully and gradually, the nervous system comes urder control, and as a result the bodily health improves in a way that all the out- the e which pur- ition is uity of nature | door exercise and medicine could not bring about. It astonishes you? It has aston’ ers many times, and yet it is tru have watched the results man: seen slender children grow strone, self-controlled, under the power of work fitted to their strength. Do not wait too long. This excessive ‘excitability grows apace, and ever, week increases the child’s lack of poise of b ly and mind. soe Sick Room Hints, American Qu From the Every woman is likely to find herself at | Some time in charge of a sick room, and, if it be a new charge, the knowledge of a few simple rules will be The first point to be ing a room for the sick should be, if possible, on the side of the house receiving the morning or noonday sun. This is a rule that is unvarying—in summer or winter the sun i onducive to health. The proper temperature to main- tain is from sixty-five to five: grees Fahrenheit. One of th ances for cooling the room i: n € fan which blows over a tub or bowl A simpler plan is to use an i: ber or oiled silk. Under ordinary stances the patient's face and neck m: sponged several times a day with cool wa- ter and the palms of the hands rub with ice. There are a large number drugs Imost indispens- in nsidered is that it de- of for lowering febrile temperatures, but they should only be used when pre- scribed by a physician. The same caution must be observea as to the use of ice packs and poultices. Tepid sponge baths, to waich bay rym, vinegar or alcohol solution have been afded, are cooling and grateful to a sufferer in the summer time, and may usually be given a. least once a day. e+ The Trained Attendant. Frpm Harper's Bazar. While the superiority of the trained nurse in all serious illness is unquestioned, we yet feel that there is a place, and an im- pertant one, which the attendant is well qualified to fill. In many families in moder- ate circumstances a trained nurse, by her requirements, adds to the complications which illness necessarily entails. While the patient is critically ill, no inconveniences to the family weigh against the skilled care of sucha nurse, but there comes a time, during the weeks of convalescence, when a less expensive care-taker is welcome, as well as one who fits more easily into the do- mestic economy of a limited household. There is another and a larger class of fami- lies to whom the payment of $21 a week is an impossibility. Heretofore in times of ill- ness such families have been obliged to de- pend upon entirely untrained service. So there the attencant, with her thorough krowledge of the care of the sick room and her many resources in alleviating illness, would be a great comfort. =, WILD ENTHUSIASM AT THE HORSE sHOw During a critical event in the ring.