Evening Star Newspaper, October 30, 1897, Page 21

FASHION’S DICTATES Of Interest to Women Who Would Be Well Dressed. DESIGN FOR AN EVENING COSTUME; A Cloak of Tan Cloth in the Em- pire Style. FURS IN GREAT VARIETY Special Correspondence of The Evening Sta THE HAGUE, October 1S, 1897. The new garnitures which lend color and brightness to the simple street gown of today also characterize the makeup of the evening dress, or tofleette de ceremonie, as our design shows. The model consists of a princesse over- dress and train of canary yellow velvet, over @ petticoat of yellow satin, draped with black mousscline de soie. This meusseline de soie, which also forms the front of the low-cut bodice, is knife-pleated and richly studded with jet spangles; an elaborate border of jet and gold bead em- broidery extends along the hem. The yellow velvet princesse overdress 1s also bordered with a rich jet and bead em- broidery, and is edged with a narrow band of ermine, the small black tails of which exiend downward at short intervals. A jacket of thickly jetted yellow Veivet fellows the line of the decollete at the back and of the mousseline vest at the e is a beautiful combination of d gold bead: d forms three down- in cut jet pendants. also of jet en act “as sly e consists | ©: ment of canary | ¥ ered with jet and | rs ed with jet pendants | c loose “drapery of the hair, and of canary with jet 1 long black cover th toilet ith pa m, or to a brunette wh set off by the luster of and hair. stion of evening dress includes icn for evening wraps. The Fashionable Dolman. The newest form of these articles of Gres to the fashionable the back fitting close he large sleeves form & each other at the waist line at the back, and fall loosely in front. A handscme model affects this style. It is made of silver-gray cloth, with the yoke richly embroidered with steel beads and gold and silver spangles, and is lined throughout with gray squirrel. The yoke is defined by large, wide shoulder pieces of blue fox fur, which form a kind of col larette and stand out well over the shoulder of the wide doiman sleeve. The high Medici collar is cut in one with the yoke, and embroidered in continuation of the design on the same. It is also lined with blue fox. The empire pe is also obvious in many new designs for evening wraps. A very simple form and one which may be easily and inexpensively imitated is an empire cloak of tan cloth, with square yoke and spangled cream-colored lace. ‘The leeve is bishep, cut very wide to ac- ninty puff or arm drapery underneath. The cuff, as weil as the inevitable Medici collar, is of mink, and the whole garment is lined with the Mik, brocaded in large designs on a large, oft ground. A large bow of cream-colored ribbon ts fastened at the back of the collar, and an- other is at the throat, where it falls in long ends. The plain, circular form for evening cloaks has survived many years of favor- itism, although ‘t sacrifices beauty and style to practicability. One of white eider- down cloth is lined throughout with paie rose-colored quilted surah, and the collar, as well as the narrow border which ex. tends along both sides of the closing in front consists of long-haired white Angora fur. Furs for Winter. And thus we have reached the subject of furs, which are to be worn in great abun- dance, variety and combinations this com- ing winter. The ever-fashionable seal ts becoming such a rarity that its soft dark iuster is set off by a trimming consisting of some other fur, as chinchilla, sable or ermine, A new design, which may very conven- iently be made of 9ld material, cousists of a short, tight-fitting sealskin sacque, with the vest and hizh collar of ermine. The sleeves are aimost tight-fitting, and a 1a- bot of real lace is attached at the throat with a diamond agraffe. Jabots and ties of lace, or embroidered white silk, are very fashionable on the front of the fur jacket, cloak or eave, par- Ucularly when attached with a jeweled pin. Gray Pe particularly wy collaret broidere n lamb fs another favorite, en combined in a cape oF » with black lace elaborately em- with gray silk, silver threads and spangles. Ermine will be worn on outdvor, s well as indoor, garments, and follow: the universal tendency for combinations larettes, boas and capes decorated with le tails. ng feature of many new bell- is the flounce or flounces of circle the shoulders and add to their brea - The muff is worn very large, and its new plain shape is a copy of those worn by our grandmothers a century ago. The more fancy shapes are very ful!, drawn at the sides and opening over the wrist with large, stiff ruffles. By M. A. VocEts (The Hague). HICS OF HOOK BORROWING. How to Take Care of a Volume Lent You. From the Philadelphia Record. In spite of s’ fatherly injunction to Laertes T a borrower nor a lender be most of us borrow a new book how or then or receive it from the generous owner who insists upon lending it. Some | beople take the book carelessly, others do | not rest until it is read and returned to the keeping of its proprietor. The first thing to do with a borrowed book Is to cover It with thick paper to pro- tect the covers from accidental splashes or trom fingering. Do not wait a day or so, but cover it at once as soon as you receive it. Write the name of the book plainiy on the paper cover, also the owner's name. If You are one of a large family and the bor- Fowed book fs I where ely to be laid on a table can pick ft up, write on ook is not to be left on the for in spite of dainty daven- sements ihe Mbrary table often association with an inkstand, tlower vase containing tacle of fluid which overturned and spot the borrowed book. Do not read a little In the borrowed book and put it aside while you read three or four other more Begin ft and get thro: ith it, reading as steadily as you can until it is finished, and then return it promptly. Do not wait unti! rsday or Sunday “because you will sure- ly see the owner then return it at once and then ft will be safely off your hands. It is provoking to have a book borrowed nd kept for an indefinite time; it prevents others who may be awaiting the book fr the opportunity of enjoying it. If the bor- rower finds herself not like to read it, she should return it at once and sk for the privilege of borrowing {t an- other time Never, nev. that you lend to another a book borrowed. Let not that Piece of superficial dishonesty be laid to your charge Never permit your pencil to make any mark or annotation in a bor- rowed book. If you think a date {s mis- stated or any piece of infor be of use in collateral reading recurs to you, you are at liberty to write it on a slip of paper’and to leave it in the book at thé page where it belongs. No one should ever #core a passage or a word in a borrowed took. This is inexcusable. Few of us could subscribe to Charles Lamb's suggestion, advising possessers of books to be shy of showing them, but if you fo iend them let it be to one who will re- furn them ‘w‘ith usury enriched with an- Lotations tripling their value.” Return a borrowed book in the condition in which it was lent, and as soon as pos- ble. —+-o+—_—__—_ Compensation, From: Punch. She—“T'm to hear you've lost your patient, Dr. Jones.” He—“But he was ill a long, long time!” ty to find time | expense accoun: HE SAVES LITTLE. What It Costs a Certain College Pro- fessor to Live. From Scribner's. Since my object is not to idealize my ex- periences, but to tell the truth, I may say frankly that the principal reason why I have remained here has been the financial one. My salary is $2,000 a year. It ts a small sum for any professional man to rn, and it is certainly less than the col- lege would gladly pay if it were able; on the other harff, it comes nearer to coincid- ing with the cost of living here than do the much larger salaries of some fricnds of mine who occupy chairs in the great universities. Most of the people, even the more prosperous of them, in the communi- ty in which the college is located, do not have so large an income as do the profes- sors, and we even find ourselves—rather uncomfortably, it must be said—looked upon by our townsmen as a sort of local moneyed aristocracy. But the conditions ef living are unquestionably easier and, in many respects, more attractive here than in many other places. Rents, for example, are decidedly lower. My house, while not on the main street, ts centrally and pleas- antly located, with a generous strip of lawn, a bit of garden in the rear, and some fruit and shade trees. The house is very plain, somewhat old-fashioned, and im- Perfectly arranged, but it is in good repair, and has, unlike the houses of most of my reighbors, the modern conveniences of gas, furnace and bath room. The rent is #350 a year. A house equally good and as well located could not be had in any uni- versity town or city that I know of for double that sum. On the other hand, meats and groceries are not very much cheaper here than elsewhere; indeed, my wife of- ten regrets the absence of large city mar- kets and stores, with their lower range of prices. I have recently been comparing ts for a number of years back, and find that the annual budget aver- ages about as follow Rent Fuel, gas. Table and service.. o Insurance (including life) and taxes. Clothing . os: Contributions to chureh and local ob- qT be Sh ae eka “THE EVENING STAR SATURDAY, ‘OCTOBER 80, 1897-28 PAGES. HOUSEHOLD HINTS The Problem of Supplying Places for Women’s Toilets. BUPTERCUPS AND CARAMEL RECIPES A. Dressing for Lobsters That is - Always Good. ONE WAY TO SERVE OYSTERS Written for The Evening Star. As women’s toilets grow more elaborate the great brains of masculine inventors, spurred doubtless by exigencies arising in their own households, have taken up the problem, and beds, couches, trunks and bags for the housing of these treasures are rapidly making their appearance. New couches are made so that the top, turning easily back, discloses an airtight storage place, where skirts may be spread at fuil Jength. For the waists, the brass bed- stead opens a refuge, in two dust-proof drawers placed underneath. One drawer opens at the upper end of the bed, and one at the foot, the length of both being the width of the bed. There is a space between the closed top of the drawer and the bed to allow for the free circulation of air be- tween. A pleated curtain to match the draperies of the bed is tacked to the front of the drawers, hiding them from view when closed. So much for the kind offices of the cabinetmaker. Nor is the trunk- maker far behind. A new dress suit case for women is made in extra light weight to hold an entire gown without crushing; while a hat trunk with places for seven hats makes “milady” a happy woman. There is in this a velvet rest, to which hats are pinned, but which may be removed, if cecasion requires. “Buttercups” are welcomed by both young and old. Molasses candy is first made by boiling together two cups of Por- to Rico molasses, one cup of white sugar, three-quarters of a cup of water, one ta. blespocnful (rounded) of butter, and one- half teaspoonful cream tartar to prevent granulating. Do not stir, and as soon as the sirup begins to boil, ‘cover with a lid. When the candy 1s cooked sufficiently it vill form into thick globules when dropped in cold water. Remove trom the tire, pour on an oiled marble or platter, and as soon 48 cool enough to handle begin to pull. The candy should be rather sticky at first. else it will not be of the right consistency when done. As soon as it gets so it easily handled, hold over the stove, puil briskly and it will begin to whiten.’ Now place on the slightly floured molding board, and stretch out into a long, narrow shape. Lay in the center of this a strip of fondant, roll over, pull out into sticks about three. quarters of an inch in diameter, and cut off in inch pleces with a pair of shears. Lay the pieces as cut*on an oiled paper or floured plate. These “buttercups,” prop- erly made, should be brittle at first, but rapidly melt in the mouth. A salad dressing for lobster that is much affected by Philadelphia housewives is nade in this fashion: Take two raw eggs beaten together, one cupful of milk, one- half tablespoonful cornstarch, four hard- boiled eggs, a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, four large mustard spoonfuls of mixed mus- tard, one cup or one-half cup of olive oil. One tablespoonful of vinegar sprinkled over the lobster before mixing in the dressing. When the milk comes to a boil, put in the raw eggs and cornstarch, stirring all the time to make it smooth. Take off the range when thick, and set away to cool. This can be made in the morning and allowed to stand until evening. Have ready the four hard-boiled eggs, wash the yolks fine and add cayenne pepper, salt and mustard. Then beat up the cold dressing and add it, stirring all the time. When it becomes like cream, add “he oll as slowly as possible. Mix part of the dressing through the lob- ster, and mask the lobster with the re- mainder. This quantity of dressing suffices for one large or two small lobsters. With the best intentions in the world, most young mothers are ni quite as ignorant as baby No. 1 itself regarding the care re- quired to keep its small person in order. To such, a word from an experienced nurse may settle doubts and “make assurances doubly sure.” é As soon as the teeth come, clean daily with a soft rag or soft tooth brush, and inspect carefully once a week for evidence of decay cr spots. If the latter appear, rub with a little pumice stone. Cut a match like a chisel, dip in pumice and rub the teeth. In cutting the tiny nails, do not round them too much at the corners, espe- Cally the toe nails, as it is apt to give rise to ingrowing nails. In regard to the hair, a brush and coarse comb are all that should be used, as the fine comb is a relic of bar- barism. If the skin on the head {s in- clined to become “scurfy,” rub with vase- line to soften, then wash off with warm water and castiie soap, taking care not to press heavily on the fontanelles or soft spot. If the hair tends to fall out, use bay rum and quinine in proportion of twen grains of the latter to a half pint of bay rum. The question of “how much water should we drink” is referred by the Journal of Hygiene to our instincts, with the assur- ance that they can tell us much better than any hard or fixed rule. “For ages,” says this liberal writer, “our instincts have been acquiring a knowledge of how much to drink, and transmitting that knowledge to descendants; and if we follow them we shall not go far out of the way. It is of more use to us to know that pure water fs ssential, and that impure water is one of the most dangerous drinks, than to know how much of it is required dally. If one lives in a region where the water is bad, it should be boiled and put away in botties, well-corked, in an ice chest, and in addi. tion, one should eat all the fruit one can, if fruit agrees—as fruits contain not only pure water, but the salts which are needed to carry on healthfully the functions of life. Before putting the winter's supply of vegetables into the cellar see that it is absolutely clean. Sweep and dust out the bins; brush down the fall's accumulation of cobwebs, wash the swing shelves and put a thick coat of wnitewash on the walls. If possible keep the winter's supply of canned fruits in a closed cupboard; but failing that, wrap each jar in a news- paper to exclude the light, write the name of the contents on the outside, and stand in orderly rows on the swing shelves. Thus protected the fruit will keep its natural color until opened. To be sure that the house is on a healthy foundation and that no animal or vegetable product is left unnoticed to decay and in- vite disease germs, inspect often, sweep weekly and air a few hours daily, excepting in extreme cold weather. The glint of brass brightens all the win- dows of the housefurnishing stores these days, for brass is emphatically this sea- son’s favorite metal. Tables, brackets, frames, cabinets, desk furnishings, screens, even portierés and hangtngs, glitter with an almost barbaric prodigality of this met- al, and those whilom favorites—Dresden china, marquetry, sterling silver and old tapestries—may as well veil their faces till the reign of brass is accomplished. Another rule for chocolate caramels calls for one cup Porto Rico molasses and one heaping cup of brown sugar. Boil very slowly until it is stringy as it falls from the spoon—about fifteen or twenty minutes. Add two squares grated chocolate and sim- mer five minutes. Remove from fire, add one tablespoonful thick cream or one des- sert spoonful buttere- Flavor with cinna- mon or vanilla, turn into buttered tins, and mark off with squares before the mixture. ‘An experienced candy maker says due re- gard must be had to the state of the air for candy maxing. On a damp, moist or rainy day, when the air is full of moisture, syrup will not evaporate or candy harden well. For the same reason it is not wise to have anything on the stove that will throw off steam when suger is cooking for fondant. Fireplace fittings grow amain, Sebracing furnishings appropriate for every style ot fireplace, from the massive Queen Ann to the daintier fin de siecle grates 21 label is adulteration. STRIKING COSTUMES Give a Fair Forecast of the Coming Winter Stytes. VELVET WILL BE A FAVORITE MATERIAL Chiffon-Covered Blouses Intended for Semi-Dress Affairs. WRAPS FOR EVENING WEAR (Copyright. 1897, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Eve NEW YORK, Oct per 3 PRETTY DANCE at Tuxedo a few evenings ago brought out a number of dresses which may be regarded as fore- casts of the fashions of the gay season. One in which I was especially interested was worn by a girl of the English type, slender and very blonde. It was made <2 of blue silk as pale as the shade you see gnce ip a while in an opal. Accordion-pleated jehiffon of the same color, or hint of cqlor,-was draped over the skirt, with a narfow ruche at the hem. The bodice was cufow, with folds of turquoise blue velvet framing the shoulders. The sides of the bodice were covered with embroidery in turquoise, sil- ver and paste, while in’ front came a ripple of lace, powdered with gold and flowing down over the skirt on the left side. There were long, tight-fitting lace sleeves, with puffs of chiffon at the shoulders. Delicate pink roses were worn as ornaments, At least half a dozen of the best dresses were of velvet, which bids feir to be the best Iked of winter materials. A particu- larly striking costume, as simple as it was stately, was of mauve velvei, cut with a slightly pouched bodice; folds of the velvet re shoulders and nts of diamonds Graduated ‘bands of gold embroidery, set with turquoise, started under the left arm, diminishing to the right. Other bands ornamented the per- fectly cut skirt, beginning on the left hip and crossing the front. The longest strips of embroidery nearly reached the foot of the gown. The narrow belt was of mauve satin, clasped with diamonds. There were no sleeves. Particalarly Dainty. A- young girl not yet out danced in a dress that looked the essence of daintinese, with the soft pink, blue and mignonette green of its embroidered gauze over white silk. A lace flounce finished the skirt. The bodice was full and low, with a ruching of lace about the shoulders. There were full, short sleeves with a bow of pink vel- vet on one shoulder. The belt was of pink velvet also; it was fastened high up under the left arm and drawn across the front to @ point on the right side. A ruching of lace followed its upper edge. Another decidedly pretty and as decidedly girlish dress was of rose pink silk of a peculiarly delicate shade. A slim brunette of lovely coloring wore it. It had a plain skirt hanging in clinging folds. The bodice was half low and crossed, tho surplice folds disappearing under a wide corselet belt of pink satin embroidered with pale green and rose silks threaded with crystal beads. The decolietage and the short goft sleeve; were edged with rose-colored crepe in feathery frills. Very much in the present mode was a dress of sky blue satin worn by a handsome young matron. White point d’esprit lace veiled the skirt completely. The effect was accentuated by zigzags of narrow black lace set about in deep points. The pretty little bodice was cut with a bertha and Was covered with frills of ivory lace, each frill having a thread-like back edging. There were long sleeves frilled to the wrists. A dog collar of pearls was the principal ornament. Evening Wraps. Evening gowns need wraps to cover them, and of these luxurious garments I have lately seen two of unusual beauty. One was a pelisse of silver gray mirror velvet, to cover the entire figure. It had a nest of fox fur for the neck to snuggle into, and a band of fox fur ran down the front to the ground. There were hood-lke sleeves of the velvet coming to the elbows and open on the under side of the arm; these were fur-edged. There were also tight under- fleeves covered with heavy white lace and spreading out like gauntlets over the hands. A quaint bolero of the same lace fastened on the left side with a twist of velvet and a silver clasp set with emeralds. The sil- yer waist belt was set with emeralds also. The great roll collarihadian ivory-white brocade lining. ‘The other wrap was ancopera cape of white brocade figured withpink and gold. It had wide cape sleeves, veiled with cream lace and edged with'pale» yellow ostrich feather trimming. A wide collar of cream lace covered the shoulders. :.At the back of the neck was a huge rosette of green vel- vet, with a lace center from which a lace cascade streamed. The ends of the velvet were carried down to the waist and clasped there with diamonds. ;fhere were pale yel- low roses in the lace boa. The cape was lined throughout with green. A Bit of Econs$my. A bit of economy that 2 good many clever women: are practicing, is the rehabilitation turquoise. days of radicul changes to pack away one’s with the shirring string run through the middle. The low bodice is generally cut round at what is in it. The only baking powder having a statement of its composition on the leveland’s Baking Powder This is a satisfaction to house- keepers and a safeguard against Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. the neck. There is no return to the perfect round of a winter or two ago, but the pre- vailing shape is, if you wil permit such a description, a square rounded at the cor- ners, Details of the Toilet. The dainty mulls, tulles:and gauzes over colored slips, so much in evidence all sum- mer, are well worth a little freshening. There will be nothing prettier this winter for small dances for young girls. One of the most effective new blouses I have seen is of a delicate shade of blue glace. It is laid in fine tucks at the yoke and has a Medici collar of mauve velvet overlaid with cream-colored guipure and softened inside with white chiffon. A chif- fen fichu is tied lightly in front, the ends reaching below the waist. There is a short bolero of mauve velvet and guipure. The sleeves are of shirred glace, with shoulder frills of chiffon run with the narrowest of mauye velvet ribbon, For daylight wear all fur costumes are growing constantly in favor. An extreme- ly smart one is of Persian lamb, with a band of ermine edging the plain gored skirt. The short coat is cut in points at the bot- tom and opens on a pointed ermine vest. The sleeves have wide ermine cuffs and there is a tabbed ermine collar. A small round hat of the same fur and a muff can be added. ELLEN OSBORN. — — A MUTUAL RULE. For Evening Wear Capes Are More Popu- lar Than Ever. Those of Far Are So Short as to Be Little More Than Collarettes —Winter Coats. Written for The Evening Star. In the face of repeated predictions to the contrary when the season opened, the cape refuses to be downed, and is very much in evidence in spite of tailor-made gowns and severe cloth jackets. It is a comfortable and convenient garment when long, and especially adapted for reception and calling gowns when short; therefore it is much worn, although it is safe to say that no woman who wishes to be very well dressed and who is obliged to study economy will buy a cape for her only outdoor garment. If she can have but one it must be a coat. If you have a cape which has done duty for two or three seasons, be it either long or short, full or scanty, do not put it by; it is probabiy quite as up-to-date as one you would buy from the best house. For there seems to be no settled rule, except that younger women usually wear a coat tor waiking or with a street gown, and only wear the short capes suitable for afternoon and reception gowns, and older women may wear, if they wish, a cape twenty-six inches long for a walking or driving garment, and short capes with re- ception gowns as well. When one discovers by careful measurements that the sweep of capes worn varies from 110 to 145 inches, and the length from 12 to 26, and even 36 inches in fur, it is evident that almost any style is permissible. To be sure, the very latest capes are not 145 inches in sweep, as a rule, yet one or two very expensive and very smart capes were that width, and although there is a wide latitude between 12 and 26 inches, yet it is observed that most capes are shorter than 18 inches, or about 24 inches long; between 18 inches and 24 there is a blank which is not used as the ending of the very newest length of cape. Materials and Trimmings. Capes are either of very rich material or are elaborately trimmed. Sometimes they are both. The cloth capes are of smooth, heavy cloth, either braided to such an ex- tent that the ground js hardly: visible, or regular patterns of flowers and leaves are appliqued. Some fashionable fur, very of- ten Alaska sable, is used down the front, Self-Respect of Mistresses and Maids in Housekeeping. From Harper's Bazar. The best rule for managing servants is a twofold one, simple in {dea—complex enough, but still possible in practice: Teach your servant self-respect, and keep your own, For instance, a pleasant room to sleep in, a nice kitchen with plenty of serviceable cocking utensils, good brooms, ample tow- els and dusters, fixed duties and regalar hours; these give and keep up self-respect in a willing handmaid, be she cock or waitress. She learns to call your house her home, truly, and to take a pride in her work, On your own side an even temper, a pleasant but firm oversight of necessary matters, a systematic pian of housekeey! ing—all these keep up the mistress’ celf- respect in dealing with her household staff. As soon as you feel that you have heen careless, or that you have lost your temper in a trying moment, you realize that a false position exisis, that endangers your self-respecting relation with your maid; just as she feels, when her room is wretch- ed, her tools out of order, her hours of work irregular and her training neglected, that her standard is confused and de- graded. The ideal mistress is always self-respect- ing, and, having provided the escentials of self-respecting service, may reasonabiy ex- pect the ideal maid to live up to the cp- portunity. Ideals are perhaps never fully | and on the collar. All capes. by the way, realized, but this 1 ideal must be| have only one collar, which {s mate to kept in view if improvement, however stand up in a storm s of yore. But two gradual, in household service is desired. | Collarettes, or double or t iple capes, im- Tt asy to remember; try it, and see if it mediately prociaim last season's fanc even the season before that. The very latest cloth cape is tied in so as te give a doiman effect in the back, while the sides and front hang perfectly free, and are almost as full as the old “mili- tary” cape. This fitted belt in the back makes the cape warmer, but it is not suit- Nor has it become women as it was ex- ected to be. Another variation of this pe really has a fitted back, although no change is made in front or sides. It comes in cloth, silk or velvet, and a few furriers have tried it in Persian lamb, thinking to add to the warmth of the garment by do- ing so. It has added to the warmth, but not to the popularity of the capes ‘thus treated. A cape of royal purple velvet with three rows of Alaska sable around it Is very handsome, and a much more artistic finish to a velvet gown than a velvet blouse would be. Indeed, the velvet blouse bids un itself to death in its bid for Black bengaline or black vel- vet capes, braided, and trimmed with je:, are shown as visiting garments or carriage wraps for stately women who begin to show under their bonnets the touch of De- cember's snows. The short reception capes are not only of richest materials, richly trimmed, but the Mnings are of the gayest, brightest and of- ten most expensive silks. One of black satin, with sable tails and heavy jet, both used upon its short but elaborate xtent, | had a izing of magenta taffeta, with two Tows of knife-pleated ruffies, to give a does not oil the wheels of your home ma- chinery, Queer Occupations for Women. From the Chicago Times-Herald. Mrs. Barotti, a Chicago woman, makes a good income by conducting a nut-crack- blishment. Mrs. Barottl’s place of s ig known to all confectioners and street venders. Her business is now boom- ill increase until after the 3 Her esta! fainent consists of a long, narrow room. Down the center of it extends a long table surrounded by men, women and children. In front of each per- son is a square iron slab with nuts piled high on one side ‘of it. Each worker has a hammer and hammers aw from morning until night. Skill is required to extract the meats without breaking them. A good nut- cracker can crack about sixteen pounds of nuts a day. They are paid about $2 a day. In the busy season Mrs. Barotti employs from thirty to fifty hands. An enterprising Philadeiphia woman has a novel manner of converting her muscle into cash. She is an expert in floor clean- ing. Kitchen floors are her specialty. Kitch- en floors nowadays are made of hard wood or tile or they are covered with oflcloth or linoleum. An expert can clean them with great rapidity. This woman can clean the average ficor in half un hour, and her charges are 25 cents. She carries her own able for young wom: as popular with older P From the Cleveland Plain Dealer. “You women,” said Mr. Turlingham, “are always making fools of yourse over your superstit! ou worrying: just bec: ened to spill a little salt. it's ridiculous. Perfectly ridiculous “Oh, yes,” Mrs. Turlingham replied, “I suppose it is. But I've never known it to are, Why, happen yet, without making me quarrel with somebody. I've noticed it a@ thousand times.” “A thousand times, your grandmother What's the use of exaggerating things lk: that? I'll bet you never spilled salt twen. ty tmes in your hfe, and if you quarrele: oe doing it it just happened so, that’s a Perhaps it just happened, the very thing that worries m: | Wont it to happen. And as far superstitious is concerned, I guess you're just about as bad as the next one. Didn't you have to spit over your right arm and hop three times around an imaginary cir- cle, when you saw the new moon over left shoulder the other night?” I did that because you made such a blamed fuss about it. “Oh, yes, it’s well enough to try to blame it all on me, but I guess you wouldn't have |done it if you hadn’t been afraid your- it. Well, that’s what a fellow ing a fool of himself to please his wife.” “It seems to me you are som willing to make a fool of yoursé me, but you are never willing thing else to please me. “Oh, of course not! Why, I’m the most horrible wretch that a woman ever prom- ised to love, cherish and ob: “Henry Turlingham, I want you to un- derstand that I didn’t promise to obe “You did!” “No, I didn't; When the preacher said that I didn’t repeat it “It's all the same. It’s part of the mar- riage service. “1 don’t care. There is no reason why a Wife should have to obey when the hus- band isn't compelled to do so. “There isn’t, eh? Why, most wot fools. They : acim “Yes, I know that, getung married.” “Oh, well, go on! Of course you've got to have the last word. A man mig’ well try to reason with a donk try to get a woman to take a of anything. Confound it, 1 wish 1 could throw set out of this foreves Then he grabbed up hi away without kissmg woman good-bye, lingham threw buried her f. “I kn-knew but that’s I don’t being get mak- to do any- os They prove it by sometimes. down everything and hat and hurried the t little after which Mrs. Tur- herself upon the lounge, ce in the pillows and sobbed: the moment I sp-spilied the salt that I would quarrel with body! It ne-never f-f-f-fuils! B-o-0-o-0- 0-0: ——-———+0+. The Vanishing Quaker. From Lippincett’s. Only lately have Philadelphians begun to realize and refiect upon the disappear- ance of the Quakers as we knew them; only lately has it been brought home to us that a gradual obliteration of the old uncom- promising orthodoxy has set in whic means the ultimate absorption of the sect. Even now, rare as is the old garb on the streets where it was such a common sight not 80 many years ago, the assertion that the society is diminishing would meet with doubt and hesitation. We are so familiar with the Quaker, he is so necessary and potent a type in Phils a, that we would not ‘accept the even of statistics, yet, Visible limit has been reached, what can we do but awake to the change? We see few broad- brimmed hats and drab bonnets where we «nce saw many; of those who wear them, the most are old and trembling. If there are young Quakers, how are we to recog- nize them? Not by their dress, at any rate, except in so far as plainness of cut and’ sobriety of coler still rule the taste of Friends, whether wealthy or in moderate circumstances; the distinctive costume is beirg laid aside, with many of the distinc- tive customs. And why? Because the society is losing its control over its younger members? because its rigid rules no lon- ger suffice to hold in check the human spirit, with its unconquerable love of fr: tools, soaps and cloths. For.each customer she has a certain half hour on a certain day. She earns from $3 to $4. day. Many women are now making good incomes as professional mend: Their chief cus- tomers are men. They have regular days for each client. They sew on buttons, darn stockings, brush clothes, and the experts are able to sponge and press clothes as well as any tailor, at a reduced price. They bave certain boards and irons for the pur- pose. frou-frou as one handled card case or purse, or moved one’s arms to any extent. These ruffles were on the edge of the cape, ¢r as near as they could be without show. ing when the garment was at rest. Be- ruffled linings are very dainty and add to the luxuriousness of the garment. An Economical Cape. A clever woman who has lost a largo share of the patrimony which she once Possessed, but who has a supply of brains and enough ingenuity to compensate for the worldly advantages of her acquaint- ances, kas just fashioned a cape of an old green broadcloth skirt. Although the color is uniform it is a “coat of many pieces. She has trimmed it elaborately with black A Bodice Too Much. From Pearson's Weekly. A funny little story is told of a certain lady who was one of a Saturday-to-Monday house party in a country house recently. braid, and it has taken some clever design- ing to make a pattern which would conceal the seams. It has been done, however, ana the result is all one could wish for, and no one would suppose that the outlay in actual money was very small. For evening wear capes are more popular than ever, and coats will never take their Place—it is to be hoped—when it comes to @ garment for opera, theater or carrlage wear. Bright red, braided with black and lined with fur, is most effective for a the- ater wrap, and will be all the more fetch- ing if there is a red bonnet or little toque of the same shade to wear above it. Short capes and bonnets or even hats to match are quite the fad of the hour in Paris. She took her maid with her, bu: on the first evening of her visit the hostess sent her own attendant to help her dress for dinner. The tollette was almost completed, when the hostess sent for the maid. The guest said she could finish dressing alone, and the maid went away. hen the guest missed the bogice of her gown. It was nowhere to be found. Evidently it had been left behind. z The dinner hour arrived. She was keep- ing the others waiting. She is a woman of resource. On the bed lay a white crepe shawl. She picked it up, .hrew it about her shoulders, pinned it here and there, ani sailed down to dinner in a togu-like garment—with the. bodice of her dinner gown dangling behind her fram the waist- band hooks to which the ma{a had attacked with ermine. It is the old dolman shape, shown in pictures of girls who were in their teens in the sixties, long in the back, dom? This is the common explanation, and the ore desired by those who love romance. —_+o+—___ She Had Lost It. From Pearson's Weekly. An old woman whose husband was ill in bed sent for the doctor, who came and saw the old lady. “I will send him some medicine,” he said on leaving, “which must be taken in a recumbent posture.” After he had gone the old woman sat down, greatly puzzled. “The recumbent posture—a recumbent posture!” she kept repeating. “I haven't got one.” At last she thought, “I will go and see if old Mrs. Smith has got one to lend me.” Accordingly she went and said to her neighbor: “Have you a recumbent posture to lend me to put some medicine in? Mrs. Sm‘th, who was equally as ignorant her friend, replied. had one, but to tell you the truth 4 have lost it.” "A. SIMONSON 933 Broadway, 21st & 22d Sts., NEW YORK CITY. The Oldest, Largest and Most Reliable Human Hair Goods Emporium in America. Established since 1858. | g h J l i if £ i HH ! | | | i r Hi u [ 5 iy §