Evening Star Newspaper, August 21, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, AUGUST v1, 1897—24 15 LIGHT GOWN FOR EARLY C To Her Majesty te Reval as Imperial Fasnly, FALL. FOR INDIAN SUMMER ——— European Styles by a Noted Modeler Designed for Amgrigans. SOME FASHION PROGNOSTICS — + —_ Rich Trimmings in Skirts and Bod- ices for Early Fall. POPULARITY OF WAISTS Special Correspondence of ‘The Evening Star. BERLIN, August 10, 1897. Our model is designed especially for the American Indian summer, the fame of which is extended the world over. The color combination of changeabie moss green and bright blue is suggestive of nature's aspect when she dons her richest, most variable while bidding farewell to cur admiring gaze before she retires to rest. The skirt of our mo illustrates ‘the tendency toward trimmings, which bids fair to increase as the y advances, in spite of the long-lived favoritism which the plain skirt has received. This skirt has a plain, rather narrow, fomdation of bright blue foulard printed wich a scroll design in moss green, and,is lined with moss green satin. Three rows of ruilles simulate an apron overskirt with deep points in front and reaching higher at the back. Each row of ruffles consists of a wide and very full pleated ruffle of cha ble blue and green taffeta exactly matching the colors in the foulard and serving cs a backgrocnd to set off the gathered flounce of real Val- enciennes lace, head. narrow mi fold of moss zreei velvet. - of foulard extends below the of the skirt and lends the appearance of additional width to the latter. The full blose 1s of finety pleated fou S gathered in at the waist line by a belt of folded moss green velvet. A wide Bodice and Collar. s and ruffles, these s of the season, are repeated in the bodi posed of Valenciennes insertion and moss green velvet milliner’s folds, and may be lined with moss 1 satin or remain un- lined, eccording to the taste and comfort of the wearer. A ruffle of changeable taf- feta under gathered Valenciernes lace head- ed by a milliner’s fold of green velvet sur- rounds the yok». ‘The collar ef folded green velvet has at the back a ruche of lace and taffeta, and a bow of green velvet held by a handsome buckle of simi. A butterfly bow with similar by » covers the closing | of the belt at de. The tight sleeve is made d iniiiiner's fold® and like be lined or not. A puff of 1 supplies the necessary fullness xt the shoulder. 4 ruf- fle of taffeta an] lace fim: 3 the wrist. Sofe Fabrics. The yoke is com- | | ic | shades of gray, | large winter hat has a form of silver gray | chenille and felt braiding with a wide brim | and high flaring crown. The brim is raised | with narrow black the reappearance of entire gowns of beauti- ful costly patterned lace worn over a c cred foundation will be indulged in by th favored by fortune. Chantilly in various widths, appropriate for the skirt and bod- . is the lace most generally selected, al:o Irish and Venetian points. Valenciennes will fall into. disuse with the wane of the summer except for the trimming of under- clothes and elegant negliges. The newest use made of lace is in the form of vines, broader at the base and terminating in narrow tendrils at the top. ‘These vines re appliqued on, and the same design is used in miniature on the waist and slceves. On the latter the design runs upward from the wrist and finishes over the slight full- ness. The same pattern is followed out in embroidery or braiding for woolen street costumes and tailor-made gowns. The lat- ter often have the skirt front in shape of a panel or apron, outlined with passementerie or soutache braiding. The loose waist con- tinues in favor, which, of course, will ne- ceSsitate the belts of velvet, satin, or silk, a new form of which shows the closing at the back with a high rich buckle bent to fit the form. Silk and Woolen Gowns. Silk and woolen gowns are frequently trimmed with velvet, a new weave of which is called “epingle,” and looks very much like the uncut velvet of seasons past. It is so rich-looking, particularly in the favored that it will be employed considerably by the milliners. An exquisite at the back, where it is trimmed ih | knots of silver gray velours epingle, form- jing a graceful covering for the puffs into | Which the hair is arranged at the back of he head. The principal trimming of the at, however, consists of five large, full ostrich plumes of the same delicate shade of gr: and showing a beautiful and costly novelty by having the stems or quills of the plumes covered with silver gray mara® bout tufts. A large buckle of a good imi- tation of black Is set in silver and full knots of the velours epingle further adora the hat. Separate Waists. An article of dress which, in spite of all ecntrary reports and efforts of the cou- turiere seems to thrive, is the separate waist. It is too sensible a garment to be given up, and by its practicability it has tco strong a hold on the public, whatever the grande dame may wear, who drives to the theater or other places of entertain- ment, cr makes her visits in her own equi- page, hidden from puolic gaze while on the streets. ‘The new mocels for separate waists are richer than ever. For the theater they are made up mostly of chiffon, or mousseline de soie, which differs from chiffon in its being a little stiffer. One bodice of green chiffon over a close-fitting lining of green satin has a fichu of green mousseline de soie trimmed with two narrow ruffles edged velvet ribbon. This fichu crosses in front, and has the ends tucked into a plastron of black satin em- broideved in bow-knot design with green angles and silver thread. Although the throat is slightly exposed by the small decollete formed by the cressing of the fichu, a larg» embroidered black satin flaring collar rises high at the back and finishes at the sides with rosettes of the black velvet baby ribbon. Tie slecves are of black s+tia, wrinkled over a tight lin- ing, and are trimmed at the wrists and shoulders by cuffs and caps of black satin embroidered in bow knots like the plastron and collar, and lined with green satin edged with a tiny ruffle of green mousseline de soie. A pl: black satin skirt is worn with this waist. The cut and drapery of new skirts fur- ther reveals the sentiment form‘ng for plain Z soft fabrics. All stiffness in material as Well as form is discarded. Gauze, mousse- line and chiffon are shown in lavish filmy Cecorations, and for more ostentatious wear Qvtes Bister, Berlin.) Leok to Your Letters. From the Indfanapolis Journal. A yeung lady who always does every- thing nicely said recently: “What a high- bred, well-groomed looked there is about an envelope that {s properiy prepared for the mails. A little thing, of course, but one of the little things which tell. The hand- writing? No, the handwriting doesn't d for much, because each individual has his own special chirography, and it is “more characteristic that she should. But the writing on a well-looking envelope is begun far enangh to the left to be well balanced. The last word is not squeezed and crammed. ‘The addrgss, with the nume of state and city, is written in full. The stamps are evenly placed in the upper rignt-hand corner, with a slight margin left between the top of tie envelope and the edge of the stamp. The flap, too, of the Well-bred envelope is mucilaged down ih a cle. orderly manner. It is often ren- dered’ mo‘lish with sealing wax and the Sender’s monogram.” zs = If ycu want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. —— (his soul his own. Cause of Holes in Umbrel From Hardware. One of the fruitful causes of holes in the folds of an umbrella is improper care when it is wet. To roll up a wet umbrella is to invite the dyes to rot it, and one of the banes of the umbrella manufacturer 1s loaded dye on silk. Out of 100 samples of silk submitted to the writer, not over ten were pure dye, and 50 per cent of the silk thread submitted was overloaded with aye and would not stand our chemical test, ‘This is a fruitful cause of trouble in umbrelias, and our concern insists on all the silk and silk threads standing a chemical test in this respect. When over-dyed silks are wet ard the umbrellas rolled and set away, we find the owners complaining that their umbrellas are cracking in the folds. Fine holes appear and they are apt to return the umbrella to the merchant and claim damage. ————+ee. In Every Sense of the Term. From Life. “She is a decided brunette, isn’t she?” “Very. They say her husband can’t call Is a caddy atways nececsary?—Lifes a HOUSEHOLD HINTS Plain or “Red” Lemonade and Other Soft Drinks. FLOWERS FEW BUTTHE FEELING TRUE Green Grape Jelly as a Cold Meat Trimming. A CeUGe OF see TEA Written for The Evening Star. A At this season of the year there is no prettier or mere acceptable hospitality than to have always at hand cool glass- fuls of some deiicately flavored liquid to welcome the ceming and speed the part- ing guest. A “hot” evening, a “torrid” afternson, a “scorching’’ morning seem to reed the sound of clinking ice to make them endurable—and a woman with fore- sight will see that she has the means on hand to regale the palates of her visitors and family. While to the uninitiated lem- onade plain seems the Alpha and Omega of summer iced drinks—the clever woman knows that there are at least a dozen com- binations, all delicious, which demand little time, little trouble, litile expense, only knack, in their concoction. Even in the lemonade, pure and simple, there is lemonade and lemonade. Usually it is too weak and too sweet. For six thirsty people a two-quart pitcher full will be required. For this quantity five or six lemons, depending upon their juiciness, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, a quart of water and a third of a pitcher of crack- ed ice will be needed. Grate the yellow peel of the lemon, being careful to avoid the bitter white of the inner rind, and mix thoroughly through the sugar. Allow this to stand for a little time, that the essen- tial oil of the lemon may be taken up by the sugar. Squeeze the lemons into a bowl by means of the glass lemon squeezer, add the sugar and grated peel and the water. Stir well and strain over the cracked ice in the pitcher. Allow this to stand until thoroughly chilled, then serve. This may be varied by adding a few spoonfuls of any of the fruit syrups; the grated peel and juice of an orange, allowing the peel to stand with the sugar some time before using, or slices of peach or banana, cubes of pineapple, or berries. Currant’ juice, or currant jelly, dissolved in water, then added, makes a pleasing variety. While fruit syrups of various sorts may be bought at the druggists or confecticners, they may easily be prepared at home, at a tenth of the expense. Take whatever fruit is desired, cover with sugar, and stand on back of range, where it will just heat througk and no more. After a little the fruit will commence to shrivel and the sugar to dissolve, absorbing all the juice of the fruit. This may then be bottled, ready for flavoring. She was a dainty little lady, just re- turned from a long residence in Russia, and her artistic eye and deftness of touch in the arrangement of flowers had wrought marvels in the dining room and parlors of a large country house. “How do you do it?” said every one, until at last, in the cozy corner of the piazza, she gave this little monologue to a coterie of interested i “I simply love the ffowers,” she , “and I try to put them in the vases so they will seem at home. I hate to see incongruous flowers thrust in each othe society, nolens volens. 1 hate colors that swear at each other, even in flowers, and I hate stiffness and ‘artificiality. I always wish flowers to look natural and as though they could go on growing if they desired. Don't overcrowd your vases. Put the flow- ers in, a stem or leaf at a time. Don't pick a big bunch of anything, cut the stems all of one length and crowd them in. Never use more than two colors at a time in one vase, and, with the foliage, one eiher color is usually quite sufficient. A few weeks ago my husband came home and said there were a party of guests on their way to dine with us. I sent out at once for flowers for the dinner table, and received a basket of yellow chrysanthe- mums with the usual short stems. I had but a few moments to arrange them, and I thought, ‘Oh, how ugly! What can I do to make them respectable?” We usually keep moss in the cellar ready to bank flowers, but that day we had none. An in- spiration seized me, and I said to the gar- con, ‘Run to the lawn and cut me out a square of the greenest turf you can find.’ In a moment he was back with a beautiful bit of velvety turf, which I put on a low glass dish in the center of the table, and into this went my chrysanthemums, which, even with their short stems, made thus a brave showing, and elicited general ap- proval. One has always to- study effect- {ve combinations in arranging flowers. At this season, if one is in the country, the daintiest effect is given by using the deli- cate, feathery clusters of wild carrot (Queen's lace’) with ferns, either maiden- hair or the common sword or wood fern. As the tiny maple or sumac bushes begin to take on their rich autumnal coloring, the branches are simply exquisite put in a jar with golden rod or sprays of clematis. A bowl of clover, red or white, with its own leaves for the green, is always pretty and effective. Make the most of what you find about you; use grasses of all sorts— the glossy leaves of the pear, the tendrils of the wild grape, the soft purple blossoms of the thistle—but study nature for their arrangement.” This is the time to put up the green grape jelly whose delicious tartness adds piquancy to the winter’s bill of fare. To make it wash one gallon green grapes, just cover with water till soft enough to mash, pour into a jelly bag and drain over night. Allow to each pint of juice one pound of granulated sugar, which should be put in a pan in the oven to heat, taking care that it does not scorch. When the juice comes to a boil stir in the heated sugar, removing the spoon as soon as it is well dissolved. Boil rapidly ten minutes, and pour into glasses. When perfectly cold, seal. Com- mon writing -paper with the white of an egg for mucilage makes the best covering, and if this is supplemented by a layer of cotton wadding tied closely over the top the housewife may snap her fingers at bac- teria. A delicious grape for jelly is the wild fox grape that grows luxuriantly along our northern country roads, as well as in the “forests primeval.” In caring for ordinary table silver re- member that if washed in plenty of soap and hot water and rubbed with a dry, soft towel, each time, it will not ordinarily re- quire clearing oftener than once a month. When, however, the time comes for clean- ing, the following methcd stands approv- ed: Wash in hot suds and wipe in order to remove all oll. Cover a table or larze tray with thick paper. Take tine French whiting, which has been sifted. Put a por- tion ina saucer, and wet with diluted al- cohol or ammonia, allowing a tablespoonful of alcohol or half a tablespoonful of am- monia to four of water, Wet a soft cloth with the mixture, rub of silver and spread on paper to dry. When all is finished rub the whiting off the silver with a soft cheesecloti, then polish with chamois, For chased work a soft brush will be found essential. If siiver tarnishes quickly it is almost proof positive that there are poisonous gases in the house, and drain and gas Pipes should be carefully inspected. One of the nicest colorings for creams and ices, when a pink tinge is desired, may be obtained from the poke-berry. which is just now showing its deeply crim- soned berries along the country roadsides. Put the berries in a granite or porcelain basin, and cover with water.- Cook slow- ly until the skins break, then straix. Al- low a pound of sugar to each pint of juice, cook a few moments, then bottle. Nothing is easier to make than a perfect cup of tea, and nothing on the culinarv roster is so frequently abused in the mak- ing it is not uncommon to find even old housekeepers so carele: and indifferent that the tea is thrown into the pot with a “gvess” instead of a meaeure, is allowed to boil instead of infuse, the water is over boiled or below the boiling point, and the teapot is allo to stand with tea grounds in it froni oné méal to the next. ° To make tea as it should be scald the teapot and stand on back of range. ‘While’ individual tastes differ os to the strength of tea, a good gereral rule to follow is to allow one teaspoonful of tea to every three cups. Have the tea kettle filled with fresh water and when just boiling (unmistakably so), pour on the tea. Never use water below the boiling point, water that has boiled more than once or water that has overboiled. Allow the tea to brew on back of range from three ive minutes. When the meal is finished, empty out the tea grounds, rinse the pot in clear water, scaid out thoroughly and set away to dry with the cover raised, in order to admit the air. = 2 A little sermon on thoroughness was that preached lately by a Wdy Irish maid. Commended by her mistress for remem- bering to clean the fixtures of a hanging lamp in the dining room, “Sure,” she said, “[T had to. After the windows and pic- tures was washed, they began a laughing at the lamp, an’ I had'to give that a taste, too.” ‘The best-behaved sait shakers have now gone on their usual August strike, and the most drastic measures required to bring them into subjection. If the fine ta- ble salt is dried out in the oven, then mixed with a tenth part of cornstarch, the mois- ture will be absorbed and a free delivery insured. A glass of hot milk and a few peanuts make a good luncheon before retiring. Very few housekeepers have any idea how much nicer tomatoes and cucumbers are when oil is used in the dressing. Put the oil on a plate with sufficient salt and Pepper to season the salad, then, with a knife, press the mixture till the salt is all dissolved. Pour over the salad and toss it about till covered with the oil and place in the ice box for an hour. Just on serving, toss about again and squeeze over it the juice of one lemon, and, toss, then serve. It is said that French women use starch in their bath water instead of borax or ammonia, with most’ satisfactory results. Nearly all canned meats make nice salads, excepting corned beef. Remove the chicken, turkey, shrimp or salmon from the can, carefully drain off the oil and pro- ceed to make into salad after your ap- proved recipe. This idea 1s for the woman who likes to press flowers: A German scientist claims that the colors of pressed flowers can be preserved by pressing them between sheets of paper that have been saturated with a solution of 1 per cent of oxalic acid in 100 parts water. The cause of the loss of color he claims to be due to the presence of am- monia in the air, and the oxalic acid coun- teracts this. Left-over boiled potato makes up nicely into a side dish. Butter a baking dish and mince in a layer of potatoes, which salt a little. Sprinkle over them a layer of dry cracke> or bread crumbs. Over this put salt, pepper and bits of butter, two layers of potatoes and two of crumbs, the top being crumbs, are sufficient. Over the top pour a gill of sweet cream or milk and bake in a hot oven. It is asserted by those who have given both methods a fair trial that brain work- ers should eat meat. Rare roast beef and juicy steaks, butter and cream! It is said that nothing else will fuel the brain fur- nace so well as beef, and that eges are next in value. People of sedentary occupa- ticn are urged to eschew starchy vegetables or those with much sugar. ———— Freighting on Electric Roads. From the Country Gentleman. The elevated roads of Chicago are going to carry cabbages in the hope of earning a dividend. At present these enterprises, representing the investment of many mill- fons of eastern capital, are earning nothing for the investers. A big plan, now nearly consummated, looks ta the combination of all the varicus elevated lines of the city with the Metropolitan Traction Company, which has just secured, by a very ques- tionable grant of the, Cook county board, franchises for surface tro!ley lines on the principal roads of the county, reaching out to all the suburbs from a dozen to fifteen miles from the city’s, genten. This will give the cousoldated company upward of 200 miles of electric lines, most of it through a sparsely settled (as com- pared with the ordinary city suburb) coun- try, containing numerous, factories and shops, and thousands, of farms and mar- ket gardens. The Lake. street elevated passes directly through the great wholesale fruit and produce distrigt of the city, which may be likened,to lower Broadway of Albany or Washington. street in New York. It is propesed to build suitable ter- minals, with elevators and storage were- houses, ‘and operate the roads at night mainly as a freight road. No: only agri- cultural produce, byt ali -kinds of light freight and express matter, will be carried, to the considerable injury of the steam railroad lines, which have heretofore mo- nopolized the busine: To the farmers and gardeners, however, the change will work an immense benefit, as they can send in their produce fresh from the ground, with a minimum of wag- on hauling, and Geliver it in the market in six hours after gathering. It is quite with- in the limits of possibility, if not a matter of necessity, that market buildings or store houses will be built somewhat on the plan of the Paris halles, for the handling and preservation of produce. Whether the various branches of the market business—meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, etc.—will ever be brought together in Chicago, as in other cities, is a matter of considerable doubt, as Chicagoans are the €xact reverse of Philadelphians—they will not “go to market.” ——+00— Story of a War Song. From the Windom, Minn., Reporter. The man who composed the music fer Whittier’s song, “We Are Coming, Father Abraham, Three Hundred Thousand Strong,” is an old and somewhat decrepit piano tuner. who carries on his business in this part of Minnesota. His name is A. B. Irving. One day soon after -Lincoln’s call for 300,000 more men Irving, then a young man, was on his way to Defiance, Ohio, from Fort Wayne for the purpose of sing- ing at a political and loyal meeting. He had considerable reputation as a composer and singer, and the republicans had asked him to come and help them. On the way he read the poem, which had just been published. Irving studied it, formulated a tune, hummed it and got the rhythm, and that evening at the Defiance meeting he song the sorg for the first time. When he had finished and the last echoes had died away men mounted their chairs with wild enthusiasm, swung their hats and broke lcose in cheers that rang with feeling. He sang it again and again, and they could scarcely let him rest. The next night he sang the song at Fort Wayne, and again aroused the same enthusiasm. He wrote out the music ard sent it to the publisher who had handled what he had composed, with instructions to publish it on his usual terms of royalty. It was published, and inside of a month more than 40,000 copies had been sold. In a few days the publisher failed, and Irving never received a dollar for the music. eee In_Philadelphia. From Puck. The Resident Burglar—‘I'm afraid we won't have time to get through this job tenight.” se His Visiting Collab “It's nearly halt-p: folks haven't gone to; “Why not?” clock, and the From Collier's Weekly. Papa—“So Emily her class in French? a Mamma—“Yes. Shee! and another girl were exactly even in the written examina- thixt Emily shrug- orrectly. tions, but it was deci ged her shoulders mofe c: ‘ The Spart@ ee DA “Go forth, my. =and {f you don’t beat: that Polyandros boytin the games, remem: ber I shall await thy return with loosened MORE VIVID COLORS The Approach of Autumn Brings Brilliant Tints and Shades. THE CHANGES IN HAT STYLES Some Striking Costumes Seen at the Fashionable Resorts. WHITE IS ALWAYS POPULAR peered (Copsright, 1897, by the Bachelor Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of ‘The Evening Star. NEW YORK, August 18, 1897. As midsummer passes insensibly into late summer, the haze of August blurring the transition, the pale blues, the rose tints and the mauves that have filled the pros- pect brighten io more vivid shades. There is a certain brilliant yellow that starts into sight, usually on hats, every year jusi about as the goldenrod gets well into blos- som. The crimsons and scarlets that are due regularly six weeks before the leaves turn are already in evidence in the shape of smart red cleth jacket bedices to be slipped over thin dresses when a warm day cools toward night, like the waning of a summer resort flirtation. White does not cease to be desirable as summer ap- proaches its cl but, instead of delicate peach tints and pale watery greens, china blue, black, gold, grass green and cherry are attracted to it as its accessorie There are no very radical changes in cut or trimming to be noted in the first dresses for early autumn, but rather an elabora- tion of already current ideas. Gold tinsel is covering a multitude of sins, but its charity fa that respect could have been predicted from the first announcements of the jubilee program in London. The visit of eastern potentates to the west leaves behind always a trail of dressmakers’ jew- elry and gold. Braiding is very much to the fore for the decoration of cloth dresses, especially braiding in a coarse silk cori, copicl from last century materials and forming a design completely round the skirt, often of great complexity. Changes in Hats. The newest hats are worn well back upon the head, to show the hair, and contrast boldly in this respect with the early sum- mer headgear tilted over the eyes. Bon- nets for early autumn have bell crowns, and are trimmed about the brim with lace or embroidery. An erect plume of feathers on one side balances bows on the other. Taffeta ribbon is still pre-eminent, and the finger width is enough for a bow. For sea- side or country wear in late August or Sep- tember the Pat.ama hat Is driving the sail- or off the field. Flowers or half handker- chiefs of bright silk furnish the trimming. The sailor hat, so far as it survives, has to abandon its stiff decorum and the severe simplicity of its plain ribbon band. Its crown, as metamorphosed, is lost under puffings of chiffon or dotted net, and its brim is laden with hollyhocks or poppies. September millinery runs a good deal to leghorns. An extremely quaint and pictur- esque hat that I saw yesterday was a large leghorn twined up in the back with long strezmers of black velvet to loop under the chin. Spikes of scarlet cardinal flowers with green leaves stuck out from the curves of the pliant brim and were laid about the crown. For Out of Doors. Some very pretty late summer frocks ap- peared at an out-of-doors fe:e a few days ago at Southampton, Long Island. A red and white striped silk was most effective. The ground was white with narrow per- pendicular bars of crimson. The skirt was cut up on the left side t> show a simulated underskirt covered with narrow white glace frills. There was a bolero bodice with a horizontally frilled white glace front and revers of crimson. The frillings were car- ried across the back and were arranged to give the usual look of width at the should- ers. Perfectly plain coat sleeves were used, with a crimson and white silk vest and high lace collar. The hat was a large, soft white straw trimmed with black ostrich plumes. The parasol of crimson and white silk, like the skirt, was edged with black and white lace frills. Equally noticeable was a China blue and white muslin in half-inch stripes running about the skirt horizontally. On the white stripe was a design of forget-me-nots and roses. Below the hips on either side were set side pieces of plain blue muslin in “‘sun- ray” kiltings extending to the ground. These gavé a decidedly original touch sto the costume. The blouse bodice was worn under a little square-cornered bolero of blue glace silk edged with a narrow ruffie. There were the usual tight sleeves, shoulder frills and high neck ruchings. The large hat was of white straw trimmed with blue- bells and white feathers. A very beautiful dress was a soft silver gray cloth, the skirt of which was cut close-fitting in front, with all the fullness thrown into double bo pleats behind. A. delicate tracery pattern in silver braid was carried about the hem and about the basque of the moujik jacket, which turned over in a Medici collar and brogd revers reaching the waist line. These were faced with white satin and covered with silver passe- menterie. The vest of white silk was tuck- ed horizontally, and had at the throat that little touch of black. chiffon without which in the eyes of many people no summer ‘| dress is reckoned quite so pretty as it might be. A white lace parasol was carried. For a Yachting Breakfast. Gpen-meshed red canvas draped over red taffeta was the material of a quaintly beautiful frock worn at a country place on the banks of fhe Hudson. ‘Two narrow frills of red mousseline de sole were set about the skirt, with a consider- | black feiPhers. The slender brunette who wore this costume was like a tropic butter- fly in its rich glancing tones. ‘A green foulard dress was worn at Man- hattan Beach yesterday, figured with quaint hicroglyphics in white. A band of Trish lace insertion was set about the skirt, which had no other trimming. The plain bodice was gathered into a narrow belt and worn under a rudimentary bolero of Irish lace over white satin edged with green. The piain tight sleeves were of lace and the hat was a white chip trimmed with pink hollyhocks and white wings. White Serge and Pique. White serge dresses are coming to the front in brilliant style. There is nothing prettier for country wear in early Septem- ber. A recent example has a plain skirt with narrow gold braid outlining the seams. A modified moujik jacket is edged with double rows of gold braid up and down the fronts and about the basque and co!l- lar. More braid is carried about the arm- hole and along the outer side of the sleeve. The jacket opens upon a white silk vest laid in fine tucks. A folded sash of green glace silk repeats a color note found in the hat, which is of white Leghorn straw trim- med with white chiffon and green ribbo: White pique dresses will hold their own for some time to come. Bands of red and blue Russian embroidery are much favored for trimming them. Foulard will be worn until October, and very dainty princess dresses are being made in that material. Among the earliest autumn wraps are cloth capes, whicly are longer and fuller than last season's. They have upstanding collars and are lined with silk and trim- med usually with braiding. ELLEN OSBORN. es MARKETING IN PARIS. People Buy in Homeopathic ties in Many Different P Pauline Cushing in Zioa’s Herald. As it is more and more the tendency among Americans to select some specialty of profession, the same proclivity is dis- played here in a rude way among provi- ston dealers. The butcher sells only beef, mutton and lamb. The tripier has sole claim to the head, brains, liver, heart, feet, ete. If one wishes fowl, he must go to the fruitier, and there are others who have the monopoly of game. If two men hire a store in the same building the goods of one cannot be like those of his neighbor. With this brief suggestion of the divisions it is easy to see that marketing becomes some- thing-more than giving an order over a telephone wire. The streets in the morning are quite filled with women making their daily pur- chases. Nearly every woman carries a basket or net bag. Since fruit and vege- tables seldom have paper the latter dis- closes much of her bill of fare. Being obliged to go to each store she generally carries her groceries. But they may be delivered by a boy who -balances a fiat basket on his head and often reads a news- paper on his way. He would make a good messenger boy! The greater part of trad- ing is done outside the store at low coun- ters, or with street venders. To their carts is attached a harness which either mon- sieur or madame slips over the shoulders. ‘The women’s voices, as they call their wares, are fearfully vibrant and heavy. Those must have been terrible sounds given by the starving market women when they assailed the palace at Versailles. The loud cry of one, advertising her goods, makes the stranger shudder. Other women, in contrast to these, are those who sell fish in the great wholesale markets. They are rich. They wear a bonnet with real lace, and true diamonds glitter on their unclean, odorous hands. Their dress is of excellent material cov- ered with a white apron. The baker, with a suit of white, is pat- ronized for bread, at least by nearly every family in Paris. It is found in all shapes and varieties. Just before it is taken from the oven steam is turned in upon it, giving a very brown crust. It is said that France has been famed for its bread since the seventeenth century. It seems very possi- ble, if one were to judge the date of the make from the hardness of its crust! The French breakfast consists of a roll and a cup of coffee. These were our first senti- ments about the custom: Young sister Pauline Went to the cuisine ‘To get her poor self some food. But when she got there The cuisine was bare, A study, as ‘twere, in the nude! The workmen, who have twelve hours a day of labor, take a roll or two for the second meal as well, with a supplement at “the seller of wines.” Children at play eat bread as “young America” eats candy and chews gum. Passers-by carry bread, without a wrapping, under the arm or in work aprons, or a child measures his jength with a long, narrow stick of it. A partial loaf has often with it one thick slice added to make the we'ght exact. But it must be a fastidious person who in- sists on having his bread done up in paper! +o+-—___ Why a Swelling Follows a Blow. From ‘he Philadelphia Times. ‘The swelling which follows from a blow is nature's effort to protect the part from further injury and to keep it at rest while repair is going on. What actually takes place at the seat of injury is not even now quite understood. The injury to the small- er blood vessels interferes with the flow of blood through them and the white corpus- cles, with part of the serum, the watering part of the blood, escape into the surround- ing tissues. At the same time the blood vessels in the neighborhood dilate and the increased flow of blood with the thorough- fare obstructed increases the swelling. it is probable that the white corouszles of the blood pass into the tissues to arsist in the repair, as bees or ants assemble at an injury to their storehouse, but with this difference, that the substance of the ccr- puscles. is probably converted into the tis- sue of repair. From one point of view the human body is only one gigantic colony of individuals, and the swelling that follows injury but the rush of these to repair the was edged with an almost A Victorian bonnet, not type, was worn, of red drawa muslin, FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN As summer wanes, brighter colors come to the front. Red, which strikes too glar- ingly on the eye on a blazing July day, be- comes a thing of beauty as the days grow shorter. Red hat bands, red belts, ped thes, ped stocks and red shirt waists, red Stockings—almost red shoes —show the trend of fancy for bright hués. Of read golf coats I spoke last week, and red stockings I will modify by adritting that usually they are a plaid of red and bright green, and are especially liked with tan shoes. Immaculate white duck grows ‘n favor as the tie for thin lawns grows shorter. With the white duck coat and skizt a belt of red leather, fastening a silk shirt waist of red of the same shade, is very much favored. With this should be worn a white sailor with a red band, the stockings men- Uoned above and tan or ox-blood shoes. Now that a line of white next the skin is recognized as fashionable as well as artis- tic, never be beguiled into donning a red shirt st, Or any red gown, which has not this line of white as a finish for the neck. The red stocks have a narrow, hem- stitched lawn collar falling over them a narrow knife pleating of white the whoi: way round. Or a linen collar with turned over edge and red tie underneath may worn. This white finish is an wearing red if one wishes to get Uh effeci, but it is also a det: membering, no matter y in best 1 well worth r what color blue, combined with red, are old favorites, but’ this year white or some other pale color is also added to relieve the somberness—unless one is a very dark brunette with an olive skin vy blue waist of white, and’ red tie, with white facings, coliar and tie, are tions. wht plaids are high ir favor also, and all nature will be surprised and some- What taken aback when she finds upon don- ning her autumn dress that the summer girl is her rival in the field. Golf capes, with plaid linings and hoods, plaid hat bands, plaid stockings, already enumerated, Plaid neckties, not too wide, however; plaid silk waists, and even plaid belts. A very effective little costume in a smail plaid or check, made of silk of course, is cne of the newest skirts, slender over the hips, flaring at the bottom, and otherwise perfectly plain, and a silk shirt waisi of the same, with white collars and cuffs and a four-in-hend tie of the goods. The plaid shirt waists of madras have al- most disappeared. In thinner material they still remain, but are not as satisfac- tory as a striped or plain shirt waist. It Will be noticed that a piaid silk waist can be worn by almosi any one of medium size without adding to the apparent breadth and taking from the apparent shapeliness. The ends of chiffon veils must not be con fined i€ one would be strictly en regale. They must be allowed to float in every Passing breeze. In enumerating the colors, either gay or subdued, upon which fashion has set her seal, gray should rot be forgotten, as it really comes first upon the list. ‘In the spring it was a gray gray—if one may use that term—and not particularly p look upon. New it is a pale gray shade which makes cne think at on combining white with it, and the two ors may be se=n together in every way of rea, vy blue, trimmings and white also striking combina- ol and manner. This is fortunate, for to many gray alone, or with black, is most trying, while gray lightened with white can be worn by even those drab-colored people who take so pissionate a delight in the mouse-colored hues they should carefully avoid. MABEL BOYD. The Old Piano Harbored a Nest of Wasps. From the San Antonio Express. The piano was an old Steinway grand. It had not been used for months. The company had arrived in town but a short time before the performance began, hence there had been no time to test the instru- ment. Nevertheless, the professor boldly opened wide the lids of the long unused grand and then sat down to the keys. The first touch convinced him that the notes were still clear and strong, and that what- ever defects in tune there might be would be very slight, so he began the soul-inspir- ing selection. Now, it happened that in all the months in which the piano had remained unused a colony of yellow jacket wasps had in- dustriously built themselves a home in the shape of a nest as large as a good-sized saucer. The soft pianissimo prelude to tho selection gently woke the wasps from their sweet dreams. But when the soft pedal was released and the notes grew vigorous and the piano began to reverberate to the heavier passages, the disturbed wasps sus- pected danger. They curled their backs and stretched and shook their gauzy wings viciously. But the professor, unheedful of the fact that the music, far from soothing the savage breast of ‘the vicious wasps ambushed within that piano, was rousing their ize, played on. From ‘pianissimo to piano and from piano with one bound to fortissimo the composition ran. All the while the wasps fluttered their wings wick- viciously, and all the while the pro- Now came the climax; now he was throwing together vast handfuls of notes in the basso profundo region of the irstrument. Just as the Steinway grand was belching forth from its innermost soul the musical thunder of that great Wagne- rian opera, the vengeance-hunting army of yellow jacket wasps swept out of the belch- ing instrument, with a buzzing war song, Gown the hallway and upon the audience. Suddenly soul-rending shricks resounded through the hall. Men and women were striking about their heads. Benches were yset and a general stampede for windows and doors ensued. Over the terrible uproar a shrill, piping voice could be heard shriek- ing: “Sharlie, come mit! Ach du lieber Gott! Sharlie, come mit!” Long before the outraged burghers of Kerrville were up a litte band of men with baggage galore wended their way out of town and sat down on the railway track. ‘They were the stereoptico-musical aggere- gation of San Antonio, and their faces, as they recounted the horrors through which they had passed, were the image of that of Napeleon on the night of Waterloo. They flagged the .outh-bound passenger train and took passage for San Antonio. Their wisdom in slipping out of town under cover of night has never been questioned. Not Speaking for the Remote Future, From the Philadelphia North American. Felix—“Do you mean that you can never be mine, Angeline?” Angeline—“Well, I won't go so fa’ that, Mr. Turndown. I am going to mar but one never knows, you know. From the Cincinnat! Enquirer. “What is the use of going to Kiondike?” asked the magnate. “There is enough money in ice right here at home. ———_+ e+ —___ = Musical. From Harper's Bazar. He—“When you were abroad, Miss Parve , how did you like’the Matterhorn?” She—“I—I don’t believe I heard it.” ipl a Sone “I don’t believe Longfellow ever knew much about children,” grumbled Cumso at 6 o'clock in the morning, as a series of yells burst upon his ears. “Talk about the children’s hour being at twilight!"—Har- per’s Bazar. tee A Precaution. From Harper's Bazar.