Evening Star Newspaper, August 7, 1897, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, AUGUST 7, 1897 “PAGES. STREET GOWN WITH JACKET. LATE FASHION HINTS + --— Timely Suggestions for Gowns From Frankfurt Costumers. NEW IDEAS IN THE USE OF LACE Summer Sleeves Tucked and Shirred to Fit the Arm, A DRESS OF COVERT CLOTH ee ccial Corr spordence of The Evening Star. FRANKFURT, A.M., July 25, 189 The characteristic features of the fash- ionable blouse, jacket or bodice are the small basque, the epaulet and the collar with its bow or rosette trimming of ribbon, gauze or lace. Indeed, the neckwear is a very important attribute to the general appearance of the elegant toilet. The stiff white collar and the soft ruche are equally fashionable, provided they hide the neck completely and reach to the ears and well under the chin. 4 The skirt form has become more compli- cated, and light, clinging materials no longer cover the lining smoothly, but are cut as a full drop skirt over a narrow silken underskirt, winch greatly adds to the delicate appearance of the goods. Batiste and other light wash goods make charming skirts when tucked and shirred over the hips, but women leaning toward embon- point should not be tempted into wearing them, as they enlarge ,the form and are flattering only to very lithe and youthful figures. A dainty gown of this description is worn by a young lady of our clientele. Iz is of white mousseline de laine, with a Uttle blue silk figure. The bodice follows the bolero in form, being composed of wide ks, one above the other, which encircle the bodice, and close on the left side under a full plaiting of white mousseline de Soie edged with narrow Valenciennes lace. A tight high belt or girdle of blue satin con- fines the fullness of the blouse at the waist. The ampl+ sleeve cut in a straight piece is loose at the shoulder, and fastened with small tucks below, to fit the arm closely. The epaulet consists of a ruffle of mousse- line de sole edged w:th lace like the one on the bodice, and another full flounce trims the wa The blue satin ribbon collar is bordered with narrow ruffled lace, and is finisked by a full bow of ribbon at the back. ‘The drop skirt of mousseline de laine is ad- justed over the hips to the smooth white satin underskirt by narrow tucks running lengthwise to twelve inches below the waist ” line. Richly Decorated. Foulard gowns are richly decorated with ruffles or pleatings, and taffeta and poplin show elaborate lace applications of Irish point or guipure, artistically appliqued in large all-over patterns, or as borders in form ef graceful garlands or arabesques. As an illustration of this genre we show in our ateliers a rich gown of linen batiste over an underdress of Nile-green taffeta. The batiste which is stretched across the close-fitting green silk lining is pouched at the waist and gathered into a belt of Nile-green taffeta ribbon, closing at the ; left side under a large bow of ribbon and | lace. The whole front of the batiste blouse is appliqued with arabesques and designs in point lace, the batiste underneath being cut away. The close-fitting skirt has the front gore likewise lace-incrusted and de- fined by a narrow flounce of lace over an- other flounce of Nile-green gauze, thus forming a tablier. The collar of taffeta is edged witr narrow gathered lace and Nile- e@reen gauze, and closes under a full bow of taffeta ribbon and lace. The epaulets are made of three narrow flounces of ba- tiste, each flounce edged with gathered lace and Nile-green gauze shirred into tiny tucks to fit the arm closely, a style very well adapted to slender arms. A cuff of lace finishes this novel sleeve at the wri The olutely smooth skirt is worn only with outing costumes or dresses for very ordinary wear, and even the tailor-made gown has the skirt elaborately trimmed with soutache or braiding to match the decorations on ‘the short jacket or the much-favored bolero. A Street Costume. Our illustration represents a street gown of the most approved style. It is to be made of reddish-brown covert cloth. The skirt is cut in the newest form, having but three gores, and fits closely in front and over the hips, while all fullness is gath- ered in pleats at the back. A very slightly stiffened interlining is placed between the jcloth and the lining of changeable grew and rose taffeta. This interlining, together with a very pliable fine steel band inserted in the hem of the skirt, gives a,body to the cloth and greatly improves the hang of the garment. The seams of the front gore are machine stitched in tailor-made style, and a rich braiding of narrow Ilack moire ribbon and black silk soutach2 extends alorig the front seams and around the skirt, simulating a tunic. The natty jacket of covert cloth has rounded corners and is cut to have the front darts and back seams meet at the shoulders. It is lined like the skirt, with taffeta. The deep V-shaped trimmings at the back meet at the points and consist of narrow black moire ribbon sewn on vertically and an edging of silk soutache. The tailor collar is of black moire francaise and the reveres, braided to match the skirt and back of jacket, open wide over a vest of white moirs, trimmed with a full jabot of creamy real lace and belt of black moire. The jAigh collar of white ‘moire is veiled with lace and $s fin- ished at the back by a bow of the same lace. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves show the soutache and ribbon garniture at the shoul- ders and wrists. The latge hat of black straw “paille satin’ accompanying this costume has the wide brim covered with a full flounce of the same lace trims the front of the vest. At the back a tuft of black ostrich tips and black aigrette rises high above the proad crown. eee (ULLMANN & STRAUSS, Frankfurt A. M.) Spared for a Worse Fate. From the Detroit Free Press. “There's a poor devil I sympathize with.” The head of the firm laid aside his paper and turned to his partner. “He was en- gaged to a young society woman, intro- duced her to his most intimate male friend, and threw them together a good deal, because so fond of both. They eloped and were married. He followed them up and shot his false friend.” ‘You don’t claim that he did right?" “I do claim that he’s better than the ran he shot, and if he needs money to make a defense, he can have it. I don’t know him, but i know just what he went through. When I was twenty-three my fiancee and I were hin two months of our wedding day. The man I had roomed with for four years in college, and whom I loved as David did Saul, came to visit me. I would kave trusted him with my life, fortune and reputation. He was handsome and fascinating, she was brilliant, beautiful and had ali the arts of coquetry. Two weeks before the day fixed for our marriage they disappeared together | ana were made man and wife by a country justice. Do you think it was possible for me to sit calmly down and figure on what duty demanded? Do you think that the promptings of outraged love and pride eculd be silenced by the still, small voice of censcience? I armed myself, followed them like a Nemesis, came up with them in Venice, rushed upon him without a word, jammed my revolver against his temple and pulled the trigger.” “Horrible! And all these years I have never known you were a murderer.” “I'm not. The cartridge didn’t explode and they dragged me away.’ “Are you sorry you failed? “No. But he is. She has led him a life to make any man wish he had died young.” ees inequality. From the Cincinnat! Enquirer. “Woman,” shrieked the oratress, “de- mands only equality before the law.” “It can never be,” said the wise one. “She who can weep effectively will always have the best of it with the jury.” —__—_<eo. “Want” ads. in The Star pay because they bring answers. THE BLA From the Flicgende Blatter. SE BARON. Baron—“Really, my dear, two young women have already become crazy from ‘ove of me, and yor should try not to catch the same Young Womarn—“Oh, baron, allow me to make the third.” FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Pretty Little Trifles That Give Such a Dainty ‘Effect. =~ Useful When It Comes to Remodeling Gowns of a Season or Two Ago —Fronts and Collars. Written Exclusively for The Evening Star: She that hes clever fingers and a small purse, prepare now to bring the former into play; she that has idéas and a long purse, can use both, while she that has a longer purse and no ideas may still compete with the two former classes of women if she kas the good sense to allow gome one to direct her wardrobe. The last official month of summer has brought to the fore a bewlidering array of fichus, gabrielles, bretelles, and a’ host more of pretty things which give an air of daintiness to the gowns they are com- bined with, and most effectually conceal wear and tear. Let us first speak of the fichus—most be- ceming settings for all faces, young or old, They are especially adapted for summer wear, though they need by no means be discarded in winter. They are much more yoluminous than the fichu of the past, and consequently conceal, relieve and adorn at the same time. Point d’esprit is a favorite material for the fichu itself,or the center to speak more correctly, for it is the wide, soft ruffe which gives the whoie char- acter. Summer gowns of a season or so back, which have lost their smart appear- ance through a difference in the neck and sleeves of the present models, look es- pecially well with fichus, as the neck of the gown is turned in and thus quite hid- den, and the sleeves if too small can be quite concealed by the soft mass over the shoulders, while if too large at the top alcne they need only be tucked up into a small compass. With an old-fashioned square-necked gown, alsb, the fichu is invaluable. Take ali the old trimming off the neck of such a gown, and put across the front a strip of embroidery or lace, laid smoothly over the goods. Then drape the fichu over it, leaving only a Hittle ofthe gown uncov- ered in front, where the new trimming hus been put'on. This effect is especially becoming, and {t has the merit of making a dinner gown or gown for evening wear which will conceal thinness or tan, and yet be dressy. As the summer wanes even the shirt waists seem to have grown Ured of their fermer prim starchiness, and little at- temps at dressy stock and ties are seen on every hand. Long mull ties, with lace ends are seen loosely knotted about the shirt waist instead of the inevitable linen col- lar. It is better taste, however, to con- fine these embellishments to silk waists cr to soft white waists. Suitable for wear with afternoon gowns are collars of silk with Vandyke points back and front, edged with narrow black velvet, finished with a four-in-hand of muil vith lace ends and a knot of the silk edged with black to complete the tie. An edge of narrow black velv way, is much used just at pres of the prettiest collars or front It brings out the soft colors and shades s much in vogue at present as nothing else does. The zouave jacket effects are legion, and very becoming to slender women or women with long waists. In material they vary from lace of cobwebby fineness for light gowns to ruffies of the same material as the own, efged with ndrrow lace to accentu ate the jacket. as The very smartest gawng last spring were made* with a jacket which made no_at- tempt to pretend that it was intended to fasten. For these gowns the number of fronts needed was legion. The most popu- lar was a waistcdat of white duck, molded to fit the figure perfectly, and a white mull collar, with a turned-over knife pleating at the top, and a huge bow of white mull with knife-pleated ends. Fronts and Collars, There is not one ‘of these fronts which could not be made at home without a pat- tern by any woman with skillful finger: as she who has gauged the trimming know: Nor is there one collar of silk, satin or mull now popular which cannot be manufac- tured at home, given a good fitting founda- tion and a discriminating eye. Fronts of checked taffeta silk with high pleated collars and four-in-hand ends of the same silk are suitable for a traveling gown. Ready-made corset covers have been used for years by women who needed many evening gowns and were obliged to make them at home. All that is necessary is to cut out the neck the required shape and drape the silk or whatever material is to make the evening waist over the underbody. Most evening waists are of pretty, soft m terials and depend a great deal upon belt and neck trimming for their effective: s0 this is a speedy as well as an economical way of obtaining the desired result, For the many summer gowns of canvas or other material, made with jacket effects, mull fronts trimmed with narrow Valen- ciennes in various ways are bewitching. Nothing could be softer or more becoming, although of course, it is not very new. One very dainty front had a bias effect, made by putting the lace on from the shoulders and crossing it at the line of the bust, and again at fhe waist line. ' Somewhat new at the present moment are square collars of embroidery, which are merely sailor collars alike back and front and hooked on the shoulder. Old black gowns are always a hopeful subject and with fichus, collars, ete., and the elbow sleeve so much worn still they have a gicrious future before them. A most beautiful garniture for such a gown was seen this week. It was of black mus- Iin de sole, with honiton lace appliqued upon the shoulders. Almost every woman has “some beautiful old lace, which she can us@ in this way without injuring the lace at all. Bodices for dinners, recepticns, dances and evening wear at home can be made with very little trouble and with most gratifying results by those who have saved old finery of the past in the way of lace and silk. MABEL BOYD. ne An Appropriate Casket. From the Chicago Record. Admiral Lord Charles Beresford ts noth- ing if not original, and is determined to be so, even in death. He has resolved to be buried, not in an ordinary coffin, but in a casket fashioned in the form of a boat, which has just been constructed for him by a Liverpool firm. The build of the boat is of the style known as “carayel,” the ma- terial being of pine, West African mahog- any, oak and elm. It is seven feet. long; and looks like a double-ended lifeboat, without, perhaps, quite as much shear as usually is found in such craft. She is pro- vided with a wooden deck or cover, extend- ing fore and aft, and fitted lid fashion to go over the gunwale. Life lines are fixed around her, and she is supplied with a couple of oars, a rudder and a tiller. The inside, upholstered by a leading London un- dertaker, is very inviting, and altogether the beat is one of the most attractive coffins that it is possible to conceive. Lord Charles does not propose to follow: the example of Sarah Bernhardt, and of other notoriety-crazed actors and actresses who carry their coffins about with them; but has resolved to leave it in the care of his undertaker, with whom it is to remain until the time comes for the gallant and’ ‘pepuiar sailor to “‘slip his cables.” Then his queer lifeboat will be placed in the family vault of the noble house of Beres- fcrd at Curraghmore, in County Water- ford, Ireland. or so from the rectory, taking with her our little brown coeker spaniel. When she left she quite forget the dog, and as as our friends discovered him they did they could to maké him leave, 28 the j 3 R WH EN SU MMERWAN FS | sterae has the instinct of the fittest to The Brightest Colors Are Seen at Newport and Narragansett. RIBBONS ARE ALSO IN HIGH FAVCR Hats That Have Yielded to a Grace- ful Démoralization. eae gee SOME VERY SMART GOWN h Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEWPOR R. F 1, August 5, 1897. ROM A COMFOR- table sand burrow at Narragansett yester- day it was possible to observe that the beach was alive with yellowish — muglins tied with sashes of rainbew-hued rib - bons. Now yellowish muslins come in with the goldenrod, which fact. iempts to mor- alizing. Summer is the locust’s drone, the hot, sweet earth breath and the brood- ing of he sky. But these things never meet till summer is touched with instinct of its end. Summer is yellowish muslins, but yellowish muslins wait for bathing dresses, ind“whe a girl is able to spend half the day in the surf and the rest in muslin:foam then the days are growing shorter with warning of future chill. Tais fable teaches that to get a thing especially yellowish gnuslin or a bathing dress, is warning to make ready to let it go. Too bad it isn’t a fable. Choky_ linen collars and stiff shirt fronts n@# subject to this rule. Its ap- plicaticnlis t6 things desirable. Sailor hats seem to escape also. On what ground, there may be argument. But carpe diem, Enjoy the white silk while itis Worn ont of doors. It took up a good, part of the beach room yesterday not given ever ‘to yellowish muslin. It was sasheq sith green by preference and cas- caded with lace in compiex ways. Spotted Muslin spotted the sands, made up over white and frilled till the turning up of the ruffles was like the blowing of the leaves of a tree in the wind. Tambour muslins and organdies were in the running with much draped fichus of chiffon or lace or mousseline re soie. The English expres- sion of gayety is to hang ribbon bunting | from *Venethn masts;” i. e., flag staffs. From the depths of that burrow yesterday the quantities of ribbon a flutcer from pique, not poles made Narragansett tumul- tuously gay. Rose pink and pale green ribbons were first favorites, but every sort of dress stre:med with any sort of ribbon. Follow Your Leader. Hats were in tie streaming bustness, too, for with the docility of sheep over a wall every beach girl in the east has joince the follow your leader game started by the first beach girl who tied her veil about the crown ef her sailor kat, instead of over her face, and let the ends wave behind. ‘There are long ends and short ends, tulle ends, Brussels and Russian mesh ends, wide ends and narrow ends, spotted ends and plain white, but always waving veils. In wHich fact is warrant for more moral- izing. The trimmed skirt conditions the flowing veil. I do not suppose that the beach girl has reasoned with herself say- ing, “Because my dress 1s all dancing ruf- fles, therefore my hat must compromise with its too demure ways; but without any whereas or therefore straight brim and hard crown hate yielded to graceful Gemoralization. Fashions that last always harmonize with their environments. Tne It is a notion of mine that the brightest butterflies are shortest lived, and on the same principle casino dress, which has a rather longer season than beach dress, 1s often daintier and more artistic, but never so boldly an frankly gay. The casino gown at Newport just now or the gown tor Bellevue avenue is a very soft gray muslin over pale pink or a silky grass jawn in fawn color or delicate green, em- broidered in ecru or cream color and with open applique designs in Renaissance lace or in black lace touched with gold tinsel. There is nothing radically new about any of these dresses. Fashion is enjoying its midsummer slumber. But there are touch- es of individuality, even of originality, to distinguish good dresses from commonplace ones. Sketched at Newport. Here are the best sketches of the last three or four days. A slight girl of for- eign look, with dark blue, almost violet eyes, wore at the casino a pale pink fou- lard, the one material favored abroad, though not so exclusively dominant here. The skirt, which was figured with a vague, cobwebby design in white, was trimmed with three ruches of silver gray chiffon, set on after the popular model of a tilted hoopskirt, lew in front and high behind. ‘These ruches were round and full like a boa, instead of patterning after ruftie or frill, and they divided the skirt into four parts approximately square. On the left side a fan panel of pleated chiffon had the effect of being laid over the ruches. The bodice was close-fitting and decorated with a plastron of cream lace edged with a gray chiffon ruche and cut like a broad collar and vest combined. On the shoulders it lay over small, ruche-bordered epaulettes, as if to double them. The sleeves were a very close fit and the belt a swathing of brilliant red A red turban-shaped hat was worn, wound with white chiffon and trim- med with pink roses, At a lawn fete given a day or two ago in behalf of a Newport charity the most striking dress exhibit was a pale rose- tinted taffeta skirt trimmed with lace in the new grass lawn tint; said lace being looped across the front in three festoons, sh upon the sides and falling straight thence to the ground. The bodice of this costume was a slightly pouched front of lace belted with pink silk and worn under a very novel jacket of deep dahlia-colored silk covered with ‘Turkish embroidery in gold. This jacket was a cross petween a zouave and a tailed coat, with pointed fronts cut away in deep curves under the arms to the long basques behind. There was a large white hat trim- med with pink and yellow roses and turned up on the left side with roses under the brim. Cream-Colored Foulard. A second foulard dress was in the car- riage procession this afternoon. 1t was cream-colored, with designs in green and pale blue, and it had side panels of ecru lawn, hanging a little full and embroidered with green and cream. The bodice was almost c.vered with a fichu of mousseline de soie, a dainty thing of many scalloped frills, knotted on the breast with a bunch of roses and falling below the waist line. The gathered yoke and the close, ruffling sleeves were of lawn, as was the big, frilled and cnibroidered parasol. Looking cn at golf but far from being of it was a summery dress of grass lawn of a pretty, peachy shade. Its skirt was nearly cov-red with three deep fiounces edged with tiny lawn frills, these again be- ing edged with lace of the same shade. Down the micdle of the front came a panel of silk lawn, bordered with wider lace and stiffened a little by half a dozen lace points set across it at intervals from the waist down. The blouse bodice of lawn lace, in- sertion and tucks was a wonder of work. It was very pretty. The sleeves, barred with lace, had not even epaulettes to widen them at the shoulders. Everything looks now as if autumn. would bring us back to the perfectly plain close sleeve. A pale yellow taffeta was the most in- teresting dress item at a morning concert, with its skirt trimming of bands of lace strapped across with narrow, pale blue ribbons. The bodice had a lace vest with Jacket fronts of the taffeta, lace edgea and drawn under the belt of blue satin. A lace ruffle let out a>out the hips and simu- lated jacket basques. It, like the fronts andthe long lace cuffs to the elbow sleeves, was strapped with ribbon. White gloves for out of door wear have seen thelr best days. Ecru shades and bamboo tints are correct now. Very light, all of these, but not staring. ELLEN OSBORN. HOUSEHOLD HINTS That old-fashioned edible, “‘salt-rising” bread, is seldom seen on a dinner table any more, and yet it was once the bread of the world, the civilized portion of it, anyhow. The recipe that follows is one that Mrs. T. R. Stockdale, wife of the former repre- sentative from Mississippi, always used, be- fore yeast bread got to be the fashionable diet. Fill a quart cup with equal parts of milk and water. Poyr into a large pitcher and stir in flour enough to make a good batter, that will drop from a spoon in “chunks.” Into this stir one heaping tea- spoonful of salt and set in a warm place. If at the énd of four hours the water rises to the top stir in more flour. After the mass riges. make into dough, as for yeast bread, adding about a gill of warm milk or water and a little more salt; also a piece of lard fhe size of an egg. Knead it ten minutes; then make into loaves and put to rise in Drea@pans. Do not jar while it is rising, For that will make it heavy. It may be sal@' right here that salt-rising bread is’the crankiest stuff to do anything with yot' eve? saw. If it gets too hot or too cold, if ‘ther@‘is too much salt or not quite enough, “it rises like the ebb tide, by sink- ing’ bac, and ‘the odor~of it is something awful. % {sa toothsome dainty when it comes té the table, however. ‘This ig the time of year that ruins table linen and’ its;owner’s temper. Fruit stains! How they de:torment the careful house- i to stand well. Head up, shoulders straight, abdomen in, feet firmly planted. that wil tiake any woman presentable. I? you don’t believe it, you doubting sister with the shirt waist that never 1s on good terms with your dress skirt, and whose collar insists cn creeping up about your ears, just practice getting into those postures for one straight week, and then report. Fifleen minutes a day for three months will make over any woman who is not afraid of getting tired. Servants were cervants away back in 1566, just as varied, in fact, as the woman who bossed them, and both were much as they are in this end of the century year. Servants were fined in these days for each trivial offense. A penay was thought enough to fine a servant who left open a ccor that should have be2n closed, and the same fine did service for missing fam- ily prayers, or leaving the beds of the house unmade later tian $ o'clock in the morning! The cock might hare a beau, Lut she had to pay a fine every time he camc of 1 penry. If such rules were en- forced now, madim would find herself without “aly help” in short order. A nice way to cook an egg for a deli- ‘cate stomach Is as follows: Heat a cup of milk to the boilin: roint in a perfectly new tin cup. While at the boiling point, break and drop into it a perfectly fr=sn egg, then set the tin back where I: will not let the milk boil, and let the whit2 “set” for four minutes, ‘then lift cut and serve with a bit of sweet Lutter and a litte salt. have a clean, ary one to follow it or you will leave streaks on your shiny furniture. A silk handkerchief is the nicest thing fine ieee A stiff bristle a. a small wi room are necessary for up- bolstered furniture. All of these should be sl-aken and beaten or washed free of dust and grit as soon as used and before being put away. = i § : ij ty 285 Ht a3 Ef ‘one sunny temper and a soul full of ambi- tion can conquer worlds. The title of “gen- tleman” belongs of right only to him who earns it, the title of “lady” to her who has made herself fit for it. All honest work is honorable, though it may not all be alike pleasing to perform, and those who.win laurels from barren fields are the ores who retain them longest. When plants, roses and other pets suffer from insect life, sprinkle the leaves with a dusting of flour of sulphur, and then let it remain on for a few days. It can be rinsed off with cold water. It is almost sure death to the bugs, but does not harm the plants. Powdered soapstone and salt make an everlasting lining for worn-out stove fire- boxes. Take equal parts of the seit and scapstone and wet to a thick paste with Water, and spread on, then let it dry. Sick headache will sometimes yield to a cup of strong, clear coffee that has the Juice of half a lemon in it. if the crackers have got stale, put them in & baking tin and stand in the oven til they brown slightly, and they will be fresh as ever. It takes housekeepers a long time to learn that asbestos plates such as you can get for five cents each are the nicest thing in the world to put under the tin in which you are cooking oatmeal, rice, milk, or any of those other things that burn so easily. They cannot burn, unless they boil dry, if you use the plate under them. Never use the cores of quinces in making Jelly. Parings may be used, but the quinces should be treated to a good wash- ing before peeling. Before repainting, always wash the oid paint to free it from finger marks and grease. Soda and hot water and a flancel cloth will do the business. Put a teaspoonful of sugar to a mess of turnips and you will miss the peculiar bit- ter taste that they so often have. It is best to run turnips through a colander, if you want them mashed, because they have hard little lumps that a beater cannot get cut. It is said that molasses rubbed on grass- stained clothing will remove the marks of too energetic acquaintance with the green sward. 1t will hurt nothing to try it. Rub the molasses in and let stand in the sun for a few hours. The juice of a lemon added to the cooking rice will whiten it wonderfully and noc in- jure the flavor. ————— PARASOLS FOR SUMMER GOWNS. Airylike Confections Chiffon. From Harper's Bazar. The parasols carried with gowns worn in midsummer are quite different from those which first make their appearance early in the summer to use with the spring costumes. Smart little sun-umbreilas are always used for general service, but to accompany thin gowns come most airylike confections of lace and chiffon of ex- quisitely dainty coloring and design, while the handles are in many instances verita- ble works of art—indeed, the handles are often more valuable than the cover. To go with a black and white lace cos- tume a parasol is covered first with white chiffon put on very full; over the chiffon is a cover of black lace, and around the edge are ruffles of black lace over white. This parasol is of medium size frame, but of Lace and the chiffon and lace make it seem quite large. Tae stick is of white-wood, with a handle of enamel in blue corn-flowers and green leaves, which relieves the too som- ber effect of black and white. All-white parasols are always fashionable, and this searcn as much so as ever; but the laiest fanc@of a full inner lining of some color is a great improvement when the parasol is opered, as not only is the thin material too sheer to be comfortable to the eyes, but the effect of the dead white is not be- coming. This inside lining is sometimes of thin silk put on quite plain—pale green, yeliow or pink—or else is of accordion-pleated chiffon so arranged as to be very full, and consequently more opaque. A pale pink chiffon lining is trimmed with row after row of white lace, each ruffle overlapving the other, and under the last one a full rufle of pleated chiffon—white, not pink. Lace parasols are sometimes made with alternate ruffles of black and white lace, and these are very smart. One exceedingly effective style has first pleatings of white chiffon, then a covering of white mousse- line de soie with entre-deux of Vaien- ciennes. Over this, again, is a covering of black with bands of black lace. The han- dle of this parasol is a work of art—of black enamel studded with tiny diamonds. To accompany a dainty gown of pale yellow muslin an exquisite parasol is made of yellow mousseline de soie, with bands of Valenciennes insertion and a double ruffle of Valenciennes lace. There is an in- ner Jining fitted tight over the frame, cf le yellow silk, and the outside covering ca We ike elatiouty atthe tees bottom, and droops gracefully over the lining. The handle is of carved ivory, such as was in fashion some years ago. Ivory handles, by one way, have come in again, and there are some beautiful pieccs of carving to be seen among them. The plain ivory also is in favor, and comes in odd shapes. Black chiffon and mousseline de sole parasols are used with light gowns when black hats are worn. They are not so ef- fective as the light ones, but are excecd- ingly smart. Those with the ma- terial put on vory tull/and finished around the edge with two cr{ three ruffles, are the smartest. There are some that are attract- 1ve which are trimmed with rows of nar- row black ribbon fastened only at one edge. These are more suitable to carry with silk gowns than with musiin ones. Bright red chiffon and mousseline de soie are carried with red gowns, and when lined with white are not at all too vivid. Some of the red ones are also striped with black ribbon, but as a rule the entire col- oring is red—not a scarlet, but the cerise which is still so fashionable. Parasols of purple chiffon are only to be used with purple gowns. They are ex- ceedingly asols, which were firet copied in silk this spring. These are carried with di colcred gowns, and look well with all, especially so with white A small white wood stick with an emerald (ifhitation) for & top makes the prettiest finish. All t Parasols have a bow of ribo" on top ard another half-way up the stick. The bons can be of the same shade of th asol or of some contrasting color. When economy has to be consulted, tt is & good plan to buy a white parasol at some of the numerous sales. A chcap white parasol is generally made of soni thin silk, which is capital for @ liming, a¢ it is no difficult task to cover it With accordion-pleated chiffon or ‘ with rvfles. Cleverness at sewing will on able one to turn out one that will cooly pass muster with an expensive shop-in vie article, and for a third the money Net is now greatly in favor to cover par- asols, and gooi effects can be gained lace appliqued on the net. A lece flov that is too much worn to be used for | ming will afford plenty of pieces that be applied on net to great advantage is more durable than chiffon or mows line de sole, and is, consequenily, t for the sea shore. perceiad ee A GIRL’S ALLOWANCE. © Daughter Amount of Spendi From Harper's Bazar, Nothing is farther from the thoughts of porents than to make grown-up daughters who are living at home practical mend cants, with the feeling of beggars in th: father’s house. Yet this is not infrequentiy the result when the daughter has no ccme of her own, earns no money—by parents’ own wish—and simply has to ask for what she wants. Only women who have had it to do have the faintest conve; tion of the misery there is in asking every penny, even when pence are srudgingly given in return for the asxing Wives dislike it when they are deali with exceilent husbands, and when they have but to show an empty purse to hay {ts yawning compartments promptly r nished. And daughters, more thar %, recoil from going to papa eve time they require a ribbon or a pair shoes, every time a new gown is wants every time they wish to bestow someth in charity. The having to render count is humiliating, and the girl « the superior independence of her bro's who is in business or in a profession, «nd is master of his own finances. Girls in well-to-do households where there. is Visible stratiness of means are often m happier when working for their own = port than when receiving what cheir ents give them. A good preparation for a girl's allowan: is made by judicious parents, who besin when their daughters are children, an from an early age accustom them to th management first of a small, then of stadually increased, allowance. In the b ginning, the girl knows nothing of the value of money, she does not know wha we may style the thrift of i spending, she cannot buy her clothing without wast= But if intrusted with funds and guided in their use, she learns by de s how to exercise a stewardship over money, and she will better control her financ whether large or small, her life long, for the ap- prenticeship she serves in the days whe first she has som thing of her own to care for. The wise parent will not hesitate to let the little girl know the inconvenience of poverty :f in those early days she <ponds the whole of her allowance in the first few hours of its possession. Only by the actual management of money does a person arrive at the stage when it is regarded with the — measure of respect and apprecia- tion. Defeats a Swordfish and Two “Ki Jers” in ir Fight. From the Cornhill Magazine. Two “killer and a huge swordfish (xiphias), desperate with hunger, had com- bined their forces and ventured to attack @ half-grown bull cachalot Nothing, 1 am persuaded, but the direct necessity and pressure of want could have prompted them to undertake so grave a conflict, al- though it must reeds be confess 1 that their combinatior. was a powerful one. It feM to the swordfish to lead off, and he launched himself at the whale like a Whitehead torpedo, pointed direct for tie mest vital part. But a gentle swerve of the wary cachalot presented to the attack, instead of the vulnerable broadside, the oblique impenctrable mass of his head. The awful blow of the sword impelled by the furious speed of the mass behind it struck just above the whale’s eyes, ripping a white streak diagonally upward thr: tHe gristly substance covering the sku but spending its force in the air aby while the great body following glided s-r pentlike right over the while’s head and fell heiplessly upon the other sid. With incredible agility for so vast a bulk the cachalot turned, octtling slightly with- al, then rising, lower jaw uppermo: caught the xiphias in the c those mighty shears and cleft him in halves. A sideway shake of the great hes a scarce perceptible gulp, and the tail the swordfich slid down the whal ernous throat with as much ease a pidity as if it had been an oyster. while the orcas had not bee. supporting the spirited attack of their {ll- fated coadjutator. One hung upon each flank of their giant foe and worried him as dogs a boar. But their time had come. After vainly endeavoring by rolling and writhing to fee himself from them suddenly chenged his tactics. Rearing himself majestically out of the eddies like 2 mighty column of black rock, he fell backward, tearing himself away from the clinging monsters. Up rose his enormous tail from the boiling vortex, and descending like a giant scythe literally crushed one of his aggressers beneath it, the sound of the blow reverberating Mke thunder. The survivor fied, but the in- furiated Titan pursued, leaping like a dol- phin half out of the sea at every bound, and although we could not see the end © the chase we had little doubt that th gladiator paid the full penalty of his rasi- ress under the lethal sweep of those terri- ble jaws. ——___-+e-+ Spectacular Fireworks. From the Atlanta Constitution. When, a few years ago, some of the Rus- sian grand dukes honored Baker, a town on the Caspian, with their presence, the governor had navhtha thinly poured over the surface of the sea for a very consider- able distance. About 9% o'clock in the evening the flammatory substance was ignited and a bluish conflagration spread itself over the waves of the mighty deep. To increase the oplendor of the scene a slight breeze crose, the sea became agi- tated and the billows majestically heaved without any too violent commotion. Such a matrimonial alliance, if I may use the term, of fire and waver, was perhaps never before witnessed. The flames literally danced on the waves, blending all their magic beauty with the splashing restlessness of their limpid an- tagonist. The dark green color of the Caspian shone by the reflection of the subdued light riding bodily on the very foam of the surface. At length the gale increased, the the covering became more and more broken and the glowing carpet extended over a great distance of the sea, gradually assuming the aspect of so many jack-o'- lanterns.