Evening Star Newspaper, July 10, 1897, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 10, 1897-24 PAGES. Holland’s Great Costumer Writes on This Timely Subject. + A COSTUME OF CACHEMERE VELOUTE Some Novelties in Wraps and Color Combinations. THE RAGE FOR FLOUNCES ——— (Copyright, 1897, by Wm. Du Bots. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. THE HAGUE, June 27, 1897. ‘The “Grand Prix” races of Paris have set the standard for fashions all over the Europ2an continent, and our model today, which we call “Toilette de Courses,” but which is equally suitable for promenade or traveling wear, is naturally influenced by these recent Paris events. Our model is made of “cachemere ve- loute,” a textile resembling henrietta cloth, but having a velvety finish. The color is “bleu-lavende,” a new blue lavender, which looks particularly well in soft materials like cachemere. The only decoration on the plain narrow skirt consists of many rows of machine stitching. The loose, graceful blouse jacket with serpentine basque is also of blue lavender cachemere and is trimmed with machine stitching like the skirt. The narrow reveres expose the blouse of lavender blue crepe de chine with ‘oidered polka dots. The jacket but only a narrow machine which covers the shoulders cap, of the full blouse sleeve of crepe de chine. AVY ylish effect and color combination is ved by the large cravat and folded belt cerise velvet. The parasol is of white and black striped silk and the hat trice Eugenie” shape of trimmed with a wreath varicolored roses and foliage. For traveling purposes a handsome shirt waist and toque could be substituted for the deli- and er handsom me useful for ason of ari ng and trav f tan-colore te atin, and ws t lain ski with ro of machine stitching. use jacket is in taflor-mad i a full basque, the f of wh rise satin belt. incloses at the er a large double ing a mil style, and decorated with ten large cloth buttons. The sleeve is a leg o° mutton, with cuff lined with cerise ning. A wide white the fullness of the 1 passes in front plastron, Satin, and the high, flaring collar also shows the bright lining. The small toque accompanying this gown is trimmed with cherries and cerise satin ribbon. Jacket Bodices, These jacket bodices are now shown on almost all new outdoor costumes and their construction and fit is now the study of every fashionable dressmaker. They are all made to pouch over the waistband or gir- dle, whether this girdle be carried almost to the armpits or be merely the narrowest of belts. It is a style almost universally becoming, as it gives width to the too slender figure, while the droop of the ma- terial in front gives the effect of a point and adds length to a short waist. To nar- row figures the full double frill carried down the front, narrowing as it nears the or, as some frills do, terminating iway, is exceedingly becoming. White mousseline sprigged or dotted is extensive- ly made up over white or colored silk, and the fashion of fastening the bodice Giagonaliy from the left shoulder to the right side of the waist is universally ad- mired and followed this season. Never was the arm more becomingly and comfortably dressed than now, and never was fashion more moderate in h dictations. No more baggy sleeves whic hang, in spite of the wearer, into butter plate and soup tureen, and flop in a breeze lik a sail around the wearer's arm. The full arm is now attired as smoothly as comfort will permit, and where nature has not been lavish in distributing fleshy tis- sue, the defects are covered by crinkled and slightly fulled geods. The decorations at the top vary constantly with the fancy of the dressmakers, who endeavors ever to excel herself in inventing becoming deco- rations for the shoulder and upper arm. There are sleeves for every sort of fabric, for every age and size, and for day and evening wear. A Novel Creation. The spring has been so cool that wraps are still in demand with toilets which do not affect the jacket bodice. The cape is fast sinking into oblivion, having the fash- ionable collet as a substitute. One very novel creation is composed of putty colored cloth and black and silk gauze. The cloth is uset for the large round fichu collar, which in front falls in draped ends and has at the back a point which extends to the waist line. From under this collar, adorned vitn strips of black passementerie running diagonally acrcss, comes pleated black silk gauze falling in shawl shape in the back and continuing in front to the extremity of the cloth puints, so that the gauze reach- €s nearly to the Knees. A full vest of cream colored gauze over satin of the same shade fils out the openirg between the points in front and a full ruche of the same cream colored gauze encircles the neck. This model tnakes up equally well in other materials, as black silk, for older matrons, or white ilk covered with black passementerie and black gauze flources or red silk equally combined. Fleunces are very fashionable. A favor- ite design for the washable summer dress shows the skirt as consisting of three full flounces to simulate three skirts one above the other, each flounce edged with lace or broidery or insertion or hemstitching. Even woolen goods is made into flounces. Barege is a material which looks particu ly well flounced. A figured green barege has nine gathered flounces edged with a narrow frill of silk to match. They are sewed on in a slight curve in front and cover the skirt within a few inches of the top. Fiounces may be wide or narrow, set closely together or with a division between, and they may cover the whole of the skirt or merely a portion of it. For the border- ing, ribbon, lace, and narrow fringe are all equally favored. QL A. VocELs, The Hague.) =. Hard Luck. From Life. When Tom Plaster got out of his chair there was a rustle and crackle, as of mussing stiffly starched linen. I looked at him in surprise, for I was under the im- pression that he had a neglige shirt on, and I found that I was right; it was a soft shirt. “Hella, old man,” I asked, as I noted the lcok of patient pain on his face, “what's the matter?” he explained, gently straight- up, 2ccomp d by the same mys- rustle ard crackle, “I came home tedly the other day while my wife unexpe Was out, and I put in the time taking a bath, and she had had the bath tub re- painted while I was out of town.’ “Dear me,” I said, sympathetically, “how very unfortunate.” “Yes,” he assented, mournfully. “And be- sides, she’s done nothing but blow me up for spoiling the tub every time she’s seen me since.” ———_—_—_~ee.. A Believer in Progress. From Puck. First Tramp—“T’ink dey’ll make a suc- cess of dem airships?” Second Tramp—‘Sure! we'll be stealin’ rides on de freight trains.” —<seo—_ “Want” ads. in The Star pay because they bring answers. An’ when dey do dem same es on From Lite. AWAKENED HIS AFFECTIO) “It looks like a case of love at urst stght.” ‘No. He was dead in love with her before he saw her.” ; “How could that be?” . $500,000 in her own right.” HOUSEHOLD HINTS|| OVE ‘OUTDOOR LIFE Pocket handkerchiefs some times get un- accountably yellow, and the laundry wo- men never seems able to improve them. Put a teaspoonful of borax in a quart of warm water, and dip the clean handker- chiefs in that and rinse with the hands. Lift them dripping from that onto a clean towel and lay on the sill of a sunny win- dow. Wet as often as they dry, and in two or three hours you will find them as white as snow. Then rinse in clear water and iron. The sensible woman will wash her handkerchiefs and hose at home. Neither will wear out so fast. “How shall I make a starch for my black lawns that will not shine white asks many a despairing woman. Well, it is difti- cult to do, and more is in the ironing than in the starchiag. Strained coffee is some- times used instead of water to mix the starch, but one does not like to smell like a coffee factory all the time. Une woman who wears black all the time, uses a little Mquefied gum arabic in the starch water. She doesn’t know how mtch, but says, “well, eno.gh, I always guess at the quan- tity.” She makes a starch using the clear starch, and mixes it with the best Prussian biue, till the starch is almost black with it. She washes the dress and waist in the starch water, never in soap water, and in the last rinse water, which is clear, she puts a little powered berax, say a tea- spoonful to a gallon of clear water. For cuffs and collars, she cold starches with unbolled, blued starch. She has a black ironing sheet and a thin piece of new black lawn, which she places over the right side, when she finds it necessary to touch that side of the goods. She irons the waist on the wrong side, always, and never touches the iron to the right side, except she in- ‘terposes the bit of lawn. In that way she always has excellent results. If a bit of starch seems inclined to blotch the out- side of the waist, she takes a piece of black calico and some warm water and rubs it off. Black calicos and lawns should never be washed in water in which anything else has been washed. The baby that is broken out with heat can't be happy, and it will be cross urtless you can do something to ease the intolera- ble burning sensation. As long as the child perspires, no kind of ointment will heal its tender flesh. The very best thing that can be applied is talcum powder. Put it on with the pepper box, and cover the broken- out spots quite thickly. Smooth it over the red places, and as fast as it rubs off apply more. Some of the worst cases of heat are cured in «n hour in this manner. Put the child into cool, clean clothes that have not a suspicion of starch to scratch and tease the iender flesh, and don’t let a scrap of flannel touch the heat spots, as it acts like fire on them. Iced coffee for the morning meal is great- ly relished by some, and it has the merit of tasting rich, though much weaker, cold, than if it were hot, so it takes less of the berry to answer for a meal. It should be made in tke usual manner, be perfectly clear, and no milk used. at salads in the summer. They are more cooling and more healthful than the heavier dishes. Vegetable salads are best. Beets and potatoes make a pretty salad, and are very appetizing. Egg salad is nice, tomato is delicious, and most any of the will make a gocd cooked salad. It is always best to eat salads and fruits in the naturel state if possible, with the addition of sugar or other seasoning. It is not best to use soap on glass. Not that It clouds the glass in time as some foolishly believe, but because it is unneces- sary, and only makes mere work. Wash glassware in not water, as hot as the hand can bear. A little ammonia, which is hard on the hands, remember, will soften the water. Ground glass should be washed with soap, and a small brush will be neces- sary to get it clean. Never vse anything but the cleanest towels to polish the glass- ware, and if you would not have them covered with lint, use only the firm fine linen. Remember that impure drinking waiter is a menace to household happiness. All the water that is used in drinking or cook- ing should be boiled or distilled. For drink- irg, you can boil in the tea kettle, then drop the tiniest speck of alum in it and let it stand for a moment to clear, the set- tlings ail dropping to the bottom. Then pour in the bottles and put in the ice box. Cork them tightly. One or two bottles at a time may be put in the ice box, and the others wait their chance, but the cork must not be removed. It is said that neither files or mosquitoes will come into a room where there is an oder of pennyroyal. There is no pleasanter way of amusing children these hot days than by letting them play in the bath tub. Let them strip off to one garment, or naked, and turn on the water. The dabbling will not hurt them in the least, and will keep them cocler and quieter than if they were chas- ing cats on the street or racing like mad through the house. Have a care that they do not fill the bath tub so full that there is danger of drowning. A very nice way to serve eggs ts to boil them quite hard, remove the shell and halve crosswise. Make a ‘nice cream gravy with butter, milk and flour, with salt and pepper seasoning. Have both very hot and pour the gravy over the eggs as they stand on a deep platter, with the yellows up. Sunshine in the heart is oftentimes of more value to one’s fellow-man than sun- shine out doors. The cheery hearted wo- man is always welcome, no matter where she goes. The pessimist is dreaded, for she always carries a sting. Mrs. Henry Ward Beecher said that it added immensely to the flavor of a “mess” of peas to wash the pods very clean and to boil them about fifteen minutes by themselves, then put the peas to cook in this water, seasoning as usual. “Cooking butter” is to blame for many spoiled dishés. The best of butter is none too good to cook with, as the heat brings out all the rancidness in poor butter. Cooking vegetables too long is ruinous to their flavor. They become sodden and water soaked, too. Get yourself a good table of time for cooking meats and vege- tables, if you have none. You will find it invaluable, unless you are a born house- keeper and cook and know these things by intuition. ——.>—_—. VICTORIA’S REGAL RIGHT. Why the Niece of William IV Was Called to the Throne. From the Boston Transcript. Several newspapers, in explafning to their readers how Queen Victoria came to suc- ceed. William’ IV, say it was because she was his niece. That is the truth, but only kalf the truth, for William IV had nephews and other nieces. George III's first, second, third and fourth sons were respectively the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV, who died childless in 1830; Frederick, Duke of York, who died in 1827, also without children; William, Duke of Clarence, who died William IV, June 20, 1837, without law- ful issue, and Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn, and Earl of Dublin, who died January 23, 1820, aged fifty-three, leaving as the sole issue of his marriage with Prin- cess Victoria of Leiningen, a baby daugh- ter, now Queen Victoria. The queen suc- ceeded William IV not because she was simply his niece, but because she was the only child of the brother next to him in the order of succession. Had Queen Vic- toria had a brother, she would in all proba- bility not have been a personage of histor- ical celebrity, save in the contingency of succeeding him. Her rights were those that devolved on her from her father. At the time she succeeded to the throne her uncles—the Dukes of Cumberland, of Sus- sex and Cambridge—were living, younger brothers of her father and junior to him in the line of succession in the order named. The Duke of Cumberland (who became King of Hanover on the death of William IV) was a man of such despotic temper and principles that all England cherished the Princess Victoria as standing between it and his succession to the throne. He had lawful issue,as had the Duke of Cambridge. The Duke of Sussex, a most estimable man, married twice, but these unions being re- Pugnant to the provisions of the royal mar- Tiage act, his children were barred from the line of succession. From the revolution of 1688 rose the Jacobite party, made up of those who supported the cause of James Il, his sons and descendants. The pictur- esque modern Jacobites do not recognize Queen Victoria, despite the fact that her succession is due to her Stuart blood, for she is a direct descendant of Elizabeth, daughter of James I, to whose heirs the title to the throne devolved by the act of Settlement on the death of Anne, i Summer Girls Who Take Plenty of CANOEING IS ALL THE RAGE JOST NOW a Gowns for Wear in the Woods and on the Water. OUTING SUITS OF BLACK Special Correspondence of The Bvening Star. SARANAC, N. Y., July 6, 1907. T=. ARE THE days of hammocks ana cheap novels, and of quiet siesias under the tre2s or on mossy banks beside brooks that have grown drowsy with their June babbling days when the ca- noeist seeks a cool and shady stream and paddles away to a quiet nook to seek t. repose from the broils and turmoils of town life. The society girl, who loves the artifcial luxuries of life, goes on board a steam yacht, where, surrounded by others of her Kind, she floats out on the bosom of the ocean, reiicved for a brief time of the pendent, athletic girl has a canoe of her own, which she paddles as successfully as she conducts the other affairs of her life. The sylph-like creature who prefers to allow another to steer her courae also finds @ piace—in one end of the canoe, that is balanced by the to her indispensable man at the other. If more want to go along in the party, there are other canoes; it is only necessary to know how to manage such a boat to establish the ideal situation of being in a large and enthely respect- able ccmpany and yet Isolated as com- pletely, so far as listeners are concerned, 85 one could be in the forest primeval. Canoe parties with a picnic luncheon are at their gayest. By August everybody will be bathing and loliing on the sand of the sea beach. But now the fad of the season 1s the boating party. Here, then, is the place for the serviceable gown—the dress that will bear wetting and a bit of mud. Black for Boating. Navy blue is usually regarded as correct- ly nautical, and makes a very pretty boat- ing suit; but it has been worn so much that it seems common. Although at first thought it seems rather gruesome fer a sporting costume, black has been found very serv- Iceable and attractive for such use. This icea has doubtless developed from the bril- Uantine bathing suit. Black bathing suits are more popular than blue ones now, and briltiantine haw been voted the best’ ma- terial. A very striking outing suit of black, re- lieved by trimmings of red and white, has been making a sensation here at Saranac. in the Adirondacks. The skirt is some. what short, though far from being reducea to the bicycle length. The jacket is an Eton, trimmed with red ard white revers, With cuffs to match. A red satin bow tie with a white shirt waist, and a white sai or hat with red and black band. are the finishing touches to a very stunning cos- tume: and when the young woman isn't really going. beating or planning to do any- thing else that iavolves injury to her ap- parel. she puts on her red shoes and stock- ings with black lacers in the ties. Some young women prefer to wear ging- hams and linens that can be washed when ed. A pretty checked linen worn by a {tor now out on the veranda has trim- mings of brown-ribbon and cream lace. The ON A SUMMER DAY, constraint of conventionality, which will not permit her to be natural, lest she ap- pear undignitied. Another type is the girl with health glowing from every pore and the blood of the Vikings leaping in her veins. This girl likes nothing better than to perch her- f before the mast of a stanch little cat-boat, and take the cool salt spray that dashes over the prow of the boat and into her own eager face. But the real lover of nature, whether man or woman, departs from the haunts of men into the very depths of the forest, where one can return to the lap of Mother farth and learn again the lessons that have been fergotien since the days of bare feet and pinafores, when every new flower or bug meant as much to the childish fancy as does a trip to Europe now. A Judicious Combination. Between the steam yacht and the forest, however, there are many degrees, and ac- cording to the grade chosen ye may judge them. Eve, herself, grew weary of para- dise uninhabitei, and sought diversion in the society of the serpent; and Eve's de- scendants, however much they may love nature, love man and mammon more, the result being a judicious combination of the two. Canoeing has grown fashionable, be- cause it affords such excellent advantages for comprehensive amusement. The inde- skirt has two ruffles of the material around the bottom. The waist bas a belt and col- lar of brown ribbon with a bow at the back of the neck and at the left side. A strip of brown ribbon edged with cream lace falls from neck to waist, and a similar trimmin; outlines the yoke. The hat which this visit- [or wears is a golden yellow straw with black chiffon and cream lace trimmings. Sashes and Parasols. Sashes are raging at most of the fash- iorable watering places. A red one is the most dashing and is therefore preferred. Red parasols have at last appenred, and having once shown themselves have gone perfectly ant. It was a puzzle to they didn’t come out ear- in the on, when everything else Was red and only the parasol was tame but now the wisdom of the delay is ap- parent, for if they had biocssomed earlier they would have been old before the sum- mer had begun, and on the wane in July rather than at their height as they are how. Any one can “wear” a red sunshade, no matter whether red is becoming in dresses and hats or not, because, instead of making the skin look sallow as it does in So many cases, it casts a rosy glow over the face that is becoming to everybod: So all the girls, whether blondes or bru- nettes, carry red parasols. Some of the prettiest of these gay sunshades have a white stripe running around near the edge. Nothing is prettier or more becoming when on the water than one of these same red sunshades. ELLEN OSBORN. LITTLE HOLLAND. A Proposition to Dike New Jersey’s Waste Land. From the Philadelphia Times, . New Jersey is beginning to interest itself in the subject of reclaiming the extensive tract of marsh land lying between New- ark and Jersey City and stretching up the Hackensack for a distance of eighteen miles. The tract, which is crossed by a dozen lines of railway, contains 27,000 acres, which produce nothing at present but swarms of mosquitues and a rank growth of bulrushes and salt marsh hay. The mosquitoes are a nuisance to the resi- dents of the neighboring towns, and the bulrushes and salt hay have very little commercial value. And yet the land on which they grow is doubtless the most fertile tract iu the state. The state geologist has just issued an interesting report upon tke subject from his consulting engineer, who discusses the methods and’ cost’ of reclaiming these lands. This he says, is just as feasible as the drainage of the fen lands of Eng- land or the ‘vast tracts which have been rescued from’ thé sea in Holland. He proposes that the’'work shall be done by throwing up “dykes! along the main water- courses and drawing the water off by a system of tide sluices and pumps ope- rated by windmills, as in Holland. He estimates the total’necessary outlay at $1,- 265,400, exclusive ®f the cost of the land. This would bs a trifle less than $50 an acre for the 27,000-acre’ tract. As every foot of'this land, if reclaimed, would be suitable*for market gardening, with the most extensive market in Amer- ica within @ stoné’s throw, the state of New Jersey ‘would find the undertaking a profitable investment if the figures of the engineer arexrorreet. A work of this kind must be done under the supervision of the state in order that there may be some re- sponsible control of dykes, pumps and sluices, but it is probable that the present owners would be willing to be assessed for the cost of the improvement, or sell at a reasonable rate to those who are will- ing to put money in the undertaking, so that the state would in the end be able to secure a return of every dollar of neces- sary outlay, and be the instrument of bringing under cultivation the finest tract of agricultural land in the state. The reclamation of this land, lying: as it does, at the very doors of Greater New York, would serve another important pur- pose besides restricting the mosquito crop and turning a worthless marsh into a gar- den, and that is that its cultivation would furnish employment and a livelihood to thousands of the idle population of the city. The experience of England and Holland having shown that the reclama- tion of this extensive tract ts fectly feasible, the work should be undertaken. There is a great deal more of this sort of Jand worth reclaiming in the United States, but the Hackensack tract is best worth reclaiming first to serve as an example to be followed elsewhere. ———_+-e+______ A Colony of Widows. From the Chicago Recor’. Mrs. Hattie N. Bemis of Arabia, Neb., owns a large tract of land in northwestern Nebraska, which she says she intends to give to twelve deserving widows of north- western farmers. In return she will re quire them to cultivate it without male as- sistance. She says that she will start them out with all the machinery they need, a sufficient numbér of cattle, horses, swine and poultry to serve as a nest egg, and money to last them until the first harvest can be disposed of. She ajmits that the climate is dry, but she proposes to instruct her wards In the operation of the Cam system of soil culture, by which method experiments have proved that the rainfall of the sectipn is sufficient to insure bounti- ful crops. The nearest women will be al- lowed to come to dealing with men is to sell their crops to them. If Mrs. Bemis should learn that a farm hand of the male persuasion has been employed about the Premises the farm will revert to her. Any member of the community who marries will also forfeit her title to a share in the property. ———_+-e+. A Secret Journal of Gossip. From the New York Sun. A strange newspaper, which many per- sons will be eager to obtain, had its ex- istence disclosed for the first time at the Von Tausch libel trial in Berlin. It seems that certain aristocrats at Kaiser Wil- helm’s court turn in the gossip they hear to an editor, who prints off-a limited edi- tion of the news thus collected for the contributors and a very few other persons. ‘To get at this chronique scandaleuse a member of the secret police forged, with full acquiescence from his superiors, the name of a nobleman high in court circles. ———+o+—___ Calling.a Man an “A. P. A.” No Libel. From Law Notes. After an animated trial, consuming ten dsysz, the police judge. of Omaha decided that it was not criminal libel to accuse a man falsely of being an A. P. A. man. One Bennett was accused of branding State Senator Howell as a member cf that order, to which charge Howell attributes his de- feat for election as mayor of Omaha. ———_-e-—_____ Every man has two wives—the one he has, and the one he thinks he has.—Life. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Proper Thing for Those Who Ride a 2 Wheel. Costumes That Are’ Cool, Practical and Sensible—The New Flannel Shirt Waists—The Latest Glove. Writh y for The Evening Star. The cycling skirts of crash. linen or pique which were worn by a few women last summer are very popular now, and with a trim, well-fitted shirt waist give a look of coolre and freshness difficult for a wheelwoman to acquire, for de- as the bicycle is to its devotees, » is a heating one, and looks sual observer. st models of crash skirts are not i, but laid in very full, deep ple Lack, and the skirt hangs most b ¥ ever. off the wheel. The hem is wide and has innumerabie rows of tching around it to give it weight. then the women who gives proper thought to her appearance finds it best to have weigh wn around the bottom or to at- tach the skirt by elastics. Care must be taken to select a crash Which nas been properiy shrunken or the results will be disastrous. Unless one ca: afford to buy the crash and have it made by a very gcod tailor it is wisest and nOSt economical to buy it ready made at some reliabl2 shop. Excellent skirts with the very best and latest design can be bought for between four and five dollars, aud at times they are a little less than that. With the crash skirts bloomers of linen are worn. Some women cling to black silk, but the vicissitudes of cycling are many, and experience as an onlooker on mauy occasions has convinced me that the dark bloomers should never be worn with a light-colored skirt. Unfortunately we cannot sec ourselves as others see us, or many a fair bicyclist would mend her ays, and her costume. Common sense and reflection, however, should do much to impress the fitness of harmony in these articles upon women who have not the luxury of a maid nor the advantage of a tailor of experience. With the linen and crash skirts shirt waists of linen are often worn, and with the pretty, but unserviceable, white pique white shirt waists are worn, and the pic- ture is a charming one as long as one does not meet with heavy dust or mud. The ideal shirt waist for all outdoor exercises in summer is of flannel. Unless one has Seen the new flannel shirt waists this brings up an image of something dark and hot. The fiannel shirt waist of the present is as far removed as possible from this repellant creation. Summer Flannels. Summer flannels now come in the same pretty and dainty striped effects as the summer silks. They wash very well, and | do not muss easily. These shirt waists are made simply with a yoke In the back and very little fullness in the front. The sleeves are quite small. The cuff is narrow, and either turned back or stuaight. The differ- ence between the turn-back cuff of last year and that of today is that the former was wide and conspicuous, the present is narrow and unobtrusive. White cuffs can, of course, be worn, but the sensible summer cycling dress knows them not. In place of the stiff white collar and formal tle a hunting stock of soft silk is worn. Hunt- ing stocks of various summer wash goods in pale colors are also popular, and are more economical than the silk, since they can easily be laundered. The least sugges- tion of a tie having been worn once too often is sv depressing that the wash ma- terlals are preferable unless one has a well-filled purse. The heat has at last driven the high, un- graceful bicycle boot to the wall. During the early summer long and hot discussions waged as to the modesty and suitability of the golf stocking for women cyclists. No one had the hardihood to affirm that as free or easy an ankle motion could be se- cured in the high boots. Hardly had preju- dice given way and admitted the golf stock- ing when heat like unto that of the torrid zone descended, and before its powerful ar- guments golf stockings have in most cases given way to black silk hose of a heavy quality. These cost from $1.7 and necessitate low black bicycling she With the golf stockings tan shoes are per- missible and often seen. They are, how- ever, more conspicuous. Any high note of color drawing at ntion to any particular point of a wheeling costume from the crown of the head to the sole of the foot should be sedulously avoided The hat par excellence for the summer bicyclist is the ever popular white sailor. The bands are varied to suit the fancy of the wearer. With this is worn a chiffon or spool silk vell, generally wound around the crown of the hat instead of being worn over the face. The sailor, however, by no means throws into the shade the chic walk- ing ha’ ing brim and low are more French than i are only to be foun w shops which have distine- live styles of their own. The washable chamois glove is as suit- able for cycling as it ts for all other out- door pursuits. The cyclist who wishes to save her hands and 5 cool is rejoicing thread or silk bac! n palm. The pal, chamois Jackets 1 to be, and the ¢ remind one of the boots of our cousins. They are so “sensible.” The smaller the bag the cyclist wears de- pending from her belt the better. Jewelers are showing very pretty designs of diiferent shades of poplins, vivid greens and purpies, with silver chains. This is rather dress for a plain summer outfit, but if the belt matches and the colors are not too vivid the effect is not bad. The leather belts are rather stiff, but there are many lined beits of softer materials which are quite as suitable and much more comfortabie. —_——. Brains in a Modern Giant Building. J. L. Steffens in Scribner's. The brain that is engaged in this bust- ness directly is divided into more than a hundred trades, each one of which has been developing its particular branch with the same strenuousness, boldness and ingenu- ity that have characterized the architec- tural engineering. The architect himself has been laboring with a thousand consid- erations, not even hinted at in this article. He has been studying out such other gen- eral problems as ventilation, light, economy of space, convenience, propertion, besides attending to special applications of all his principles, and those of all the other trades tLat entered the building with his, and add to the ever-varying problem. The ngineers have been pondering such essentials as joinings and strains and foundations. In Chicago, where there is no hard-pan within reach, they devised a floating “raft” of Steel and concrete to lie flat on the shift ing sands below the lake level, and on that they build with such perfectly even ibution ef weight that when the whole pture of twer or mere stories setules it sinks plumb. The elevator builder has . such precision that the number of is de ined by The rt the prin- nee. The machinist fitted his enormous plant to the dimen- sions of the cellar, and has plotted with the elevator man to use for the improved heat- ing system the exhaust steam from the power engines to warn the tenant after it has lifted him to his.floor and lighted his room. The heater man has arranged so that all the tenant has to do is to set a gauge opposite the degree Fahrenheit at which he would like to have the temera- ture of his room kept, and the machinery automatically keeps it there. a oe A Different Matter. is les of Sanitary si From Life. Browne—“Salt is cheap the world over. Towne—“Humph! Did you ever buy chlo- ride of sodium at a drug store? Mr. Bloobumper, “at George Washington is the first in the hearts of his countrymen, who comes sec- ord?” “I don’t know about that,” replied Ben- ny, “but Independence day is the Fourth.” —Harper’s Bazar. AT THE HIGHER CULTURE SOCIETX, ‘From Life. ‘The Hon. Humphrey Slider, 5 p.m.—“My friends, what we need is to fix our minds cn higher things—in our readings, in our conversations, in our entertainments.” I would pass unnoticed; ut its mind on the same