Evening Star Newspaper, July 3, 1897, Page 18

THE EV. NING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY ————— YOUNG LADIES’ SUMMER PROMENADE COSTUME. COOL AND ELEGANT The Two ‘Things That a Summer | Gown Should Be. RAGE FOR GRASS LINENS AND LAWNS In Great Variety of Design Suita- | ble for All Occasions. | A PROMENADE COSTUME! right, 1897, by Wm. Da Bois.) | Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. | TURIN, June 20, 1897 | The season stards in its zenith Ike the sun whose hot rays have driven all who | are fortunate to be able to escape, into the ecampagna, where our fashionables spend the day in true Italian “‘dolce-far-nient and leave their protecting walls only when the shades of evening fall and cooling zephyrs dispel the Ingering heat and arti- ficial light enhances the beauty of lustrous dark eyes and raven tresses and enchant- ing gowns. : Lightness and airiness is the “parole” for summer wear, and how delightfully grass linens and lawns fulfill this pur- pose. They come in great variety of de- sign, plain or striped with dainty colored silks or embroidered in various patterns, and often elaborately spangled or beaded. Fine sheer grass lawn is to be worn over | daintily shaded glace silks, many of which are first accordeon pleated. A graceful gown of very fine grass lawn, having a | pale mauve satin stripe running through | it, shows two ecru Van Dyke point col- | lars as were worn last year, utilized in a | novel way to fall over the shoulders and define a sort of round yoke on the full | blouse bodice of striped grass lawn over @ | lining of mauve taffeta glace. The full puffed elbow sleeve of lawn {s unlined and | finished at the elbow with a band of fold- ed manve satin ribbon and graceful bow. High-standing butterfly bows of the same ribbon decorate the shoulders, and the folded collar with its full loops and bows ut | the back is likewise made of mauve satin ribbon. The fullness of the blouse is con- fined at the waist by a wide folded belt of ribbon, and the hips are made to appear | larger by large full ribbon loops ending on both sides of the front gore of the skirt in long, wide streamers of different lengths, which form the only decoration on the | plain, rather close-titting skirt of mauve- striped grass lawn over a foundation lin- ing of mauve taffeta glace. A large, black picture hat with drooping plumes’ lends an artistic finish to this useful costume, | so easily constructed and which will be | found suitable for all occasions. Soft Linings. Instead of the taffeta or silk lning on which flowered or dotted muslin dresses are vsually mounted, plain printed batiste or lawn is now much used. It certainly makes a cooler and often a daintier aown if a less rich looking one, and these soft | ceedin: | fulled into two large box-pleats. | ed lace-edged flounces of black mouss linings come in all pretty shades of pink, lilac, green or other tints that form ihe backgrounds of figured muslins. The wild craze for materials heat pressed in the manner known as sun pleating, ac- cordeon pleating, &c., extends even to bi- cycle skirts, which prove to be more useful than ornamental, and to the newest and most expensive underwear. The effect is | almost invariably charming when the gar- | ment is new, but alas! for the practicability of it. Heat-pressed garments are not meant to be sat upon, as the straight folds of light material is easily marred and an _unex- pected rain or a few days of humidity de- tracts all their beauty and leaves them limp and sagging rags. As trimmings for flounces, rosettes, &c., the heat-pressed pleatings are far more serviceable and ex- iy soft and dainty. An exquisite model is made up of richly blending red and green Japanese silk, with yoke of em- erald green velvet, pleated flounces of black mousseline de soie and rich black moire ribbon. The blouse bodice closing at the back is draped over a lining of red satin. | The back of the bodice 1s quite close fitting, except for a wide box pleat in the center, to conceal the fastening. The green velvet yoke comes only to the chest and does not extend to the back. Full heat-pleated flounces of black mousseline de sole, edged with arrow silk, machine-made lace and decorated with two rows of black satin baby ribbon, border the yoke in front and pass over the shoulders, forming full epau- lettes over the slightly puffed upper arm of the silk sleeve. Very narrow pleated flounces also decorate the yoke in vertical cascades, which alternate with narrow ips of gold-spangled passementerie. The with span assementerie and 1s trimmed at the back with full pleated flounces. Wide black moire ribbon forms the folded belt | end large butterfly bow. The Japanese silk skirt is cut quite out with red satin. arrow and lined through- ‘The back widths are ‘The front gore is defined at both seams by two gath- ered heat-pleated widths of spangled, black usseline de soie, confined below the knes bows of black moire ribbon. Five pleat ine de soie run diagonally from the hem of the front gore over the sides, ending at the b: | back under the box pleats. A Promenade Costume. We illustrate, today, a model for an ele- gent promenade costume for a young lady. It is to be made of sheer white crepe de chine over mauve and gold changeable taf- | feta. The skirt is quite plain without any trimming to mar the exquisite light effects produced by the combination of colors and textiles. The full blouse bodice, composed of the same materials, has a short zouave jacket of mauve velvet, elaborately em- broidered with silver sequins and crystals and led with taffeta. The deep epaulettes of mauve velvet embroidered to match the zouave jacket and likewise lined with taf- feta, lend additional fullness to the upper arm of the slightly fulled teg-c'-mutton sleeve of crepe de chine over taffeta and finished at the wrist by a very small cuff of mauve velvet. The falded belt and | standing collar are also of mauve velvet and a bow of crepe de chine trims the back of the neck. A chatelaine of chased silver with amethyst settings goes well with this costume. It is fad of ultra fashionables to attach to their chatelaines such a num- ber of trinkets all more or less useful and some very ornamental, that the fair wear- ers approach is quite noticeabie by the merry tinkling of her ornaments, remind- ing one of an Indian nautch dancer. Me Cappy, Teta LED (@E Gaspart, Rosa E TorTA, Turin.) Interdependency of Inventions. From Casste Magazine ‘The advent of important an@ valuable in- Ventions is oftea dependent not upon the brilliant Insptration of some individual in- Ventor, but upon the general and gradual advance of the state of the art to which they belong, making their occurrence not only possible, but almost inevitzble. The bicycle ts an exceilent example of this kind of growth in mecharical construction, | since, while tt Is one of the most important mecha: nd = commer- has eve n produced, lopment to the parallel tm- metal and rubber working, ' | it | | ted Ss tuy had not of drawn steel tubiug action of a light, and yet | he original | never have led | to the practical application of the pneu- matic principle without the substitution of the rubber construction, which only the ad- ¥Yances in rubber manufacture made possi- ble. This is but one instance of what 1s apparent in many other lines of work, and there ts littie doubt that, if the patent rec- ords of the past fifty years were thorough- ly studied by competent specialists, many inventions which at the time of their con- ception were failurea, simply because of the impossibility of executing the ideas, would now be found both practicable and valua- ble. as A Young Citizen. From Life. Teacher (severely)—“You were late this morning, Wiillie."”" Little western boy—“Yes’m, but it wasn’t my fault. I stopped to help lynch a man.” It mat‘ers little what it is that you want cWhether a situation or a servant—a “want” ad. in The Star will reach the per- son who can fill your need. are no greater than those borns by thousands of your fellow-crea- It ig the correct thing to strive to convince yourself that, after all, your personal fo OF cronses HOUSEHOLD HINTS Make baby as free as possible. Don’t swaddle its little, soft legs up in pinning blankets, but Ieave those legs loose, so they can Kick about and grow strong and healthy. It is a crime to put so many clothes on a baby. People of mature years fret with the weight of clothing they must carry about, and It ts not fair to load little helpless children down with them. It may seem.old fashioned and, according to the present day etiquette, it is decidedly so, but it certainly does sound nicer to hear children say “yes, sir,” and “no, sir,” than to hear them say plain “yes” and “no” when asked a question or requested to do some little thing, and it is absolutely refreshing to find among the spindle-legged little imps who wear knee breeches and car- ry watches now and then one who lifts his cap when spoken to on the street by a lady. After all, a few n:ore dear old Tur- veydrops in real life would make it a more comfortable existence. Life in its completest sense is worth studying, worth considering how to get the very best out of it and suffer the least. Our children should be taught from their infancy to make the most of thelr advan- tages, that they may get ali the good out cf life and avoid all unnecessary pain. The old hymn said, “It is not all of Ife to live nor all of death to die,” and there was much homely philosophy in it. Just to live for self alone is sordid and selfish and grows to sin at last. To seek death to avoid the cousequences of this selfish sin is not un- common, and the death is but typical of the life. Lead your little ones gently but firm- ly along the right path from the start, and you will have nothing to regret in after years. Don't neglect the little wcolen waist- bands for the children when you go away for the summer. When the evening gets a little cool and you let the children play outdoors, slip the waistband on and there will not be so much danger of taking cold. A little cashmere sack, unlined, if you please is also a nice thing to carry along on littie country trips, in case the weather should suddenly turn cool. Some children suffer dreadfully with hives, and it is always dangerous to drive them in by applying things on the outside, as they denote impurity of the blood that ought to be brought ou* instead of driven in. While ycu are giving it some mild blood medicine you can ease the dreadful itching of the hives by baths of salt water or by applying damp soda directly to the bumps. Both are good remedies for mosquito bites and will do valiant service in ridding one of chiggers. Coal ofl will still the troublesome mites, even after they have got to digging. If you are in chigger grass for any length ot time do not wait for the torments to get in their work, but dampen a cloth with the cecal oil and rub yourself off just as soon as you get home. In an hour you can take a bath in salt water and feel reasonably safe from the pests. “How to keep cool, though roasting, that is what I want to know,” said a lady at the soda counter of a well-known drug store, one day last week. At the same time she was eating a glass of ice cream soda. After that she ordered a glass of chocolate soda, and when some friends came in she ac- cepted an invitation to sit down and take a dish of ice cream. The only wonder is that she dia not have sunstroke before the day was over, with that load to carry round. Temperance in eating and drinking, cleanliness, absolute freedom from 1]I tem- per, and clean clothes, will work wonders for people who suffer from the heat. Enough work to keep one from thinking of the hot weather is also beneficial. ‘'em- perance in eating and drinking 1s more than all the rest put together, however. You can’t expect heat to lower, as long as you are feeding the flames with com- bustibles. Sweets, fat or starchy stuff all feed the heat of the body. Fruits, sour things, lemons, limes and melons are all cooling. The woman who drinks sour lemonade instead of tea or coffee, who eats fruit instead of cake and pastry, pud- dings and custards and ice cream, and who eats broiled steak instead of highly seasoned rcasts, or a bit of delicately broti- ed fish rather than half a spring chicken will find that she feels much more comfort- able when she gets up from the table than she would if she had eaten a four course dinner. The habit of drinking beer, ale, or any kind of wine, is questionable at all times, but in summer all are to be avoided by the woman who wants to lose her flesh instead of putting on more, and who de- sires to cease perspiring profusely. All the drinks mentioned bring out the per- spiration, and that is one of the most dis- agreeable of all the summer Ills. Bathe at least twice a day In warm water. Water that is warmer than the atmosphere will make you feel much cooler on leaving it. Do not wash the face except at night. A vigorous rubbing with a damp towel 1s quite sufficient during the day, and will not leave the face burning. Dusting with taleum powder will help to cool it. If overtaken with unaccountable thirst which water seems to leave unquenched, fix a pitcher of unsweetened lemonade. Two lemons to a quart of water. Roll t lemon and then extract the julce. Never cut the peel into the water. Put in the water, and set in the ice box to cool. it will be found to quench thirst better than anything else, and will not get cold enough to do injury, though you drink the whole quart. Don't keep the range heated up all day just for the sake of having hot roast for dinner at 5. Procure your roast the night before and make ready for the oven as soon as it Is hot in the morning. Roast till It ts rarely done, and lift to the platter. Make a nice brown gravy, and put away in the Ice box in a powl. Just before dinaer, slice your roast as daintily as you please, arrange these evenly mn the stew pan, and pour over them the heated gravy.’ Set over the blaze just long enough to heat the meat, and you will find very little dif- ference between a roast served that way and one that has been cooking for two hours. You can cook peas and beans till they are soft, and set away unseasoned in the ice box and for dinner all that is necessary is to heat them, season witn salt, pepper and make a milk gravy and they are just as toothsome as though you hed been roasting yourself for an hour with them over the afternoon fire. EMPEROR OF CHINA A NIGHT HAWK. Frequently Receives Visitors Between 3 and 4 in the Morning. From the Chicago Record. The Emperor of China is one of the hard- est-worked men in the world, and accord- ing to a curious custom that I have never heard explained he turns day into night. Some of the most important events in his daily program take place after midnight, and he frequently receives visitors by ap- pointment at 3 and 4 o'clock in the morning. When Li Hung Chang returned to Pekin from his tour around the world the em- peror received him and heard his reports between 4 and 5 o'clock a.m. He has often received ambassadors at similar hours. The emperor’s work day begins at 1 o'clock p.m. He first sees the members of the privy council, then he devotes an hour or two to the consideration of their reports and rec- ommendations, and then he receives the members of the official boards, viceroys, governors and other officials who have come to Pekin to be presented or to pay tribute or receive instructions. He sits up- on a throne upon a raised platform. They kneel before him with their foreheads touching the floor until he commands them tu lift their eyes. They are kept in this pesture so long that the old men always pad their knees with cushions. The em- peror dines about sunset, and has the third meal of the day at midnight. Sometimes he retires as early as 1 or 2 o'clock a.m., but he is often at work until daylight. See The Sunrise of the Poor. A darkened hut, outlined against the sky, A forward-sloping field, some cedar trees, Gaunt grasses, stirred by the awakenlag lireeze, And nearer, where the grayer shadows lie, Within a small, led equare, one may descry ‘The beds wherein the peor first taste of ease, Where dewy ree vines shed their spicy lees Above the dreamices ashes, sleatiy A ionely woman leans there, bent and. A Outlined in part agaivet the sbadowed hill, In_part against the sky, in which the day Begins to blaze—O earth. so sweet, so still! The woman sighs, and draws a long, deep breath: Tt ts the call to labor, not to death. Robert Burne Wilson in the July Century. ———___+ e+ ____. No Trouble Ahead. Mrs. Flatleigh (tearfully, to her hushand, returning: from businese)—“‘Oh, Oscar, the Janitor’s boy licked little Herbert today!” Flatleigh (greatly relieved)—“Licked little Herbert? Oh! that is all right, Antoinette! I—I feared you were going to say that Her- bert had been licking the janitor’s- bey!” 3, 1897-24 PA ES. SUMMER GIRL IN SUMMERY GOW: FASHION’S CHANGES Vagrant Whims and Fancies That Rise and Fall 10 THE PROFIT OF THE DRESSMAKER Gowns That Are Suitable for Mid- summer Wear. SEASHORE AND MOUNTAINS at (Copsright, 1897, by the Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. « NEW YORK, July 1, 1897. HIS is WEEDING season, and fashion \ crops need to be tended as carefully as onions. Experienced growers are on the alert to twitch out all sorts of vagrant whims and fancies that sprouted in the spring and now threaten to interfere with the regular de- velopment of harmo- nious shapes and fabrics. That is one way to put it. An- other way is to say that trade demands change, and that when a season's out- put of proposed changes has been intro- duced to the market there follows a strug- gle for existence and a survival of the fittest to survive, with corresponding protits and losses to the lucky or unlucky backers of competing innovations. Shirred sieeves have gone under. “Dal- matic" epaulets, reaching from the collar band down over the shoulder seam and al- most heraldic in their flash and color, are on top. The Eton jacket has bowed to the storm and bobbed up serenely after its Passage as a “mess” jacket. It has shed rolling collar, revers and lapels, and comes tq the front with a very high collar and a wide open front curving away at the waist and humoring the natural desire of the shirt waist to peacock itself. Accordion pleating has triumphed. The amount of it in use increases hourly. It won't stand wear, but this is a point in its favor trom a trade view. Its multiplication means money. Draped skirts are making a fight for it. Their fortunes are yet dubious. At the moment skirt trimmings figure as draperies, but the skirt itself clings closer than ever. Ruffles are enjoying unruftied prosperity. They can't be too plenty and there is no limit to their kinds. The cross- ed bodice will last till autumn. It has Its season, like the warm weather vaudeville. The cape gets no more consideration, Kor wear over thin gowns the zouave mantle with wing sleeves has killed its rivals and seen them buried. Changes in Progress, Some novel gowns prepared for garden party and lawn wear illustrate changes that are in progress. For a Fourth of July fete on Staten Island has been finished a silk figured muslin frock of pale yellow over a white silk foundation. Over the surface of the muslin are scattered noney- suckle leaves and clusters of the flowers in shades of red. The design is woven into the muslin in silk threads of soft color. The skirt {s abcut five yards around, and is turned up a quarter of a yard at the hem. This deep hem is insisted upon with muslin dres¢s, and another point is that the hem must be threefold !f there be no foundation skirt or skirt trimmings. The soft fulled waist is trimmed with frills of the muslin, covering the front under a white silk bo- lero, which is worked with Turkish em- broidery in gold and silver and set with garnets, The sleeves are drawn in to the shape of thé’ arm,‘ with shoulder frills above. The meckhand and pointed girdle are of golden yellow ribbon, matching in color the rosqs that trim the white straw hat. The brim of the hat is edged with garnet, this little touch of rich color put- ting the stamp of genius on a singularly charming costume., At a wild rose “breakfast” given at On- teora in the, Catskills a few days ago a ecol ‘‘summery” dress was of a very fine and delicate batiste, with a mauve ground figure with yansies. The skirt was trim- med with eight narrow flounces edged with lace, the topmost of which was set just below the hips. The front of the trim, close-fitting waist was formed of perpen- dicular rows 9f tucks alternating with lace and narrow puffings. The opening came at the left side under a doubie ruche of the batiste. The sleeves were tucked trom waist to shoulger pyff. Mauve ribbon shad- ing into purple confined neck and waist, and its color was repeated in a flat hat cov- ered with deep green leaves and crimson roses. Radical Kiltings. One of the most succezeful of the sun- pleated dresses, without which no wom- an’s wradrobe is reckoned complete, was worn by a young girl who stepped ashore from a French steamer just in time to be @ guest at one of the last of the June wed- dings. Her costume, which hailed ‘from Paris, the home of such radical kiltings, was of an ivory yellow cashmere, upon which green ribbon an inch wide had been sewn perpendicularly at regular intervals. When the materiat was pleated the ribbon came below the pleats and was hidden until a breeze, a step, a quick movement made the folds open and flashed the color into view. The blouse bodice, which wad pleated Ifke the skirt, was crossed diagon- ally by a band of lace insertion, from which a@ deep fold of lace hung. Ivory-tinted silk was used for the belt, neckband and coat sleeves. These last were finished with pleated shoulder puffs of cashmere. A Butterfly Gown. A garden party at a Long Island country house one afternoon this week called out the brightest, airiest ard most picturesque flock of butterfly gowns I have yet seen. One of wild rose foulard had the upper part of the skirt quite narrow and cut in vandyke edged with rose pink velvet. The lower half of the skirt was formed by a deep flounce of white silk gauze embroider- ed with pink and gold. The foulard bodice turned over upon the shoulders in a deep round collar and opened in front over white gauze laid in fire pleats and strapped with rose velvet. The jaunty hat of white leg- horn straw was wreathed with roses. A second gown, and one highly character- istic of this season’s tastes, had a skirt of black gauze entirely covered with four deep flounces of the same filmy stuff. Each flounce was cut in deep vandykes edged with Valenciennes lace. The waist was of rose-colored taffeta striped with black and was worn under a white guipure bolero of odd and original shape. This was edged with black velvet and ornamented by black gauze epaulets. A small gauze hat was worn with trimmings of roses. Of Indin Crepe. On a Newport veranda overlooking the cliff walk and the sea, tea made in oriental fashion was served some days ago to a group of women, the costume of any one of whom would go far to make a Gdress- maker's fortune. One of these leaders of fashion wore a gown of white India crepe exquisitely embroidered upon the skirt with large ruse mallows and foliage. The same colors were repeated In bands of conven- Uonal design running around the bodice and alternating with frills of-pleated white gauze. The sleeves were ornamented in the same way. Waist and neckband were of rose satin. The hat was of white straw trimmed with rose gauze and mallows. A dress of white veiling almost equally notable had a flat skirt adorned with two circles of deep vandykes in blue silk. The bodice was covered with arabesque designs cut out in pale blue. The white lace sleeves were beaded with Dalmatic epau- tets in blue. A dress for seashore wear which is the English taste rather than the French has @ skirt of red cashmere trimmed with black galon set about the hem in vandykes. It has a Jacket bodice with black satin fac- ings and waistband and black galon edg- ings. It has a blouse of cream silk mus- Nu and is worn with a red straw hat trim- med with popries. ELLEN OSBORN. a o A CURE FOR UNHAPPINEsS. Regular Employment Will Dispel Fits of the Blues. From Harper's Bazar, ‘The most effective cure for unhappiness {s occupation. And some occupation which engages the mind as well as uses the boly is best, not only as a temporary distrac- tion, but as a permanent cvre. This is rea- scnable; for the mind which has been forc- ed to exert itself in a given direction at- tains a better poise, and so grows stronger and clearer to comprehend and conquer the unhappiness which had befcre mastered it. ‘These are general truths. We all know these things are so. Our difficulty is to arply the truth to our own special case. For truth is of no value to us unless we do apply it, just as the best medicine in the world is >f no use unless we swallow it. Som2 unhappy or moody people—which- ever you like to call it—ure so without out- ward cause. They are rot in right relation to the world or to their own circumstances, but they do not know exactly why. And they often cling to their state of gloom, not desiring to change or tc outgrow it, but rather hugging themselves with the delu- sion that their discontent makes them superior to the rest of the world. But others are really placed in cireum- stances which cause them unhappiness, who would like, ‘f they could, to cunquer their feelings, even if they cannot control the circumstanzes which caused them. it is usually women whose mood or state of mind is thus made by their feelings. And when women begin to think out the matter it means that there is help to be had some- where if they only try to get it. For when the wish to conquer one's feelings is there, the means to do so will certainly come. This persistent looking for relief. must take the shape, first, of thinking out some Plan of regular employment or work in which you can forget at times or ignore the circurrstances which make you unhappy. Arrange the work, if possible, in some other place than that where your unhio- piress lies. In these different surroundings choose something new to do which you like, which will make you think about it, and which will persistenly engage your atten- tion and time. You may like gardening, or some out- door amusement—walking or rowing. Take one of these up and make a fad of it. Or begin to learn china painting, or botany, or geology, or photography—which is a most excellent cccupation or amusement for a woman. But emphatically do not rush into any of these things without thought, or you will not stay at it, and it will do you no good. Consider your plan carefully, choose deliberately, and having chosen, force your- self to conquer difficullies, and follow the course you have laid out into the new lfe where you will find that it leads you. For such a plan, pursued deliberately and conscientiously, means that you begin to create for yourself a new life among the ruins of your old one. And as sure as you undertake and carry your plan through, just so surely the day will come that you will find yourself clearing away the last crumbling remnants of your miser- able old circumstances, while your new life-thought will stand in the center, firm and true, tts topmost pinnacle pointing to heaven. —__-+-e-+_____ ‘They Are Still Funny. From Puck. Mr. Twynn—“The romance of McBride's honeymoon lingers still, although he has been married five years.” Mr. Triplett—‘How do you know?” Mr. “He jokes with his wife about her millinery bills. Only rounded FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Importance of Being Well Shod Cannot Be Overestimated. Russet Calf Becoming More Popular All the Time—Patent Leathers and Rainy Day Boots. Written for The Evening Star. ° When one wears a No. 3 boot it requires no courage to enthusiastically adopt t broad, low, heavy shoe which fashion now prescribes, but when one is blessed with a foot which requires a No. 5 it is a different matter. This accounts for the shoe one most often sees on well-dressed woman, a compromise between the old pointed affair and the new ultra width. Yet the broad toe, the wide extension sole, and the heav- fer leather are worn with all out-of-door costumes by Dame Fashion's decree, and very satisfactory it is that she and com- mon sense should thus be allied. Only with carriage gowns, ball gowns, or the atr- jest of summer creations are thin-soled shoes permissible. For summer wear the low shoe has al- most entirely displaced the buttoned or laced boot. It is a matter of congratula- tion that the attempt to foist the unbe- coming buttoned low shoe on us is also a thing of the past. Russet calf grows more popular year by year for every-day wear, and the time will yet come when it will be worn all winter as a rough-weather shoe. The shades vary. This season ox-blood is preferred. With a black gown or even a black skirt a black shoe Is preferable. No woman should wear a russet shoe with an elaborate toilet any more than a man should wear a russet shoe with a frock coat. White canvas shoes are out of favor, though still worn with white gowns when one is not going beyond the hotel veranda, and even then they are largely super- seded by crash and linen shoes in the nat- ural flax color. Many linen shoes are made in blue or brown to match outing costumes, and are very cool, though not to be recommended for durability. The artistic and graceful bronze tie and slipper have returned, and are the p. tiest of al! foot gear for evening wear. No other color has ever taken their place. There is something poetic about them; they are the aristocratic as well as the artistic members of the shoe family. A novelty which is gaining in popalarity as the summer advances 1s the pntent- leather finish for russet shoes. The russet patent leather has the merits and defects of its brother in black. In summer the merits predominate, as there is no danger of cracking the leather by putting it on when the shoe is chilled. The patent-leath- er russet, like the black patent leather, is a shoe for dress wear, though it is recom- mended by good shoe men to replace the ordinary russet for outdoor and ordinary | occasions. The Care of Shoes. A stern moralist who wished to reform the world once said in my hearing that each generation had to be taught all the virtues, as if no one before had ever been taught to be gcod. When I look at the condition of the shoes of many otherwise well-dressed women 1 am tempted to be- lieve that a pa-nphlet on the use and abuse of leather should be presented with every | pair of shoes sold. Even then it is a ques- tion whether the matter would end. Even women who are most fastidious about the shoes of the men of their family are most indifferent about the looks of their own—often never polishing or clean- ing them from w:ek’s end to week's end. Many a well-gowned woman thus spoils the effect she intends to convey. Women of even moderate means shoul: always have at least one change of shoes. Shoes last longer and keep their shape and freshness better when not constantly worn. A pair of boots kept especially for rainy or damp weather will be found a wise in- vestment, as no fine or new shoes should be subjected to the indignity of rubbers. The rainy day beots should be heavy, and should lace or button very trimly about the ankle. If of stout material, with cork soles, they will wear for years, and rub- bers may be dispensed with, except in the very stormiest weather—thus doing away with a great bugbear. Very few of us can afford boot-trees such as our wealthy cousins affect, nor should I care to fill my shoes with oats or bran, as some enthusiasts advise. The toes of ‘ev- ery pair of shoes, however, should be spoonfuls are required, of | | | other object has been made of glass | coffin, whose inventor claims for it structibility. Of course, it is compara’ with cotton before they are worn Thus the ugly break across t toe is avoided A cloth should be kept to wine the dust from s es when they are taker they are damp, vaseline, or the which Dought for five or te box, ould be rub under any circumsianc > Frenc dressings which are sme on with a sponge which fs su the bottir Without exception the shoes For black calf shoes use the regular men’s polish, taking care to buy a reliable make Regular sets of brushes, ete . in boxes can be bought at any drygoods shop from fifty cents up. For russet calf and Tusset or Mack patent leather nothing is as satistac- tory as meltenian cream. [t is not ve minutes’ work to rub it on, and rub i cht, and it is clean and ¢ There are a number of good Tusset shoes. Once in a whil will need a bath, a sponge bath of «: soap and water. This takes off the wir and stains, and the cream dressing should then be applied to polish. All of this ing takes less time to do th and the results are gratify’ a russet 5 CURIOSITIES Made of Threads 5; Alry From: Harper's Bazar. When the story of Cinders translated into our language and ihe slip- pers of vair, or fur, became slippers of verre, or glass, the translator would have been amazed to know that slippers of gliss were not a fairy impossibility, But it is not a great while since in this country a patent was taken out upon glass slippers. That is really not extraordinary, since, in fact, the uses to which glass is now put la was first are almost innumerable. There was ex- hibited, some years ago, a bonnet made of glass, with all its trimmings and furbelows, the flowers as natural as life, the ribbons with the luster of satin; and since then an actress added to her wardrobe the spiendors of a dress woven all of spun glass. The glass thread is drawn out toa fineness that makes it perfectly pliable and elastic, it has no liability of breaking, and it can i almost as delicate and as air: gauze, and can be given a magnificent might not a dress be, woven of iridescent glass, the wearer fairly wreathed and garmented in a cloud of luminous r: bows! It is not Lkely, however, that this fabulously splendid material will ever be so cheap that such dresses would be com- mon enough to go out of fashion, fut the imagination fails in the endeavor to con- jure before it anything more resplendent: no empress nor oriental beauty in histo or romance, no goddesses visiting ma:kit not Juno in her immemorial toilet, w ever clad in anything so shining and gorgeous as that dress of spun glass might be, with all its play of light and color, It is in curious contrast to this that an- as the finest color, How indestructible, but when we tear bottles in any collection of antiqu where decay has disint-grated the or pure white transparent x!ass and rendered it @ mass of splendid color, one can imagine the incongruous appearaace of th é e the glass after some dozen centurics, dead wrapped now in a sheet of flame, a now as if in the sapphire of the tcf the sky. It is not likely that glass coffins will ever be largely in demaad; but if the satin-smooth and shining ribbons should ever be easily had, and the lustrous flowe: and the spun-glass web, how eagerly the young and gay would make them their own! To be sure, they might be recarded as rather dazzling, and they might used only for occasions of »xtraordina Y splen- dor; but it might be a mfort to those who look for magnificence and shall have ex- hausted the beauties of silk and satin, samite and cloth of gold, to know that they have always so sightly a material to fall back upon for scenic effects. Meanwhile the more modest of us may ecntent ourselves with the imitations of gems, wonderful and not to be detected, that are now made of giass and with strings of the lovely Venetian beads where a _giass bubble coated within by a solution of certain fish- Jes has the many-tinted softness of the pearl, and all of its beau y. except the romance and poetry and pathos of the sea which clings to the real thing. The poet, talking about the fairy tales of science, may well have had some of these simple wonders in his fancy, for while a bit of quartz is a simple and primitive sub- stance, it is as great a wonder as some more important things that such flinty stuff can be transformed into something as light as the haze that floats in the air. If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer.