Evening Star Newspaper, June 26, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JUNE 26, 1897-24 PAGES. DERBY OR COACHING COSTUME. SHUN BRIGHT COLORS Well-Dressed Parisiennes:A ffect Som- ber Shades. BUT ARE NONE THE LESS STRIKING Felix Writes of Fashions Designed for Summer Wear. ee SIMPLICITY THE FEATURE (Copyright. 1 by Wm. Du Bo Special Correspondence of The B PARIS, June'l6, 18% Tne Grande Monde of Paris now fills h is and Champs Elysees with such | 2 ae | broadcloth back, much lighter than broad- of color and form as to vie with y blossoms of nature, and the sea- ions have been positively desig- the “Concours Hyppique.” the shew, and very recently by Grand Prix or Derby. The pretty and b to be simplicity year are particularly the keynote seems | but it is the simplici uires absolute pe dresses which re qvisite “raffinement” which means the of a lifetime to the couturier. best dressed Parisienne avolds glow- ing colors and affects a somberness which semetimes none the less coquettish or striking. All the colors of this season are reutral and soft; there are above ali the ary shades of the fashionable gray, like c-pucin, the darker gray of the and mauve-lavender, a delicate combination of lavender and pur- roug>-petunia, violine, terra cotta, turtle-dove’ gray, biscuit, ish yellow, ivoire, etc.; finally such practical colors as navy, black, seal and greers. Easily Draped. ‘The stuffs are all soft and easily draped, or transparent, blerding in color with the bright silk underskirt. The latest novelty | in lainages is a very soft cashmere veloute, fine as silk end exceedingly supple and velvety, which Is dr: marvelously in 2 large variety of sha Nun's veiling is much employed for summe: i teilet, as with its fir such ‘a soft transparenc a ravishing effect when sik lining of differen color. This material ts st ‘solel! that it produc draped over t But harmonizi usual clos2~ ne-half yards fi fullness of the what more lim * overdress is d in width than th ade of silk. The blous- bodic ivory nun’s veilirg and ele under arm seams nderwaist of “frais bodice is cut square and quite low at the front and back and the de filled out by a chemisette of he ted guipure, which ccvers lete vy ivory. the neck and chest smoothly. The high standing collar is of ‘fralse” taffeta covered with guipure and edged with a very full and quite narrow ruche of black chiffon, which alse defines the decollete. The plain, unlin- ed and close-fitting sleeve of cuipure, ex- ceedirgly flattering to a pretty arm, is finished at the wrist by a black chiffon Tuche and is surmounted at the shoulder by a large fantastic bow arranged of pleat- ed nur’s veiling over “fraise” taffeta ai edged with the same black chiffon ruching. The wide black leather belt ts studded with gold filigree and semi-precious stones. A large black picture hat with nodding plumes makes this costume suitable for the promenade or garden party. Chie Costumes. Barege byzantin, much finer still than nun’s veiling, but more perishable, also Tesembles crepe de chine. Another trans- Parent tissue, but much coarser than the first named, ts Le Montagnard, which makes up into light but practical dresse: Chic costtimes are made of heavy etamines from the Pyrenees and cany: like coarse Packing linens. ‘These strong and héavy materials Ty effective in black and white checks. Gauze grenadines in all their dainty variety enjoy as much favor as ever. For tailormade gowns, heavier ma- are chosen. The drap d’ete is an fabric with a twilled face and re Is rool cleth and therefore suitable for elegant taiiorm: gowns. Our model is designed to be made of drap d'ete of a soft tan shade. The close-fitting skirt which is padded over the hips and worn with a slight extender at the back, illustrates the t toward draped skirts by a very ight drapery issuing from the front of the * pointed bodice. The fullness 13. all confined to the b: and the skirt is slash- ed at both side » one incision reaching to the hip, the other one to the knee, and both a strip of mauve silk velvet of quality to which the tan cloth is 5 n ingly buttoned, as the decoration, coa- sisting of mauve velvet buttons and silk pseudo- ttonholes, evidently desig- A bow of wide mauve velvet ribbon, by rhinestone buckle, finishes the shorter sh, and long ends and graceful loops of the same ribbon, likewise fastened by a rhinestone buckle, adorn the left hip where the longer slash finishes. The bodice makes an agreeable change from the much favored biouse form, as it is tight with the exception of a slight gather- ed drapery ov the left side and ends at the back as well as the front in long sharp points, covered with a girdle of mauve velvet. The waist closes in front as far as the drawn drapery, which is gathered by another rhinestone buckle, then the cloth affects another slash like those on the skirt, and opens over an insertion of mauve velvet. to which it is likewise fastened by tiny velvet buttons. Qn the left shoulder another graceful bow of mauve velvet rib- bon with long loops and ends, falls over the arm and is held by a buckle. The back of the bodice is mless, the cloth being cut bias and drawn over the form to fit without a wrink The close-fitting sleeve and high. anding collar also stimulate the slash trimming and the mauve velvet forms a ‘oming flaring cuff. Another smaller bow and buckle decorate the right side of » collar. A hat of crinkled mauve taf- fe with velvet brim and trimmed with a high-s nding mauve plume and aigrette and rhinestone buckle on one side and a j bunch of violets on the other, completes this simp! but striking gown. . FELIX, Paris.) Historic Quebec. From the Paris Daily Messenger, Strolling in lower Quebec, ily fancy yourself in Amiens or Dieppe. In the upper town there is mere E. i but everywhere an amusing mixture. O the same card you will read, “Maison a Icuer” and “House to let” on one side of the dcor “Pas d'admission sans affaires” and on the other “No admittance except on business.” This bilingual necessity causes a little extra painting and printing. Each “railway cro: “* must be marked like- wise, “Traverse du chemin de fer,” and evel notice must be printed also in full as n “Avis.” The blending is often curious, as when two adjoining shops e their announcements one in French rd the other in English. Along the j to SOMETHING TO BE THANKFUL Grande Alle, running right across_ the Plains of Abraham, you might be in Bru: sels or Paris, only that “Clifton Terrace” seems to recall you to Kensington. Ameri- can travelers for whom Europe is too far distant are advised to go to Quebec, there find a bit of the medieval old’ world transplanted to the new, but still embalmed cieat religious sentimentalism, upon rush and roar of modern unrest Ss little effect as the Atlantic ” on the cliffs of Cape Breton. French continues uppermost until you pass Montreal, but from Ottawa and Kingston to the Pacific the legend of the nearly uni- versal tongue is like that of the Paris shopkeepers, who announced “English and American spoken.” In most of the best schools English is taught, and a large num- ber of the people are conversant with both languages, English being indispensable for commerce. FOR. The doctor—“It would be unprofession:! in the tient until your family physician has been notified.’ Wife—“But my husband is dying, doctor!" “Then, madame, he will die in the proud consciousness that it ts due to the that a medical man refused, at a critical time, to commit a breach of professional eti- quette. extreme, madame, to see the pa- HOUSEHOLD HINTS Home starchers often fail to get the starched things stiff enough. A woman who knows, says that a wine glass full of strong borax water in each pint of starch will remedy the difficulty. Palms, India rubber plants and all foliage pets need a bath every little while, just the same as human beings. Once a week is probably often enough. A fine soft sponge and plenty of lukewarm water, with a soft and tender touch, will do the business. Shabby black belts, shopping bags and such things can be made to renew their youth by giving them a coat of shoe var- nish. Two coats will answer still better. Don’t teach the lisping child slang ex- pressions, or permit others to teach them to it, nor to be impertinent to its elders. Those things sound very cute when the child is learning to talk, but when it gets a little older, it is called pert, and will soon be said to be impudent. Wash the dishcloths! Careless house- keepers have no idea of the death and de- struction that lurks in an old dishcloth. Any old thing will do for a dishcloth, in the opinion of far too many, and when it gets too black to use any longer, a new rag is substituted, and the old one thrown on the ash heap to rot. The dishcloth will sour in half an hour these blistering days, if it is not washed with soap and rinsed and hung in the sun to dry. All the washing will not sweeten it, unless it is put where it will dry. It is simply awful to sit down to a table where the dishes smell sour, but you often do, in nice houses, too, where you would expect to find everything im- maculate. If you can stand acids, try a lemonade made pretty sour, for your morning appe- tizer. It sometimes works wonders in clearing the system of its bilious symptoms. Sometime, perhaps, we will learn that the stomach is the seat of most of the ills that flesh is heir to. If the digestion is good the tone of the whole system remains normal, but the instant the digestion is impaired everything goes wrong. There are more drugs sold to sweeten the stom- ach and promote digestion than all the others put together. The sensible thing to do would be to eat in moderation the rich viands put before us, and the instant that we find certain things do not agree with us to give them up rather than go on eat- ing them and taking doses of drugs to cor- rect the trouble. If you will insist on spoiling fresh fruit by putting it into pies do make the pies fit to eat while you are about it. The wo- man who skimps her shortening in pie crust dough is guilty of a crime. It is only fit for food when it is puffy and crisp. Use frult unsparingly, and let its juice be julce and not water. Most fruit needs as much as its bulk in sugar when made into a pie. Flour the upper side of the bottom crust, sprinkle flour pretty thick over the fruit before putting on the top, and flour the under side of the top. Bake the pie in an evenly hot oven till it is golden trown. A white pie is an offense against good taste. An undone pie is simply hor- rible, so be sure that your oven bakes well in the bottom. Made after this fash- ion, there is not much danger of the juices all boiling out while the pie is baking. For the sting of an insect, dampen the cork of the ammonia bottle and touch it to the spot. Baking soda dampened and put on like a plaster is good, and camphor is sometimes efficacious. Never put damp clothes into the solled linen hamper. They take on a musty odor, and if the weather is at all warm, they sour, and will mildew everything the dampness touches. A fruitful source of disease is found in old rags. One of the strong argument: Mr. Dingley used against imported *‘ dy,” which is “‘chawed"” rags, was the fact that this shoddy was made of rags gath- ered from everywhere, that they were not cleaned, and that they carried unmention- able diseases with them. It is well enough to save the rags, but wash them and boil them before you put them in the rag poke. Then you will be sure that no scarlet fever or smallpox will ever come out of your rag bag. “Seems to me the servants of the present day are dreadfully incompetent,” sighed a woman the other day, and one who, though a grandmother, couldn't show one of her maids how to make a bed properly. “My mother’s servants knew how to do every- thing. Ming can’t boil water without burn- ing it, it seems to mé The woman’s mother was a capable Yankee, who could roll up her sleeves and do a wash, make pies, embroider an altar cloth, or milk a cow. Her mother taught her that it was a disgrace not to know how to do everything about a house and farm. After marriage she never had to put her knowledge to use, excep: to teach her servants. She taught just one set, for they were well taught, and remained with her till she died. Incom- petent servants are the reflex, in too many instances, of incompetent mistresses. That man or woman never lived who would not be lax in the performance of duties if the “head” seemed indifferent, or ignorant of how service should be rendered, or did not know how to correct shortcomings. When servants find that the women they work for are ignorant, they soon become slip- shod and indifferent about their work, be- cause the mistress cannot show them how to do things differently. To clean fine imitation laces, partly fill a large-mouthed bottle with hot water, and put to each pint a teaspoonful of powdered borax, shave up a tablespoonful of white soap and melt it over the fire, and pour in- to the bottle. Into this drop the lace, put on the top, and shake the bottle vigorously. Let it stand for awhile and shake again. Pour out half the water, pour in enough to fill the bottle two-thirds full and shake again. Empty all the water, just draining from the lace, and fill two-thirds full of lukewarm water and borax in old propor- tion. Lastly, rinse in clear warm water, slightly blued, if you like, spat the lace between clean folds of muslin or a linen towel, then spread on a clean sheet, and smooth every thread and loop. When al- most dry, fold and place under a heavy weight. It will be smooth when dry, and will not need to be froned, and will be as fresh as new. Never rub, and do not wring. The very best way to wash fine lawns or organdies is to make a big pailful of flour starch in the usual way. Perhaps a recipe will be welcome. Have boiling at least two gallons of water. Take a half pint of sifted flour and stir in a pint of cold water, with a big tablespoonful of table salt. Mix till it is smooth. Stir it into the boiling water and cook for five minutes. It should be about as thick as good cream, and if it isn’t, stir up more flour. Strain it twice, for it must be as smooth as satin. Pour into a tub, and when at blood heat put your lawn in and souse {t around for three minutes, squeezing it in your hands, and rubbing the worst solled spots gently. ‘Then pour in a quart or two of warm water, put in the wash board, and rub the dress gen- tly. One starch water ought to clean the dress, but if a second is necessary, make it the same way. Don't use a bit of soap. Use warm rinse water, make just a little slick with starch, made as for washing. Dry in the shade, but on a warm day, with the material wrong side out. If ironed well the gown will be nearly as pretty as when new. ———————— The Ornamental Parlor Maid. From the Boston Herald. It has been a growing custom for those young men of sufficient leisure to make afternoon calls on their lady friends and sip with them a cup of tea. The custom is bound to become immensely popular should the feature thus enunciated become uni- versal. Here is something decidedly new: It is the ornamental parlor maid, a lady-like be-- ing, whose waist belt must not measure over sixteen inches and who is corsequent- ly the embodiment of “style.” She is per- mitted to wear a dark blue serge costume, with white cuffs and collar, while upon her perfectly dressed hair perches a coquettish white Considering her corseted condi- tion, no labor save that of handing cups of tea in the drawing room is expected of her. But, please, think what a new eleIment of danger this modish handmaiden may intro- duce into certain households! She is a prize figurehead of housework; the envied of all her peers; the admired of every visitor of the masculine gender; the criticised of every other woman who hasn’t thought of setting up a sixteen-inch waist tea bearer. Well, well, perhaps we had better stick to the thin-legged footman or to the butler or even to a plebelan “girl” who doesn’t go to ® manicure after all! —_+e+—___. The Uncle (unfeelingly)—‘But he should mes added, ‘So does everybody else.’ | see tans. FRENCH FREEDOM WITH ENGLISH CONSERVATISM. EXCEL THE ENGLISH American Shops Are a Genuine Boon to Women. LOOKING FOR STYLES FOR SUMMER The Principal Drawback is the Ready-made “System. NEW DRESS MATERIALS a eagle ws (Copsright, 1897, by the Hagheiler Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of Ths Evening Star. NEW YORK, June 24, 1897. goed ARE NO shdps ke American shops. After playing hide and seck and biiad’ Yhan’s buff among the huddled coxynterg and stuffy, cramped spaces of London establish- méhts, “where a man higes h}J¢ a dozen lit- tle stoges and runs them as:one big store stwithout taking down the partition walls, the air, the light and the elbow rcom in Yankee shops are worth while. A London dealer may send you out of doors and around to the next entrance to find the continuation of the glové counter, if you have been considering yellow and ask to And he doesn’t encourage un- necessary shopping by any reckless pro- fusion of elevators. You must know what you want and want it very much before you face the liveried flunkeys at the door of a London shep, tread the dim labyrinths within and engage the services of the ycung woman behind the counter, who has to unearth her goods from so many bur- rews that even the most wanton “shopper,” seeing the trouble it Js to show goods, is cured quickly of ‘Just looking” at things. The young woman herself {8 nicer to deal with than most of her kind on this side of the water, which is, perhaps, why the con- sclence pricks {f articles are not purchased after she has gotten out a search warrant to discover them. American shops are big- ger than those of London, busier, more democratic. A great deal more is done in a large way for the comfort of the shopper by the management, a great deal less in small ways by the people with whom di- rectly the shopper has to deal. New York shops carry more goods and more varied gcods, but there are drawbacks to this ad- vantage. The ready-made system has de- veloped so enormously in America that a crowd of women on 23d street during the busy hours reminds one of the afternoon walk of the pupils of a continental convent school, all in “costume de pension.” The 23d street colors are not so quiet and sim- ple as the black cashmere frocks and broad white hats with white plumes of the school children; but if the blue blazer women cculd be bunched on one block, and the gray blazers on another, the white ducks on a third and the brown crash suits on a fourth, the women who were left out of these groups #nd who didn’t belong to the grand army of black skirts with shirt waists wouldn’t pack a single bridge car. Ready-mavie sults are far better fitting and smarter than they used to be, but this fact {s cold comfort to a woman who has bought the very latest thing in tailor gowns abroad and has come home only to tind the pride of her heart copied by the hundred in cheaper goods, but with precisely the same effect in every shop she enters, and rubbing elbows with her on every ‘street corner. Yes, American shops are great institutions, Outing Suits. The woman who objects to becoming simply a private in the uniform of the “outing suit” must study colors as well as cut and material. Pique. costumes are made this summer in white with a bell skirt and with a slasked‘itda jacket trim- med with white, red orblug pique gimp. Substitute for the Etoncthe sewer French Jacket bodice, and forithe ‘Rell skirt the seven-gored bias to biag/skt¥t, use a soft, creamy gray pique instggd oF white, wear with it a front of pink China silk, and you will have, if your pink is well chosen and shows opal lights, costume infinitely more becoming with the seam) lmentary ef- fect of its beautiful cofors than the hard and uncompromising white of the regula- tion suit and one that will let you feel more individuality. Rather a dark complexion, clear and with some color is more favora- ble for this combination. Among the newer summer materials there is a very pretty silky batiste that ought to be utilized before it becomes more common, if not less charming. It can be found in a wide range of white and cream tones, in pinky mauves and in clear pinks and blues, and if it be made with a plain skirt turned up in a deep hem and a crossed bodice whose folds are carried around to the back and lnotted, nothing is wanted but a little lace and ribbon and a girl inside who is having a good time to produce one of the most Successful effects of the season. g Artistic and Beautiful. The printed lawns, Swiss muslins, deli- cate India mulls, flowered Dresden mus- lins, rosebud organdies and Marie Antoi- nette striped: muslins are so artistically beautiful and so varied this seagon that the task of contriving original dresses with their help ought to ve an easy one. ‘There was packed off to Newport this week: an airy costume of soft, canary colored muslin figured with white The diaphan, ous skirt was cut and made, as is now aimost universally customary, separate from the white silk slip over which it was to be worn. The slip measured three and a half yards round, the skirt four. The skirt was finished with tiny lace- ecged ruffies of the muslin, with flat bands of insertion and with dainty tucks, though such is the latitude of fashion that it would have been equally in order with no trimming but a deep, handsome hem. The waist was soft, full and blouse-like, with a front of insertion and a bolero tuck- ed across the front and edged with a lace- finished ruffle. From rosettes of reddish violet started ribbons that, fastening the bolero in front, crossed upon the breast, crossed again behind and were brought to the front again, forming a beit, and finally disappearing under a handsome buckle. The sleeves were close-fitting, with very small puffs upon the shoul- ders and with groups of tucks along the arms. Swiss Muslin, At a daisy wedding celebrated a few days ago in an ivy grown church of Staten Island a younger sister of the bride wore a dress of white Swiss muslin that was at once simple and very original. Over a white silk slip was worn the full muslin skirt gathered with a lace-edged heading upon a yoke that fitted snugly about the hips. A narrow ruffle finished the hem. The full blouse waist was drawn to the figure by three rows of gathers arranged like a corselet band. There was no waist belt, a white silk cord giving all the finish necessary. The sleeves were glove fitting, with rows of lace insertion set in on the outside of the arm. To restore the full- tess of the vanished shoulder puffs round epaulets were bordered each with three deep, full ruffles, filling the space from the neckband well out upon the arm. Lace ruches at wrists and neck harmonized with the white lace hat covered with flow- rs. . A seashore dress that varies wisely and weil from all the stereotyped ‘‘cuting” pat- terns has a narrow skirt of grayish blue cicth trimmed with lines of dark blue braid starting from the hips at either side, curv- ing to the front and running down to the hem. The bodice is a blouse jacket with short basqves and belted with dark biue. It opens with cream colored revers over a front of braided cloth, and fastens beiow with rows of tiny pearl buttons. It has a yoke of braided cloth and is meant to be worn with a flat hat of gray blue straw, trimmed with dark blue ribbon and white wings For Wheelwomen. American women who take their wheels abroed this summer will find their cycling suits nowhere approved. The Norfolk jackei, short divided skirt, high boots and felt hat that comprise the usual outfit here- about are criticised elsewhere individually and collectively. The boots especially come in for hard words in England, where it is said that American women spoil their chances of beccming really good riders by their high, stiff foot coverings. English riders wear low shoes, long skirts, Eton jackets or loose-fronted coats and sailor hats. Shirt waists are taken for granted. Tre English skirt is much more graceful on the wheel than our short ones, and it is not to be denied that English women on an average make rather better figures than we do, but the extra length and weight of the costume, together with the greater weight of the wheel, are handicap enovgh to take most of the pleasure out of cycling for any people less energetic than female Britons. The French object to American cyclirg outfits as lacking both the chic of their dashing bloomers and the digrity of the English skirts, which amounts to saying that we are a practical people with a practical dress, that com- bines a good deal of the French freedom with enough of the Erglish conservatism, a verdict that few Americans would quar- rel with. The mixed suifings are the pret- tiest shows this summer, the hard “pave- ment” grays that are coming in so plenti- fully being quite unnecessarily trying to most complexions. ELLEN OSBORN. SE GIVES OFF LIGHT. An Ever Active Glow Ixsucs From a Recent Bit of Uranium. In a recent lecture before the Royal So- clety Lord Kelvin vindicated the correct- ness of Volta’s early theories in relation to contact electricity. He showed that when a zinc plate and copper plate are brought into contact with one another and then separated one wes charged with pos- itive electricity and the other with nega- tive. He further demonstrated that this was not due to oxidation by air or the moisture of the atmosphere, as is stated in the text books of the day. Lord Kelvin exhibited several other experiments illus- trating electrification produced by means of dissimilar metals, and showed some curious properties possessed by uranium. Ii a plate of this metal was connected wita an electrometer and touched by a plate of aluminum positive electrification was pro- duced, gradually changing past zero to negative. He also demonstrated that the rays given ff by uranium in a dark room are a constant property of the substance and not a slow radiation of previously ab- sorbed light, as has been claimed, but he could offer no solution of the mysterious action of this metal. How the Qucen Got Her Meissonier. In the Contemporary Review Mrs. Emily Crawfurd, wiriting her reminiscenses of Queen Victoria, thus describes the pur- chase of one of the cleverest little can- vases Melssonier ever painted. The oc- casion of the buying of the picture was a Nisit to the Palais de l'Industrie in Paris. The Jnited States Government will not buy alum baking powders at any price, and yet most of the cheap baking powders contain alum. leveland’s Baking Powder is purchased by the U. S. Govern- ment. This fact in itself is a guarantee of quality. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. FOR “UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Aooessories That Are Important in the Fem- inine Toilet. Kid Gloves and Shirt W ists Should Never Be Worn Together—Foot- wear for Summer. Written for The Evening Star. Kid gloves and shirt waists have been divorced for incompatibility of tempera- ment and leoks. The ease of one does not agree with the stiffness of the other. The decree was long ago promulgated by order of the judge of fitness of things. Yet evi- dently the order was not given the neces- sary publicity, for ‘the two are constantly associated, even by some up-to-date-wo- men. The proper glove for wear with a shirt waist is a white or yellow chamois, stitched with black or white. Buy a good quality, wash carefully with castile soap and all summer long one may be weil and seasonably gloved at small expense. The four-button chamois glove is the most popular, and is worn with even summer silks and the most elaborate summer cos- tumes, though fer the latter purpose white suede is the most suitable. There is a mousquetaire or Biarritz white chamois glove which is a comfort for two two seasons at least, and has been known to last three. The seams and back of the glove are stitched with black, thus a rip may be mended without showing in the least; they may be washed day after day without damage, and for traveling, shop ping, seashore or country are invalua They may be put on or off with that e: which means so much on a_w: and may be purchased for $1.25. well- known fact, learned by many through sa experience, that no chamois glove under $1 will wear well or keep its shape. So bar gains may as well be ignored, in this | at least. Gloves and Velis. White, dressed kid gloves still bravely h their own, but they are no longer cons’ ered as suitable as suede for afternoon wear. Indeed, some authorities go as far as to prohibit them entirely after midday But for summer wear kid gloves of any sort are no longer in favor. They are very warm, and, worse still, they look it, and are quite out of keeping with the idea of freshness and daintiness which one should always strive to give on a summer day. With a shirt waist and blezer or reefer costume the veil may ie discarded with- out a secret ccnsciousness that there 1s still one element lacking to a complete street attire. Yet as veils always give a finishing touch, particular women are w2a ing plain chiffcn veils of black, blue, brown or white, tossed gracefully away from the face and wound around the brim of a sailor hat. The veil is so arranged that it could easily be dropped over the face, yet one seldom sees that done, so comfortable 1s the conscicusness of its proximity with- out its warmth. This is a good ide; more ways than one, for although the c” fon veil is becoming it does not stand hard wear, and nothing is more impossible than to distinguish objects clearly throug’ it. ‘The very latest of these veils are woven with five narrow ilk stripes in the borde>, and no dot. A yard and a quarter is needed for an ordinary hat, and the veiling sells for 55 cents per yard. With plain bord it may be bought as low as 55 cents per yard, but it will never wear as wel nor be as serviceable for traveling, bicycling or the seashore es the spool silk’ veils at about half the price. Colored Hosiery. One always hears zood gloves and good shoes mentioned in the same breath, but in this era of low shoes stockings should come in for their share of care in wearing and in choosing. They grow more be wil- dering in color day by day, but for the woman of moderate means moderation m everything else is good taste, and plaids and gay colors should be kept for the privacy of one’s home or for visi:s to one’s friends in country houses. It is hardly necessary to say that black stockings with tan shoes are impossible, yet one does occasionally see them. The stocking must match the shoe. Tan stock- ings are more tempting than ever th‘s year, especially the open-work lisle thread, which are now within the reach of very moderate: purses. A saleswoman of long experience confided to me not long since that no tan stocking had yet been put upon the market which could honestly be war- ranted not to fade. Sad news for those ot us who cannot buy new ones as soon 2s the fresh coloring is gone! But with care, tepid water, mild soap. no sun,rand no NOVELTIES IN FIREWORKS, News of Interent for Those Who Have Money to Burn. “Anything new in fireworks? Yes, price list. “How's that?” “Prices have gone up from twenty-five to fifty per cent,” replied the manager of a@ great fireworks manufacturing company, up to his ears in the busiest weck of the the busiest month of the year, but cheerfully ready to talk. “Box of firecrack forty bunehes, sixty crackers in a bunch, costs about one dollar. Dealers make up little bunches to sell for a cent, though; noise is stili cheap enough.” “What excuse is there for higher prices?” ‘Oh, the labor is costly and the new tariff raises the price of chemicals—yes, I know it hasn't gone into effect yet, but its already making material expensive. Then, too, there's something else. Maybe se of the manufacturers are tire doing business for nothing, and hav of fixed up a list. A fireworks trust no: just a business agreem, are higher, whatever's the cau ‘There's another thing. This July bus’ is changing character grad- ually, and in some ways for the better. “rackers are so chi of kind 2 Oh But pri purth of p, and have nm for so long a time, that the boys begin pop- ping 'em two weeks beforehand, which od for the irade. But on the Fourth it- self there's not nearly as much noise as it the good old days. Bicycle, of course. Bi cycle hits everybody somewhere or other All the boys who have wheels go off or century runs and the like and don't get back until after dark. Grown-up folks are by far our best customers, s they buy ornamental fireworks for use at night. This part of the business is grow- ing fast: has been really revolutionized the past few years. I'll tell you a pre custom. A f years ago the people liv- ing on the ‘garden biock’ in upper Brook- !yn combined and put in a dollar or sc apiece for a celebration. They had speech- es, songs, the reading of the Declaration— a regular old-fashioned time of it—and at night a fireworks show. The popers took it up, and you'd b surprised to know how many such ‘neighberhood clubs’ there are now. Some that began just by a Fourth of July blow-out keep it up all winter with social of one sort or anothe “Are there Ny no novelties except the Pp e list?” “Plenty of them; only that's the most im- portant. Aquatic and aerial fireworks are the strong novelties, as compared with the old set pieces—which are always good, though. The paper balloons are an exam: ple. We make ‘em now in the shape of pigs, elephants, men and horses, and that more fun. Then we hi works to them to explode in th: Besides, they're fairly cheap. What are called electric light effects are a favorite modifi- cation of the old rocket idea. Chromatic candles with rainbow effects, spreaders’ which throw out showers of what look like electric Ii and batteries of colored stars, fired up right, are novelties of this season, thoug! the principle of all is not new. We havc upright mortars that explosive bombs raight into the air. You can fire a bomt ive feet in diameter, if you i It wil) burst and make a fine show, but the ave age private exhibitor wouldn't use many of them at $180 for a single shot.” 2 eee Cost of English From the London ‘Truth. The chancellor of the exchequer went out of his way recently to explain how little the monarchy costs England. The crown lands, he said belong to the sovereign and produce $2,060,000 per annum. The queen re- ceives instead of this revenue $1,925,000 and the rest of the royal family Therefore cost of monarchy 000. The entire cal lation proceeds on the erroneous assump- tion that the crown lands the private property of the sovereign. This they are not. They originally forme jon of Royalty. $1,060,000. the total te a the general revenue of the a . out of which came the maintenance of the sov- ereign. That abject flunky, Lord Bute, wishing to curry favor with George III, inserted in the civil list act which was pa merarch’s accession a renunciat of the crown lands, and this renunciation by a sovereign of what he did not possess is the basis of the theory of these crown lands being ihe private property of the oc- cupant of the throne. ed on that According, therefore, to Sir Michae! H Beach's own figures, monarchy costs England $2,985,000. The real amount Is, hewever, much higher, for there are num- berless expenses incidental to the institu- tion which he does not include. The hard fact remains that in France the President receives $200,000 per annum, and fulfills with decent splendor all the duties of the head of the state, whilst with England the monarchy costs nearer one million pounds than one million francs. A defense, there- ironing, they may be kept about the shade of the shoes they are to be worn with for a season oc so. It all harks back to the homely adage of no gain without pain— this question of fitting dress and harmo- nious ace»ssories, but it is worth time, labor and thought. —_—>__ A Choice Offered. From Life. “Is the boss in?” he asked of the book- keeper. “Which one do you wish to sec?” re- plied the bookkeeper, “the office boy or the typewriter?” fore, of monarchy on the ground of econ- omy hardly holds water. a Dampened Spirits. At a school examination in Lincoln, R. 1, some of the children were asked to give their ideas of the expression, “His spirit: were dampened.” Only one hand went up, and the little fellow, on being invited t¢ give his explanation, said: “He had beer putting water in his whisky.” peer pee meee The Fond Mother—“Everybody says he such a pretty baby! I’m sure’ the poct was right when he said that ‘Heaven lies about us in our infancy.