Evening Star Newspaper, May 1, 1897, Page 16

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“THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAY YM RE ro tter majests snd the Princess of ‘the Royal aed Imperal Pacaly = of Germany, ANS == tts Conn i A SUMMER GOWN. C GOWNS AND FABRICS Summer Styles Foretold by a German Master. AMERICAN CLIENTELE PROUD OF HIS Jules Bister Describes a Dainty Or- gandie Frock. SOME TIMELY SUGGESTIONS —_>—____. (Copyright, 1897, by Wm. DuBots.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. BERLIN, April 23, 1897. F FASHION HAS her headquarters in Europe and there concelves of her cre- ations, she finds he= most responsive fol- lowers in the new world. ‘That the Americaine is excel- led by the Parisienne only in chic and ele- gance is an acknowl- edged and establish- ed fact, and we cos- tumiers gener ally feel assured of the success of cur gowns when the wearer is an American. We know that summer arrives earlier in America than here, and light airy toilets are worn there long before we lay off our warm clothes. Our design today, there- fcre, Is made in advance to meet American requirements. It is intended to be made of pale blue and white striped organdie ve- lotrs (an organdie with an openwork white stripe). The simplicity of its make-up will WE NW) MK Permit of its being handed over with im- punity to the tender mercies of the laun- dress. The skirt has three ruffles. each edged with cream-colored real Valenciennes lace, an inch and a half in width. The blouse is made loose over a close-fitting lining, which closes in front, while the blouse drapery is fastened in the under- erm seam. The yoke has two rows of the ruffled lace running lengthwise over the shoulders and terminates over the chest by 2 band of cream-colored Valenciennes in- sertion. The little inserted vest is of or- gancte velours, with the stripes running horizental!; it is also decorated at the neck with a strip of insertion, and a ruf- fle of lace forms a comfortable collar. The elbow sleeve consisis of a large puff at the shoulder, close fitting upper-arm decoraicd with two rows of insertion, and a deep Hounce edged with lace. Wide white sa‘in ribben encircles the waist twice, forming @ graceful folded belt, and finishes at the back with a high-standing loop and ends that fall almost to the end of the skirt. gown looks equally well made of ging- ham ard embroidery or torchon lace, or of jawn trimmed with machine-made lace. It may also be made cooler by leaving out the little v or making it detachable, in which ruffled lace should ran’ all e square decollete. juggestion for a useful as well and easily latindered warm is as follows: A fine lawn gown with millefieurs design on white ground twining around a narrow black stripe, has 2 full skirt trimmed with three ruffles in which the stripes run horizontally, which are edged by narrow black machine-made Valenciennes of fast color. he blouse has an unlined yoke of white lace, cut V shape, and the sleeves are unlined, reaching to the elbow, where they terminate in a fiource like those on the skirt. The crown- ing feature of the whole gown, however, is @ detachable tunic and fichu drapery’ of goarse black silk lace. It consists of a lacie satin belt, to which are attached two eatin straps forming a deep flounce, falling over the sleeve and ending. in narrow Points at front and back at the junction of the straps with the belt. The same wide black lace also forms the tunic which falls over the skirt from ‘the belt, and which is lorg at front and back and shorter and full over the hips. Two black satin ro- settes in front and two at the back of the belt and long sash-like streamers of wide Diack satin ribbon complete this novel ac- e23sory to the summer tollet. Beautiful textiles grace the shop windows this season. Grenadines are revived and stand in high favor, although their expen- siveness does not place them within tho reach of every purse. One of the daintiest novelties, a very filmy gauze, is striped ‘with a very narrow colored ribbon and Val- enciennes insertion. In light gray, fash- ion's favo-ite color this year, this material is particularly fascinating, as thé white in- sertion harmonizes so well with the soft gray and daintily shaded and when made up over a lining of old rose or helio- trope giace taffeta, it is admirably suited for evening or “teat” wear. Seasonable Fabrics. Motre canvas {3 an open-mesbed all- woo! material, generally made up over dif- ferent colored linings, which then brings out the wetered effect. Nun’s veiling is Teceived as an old friend; it now comes with a hemstitched berder, and will be much used for yourg ladies’ toilets. Irish pcplin finds a rival in Liberty poplin, which is tighter and mere lustrous than the first- named. Heavy silks will be banished dur- ing the warm season, and all will tend to soft. clinging and draped effects. Soft surans and foulards will be worn, and designs are printed instead of warped. Poika-dots, familiar to all, are shown on silks and woo.ens. Laces have never been so much used as now. Some handsome dresses are entirely made of this becoming material. Others of silk, have deep flounces of lace trimming the skirt, while the bodice has rows of narrower lace as a front or covering part of the front, and sometimes the entire bodice. Even the Plainness of tailor-made gowns is relieved by lace jabots and cuffs. Lace is also lav- ishly used in trimming hats, and it makes most becoming collarettes and high neck- wear. It seems as if we were transported back to the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries when we see the high rufis and Medici collars gaining in favor, as they do, and justly, too, as nothing flatters the face More and lends stately dignity to the poise of the neck and shoulders than these dainty feminine concefts. An odd and pretty collarette ts of black mousseline de sole, accordion-pleated, and has tiny white ostrich tips strewn all over it and bows of satin ribbon at the back. Black and white continues to be stylish and striking, as well as dignified. Picture hats in black and white are very becoming to young faces. Red survives the winter, as does purple. A stylish wide-brimmed red straw sailor hat has a full ruche of red mousse- line de soie encircling the crown, upon which are placed six black Mercury wings. A bunch cf red geraniums is fitted under the brim at the back, with a small bow of black veivet ribbon. Lo. QULEs BisTER, Berlin.) Turning It Round. Edward Everett Hale in Christian Register. I should like to ask some lady who is corfronted by the domestic service prob- lem what would happen to her if she should drop dcwn from a balloon in Treb- izond tomorrow morning, wita two dough- nuts in her pocket and a bit of cheese, end with nothing else to eat. I should like to ask how she would regard some princess of Trebizond, who stepped out of a door, and sald to her by signs, “My dear American friend, if you will come into my house and wash my children and put on their clothes in the morning and lake them off at night, and if you will Wash the tea things for me, I will teach you to speak the Armenian language, and will give you a comfortable hom: Be trank, madam, and say, would not you regard this person as a sort of angel of God, and would not you know that the Christian religion had had something to do with her training? In point of fact, she would be doing unto you as she would be glad to have you do unto her. Now, as it would say in Phaedrus, you have to turn this little parable round the other way. Here is this identical Armenian woman. She is on the sea at this moment, and very seasick. She will land ir Bcston within ten days. Is it not in you to say to her: “My dear sister, you cannot understand a word I say in this language; but all the same I will take you into my house for the next six months. I will teach you the Erglish language; and you shall take care of Maud and Frederick and Polly and Dol- ly, and you shall wash up the table things, and, in general, make yourself of use in the family, while I am teaching you En- glish. And next May you will be able to stand on your feet in this world.” ———+o+____ Billiards for Women. From the Chicago Post. A billiard hall for women is being built in St. Louls. One department in the struc- ture will be devoted to a school of instruc- tion, where novices may receive instruc- tions from an expert teacher. The pro- prietor will expend $15,000 in fitting up the hall. The new club will be unique in this country, there beirg but one public billiard parlor for women in the world—in Vienna, Austria. oo____ “Want” ads. in The Star pay because they bring answers. WIELDS A SCEPTER The Speaker of the House is Really an Imperator. OW HE CAME 10 HAVE SUCH POWER AProcess That Began in the Fifty- First Congress. JERRY SIMPSON’S REVOLT Written for The Evening Star. Imperator {s a new force in political scl- ence. Imperator ts Speaker Reed, but Im- perator by the will of the House. The rules of the House make nim Imperator. The Imperator process began in the Fifty-first Congress. Jefferson's Manual had proved a failure. It had left the lower house of Congress at the mercy of the individual filibuster. No business could be done when he objected. This unique personage had not appeared when Jefferson framed his man- ual. How the author of the Declaration of Independence would have acted if he had foreseen the advent of this remarkable Product of an intellectual age is problemat- ical, Speaker Reed acted as if by intuition. He made an improvement upon the manual, and the Imperator appeared. New and im- proved rules were necessary to sustain him. ‘The Speaker originated them in the Fifty- first Congress. He submitted them for the consideration of the House, and by a strong party majority the House adopted them. When the Fifty-second Congress assem- bled, the democratic majority recognized the revolution that had been made in legis- lation, That Congress made Speaker Crisp Imperator. He had fully as much power as has Speaker Reed in the present Congress, und he used this power whenever ne saw fit. It orlgirated in the committee on rules, which he appointed and dominated. On tnore than one occasion he asserted his authority. The Yemocratic caucus which vonsidered the rules sanctioned them, with the expressed stipulation that when a ma- jurity of the dominant party in the House Signed a request asking for a special order from the committee on rules providing for the consideration of any measure, the Speaker should sanction it. On one or more occasions such special orders were sought and refused, The Speaker was paramount. No man was more firm in laying out a line of action and retaining it against all odds, either inside or outside of his party, than Speak- €r Crisp. He may possibly have been more suave and complaisant than Speaker Reed, but he was fully as firm and obdu- rate. He was Imperator. No New Role. Party demands make Speakers in late years Imperators. Speaker Reed is play- ing no new rele. He assumed it in the Fifty-first Congress with the sanction of those who made him Speaker. He resumed it in the Fitty-fourth Congress, and was enthusiastically sustained by his party in the House. .At times there were slight in- dications of dissent and revolt, so slight as to be almost ridiculous. One was head- ed by Joseph H. Walker, now known a8 the bold mutineer of the Quinsigamond. No flery and uniamed steed ever reared more viciously and kicked more versistent- ly. He made a second plunge in the late caucus for the selection of Speaker in the Fifty-fifth Congress, and was seconded by & cantankerous colt from Buffalo, whose flery nostrils and bucking proclivities ex- cited universal admiration. It was a mere flurry and it all amounted to nothing. The Imperator appeared, and was hailed with acelamations of delight, like a Napoleon returning from an Austerlitz. And he had returned from an Austerlitz, His antagonists, who had indignantly and unanimously refused to give him the-cus- tomary vote of thanks in the closing hours of the Fifty-first Congress, ‘had enthusi- astically and unanimously given him a vote of thanks in the expiring minutes of the Fifty-fourth Congress. ‘Yet his attitude and rulings had been practically the same. The indignation of the opposite party had keen especially aroused in the Fifty-First Congress because elght democrats had been unseated -and republicans put in their places; yet in the Fifty-fourth Congress so many democrats were thrown out that it required three committees on elections to do the work. The Speaker had not changed, but party feeling had been tempered. The fact that Speaker Crisp had followed the pathway blazed by Speaker Reed had sof- tened the feeling toward the present Speak- er. The Imperator idea had been recog- nized, and its strength solidified. Loyally Supported. As the party leader in an opposition House, Speaker Reed was Imperator when in his blunt way he waved his hand over the republican side of the chamber, and, in deep, significant tones, said: “All u, Every republican responded with military precision. Rarely did he encounter opposi- tion in his own ranks. He was usually en- thusiastically supported. The opposition presented a marked contrast. The only man who could preserve any semblance of authority over it was Charles F. Crisp. His place was not easily to be filled. Thomas B. Reed filled Crisp's place in the committee on rules by appointing Jos. . Bailey of Texas. Even in this he show- ed his usual sagacity. The democratic caucus apparently ratified the selection by making Mr. Bailey its candidate for Speak- er. Thereupon Mr. Reed placed the Texan at the head of the minority on the ways and means committee. He did more than this. He selected that gallant young cava- Her of Virginia® Claude A. Swanson, as Mr. Batley’s colleague on the ways ‘and means, and supplemented it by putting at his side a young Louisianian, sans peur et sans reproche, Samuel M. Robertson of |. Baton Rouge. These selections were significant. The three new members of the ways and means were taken from the south, leaving the northern democracy totally unrepresented on the committee. Speaker Reed did not even do as well by the northern democracy as he did in the Fifty-first Congress, for while allowing them four members of the committee at that time he made Governor Flower of New York one of the four. Mr. Crisp’s Course. His action in this Congress etands in strong contrast to the course taken by Speaker Crisp in the Fifty-second and Fifty-third Congresses. Mr. Springer of Frem Lite. THE BICYCLERS. Tei 1 Hilincis was made chairman of the ways and means in tpe Fiftty-second Congress, and had as jeagues Messrs. Whiting of Mic! Shively of Indiana, Cockran of New % Stevens of Massachusetts and Bryan of ‘Nebraska. The only south- ern oe Aa :- Messrs. McMillin of nnessee, Turncf of Georgia, Wilson of West “iemyp Montgomery of Ken- tucky. In tHe Fifty-third Congress Mr. Crisp made a southern democrat, Mr. Wil- son of West Virginia, chairman of the com- mittee. The ‘horthern democrats were rep- resented by Messrs. Whiting of Michigan, Cockran of ew York, Stevens of Massa- chusetts, ‘an of Nebraska and Bynum of Indiana. ir. Wilson’s southern col- leagues were} McMillin of Tennessee, Tur- ner of Georaja, Montgomery of Kentucky, Breckinridge ‘of Arkansas and Tarsney of Missourl + The minority’, of the committee as it stands today .by tlfe grace of the Speaker. ts Batley of Texas, McMillin cf Tennessee, Wheeler of Alabama, McLaurin of South Caroiina, Robertson of Louisiana and Swanson of Virginia. Southern gen- tlemen are chivalric, and usually have a grateful appreciation of courtesies offered to them by an opponent. The Younger Element. Swenson and Robertson, the new mem- bers of the committee appointed by the Speaker in this Congress, had been active supporters of Mr. Bailey in the democratic caucus. Mr. Bailey’s supporters as candi- date for Speaker were mainly from the younger element ‘of the democracy, and that element alone received recognition from the Speaker in the appointment of the new members of the ways and means. In making him the leader of the minority on the committee, the veteran, Benton Mc- Millin. was sent to the rear, after twenty years’ service in the House. This was pos- sibly due to Mr. Reed’s recognition of the fact that the democrats had selected Mr. Batley as their leader upon the floor by rominating him for Speaker. Whether or not the Imeprator idea is to prevail in the minority is a question of scme interest. ‘The ardent supporters of the handsome young Texan in caucus are as loyal on the floor to him as were the re- publicans to Thomas B. Reed in former Congressess. They are following Bailey's lead as if it were a bounden duty to do so. The question might not have arisen had it not been for the action of Mr. Jerry Simp- son on the floor of the House on April 7. Up to that time both republicans and dem- cerats had practically recognized the Im- Perator by making ne opposition to the legislative program of those dominating the House. Mr. Reed had not appointed the committees of the Hause. No business could be done unless committees were ap- pointed, The House was meeting twice a week, formally adjourning as soon «s the journal was real. it was evident that the leaders meant to take no action on any measure aside from the tariff bill. Jerry Simpson raised the standard of revolt un- der a question of the highest privilege. A question of the highest privilege affects the rights of the House, and the Speaker could not avoid recognizing nim. A Politic Move. As Jerry’s attitude was developed, Gov- ernor Dingley, General Steele of Indiana and others began to protest. It was clearly not a question of personal privilege. Speak- er Reed waived them aside and gave Jerry full swing. It was a peculiar and politic move, for it gave Mr. Reed the opportunity of explaining his action as Speaker, which had given rise to newspaper comment. The explanation was: direct and adroit, but hardly to the point. It did not completely unveil the attitude of the Speaker. He did not say that; he would appoint the com- mittees before the:tariff bill was signed and the regular session begun, nor did he say that he would not appoint them. Governor Dingley afterward made the usual motion to adjourn. This was carried, all the re- publicans and many democrats voting for it. The standard of revoli thus raised in the Populist camp spread to the democratic ranks. A caycus was called and a heated discussion ensued. The leader from Texas made an explicit statement of his position and intentions. It was that he would. make ho opposition to the present republiean pro- gram. If their leaders meant to confine business to the tariff bill, he would int=1 pose no objection. ‘Then there was 4 mutiny in the dem cratic camp. ‘It has shown {ts head in t House, but up to the present writing wit out avail. Mr. Bailey and his stppofters yote to adjourn for three days dy oftén ¢ Governor Dingtey ‘thakes’ the motion. (Th pepulists and a 'féw democrats, under’ the leadership of Mr, De ‘Armond of Missouri, vote against it. They did not at first de- velop enough strength to order the yeas and nays. Ata later session, under cover of a Pacific railroad resolution offered by Richard P. Bland, they forced their oppo- nents from cover, Mr. Bailey voting with them against adjournment. But the fight is ea on, and no one can tell how it wiil end. : It is a revolt against the Imperator idea. Whether it will gather strength and bi come formidable, time alone can disclos AMOS J. CUMMINGS. ee HIS MAIDEN VOTE. It Was an Important Occasiun, but He Did Not Grasp It Triumphantly. From the Chicago News. It was his maiden vote, and he felt that the event was one of sufficient importance to warrant mention in the columns of the daily press. Fer weeks beforehand he studied the merits of the several candi- dates, and decided upon his choice a dozen times, and as often changed his mind. It did seem a pity that all had so many good traits, and yet no one possessed them alone. In addition to reading all the daily pa- pers and campaign literature that came his way, the young man attended political meetings and shouted until he developed some throat trouble. He marched in pro- cessions for each and every candidate, and even rode in a band wagon—in fact, he left nothing undone to learn which man was the best to cast that all-important vote for. ‘The day before election he felt as mixed up as ever, and finally appealed to his father election morning. “I say, dad,” he began, as his father was leaving the breakfast table, “who ought I to vote for?” “Vote the ticket your convictions tell you is the best,” his father replied, catch- ing up his hat and starting for the door. “But, dad, tell me. I’m dead sure I can’t tell which man’s the best. They all ciaim to be the whole thing, and they can’t all be O. K.” His father paused with his hand‘on the doorknob as he said angrily: “When a kid gets old enough to vote he ought to have enough sense to know which man he wants to cast his ballot for. A mistake was made in your case. You oughtn’t to be of age until you're thirty,” and he slammed the door angrily. The young man’s mother scolded him for making his father angry; his sister said that it was just like a boy anyway, while his maiden aunt with advanced no- tions cried indignantly, pointing her skinny forefinger at him:, “And to think @ dummy like thdt can vote and I am denjed the privilege.” By this time, the young man discovered that he would regelve no assistance from his home le,,.80 he sauntered toward the polling place .gnd hung about for over an hour before he ventured in. To his sur- prise he was-allowed to pass unchallenged, and as he took up 4 pencil and a ticket he felt that at last he was one of the great American nation. . ‘When he finally emerged his face was flushed, but wore @ triumphant expression and all day long he moved like one who had discharged a serious duty. = ‘Well, did you get that vote cast?” ‘ou bet I did,” was the somewhat in- articulate answer, the-young man’s mouth being full. 1s “Who did you‘vote for?” his father ed, looking interested. re- you?” his father repeated, that I marked them all” ; A Speaking Watch. 1897-24 PAGES. AT AN APRIL PICNIC Stylish Gowns to Be Seen at Tivoli or Frascati. WHEN THE ITALIAN SUN IS WARM Hints for Outdoor Spring Wear. Dresses for NEW AND DAINTY FABRICS sae ee Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. ROME, April 22, 1897. HEREVER ENG- PV issnwomen go the tea- basket goes with them, and so it fol- lows that that na- tional embiem is prominent as a land- scape feature at Ti- voli and Frascati and other spots in the en- virons of Rome these warm _ afternoons when the ground is covered with spring flowers and the sreen or the trees is tinged with the new sold of the sun. A basket with a coat of arms on its cover had a place of honor two or three days ago at Hadrian's villa in the middle of a circle of grass shaded by the huge piles of ruins that prove one of the old Roman emperors to have had a most sumptuous taste in his choice of a country home. The circumference of the circle was formed by a Lady Somebody and four Honorable Misses. One Honorable Miss was Lady Somebody's -friend, the other three were her young daughters; pret- ty, curly-headed blondes, rather louder than American girls of the same age would be, because, as is well known, that which is a rude self assertiveness ina young person of any other nationality is nothing but sa- voir faire in an English girl serenely con- scious of birth and breeding. ly Somebody was pouring tea and talking scrappily of dress and fashion. Her own costume was a graceful one of red and white foulard made in a long open robe over an undergown of sunpteated red lawn. The foulard was turned o¥ upon the shoulders in a round cape of the lawn, made of rows of very narrow puffs anid edged with a full, narrow roffle. ‘Phe ruifle was carried down the fronts to the ground. The lawn robe was gathered to a square yoke at the neck and was confined at the waist, as also was the foulard, under a broad sash of red satin ribbon. “The lawn sleeves were made to wrinkle like Bern- hardt gloves upon the arms, and the little sailor hat was of red canvas, trimmed with tulle and wings. A Matter of Dates. “I like this parasol,” she said, twirling one of heavy while lace run with red rib- ;bons. “Sir Frederick, Sir George's cousin, you know, sent me the stick from India; it’s ivory. That was in 1885, when Nina here was in a perambuiator.” “Nina here,” who wasn't quite old enough to care to be made younger for her mam- ina’s benefit, interposed noisily: “Why, mamma, I was seven!” and the youngest of the Honorable Misses, who looked fifteen or sixteen, seconded her sister with, “Why, mamma, even I wasn’t in a perambulator in 1885!" The Honorable Miss who was not of kin interposed hastily, “Is Sir Frederick ap- preciative?” and Nina subsided, shaking her bushy red curls indignantly. Nina, who claimed to be nineteen, had a milk white skin and large light blue eyes under a wide Leghorn “flat” trimmed with rose garlands. She was rather an effective girl in her pretty frock of blue grass lawn of open lace effect over shot pale blue and green glace. ‘The overskirt of lawn was made separate from the under, which was finished with silk frills. Down the seams of the outside dress ran a thread of deli- cate embroidery in gold. Over a full bodice of cream lace came a zouave of the trensperent lawn, with glace lining and edged with embroidery. The sleeves were more richly braided with gold, as was the shot blue and green silk parasol. Lady Somebody passed the bread and butter hastily to her turbulent daughters and answered gratefully, “Yes, up to a certain point. He is intelligent to that degree you have to tolerate in a man.” “But I don’t tolerate it.” “Then I fear you must limit your friend- ship to very few.” 4] joy echo-in- Intellectual, but Stylish. . “I expect a man to be as well informed as a woman! Does he understand Brown- ing or can he talk nothing but dogs and horses?” The Honorable Miss spoke con- temptuously. This critically intellectual British female had paused long enough in her own Browning researches to be ex- tremely well clothed, in the severe tailor style. She was tall and inclined to be thin, though not angular. Her hair was light brown and very heavy, so that, though she put it back plainly, the mass of it could not avoid being becoming. She was thirty or thereabouts and had the brilliant color of a perfectly healthy woman. Her dress was of a new material that is called on this side of the Atlantic “grilled cloth,” and may be described as a thin, light wool, thickly corded. Lichen green was the color with the cording in red, a combina- tion so perfectly adapted to her own color- ing that it was hard to avold suspecting her of studying it out purposely. The skirt was very scant and straight, and very long, even exaggerating her tall figure. The bodice was a novel kind of Norfolk, leats opening enough at the neck to show Shirt front and cravat tie. The sleeves were almost of the coat shape of ten years ago. The bodice fitted the figure closely and had small, smart-looking revers. With a stiff green straw hat rolled up at the sides che looked severely. handsome end in her best pose.- - 4 rheresto get an awfully Sane cae meen a ngest sirl,- questioner iPher Se ae aee ofthe debasement of was writ over her fair and large. She had brown eyes and brown hair, and a “friend’ (she had told me this a day or two before) had urged her te learn as many languages abroad as possible. So she had come out to Tivol! not to drink afternoon tea and enjoy the sunshine, but to study French verbs out of a grammar instead of listening while live people talked Italian. By the tims she gets to Paris I suppose she will have abandoned her French and be read- ing a manual of Itallan conversation. Her dress was better than her linguistic meth- ods. She wore a dainty blouse made of tucks of pale yellow crepe de chine alter- nating with insertions of lace hemmed with the crepe. At the neck and down one side were ribbons of a pretty leaf green. There are extraordinary quantities of tucks in this year’s fashions. This Boston girl's skirt had the fullness at the top adjusted by up and down tucks all the way around. The material was a leaf green cashmere and it was trimmed with circles of tucks at the bottom. Her hat was a big one trim- med with green roses, a new fad and a queer one. She welcomed the pug in spite of her verbs or perhaps because of them, and the middle-sized Honorable Miss came after him. So there arose international amenities. ‘There are reasons, not uncon- nected with accent, why the English get on with Bostonians, Blue and White Foulard. ‘The middle-sized Honorable Miss looked eighteen. She had yellow-brown hair and the palest possible tone of pink in her cheeks and the tips of her fingers. She was quieter than her sisters, except under provocation. She leaned against the wall behind the Boston girl, and the sun streamed down upcn her smart blue and white foulard dress with its red touches. The bodice was formed of four widths, simulating a bolero, each plece turned slightly back and lined with blue. The blouse was of white mousseline de sole, laid in tucks alternating with embroidery, and a short mantle in blue and black Ro- man silk, lined with red, fell back from her shoulders. Her skirt was of blue and white foulard, tucked at the bottom, and her hat large, high-crowned and trimmed with rather stiff blue flowers. “Tea is slops,” she began, “and I am tired of ruins and things. There are no men at ail at our hotel, and all there are are so old. Do you care for Browning? Don’t you wish there was one good tennis court in all Italy?” The Boston girl opened her mouth to answer, but at the instant there came striding up over the slope the maligned Sir Frederick, who was “appre- cidtive” to a certain point only. He had been out with the Roman hunt, which had done a fox or two to death in the cam- paign, and was still in riding dress, but ready to escort his female relatives back to Rome. Everybody jumped up to meet him, and in a minute the English contin- gent was on its way to the carriages, the critic of Sir Frederick unscrupulously mo- nopolizing Sir Frederick’s attention. The Boston girl and I were left with the ruins and the relics of th tea to reflect that a man is a man, even though ignorant of Browning. ELLEN OSBORN. —— ee When the House is Cleaned. From the Chicago Record. ae] the nok of a draws near, ‘And gentle housewives grow While guilty husbands quake with fear” And fly the home with haste excessive. Again the carpets have come up ned sharp tacks for all to step a. Agaln we smell the varnish cup ‘And fear the calciminer's weapon, At 5 a.m. we rise these days ‘ade eh for food mi chunks of plaster, stagger through a stuming maze Of furniture mixed with disaster. We see our cherished volumes Leaped pon the toor in a fashion, then we know that life is steeped In boundless perfidy and passion. The hat we bought but yesterday Is crushed beyond all recognition. ‘The hired girl has gone, to stay, Because of our perturbed condition, And this, in our enlightened sta’ We style “advanced civilization,” And flock to Iyceums to prate Of the “delights of education! —+e- The New Woman Very Old. Andrew Lang in the North American Review. When our new woman is not proposing to herself and her readers a reversion to the ancient system of polyandry (en which consult McLennan, Westermarck, Morgan, and Bachofen), she is apt to disdain and shrink from the atrocious and oppressive male sex. She is not so new but that Mrs. Mary Astell was before her, in 1709. Mrs. Mary “proposed a sort of female college, in which ladies nauseating the parade of the world might find a happy retirement.” Queen Anne meant to endow this establish- ment, but Bishop Burnet persuaded her that it savored of popery. Sir Walter Scott (who had nothing new about him) speaks of Mrs. Mary as a Precieuse, who is anx- ious to confound the boundaries which na- ture has fixed for the employments and studies of the two sexes. Swift laughed at Mrs. Mary in the Tatler (No. 32). But the new woman who spurns the degrading coarseness of matrimony has closer pat- terns of Moliere’s Cathos and Madelon (‘Less Precieuses Ridicules,” 1659). These ladies express themselves with such virtu- ous freedom that I could not quote them unless I were a new lady novelist, writing in a new Keyhole series. The student is, therefore, blushingly referred to the inal drama by the unprincipled Poquelin. For Moliere, too, had nothing new abcut him; he laughed at these original delica- cies of sentiment. The new young lady in society is re- marked for the generous breadth of her language apd the large frolic of her wit. But, alas! even this is not so very new. In the correspondence of Lady Suffolk (1714- 1760), we find the maids of honor, led by the oldest and most prudish, Mi Mead- ows, larking about on a winter. night, out- side Kensington palace, knocking on the panes and throwing open the windows of the inmates. Nothing can be more in the modern taste. I read in a periodical de- voted to the intellectual needs of women, The Lady’s Realm, that the most popular and most justly popular lady in Engiand excels in the confection of “apple-ple beds.” I don’t believe It, of course, but this news is of the kind that women love. HOUSEHOLD HINTS New potatces and new peas are dishes that all delight in just now, but many a housewife finds to her sorrow that on warm nights these delicious vegetables will not keep till morning even, if they have been cooked in milk. There is something in the atmosphere that sours the not always gocd milk in a short time, naturally aided by the little flour that goes to thicken the gravy. There ts a way to obviate this. Of course, neither peas nor potatoes should be cooked to a mush, and even ff cut in dice the potatoes should retain their shape. Just as soon as the meal is over turn the Peas and potatoes into a fine colander, and peur a lot of boiling water over them. This will wash away all the thickened milk, ard yeu can safely set the vegetables in a cool place, to use for the next meal, or for Soup or salad. If you want to serve in milk again, treat them as though they were just cooked ready for the gravy, and Season them again. BS Here is a nice way, though just a little troublesome, perhaps, to serve oranges. Make a rich, thick syrup of sugar and wa- ter in which you have boiled orange peel Ul it fs tender. Put the peel aside to w: when dried for seasoning other things. Select large, rather tart oranges, peel and divide them into single sections without breaking the skin. Drop a dozen or so of these sections into the boiling syrup at @ time, leave a few minutes, and then lay on a sieve to drain over a deep dish. Treat all the sections this way, and by the time you have finished the lot the first batch will be ready to dip again. It will take about half a dozen dips all around to do the business. When cold serve piled up in sttle glass dishes, “Etiquette,” the word that brings us so much care and worry, has a curious origin, considering the use to which it is put now. In French it means simply a label! So those to whom the term ts applied as be- ing its finished master are simply labcied fit to enter polite society. Its origin in the sense that it is used now dates back to Louis XIV. He had employed a doughty Scotch gardener to lay out the grounds at Versailles. The courtiers would wander ail over his smoothly made lawns, and It wor- ried him till he complained to the king. He told the gardener to place sticks with labels on them directing the offenders to walk only on the paths indicated between them. “Walk between the efiquettss” was the word that went round, and it is easy to seo how the meaning has broadened. Flaxseed lemonade is considered excellent for a cold. To a pint of water use three teaspoonfuls of flaxseed. Squeeze in the juice of two lemons, being careful not to let a single seed drop in. Simmer the mess for full ten minutes, then add sugar to taste, boil up once, then strain and sct away to cool. A good mouthful at a time is sufticlent to stop coughing, and it should not be taken over once an hour. It is a iax- ative. If you want to keep the cook in a good humor, or if you want to save your own temper if you are your own cook, keep your knives sharpened. It will vex the temper of @ saint to have to work about the kitchen with a dull knife. You can soon learn to sharpen them yourself if you try. It is very ttle trouble and cheaper. A small, fine whetstone should be one of the con- comitants of every kitchen. If you are putting down your carpets af- ter spring house cleaning,in the dark rooms, where the sunlight never gets a fair chance and where you are troubled with moths in the carpets, sprinkle tobacco over the top of the paper, which, of course, you put next the floor. It is said that this is an excellent preveative of moths in the carpet. Of course, the darkest corners should have the thickest sprinkle of the weed. Remember this! In putting away woolen clothes and furs, that there are not enough moth balls made to kill moth eggs, unless you set fire to the whole lot. What you must be careful to know is that all the eggs are beaten out of the garments, then you can safely put the things away with all the foul smelling chemicals you like, for the moths will not bother the chest or trunk. If the moths are In the things when put away, you may look to find them in lace work when you take them out in the fall. A lady who does most exquisite embroi- dery work says that when you button hola scallops in your embroidery, hold the con- cave edge toward you. Do not knot your thread, to trouble you and make your work look rough, but run two or three fine stitches as you start in. So simple a thing as a potato is insulted by haif the cooks in christendom. When potatoes are to be boiled, pure and simple, only a vandal will peel them before cooking. Potatoes to boll should be of uniform, medium size, so that one will be all that one person wants to eat, and not any more than a healthy appetite will demand. Cut- ting them injures the flavor for boiling. They should be smooth and plump, and should be scrubbed with a clean sea-grass brush that is used for no other purpose. They should soak for half an hour in cold water before being put in boiling water, and should not cease a good steady boil in a covered vessel until they are ready to serve. Pour off the water, and set on the back part of the stove with the lid off to let them dry thoroughly, before serving, and then you will have a nice, mealy potato well worth the trouble you have taken. The same rules should be observed for bak- ing. The oven should be moderately hot, increasing to a good heat rapidly. When done, which you ascertain by testing with a fork, take in a napkin and break the skin on one side, to let the steam escape, Crop a lump of butter in the break, if you like, and return to the open oven for a momeat or two, till ready to serve. A woman said the other day that she was getting rusty for a lack of some nice man to air her graces upon! Said it before her young daughter, and her hard working tus. band, who every one knows is shamefully neglected by this beautiful wife, thoagh she esteems him highly and would wear mourn- ing weeds full two years if he were to die. It was @ thoughtless remark, but full of meaning. It expressed conclusively her idea that one’s own husband was not a fit subject for pretty compliments or tender nothings; that she did not think it ne>es- sary to entertain him, and that a stranger would command more courtesy from ber than the man who had honored her with an urtarnished name. Of course, she would have a fit if you were to suggest this to her in so many words, for our thoughts are ugly things to face so! but rhe said it In substance. Fine philosophy that for a girl of tender years to imbibe, but is this one daughter the only one contaminated by such doctrines? It is a tiny thing, but seeds like that sown in girlish hearts some- times grow to ugly weeds. ——— A Natural Loss. From tho Memphis Scimitar. “Mr. Henpeck,” said the doctor, after ex- amination, “I fear your wife’s mind is one.” = “That doesn’t surprise me,” said the man, “She has been giving me a piece of it every day for ten years.” ° ————_-e-______ It matters little what ft is that you want whether a situation or a servant—a “wart” ad. in The Star will reach tho person who can fill your need. IT LOOKED Ficm Life. THAT WAY.

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