Evening Star Newspaper, April 17, 1897, Page 21

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 17, 1897-28 PAGES. IN ROMAN SOCIETY Spring Costumes to Be Seen in the Eternal City. APTERNOONS ON THE PINCIAN HILL —_>__—_ Description of a Gown Made for a German Duchess. AT THE LADIES’ 2S Se CLUB Jyccial Correspondence of The Evening Star. ROME, April 5, 1897. T APPEARS THAT a great many people have been married lately, for at table @hote last evening there was a man who let his soup get cold while he held his wife's hand un- der the table; and at different times in the past week I have no- ticed a frequency and intensity of civ- ility to women not to be accounted for except on the theory of very recent matrimony. The Roman flower-sellers liké brides for | business reasons, and in the Piazza de Spagna, where there are more violets and purple anemones and golden narcis@ than a | was novel and attractive. Zouave, nd white lace, with trimmings of violets nd foliage. Of Silver-Colored Clot The ydunger daughter had many callers, men from other carriages, who found many things to say when they reached her side. She wore an extremely dainty dress of fine silver-colored cloth. The only ornament upon the skirt was a heavy gold cord that ran down the right side, ending in an ara- besque above the hem. The vodice was a short zouave cut out in battlements, edged about with two rows of gold cord and em- broidered with arabesques in the corners. Upon the left side a cascade_of lace, fell ever the zouave and relieved its clearly defired outlines. The zouay2 opened upon a bloure of pale yellow mousseline dé sole, of the tint of an italian primrose. This was gathered at the waist under a broad belt of gold-colored satin ribbon. The sleeves were plain and close fitting, with a trifle of ful- ness at the shoulders. There was a ribbon. neckband, with a lace collarette, and a broad hat of yellow straw trimmed. with lace, yellow ribbon and white flowers. The other daughter was a stately girl of fine erect figure dressed in pink shot with brown. Her zouave jacket was long enough to reach the waist, where it ended in long peints, and fitted as trimly as a taflor-made vest. Tne material was a corded silk, and it was cut with a Medici collar and with double revers, turning back frcm the front, and then turning again upon themselves so as to meet in a curve down over the bosom in long collar tabs, apparently. The effect collar and tabs were bordered with a scroll em- troidery in golj and green silks, running off at places in wavy meanders. A vest of pale green mousseline showed below the zouave and was fastened at the waist by a narrow belt of dark green ribbon. There was a plain silk skirt in pink and brown and a little brown straw hat covered with roses. a At a Roman Reception. The Ladies’ Club of the Anglo-Amerfcan colony is giving some very pleasant enter- tainments. At a recent reception a young girl who was chaperoned hy Mrs. Maude Howe Eliot, a daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward in an equal space anywhere else in the Howe, wore a very pretty and novel gown SPRING DRESSES IN ROME. world, they were besieging a handsome couple an hour or two cgo. He was trying to choose a bouquet to go with her gown and eight or ten round-faced Roman girls in the dress of the contadina and balancing baskets of tulips and hyacinths on their heads were helping or hindering him. She wore a dress of pale mauve liberty silk. ‘The skirt of it was short enough to walk in. It was round at the bottom and fell evenly from the waist in fine sun pleatings. ‘The bodice was made with a square yoke at the neck, edged with a delicate vine embroidery ‘in gold ard purple. Below the yoke came seven or eight horizontal rows of puffings, disappearing at the waist ‘un- der a broad pointed belt of white silk with embroidery in mauve and gold. The sleeves were close-fitting frcm the shoulders, and were gathered into little wrinkling puffs ail the way down, with perpendicular cords | of white to preserve their shapeliness. A | high white silk neckband corresponded with the white ribbons on the straw hat trimmed with violets. Roman anemones | were his first choice, but the purple of | them was too deep for the pretty pink and white complexion, and in the end the pur- chase was a big bunch of yellow daffodils. Society Out of Doors. Up on the Pincio an hour or two before sunset, when the band is playing its liveli- est and Roman society is on exhibition, paying and receiving visits from carriage to carriage along the beautiful terraces of the wleasure gardens laid out under Napo- leon, is the place to study Roman life and Reman manners. The proud old families, with names that have filled men’s mouths for centuries, may cut down their estab- lishments and rent all but a few bare rooms of their palaces, but they never ive up their horses or the afternoon drive through the Corso and up the Pincian hill. The younger women, with their olive skin, delicate features and large dark eyes, are | apt to be very good to look at, and their dress with its lavish use of lace and flow- ers is often more graceful than that of Frenchwomen, if not always so refined. In one carriage today I noticed a hand- some woman of middle age, with two young gals, evidently her daughters. All "three carried enormous bouquets of violets and syriled as if they found it good to be alive. © matron of the party wore quite heavy green silk with two bands of watered black satin encircling the skirt for trimming. ‘These bands were edged on both sides with jet ornaments. The bodice of the costume was of very rich brocade in silver upon a | green ground, the design arabesque and flowers fantastically intermingled. The waist was confined by a black satin belt, below which appeared the short skirts of the bodice with a black jet-embroidered edeing. The neckband.of black satin was prolonged downward in a collar whose three long curving points came over the bosom. Above the neckband was a collar- ette of black and while lace. The éleeves were black and the bonnet was of black of pale primrose yeilow silk. The skirt was round at the bottom and untrimmed, except for a circle of lace let into it about half way from waist to ground. The half- low bodice was cut with a waistcoat edged with a mere thread of gold embrcidery, which also defined the seams. The skirts of the waistcoat set out about the hips in folds that accentuated the slenderness of a figure able to carry them becomingly. Triangular revers, more heavily embroid- ered, turned back from a vest front of mauve silk, finished at the top with a band of mauve velvet, above which little tri- angles of lace covered the shoulders. The vest front was gold-embroidered, as was the pointed beit of mauve velvet. The handkerchiefs of silk that finished the tight sleeves upon the shoulders were fast- ened with broad gold clasps. Of evening costumes the prettiest I have seen is one recently prepared for a court ball. and to be worn by a young German duchess, who stands high in the favor of Queen Margherita. The material is a pale blue gauze, threaded with silver and gold. This is laid in fine sun pleatings and draped in a simple princess robe ever blue satin. The bodice is low and square cut, with bunches of blue feathers, buried in costly laces upon the shoulders. The belt is a girdle of gold, set with pearls and to- paz. There are no sleeves, The train is of heavy blue satin, brocaded with gold and edged with cascades of lace worth a for- tune. The lace is caught here and there with ostrich plumes. Tennis Gowns. There is a good deal of tennis in pro- gress. The best player among the women is Mme. Vagliano, who has taken a num- ber of prizes at Nice this spring. At an open tournament which has brought out all the tennis world this week green and yellowish brown predominated in the wo- men’s costumes. Bright parasols in the gay Romen colors and flat hats covered with flowers lent gayety to the scene. One of the prettiest dresses seen was worn by Miss Brooksmith, the Nice champion, who did not play heré, but rested on her lau- rels. Her dress was of the yellowish green tint of the willow catkins. It was of light silk, figured sparsely wita pink and brown, and was cut with plain skirt and blouse. Over the blouse came a large, flat collar of pale brown silk, cut in points that lay over the shoulders. In front one long point reached to the waist line, hiding itself under a folded belt of dark brown | silk. This collar ran up into a throat band, with collarette of the same material above, and was edged with a darker brown rib- bon. buttoned dewn in spots with rows of mother-of-pearl buttons. A red parasol and a broad brown hat trimmed with leaves completed an outfit that was as pretty as striking. ELLEN OSBORN. paises eer) Not Quite So Far. From the Detroit Journal. “We drifted apart.” “Did Miss’ Heavyweight come between you?” “What! that great, fat thing? Oh, no; we didn’t drift so far apart as that.” SURE From Fl.egende Blatter. SIGN. Millionaire's Wife—“Remarkable, that t Millfonaire—“He must have immense 4 ‘he count shows attention to our eldest.” + ‘ART AND ARTISTS In the two big exhibitions now in prog- ress In New York, Washington is credit- ably represented, especially in that of the Society of American Artists. Its exhibit this spring 1s generally conceded to be the best that it has held for ygars, and it entirely eclipses the Academy. It has al- ‘ways been more pi essive than the Acgg- emy, sometimes carrying this tendency to excess in admitting the most extreme im- pressionism, but this year the influence of a irore conservative jury has been felt,and the inipressionistic work shown is of the sober, serious kind, which is having a healthy ef- fect upon the cutdoor painting of the pres- ent day. George Willoughby Maynard, Whose picture, entitled “Sport,” captured the Shaw prize, was born in this city, and his work has, therefore, an especial inter- est to Washingtonians. His prize picture 1s a graceful figure composition, showing several mermaids dashing through the waves in a playful spirit, and he exhibits also @ personification of Morn, a floating figure, clad in light diaphanous draperies. The coloring is pleasing in both canvases, though a trifle disappointing in view of the superb color studies that the artist has sometimes exhibited. Miss Elizabeth Curtis has sent three pictures to the so- “In October,” “Connecticut Hills’ “Phlox and Verbenas,” and all are well hung. The last mentioned, which Is a@ garden scene, affords an excellent op- portunity for Miss Curtis’ usual daring in color. Mrs. Gotthold exhibits two paint- ings, a large picture, entitled “Mother and Child,” and a study, called “Candlelight,” both executed in a low key and painted al- most entirely in a scale of greens. She is also represented at the exhibition of the Academy, her contribution being a profile head, entitled “Elena.” “Work and Leis- ure,” the excellent figure study, by Howard Helmick, which is included in the exhibit of the Academy, was shown here at Fisch- er’s several weeks ago, and therefore needs no description. Migs May V. Wolf has an attractive study of carnations in the Acad- emy. In the same exhibition ts the portrait of Mrs. Wm. E. Curtis, of this city, paint- ed by Cecilia Beaux, and exhibited for a time in the Corcoran Gallery. * * Ok Miss Mathilde Mueden, who has been studying in Paris for the past two years, makes her debut in the New Salon this spring. She has contributed a likeness of Mr. Morse, the American consul general at Paris, a portrait which in spite of its small size has already excited remark. Several of the great French painters who saw it before it was hung spoke very highly of it, and Miss Mueden was told that her canvas was very far from appearing like student work. She has had a studio of her own during the winter, but has spent part of her time in the Julien School, and has had special criticism from Laurens and Con- stant. * * Ok z The exhibit of work by the students of the American Academy in Rome closes to- day at the Cosmos Club. The exhibition is largely architectural, and is, of course, especially interesting to those interested in that line of work, but there is much of a distinctly artistic character that appeals to those with no technical knowledge wiat- ever. The academy is composed of the students holding the different traveling scholarships, and, as the name implies, the beneficiaries are expected to spend a por- tion of their time in travel, and in the study of the grand architectural ruins of Greece, Italy and all parts of Europe. The quick sketches that have been made on these tours are especially interesting to the ordinary visitor. * * Miss Alma de Mier, who for two years filled the position of superintendent in the Art Students’ League here, paid a flying visit to the city several days ago. She has been in New York pursuing her studies in the Art League there, and has done some successful work in the field of illustration. In this line of work her forte has always been wash drawings, but she has now taken up pen and ink, with a view to greater versatility. ** The main topic of interest discussed at the meeting of the Society of Washing- ton Artists on Tuesday evening was the question of a permanent exhibition hall. It is proposed that the soclety rent a place suitable, both as to size and lighting, in which to hold all the large exhibitions. Unéer these circumstances they would charge admission, as is the custom in New York and many other cities. The hall would also be available for the “one man show” which are now held at the different art stores, and when not put to any other use it could be {filled with a loan collec- tion. It is thought that contributions from distinguished artists in all parts of the country could be secured, and the fhspir- ing influence of the best art would cer- tainly be a great advantage to the Wash- ington painters, and would have an edu- cational value to the general public. The committee appointed to look into the mat- ter and report consists of E. C. Messer, Parker Mann, Carl Gutherz, E. F. An- drews, Hobart Nichols, George Gibbs and Samuel Hodgkins. fs Most of the pictures which will go to the women’s exposition of the Carolinas were exhibited last week, though there are a few others that were sent in. Among these is Edward Siebert’s realistic East Glouces- ter study and Carl Weller’s water colors “Resting” and “In Summer Time.” Jules Dieudonne’s striking figure, entitled “En Passant,” is among the number, and he sends also a picture entitled “Grief.” All of the other canvases were included in the recent exhibition, Parker Mann send- ing cne of his delightful marsh scenes, and Harold L. Macdonald his pastel en- litled “The Daughters of an Eastern King.’ Hobart Nichols is represented by three of his landscapes, and Spencer Nich- ols sends an equal number. Frank Moss has contributed his study of a Puritan and his “Boat Builder of Clovelly,” and Geo. Gibbs sends his effective study called “In a Garret,” and one marine. Catherine Critcher’s portrait of Col. Mosby, and Lil- lian Cook's study of a Dutch peasant will both go to Charlotte. S. Jerome Uhl is represented by two canvases, an autumn wood interior and a moonlit marine. W. H. Chandlee sends his “Rainy Night, Madison Square,” and Wells M. Sawyer contributes two Florida sketches and his study of a corner of the old Calvert house at Riverdale. Among the others whose work will go to the exposition are Robert Cole- man Child, W. B. Chilton, Edgar Nye and Daniel Rose. It is expected that several other canvases will be added to the list by Monday. * ** A number of very fine specimens of Rook- wood pottery have just been received at Fischer’s and are now on exhibition. Rook- wood ts the only artistic ware made in this country that is distinctly original in every way. In its richness of color and beauty of design it equals the best wares of any country, and yet bears resemblance to none. The rich reddish brown glaze shading into golden yellow or olive green is present in almost all the specimens shown at Fisch- er’s, though there are a number of de- partures from this typical combination of colors. One of the charms about Rook- wood ware is that look as long as you may you will scarcely find two specimens alike. For next week an exhibition of miniatures by Mr. Keeling and a collection of pictures by Jane Bridgham Curtis and William Ful- ler Curtis are announced. * * * In the collection of pictures which were hung at Veerhoff’s during the latter part of the wees Thomas Moran shows himself to be a close student of ‘Turner. This is especially noticeable in his Venetian scenes and marine views, as he is here trespass- ing on Turner’s own ground, and the simi- larity of handling is the more apparent. Take for example his view of Venice from the Campo Santo. He haw there enveloped the scene in the golden haze peculiar to Turner's work, and has even caught from the master “hints of the proper crafts, tricks of the tool's true play.” It would, him merely as an imitator, as he is not lacking in original ‘Arizona, eee ei a Say Sa GE Saag REE SOU D CRU ROMS A aS UP GER EE Pn EE DECIISS [EDUCDET CORE ORE CES CEE BED OR (OD EE Sar al PED OUSE TERE To PENSE SE Poreatin ect ues aes temest (HOUSEHOLD HINTS] ly original, and the observer is impressed with the sense of, barren desolation. Of this picture Miss;Eyjth Thomas, who has composed descrivtlve vermis for all the canvases, a written: anne Smill silenSeve for cry of = "A ailing wildersces, but all decurstn “A Ruined Castle/sSunset,” is a powerful landscape, and ie full of the: poetic feeling found in most of ‘Thomas Moran's work. One of his finest marines is entitled “Melo- dies of the Sea.” 21: aly Mrs. Annie E. Hoste has recently com- pleted a portrait $f Mr. Gelson, which ts a Good likeness and_a swell-handied, plece of work. She has -dlso;finished a large tap- estry design, shomtngi several figures. play- ing upon musicaldnetruments. i UNIVERSITY NOTES ——.—___ Catholic University. Rev. Fathers Conaty and Garrigan, who spent the Easter holidays in New Eng- land, are expected to return Wednesday. The last lecture in the historical course given by Dr. Shahan at the Cathedral in New York city will be delivered tomorrow. On Tuesday afternoon the base ball nine will play the strong Lehigh College team which defeated Georgetown this week by a score of 3 to 2, and on Wednesday after- noon an exhibition game will. be played with the Senators at National Park. John G. Ewing, professor of economics at Notre Dame University, Indiana, visited the university this week. Rev. Dr. Allen, bishop-elect of Mobile, Ala., was also a visitor. Rev. Dr. Grannan spent the Easter holi- days in Pennsylvania. The University Club has about completed arrangements for a smoker to be held the last week of this month. The relay team, composed of Collins, Cashman, Kennealy and McBane, are run- ning daily, and Manager Duane is much pleased with the showing made. Howard University. Wednesday afternoon the Theological Literary and Debating Society installed the following officers: J. P. Washington, presi- dent; J. H. Hughes, vice president; J. W. Neil, secretary and treasurer; F. F. Lee, chaplain, and Hughes and Lee, sergeants- at-arms. The C. E. Society will meet tonight and discuss the regular C. E. topic, “Different Kinds of Death and the Conquest of Them.” At the late session of the mock congress the discussion of the bill providing for women’s suffrage was continued. It is expected, however, that a vote will be reached at the next meeting and that the bill will pass. The Agassiz Association will take an ex- cursion into the country Monday for the purpose of studying natural history. The class is divided into four sections—botany, chemistry, physics and mineralogy. Each section makes independent investigations and reports to the class, and a discussion and study of the report follows. Columbian University. The banquet of the junior law class will take place at the Riggs House Friday evening next. The Law School Debaiing Society has for discussion the question, “Resolved, That the government should have a permanent tariff commission” On the affirmative are B. R. Steuart, A. W, Shuck and A. V. Moulton, and on-the negative, A. G. Bent- ley, T. H. Haworth and G. W. Johannis. The final exarninations in the medical school will be hel on next Monday. The minor examinations were held last week. The law students are hard at work pre- paring for the final-examinations, which are to occur about the last of May. The catalogue of the university for 1897 98 will probably: be issued the cyuming week. { E. C. Campbell'bas been elected manager of the track team aad Frank L. Biscce captain. Quite a mumber of candidates are in training for the relay team, but the selections haye nat yet been made. Manager Sellheusen, of the base ball team, left Friday. morning for a southern trip, accompanied by the following: Stock- slager and Medford, catchers; Cummings, Beard and Farnham, pitchers; Green, first base; Hodge, secand hase; Beall, short- Dalzell, third base; Tindall, left field; Fugitt, center field, and Leach, right field. Games are scheduled for Fredericks- burg Friday, Richmond College Saturday, William end Mary College Monday, and Newport News Tuesday, the team return- ing home \ ednesday. Carroll Fugitt will manage the 1807 foot ball team, and Graham Nichols will act as field captain. The Enosinian Society at the last meet- ing discussed, “Resolved, That the Dingiey in its present form, should be adopt- ed.” Messrs. Hoover and Biscoe spoke on tke affirmative, and Beatty and Jones in the negative. Georgetown University. Rt. Rev. Robert Seton, rector of St. Jo- seph’s Church, Jersey City, will lecture the coming week on “Travels in Northern Africa.” i A valuable addition to the library has recently been received as a donation from a friend of the university. It 1s the Migne Edition of Greek and Roman latrology, and consists of one hundred and fifty large handsomely bound volumes. The intercollegiate debate between the debating societies of the Georgetown Law School and the Law School of the Univer- sity of New York will occur on Monday evening at Gonzaga Hall, on I street, and admission will be by card only. The ques- tion for debate is “Resolved, That bellig- grent rights should be granted the Cu- ans.’ New York Law School has the affirmative of the question, and will be represented by Messrs. O'Connell, Stern and Zimmerman, and Georgetown by Messrs. Power, Roach and Ryan. The New York Law School Society holds the record not only for the city of New York, but for the state, as being the strongest debaters in that state. Georgetown has made an unrivaled record in the public joint debates which have been held in former years, and it is expected that this will be one of the most interesting and scholarly contests that has ever taken place in Washington. Three judges, who are yet to be chosen, will decide the de- bate upon the merits of the arguments presented. The return debate will take place in New York city about the 15th of May. The debaters have been selected, but the question for debate has not yet been decided upon, The Morris Literary and Debating So- ciety at its last meeting had an interesting discussion of free trade and protection, in which Paul Dillon,-for free trade, and An- tonio 8. Smith, for protection, were the principal speakers. The base ball team suffered their first de- feat by a college team from Lehigh Wed- nesday afternoon, the score being 3 to 2. It 1s probable that‘had the team not been seriously crippled by"having two or three of its best men Paid ott of the game from injuries the scd#e' wWeuld have been re- versed. On Thuswday they ran up against another defeat ty- theFYale team, the score being 8 to 7. 1 oof Silks’ Frem Harper's Bagpr. : Judging from the, variety of silks display- ed this season—varied in price as well as Gesign—there is®every reason to believe that the majority of pmen kind will wear silk gowns during the, spring and summer months. Gauzes, grend@ines and thin trans- Parent materials of e' possible kind and description are the and yet the silks, in fusion of pattern, col to be cast’ one side. For linings th ly_used, but it : pular. eir bewildering pro- and fabric, are not Ye shown, ‘and-the dress- ip mo end Of smart makers are ‘up silk costumes, while large establishments offer ready le.@nes at what seem ab- ly hand Tet are high peed. y. isome ones that are high p Wash liks- for “shirt Waist éte also ‘in lemand, le up qi - ply, so the Sn be laundered. There is nothings a@ summer silk, and raists 7 Ss ceharery seen Thien we ‘grow in “fav 3 also they do not fade in laundering as other materials have a sad way of doing. Seah sr Sates mad surdly low prices, jagi velties ‘this season,” So many people have an idea that coffee has to be boiled to get the strength out of the crushed berry. On the contrary, boiling gives the liquid a peculiar bitter taste that is foreign to really good coffee. Besides that, it ruins the flavor. “Drip” coffee is supposed to be the very best coffee that is made, but even that is spoiled sometimes by letting the liquid boil up over the straii- er, thus loosening the oil that makes the coffee bitter. If you have not # regular coffee strainer, make three or four cheese- cloth bags of a size large erough to ac- commodate the amount of coffee that you use, allowing for swelling of the grain and for a drawstring to tie. Wash and boil the bags after making, so that not a ‘taste of the cloth remains in them. Fill the bag with the coffee, and have in a teakettle, boiling hot, exactly the amount of water you want to use for your coffee. Rinse the coffee pot out with hot water, and put the bag in the pot and pour over it the bojling water. Place-the pot on the back of the stove, where it will remain just below the bubbling period for at least ten minutes. The result will give you ciear, strong cof- fee; you need not use a grain more than for the old way—and it will not hurt: the weakest digestion. Neither is egg neces- sary. Empty the bag as soon as the meal is over, as there will be no more good in the coffee, and wash the bag in hot water; shake free of all the grounds and hang in the air to dry. Have at least four such bags, and keep them and the coffee pot scrupulously clean. The woman of small means and a desire for elegant gowns should confine herself to black as a foundation and build up her elegant idea cn fancy waists, the founda- tion of which should generally be black. It is a comparatively easy matter just now to be stylishly dressed if a woman has an atom of taste. A handsome black silk skirt. aad it should be the best that the pocketbook can afford, will answer for all ceremonious occasions. A heavy black wool skirt, for less stately society functions, and a serviceable black serge skirt for busi- ness, shopping and marketing, all well made, will fix a woman out for a whole season. For party wear any pretty light cheap silk, with some good lace, which pays best in the long run, and sets of ‘rib- bons that can be changed, will make a new waist by a slightly different adjustment of lace and ribbon each time. For calling and visiting, a handsome waist to match the silk skirt, with three or four vests, and both black and white lace, makes that waist a new one on occasion. One bodice of brighter silk may be indulged in for a change For the other two skirts, two silk shirt waists, one black, one in a pretty changeable silk, with linen collars and cuffs, and for the simpler skirt, muslin, percale and lawn waists, and a little jack- et like the skirt. To wear with the other two skirts, a pretty silk cape like the skirt, trimmed with good lace, which will last a lifetime if taken care of, completes the outlay for dresses, and a poor girl will lcok as stylishly gowned as her rich cousin. it is a mistake to buy poor coal oil for your lamps or for the little stoves There is at best but two or three cents difference, and the comfort in the use of the best oil is worth a deal more than that. Then the best oil is safest. It will not explode so easily, and it gives a much better light, a decidedly hotter blaze, then the second- class stuff. All of it is more or less malo- dorous, but with care it need not smell so very bad. Lamps and stoves should be carefully cleaned every day, and the lips =o the burner kept free from burnt parti- cles. If you have a sick friend, one who is shut in a greater part of the time from the world, do try and make life pleasanter for her. It may be that your time is precious and you cennot visit, but you can send a blossom or two, a rose or a few carnations, a box of fresh strawberries, a big orange, or a box of nice candy, all things that home folks will probably get, if the pa- tient expresses a desire for them, yet it is so pleasant to be remembered by one’s friends in that delicate way. Maybe you have a horse and carriage and your friend has none. It would be a gracious thing to ask her to take a drive these fine days, and would cheer her greatly, yet people who can tender such little courtesies are neglectful of them, though they could widen their sphere of usefulness a great deal if they would, and at no cost to seif. A lot of missionary work could be done in this great lonely city among young ladies who come here to earn a mere pit- tance to help needy ones at home, and who live in little hall bed rooms, eating but one good meal a day end living on “lunches” the other two meals. They know almost no one, and are dependent on strangers for any little attention. If they get acquaintéd with the wrong kind of people there is zo one to tell them till it is too late. There are plenty of societies to take them in and care for them when they have gone wrong, but it would be much more Christianlike to help them in their hour of loneliness and need. Take these yoing ladies into your pew at church. Invite them to dinner informally. Give them occasional tickets to good lectures, show them in delicate little ways that you are interested in them, and maybe the list of those who stray into forbidden paths will shorten. It is worth the trial, anyhow. The doctor came and examined her pulse, her tongue, her respiration, the color of her skin, the whites of her eyes, and heard her declare that she had headaches all the time, and no end of indigestion. Then he wrete out a prescription, and, with the remark that it was a drastic dose, but she would be a well woman in a week if she took it, he went off, and when she opened the piece of paper he left in her hand she read: “Onions three times a day, and be- tween meals if you like.’ She was pretty mad, but she took the dose, and now she says that she believes that onions will cure any kind of disease, even a love-sick swain if he gets a whiff of onion-scented breath in a kiss. It is true as gospel, however, that onions are a great cure-all. They stimulate the liver, they help the circula- tion, and they do clear up the skin wonder- fully. The girl who wants to get rid of her sallow, muddy complexion can do so by eating an onion sandwich every night just before retiring. Two thin slices of bread, well buttered, and finely chopped onion sprinkled thick between, with a dressing of salt and a little pepper, is the very best way, and, while they make one sleep well, they also go right to work on the thick, sluggish blood, and clear it up. It isn’t much wonder that men grow tired of their wives, when they so soon for- get to be pleasing objects to look at. A woman in a draggled soiled morning gown, her bangs stringing down over a not too clean face, her slippers ripped and worny but “easy,” no collar, and corsetless, isn’t an object to please anybody, not even her- self, and she is unnecessarily ugly, for a little time would make her as wholesome as ever she was in her palmiest days. It is true that a woman who has household cares cannot always be “dressed up,”’ but she can wear a clean dress, and she can always have soap and water and a comb. When you hear a man who has been mar- ried for fifteen years and more declaring that his wife doesn’t seem to get a day older, you can just be sure that she js keeping herself well groomed, and well in'{’~ hand, and_has never let her husband for- get the little courtesies of life which go far to keep the heart young: No man.likes a. frump, and least of all is he overjoyed to find that his wife is: that most objection- able thing. _—— A The Lost Genius. A giant came to me, when I was young, ir instant will to ask— a ‘My earthly Servant, the earth he sprumig. Hager for any task! : “What wilt thou, © my Master?” he began; maar ear ; a bu wish—whate’er thou wilt I 28 SMa a nv a gts MH To “Enter the carth and bring its riches forth, ‘or explore wea."” He ‘brought north All treasures back to me! “Build me a palace wherein I may dwell.”* “Awake, and see it re : Spake his great voice at dawn. O miracle, ‘That glittered in the sun! fit for my embrace, Princess my “Find me the ‘The vision water ony heanty-seeker see!" ** ! Master.” Is it JOHN east and west and south and_ She can bake, She can broil, She can fry; ...Ne’er a cake does she spoil, nor a pie; She's perfectly neat, Her temper is sweet, _And this is the reason why— She uses Cleveland’s Baking Powder. A Model Cook stamp and address. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., 8: Fulton St., New York. FOULARD GOWNS Will ‘Be, Perha: of the Summer Styles. From Harper's Bazar. It has been positi stated, and on good authority, thai all-over foulards — dark grounds with white patterns all over them were quite passe. So many are seen in the cheaper qualities, and so badly made up in the ready made so-called “bargain suits,” that they can no longer be classed among..the.new smart styles; but the chances are that more of these gowns will be seen this summer than of any other ..Kind of gown. Two charming modcls just imported have so’ much style and such ex- quisite blending of colors that they are certain to be copied if seen by any one clever enough to copy the chic look as well. One is of a golden brown, with a broad arabesque white pattern; the skirt, made separate from the silk lining, hangs full and wide, but the fullness is thrown well to the back; the waist, also loose from the lining except at shoulder and side seams, has entre deux of white lace two inches wide, which goes around, not up and down. Just in front is a narrow vest of fine- tucked batiste edged with yellow lace, and there is a deep square collar of the same lace, which in front stops at the edge of the vest. An odd point about this gown is that the waist slips under the skirt, and the skirt is finished at the belt with a broad black satin ribbon and bow at the back; the collar ts also of black satin, with a ruffle inside of lace. Ruchings of white satin around the skirt and up and down the sleeves are also odd and unusual, and add to the beauty. The other model is of Persian pattern— green, red, brown and yellow, all blended together. The skirt is plain. The waist is of embroidered batiste, over which falls in odd jacket effect the silk; at the back two long ends of the silk extend on to the skirt, and are finished with quillings of pleated yellow lace, fastened down with fancy but- tons. Quillings of lace are on the front of the waist alse, while touches of cerise vel- vet at fhroat and belt add still another color note that is effective without being glaring, as might. be supposed. Ready made silk costumes sold at the large establishments are sometimes won- derfully cheap. In pale gray and white stripe, made up all on silk linings, is an ex- ceedingly pretty gown for which $48 is asked. The skirt ts full, hangs well, and is trim- med with a bias ruffie headed with a ruche of white; the waist fits plain and tight in the back, in front are jacket pieces opening over a full blouse of plisse mousseline trim- med with rows of narrow lace. The qual- ity of silk in this gown is of the best, and all the materials used are good. For $28 there are costumes very light in weight and delightfully cool looking; black and white are the prettiest. They are made with five or six tiny bias ruffles edged with black velvet. The waists have bolero fronts trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon, and the full blouse front is of white silk with ruffles of lace. A belt and collar of velvet ribbon are also added, and it would hardly be possible to duplicate the gown for the same price if the material were bought and taken to even a low-priced dressmaker. On the other hand, there are any number of cheap silk costumes offered for sale that should be avoided like the plague: they look well enough cn the figures in the shops, but_no living woman will look well in them. There is not enough materia! in the skirts, and the waists are most care lessly made, while the silk itself is of the Poorest quality, ————_-+ e+ —____ An Awful Possibility. From the Indianapolis Journal. Weary Watkins—“What you lookin’ sp sore about?” Dismal Dawson—“I met a guy today ’at tole me I was really workin’ har’ bum- min’ around de country than if I was actually holdin’ a job. It may be true, too, for all I know.” —_-- -+0+ Cowless Milk. From an Exchange. “A acpital invention, these horseless car- riages!” “Don't talk rubbish. We have had for a long time things quite as remarkable in their way as horseless carriages, and no- body takes the slightest notice of them.” “Indeed! What, for instance?” “Cowless milk.” —————cee-. “Want” ads. in The Star pay because they bring answers. Book, 78 pages, yoo receipts, mailed free on receipt of the Most Popular ; Exhibited in Plain or V FP RAPAP DAPAR DART OA PAP IA SAP ANP DA PAPA PDA PF DA PLP = jd Colors and in Large From Harper's Bazar, nid: Plain taffeta silks trimmed with rows of Diack velvet ribbon look oddly old-fashic and yet smart, for they have the cachet of this year’s fashion upon them. The velvet is put on in zigzag patterns half way up the skirt, is an irch or two inches wide, and is of the ribbon sewed on only at one edge. The waist, also of plain black taffeta, has 80 much of other materials combined in it that it does not look the same—lace, plisse it mousseline, velvet, all find place on Sometimes the back of the waist is entire covered with lace, put on like a jacket, a the plisse will have lace ruffies over it. The sleeves are of the taffeta, shirred to t shoulder, where there is an odd old-fi ioned cap cr puff put on to give the effect of drooping shoulders. This puff or cap is trimmed with rows of black velvet ribbon. It would be almost safe to model the sleeves and the skirt trimming of these taffetas on the old prints of 1887. While plain changeable taffetas are no icnger new, they have been recently shown in great numbers with a pattern of polka dot, check, or stripe, and are exceedingly effective; in bright red with a black dot, brown with a white cot and blue with a green dot are some particularly noticeable cnes. These silks will be made with very little, if any. trimming on the skirt. Most Startling large plaids have just been ¢ hibited in taffeta silks—green and white black end white, red and black, &c. Fortu- nately the waists are of the plain color, but even then the gown is decidedly sho" but all the newer styles seem to b ingly loud. The stripes grow wi e plaids more vivid, and the patterns larger, so that medium-sized women are a bit tre bled, but they can turn their attention to the plain taffetas—black, white, gray, & In gray, by the way, are some exquisite gowns trimmed with quantities of white lace on the waist and velvet belt and © lar to relieve the too trying effect of th gray, which is not always becoming. On gray taffeta gown has jacket fronts which are embroidered in steel and edged with black velvet loops, under which shows a narrow white ruffle of mousseline de sole. Combining taffeta silk with foulard seems an odd freak of fancy, but at a recent fash- ionable opening a gown that excited no end of attention was of china blue and white foulard, the waist trimmed with square collar ard jacket fronts of plaid taffeta. Strangely enough, the effect was good and not glaring, as might seem from the de- scription, but the combination is not one to be attempted rashly. ————_~-e-—__. OLD STYLES REVIVED. Princess Gowns and Polonaises On More in Fashion. From Harper's Bazar. Princesse gowns and the old polonaise— that garment that can be so hideous—are among the new fashions. As yet evening gowns and heavy long coats have been the principal exponents, but now they are more frequently to be seen among the gowns just made up. In black and white check, a medium-sized check, is a charming gown. The fronts are plain, lap over to one side, and there is a broad revers overlapping the side which is faced with black moire edged with white braid. On the small revers there is the same facing and trimming. The back is draped a little, but the center falls full into three godets with four rows of shirring just at the top. Where the fron:s lap over there is a glimpse of an underskirt ruffied and flounced, and at the neck there is a tucked linen chemisette. The lines on this costume are charming, but require to be very carefully cut and fitted over the hips. In an evening gown of black net over white satin the same idea ts seen. Both satin and net fit to perfection over the hips, but below flare out so wide as to look a though held out with crinoline. The waist is trimmed with tiny folds of wnite mous- seline de soie arranged like a bertha and edged with lace, while just in front is a tri- angular piece of lace which falls below the waist line. The sleeves are small shirred puffs edged with narrow lace ruffles. Very quaint and picturesque is this gown, which is cut quite off the shoulders in 1830 style. ie The World's Need. So many gods. so many creeds, So many paths that wind and wind, While just the art of being kind Is all the xad world needs. —ELLA WHEELER WILCOX. aber ti “Grandma, I wish you and I had beaux, don't you?’—Lite ee e wey,