Evening Star Newspaper, March 27, 1897, Page 20

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MARCH 27, 1897-24 PAGES. SPRING MODELS GOWNS’ NEW COLORS, Novelties Prepared by Paris Modistes for Women’s Wear. LATEST SPRING STYLES Dresses With the Polonaise to Be Given a Fair Trial. — - PRETTY EVENING COSTUMES Copsright, 1807 ler Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, March 15, 1897. coat and skirt suit for the coming nmer differs from last year’s, ‘mong points, In the small amount of front displayed. A new exam- i ates a cut that prom- uccessful ts of china vic blue and white trimmed except in hair Ine stripes silk ning. The down the mid- the back, where from waist to set rows of narrow dark 1 fastened with small silver but- eross tons at elther end. The coat !s long enough to come well down upon the hips; it is fitting 1 the back and haif-fitting sides, with straight fronts that turn - neck in a narrow flat coilar and I revers. The close-fitting. breasted waistcoat of tan pique with red and blue buttons al- d the small triangle arly hidden under a cravat, spotted white and blue. sleeves are is higher than last year’ id not be. r will remain in favor through- Some very pretty reddish t purple shades appear In the new rials, with a large amount of mauv and erange is a favorite combinatic as gray, orange and biue. Light is perhaps the most fashionable color; it sed by itself, In st: dark or light blue, and in odd com- Fawn color, y is another combinatio ids are making a struggle with nations with red and brown. themselves and are sometimes very attractive in soft shade: Woolen brocades are in higher favor than some years, not for warmth’s sake, to gf color and variety to a dress which might otherwise have a silk bodice or blouse, if these did not now require ge- nius to keep them from getting wearisome by fteration. A soft, pale green wool skirt, for example, !s trimmed with a flat band of Kk, after the nature of a tuck, near the hem, and is worn with a bodice of blue and dark green woolen brocade. made with pretty cape-like revers, edged with a black band, like that upon the skirt, and giving the effect of a light wrap for spring wear. Conformably with this {dea the bodice has narrow basques showing below the belt in Jacket style. A few of the spring dress the ise. That this heralded for month: here yw be no question. Whether or find any large amount of favor matter. For the present it is xperimental. The most suc- mpt I have seen in this direc- <a dress worn by Jane Hading on stage of the Gymnase. It was a cream- chine silk striped With pink and ng with silver thread. An orna- 1 panel upon the front of the skirt | white grenadine caught with fan} of lace over pink. A frill of eatings of lace, with a_ros2bud tle of every shell, ran about the is really in the across the front panel. The of pale pink chine silk cream and threaded as be- | r. It was made low in the h a trim fitting bodice open- race-like revers, to of white gre Below the the draperies of the 3 graceful lines ut with difference meaning of the “ge Was edged ich also made the | was finisted | goll galloon. | wear in y full and very These are from a ruche downward curve ve behind, so that, ise t train, a flounce s wide in the back The effect sought is » of the drape hich ts reri. Ball gowns have or gauze at the heavy materials rich gold and sil- 4 embrolderies. shed on the bodice espectal- of which becomes stiff with of turquoise and steel, or ‘The long gauze or FROM PARIS. lace scarves draped across the shoulders of princess dresses and allowed to fall to the ground in front are the most grace- ful of all recent innovations in_trimming. The empire gown and the Louis XV models show no sign of relaxing thelr grip upon popularity. If I were to cite any one style cf street dress at once novel and safe for a reign of some months’ favor it might easily be a soft plaid cloth in fawn and red with which I had an interview this morning This costume had a round skirt of panels and pleats, with little frogs in dark green and black catching panel to panel. The bodice was a silk blouse matching the cloth of the skirt in colors and plaidings and worn under an odd bolero of fawn cloth, which was the prettiest item of the toilet, with its tight sleeves flaring slightly at the wrists and having puffed epaulets of the silk to help out the shoulders. Large triangular revers faced with green and braided with geld turned back from the front and gave a little touch of piquancy. The belt and neck finishings were of green silk, and the accompanying hat was a small round affair of green straw with trimmings of red roses and black plumes. It is not an easy matter to give any semblance of originality to the bolero, but it can be done. Some of the newest are hollowed out in the middie of the back in a deep heart-shaped pattern. A pretty canvas dress checked in dark blue and white with a hair-line of green has a bolero of this shape braided about with black and short enough behind to make the folded belt of dark blue silk almost a corselet. In front it opens upon a green canvas waistcoat braided with black. The skirt {s of plain dark blue. A pretty evening dress, the forerunner of many to be prepared for the festivities after Easter, is of pink lsse draped ovcr pink satin. The low square-cut bodice is finished about the decolletage with lace sewn with pearls and emeralds. Narrow [A BIG FLOWER SHOW The City’s Beautiful Parks in Early Spring. HOW THIS RESULT 15 ACCOMPLISHED -—_—. A Careful System and Constant Labor Are Required. es BLOSSOMS ALL THE YEAR os Tz. FIRST SIGNS of the dawn of Washington's most beautiful season commenced to man- ifest themselves about a week ago, when the warm, sweet winds from the southland began to banish the leaden, dun-hued clouds, painted the skies a radiant _ turquoise, Uf: ll ks ‘ and produced once again for the nappy folks who live in this city the beautiful flowers of spring. The inspiration of the wonderful spring flowers that shyly peep out of the ground of Washington's public parks under the en- couragement of the first few days of warm sunshine is something that is keenly en- joyed by the people of Washington, accus- tomed, as they are, to the most superb an- nual resurrection of nature to be seen in any large city in America. The aspect of Washington in the early spring dazzles and overwhelms visitors from all sections of this country and of the world, who very sensibly elect to see Washington in its most perfect season. It would be difficult to overestimate the effect which Washington, sumptuous in the leafiness and flowerage of spring, its atmosphere heavy with the fragrance of blossoms, has, for instance, upon the vis- itor from the northern city, the streets of which, when he left it for the national cap- ital, might. still, perhaps, have not been entirely free from the last traces of snow. The man from Chicago—the only American city which may in the slightest sense be compared with Washington as to the beauty of its park flower gardening—opens his eyes when he strikes Washington in the latter days of March or early in April, and he for once forbears making the claim here that the sky is higher over Chicago than elsewhere in the world; for his town does not break into bloom for a good solid month, and often for fully six weeks, after frills of lisse frame the shoulders and | Washington has become an urban paradise. make nests for the rosebuds grouped upon] Washington people, and visitors in Wash- the left shoulder. The skirt is trimmed | ington, who note with delight the crocuses with grouped frills from the lowest of | and tulips and hyacinths popping out of which falls a deep flounce set on in curves. | the park flower beds at this season of the The lisse sleeves are swathed closely about and who later revel in the ornate year, the arms and are headed by lace epaulets. | beauty and the fragrance of the summer A very rich evening gown of green satin | flowers they happen upon in all of the brocaded with silver is cut after the prin- | city’s public parks, often express surprise « model, with low heart-shaped bodice | that these flowers make their appearance and train. A long scarf of old lace thrown | with such unfailing regularity and in such about the shoulders is caught above the | beautiful, uniform arrangement, and won- arms with diamond butterflies and falls on | der how the thing is done. either side of the front to the ground. For a younger woman is a dancing dress with full round skirt in silver ‘tinsel, strip- ed with gauze. This material ts laid in flve accordeon pleats and draped over tur- No Miracle at All. There is nothing miraculous about it all. The appearance of Washington's spring, summer and autumn flowers is the result - blue sik. About the hem is a full i ruche of gauze with sprays of |Of @ careful system and an immense roses upon one side. The bodice is low | amount of labor. The work is all done and square cut, with a band of turquoise studded lace across the front and a heavy garland of roses draped across the bust and around the shoulders. ‘The belt is of blue China silk with knots on the left side. ELLEN OSBORN. ee The New Sailor Hat. From Harper's Bazar. A most elaborate affair is the saflor hat of this season, and with little resemblance to the shape of that name which has been in fashion so long. The amount of trimming massed upon it {s inconceivable, but fortunately the straws are now light- under the supervision of Public Gardener George H. Brown, whose headquarters in the seven-acre plot back of the bureau of engraving and printing, known as the pro- pagating gardens, is, perhaps, as busy a bit of ground devoted to horticultural pur- poses as there is in the world. The work in these propagating gardens, about two acres of which are under glass, never ceases from one year’s end to the other. In the summer the employes of the gardens are training the flowers for winter plant- ing, and they spend the winter in prepar- ing to make the public parks of Washing- ton glorious with4iowers during the months of spring and summer. The crocuses, tulips, hyacinths and lilies er in weight than has been the case, so there 1s not so much burden as there ap- pears to be in the edifice. Bunches of tulle, stiff sprays of flowers, and a feather or two are all put on and around the crown somewhat in last year’s way, but with the difference that marks this sea- son from last. Black or white fine straw sailors are charming in their lines; and the double brim, with a light brim against the face, Is as a rule becoming, while the rosettes or tufts of flowers inside the brim at the back look particularly well wito the hair worn as it Is now—pulled out and full at the back and sides of the head. Heliotrope and all the different shades of purple are as fashionable as ever, while violets galore are seen everywhere; and violet hats and bonnets, made both of single and double violets, are apparently as much sought after as the day they made their first appearance. The late winter styles—those that ap- peared after Christmas—will be reproduced in straw In many instances. The full shir- red crown of the black velvet picture hat has been faithfully copied in silk and mousseline de soie crowns, while the straw brim has a facing of mousseline de sole, or even velvet, that seems almost too much like a winter hat. The shirred crowns are sometimes supplemented by shirred brims, and there are a great many to be seen. In spite of the trimmings of ribbon, flowers, and feathers, these shir- red hats do not seem altogether suitable for anything~ but midsummer wear. The bonnets are quite different, for bonnets nowadays are such minute affairs that the material leoks all the better for being soft and fluffy. -2e+— If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. ————— Interesting to the Clergy. From the Somerville Journal. , =the flowery couriers of the pageantry of blcssoms that is to make its appearance later—which are now writing the word “spring” all over the parks of Washington, are by no means the products of unassist- ed nature. The Washingtonian who is just now enjoying the sight of these flowers probably did not notice, late last October and early in November, the flocks of gar- deners who then quickly “covered” all of the one hundred and odd parks in the city where flowers are cultivated, making tho necessary preparations for the appearance of these early spring flowers just at this season. When the autumn leaves were be- ginning to be scattered by the first chill blasts of the dreary season, these govern- mental gardeners placed in the ground, for incubation and development during the long winter season, exactly 60,000 crocus, tulip, hyacinth and lily bulbs. They spaded the flower beds into all sorts of conforma- tions and geometrical figures for the pur- pose—diamonds, triangles, crosses, stars, crescents and circles—and they did the work in less than thirty days. Then the snows of winter’ came along and covered them up. The bulbs, snuggling in their warm beds, thus spent the winter in germination and expansion and in preparing to give their annual spring surprise party by hop- pirg out of the earth just as soon as the sun gave them one warm, cordial invitation to make their initial nods in his effulgence. Every one of these bulbs thus planted in the flower beds of the public parks was taken from the nurseries in the propagat- ing gardens, although the original bulbs used for this purpose were brought to this country from Holland, for, curiously enough, although almost any horticultural product of the world, even those of tropical zones, can be produced from seed under glass in the United States, the bulbous plants cannot be so produced. Rotation of Flowers. It might naturally be thought fhat, in- stead of going to the trouble of removing all these bulbs, whence spring the earliest flowers, the gardeners would permit them to remain in the ground, to serve their purpose at the beginning of the following spring. This, however, would be impossi- ble, on account of the fact that the ground wherein repose the bulbs fs required, when the early spring flowers have lived their A minister who used to preach in Somer- ville had a littie boy. A few days before his father left the city to go to his new parish one of his neighbors said to the little be ‘o your father 1s going to work in New Bedford, 1s he?” The little boy looked up wonderingly. “Oh, no,” he said. “Only preach.” WHERE DUTY CALLED. “Hello, Mary, old girl! Didn't see you at the culture olub last night.” “No, there was an important meeting of the house committee at the Pants Club.” brief lives and disappeared, for the plant- ing of the summer foliage and flower-bear- ing plants that are to make the later sea- son lovely, just as these summer plants are in their turn removed from their park beds to make way for the blossom-bearers of autumn. From the first of May, by which time all of the early spring flowers will have dis- appeared, until the latter part of June, Public Gardener Brown's assistants will be occupied in setting out in the flower beds of the parks these summer plants. The magnitude of the work they will ac- complish during this period will be appre- ciated when it is stated that this year they will distribute throughout the park flower gardens of the city over 500,000 plants, of more than 250 varieties. About 100,000 of these summer plants will be of the flower-bearing varieties, and the remaining 400,000 will be foliage plants of many beautiful species and colors. To be- gin with, there will be set out more than 100,000 alternanthera of many different varieties—follage plants, golden, scarlet, purple, all the colors of the rainbow. There will be nearly 150,000 low-growing foliage Plants set out for bedding designs. Mr. Brown makes all of these designs himself, and for several years he has followed a graceful custom of preparing in advance designs appropriate to the great conven- tions that so often meet in Washington during the summer season. His three mag- nificent beds in the city’s three most not- able parks, representing the insignia and important dates in the history of the So- ciety of Christian Endeavor, when the En- deavorers were here last year, and his floral representations of all of the various badges of the Grand Army of the Republic, on the occasion of the Grand Army’s re- union here, will be remembered by many Washingtonians. About 75,000 varieties of coleus will be set out this summer. The five principal varieties of this family to be used will he the “purple prince,” which was originated fn the propagating gardens, the “Shylock,” the “golden bedder the well-known “Dr. Jacobs,” and the “Verschaef-Feltu.” In all, about 20,000 geraniums are to be plant- ed—scariet, pink and white, and several new varieties recently jntroduced from Cal- ifornia. Twelve or fi thousabd rose bushes will be placed t! wummer, only the hardiest varieties ig made use of, however, as experience hag shown that the roses of the more tendet varieties do not thrive in the parks wi the scorching breezes of the hottest suffimer’ periods. The Coming Srasen. The parks this summer!will be adorned by an unusual number of tropical and sub- tropical plants. During;the hot months several giant palms that have never been removed from the propagating gardens will be placed in Frankliri, and Lafayette squares. “Coral plants’’-will also be con- spicuous in the park beds this summer. They are so called on account of the big clusters of red flowersithey bear. They grow so rapidly that they become small trees in the course of a:single season. other decoration for the! parks this sum- mer will be the flow tobacco plant, which has beautiful biossoms in great spikes. This flowering tobacco plant is only a cousin to the tobacco plant of commerce. In shady parts of some of the parks the genuine tropical plants will be noticed— pineapples, crotons, bananas, the arrow- root and the “dumb cane” and many other varietieb. In the parks that have fountains Public Gardener Brown intends to plant-if the mere act of throwing them into the water constitutes the act of planting—many new and peculiar varieties of aquatic plants, many of them only recently introduced into the United States. People who dur- ing the past year or so have read those strange tales of how the water hyacinth has s0 clogged up the rivers of Florida as to seriously interfere with and in some cases entirely prevent their navigation by steamboats, owing to the thick resistance they offer to paddlewheels, will this sum- mer have a chance to see just what these water hyacinths look Ike, for they are to be placed in all of the fountain ponds. The work of the park gardeners is by no means over, in so far as it concerns the park beds, when they have finished this big task of summer planting. The plants and shrubs require constant attention, and the gardeners’ wagons never cease their flitting over the city during all of the summer months. But their great task of the year—greater even than the planting of the summer flowers—is the removal of them from the beds to the propagating gardens before the coming of the autuma blasts. Preparing for Winter. Late in September the sensitive plants, such as palms, ferns, crotons, roses and tropical plants, are all carefully removed from the parks and returned to the propa- gating gardens to be housed for the win- ter, and, after these sensitive plants have been thus taken care of, all the rest of the summer plants, both of the flowering and foliage varieties, are removed in the same fashion. It 1s not only necessary that these summer plants should be housed for their own preservation, but the beds in which they are planted are needed for the planting of the autumn and winter plants, as, for instance, the hardy chrysanthe- mums, which are planted in enormous num- bers early in the fall, and the flowering shrubs, the dainty little blossoms of which make their appearance on the warm days of midwinter. When the summer plants have been re- moved to the propagating gardens, cuttings are made from the coleus and soft-wooded plants to provide for the supply for the following summer. Not all of these soft- wooded plants, which include a great num- ber and variety of geraniums, are removed trom the parks. They are given away, and may be had by any citizen who asks the park watchman for them, so that in Wash- ington it is a simple enough matter to lay in a supply of household plants for the winter at no other cost ‘thah that of potting them. The planting of the »¢hrrsanthemums is done at the same time the crocus, tulip, hyacinth and lily bulbs, arg placed in the beds, the rugged autumn plants being set in the same earth wherein“bufrow for the win- ter the dainty spring flowers that are to be. In the fall months Washington presents in its public parks a superb out-of-doors chrysanthemum show. But a fact of which very few people in Washingion seem to be aware is that every autumn there is a chrysanthemum exhibition at the propa- gating gardens compared with which the annual and much talked of chrysanthemum show at Madison Square Garden, in New York, is of very smali importance. This display of chrysanthemums every fall at the propagating gardens is @aid to be really the finest exhibition of the sort to be scen in the world, and it is free to all. In the matter of appropriating money for this splendid labor of making Washington a horticultural elysium almost from one year’s end to the other, Congress Is ex- ceedingly parsimonious. At the present time the amount allowed for the purpose is but little in excess of that allowed for the same work years ago, when there were Jees than half the number of reservations laid out and under cultivation. There is something rather singular in this fact, too, when it is considered that during the winter seasons, when Congress is in session, the legislators save a lot of money on florists’ bills through the kindly aid of the propa- gating gardens. The acres of flowering plants there cultivated under glass furnish Uterally millions of blossoms, and of these senators and representatives in Congress get almost as many as they ask for. They are by no means slow in asking for them, either, ard during the sessions the gardens’ wagons are kept pretty busy hauling roses, violets, carnations and other exotics to the legislators’ residences. es Small Bonnets. From Harper's Bazar. Theater bonnets are a necessity, now that the big hats are tabooed, and exquisitely Gainty are some of the new ones. A favor- ite combination is white and black, and a small Dutch bonnet of white silk embroid- ered in jet, with jet wings spreading in all directions, is exceedingly smart. Made en- tirely of rhinestones, with only a stiff spray of pink roses perched directly atop, is an- other style; while an open-work jet crown is graced with five osprey feathers and a tulle aigrette. Head-dresses have been growing larger and theater bonnets smaller with such ce- lerity they they have apparently met, and it requires a practiced eye to tell which is which, for two ostrich plumes, a rosette of tulle, an aigrette, and a rhinestone orna- ment can be combined to do duty for both occasions. The high effect is still the correct one for all hats: even the pretty close-fitting bon- nets, which have reappeared, have their flat look quite done away with by the way the trimmings are arranged. When the bonnet is arranged at the right angle it is smart and becoming, but if it is an inch too far forward or back it is very trying. Eng- lish walking hats have the trimming quite high at the sides, but low in the front and back. One very odd model has stiff spread- out wings at either side, and all around the crown are bunches of purple and yellow violets and pansies. This hat is unusually wide. As a rule, the walking hats are smaller than those worn during the win- ter. Soft toques of velvet or silk, with just an edge of straw brim and a stiff little pompon are the favorite hats just at pres- ent, but will not be suitable after the warm weather sets in; in their place are the straw toques with sifk ‘trimmings and ostrich pompons, that‘@re most effective, becoming and durable." The same prodigalityas:to feathers still prevails, and black fine straw hats, fairly loaded down with feathers, are works of art. One plume drooping backward on the hair reminds us of the. riding hats in the old English engravings. .In silvery-gray straw, with two long f ré around the crown and an aigrette at ‘one side, is an exquisite hat to be wotm' with a gray cos- HOUSEHOLD HINTS “A. m. 1.” are cabalistic letters that strangers to the city do not understand, yet they mean a good deal to thoee seeking homes, whether rented rooms, apartments, flats or whole houses. They simply mean “all modern improvement: and the wo- man who is seeking a home for her family— and only a woman knows how to select or build a home—will see that “all the modern improvements” are there if she values the health of her dear ones. Bath rooms are the first consideration, with perfect plumb- ing, airy sleeping rooms next, a light Fitchen, a cheerful “living room” and sun- shine everywhere. “Dark rooms are an abomination, except in a photographer's establishment. They are unfit for sleeping rooms; if turned into closets they are al- ways musty, and on general principles they are to be shunned. A child’s instinct is the best in this regard. It naturally flees from a dark place, and wants “light, more light,” everywhere. If the sunshine can get into every nook and cranny of a house, its keepe- is almost compelled to keep it clean, and the first step toward perfect health is thus taken. It is said that almost no one is perfectly well, but those who are habit- ually cleanly come nearer being so than the great unwashed element. A physician says that if a sharp foreign substance Is swallowed no emetic should be given, but the patient snould be put on a “soft” diet for a few days. Mashed po- tatoes, he considers, will be the very best food for the purpose. Above all things, don't go poking round the patient's throat yourself. You will only make a bad mat- ter worse. Licorice powder is considered a perfectly safe as well as a mild aperlent. A dessert epoonful at night mixed in warm water, as often as required. The best medicine, how- ever, Is to correct the method of living which brings about torpidity of the liver. Aperients are always more or less injurious in the long run. If the little ones have worn out all other amusements you may be sure that “picture books” will catch their infantile imagina- tion. For this purpose save all the illus- trations you get, in paper or magazine. Get the children ready for the fray by putting on them old dresses that paste will not hurt. Provide them with dull-pointed scissors and papers, end show them how to cut the pictures out. The same will prob- ably appear at firat minus a few arms and heads, but do not mind that. Have a big rug made for them to-work on—clean sack- ing answers admirably—and it can be fold- ed up and put away for another day's fray. If there is not a nursery table for them to work at have a a large cracker box turned on its side—two if there are two children, so that there will be no bick- ering. Meke a nice, smooth, but very stiff paste, and put it in a big flat dish, so that it will not easily upset, and, if it does, will not spill out. Paste brushes can be made by binding a narrow bit of old musiin three inches in length to a short handle of ©, grooved at the end to let the twine sink in to hold the muslin. Any old book that you do not care for, such as govern- ment pub‘ications, with every other leaf tern out, will make a good scrap book. Sbow the children how to use the paste, and teach them to be painstaking, and you will be surprised to see how quickly they “catch on,” and what creditable work they will learn to do. This is nice work for a little convalescent, and the book often serves to amuse the child when fll in bed. If the child is old enough to work under- standingly a muslin book is neatest, and this can be kept for the better class of pictures. A man of science who gives a society wo- man pepsin tablets at five dollars a call says that call, pepsin, money and neces: tor any of them would be saved if wom and men—would learn to eat properly. is himself an epicure. and eats rich viands, but he knows how these are prepared, and can prepare them himself on occasion, and he selects the proper time to eat them. He ecnsiders it nothing less than suicidal for the brain worker, for instance, to eat a hearty lunch. People who are much in the open air, and who exercise freely, can eat about what they please, so that they satis- fy their hunger at stated periods and are punctual about it. But he thinks it is all but criminal for a woman who has to use her brain and who must be on the alert with a vigorous mentality. to divert the blood from her brain, where it is most needed, to the stomach, by setting it to work on a promiscuous lot of food. He is of the opinion that the brain worker shoald eat most heartily after the day’s work is done. Breakfast may be moderately hearty, or quite hearty, if taken an hour or more before beginning work. Lunch, however, should be exceedingly light, just a little to sustain nature till dinner time. A cup of beef tea, and a cracker or two, fruit of some kind, or a cup of cocoa. Dinner what you please if properly prepared. Great beauties are born, not made, zhough they generally take good care that the di- vine model shall not be marred by negli- gence, and yet we are told that “handsome is as handsome does.” Trite though the truism, it has never been gainsaid. We admire the beautifully chiseled marble, and the rounded contour of perfect limbs, the fine figure, call forth expressions of pleas- ure, but we turn from the work of art very quickly to rest our eyes on the placid face of the gentle woman whose life of self?abnegation and denial have stamped her plain features with a lght as from heaven, and in our hearts we say that this is the beauty that God gives to the pure in heart, the undefiled. After all, the woman of plain feature has ro cause to complain if she has but the knack of pleasing, who cultivates graces of mind and manner, and who lets her soul expand, as the Creator meant that it should. She will have much the advantage of her sister of the fairer face, because one tires of the graven image type of beauty, whose heart is stone and mind a block of marble upon which no noble thought kas ever made its impression. The woman whose beauty is her only dower is more than Hable to fetch up in the divorce court, because no man cares for even costly bric- a-brac after its beauty has departed, and time is far from kind to the beauty that comes from mere physical charm. Maybe you think that a chafing dish can’t be used to ccok so prosaic a thing as ham and eggs, but that is a mistake. How is this for a quick lunch for two? Make your coffee in one of the tiny drip coffee pots first. Have the coffee in the pot and pour over it the boiling water from the pan of the chafing dish, leaving the dish at least half full of water, over which stand the two plates. Place the upper pan of the chafing dish over the lamp, and lay in it two rather thin slices of cold boiled or un- cooked ham, rubbing it round to get the pan well greased with the fat. Fry one minute on each side if cooked; two if uncooked. When done, put on one of the hot plates and turn the other over it. Break two eggs into a saucer, and then pour them carefully into the hot grease in the smoking upper pan. When done to your taste remove carefully to the slices of ham on the two hot plates. Of course you have been attending to your coffee meantime, pouring the water over the ground berry to get the best of it, and it is cooling a little. Put an asbestos plate over the lamp, and on that place your coffee pot, to heat to the boiling point. A dish of berries, or sliced orange with sugar, makes a lunch for the “first lady of the land” to enjoy, and it is all hot. The best chafing dish has a rim all around it. ———— It matters little what it is that you want —whether a situation or a servant—a “waut” ad. in The Star will reach the persen who can fill your need. tume. § sf TAKING NO CHANCES. From Life. ROYAL The absolutely pure BAKING ‘POWDER. Caring for your health, and studying simple, every-day econ- omy, you will see to it that no baking pow- der but the ROYAL enters your kitchen. The low-grade, cheap powders contain alum and lime, and injuri- ously affect the stom- ach and kidneys. ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. | \ Lenvceneeneeseeeseneeeooceoeeses THE CAREER OF THE CORSET. A BEAUT “UL EASTER CUSTOM, The Stays Worn in Olden Times and Those of Later Years. The Advent of Rew cd With ree ody and Praise From the Philadelphia Record. From the Lad ome Journal Fashion and science have joined hands| “No more divinely appropriate express lately on the subject of women’s waists, of the Moravians’ love of music and and now that a belt may safely measure | appreciation of Its lnspiriting power 4 one, two or even three inches more tha be found than in their sublime annuneia it did a few seasons ago, it looks as if tion of the resurrection day. Through time-honored corset was gradually being] the quiet streets (of iBethiehem, Pa) tn sent into semi-disgrace. the early morn, the trombonisis walk from Many and various are the different pat-] place to place, pouring forth thelr grand terns of waists offered to the woman whose | inspiring anthem that ar the s health or whose advanced ideas urge a| bering town to the w © knowledg larger waist, and, as a matter of course, | of the advent of this glorious Now deeper breathing. But, although all these | here, now there, now every wher zhts compromises between stays and no stays) appear within the windows well are winning wide favor, it does not follow | ings, and the st 1 with by any means that the’ day of the corset, | people, young and old way pure and simple, 1s over. | from all directions toward the church, and It has had a varied career since it first ing one another with jovir . appeared in Italy during the extravagant | tions of the day. T t is gorgeousness of the Renaissan begun within the « h a ine di Medicis took it with her as part of | there until the brightenin 4 her trousseau when she went to France | advent of the dawn. to wed Henry II, and, in spite of its crude } on, Subdued and veve ugliness, nost of the fashionable ladies in | without the ors, and, h Paris adopted it. The fair Queen of Scots mbonists, solemnly and Diana of. Poitiers refused to don the | winding aill to their beloved a tortuous ccmbination of fron and velvet, but their sinuous charms fre conventionalism end excused them for many things. Uncomfortable as the cor- sets unques most of the fair dames bravely themselves up in them, and the Elizabethan belle in her stiff ruff and endless length from shoulde: m to hips was not £0 y different f the fash.on plates of the past few years. However, the inventive artisans soon sub- stituted something more pliable than cold iron with which to encircle the fair ones of the hour; the days of Louis XIV da and the mold of fashion which plea that fastidicus monarch’s eye was that which permitted no hint whatever of 5 bility in the feminine form or ease in pos- ture and movement. But when Louis XV_ arrived Boucher, his court painter, introduced the dames of the Oeil de Boeuf as coy shepherdesses and rural beauties, and for a time stift waists became obsolete; but Boucher died, and the tenacious corset again was in favor until Marie Antoinette posed as a country maiden at Little Trianon, and once more easy lines were In vogue. During the di- rectory the waist line was entirely con- cealed and Roman and Grecian sandals and togas held their graceful sway. pire gowns brought the waist immediately beneath the bust; but the empire fell, the them from | The em- | & ground. the cl ongrega jarge semi-rirc nd anticipation of the 1 faith, A little : 1 and the t nse of deep, r : hered throng gray morning of t ait, in spiritual arted loved Above the Then from | host ther {| song, a heartfelt hymn of praise and tion, a spontaneous symphony of § starts in glad expression triomy hearts, and mingling with | sounding strains of sweet | and resonant trom) ar wi | warbling song of joy birds in | sannas to the splendent sky. For radiant light o’erspreads the es j wondrous glory hails the new-born The sun appears in fulgency sublime symbol of the resurrected life, and earth and heaven in exulting joy peal forth im glad, antiphonal accord: “The Lord ts risen! Hallelujah, pr: the Lord che i ho: A God's -coo-——__—__ dness for waist dropped with it, and the modern steel whalebone and satin corset came in with the century, to last in undisputed favor until this latest movement against it took shape. For the first time in its history the ar- “In His Campaigning With Gran March Century n. Horace Porter guments against it are fortified by pleas | 4M anecdote of the petiiaant rer for health rather than beauty, and it may | stcwed upon a teamster who albus be that its final doom has come; but the | horses, Gen. Porter says that Grant re- “ways of mankind are warlous, but those’ ferred to the incident, which seemed to womankind wariouser,” and no one can | - sg CRESS leh oe peagees aes after we have had an era of substan- | ™ake a great Impression uy 7 enn at th tial’ women and unfettered bodies, whether | dinner table, and then sat¢ pe it will not be followed by the irrepressible | knew how much more they could ¢ corset in all its pristine stiffness. of a horse by gentleness than by harshness, BES Se SS they would save a deal of tro’ To Care for Pearls. both to the horse and man. Ah is sew Yi rticularly intelligent animal: he be From Le New York Times, a particular made to do almost anything if his master It is pretty generally understood by wo- Fd splinter dpe oh wll einein men who have achteved choice pearl rings is required. Some amen, for ins é that while clear, pure water does not injure | want to lead a horse forward, the gem, scap and water will soon affect | turn toward him and stare a “d the aed : hinks they are barring his their luster and color, and in time will | . = ws fi gh emg dhe cause them to peel, or shed an outer coat. | turn their to him and move on, he This crumbling, however, takes place even | would naturally follow. I am looking for- when the gems are most carefully treated, | ward Icrgingly to the = pr we _ and when the tendency is noted the ring or | ad apes an aeihe Boxe om Say See ee es See train young colts, and 1 will invite yc taken to a jeweler. The course of treat- 3 . to visit me and take a hand in th ment. When old age comes on too feeble to move about, I expect ment often prescribed by that authority is that of the rest cure. Put it aside in its box, carefully closed from light and air, and’ a few weeks or possibly a month of | SNe TH trin the center of @ Tile a wort of two of this lying fallow will often entirely Tr aLOMiE, Saree eng a acne restore the original beauty and health of | [rainins cour ee Se es the gem: arcund the r He little foresaw that @ re eres = torturing disease was to cut short his life A Second Growth of befcre he could realize his cherished hopes From the Springfield Republican. of enjoying the happiness of the peacelul &. E. Reed of West Springfleld has re- | ld age which he anticipated. turned from a visit in Chatham, N. Y., and he has brought with him a curious freak of nature. It is a bunch of second growth ap- ples, a very rare thing. In fact, many OR.CHAS: farmers to whom he showed the apples said that they had never seen anything like it. The apples were found on a tree that had borne large sweet apples which were picked the last of June. The tree was on ihe farm of a man named McQuade, who is a roadmaster on the Boston and Al- bany railroad. In July the tree blossomed again, and last Monday the second-growth apples were found upon it. There were three in the bunch that Mr. Reed brought with him, and there were about twenty on the tree, being confined to one limb. The appies are stunted, but they grew to the size of a peach and look healthy enough. ——__-o+__—_ Spring. ‘The sweet south wind, so long Steeping in other climes, on sunny eegs, Or dallsing gayly with the orange trees In the bright land of song. ‘Wakes unto us, and laughingly sweeps by, Like a glad spirit of the sunlit sky. ‘The laborer at his toil Feels on his check its dewy Kiss, and lifts His open brow to catch its fragrant gifts— The aromatic spoil Borne from the blossoming gardens of the south — While its faint sweetness lingers round his mouth. ‘greet the alight, while it lingers yet To greet the sunlight, while On the warm hillside; and the violet its azure cuj Stekts: ‘and. countless wild flowers wake to fing ‘Treir earliest incenke on the geles of Sprinz. . . Ror “Must a blessing” for the human beart. f 4 Balm for. its wounds and healing for ite smart, Telling of winter flown, And Dringing hope upon the rainbow, wing, Type of eternal te TT TAM He BURLEIGH, ener rte Importing Song Birds. From the Portland Oregonian The first lot of imported birds brought to Oregon from Germany by the assccia- tien for the introduction of song birds, ar- rived in 1889, and another lot arrived in the spring of 1892. There were a good many varieties, some of which did not thrive and soon disappeared. Among those whieh became acclimated and have in- creased and spread over the couniry may be mentioned starlings, which nest yearly in many places about the city, on high buildings and church steeples; song thrishes, black thrushes, goldfinches, lin- nets, greenfinches and skylarks. The lat- ter have probably become more numerous than any of the other kinds and are found in large numbers in meadows around Port- land and for some distance out in the country. ES Blood»Nerve Food Wc OBE aa For Weak and Run Down People. | What is It! ious fas laces the essentials of life tha disease, indigestion, high Worry, excestes, ghuse, What it Does by om pare and rich and the digestion perfect—it creates solid tesh and strength. The nerves being made s the brain becomes active aud clear. It re lost vitality, stops all wasting drains and wes either sex, and as a female Price 50c., or five boxes ‘The Dr. Chase Company, | Write Us About _Your Case. 1512 Civstont street, Philadelphia, ndes521 muis- t A cup of comfort, good health and refreshment-- made in a minute-- Vie Absolutely prevents SLIPPING ON Snow, Ice and Asphalt. ‘Lasts as well as Common Shoos, Costs but « Trifle More. aoancy witn J. B. KENDALL, 618 Pa. Ave. N. W. ‘fe27-s, tu&ethi3t