Evening Star Newspaper, November 21, 1896, Page 16

16 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 1896-24 PAGES. \ RY LOOKING FASHION IN FURS Some Points as to How They Are Used in Costumes. COMBINATION OF DIFFERENT VARIETIES Capes Are Narrower and Are Yield- ing to the Jacket. —————— ED GOWNS > - T TRIM M HE POSSESSION of a fur cape this year does not mean quite so much as it did last year or the year before. There is far less fur in it and therefore it is less costiy. This is not merely true of capes made of fur; for the jaunty little billows of superfluous material are growing scantier all the time ree which is a necessary re- it of the diminution of the sleeve. There is notnmg to support the cape which is ™ade to stand out straight over the should- ers, and there is, therefore, no advantage in the extra fullness of last year’s wrap. Some of the new fur pieces suggest the old-fa: ned small dolmans. They do not stand over the shoulders at all, buat Stop at the top of the sleeve, rounding over chest front and ending in long tabs ith as a finish. One of sed with a band of hed with sable tails. of different furs is a © winter fash: A muff is of three kinds of fur. Mufts, by the way, nave taken a new departure which is a decided step in the right direc- t The newest ones are made with wide ruffies arcund the ends, which protect the wrists as well as the hands from the wintry biasts A sixty-nine-dollar muff of this kind is made of Persian lamb, with a ruffle of the same lined with chinchilla. Velvet muffs trimmed with fur and made This combrra feature of t With these wide ruffles are also fashion- able, and much less expe: © than those made entirely of fur. Lace-and rline often take an incon- Eruous pari in the composition of fancy muffs. A velvet one with wide ruffles has nd ruffle of pleated mousseline at Is over the sleeve. This hree ostrich plumes on one eel buckle on the other, thus ng an object which the uninitiated will find it difficult to distinguish from the favorite ture hat” of the season. These muffs are always suspended from the.neck by means of a velvet or double- faced satin ribbon. From Life. She—“It must te a terrible thing to be paralyzed: He—“It is. You feel so mean the next morning. \ GARMENTS THAT WILL COME OUT NEXT THURSDAY. Short collarettes with high collars are being vold, but the woman of limited means would do well to avoid them, as it is not likely they will be fashionable next year. The short capes of grebe’s breast are a popular novelty and are very dressy, but they are so light in color that they are hardly suitable for anything but evening wear. The black velvet capes trimmed with grebe are much more desirable. In fact, trimmed capes are more fash- ionable than the wraps made of one kind of material. Narrow bands of ermine are used on seal, also sable and stone marten. A seal cape has a broad, pointed yoke and an immense flaring collar of ermine, w!th a tiny band of the same white fur around the lower edge. Some of the new capes have yokes of fur with a velvet flounce which is relieved by white lace. Al wraps are furnished with high collars that stand close to the neck at first and then flare out to a point almost even with the shoulders. After all, the most satisfactory wrap of the season ts the loose jacket. Velvet jack- ets that do not fit are extremely dressy. i say do not fit, which means, of course, that they have no waist line, bu! hang locse from the neck. Some of them are made to curve in at the sides, but all have the loose front and Watteau back. This year's cloth coats are nearly all made of smooth material, and the woman who wears a coat of rough or fuzzy tex- ture carries the evidence of thrift upon her back. Most of the new ones are trim- med with scrolls of the same material stitched down at the edges. All are lined with figured taffeta. Winter suits are being made of cloth with fur trimmings. Strips of fur run down the front seams of skirts, and trim the edges of jackets. A handsome velvet suit is trimmed with stone marten. The skirt has a panel of heavy brocade that is bordered with a wide band of fur. The fur also runs around the bottom. An Eton Jacket is bordered all around the edge with fur, and has a broad collar of fur. A vest of the brocade passes under a wide velvet belt. The sleeves are tight-fitting, but flare out In cone shape over the hand. A nar- row strip of fur runs up the outside seam from wrist to shoulder, dividing the shoul- der puff in halves. Trimmed With Fur. A street gown of green cloth made with a jacket is trimmed with braid, and the Jacket fronts are faced with Persian lamb. An elaborate street gown of golden brown Lyons velvet is made with the Russian blouse which was in favor some years ago. It has a vest, collar and belt of ivory-col- ored leather embroidered in delicate shades, gold and spangles. The Russian jacket 13 trimmed with narrow bands of marten, which fur also appears on the skirt. Of all the furs used in the garments worn this year none is so beautiful as the soft, gray chinchilla. Even sable is less expensive. A strip of chinchilla two inch- es wide and one yard jong rells for more than $6, while the same amount of sable is something over $4. Stone marten is perhaps next in favor and is much less expensti Hais trimmed with fur cid not find favor, but this was to be expected, for it has often been tried before. Although many colored felts and velvets are on the market, the prevailing color for the foundation of a hat is black, and mil- linery in general is characterized rather by harmony than by glaring contrasts of in- congruous colors. —__ The Wrong Locality. From the Detroit ‘Tribune. “Did he speak from heart?” “Oh, no! At the top the bottom of his of his lungs.” FOR THOSE WHO GROW ROSES. Séme Varieties of the Tex Thetr Good Point rom the New York Indopendent. The fine hybrid tea rose, Augusta Vic- toria, is classed by one florist as among his “thoroughbreds.” It has a large, dark, glossy green leaf and produces, with aver- age freedom, great blooms which are beau- tiful in the bud, or half blown, or when fully out, with no stamens seen, and their pure white petals just tinted at the center with lemon yellow. A plant of mailing size had in ter weeks from planting two fine blooms, one of eighty-two, and another of ninety-four petals. The blossoms were larger the second year. The bush had grown to be fourteen inches high, and sev- enteen inches across. Nearly every one of the long, clean new shoots had a blossom, one four inches across with 104 petals. (A fair-sized Alfred Colomb has 1 The rose is of German origin, and its only fault is that it is tender and must be taken up over winter. The white La France (hybrid tea) is har- dy with protection. it has a Nght bright green leaf, blooms freely, and as soon after planting as the Victoria. It has about fifty petals of leathery texture, ivory white, lighted at the base by a suggestion of pink and is in form like the pink La France. The blooms are from two and one-half to four inches in diameter. The Meteor (hybrid tea) bloomed in nine weeks from planting. It makes a tall growth, with thick, dark leaves, and 1s sel- dom without a bud, which, however, is long in developing and may fail to open. In coo! weather they are fine, a dark, glowing crimson, full and somewhat quar- tered like some hybrid perpetuals. The first bloom was three and one-quarter inches in diameter and had sixty-four petals. It is hardy with protection. Madam Schwaller (a hybrid tea) bears off the palm for hardiness, vigor, fragrance and freedom of bloom. It has clusters of buds occasionally like the Duchesse de Brabant, which it resembles in its autumn flowers, which are shell-like and delicately Rose and tinted. It sends up a profusion of stiff red stems, growing by the second season to a height of over two feet. The roses are pink, great blushing beauties, with the fra- grance of a June jacaveminot. Its lasting qualities as a cut flower for wearing are wonderful. One blossom of Madam Schwal- ler was worn for several hours on three successive days, reviving perfectly between times when placed in water. The following method of treating roses in winter was recommended to me by a suc- cessful amateur: Pot the roses in October and keep them out of doors, though near the house, until very late, sometimes till December, protecting them from severe frosts. They may freeze without injury INGENIOUS WOMEN Curious Inventions Which They Have Patented. ENEFIT OF MAN Sa Unique Devices for Giving Comfort FOR THE and Saving Labor. AIDS TO FEMININE BEAUTY —— + W OMEN ARE THIN ing harder these days than ever be- fore. They are in- venting things and getting them patent- ed. No longer are their ideas given to the public under the, names of their hus- bands and brothe At the same time it “is noticcable that very many of their inventions, as shown by the fiies of the patent office, are for the use and benefit of men exclusively, and the number and variety of articles patented by the fair sex during the last few years rival those of the men. Among the most unexpected of the wo- men’s inventions is a furnace run by chem- ieals, the latter being used instead of fuel. Some others just as unnatural are foot sup- ports for telegraph poles, a machine that catches the grass when it is cut with a lawn mower, transfer apparatus for trac- tion cable cars and a machine for hanging wall paper, It is easy to imagine that a very delicate Iady who suffers. severely from the cold patented the heat concen- trator, by means of which she ts enabled to turn all the hot air into one room and have that comfortable even if the rest of the house is freezing. It is harder to guess why one of the gentler sex should devote her Ingenuity to contriving an apparatus for sanding railway tracks. For the Comfort of Man. Women are so much interested in the comfort and welfare of men that they have devoted a great deal of time and thought to inventing articles which are entirely for their benefit. For instance, the fair in- ; Yentor of a mustache guard could never be suspected of selfishness. Another femt- nine patentee has an {dea which she calls an “improvement in cigars.” Her notion is that the tobacco shall be soaked In an ex- tract of pine needles. Another thinks that cigars made of eucalyptus leaves leave a clean and pleasant taste in the mouth un- \ike horrid tobacco, These leaves may also he used for pipes or as snuff. They are likewise good for tooth powder or with the addition of suitable fats for soap and candles. Other patents granted to women and especially intended for masculine use are pocket spittoons, mustache spoons, to- bacco bags and cigarette holders. A com- ined cane and camera tripod is a very in- genious contrivance and supposed to save its owner trotihle.. An umbrella that can has a husband The woman detecting wh been opened must } with many times to importance to he Another of the gentler sex must h: been rebbed to think of a device to prevent purses from being s' out of the pocket. Many of the rnore have patented burglar alerms. Genius for Toys, Perhaps the most rational class of in- ventions to engage the efforts of women is that of toys. There is no conceivable ar- ticle tor the amusement of children that they have not thought of. One novel idea is for a card game that helps the player s out .ate at night. nted a means for led envelcpes have ve had hers t ke it scem of to | na language, thus combining work with pleasure. A very pretty notion is for a sk’pping rope that is musical, playing a tune as the children jum But the real feminine mind takes more delight in plan- ning dolls than in anything else. Everything in connection with the art of sewing has rece'ved unlimited attention |trcm “women. Sewirg machines without number have been patented and all sorts of attachments for them have been devised. One lazy fair ore has originated a motor to run her machine. thus saving herself all labor. A very useful contrivance is a thread-cutting arrangement to be attach- ed to thimbles. Odd Devices, Among other odd or otherwise interest- ing inventions by women are an electrical head clamp for relleving pain, a carriag» SKETCHED AT AN AFTERNOON TEA. SEEN AT A TEA Some of the Gowns Worn and How They Looked, ABOUT THE COSMETICS OF CLOTHING Late Ideas of Women’s Wear and What They Are. THRE TIGHT ——— SLEEVE Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, November 18, 1896. T WAS A QUAINT Jez Puritan - like gown the hostess wore as she poured the ica and looked about smiling and with a litle flutter with only one wheel, an egg tester, a smoke stack for locomotives, balcony, an elevated railway, a submarine telescope and lamp combined, a system of Eyrctechnic night signals and a table to attach to the berths of vessels. The in- stinct of the gentler sex for economy 1s illustrated by a combined school desk and organ, a sofa that can be turned into a bathtub, a canteen and lunch box, a table that can be converte a combined collar and tie, a door plate that is at the same time a card receiver, a lantern that can be turned into a dinner pail, a combined paperweight, calendar be turned into 'a cine when the rain stops i3 an addition'to‘dudery. Lots of ideas for keeping pantaloons in shape have been thought of by’ clever fair ones. They have also devised ‘machines for making cigar- ettes. For Fire and Travel. Women are very nervous and seem to especially dread being burned up, as is shown by the fact that they have taken out more patents for 'ftre escapes than for any other one article., One of the most novel of these ideas is for a spring bed that can be converted at a moment's notice into a fire escape. A thermometer tiat fs af the same time a fire alarm Is very igfelpous. Another feminine notion is ta haves the doors and shutters made of fire-proot ‘ma- terial, so that even if the house were burn- ing there would be a good chance to get out. + 5 It is very evident that women “have ex- perienced gréat discomfort while travel- ing, as the number of irunks they have patented will testify. One of the most in- gerious of these can be turned, when de- sired, into a bureau or a writiag table. An- other is a combined trunk and bed. The fair inventor of this latter raust have suf- fered much to have thought of this con- trivance. Others who have been crowded for room have devised trunks that fold themselves automatically. A most novel idea is for a convertible or combined bath- tub and traveling bag. For the Relief of Housekeepers. Housekeepers suffer more annoyance from insects than from any other evil they have to contend wi:, so it is not surprising that they have devoted much attention to ways and means of getting rid of them. One woman has invented a device to protect chairs and tables from crawling bugs. Of course, if they cannot walk up the iegs of the furniture the latter is safe from them. Somebody eise has patented an in- sect guard for doors, her idea being to keep them out entirely. Another has pat- ented a vermin trap. Many novel schemes for fly traps have fair originators. A very humane woman has devised a net to pro- tect horses from flies. Qnly those who have been tortured by the pests can appre- ciate a mosquito cap for out of doors which and are less likely after it to be troubled with insects. Winter them in the cellar until February, after which keep them in a rather cool room. At the Hospital. From Life. Assistant (to House Physician)—“We have just received an aeronaut who fell 2,000 feet and a foot ball player who got tangled up in a rush. I am the only docior who is not engaged. Which shall I attend to first?” y House Physician (impatiently)—“I have often told you that in a case like this you should first attend the man who is most seriously injured. Look after the foot ball player, of course. The balloon man can wait.” HIS EXPERIENCE. aE LAN => will fold up and go in the pocket, being thus easily carried about and always ready for use. Bicycle Patents. ‘That craze of the day, the bicycle, has not been neglected by the women inventors. Patents have been granted to them for almost all parts of wheels. Several fair riders have exerted all their ingenuity in trying to devise comfortable sad:lles. Oth- ers have tried their hand in making lucks. ‘They have also made experiments in pneu- matic tires. The luggage carrier for ve- locipedes was the idea. But, of course, they have devoted more attention to bicy- cle garments than to anything else in con- nection with the wheel. ‘Trousers that look like skirts appear to be their most particu- lar ambition. Much thought has been expended by the women inventors of our country to things to make life for the afflicted more endura- ble. One has patented a typewriter for the blind. Another has made a slate for the blind, by which they can tell what they are writing as they put it down. An at- tachment for railway cars which deadens the sound is undoubtedly for the benefit of nervous people. For any one who has no hands a rocking chair with a fan attached to it which will work as the chair rocks would be invaluable. A sunshade for horses is most, humane. Really Feminine. The most strictly feminine articles de- vised by women are for the enhancement of beauty. Therd is Hothing that can add to their attractiveness that they have not thought of. The most ambitious of these is an instrumgnt {hat is supposed to re- Store facial Symmetry. Anypody with crooked features who wears this apparatus persistently enough will be rewarded by their becoming straight. If one has simply a bad complexion, there are innumerable remedies, A mask, to be worn at night is supposed to; be, most effective. A hy- gienic apparatyis for steaming the face is greatly penerigal #8 is also a vapor face bath. Then, of coyrse, there are all sorts of cosmetics. Some women's hands are their special pride, so one iayented what she calls a “hand protecior.’;, ‘This enables the own. er to work without disfiguring those useful members. We should all have tapering fingers, and if nature has not bestowed them upon us we can cultivate them arti- ficially. The apparatus required for this is very simple and can be worn at night. It compresses the ends of the tingers. A cap for keeping the ears close to ithe head is another important beautifier, as nothing is more hideous than ears that stand out. Must Have Had Experience. It is only too evident that the inventor of & combined beer and water cvoler likes to drink the wicked malt beverage herself. Probably the woman who thinks that she had discovered a method for the purifica- tion of alcoholic liquids will not be thanked by the men. Undoubtedly the criginator of the device for lowering keys from windows end musical watcn, a baby tender that is also a erib and a railway chair and crosstie combined, HOUSEH a OLD HINTS A real quick dish for unexpected com- pany can be made of the omnipresent egg. Boil half a dozen—less or more—for ten minutes, then throw them into cold water for one minute, after which remove the shells and put in hot water again. Make a cream grav . butter, and flour ard season well. Halve the eggs and pour over that. If, instead of sitting idly down, to mourn over dead hopes, we would apply ourselves vigorously to the nearest duty, the skies would grow brighter for everybody. It does not help the dead, and it does depress the living, to mourn inconsolably for those who must be better off than we are. Af- ter death intervenes our whole duty is to the living. It is pure selfishness that would insist on anything else. Undoubtedly, bad food is at the bottom of any amount of peevishness, hot temper, family dispute, weak will power, vitiated tastes, bad morals and general viciousness. A suet pudding is an excellent thing to have on hand during cold weather. It keeps indefinitely, and by heating just be- fore using is always perfect!y fresh. This is a tried and true recipe. One-half cup of clean, white suet chopped fine, one cup of raisins, seeded and choppe aif; one cup of Orleans molas of sour in S, one Cc! milk. Stir into one pint of flour, two tea- spoonfuls of soda, and after siirring all the other ingredients together, flour and stir vigorously ull it foams; then add more flour and a teaspoonful of salt and stir till the batter is stiff. Your judg- ment will tell when you have flour enough. A teaspoonful of ground cloves, cianamon, mace and nutmeg will improve it. Pour in a well-buttered tin pail, cover and set in a covered kettle of boiling water to steam for three hours. Leave at leasi five inches in the pail for the pudding to swell. Slice when cold and set in the oven about ten minutes and serve with hard or soft sauce. “Perfectly lovely” is worn threadbare. It is applied to anything and everything. It seems to stand instead of ideas, of senti- ment, of appreciation and of common sense. Girls, for the sake of the unities, stop using it. Good talkers never fail to interest and to charm, but when a girl's ideas of the eternal fitness of things can be expressed in these words—“perfectly lovely” or “perfectly horrid”—her mind is narrow, shallow and simple. To remove insects from the ear pour warm water or warm lard or oil into the ear and the bug will float to the surface. Then throw the head over and let it all Tun out. Don’t go picking round with a probe or you will ruin the drum of the ear. It is mighty poor economy to throw away cold baked potatoes. Peel them as soon as the meal is over, and they are just as good for all second-dish purposes as any cooked potato. They are very nice cut { nsmall cubes, scalded in milk, which is thickened and seasoned with butter, salt and pepper, just before serving. The woman who hasn‘t two or three nice, smooth, thick-lipped oyster shells about her kitchen, with which to scrape skillet and kettles and pans, is behind the times. An iron ring dishcloth is nice for this, but it costs money and is not one whit better than the oyster shells. Tapioca pudding is a delicious dish, ap- petizing and digestible, much to be pre- ferred to pastry desserts. Soak one cup of tapioca over night in three cups of cold water, then cook in a double boiler for half an hour. Butter a big baking dish and put in it two quarts of very tart appies, peeled and quartered. Stir into the tapioca one cup of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and half a cup of water. Pour over the apples and put to bake. When half done put little specks of butter all over the top; sprinkle with a tablespoonful of sugar and a bit of grated nutmeg, and put back to brown. It will not need a sauce, though some like to serve it with cream or butter and sugar sauce. Never try to wear a shoe tco small, or that does not fit when you first put it on; there is no misery more nearly distracting than a shoe that hurts the foot. Never let your shoes get hard and dry; don’t let them run over; don’t let the heels run down; don’t dry a wet shoe till you have rubbed it well with a fiannel cloth, then with vaseline. Never put near the stove. Half a peck of oats, kept in a small box, will be the very cheapest and best foot form for a wet shoe. Fill the shoe and shake the oats down, after having rubbed and oiled it, and set in a dry place to dry gradually. When dry pour the oats back for further use. Do not “black upon blacking” more than a week ata time. Take a wet rag and wash the shoe at least once a week, and oll over night to keep in good condition. Never handle patent leather until you have warmed it. Never wear “rubbers” with good shoes. Put on old shoes in wet weather. There is no part of the apparel of a lady or gentleman which should be more scrupulously neat, or that is so often scandalously neglected. portable } into a lunch basket, | add the j of pleasurable ex- clement at the friends she had not Seri Since early sum- mer. One's holidays may cul with Au- gust, but one’s “afternoons” hardly Thi giving pics are bak- id has waged so vigorously almost needs a reintroduction in June. 2: unlin tb: nd the w one that to those from whom one parted Their faces are new, their frocks are new and their thoughts are new, and so tongues and eyes are busy at these informal No- vember receptions. It came over in the Mayflower,” the hostess says as a young girl relieves her at the tea pouring, and she gets a chance to show her summer tinc—a tray of an- | tique shape, but newly and too obviously Japann And then the eyes wander from the petty bit of ancientry to the pret- ty Priscilla gown, and a suggestion of con- ion between them crops up in the mind. ‘This little touch of New Engiandism is one of the recurring fads of the Thanksgiving season, and it doesn’t go badly when it takes shape in dark green taffeta, flowered eaintily with white and pale primrose yel- low. “The graceful princess rob= is cut out at the throat and filled in with cream white crepe de chine. Then comes the touch of New Englandism aforesaid. About the shoulders is thrown a creain white | fichu, crossing at the waist under a green ribbon bo: Broad lace edges it and hangs in a flounce over the shoulders. The effect is old enough 1o be coquettish and new enough to be smart, and to watch the be “copy cats” to think imita when an idea so worthy of perp. lying around. Ruf of Lace. The ends of the fichu are caught upon the hips at either side. The sleeves are loose puffs, with wide lace frills under a | Tibbon band, half way between wrist and elbow. Folds of crepe de chine make the standing collar with a ruff of lace, taffeta turning over above. of this sort, not based on sa virtue uation is edged than a thrown about withoui tion in the stores. tray, as it goes about from hand to hand, with a chorus of admiring com- ment during the tea drinking, comes to @ pause in the lap of a woman with long, slel arms. Then the battery of ¢ begins firing again—a salute of ad ion (not so rare among women as some people think), for the bravery of a girl who has dared to be a Daniel for the sake of loy- alty to a trying style. The Daniel gown is a shot siik, flashing cop er and black gleams. The skirt is | full and plain, with hint of a iittle black edge under the hem. The blouse bodice is of copper-colored crepe de chine, laid in fine accordion vieats from neck to wris Over this run bretelles of black silk p: sementerie, with trellis work of pass menterie bands covering the front, and just hinting at the deep nasturtium silk that lines them. Double flounces of black lace make capes upon the shoulders, and supply the standing neck ruche. A draped sash of black lace with a big bow in front ishes the waist. The Tight Sleeves. And now for the clement of daring. The girl is tall and very slender. The accordion-pleated blouse gives the neejed fullness to her figure, but when it comes to her arms she has attempted no disguise. These members are long and no: piump. Fashion does not command the skin~ sleeve, but she subtly distinguishes its wearer. Very well; this girl braves the lions to earn that sweet distinction. From shoulder to wrist her sleeves are of crepe de chine, laid in fine tucks and barred with passementerie treliis work, to be sure, but so tight that to bend the arms would seem to be a task of some delicacy. At the wrists narrow black lace ruchcs flare. And the effect? Rather good on the whole. The lions did not eat Daniel. It’s not usualiy safe to fly in the face of mani- fest propriety, but when one is young and has a touch of the picturesque the im- proper decomes plainly proper once in a while. This girl gete someting of a Bernhardt effect, of Bernhardt with long gloves. And so the tea drinkers fire their salutes of admiration, but not ‘copy cats” this time. Oh, no. Women know when a dress note is for the public good and when it is simply for the behoof of an individual. “I never saw a girl with whom dress could make so much difference,” plump, handsome matron, spe young woman off in a corner. is positively pretty this afternoon.” There is a certain implication that girl in question is not always pret so the focus of attention is sh ight the and from the tight-sleeved woman to her compelied beauty out of dou! tions. ho has condi- ful A Color Result. The girl in the corner has a white skin. Colorless it must be ordinarily, and with something of the pallor of ill health, rather than the clear paleness natural to some healthy complexions. There is a pain line, too, between the brows. And yet this af- ternoon there is the most delicate evanes- cent blush of pink upon the cheeks, and color and animation have made attractive- ress and almost beauty. The girl's critic understands nothing clearly but the result. And yet the ques- tion how the girl has achieved color is the most interesting one suggested by the situ- ation. It’s not the flush of excitement, for looks cast at it is to know that there will | it shows on the surface } | is ne d shining through from ow. She didn’t et it cut of a box, for no box color is so ethereal That,” says a looks as it she might i papers at w n’s case of the cosmetics of clothes.” not good form costume at an “2 two or three who feel ther draw aside and talk privat whose gifts in gowning are making them forget their manners conscious of the st is making, a simple gown of old rose silk, shot with The skirt calls for no particular at- Or, rather, its plain y fon of hang defies words. Russian is of old y sparingly eper rose and green, and is p! ler a belt of deep old rose vely has shot silk slee puffed he shoul- der. tight for the length of the arm and ending in lace frills. It has a yoke of the brocade finished with a wide band of shot slik. This yoke is pointed in front, and is square over the shoulders. The blouse has @ standing collar, showing a band of old Tore velvet inside, and bows of old rose be- hind. wears, only half un- cnoveh green, tention Dress the Magician. This dress is the magician. How has it werked Its wonders? In the first place, the green in silk and brocade is entirely sub- ordirate. It does not show as green at all Its office is to tone the old rose and give it ® peculiar blush or bloom of the exact shade of pink that shows in the lips of the xirl. One talks of red lips, but pale blondes, especially when invalids, have pink lips of- tener. Now it is a secret that said pale blondes would do well to learn and profit by that if the prevailing shade of the dress agrees as exactly as fabric can with flesh with the color of the lips, the dress will fect upon the cheeks Just the tone of co properly belonging to the complexion. Lips cheeks and eyes are meant to have a cor- |respondence, and a color that wars with | the lips will give the face shades that are unbecoming. That is where paint blunders it looks unnatural because it is almost rever in the right sequence of tones. So it is not that the pale girl is wearing pink but that she has cunaingly maneuvered it is not that the pale girl is wearing pink, for her compleaicn. She has the reward jot her toil. Or perhaps it is an instinct | with her. This is the complexion cosme:ics which the woman's club is discussing. But the rooms are filling, and the swish of skirts and th buzz of ues put an end to such detailed dissec th of one’s fellow woman. Under the portieres stands a slight, crect figure, t > doesn’t ner to study or to speculate about, but can accept without question as a fine type of the well-dressed city woman. Her gown of steel gray whipcord is corre to the hour and the minuce, without trying to run ahead of time and into as yet un- evolved futurities. It is cut after the prin- cess model, but with the bare look of that a trying style relieved and softened black velvet sash and velve! rations. At the bottom of bread band of black velvet of ecru lace turnin; by waist dec. skirt is a with a thread z over its upper edge. The bodice is slightly full in front, with square revers of lace-bordered velvet acress the shoulders, extending in pointed lapels to the waist line. The sleeves are jtight, but not skin-tight, with moderate | fullness at the top, and cuffs of velvet and | lace for wrist finish. A velvet stock colla with rosette at the back, a handke of of fine ecru lace pendent from the and a fanciful toque of velvet, jet and feathers finish an uncommoniy well turned out costume. Then the Pinid, A young woman in a plaid waist brings a breath of fresh air with her as she en- ters. She walks with a quic if the world were her friex: ty, and she beautifies her waist > waist is pretty and it beautifies her. It is a neat | little silk bodice, plaided of y colors so blended as to escaps the condemnatioa much heard this autumn, that of being j bizarre. It has a yoke and collar of fawn j¥elvet, and is worn with a fawn-colored cloth skirt and a felt hat of the same | trimme | with black ostrich plumes A girl in a cape breaks her wafers gin- gerly. Her gloves are tight and it spoi | the ‘grace of her hands. But few of the | women rotice such detail. They are look- {ing at the odd little cape of black vel jcovered, after the mode of the moment, with very heavy lace, and cut in deep points, front, back and shoulders, A deep pleating of Diack silk fills out the shape of the cape, and a thick ruche makes it warm and dainty at the neck. It is worn with a picture hat of black velvet, roses and plumes, And the dusk comes on and the shaded Jamps burn brighter and the heat and the perfume and the soft laughter are as they have been and wili be. N OSBORN. From the Chicago Record. “Dickie, ain't it_ queer that little n bies allus comes dow: knows Opening Sale Of w ba- that janitors don’t Japanese Goods, Monday and Tuesday, Nov. 23 and 24, ’96. SOUVENIR PRES! TO “ERY PURCHAS We extend an earnest in- vitation for your inspection of our complete stock, and, with or without reference to purchasing, you will always be cordially welcomed. °9 Importers of Japanese Goods, 519 11th St. N.W.,Near F St. Branch of Atlantic City, N. J. BRANCHES—Philadelphia, Pa.; Asbury Park, N. 3., cui Toronte, Canada, we20-2t