Evening Star Newspaper, October 24, 1896, Page 20

20 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 24, ares er Ase as ‘ 1896-TWENTY-FOUR PAGES, WHAT IS SEEN IN NEW YORK BY THE WOMAN WHO LOOKS. HAS HAD ITS DAY The Tiny Muff; but Big Designs in Far Are the Style. FROM PARIS WINTER GARMENT Skirts Are Not Much More Than Half as Wide. BOLERO AND ETON The Evening Star. ¥ YORK, October 21, 1806. HEN THE MEL- that painted the woods so little while ago have faded into a dirty yellow and the rustling leaves lie knee deep on the ground, the winter styles are pretty well prefigured in those of middle autumn, and character of the sea- son Hes stamped up- on it for each to read. A woman always looks first at a woman's kat. The woman who looks will see this year small and medium sizes in the decided majority, although she may hear disquiet- ing rumors of larger sizes and showier shapes impending. Three out of five have the high, square piquant crowns which above most faces look so charming. The woman who looks sees the changes rung on felt and velvet, plumage, ribbons, Correspondence « chenille, beading, jewelry and bits of em- broidery. She sees high straight crowns, bell crowns and flat brims ana dipping and waving brims. She sees—oh, so many hats in poll parret tints of russet and vivid green, ana notes that green in darker, suberer shades is certainly the favorite peece de resistance of midautumn millinery. The woman who looks has seen some hats end bonnets which are really novel. A Rembraudtesque model with an old gold velvet crown and crumpled tobacco tint brim, falling over the right ear and adorned with six black ostrich feathers and steel buckies, was the most odd and effective of these. ‘A toque in vivid red like an oriole, made of chenille trimmed with red rosettes with steel buckle centers, and further decked with three tall tulip bows of red velvet, vas varied, as if by charred coals showing through the heart of a fire, by little black satin rosettes with green hearts—never mind th> botany—on the right side. Some Effective Designs. A black velvet hat was trimmed with two twists of salmon-colored silk about the crown, passing through jet hoops with rhinestone ornaments. And there were black ostrich plumes, almost, of course, to carry out the idea. Charming enough was a black velvet hat whose crown was topped with upright staves of black quilling and hooped in with three strips of white silk, caught at the bows on the left with steel ornaments. Two white ostrich plumes vied in unequal con- test with four black ones above It, and a cachepeigne of greenery, yallery roses re- posed beneath the brim. ‘A gray felt hat bound with silk—two rib- bons encircling the crown and forming rosettes on the side—one bronze, one spot- ted cream—was adorned with one white plume end one black and a huge windmiil ow of the contrasting ribbons in front. Simplest of all, and the only one I men- tion in whose trimming a bird was em- ployed, was a hat of biege felt bound with light brown chenille and trimmed with a broad chenille ribbon of the same shade about the crown. A blackbird writhed in pain down the left side. The milliners add insult to his injury by calling him a “fancy blackbir¢ I suppose that velvet is after all the fa- vorite material for hats of note. A purple velvet hat with a wide brim turned slightly up at the sides, and with a high bell ton crown trimmed with three bias bands of the velvet caught in front with small steel buckles; draped as to its brim with. white duchess lace and marked at its back with the “ich den” crest in black and white tips, 1s one of the “smartest” models siraight from the Paris ateliers. An Oddity in Millinery. Another oddity in millinery is shown, which will be quite general, in a very small bonnet made of velvet covered with a net- work of tinseled leaves. But too long have I dwelt upon the ever- interesting topic, to a woman, of millinery. Let me hasten to add that the tiny muff = = has had its day. This year the woman who looks at furs sees nothing but enormous mufts of fur with a fluting of the fur at each end lined with brilliant shades. She sees also feather muffs with ruffles of chif- fon. Not new at all, she sees feather boas, which were fairly common last winter. Newest of all she sees capes made entirely of black or white ostrich plumes, in length reaching about to the waist. These plumed capes are, perhaps, the highest novelty of the season. Before the winter is over we may reasonably expect to see them made in harlequin fashion with white and black plumes intermingled. Better, I should say, at least, more likely to be permanently modish than the plumed capes are the long coats lined with fur and reaching quite to the bottom of the dress, robed in which a woman of tall and stately form locks indeed regal. One of the most beautiful coats which I have seen, is of dark blue ladies’ cloth with a cape embroid- ered with black braid. The cape, like the coat, is edged and lined with Persian lamb. For tkeater or evening wear there are very tiny shoulder capes. Some of them are extremely short, so short as to sug- gest doubt of their possessing any use for Purposes of warmth, but that’s nothing. Among the prettiest of them are those made in white accordion plaited chiffon, trimmed with tiny bands of black velvet, two or three, or four. On the shoulders of one of these I saw three large loops of heliotrope velvet ribbon, whose long ends dropped quite to the waist on each side of the front, and were caught in the middle with big rhinestone buckles. In Place of the Bloomer. Even in Paris the bicycle bloomer has scen its best days. This is an item less interesting than it might have been in the spring, yet why? Surely, the pleasant days of late fall and early winter are better suit- ed to do out-of-door exercise than the ex- treme heat of midsummer. The Parisian skirt, however, which takes the place of the bloomer, or rather supplements it, is of truly Gallic levity and brevity, reaching only about three inches below the knee and being memorable for its width and full- ness. From Paris, too, comes hints of the latest fashion for winter garments. These notes and hints are all of coats cut with tight sack-backs, whether the fronts be loose and Watteauish or otherwise. Skirts are not much more than half as wide as they were, perhaps, a couple of years ago; 3% yards around the hem at the bottom and with no godet at the side, is new the correct proportion. There is no wane of the popularity of the jacket, bolero and Eton, still very short and worn in self colors over vests and blouses of fleecy texture and light tints. The wide corselet belt is as much in favor as is the pearl neck chain, only the pearls are reserved for the few who can afford them. Any one can have a belt. An od4 detail of the Paris fashions of the Present autumn is the common custom of wearing drab cloth sack-back coats with skirts of entirely different hue, or light brown coats over dark green, or other cembinations of entirely different tints, of which the lighter is always reserved for the coat. A skirt trimming which will not be relished by stout women is a heavily stitched, nine-inch hem with five rows of braid about the bottom of the skirt. Except in coats, where the retention of fairly generous-sized sleeves is desirable, they are much smaller than they have beer And from England there comes as a stylish novelty a white mackintosh coat from three-quarters to full length, close fitting in the back, and with full blouse sleeves to accommodate any form of gar- ment or wrap. ELLEN OSBORN. — The Faith Cure in Gardening. From tke Chicago Record. William F. Gurley, a young Nebraska orator, who has been tmported into Chicago for the purpose of cutting the sinews of and otherwise crippling the silver vote, la- bored with the enemy in North Clark street last night. Mr. Gurley is a winning orator of convincing avoirdupois, and he tells a &00d story well. One of the stories which he told, not at the meeting where shouts of acclamation filled the air, but at the res- taurant dinner which preceded it, was a rarrative of Christian science.. The tale is that of a society young woman deeply im- bued with the Christian science theory. Sickness, she insists, is simply a belief, and not @ condition. Headache 1s a theory and not an actuality in her eyes. A distempered liver 1s no more than a dislocated faith. Rheumatism is a side-tracked guess. In- ceed, nothing which is evil really exists—it is orlly assumed to be. Mr. Gurley called at the house of this cheerful woman, to whom meditation is medicine, a few day ago, and discovered her fluttering among her potted plants and flowers in the big parlor window. Asking concerning the well-being of her ficral pets, Mr. Gurley received this dis- tinctly scientific answer: “Oh. I am very much distressed. I am afraid my flowers have a belief in bugs.” —_—_-+- _____ Never Got So Far. From Texas Siftings. “You say that you have played Mac- beth?” said a New York theatrical man- ager to an applicant for a position. “I have acted the role of Mazbeth four- teen times.” “Well, let to Macduff.” “Oh, I never got so far as that dience always made me quit || to that part. e hear you repeat his defiance The au- fore I got HOUSEHOLD HINTS “‘Well-fed men are seldom drunkards,” a nice old lady once said. By that she did not mean that rich viands in quantity kept men from being drunkards, but that plain, wholesome food, well cooked, would satisfy the cravings of the stomach, and a man won't want to drink “spirits.” There is no “luck” in housekeeping, and the woman who trusts to. the fickle god to help her out will get herself into trouble speedily. Method will accomplish much for @ weak woman, but haphazard housekeep- ing will wear out the nerves of the strong- est woman living. It means waste and slatternly work and unhappiness for all concerned. The girl who takes as much pride in learning to dust a room properly as she does in learning to draw, who broiis a steak with the same nicety she embroiders a rosebud, who makes coffee as carefully as as she crochets, is the girl who will make the economical, cheery wife, loving mother and delightful companion. It is not a crime to know how to keep house. Every girl ex- pects to have a home of her own some day, yet the girl und her mother each act as though there was no such thing as a ser- vantless home, and victuals grew on bushes, ready for the picking. When girls learn how scandalously divorces have in- creased in the last six years, perhaps they will heed the lesson these unhappy homes teach, and study human nature and home relations a little more. When buying new furniture for the home, pass by the ornate cheap imitations, unless your purse is wide and deep, and pay a little more for well-made, substantial, hard- wood articles that will wear. Buy not quite so much; have it good, and add to it, piece by piece. You will not reg¥et your foresight. Remember that a small figured carpet, or one with only a suggestion of a figure, is best for the small room, or plainly furnish- ed one. Large figures are apt to quarrel with everything around. In large cities little children are often lost, but a little precaution would save lots of worry and many tears. Write the full name and address and put it in the child’s hat or cap. Some people put a card on a string about a child’s neck inside its dress, on which is the name and address, and let it wear it all the time. The very best plan is to teach a child to say its full name and address just as soon as it can talk. It is said that oilcloths are made softer and much more durable by giving them two coats of linseed oil with a brush, and when that is thoroughly dry, adding a coat of varnish. Never wash an oilcloth with lye, or any such cleansing fluid; it eats the life out of it. Go over it first with a flannel cloth and hot, clean water. Then follow with a bath of skim milk, or just skim milk alone, if not too much soiled. This will keep the cloth new a long time. Papered walls, if not too badly soiled, may be cleaned by cutting a loaf of day-old bread in quarters and using as a rubber after the walls have been thoroughly dust- ed. Dry cornmeal rubbed on with a cloth will clean them well, also. If the light in the coal ofl lamp burns dimly you can be sure the wick or the burner is at fault; if the wick is dark and clogged it needs washing. If it {s clean, then the burner is gummed up and needs. scrubbing in soap and ammonia, or you will have a smoky, bad-smelling lamp. A cement of ashes, salt and water 1s ex- cellent for filling the cracks of stoves. It isn’t a good plan to scour tin ware too much, as it wears the tin off. If tins are weshed in hot soapy water,rinsed and prop- erly dried, they will never need scouring. Keep tea and coffee in close bottles or canisters, and keep them by themselves, as their odors will taint bread, meat, butter end milk. When a cork is larger than you need and is hard, too, drop it in boiling water and it will soften, so that it can be used. Save all the corks in a box, and when you have a handful scrub them, boil awhile in clear water, then dry and put away. Never use a cork until it has been cleaned, unless you now its latest use. People are often poi- soned by “cork” carelessness. If you want to keep oranges or lemons some time, wrap them carefully in tissue paper and lay away where they will be un- ¢isturbed. os To remove a glass stopper run a lighted match around the neck of the bottle, or “sew'’ a stout cord around it two or three times. These failing, apply a cloth dipped in hot water. Never pour cabbage water down a drain. The boiled cabbage scent if the house is bad enough, but the water poured down the drain will leave the odor with you for a month. —— Floating Debts That Pay. From the New York Herald. “Strange fellow, that Jenkins.” “In what particular?” “Well, his income is mostly derived from his floating debts.” “How do you make that out?” “Easy enough. From mortgages he holds for advances to owners of sailing vessels.” ‘Why, “No. other dear, what has happened, a cable car T've just been to a bargain-counter sale where EVENING.-GOWNS A Diffioulty “That ‘is Found in the ‘Small .Sigov st3t VELVET, LACE "AND . TRIMMINGS Unique ‘and’ QuaiptCostumes De- ys0% signed for the ‘Ball Room. ecu SOME FASHION NOTES f LTHOUGH Wo- A™= ig usually cred- ited. with the fault -of ver solicitude for her appearance at all times, there is one occasion when ali her energies are centered upon carry- ing out her desire to look her best. This is nbt, 28 one might suppbse, the celebra- Hon of her marriage, -at which time she ts, of course, anxious to look well; but, at the wedding, it goes without saying that the corquest has been made, whereas no one knows what victim may present himself to be vanquished at an evening party or dance. Hence, tt is at the evening party that she wants to make the most favor- able impression, and because {1 is here that she can best throw off the trammels of unbecoming fashions,’ which are sometimes a necessity to the street gown, it is a no- ticeable fact that women do usually appeir at their best in evening dress. Evening gowns are not’ nearly a0 conven- onal and so stifly patterned sfter. the pre- valling features of feshion as are the gowns which are worn on other‘occasions, and, thecefore, indjvidual ‘taste ‘and natu- ral outlines can be much more freely con- sulted. 5 ak > However, there are — few general lines which servé to guide the designer of even- lug dresses, and whtch mark a dress as a gewn of the present ‘season. One of the chief difficulties which the designer had to meet this year was the necessity of reconciling the undraped arm of the even- ing dress with the small sleeve. The smail puff which 1s compensated by trimming below the. elbow in the case of a day gown looks very scant and inade- quate by itself, and requires some other device to supplement its width. The wide effect is obtained, however, in various ways. A beautiful ‘dress which was evidently this year's creation, was ‘orn by @ very young girl at a recent col- lege hop. 3reen silk tarlalan over nile green sifk, wos the beautiful material, and perhaps it was rather elaborate for go young a girl, but it was the “Freghmen. reception,” and her first appearance, atyjan evening’ func- tion among her collegg mates, and she didn’t want to slight ¢he occasion. The skirt had no trimming, and the bodice was simply shirred, straight, acrors the front and back, leaving the neck slightly low in front, and quite low gn jhe shoulders. Im- mense revers trimmed with bands of in- sertion, were set just, in front of each arm, and were wired to stand:out past the arms as far as the last year'ssleeve puffs would reach. These revers, were lost at the wats underneath a, wide ;belt, of maure velvet laid In four folds. 5, in For Evening “Wear. Another very beaytiful. evening dress, which appeared, not at so smell an affair as a freshman recepfion,‘but ab.ene of the formal fraternity balls Which’'are another unique feature of cgflege Ife, was made of salmon-colored antique silk. The skirt had a wide §@ungerof accordion pleating at the bottom, headed ‘with three rows of silk ruching at evénd@istances apart. The low bodice of brocaded silk had thé appearance of having been slashed dowy\the middle nearly @@ the waist, and tu@Pdyback in small revers atthe‘ top, the being filled in with Bufplice folds ,o8 'satmon-col- ored mousgsetifies Undernd&titithe revers and across’ the pogjce to the Winder arm seam were a cqufie of floynces' of mousse- line. Two wide ounces, transparent enough tq,#tow the arm through, stood out almost gtgaight from the shoulders like epaulets” ‘The hack repeated the same trining. ‘With this gown were worn salmon-colored gloves and a feather fan. Flowers are being very generally used on evening dresses, though more for matrons than very young girls. A reception gown of black velvet worn by a lady who had been six years a matron, had a wreath of full blown pink roses around the sleeve puffs, with a couple more nestled in be- tween the wing-like lace epaulets at the shoulder. A drapery of Brussels lace—not a flounce—trimmed the decolletage and fel) in a cascade down the front. The skirt and the lower part of the bodice were trimmed with jet spangles. ‘The sleeve puffs were quite small in comparison with those of last year, and looked very o¢d after so long a season ef puffs as large as the body between them. The Elizabeth Collar. ‘The Elizabethan collar makes a very stately addition to an evening dress. It also adds to one’s shoulder circumference. A very unlque costume, designed by Fe- ix for the opening bal of the New York season, is an artistie combination of dainty colors which harmonize so well that one does not realize there are so many. The skirt is made of mauve silk embroidered at the bottom of the front with a design in the same shades, and finishei with a nar- row flounce of yellow gauze. The bodice is tight fitting and made of plum-colored vel- vet. A yellow gauze sash drapery caught at each side of the bust with bunches of flowers, passes around tbe bodice diagon- ally, is draped in a loop on one hip and then knots loosely across the front of the skirt, hanging in long ends to the bottom. The Elizabethan, or Stvart collar ts made of stiffened lace—also the revers that fold back over the pleated. mauve and yellow flounces, that form the epaulets. In general, the skirts of evening dresses are made of heavy silk or satin. Silk, bro- caded in large figures closely woven, is very fashionable, and the most. elegant trimmings are velvet and lace, with a little gauz2 and jeweled trimming by way of variety. S A quaint ball dress, made of heavy old rose damasse silk, has a very wide skirt which opens over an apron front of green velvet that is edged with a cascade of Brussels lace. The belt,.made ,of folds of green velvet, is so wide that it forms near- ly the whole of the; bodice.,.It is trimmed in front with thregs large paste buttons. Above the belt, or gird, the brocade. is draped over the bust! belw@ caught in front by a large emerald bycklf The back of the bodice is close fittipg enfen velvet, edged at the neck with ssrughing of lace that extends around the top of the velvet sleeve puffs to the drapery inafront. A:-second row of the ruching:!s added on the puffs to give the long. effecte-on the shoulder which fashion stiil.;eangsions, and which the fashionable woman !8 so loth to give up. Ve 28 : Fashion Notes. Although the emptre fan still continues in favor, nothing 1s Auft¢ equal in elegance to the large, swaying fan, of ostrich plumes. Feather ornamentsrare; also worn in the hatr. eat One could Write a‘whdje chapter on. the new slippera. They. are,more elaborately trimmed than ever before, Evening. gloves are_longer than they were last season, owing to the absence of large puffs. The newest gloves for street wear have tight gauntlets of a contrasting shade of kid, which fold down tight around the top of the glove when one has on long sleeves, or can be turned back to conceal that bare strip of wrist between the ordinary glove and the shorter sleeve. This is.a very clever invention and is sure to be popular. ————__ ‘Winning More Than a Name for Her- self. From Truth. Dot Gust back from Europe)—“Well, pop, I’m engaged to seven dukes, a marquis, eleven counts and nine grandees of the first class.” Pop—“What? !?7 ! 2? 1 7” Dot—“Oh, it’s all one fellow. He's a you know.” ART AND ARTISTS/WRAPS FOR CHILDREN t the exhibition of the Western Penn- sylvania Exposition Society, which is now in progress at Pittsburg, a number of the local artists are represented. Mr. Richard N. Brooke shows two pictures, “The Halt at the Pool” and also his “Return of the Flock.” Mr. R. LeGrand Johnston has two Paintings, “Spring Pastures,” in which grazing sheep are the dominant element, and “Going to Water.” Mr. J. H. Moser has sent a characteristic landscape, en- titled “September Haze;” the Rev. Jo- hannes A. Oertel, who may fairly be called a Washington artist, 1s represented by one painting, “Across the Sands of Dee.” ‘The two pictures which Mr. Wells M. Sawyer exhibits are “Solitude” and “An Oid Es- tate,” the latter having been painted out at the Calvert mansion at Riverdale, where the artist spent the summer. Mr. Emil H. Meyer is represented by a figure study of a girl seated in the shady corner of a pleas- ant garden. * * * Miss Anna Sands, who has been spend- ing the summer abroad, returned about a week ago, and has again opened her studio. She brings many new ideas, and an added, enthusiasm to her work, having employed her time while abroad in visiting the studios and galleries in Paris, Brus- sels, Antwerp, Munich and other cities. Miss Sands brings news of Miss Mathilde Mueden, who has been working in Paris for the past year. Miss Mueden has been studying in ‘Julien’s atelier, and now stands very high in the scnool. Her draw- ing called forth very favorable comment from Benjamin Constant and Jean Paul Laurens, and she has the entree of the iatter’s studio whenever she wishes special criticism. She has now a studio of her own, and her plan this winter is to work there for half of the day and to spend the rest of her time at Julien’s. * ** Mr. Keeling is now installed in a room in the Corcoran building, and here in this pleasant studio he is always at home to his friends after 4 o'clock. His studio is very artistically fitted up, and here and there the walls are decorated with photo- graphs bearing the autographs of some of the most celebrated of those who have stood before the foouights. Mr. Keeling is now busy with a miniature of Miss Hich- born, whose engagement to Mr. Baker has recently been announced. In his exhibi- tion, to be held at Earle’s galleries in Philadelphia some time in November, Mr. Keeling will show this portrait. and among the other miniatures will be his likenesses of Lady Randolph Churchill, Lady London- derry and Emma Eames Story. He will have also an exhibition in Baltimore this winter, and one at Fischer's gallery here. In addition to these, he expects to have a number of little portraits at the Women’s portrait show in New York, where his miniature of Mrs. James Brown Potter re- ceived honorable mention last year. * * * Much to his regret Mr. E. C. Messer re- turned from Paxson, Va., just at the time when tie woods were beginning to take on the glory of autumn coloring, but there is a great deal of equally good material around Anacostia within easy reach of his home. He has been out a number of times to catch some of the quickly changing ef- fects of color, and has made several very good studies.” Besides these sketches he has one or two important pictures which he intends to carry forward at his earliest opporiunity. One of these is a sober col- ored scene in France, the motive for which was obtained many years ago, and has lain fallow since that time. * * OK In a short time Mr. Emil H. Meyer will commence a three-quarter lergth portrait of President B. L. Whitman of Columbian University. It is In this kind of work and in genre painting that he exceils, the thor- ough grounding in figure drawing which he received in Munich having determined his bent in this direction. He has painted very few landscapes in oil recently, but is an indefatigable worker with the’ pencil, and In his black and white sketches, there is always a sense of color, as well as of light and shade. He made a short time ago a-serles of gouache illustrations of views in and about Clean Drinking Manor, a his- toric place near Chevy Chase. * *O* Miss D. B. King has been working on a Madonna in low relief, and has made a very artistic ttle medallion. Another piece of work almost completed is the pro- file of a young girl, and is very winning and attractive. Miss King is at her best in her portraits and studies of children, as she brings to her work a certain sympa- thy and insight into the nature of her models. A child’s head inclined slightly to one side in an attitude of natural sim- plicity and graze is now occupying her at- tention, and she will soon commence the enlargement of an odd little sketch in clay, which she calls “Morning.” Miss King has Started a frieze, drawn in charcoal, and when: finished will reach entirely around the walls of her roomy studio, on 19th street. * * * Miss Jane Bridgham Curtis spent a short time in Buckland, Va., this summer, and following that went to East Gloucester to work for a while. She is now back in the city, having returned about two weeks ago from her stay in the north. * * Another Washingtonian, who has been working in Fast Gloucester is Miss Annie W. Ingle. She was there for quite a while in the earlier part of the summer, and found many motives for water colors. She expects to be represented by a number of sketches in the coming exhibition of the Water Color Club. * * * Brief as his stay in East Gloucester was, Mr. Carl Weller managed to do quite a li- tle work, both in water color and in oll. He has started a large ofl from an aquar- elle, which he made there of a narrow foot- way, curving out into the water. In this picturesque old wharf, supported by wood- en piers, pyramidal in shape and filled with broken stone, there is the material for a very interesting study. Mr. Weller is now elaborating an eariy morning effect, which 1s pleasing in composition, as: well as in color. A tiny rivulet, boiling impetuously over the rocks that bar its passage, winds down the grass-covered slope in the fore- ground, and the whole scene has the spark- ling freshness of morning. * * * Mr. William H. Machen spent a good deal of his time this summer in sketching in the neighborhood of Great Falls. Some of his studies are of the river, with the water tumbling over the huge boulders of the falls, but in his sketches around the canal, though the subjects are less fasci- nating, there is equal truth to nature. On the canal above the falls there are some lovely expanses of smooth water, in which the trees and rocks along the banks are mirrored with almost perfest clearness. These sketches, made up the river, form the most important part of Mr. Machen’s work during the summer months, but he has also done considerable painting in his studio in the way of flower studies and game pieces. In a short time he will begin work upon a couple of portraits. What Discouraged Him. From the Chicago Post. ‘The ambitious mother was disappointed, and she showed it. “He's worth not less than a million,” she said to her daughter, “and you let him get away from you!” “I couldn't help it, mamma,” pleaded the daughter. “I gave him all the encourage- ment I could.” “Encouragement!” exclaimed the mother, with a scornful laugh. “Encouragement! You forget that you let him see you in bloomers and a bicycle face. Cupid couldn’t have stood that in Psyche.” ARE YOU LOW-SPIRITEDt Take Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. Some Suggestions for Mothers Mak- ing Winter Preparations. WARM, STYLISH, COMFORTABLE Materials That Are Popular and How They Are Made Up. COATS AND HATS —__o—___ HE WRAPS DE- igned for the little people’s wear this winter are extremely chic and pretty, rich coloring and the cape are their dominant features. Indeed, it is almost impossible to find a coat or a jacket that has nota cape of some kind— either stiff or flar- ing, round, pointed ath or slashed; of velvet silk or cloth, in a contrasting color—elabor- ately decorated with fur, lace and braid. But the wraps themselves are very sim- ple in their construction. Any of the pic- tured designs may be copied by the home dressmaker with satisfactory results. The ornamental part, too, may be accomplished very easily. This is known in the shops as a “trimming season,” and they are show- ing an endless variety of fur-braided and embroidered bands and borders ready to sew on, to say nothing of the grass linen collars, mull capes with row after row of narrow Valenciennes and deep lace points in white and beige. Of course, jeweled and spangled gimps are never used on the lit- tle people's wraps, as they give a garish ef- fect. The fur bands are very narrow, and those with short hair are preferred. It is really difficult to say which is the most popular material for these little cloaks, but either the soft boucles, flecked and barred with bright colors, or the rough- haired novelties are admirable for all- around wraps. Then, if there is to be a second or “very best” coat in the little maid's wardrobe, velvet, heavy ribbed silk brocade or smooth-finished cloth is chosen. Green is the favorite color for children this season, though scarlet, white and blue are much worn, but green’ brings out the deli- cate coloring in the little faces so effectual- ly it seems especially suitable. ‘The simplest model for the little woolen cloaks has a close-fitting waist little deeper than a yoke, fastening with two large fancy buttons. The skirt is either circular or gathered on very fully; big sleeves and a silk neck binding, and ‘it is ready for the cape and cuffs that will transform it into a stylish wrap. A clever mother has just made a coat of this kind for her seven-year- old daughter. It is a dull green boucle. flecked with scarlet and black knots. To wear with it are three sets of capes and cuffs. One of the boucle trimmed with scarlet and black braid for cloudy days; one of csarlet ribbed silk, edged with a black Jetted and fur band, and one of black v vet, with a deep border of beige lace picked out in green, scarlet and gold. A pictu hat of green felt, trimmed with rosettes of scarlet, green and black velvet and three black ostrich tips; a pair of black suede leg- gings and a little muff of the boucle and black fur complete this little blonde maid- en's winter outfit. The little brother of four has a pleated ecat of tan, green and white checked cloth. The short cape is of cloth, but the collar and cuffs are green, leather edge, with brown fox fur. A green leather belt and leather leggings and Tam make the little Tran snug. Another good model for a small boy has a plain blouse with a box pleat down the front; to this is joined a skirt, which also has a box pleat in the front and two at the back. Cuffs and a circular cape are the only trimming, except the tiny pearl buttons. This coat is made of black and scarlet mixture, and a scarlet tie, black leather belt and leggings and a three- cornered hat of scarlet felt with black rosettes and quills should be worn. A popular style for the “very best” cloak is of heavy ribbed white silk, made double- breasted, and fastening with six enameled buttons. The cape and cuffs are willow green velvet, edged with mink—a very charming combination of colors. The Marie Antoinette hat, which is one of the most becoming shapes for the small maiden: dividing the honors with the quaint pol bennet, has a brim of stiff white felt, puffed crown of willow green velvet and bunch of white ostrich tips. Rosetted strings of white satin ribbon tie this dainty hat on firmly and defy the wind to play any pranks. A little green muff and white cloth leggings fastened with tiny gilt but- tons give the finishing touches to this charming costume. ‘Then there is a coat of fawn and sap- hire blue changeable velvet, with a Elockea cape of sapphire corded silk. Deep points of heavy cream lace are appliqued on the cape and the blocks edged with sable. Cuffs and belt are trimmed in the same way. The bonnet is of sapphire silk, and has a full white ruche dotted with tiny pink rosebuds around the face. Changeable velvet is very much used for children’s corts, as a dark color can be chosen for service, and at the same time it will not look as somber and heavy as the plain velvet. The mother who values her children's health will make an especial wrap for bad, wet, weather. It need not be made of new material. The grown-ups usually possess an out-of-date coat or skirt that can be ripped up and reconstructed into a little storm cloak with cape. Make also a monk's hood or Dutch cap to keep the little maid's head dry and save an attack of earache. Such a costume can be made from a scarlet and blue checked , lined with flan- nel and trimmed with a row of black wave braid. With a muff and leggings a child can brave the stormy weather. A Girl's Recovery. Miss Lottie Penticof! Tells of Her Long Mlmess—The Story Should Be Read by All Young Girls. From the Democrat, Freeport, Ill. A popular young lady is Miss Lottie A. Ponticott, who resides at 283 Charles avenue, Freeport, Tl. She was engaged as a clerk tn a large fruit market and grocery store for over a year, tut had to re- sign her position on account of her poor health. When she was fourteen years old she was troa- wled with irregularity of the menstrual periods and afterward with entire suppressions. She grew pale, sallow and thin. Every trace of color left her face and even her lips were entirely devoid of color. Her blood was entirely impoverished. Her appe- tite was vers poor and she could not sleep well. When she arose in the morning she felt no more refreshed than when she retired at night. She was always tired and lost all ambition for every thing. MISS LOTTIE A. PENTICOFF. She wes also bothered almost constantly with the headache and a pain in her side and hack. She would sometimes feel so weak she could scarcely walk. She had rheumatism in her lower limbs, too. They were badly swollen and her people were afraid she would have dropsy. She was treated by two of the best physiclans in Freeport, but wi out the slightest belp. One day ber mother read about @ case similar to her daughter's that was cured by Dr. Williams" Pink Pills for Pale People. She told ber daughter about them, and «ald Lottie ought to try them, be- cause the doctors could not help her, So she pro- «ured the pills, and before she had taken the first box she was very much Improved, her appetite grew better and her sleep more refreshing. She continued to take the pills for six months. Whtle taking the pills she gradually improved, until she Was entirely cured. Now she is In robust health and she is no Jongor troubled with that tired feeling. She bas no more headaches and the pain in her side is also gone. She hag not felt any «ymptoms of rheumatixm since she used the Pink Pills, Her complexion has lost that pale and sallow look and she has gained in weight Js now in perfect health and better than the had for years before she used the pills, She feels confident that she owes her health and even ber life to Dr, Williams’ Pink Pills for Pale People She thinks it is perfectly marvelous how well she now feels after all she suffered. She said: “I can heartily recommend the Pink Pills to any one suffering as I did.” Dr. Williams’ Vink Pills contain all the elements necessary to give new Ife and fichness to the blood and restore shattered nerves. They are sold in boxes (never in loose form, by the dozen or hundred) at 50 cents a box, or six boxes for $2 and may be had of all druggists or directly from Dr. Williams’ Medicine Co., a: TITLES AND ESTATES AT STAKE. Beresford and Churchill Families Welcome the Hope of Male Julian Ralph im the New York Journal. The (Londen) Sunday Times says the members of both the Beresford and the Churchill families will rapturously welcome the announcement that two of the Duchess- es of Marlborough—namely, Lillian, whose third husband is Lord William Beresford, and the reigning duchess, nee Miss Van- derbilt—afford hope for the advent of the male heirs ardently desired in both fam- ilies. The Churchill family especially are anxious for an heir. In the event of the demise of the reign- ing Duke of Marlbcrough without a male heir there would be available material for highly interesting and most expensive law suits. The dispute would probably lie be- tween the present duke’s eldest sister, Lady Frances Gresley, and Mr. Winston Church- ill, eldest son of the late Lord Randolph Churchill. It is a matter of uncertainty whether the palace of Blenheim and the Duchy of Marl- borough go to the next male heir in case there is a female whe comes nearer to the last holder of the title in genealogical descent. For instance, the present duke has inherited through the female line as descendant of the second daughter of the great Duke of Marlborough. This lady married Lord Sunderland, and his son be- came Duke of Marlborough on the death of his aunt, Countess of Godolphin. Both the patent granting Blenheim to the first duke and the patent creating the dukedom are said to be extremely obscure. ls ESET its CHOICE. AN Easy al Punishment Leads to castic Debate and Witty Tilts. From the Chicago Times-Herald. “You know that Michigan is one of the few states in the Union where capital pun- ishment ts forbidden by law,” said Frank H. Hosford, secretary of the democratic campaign committee, “and the people are very tenacious of the good name of the state in that respect, and although some persors in every legislature for many years have undertaken to restore the death pen- alty, the proposition has always been de- feated. But the question “bobs up serenely’ with every legislature; there ts any amount of oratory and long contests in each house of the legislature. “Some years ago an amusing thing hap- pened while the debate on this bill was pending in the house at Lansing. Three able and loud-lunged representatives, who sat near each other on the right side of the house, made successively long and vig- orous tpeeches on the question, all in favor of the hanging bill. When the last one took his seat a young man on the extreme left of the house rose quickly and sald: ‘Mr. Speaker, I rise to a question of privi- lege.’ ‘The gentleman will state his que: tion of privilege,’ said the speaker. ‘Mr. Speaker,’ contirved the young man, ‘I want to inquire of our friends of the other side of the house which they think is preferable —to be hanged or talked to death.’ This statement was greeted with great applause, promptly checked, however, and turned against its author by a big-voiced member, who rose right back of the three offenders and called out, in a boiler-factory voice: “Well, if you're going to talk, we prefer to be hanged.” ee Im the From the Baltimore News. Farleigh—“Did you attend the base ball benefit at Ford's last night?” Wedleigh—“No, the baby’s teething and I was at home doing things to benefit my City.