Evening Star Newspaper, August 15, 1896, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, AUGUST. 15; 1896-TWENTY-FOUR PAGES, PIAZ: ‘ala i DAMES. FASHIONS IN EDEN a Not the Original Garden of Eve’s Day, However. BUT A HODERN SUMMER RESORT Some of Bar Harbor’s Most Modish Fan LACE FRIPPERIES ABOUND ae ae (@opyris! } by the Bacheller Syndicate.) BAR HARBOR, August 14, 1896, ‘The best y of the best month of the Bar Harbor <eason finds the quaint old town of Eden—d'd you know that Bar Har- ber was in the town of Eden, prophetical- ly so named long before the bevies of beau- ties that justify the title today were born er their mammas?—in all the glory of Its summer foliage, summer costumes and summer reve In the midst of it all there is a haunting note of autumn, which comes early on these northern coasts. The golden rod has been blooming for a long time, the cardinaf flower lifts its flaming red ban- ners by margins of the lake and the ttle “ams that enter it, and It Is no trouble at all to acccmpiish the boasted sum feat of “sleeping under blan- shts are deliciously chill. awn and piazza gowns which carry vut the son's earlier promise of frivolity i frippet They gain assist- @nce from the new sieeve, curiously enough WE much debated feature of the mouer nis discreetly veiled at its up- per extr Y triple cayetets of lace- edged at is more natural in a rate world than to edge similar useless but captivat- the ment © Particular Offender. zza gown of white with designs ef green sprigs is the I have in view. It has 3 and under the arms. is “rucked” the rigat F are of thin muslin, pink arm not niggardiy, and hiee flounces about the skirt de d steeves ing ¢ there are 1 tulle. sity of drapery at the shoulder, fs less adaptable to the gowns of the athletic girl. Hence we see her still clad in her mutton- leg sleeve as of old. Boating and walking gowns are made quite short and will re- main so quite through the autumn season. I have been called upon today to admire a beatirg gown of dark blue, most appro- priat? of all colors,whose lapels are frogged with bib trefolls worked in white braid, and these shamrock suggestions appear again on the cuffs and dangle from long stems down the skirt front. A walking sown of gayer sort is made altogether of white serge, its jacket with a high square collar held together by a single big white buttcn, its basque skirts buoyant and im- pertinent, the whole surmounted by a wide flat pieture hat in straw and white rib- bera. 1 note that Mrs. Burton Harrison looks for a scaling down of the big American fortunes, by what agency she neglects to state. There is no sign of it in the dress of fashionable women here or in Ne-vport. I have never seen a season of gayer dis- play in dressing. One does not see at any summer resort such displays of jewelry as distinguish a sweli ball in New York—in- deed, both Newport and Bar Harbor pride themselves on their freedom from the big and formal functions—but the lavish em- picyment of costly costumes seems to know no limit. The woman who travels with twenty trunks, the family that drags forty or fifty about with it, has a deal of finery to answer for. Extreme expensive- ness of material can be charged only against ceremonial dresses, but even the simplest day gown is expensive when cut by a fash- lonable modiste. And the grass lawns and lace-over-si!k combinations are so delicate and fragile! A New Wrinkle. There is a new wrinkle in applique work. Upon silk or crepe foundation a leaf or | other design Is traced. This is cut out of | tulle of the desired shade and sewed on around the edges. A single thickness— green if the pattern is a leaf—produces but the faintest tint. Lay three or four thicknesses of the tulle over each other and a very pronounced green results. In the case of rose petal tints a considerable variety of tint can be produced by vary- ing the number of thicknesses of pink But what a sisypfean task thus to work on flounces and leaves all over the fabric of a gown to be worn but few times! Against this, however, place the piquant deiail that black costumes are in high favor for evening wear. There are some regal beauties who could ask no finer garb, but the pale little woman will soon con- clude, that tints are better suited to them. ‘The singular popularity of white for out- of-door dresses continues, white duck and canvas being more in evidence than the softer serges. The white hat worn with {such a suit is apt to have one potent note in a huge black plume, thus carrying the eye upward to the one dominant note. Mantles and wraps are beginning to ap- pear, presaging cool weather, but as yet AN - oo Giris.~ hem, outlined with narrow black ribbon, which appears again at the waist and in the lines ever the shoulder. The moderate V of the bodice is a beautiful feature not at all uncommon in this season’s outdoor gowns. Women with pretty necks always find high collars “so uncomfortable,” and so they always will. Ome of the prettiest garden party frocks of the Bar Harbor season was worn today by a little lady in the Boston set. All that one could see of it was a sort of dust cloak arrangement of gray chine silk dot- ted with black, green and purple flowers. It had a spencer bodice with white satin revers and the cape sleeves reached quite to the elbow, their gray glace matching the crepe de chine. There were purple bows at the open shoulders and a ruching of pinked out purple silk surrounded the sleeves and revers. The skirt was plain and came quite to the ground, showing just a suspicion of lace frippery as the wind caught It. To call such a splendid affair a dust cloak Is quite of a piece with calling the big Bar Harbor and Newport palaces cottages. A very pretty hat went with tho outfit, a coarse, gTass-green straw, with a sugar loaf crown and a brim of pink roses climbing up the left side to cluster at the base of an ostrich plume. High Hats. High hats have come with the heated season and will last well into autumn. There Is no doubt that they are better adapted to fend off extreme heat than the flat topped species. The new sleeve, with its supposed neces- they are mainly of the silk and lace va. niety. Here again appears the season’s fad of lace over silk, or even lace over net, a combination too diaphonous to be of much protection against the cold. This doubtless is not the purpose of those frag- lle cobwebs of white lace over black net, with strong lines drawn in puffed chiffon and black ribbons. Age cannot wither nor custom stale the infinite variety of the blouse. it will be just as much a favorite this fall, they say, as it has ever been. There are beau- ties in lavender whose white silk tabs, epaulets, collars and cuffs are edged with lace. It is not too late to get golf costumes, Golfing will be in a blaze of glcry for the next three month ELLEN OSBORN. —+o+—_____ The Steak and Butter. From the New York Pries. Mr. Newed—“My dear, I wouldn't deal with Litewait any more. This steak is like sole leather.” Mrs. Newed—‘Why, he assured me that it would be hard to beat.” Mr. Newed—“And the butter is simply abominable!” Mrs. Newed—‘‘Oh, dear! And he told me expressly that butter was his strong point!” FOR NERVOUS DYSPEPSIA Use Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. De. T. BP. WINS, Tarboro’, N.C, says: "No othe ration compares ordinary cases of nervous dyspepsia MIDSUMMER JOYS Coaching Parties and Straw Rides Are Entertaining. PROPER THINGS 70 WEAR THEN Women Are Fond of Floating, Fluttering Trimmings. RIBBONS AGAIN IN VOGUE HE SOCIAL IN- stincts of the sum- mer visitor are never given freer scope than when they lead him to collect a doz- en or 80 of his con- freres, with as many “sisters,” and go off somewhere for a ride and a lunch under the greenwood tree. This ride may be be- hind the slowest of beasts and in the bumplest of wagons, or It may be on top of the swellest kind of tally-ho, but the en- joyment is the same, and the object of. a good, eppetizing trip through pure air and fresh, clean country {s attained in both. ‘The sojourrers at a country farm house who have any ambition to emulate their richer brethren in the enjoyment of a pic- nic ride would do well to see to it that in substituting the straw-lined wagon for the tally-ho they do not get the mill wagon without springs. It has an ample look about it, with its deep bed and high sides, that suggests a comfortable back, but alas for the spine that clatters against those sides as the wagon goes bumping over stones at a rate of speed that one could hardly believe possible from the plough horses pressed into service for the occa- sion. In a spring wagon, however, with a Uttle extra room to shift one’s position now and then, there is enough fun to make up for the lack of style in equipage. No Chanee for Pretty Dresses. But there is no chance for pretty dresses on the summer straw ride. They wouldn't show if they were worn, and they wouldn't be worn, because if they were they would be ruined. Those who can afford it prefer to ride in a tally-ho, because while it 1s not | | so Bohemian as to sit with one's feet tied in a double bow knot on the bottom of a wagon, and while there is none of that de- Mghtful uncertainty as ta whether it 1s one’s own or some one else’s foot, H is really more comfortable as well as more dignified, and gives chaperons less trouble In keeping track of their charges. ‘There is the same chance for the tooting of horns, but the ultra-fashionable prefers a professional bugler, who can blow tunes that mean something, though it isn’t every one in the party who kncws that. ‘There are several degrees of elaborate- ness in the style of a tally-ho party. Those who merely go out for the fun of it, with- out any thought of display in equipage or costumes, dress very plain and blow their own horns. Then there are those who would like to make a display and wear their very best, but only succeed in looking shoddy. The acme of aristocratic plenicking 1s reached when Newport goes out for tts coaching party to Jamestown. The differ- ence between this and the basket picnic on a buckboard fs the same as the difference between Newport's subscription ball that was held the other night at the Casino and the “shake-down” that took place In Jake Johnson's barn away back up country on the same evening. Floating Trimmings. The chief difference is in the matter of dress, and this, at a fashionable coaching party, !s a very important factor. Women are very fond of wearing appendages that. float in the breeze. Waving plumes and scarfs are always in evidence, and those beautiful osprey clusters that are so fash-- fonable now created a perfect furor among feminine coachers. These osprey clusters, by the way, are as expensive as their rarity would justify, though they are not so highly taxed as the enemies of bird slaughter would wish, The cheapest va- riety are sold at $5.50 a pair, and these are very scanty. It requires a pair of them to trim a hat, but this, with a iittle chiffon or lace, is enough. Sometimes they are set on in the front of a hat in a nest of mull or tulle and made to stand up and then float back in the breeze. On other hats they are set at one side of the crown, with a lace fan to balance them on the other side. Another trimming that is new and that is well adapted to a coaching hat is a sort of cockade made of the tall feathers of or- dinary fowls. The feathers are set one above another on a stem, like a spray of: larkspur or gladiola. Ribbons Again. Riboon has resumed its old place as trim- ming for knock-about hats. Bows are set on nearer the back than the front, and each loop has a particular direction as- signed it, and should be wired to stay. Ribbon is growing more and more pop- ular also for dress trimmings, and it is no longer sufficient to provide one’s self with @ belt and stock. The single, narrow belt ribbon will not suffice, but must be wrapped several times about the body, girdle fash- jon, and tied in a good-sized bow, some- times with long ends. Since the sash has returned to favor a new sash material has been imported. It is a sort of Persian figured gauze with ribbon edge, and makes a pretty trimming for filmy dresses. Since the issue of the recent edict on the subject of sleeves there has been a great influx of shoulder trimmings to ease off that narrow effect which we have forgot- ten how to admire. Square-shaped epaulets are the most com- mon. They are sewed down into the arm's eye a couple %f inches below the shoulder point, back and front, and stand out about six inches over the sleeve. They are often covered with lace, sometimes white, some- times black, depending upon the other trimming. When the dress is trimmed with braid, rows of it may be sewed on the epau- lets, the stripes thus adding to the width. A yoke of lace or chiffon with bretelles of ribbon usually accompanies this style of trimming. Collars are high, especially in the back, and usually have a quilling of lace or rib. bon at the sides and back. Ruching—such as we wore some years ago, made of double rows of lace, or chif- fon, or loops of baby ribbon—is being sold by the yard, and is quite fashionable again. Indeed, 1f we dress ourselves up in the newest style we will find that we look very much as we did four years ago. ANNIE LAURIE WOODs. ————_+e+______ HOUSEHOLD HINTS. Cool as a cucumber is proverbial. On the hottést day a cucumber will feel much ecoler than the atmosphere surrounding it. Some people are afraid of them, unneces- sarily, however, if they are properly treat- ed. Select fair-sized, whitish, but not over ripe ones, and put them in the ice box for a few hours. Then peel thickly, slice mod- erately thin, crosswise, and place in layers in a cold dish. Sprinkle each layer thick with salt, and set the dish in the ice box sgain for an hour or two, When ready to serve dash ice water over the dish, washing off all the salt. With it will go that pecu- Mar acrid flavor that spoils the cucumber and makes it uneatable. Serve in cool dish- es, dressed as you best like them, with a little cracked tce laid over the top of all. Fresh, meaty, rare ripe tomatoes that are not yet “mushy” are deliclous when sliced thick amd served with sugar and cream. They are considered very whole- some food, too. Toasted graham bread makes a nice change for breakfast. Cut in slices quarter of-an inch thick, brown evenly but Tishuy, then apread thinly with butter on both sides and place in the hot even for the space of a minute. Servd Got, jn a napkin. Many people fafl in making “angel food.” Never beat the mass after the flour is add- ed. Beat the eggs and sugar “for dear life,” but when the many-times-sifted flour is added, stir o1 Jusdenough to get it all mixed in, bake in a quick oven, slowing down, and don’t open the aven door for ten minutes, or walk heavily across the floor, or even then you will have a tough cake “What is yourpbaim,of youth?” asked a thin little w of \Her big jolly friend, who had at least ten more birthdays to her credit, yet looked ten younger than the anxious questioner. “I sleep eight hours a right; I’ eat wholesome food only, and plenty of it, and I never worry,” was the reply. Wholesome recipe! Sunburn sometimes causes intense suffer- ing. Among all the remedies the follow- ing is one of the best: As soon as you get indoors order a pitcher of boiling water. Fold to half a dozen thicknesses a cloth large enough to cover the whole of your fuce. Pour over this enough of the hot water to wet it through. Wring it iightly— it must be hot enough to make this a pain- ful process—and le dowg, with it pressed over your face, leaving®space for your mouth. Let the cloth remain till cool. Then dip again, keeping the water hot all the time. After half an hour of this dip the cloth in cool water, not ice cold, two or three times; then rub the face gently with white vaseline. Rub off with a clean, soft cloth and put on fresh vaseline; then Me dcwn for an hour’s sleep. Unless the sun- burn is bone-deep there will be small trace of the patnfulness left after two hours of this treatment. When the baby cuts its finger don’t run for a basin of water, but do the finger up in a soft rag right in the blood, and let it dry so. A fow hours later you can wash the cut and apply vaseline. For a black eye or a hurt that will make an unsightly spot, apply water as hot as cen be borne, for a few minutes, and then bind raw beef on the spot. There is nothing better for removing fin- ger prints on the furniture than a cloth mcistened with ceal ofl. Don't use too much oil, and rub the furniture with a flan- nel cloth afterward. It takes out white spots on varnished or oiled furniture also. Pour on the spots and leave for a few min- utes, and then rub off with a flannel. Tur- pentine is recommended, but It will eat the life out of varnish and make tt look dull. thin and cut round. Trim long, narrow strips of the crust, twist two together and make a rim of it'on each cake, then put in a ple tin and bake lightly. In a quick oven. Fi with jelly or jam and serve cold. The top layer may be one of the cakes, with four or more rings cut out. Bake both separately, spread the whole cake with jam and lay the other on top and press lightly together. These make nice tarts for children’s teas. You can cool the air of a sick room ap- preciably by keeping sheets saturated with lee water hung in the door or. window through which the most air or wind comes, to fan it back and forth. A delicious dish for lunch dr supper may be made of th®™left-over--meatiérom, the previous dinner, Chop the meat fine, ‘add’ 2 cupful of fhe, dry breadcrumbs ‘to. a cupful of the meat, the meat of one large, rhpe tomato, chopped fine, half a teaspoon- ful of finely minced onion, tablespoonful of butter and one of minced parsley, half a teaspoonful of-salt, pepper to taste, and one beaten egg. Mix all well, and add one-fourth of a up of good soup stock, or of cold water. Select’ half a dozen latte green'pepiets, cyt off a’ little of the end of each and scoop: out the contents. Pour boiling water ovér them and cook for three or four minutes, then Ifft on a clean cloth to drain dry. Fill with the meat mixture and set in a buking dish with some soup stock around them and bake for half an hour. Serve hot, though they are very nice cold, and may be prepared in the morning for the evening's tea x _ Weak eyes may be much benefited bya bath twice a Gay, on rising and retiring, in salt and water. Just a pinch of salt to a gill of water, applied with a soft rag. § cipient catarrh can also be cured by snui ing twice a day 4 pint of warm water, hot as can be enduted, in ‘which half a’ ‘ea- spoonful of salt and ‘a piece of baking soda as big as a pea have been dissolved. The head feels beautifully clear after the operation. Growing girls from ten to fourteen are often possessed with a desire to eat Salt and salty things. They hoard pennies to buy from the market the big, half-ripé ¢ucum- bers that are soaking In salt water, and they even"eat salt by the teaspoonful at the table. It 1s a natural but perntcious craving at that age, and fs often productive of very bad results if the appetite ts not curbed. ‘When you see your children biting their nails, sit right down and manicure them. Soak them in soapy water, first, and press the skin back at the roots; then trim most to the qitlék with a pair of sharp scis-_ sors. You can break the bad ‘habit in @ month by this attention once a week, and insure your child a nice set of halls when she is grown. You will make a better job if you polish them a little. A nail-bitten hand is a horror, particularly on a woman. For a dry, scaly scalp no dressing is bet- ter than vaseline, rubbed into the scalp till the head fairly burns with the friction. Part the halr a little at a time and rub on the head, not on the hair. Brush first, to get all the dust and loose dandruff out, and brush after applying to get the vaseline evenly distributed. Clover blossom tea is sald to be a great blood purifier. Make your trips to the clover field pay you by gathering the blossoms. Make a strong tea of them and drink it. If you don’t want to use the blooms now, pull and hang away in paper sacks to dry against a day of need. ee KEEPING THEM BUSY. Ways to Prevent Boys From Making Minchief, The youth who is obliged to spend his vacation in town is an unhappy person with an enormous power of rendering others unhappy also, unless some outlet is provided for his energies. The sand heap ts an institution beloved by the moth- ers of restless boys. It may be dumped in @ back yard of modest dimensions, and hajf the delights of the seashore are open- ed at once to the sons of the houschold. A tent is a comparatively inexpensive plaything, and is warranted to make any healthy youth happy if it Is placed in a corner of the yard. In it he may be a wild Indian, a warrior, or almost any of the personages he delights to honor and imitate. It is an excellent idea to have some in- door apparatus for exercising. On rainy days the little fellow will not be so likely to smash his sister's dolls out of pure exuberance of spam it ‘he has exercised on chest weights In—his room, or swung a ring and rope arrangement in his door- way. a +043 —____ JOHNNY'S “JUMPERS.” Sey Serviceable Garments for the Young- sterg to ,}Vear. * It lacks the picturesque possibilities of the small girl’s sdmmef“attire—that of the small boy, but jt hag\a certain sturdy charm sof its own. Johnny in “jumpers” may not be so pretty as Fannie in frilled aprons, but no one caf doubt his entire readiness for all the g00d times that come his way. The héart of’ his mother takes comfort in him, for she*fealizes-that guard- ed by denim or ticking against slits and stairs, her labors,as a mender are lessened. There are two styles of “jumper” fa- vored by fashion. One consists of trousers set on a broad band and strapped over the shoulders. The other comes in two pieces— trousers and all-covering blouse. Clad in this the small boy’s white shirt waist and Unen trousers are protected against all.in- jury, and he may be made ready to “drive with mamma,” or “walk with papa,” at a minute's notice. Knee pieces bear the same relation to the stocking that jumpers do to the suit. They protect the small boy’s hosiery at its most vulnerable point. They are made of soft black leat lined with padding. They are shaped to fit the knee and are tied on by strings. ——_——_——_-e-—___ Fine Campaign Name. Frem the Buffalo Express. A Kentucky politician carries about the euphonious handle of “Col. Jack Chinn.” ‘What a beautiful name for the present campaign. ADVICE TO THE GIRLS} . Take Good Care of the Chain on Your - Wheel, SEE THAT THE SADDLE SETS RIGHT Take an Easy, Natural and Grace- ful Position. MANY \THINGS TO AVOID There is probably no city in the country where so many ladies and girls ride wheels as Washington. It is a common thing for a visitor to remark about the large number of young ladies, and older ones, too, for that matter, to be seen spinning along over the broad, smooth streets, especially during the early evening. While the local people take such a sight In a matter-of-course way, the visitor looks at it in a different light, and is not satisfied until he ascertains the cause. The fact that the bicycle as a means of healthful exercise 1s unsurpassed is per- haps the main reason. Then, again, the streets of the city offer unusual induce- ments for free and easy riding, even though the new police regulations may be some- what against fast time. The wheel is not now the luxury that it used to be, and the persons of moderate means can ride a bi- cycle just as well as their richer cousins. That the price of wheels has been an im- portant factor in the number of riders it evidenced by the increase during the pas' year. Last year there were but compara- tively few female riders, but this year the number jumped up and trebled and quad- rupled that of last year with lightning rapidity. People sald it was the bicycle fad, but an effective cause was in the reduc- tion of the price. There are some fair riders in the city who | laugh at the way some of the male riders | hump themselves, and yet the figure these { same girls display while riding is just as | ludicrous. Indeed, some of the girls ar now aping the boys, and riding with handle bars down far enough to cause them to} tend over to reach the grips. This ts not! graceful, nor does it look pretty. Importance of a Correct Attitude. It is common to see the young ladies rid- ing, looking considerably like a ball while seated im the saddle. Even though a girl be | short and dumpy, she need not cut such a! figure as this. The rider looks as though she were sitting directly on the mud guard of the rear wheel. - | Outside of the chain the saddle is the | most important thing on the wheel. While the chain, {f properly kept in condition, | will make cycling a pleasure, the saddle, unless it suits the rider, Is apt to counter- balance all enjoyments. What the chain is to the wheel the saddle is to the rider. The difference between a man’s and a addle was never so marked as year, and this clearly demonstrates the fact that the cycle menufzcturers are | cognizant and catering to the demands of | i the public. Select a saddle that suits you after a thorough trial, and you will never | regret it. With a good saddle, assume a natural and gtaceful position. Do not let the saddle rest upon the top frame of the wheel, for | fear the saddle post will not stand your weight. If the reach from the saddle to the pedals is so great as to make it necessary for the saddle to be on the top bar of the frame, then make the dealer furnish a lower frame bicycle. To make a graceful appearance, and ai the same time assume a position which will tend to give all the | healthful exercise necessary, sit as nearly straight in the saddle as when walking. | The reach, which is the distance from the | saddle to the lowest point of the pedals when revolved, should be nearly as long as the leg. Assuming this position the rider is able to do more work than in any other position it is possible to take. It brings all of the muscles of the limbs into play, permits none to get cramped, and develops all alike. This being the case, the cyclist is able to ridc farther and longer, with the least exertion. It does away with the ugly eight of virtually sitting on the mud guard of the rear wheel, which makes a pretty girl look so different from the way she would like to appear. So raise the saddle post until you get your reach, and ride gracefully. Correct Method of Pedaling. The method of pedaling among the girls 1s varied. While some use the ball of the foot, others use the toe, but the-great ma- jority practically lock the pedal in the in- step and against the heel. The last two positions are wrong, and cramp the mus- les of the ankle to a certain extent, pre- venting an equal development. The correct position Is to pedal with the ball of the foot resting squarely on the pedals. By force of habit many pedal with the instep, because they claim that their feet slip off the pedal when shoving in any other man- ner. This clearly shows that they use very little power in working the pedals, Fur- thermore, it shows that they do not know how to ride. With the least bit of power the ball of the foot can be kept in position, especially where rat trap pedals are used. To those who cannot use the pedals in this way It is best to use toe clips, though it is seldom that a woman uses such. Racing men use toe clips because they are apt to lose their pedal when shoving the wheel at a high rate of speed, something to be avoided, as it generally results disastrously to them. For ordinary cycling toe ciips are not necessary. To add to a graceful appearance of a young lady on a bicycle the ankle motion of the pedal is a good thing. This is a simple movement, easily acquired, and to a great extent prevents fatigue. More than this, it assists materially in pushing the wheel, being most noticeable when climbing a hill. The ankle motion is what its name implies, a motion of the ankle, more easily executed than described. The movement is exactly the same as when you sit in a chair with your feet lifted from the ground, and work them upward and dowhward. ‘The smcoth running of the machine has much to do with the pleasure. Unless the wheel receives attention it will begin to work hard, requiring more power to push it. Endeavor to learn enough about the machine to keep it In good running order, especially the chain, wherein lies most of the friction of the entire bicycle. Even though you may not go so far as to re- pair a puncture, keep the machine running smoothly. It is more for your own good that you do this than for the good of the machine. Use a bicycle suit when you ride, and do not have too long skirts. If your wheel has a chain guard, and lacing, wear a skirt to reach the top of your walking shoe. If you have no lacing or mud guard, the dress should be much shorte! to keep it from getting tangied up in the spokes. More than one young lady has been thrown from her wheel from this cause, while there are others who have been pulled from the saddle by the dress being caught in the rear sprocket wheel and wound around like thread on a spool. A little bit of other summarised advice might prove helpful: Don’t. Don’t ride with any young man who is a Poorer rider than yourself, unless you are an expert. Don't ride on Pennsylvania avenue or other business streets until you can man- age a wheel. Don't think that because you are a wo- man other people will not look at you and criticise your appearance. Don't forget that it takes fully five or six months to properly ride a wheel, after you have learned how to ride. This sounds Paradoxical, but is true. Don't forget to learn how to back pedal. It is just as easy as front pedaling, and will be of some advantage to you. Don't coast down a hill until you learn how to ride up one equally as steep. Don’t ride too far for your strength, be- cause you happen to enjoy the company with you. It's too great a risk to run. Don’t forget to look where you are rid- ing, and don’t turn around while in motion to see what style of dress another girl may Wear. Don't forget that wet asphalt pavements ®re dangerous, and apt to throw you from the wheel unless you are careful. oe HUSBANDS EMANCIPATED. One Woman's Device to Get a Glimpse of Her Back Hair. One woman has grown tired of asking her husband whether there are any strag- gling hairs at the back of her head, and being misinformed about the real state of affairs. Casting about for a remedy, she has devised a looking glass in which all women will delight. The invention is a simple attachment of wire, which may be fitted In a second to any hand mirror. This lengthens the handle by about eligh- teen inches. At the end of the long }andle | there is a device of a simple nature, which by the mere pressure of the thumb attaches the handle to the back of the chair. That is all, but it does the work. The lady who desires to see her back hair draws the chair with the hand mirror close to hea dressing mirror. She sits in the chair with her back to the large mirror, and looks in the smaller one; and there she has both her face and her back before her eyes. No | need of @ bungling, irresponsible husband, who knows nothing about her back hair; no need of an expensive maid. The woman can use both her hands freely in the ar- rangement of her hair. She can tie the A Handglass That Holds Itself. bow at the back of her neck withont being plunged in anxious doubt as to whether it 1s straight. She can leave her home with the perfect assurance that her belt is properly adjusted at the back; also that waist and skirt have not parted company so as to leave an unseemly gap; and she has not had to depend on anyboily to know that her hat is rightly poised upon her head. It is a great step in the direction of the emancipation of women, and is sure to be appreciated. +ee- She Had Good Reasons. From Harper's Round Table. A fat old gentleman in a light gray sult got Into an elevated train at 34th street and bustled every one out of his way in order to secure the only vacant seat left on the shady side of the car. As soon as he had thrown himself into the seat he buried his face in a newspaper in order that he might not see how many women were standing in the car. The train had hardly pulled out of the station when a poorly dressed and undoubtedly Irish wo- man who sat next to him touched him on the arm and said: “I beg your pardon, sorr—" The old gentleman looked up and frowned, and then turned to his news- paper again. “Will you be so good, sorr,” began the woman again. The fat man in the gray sult glared sav- agely, but gave no reply. Several times the woman tried to make him speak. At last, just after the guard had announced “oth Street!” the woman said again: “I really beg your pardon, sorr, but—” ‘The fat man turned upon her savagely, his face very red, and exclaimed: “If you don’t stop talking to me, wo- man, I'll call the conductor and have you put off the car!” “Shure, sorr,” exclaimed the woman, “I'm afther gettin’ off at 9th street, but, conductor or no conductor, I won't get out until you get off my butter that you've been sittin’ in since you got om at 34th street!” —+e2—_____ A Great Opportunity, From the Cincinnati Enquirer. “I wish I was one of them spiritualist fel- lers,” said Perry Patetic, as he lay on his back gazing at a cloud end wondering why it moved when it didn’t have to. “What fer?” sald Wayworn Watson. “Jist this. All the papers is full of stuff about wot Tom Jefferson and Abe Lincoln and Andy Jackson would do in this here election. If I was one of them fellers I'd jist call "em up and find out, and sell the information to whichever party it done the most good to.”” THE RETORT From Harper's Bazar. ‘TRAMPEAN. Miss Chilledame—“Don’t you know that nature rebels against laziness? A man can get nothing in this world without labor.” Wresting Offen—“Humphi Can't he? He can git hungry, I guess. FLIRTING BY SIGNS Devices Used by the Chaperoned Summer Girl. FANS AND PARASOLS AS SIGNALS An Elaborate Code of Ciphers Made Necessary. THE SWAINS’ ae hate REPLIES (Copyright, 1896, by the Bacteller Individually, the summer girl may somo- times appear old, but viewed collectively as a phase of modern society, co-existent with summer drinks and the co-operative irternational marriage industry, she is ever new and refreshing, and her ways and wilos are the proper study for mankind during those months when the actual flight of th mercury can only be estimated by the use of a powerful field glass. It is said on good authority that the omnipresence of this season's chaperon, for in spite of the summer girl's objections the chaperon is an arcomplished fact, ts rapidly bringing about a return to ihe ol manner of communion between the sexes celled the “inanimate flirtation.” Left to her own devices, with her chap- eron sleeping peacefully on the verandah or teaching the rising generation a few points, the summer girl is sufficient unto herself in all matters of perso.al fascina- | ticn; but she fs not left to herself, that is ; the rub, and when she fitrts it is in the shadow of a lynx-eyed chaperon But convey tender messages she will; if | not with pretty lips and sparkling | then with her parasol or fan or gioves j the case may be. If she Is on the promenade and longing Syndicate. as to express her approval of the very poor but handsome young man whom she met at the ball the night before, her parasol is | accepted method of bringing joy to his rt, or sorrow, as she may incline. If ste twirls it frantic she wishes him to know that the chaperon ts watching. If she carries it in both hands she intends to elude all vigilance and meet him in the conservatory during the coming dance. If she carries it over her right shoulder the chaperon has relented and he may join her; if over the left she will not try to meet him. For the expression ef more tender senti- | ment say, perhaps, to the man whom she | loves and has been ruthiessly parted from | on the arrival of a more valuable foreign | “specimen,” she reserves the following #1R- | nals: Holding the parasol to her hps—"I still love you.” Dropping it—"Do not think | Or in case the newly arrived is fascinat- | ing well as eligible parasol lest truths. If zht hand of the fickle maid it announces her engagement to the catch of the season. If she merely pats it with her dainty, dimpled hand expresses annoyance that he should upon watching her. But the refin of cruelty is reached when she thoaghtfally taps her chin with the tip of A asol. This means that she will not only marry the rival, but loves him as well In the drawing room the fan is substi- tuted for the parasol, and is really th ferred weapon offensive und defensive the much chaperoned summer girl. Of “course it is understood that these pretty ccquettish signals are only employed after a formal introduction has taken place and under circumstances where the poor, | artless girl is entirely overshadowed by some aged dowager. When a warning of danger is sent by fan, the pretty mass of feathers, ribbons and ivory is drawn across the forehead. When it Is placed against the right car the fascinated youth understands that the maiden fair thinks his affections are un- Stable. When it is pressed caressingly against her cheeks he rejotves, for he knows that “her heart is true to Poll.” If she closes j4t with a snap then he looks about for # | cozy corner, for the chaperon ts asleep and | the coast is clear | And the tiniest of fluttering Watteau fans j can contribute to the breaking of the heart of the undesirable parti as easily as the most cutting speeches or frowning glances, When the summer girl has grown tired of an adorer she has but to draw her fan through those kissable little hands and she has expressed absolute abhorrence. To ar nounce her affection for another the same instrument of torture is gaily twirled in her right hand. If she relents on secing the young man grow suddenly palo and gaze at the ocean or “perpendicular cliffs” with sinister meaning, she has only to draw her fan over her eyes to tell him she is sorry and will try to meet him And the much tried young man, how may he express his delight, sorrow or indigna- jtion at the messages thus forwarded? Whether on the promenade or in the draw | Ing room he sends back his signals with hie gloves. If he twirls them in nervous agitation he has observed the haughty stare of the un- relenting chaperon. If he places them to his eyes he is overcome with her cruelty, jand by holding one in each hand he be- | seeches her to wait fo® him. If he folds them neatly he ts bezging for an interview, but if he only twirls in both hands he shows indifference. If by chance he has found out the hidd depths ef her frivolous nature and transferred his affections to another Ma- donna face he tells her of it by twisting his gloves in a somewhat vicious fashion. If after twisting the gloves he winds them around his forefinger he wishes her to wn- derstand that the Madonna girl is wearing his engagement ring. soe THE LATEST FAD. Autograph Hats Now the Rage With College Students and Summer Giri One of the new fads that started with the Cornell University boys is the fashion of wearing autograph hats. One sces them everywhere, for college men in other col- leges have taken {t up, and have scattered themselves here and there among the sum- mer girls. The hats are made of white canvas, with stitched brims. Names can be written in ink anywhere on the surface. One of these had several nathes of well- krowr men written upon !t, among them the man who pulled stroke for the Cornell eight that won such a glorious victory over Pennsylvania, Harvard and Columbia in that memorable boat race at Poughkeepsie. Sentimental young men coliect the names of their sweethearts, though this has its drawbacks, because there is always the chance that the last girl will want to know ali about the other girls whose names she finds written on the hat before hers. The words are usually printed, though script makes a prettier hat and looks less like an advertising device. To see stalwart young college men stalking along with these hats on gives one the impression of one of those in-pecuntous indivi who march up and down upon the business streets with @ printed placard on their backs to the effect that “a regular dinner can be had at the Blank dairy lunch for 20 cent However, the fad is growing, and by fall the white hats will be black. soe Being Consisten From the Detroit Tribune. “How ridiculously small the artist has made the cows in the illustrations,” ex- claimed the author. ‘Well, I suppose I shall have to have my characters drink condensed milk in order to be consistent.” An exacting age, capricious in its prefer- ences and prone to pursue strange go: had chained the pen to the chariot whcel of the pencil, as it were,