Evening Star Newspaper, February 29, 1896, Page 18

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18 STYLES FOR SPRING Cloths and Cuts That the Men Will Most Favor. FASHIONS FOR THE FASTIDIOUS Fancy Figures and Patterns Will Be in Vogue. TROUSERS ARE NARROW ow THAT LENT has come,” said a matter-of-fact socte- y woman yesterday, “we lay away our gowns and jewels and meditate upon what we are going to wear on Easter Sun- day. She was doubtless disrespectful in at- tributing such world- liness to all her sis- ters, but, pethaps,her environment had a great deal to do with ber declaration. She lives and moves in the domain of dress and breathes the atmos- Phere of fashion, and while she will pre- serve the outward respect for the solemn season of fasting and prayer, and will sedulously regard its forms to the extent of going regularly to service—at the fash- icrable church, of course—and carry her prayerbook and hymnal with devotion and the certainty that every one will see them, she will yet give the moments between time to the earnest consideration of the spring styles. The postman will bring to her door little packages of samples of new £cods, the fashion journals will arrive and be eagerly pored over, and along about mi- careme she will begin consultations with her modiste, and with the Easter time she will burst forth resplendent as the Easter sun. What the Men Will Do. It is not the intention of the writer, how- ever, to indulge in a dissertation upon what she will decide upon during this Period of piety. It would lead to such an amount of bewillerment that no one could find a way out of the mazes. It is more satisfactory and remunerative to indulge im speculation about what the men will be iS at the same time, because the sterner sex is nearly as much addicted to style and fashion as its fair opposite. The men may not lose as much sleep and temper over the subject as the women, but they are no the anxious td be properly attired. So ‘The Evening Star will help them solve the blem by giving a few hints about going to be what.” Ready-Made Clothes in the Styles. The tailors are now filling their shops with material for 2 creations, and a glance at the stocks shows that there will be mie light colors worn this spring than fer many pre s while in plai and stripes fabrics are shown that are in me instances almost equal to fog horns. same styles ar ame mat@tials h th well-to-do will secure from their 0 procurable by the le: merchants who deal in Ss ready-made ciothes. For an in- stigator of such things the wonder ever at the remarkable manner in which est grades of ready-made clothing keep and great he first to.see the and prepare themselves ac- ble for any man who sees a sult ¢ brother who is tyles to visit sde clothing house with the other to apparent intents and purposes. One-Button Cutaway Frock. foresight. igns of the sary money fo! The one-button cutaway frock suit will be popular for business men who are broad of shoulder and generous in girth. The illustration of this style gives an excellent idea of its general effect. The j materials most favored #) will be cheviots and } tweeds, in grays, blacks and blues. Tt will be no- ticed that the trousers are of the “peg-top” va- riety, full in the leg and small at the ankle. Their width at the knee will be 18% inches, and at the foot 164 novation in the size of tro r legs will probably be followed to a extent later on until the style will even more constricted in dimen- To the man with delicate feet it be welccme, but those who possess jal extremities of the thick and broad Yariety will doubtless grumble at it quite extensively. Four-Button Sack. By younger men, of good height, the four- button sack suit will he considerably worn. The coat edges will be single stitched and the pockets wili have flaps that may. be worn In or out. The trousers for this style of coat will be the same “peg tops.” Striped chev- tot be the most ap- / proved material In such @ suit and there will be a tendency to loudness in the patterns. While there will be much wearing of browns and grays, the latter of the old and reliable pep- per and salt mixtures, for business use, fancy sultings will be greatly favor Bright cheviots will be seen in abundance. and the English and Scotch fabrics will be notice- ably fanciful. Consequently men of con- servative tastes are liable to have the latter severely jolted when they hold their usuai Lented consultations with their tailors. Three-Button Business Cutaway. A particularly stylish thing for the coming spring will be the three- button business cutaway, in plaids and stripes ‘The edges will be doudlo- stitched, and wide pocket flaps will be placed at the sides. ‘This is a modification of the style so popular last fall. Two or three suits in this style already ordered here at a leading house are in shades of pretty gray with an almost inde- finable brown plaid figure noticeable on close inspec- - tion. They are being made for three friends who will spend the spring months in sections far apart and will run no risk of losing their identity by wearing clothes so nearly alike. Three-Batton Cutaway Frock. For half-dress, or af- fernoon wear, the three- button cutaway frock will be generally worn. The front view is given to show how a man will look in it. The coat and yest will be made of Thibets, rough-faced cheviots or Vicuna cloth, @nd the trousers will be of fancy cheviot, of gen- erous stripes. ‘This style will be par- ticularly favored, it is thought, by those gortu- nate men who run away for Easter to some of the spring resorts, as it will be appropriate for the af- ternoon dances that are geting more and THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY t such Season, ag ‘or genéral wéar after luncheon. Double-Breasted Sack, favorite come din double- breasted sack coat with vest of the same material and fancy trousers. Black and blue cheviots will be | the proper cloth for the first-named articles, and @ glance at the accom- panying cut will show the nobby effect of ‘this style. There will be somewhat of an abbreviation in the length of coattails, and shoulders will be built more squarely. These garments will be 3 Just the thing for men * who run more to breadth and thickness than they do to height, and for those who’like walking in the brisk air of the budding time of the year will be both comfortable and nice-looking. Covert Coat. In overcoats the prevail- ing styles will be the cov- ert and the Chesterfield, or fly-front overcoat. The former will have a length of 33 or 34 inches, and will be half box in style. The edges of the fly-front will be double stitched, with the seams lapped 7% and stitched to match, 4 and there will be a seam dogn the center of the back or not, as the wear- er_may determine. For driving parties the covert coat will be the only proper thing in the line of top garments, and it will be a breach of fashion’s dictum for a man to wear a tailed coat whose points will pal below the back extremity of the cov- ert. t such th Well ob for general wear aft Chesterfield. > ‘The eminently well-dress- ed man will wear the Chesterfield. Forty inches will be the length for a man of five feet nine inches, and fancy cheviot will be the material. The edges are to be single- stitched, and the silk will extend to the edges. A glance at the cut will show at once what an ef- fective garment the Ches- terfield is, and the wide range that will be given in the selection of material for it will make it familiar to those who watch the front doors of the clubs to ascertain what is proper form in the shape of men’s clothes. The pocket flaps of the Chesterfield will be worn outside and the less the pockets are used the better it will be for the artistic appearance of the gar- ment. NOTES OF FASHION. Some Pointers About Various Details Interesting to Women. ‘The most attractive, and at the same time the most distinctly Lenten costume seen re- cently, was one of heavy dove gray faille. There was a half length wrap of the same material Hined with violet velvet. The hat was small, and consisted chiefly of sof* gray lace with a border of violets resting on the hair. A unique feature of the costume, and one which showed great individuality of taste, was a pair of gray gloves with gauntlets embroidered in violets. iolets, by the way, are much more con- spicuous and aggressive than the poets would have them. Their modest little heads are jammed together in bunches as big as sunflowers and they are considered correc upon the Lenten worshiper at any servi The fancy for violets will not limit itself to this time of sackcloth and ashes, how- ever. Many of the Easter hats are made aimost entirely of violets. Violet straws and gauze of the same tint as the flowers il be hard to distinguish from the real blossoms in the early spring hats. Violets will be a proper color in the spring and summer goods, also pale green; and in- deed the tints in the products of art will fol- low in nature's wake very close. Violet linings and facings give a Lenten appearance to what one might call a secular gown. Chinchilla fur, being gray, is another variety of “sackcloth,” and,’ considering that one cannot buy a good-sized fluted col- lar for it for less than $125, one need not feel so very deleful about wearing it. Bustles will undoubtedly be worn by many, but most people will take advantage of the new fashion that is coming in to put a little fullness into the top of the skirt. The summer materials require this, and the indications are that the fullness will start very near the front and be pretty evenly dis- tributed around the sides and back. Among the new things for the neck are satin chemisettes with satin stocks and those small bows in front. The chemisettes have a row of tiny pearl or gold buttons down the middle. s Buttons for trimming will be as popular as ever—large enamel and paste ones for fancy dresses, small gold or silver ones for ordinary wear. A pretty bicycle suit of green and gray mixed goods was trimmed with small silver buttons from cap to leg- gings. The bonnets on exhibition have long tles of wide Dresden ribbon or tulle. _——— FELINE EMOTIONS. Contrary to General Belief, Cats Are Capable of Facial Expression, From Temple Bar. If the sentiment of the moment was love of her master or mistress (the only per- sons to whom she ever attached herself), it was the deep, unutterable gaze which we know in the dog. If it was love of her kittens, there was a tenderness and pride which made maternal fondness in the hu- man face seem tame and foolish. If it was jealousy—and, like most animals, she wus jJealous—the term “green-eyed” monster had its full significance, for her irises, which were amber color, changed their hue entirely; her pinkish nose and ears blanch- ed, her face grew peaked, nearly triangular —in fact, she looked detestable. But if it was anger or hatred—and Princess was a gocd hater—her head flattened like a snake’s, her jaw took the lines of a tiger's in miniature, and she had the face of a devil. There were other emotions which she ex- pressed not less vividly—eagerness in pur- suit of prey, for she was a great mouser, and soon cleared the house of mice, and kept the garden free of moles; here there was nothing savage, only a look of intense keenness, alertness and pleasure; wisttul- ness, as when she wandered round the out- side of the house in winter, looking for an open door or window; despair, when her kittens were taken from her, or when she saw the preparations for a journey in my room; contentment, when she lay on the table in the.evening between her master and mistress, her paws tucked under her, her eyes half closed, her small pink mouth half open, showing her little white teeth in a genuine smile. It was not the mere cozy, comfortable aspect of an ordinary cat; it was a look of beatitude. We never called anyone's attention to the smile, not wishing to be set down as idiots, but friends occasionally discovered it for them- selves and exclaimed upon it. I have notic- ed that many cats smile; they do not grin like a dog, or as horses sometimes do, but they smirk for half an hour together. Some cats have a strong sense of fun, and are practical jokers like monkeys. Princess and Czarina had this quality, notably, and their faces expressed it, but Without a mo- tion of the risible muscles. The cat's smile means satisfaction. ————__+e+_____ New Place to Carry a Watch. From the New York Herald. A pretty woman wore her watch—well, where do you suppose? In her neck. Who but a pretty woman would think of putting it In such a place? As the youngsters say, she was “a stunner!” One of her fellow passengers in the stage dared to reveal in her countenance that she thought a white satin neckband was a queer place for a watch. The owner of the tiny gold time- piece, which was not Jarger than & medium- sized button, was of the brilliant brunette type, and I've seen a mettlesome black Pony’s eyes flesh as hers did when she lift- ed her hand and jerked out of her soft satin stock her watch. She tucked it ba a quarter of an inch beyond the turn Sf er exquisite chin, and the bice eled fob chain, with its tiny dangled. unobtru- sively just below the throat band of the white satin vest that completed her tremely modish attire, — GOLD AND BLACK Some of the Tendencies in Spring and Summer Hats, NARROW RIBBONS USED IN Bld BOWS Description of the Styles Noted ina Parasol Opening. THE TAILOR-MADE GIRL ITY THE SORROWS P: a poor “picture play” man! There 1s one such in this town today, most unhappy. He is pro- ducing a play or story to be read by himself and illustrated by pictures thrown upon a lantern screen. Those pictures he gets by photograph- ing real people in real costumes against real it is a tremendous task, and backgrounds. only one man in the country has yet found the energy or developed the many-sided genius necessary to accomplish it. Him I have thrown into an agony of apprehension by my article of last week, hinting at the possibility of tae new sleeve. You can’t re- dress a photographed woman like a live one. If a mere man with a camera can be agi- tated by the menace of the new sleeve, con- sider what must be the sou! waves of un- certainty surging through the bosoms of the half million professional and twenty million amateur milliners of the land! What a waste of emotion! For so often the appre- hension fs unfounded, or the appearance of the new mode premeture or tentative. For my part, if I were q man with a camera or a woman with a needle, I'd still make the sleeves big; and sleep sound o’ nights. The new sleeve may be coming; it certainly looks that way. But it doesn’t take long to wear out a dress, and the present mode will die hard. There is less uncertainty about hats, be- cause the record making and pace setting hats come all ready made from Paris, and they are now nearly all made or planned, both for spring and summer. Toque, shade and picture hat—much as it has been, the hat will be. A beautiful imported hat called the butterfly, to translate its French name, is a toque of jet and spangles, trimmed in front on the brim with six roses, white, pink and yellow. At the back is a large black silk bow, divided by a high quilling of cream colored lace. Before the bows on either side are arranged rays of odd end-tufted feathers. A buckle of emeralds and rhine- stones gleams and flashes in front, and there are two more roses on either side. ‘A fancy straw hat bears about the brim a decoration of quilled drapery of apple-green silk and emerald green tulle. There's a y—somehow the word doesn’t seem quite appropriate—of tiny red apples, with their clustering leaves, tied with a bow of black velvet, and there's a big bunch of violets at the back. These horticultural and pomological exhibitions sometimes caus one to “dilate with the wrong emotion. And much do I prefer to them, Parisian though they be, and hence to be reverenced, a simple wide shade hat with a bow of lace and a net veil. And, worn above a pretty face, 'twere pretty hat enough. The prevailing tendencies in hats, the Zeit Geist thereof, are, from the Parisian stand- point, easily stated. The use of the aigrette is strongly in favor, and it will continue to be as much of a favorite as the past. Black will be much used—and this is true of the making of gowns as well—but there will be alleviating circumstances, and chief among these, gold. Gold embroidery, or black gauze veined with streaks of gold, plumage powdered with gold dust, and the sheer bai barism of gold buckles and crescents will prove that silver cannot have things all its own way. Much of the new ribbon trim- ming for hats and gowns alike will be woven with threads or strands of gold, and the same device will be introduced into the plaiting of straws. The frilled and quilled arrangements of gauze or net, the “poufs” and aigrettes, will be eminently suitable to the spring and summer season. Even quite heavy stuffs will be so treated, gossamer, lisse, muslin, crepe, chiffon, tulle or net for instance. Wide lace bow ties, fastened at one side, are likely to be popular, but it is less easy_to prophesy upon this dubious ground. Ribbons so narrow are used for bows so big that they are sometimes wired, like bargain sale roses. A better device is to provide a bow of muslin or net with a sewn-on edge of narrow ribbon to keep it from becoming discourage® Hat ribbons are woven with two faces, by way of con- trast, and gauze ribbons are now made striped with satin or silk, or with lines in gold pattern interwoven. Small patterned oriental and Dresden designs are commonly and there is a tendency to tilt hats down over the eyes of the fair wearers. It is not a new discovery that a pretty girl looks pretty-in black, or anything else. If she be a pretty young widow, with a face a trifle saddened or sobered by a glimpse at’ the stern realities, black has a new mean- ing, of course. One of the prettiest mourn- ing dresses I have seen Is a perfectly plain black skirt of lusterless silk, a bodice cov- ered with dotted black net and big sleeves covered also with net. Big sleeves look somehow incongruous with the idea of bit- ter grief, but such is life! And I did no more than note the incongruity, for the young widow’s gompanion was a pretty girl ins lous and showy gown, also black, with a plain skirt, a velv. Square jow coraage, narrow shoulder strap§, and below them, after an appreciable and appreciated 29, 1896-TWENTY-FOUR PAGES, : it of whit Shack rin iemighe, ‘aotfoa with Yet ae liver ornaments jn snaky = one nich ones sinuous way an wn the ponies nd re were Jou Sar row Y-j of . Yel reaching onP the waist, the Pints bordered wit! rows of close-set 0; its, and below the waist the basque of Righly ornamented vel: vet, shot at the sides, went down at front into two long points.~ zs ‘These short-skirte have lost little of ably at least a third e street gowns and one-sixth of the eveping frocks are made with them, and they influence to their own jaunty shape a respectable portion of the arises sackets: oe ‘urious indeed is a spring opening of para- sols héld during a anhwatora but stranger sights are seen nowadays. The flounced parasol is in high fayor. It may be draped with chiffon, caught back at the alternate ribs to reveal the silk beneath. It may be covered and double flounced with silk and bear a bunch of violets at the end of each rib. Sometimes a square of dotted muslin is overlaid upon it, and sometimes each rib ig outlined. with a roll of lace flouncing. Many of these parasols of the season seem too fussy and elaborate, but we shall all get used to them; never fear. Meanwhile the cloak is still comfortable, and it is still made of velvet and fur, if one can get them. And the tailor-made girl with the mascu- line shirt front, displayed with greater atandon than is ever the shirt front mascu- line, 1s preparing to burst again upon our vision, ELLEN OSBORN. ——._—_ Welsh Rarebit Recipe. Should you ask me, friend and actor, Whence the flavor of the rabbit, Warnee its odor and its smoothness, Whence its subtle fascination?” Z should answer, I should tell you:— “From the method of its mixture, From the choice of its ingredieuts, And the time of introduction, This the way to make a rabbit: ques, by the way, popularity. Prob- © « ‘Give me or your cheese, O grocert Good fresh datry cheese domestic— Cheese quite fresh, not old and moldy,! Cut tt then in dainty fragments— Fragments cut in sizes eqiis Tight the spirit lamp and place tt ‘Neath the blazer, brightly gleamings Then a lump of butter placing In the blazer, watch it creaming, Creaming in tho heated blaze ‘Then with deftness add the substance— Creamy substance, cut in fragments, ‘Then when {t doth meit-and thicken, Pour o& ale—the ale called Bass’; Gently add in scanty spsoufuls, Lest you chill the substance me Always stirring, stirring ing— When the cheese to heat surrenders, Drop into this dish so t ‘Two teaspoonfuls, meas: » Only two of good, dry This you aéd to keep d frim ‘dyspepsia, from p. All this while Keep up th stirring, stirring t mustard, ulekly b gay Ale or And delay Plates at be: spok! eeret of the WELCH. A DAINTY DELFT BOUDOIR Delightful Effects Produced in Blue and All the Furnishings to Match—Winé- ‘mills on Sofa Pillows—Quaint anal Old Dutch Ware. — The pretty debutante of '96 does not con- fine herself to Delft china. She has lovely Delft effects in every bit of decoration in her room. The rugs on her floor ar® eithter white lambs’ skins lined with Delft blue felt or Japanese blue and white jute that exactly reproduce the colors of the old Holland ware. Her curtains—and her windows are low and filled with diamond-shaped panes—are fine India lawn, caught up with Delft blue ribbon, the draperies and valance on the bed are of the quaintest, white chintz, with borders representing windmills and old, old Dutch houses. Her window seat is up- holstered with the same chintz, and there are heaps of cushiors—some in dull blue linen embroidered in white, and some in white embroidered in blue, in perfect re- prcduction of the Dutch water scenes that are so familiar on genuine Delft ware. ‘There are gcraniums, too, at the sides of the window in Delft jars, and a blue and white taburette near the window seat ‘ts piled with magazines and a work basket holding Delft embroideries. The dressing table in this dainty, cool- looking room is a symphony in blue and white. The table is white enameled wood, and on either side of the clear, oval mirror are candelabra in Delft and brass. Even on the tiny white paper shades for the candles are painted miniature reproduc- tions of Holland water scenes, and the shade on the tall Hawthorne lamp at the head of the bed is also adorned with a series of Dutch landscapes. White linen embroidered in Delft blue silk covers the dressing table. The pin- cushion is covered with boliing cloth, painted with a shadowy blue windmill, so faint in color and dutline as to seem like a reflection from fairyland. All the tollet accessories are, of course, in Deift, from the pin tray and puff box to the tall, slim bottles and manicure set. A Delft stove isnot always considered a necessity in this artistic roo. The favorite pictures for such a room are, naturally, old Delft pictures of the time of Wouvermans and Tenier, but mod- ern Delft pictures, copies of the old mas- ters, are very beautiful and quite expen- sive enough to be attractive. Ordinary Delft plaques are much cheap- er, and are used in a variety of ways— for wall decorations, as medalions In eab- inets, as card receivers and even for bon- bon dishes. On the mante! there ore large Delft bowls for roses, slender, graceful vases for long-stemmed flowers, and quaint Delft clocks fashioned like windmill The wall paper in a Delft room is the most diheult thing to mana; A cold gray, shading into olive, is an ex. cellent tone for paper in a Delft room, as is a very faint mustard yellow, like ‘the Fine Iné popular y as to alino: are preferred for this are in perfect harmony with the tious effect sought. use, and unpreten- A LENTEN GROUP. 2. CORRECT BREATHE How It is Said to Help the Siout Wo- man to Become Thinner, From the Philadelphia Record. It hes been discovered that the double chin can be banished by correct breathing. The woman with a short neck must hold her head high, even stretching her neck until conscious of the tension of the cords. She should also practice dropping her head and letting it roll listlessly about. ‘This will give a graceful poise to the head, and the exercise of muscles will help consume the extra amount of fat. Lung exercises in breathing are the best exercises for ex- cessive stoutness. , The best time for this is before dressing in the morning and after undressing at night. Five or ten minutes’ exercise every day will reduce the flesh in a wonderfully short time. Stand erect, with the head and chin well up, and rise upon the toes at each inspiration, holding the breath a moment, then expelling it forcibly, coming down upon the heels at the same time. Another good breathing exercise is to draw in a full, deep breath. Retain the breath while counting fifteen and then slowly expel it. Sometimes stout women move arms gracefully, but the body has an utter lack of liberty and free motion or suppleness. Drawing her corsets tighter never did make a stout woman less stout in appearance. The first care is not to lace too tightly; the second is to banish all idea of being stout from your mind, and let the muscles have as free play as possi- ble. All women #an learn to use their bodies gracefully, even if there is a pre- disposition to stoutness. Stout woien are often the lightest dancers, and there is no reason why they should not be grace- ful in pose and motiol# If a woman draws her breath freely from the bottom of her lungs she diminishés*the effect of her size immediately by doiug away with that ready-to-burst look that is generally asso- ciated with stoutness. That is the look that must be avoided, even if the waist measures an inch or So more and the bust and shoulders gain a little. His Calculation. From Puck, Inspector— preservers.” Steamboat Man—“Oh, I guess there are enough for the people who would think of them in an emergency.” ——__+o+___ A Frank Admission, “You don’t carry enough life- From Life. Mrs. Jones—‘No. I couldn't give you any- thing. It is too plain fhat fou are a drink- ing. man.” A The Tramp—‘“True, madam, I don’t deny "it, but I’m trying to save up enough to take the gold cure.” WHITE AND BLACK CRAVATS. In Former Times They Were Badges of the Wearer's Profession, From the Boston Transcript. Years ago the white tie in this country was the characteristic wear of the rev- erend clergy, their monopoly. Thence it passed into general use and disputed pop- ularity with the black. The black neck- cloth was early in this century likewise a professional badge. Those who followed the profession of arms claimed the right to wear it as their monopoly, and sometimes enforced that right. Cooper, in “Wing-and- Wing,” makes a very dramatic use of this custom, A French privateer captain In dis- guise has fallen into the hands of the English, and is brought before a court- martial. So skillfully does he stick to his assumed character of a fisherman that his judges are puzzled until one of his ac- cusers suddenly places around the pris- cner’s throat the black neckcloth which all officers wore. Then his true character blazes forth and he ts condemned, but es- capes execution to die sword in hand. Cooper knew what he was writing about, for ne, tco, had been an officer. Military and naval men wore black cra- vats when in plain clothes, and civilians aped them until black became the only wear. Before the rise of the black cravat, carelessly tied white lace, the Steenkirk, had been in vogue for neckwear. Its popu- larity likewise was a civilian tribute to military valor. At the battle of Steenkirk the French Royal Guards, the Household troops, being suddenly called from their tents to meet the oncoming English, had no time to tie their rich lace cravats with their accustomed neatness, and loosely knotted them about thelr throats. They were the dandies of Europe, the perfect pinks of military propriety, and were cor- respondingly brave. They did up the Eng- lish in about one round, and thenceforward the Steenkirk cravat was the ‘ashion, and the more carelessly it was knotted the more Steenkirky it was. e As white is now the color of peace, may not the psychologist be justified in hailing snowy cravats as evidences of man’s recog- nition that peace hath her victories not less fashionable than those of war and as Worthy of belng commemorated at the neck?" ——_ce+__. Safe. From the Cleveland Post. a “Bah! It’s the veriest nonsense,” snapped Jonathan Yack. “What is?” inquired C. A. Nuck. “Oh, this palayer of Miles about the un- fortified and defenseless condition of our lake cities—~’ “Isn't it true? “True? Why, the street brigades could scrape up earthworks enough on the streets in two hours’ time to defy the artillery of the world! . mee : HOUSEHOLD HINTS Here is what a sensible woman says about serving food In large quantity: “One of the chief causes of of food is the system, at both public and private tables, of giving excessively Iarge portions, so that much food is left untast bly in private familles a third-or fourth of the whole amount spent for foods is thus thrown away. Furthermore, we err in providin, too great a variety of food for a single meal ‘When a long lst of courses ts offered no one can fully enjoy all. Let us have less food at once, but let it be the best of its kind and cooked in the most scientific manner.” It is said that lukewarm water and fine soap will remove fats from fast-colored cot- tons and linens, while tar and wagon grease will yleld to lard rubbed on, then soaped and allowed to lie for an hour or so. Afterward wash alternately in water and spirits of tur- pentine. Here is a nice Lenten dish: Put in the chaf- ing dish one tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of Pepper and a little celery salt. Add one pint of oysters and cook two minutes, until th edges begin to curl. Have ready hot sli of toast, buttered, upon which serve the oysters, adding a little hot water, if neces- sary. Another is made of lobster. Cut up as for salad. Put it in one-half pint of milk and let it boll up once. Add a tablespoontul of butter, pepper and a small pinch of salt, and let it simmer gently. Serve on crackers. “Catch-up work” is the destruction of many a woman, So many careful Marthas think that they must not sit a moment idle, but must always be doing something. Cro- chet work, knitting, a bit of embroidery, or a hem to turn, in their busy hands is always some piece of work, if perchance they get a moment to sit down. You whose nerves are worn to a wire edge just try sitting down for ten minutes three or four times a day and folding your hands in perfect idleness while you shut your eyes to rest them. It will prove almost as good as a rest cure. When burdens press hard, think of some one-who is worse off than you are, and then count up your blessings. ‘The other day a mother was bemoaning the fact that her half-grown daughter was getting round shouldered and must be out into corsets. How she supposed that stays that would squeeze her waist in would af- fect ner child’s shoulders is not explained. What the girl really needed was a good, wholesome, hearty outdoor life that will give her an appetite for food and healthy sleep. Then as she gains strength she will it straight and her shoulders will flatten, while her chest will round out, all uncon- scious to herself. Just now the salt in the cellars gets damp and refuses to shake out, to the exaspera tior. of those who want to use it. Mix a little cornstarch, say a teaspoonful to half a cup of salt, with the salt and put in the salt cellars and the stuff will shake out all right. Burning coffee that has been ground fine is said to be a thorough disinfectant. Hea shovel to white heat and sprinkle the coffee upon it and carry through the house, letting the aroma fill all the rooms. Apple cream is pretty good eating. Boil the apples whole after pealing and coring tl ey are soft, then press through a add a gencrous quantity of white ar and the juice of one lemon. Beat the of two or three eggs to a stiff d to the apples, beat all until white iff and serve in giass dishes. Use vaseline on the baby’s shoes instead of blacking, will come off on the small skirt cline on at night. Ii will be well dried in by morning and will soften the leathe: How shall soap bark be used? is often queried. Pour a quart of boiling water over 5 cents’ worth of soap bark, and steep gently for two hours, keeping the heat low that the water may not be much reduced. Strain the liquid through a cheese cloth > in an earthen ware bowl. The terial to be treated should be ripped apart and all the threads removed and lint hed off. Lay the pi on a smooth d or table and sponge thoroughly on giving particular attention to spots. After each piece has been lay across the end of the table and when all have been cleaned rinse in clear cold water, wring and hang in the shade, and iron on wrong side. > CRUDE DENTISTRY. The Process Wax Painful, but the Re- it Wan Atinined. From the San Francisco Post. “While traveling in southern Georgia a few months ago,” said Attorney W. W. Me- “I saw a beautiful piece of dental surgery. A teamster developed a toothache while on the road. He thought it would soon be better, but it kept getting worse and worse, till he could hardly handle the reins. He put a chew of tobacco on it, but it only jumped the harder. Then he stop- ped his team, built a little fire, heated a needle red hot, and had another teamster jam it down into the cavity to Kill the nerve. Still it jumped and thamped till the poor fellow was pretty near insaz “Bi she's got to come out,’ he shouted to his companions, as he pulled up his team. “They all stopped, wound thelr lines around their brakes and climbed down. ““*How can we get her out?’ asked one of them. ““I don't know,” groaned the victim, ‘but she's got to come.’ He opened the jockey box on his seat and rummaged around in it, finally pro- ducing a small hatchet and a big nail. ss you'll have to drive her out with this,’ said he,and he sat dowa on the ground and hung on to a buckeye bush with both hands, while one of his compan- ions placed the end of the nail against the side of the tooth and hit with the hatchet. The first lick made the teamster jump and yell, but he settled down for another one. ‘The second stroke loosened it up, and after a lot of groaning the teamster wiped the perspiration off his face, climbed on to the buekeye and said: “Hit her again, boys.’ ‘The third lick sent the offending molar flying.” —————— AMERICAN WOMEN. Described by Mr. Hall Caine—Com- parisons With English Women. From the Providence Journal. Mr. Hall Caine says of his stay in the United States: “Many of my impressions of America, by the way, toppled down like a child's house of cards when I found myself actually in the country and among the people. A delightful nation to study is America—fresh and frank and full of orig- inality. Of course, we all know and have always known, for the last century, at least, that Americans are clever; but we can't realize until we go among them and see them in their homes how kindly, how young of heart, they are as individuals.” Of American women in general he deems “{t Is only natural they should have be- come what thcy are—superior, intellectual- ly, or, at any rate, superficially so, to the men. That is, of ccurse, as a class. Ther are always so many exceptions to every rule, But the thing has come about as a consequence of man’s putting woman— American man, American woman—on a pedestal, and worshiping her. He has stay- ed below the pedestal and worked for her, not having time, if he was the ordinary man of business, to cultivate his mind and manner while he so worked. But she has had plenty of time, and she has made the best use of it. In our country I consider that the reverse is the truth. The average Englishman is superior to the average Eng lishwoman in intelligence and education. That is because he ts likely to think of himself, and of his sons, before he thinks of his wife and daughters. And English women have conscientiously upheld him in his attitude toward them, until compara- tively lately, at any rate. In America, on the contrary, I fancy that women have known their own value, and set it rather high, for a number of years—a couple of generations, at least.” In personal appear- ance Mr. Caine finds our women “‘prettie more attractive, more bewitching, than English women, but not so regularly beau- tiful. The straight, almost Greek nose, and the ineffably lovely and haughty upper lip of the mcst perfect type of English girl I have not seen equaled in America, I must say.” The Chestnut Detective. From Puck. Miss Meanitall—“I suppose you jot down all the bright things you hear said?” Squibleigh—“Most decidedly.” Miss Meanitall—“And then write them afterward?” Squibleigh—“Oh, no! avoid writing them. They've all been written before.” THE MOST SKEPTICAL Must Banish All Their Doubts and Fears When Confronted With Such Testi my to Merit as That Herein Given, Tt {s simply astovishing how many unsolicited of Dr. Chercot's Kola Nervine Tab- lets are daily received. Surely no remedy ever took such a hold upon the people and never was such esrnest faith in a specific shown, As un example, here are a few from Boston alone, and all received within two days: r Chas, A. Hallowell of the West End Drug Store, 165 Cambridge st., writes: “I find Dr. Char- cot’s Kola Nervine ‘Tablets the best selling tonle on the market. ‘These who have used them are mere than satisfied with their efficiency. My per- sonal experience and the testimony of those helped and cured warrant me in stating that they are most effective in restoring vigor snd removing all nervous conditions.”* Joseph A. Craig is the proprietor of the large barber shop at 29 Howard st., and says: “3My wife has used Dr. Charcot’s Kola Nervine Tablets for nervousness, debilitation and loss of flesh, The rcsults are highly satisfactory. The Tablets are unequaled as a tonic I also wish to state that my foreman who has been running down for three years and has tried many remedies without bene- ficial results has been fully cured by the use of the Kola Nervine Table! Wm. H. Knight is a well-known apothe-ary located at 97 Court st., and thus testifies: “The ccostantly increasing sale of Dr. Charcot’s Kola Nereine Tablets and the favorable results reported from thelr use warrant me in stating that you have put upon the market a remedy that sells upon its merits. Kola, in this form, is most de- sirable." Hdward Clacey is chicf man in charge of Austin & Stone's famous museum, and writes: “Your Dr. Charcot's Kola Nervine Tablets have proved a great boon to me. I have been a sufferer from in- soumla for some time. The use of the Tablets has resulted in almest instent relief. It is @ narcotics or poisonous ingredients of any Kind used in this wonderful remedy. It stimulates the functicns and restores health and leavee no trace of anything but good behind. Fifty cents and $1.00 per box (one month's treatment). See Dr. Charcot’s name on box. Kola booklet free. All druggists or sent direct. Eurcka Chemical and Mfg. Co., La Crosse, Wis., and Bos- ton, Mass, & ee SHE USED HIM AS A SHIELD. She Was Fat and Therefore Sought Safety in the Only Way. From the Chicago Daily Tribune. An aged negress weighing nearly two hundred pounds, a small white man, and a Texas steer created considerable fun and a little excitement yesterday afternoon at the stock yards. The negress, with a red nubia over her head, was ambitng slowly toward the bank building, when suddenly some person rais- ed a cry that a wild steer. was loose. A moment later a big-horned fellow, with a crowd of horsemen after him, plunged west on the thoroughfare toward Halsted street. All who could made a plunge for the high fence, but the negress could not climb and the steer seemed to have her in his mind as Le wes cavorting toward her. To climb the fence was for her a physi- ical impossibility, while the chances of be- ing thrown over it were good. Just then a little man ran down the side- walk. As he reached the colored woman sh» selzed him by the shoulder and turned his face toward the steer. The big animal halted nd looked at the , So did the wor ittle man, who kicked to get »e. Just what made the steer take wac ter no, person knows, but after looking fot a momert he walked away and was soom after driven into a pen. Once sure she was free from danger tht colored woman released her Jhold on thi lite man and walked away. As sh climbed on the walk in front of the bani she said to the crowd: “Tell you wha' I was determined that maa wou! The Passing of the Big Sleeve, From the Chicago Chroni

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