Evening Star Newspaper, January 18, 1896, Page 16

16 a THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 18, 1896¢-TWENTY-FOUR PAGES. ABOUT SMALL WAISTS Various Reasons Why They Are Not So Much the Fashion. A POINTER ABOUT TEA GOWNS fgets Interesting Novelties in Ribbons and What They Are. BOME NEW FABRICS LADY WAS TALK- ing to a corset manu- facturer the other day, and he told her that women were growing more sengj-| ble every day. That they no longer bought corsets indiscrimin- ately,paying for them what was asked, but had them tried on and : fitted just as a dress waist is fitted, and that they bought larger sizes tlian of old. The eighteens and twenties are very seldom called for now, and twenty-twos and fours have taken their place. Surely that is 2 healthy sign of the times. Of course, you still see a few women who are s> silly as to think that a small waist is a mark of gentility, but they are so few as te be almost unnoticed. It is tennis and golf, riding and rowing, that have made- this delightful change, and ‘‘man milliners,” as they are called. The great men dress- makers positively refuse to make wasp waists for their customers, and as the craze for men dressmakers grows It is safe to pre- dict that the healthy woman is coming to stay for awhile. It may be that large sleeves and blouse effects in bodices have had something to do with this sensible fashion, for both tend to lessen the apparent size of the waist, and so long as the waist “looks” smail that is all that is necessary. ‘There is a new effect in sleeves, by the way. The “bishop” sleeve is made very full, with all the gathers or plaits in a bunch on top, and rows of tucks run around the sleeve near the elbow. The cuff is deep and very flaring. and lies back over the full lower sleeve, with long points, which are made prettier by full ruffles of lace. Another pretty effect in neck and wrist trimming is found in a very wide strip of sheetest mull, which is trimmed on both edges with insertion and border of fine lace. ‘The immerse fullness is then caught down under longitudinal bands of insertion io fit the neck, leaving a high ruff up under the ears. The cuffs are treated in exactly the same manner. To wear with a black and white satin or silk this would be particular- ly pretty, and as an addition to a black satin gown it would be most artistic. Ladies are depending more and more on such effects to brighten up an old gown, or change a somber one into festive attire. Using an Evening Dress. One of the ecoromical methods of turning a decollete bodice int» a daylight affair—for of course it is not the proper caper to wear | “low neck” before dinner any more than it is for 2 man to don evening dress before !candle light’—is to make an extensive , bertha or collarette of rows of velvet and ;Jet, border it with a deep fall cf lace or chiffon, and put it on over the low-necked bodice, which it will hide completely if you make it iarge encugh. Biack velvet and |white lace combine beautifully for this purpose, or white satin and black lace. Now that the season of teas is in full swing, handsome tea gowns are the fad of the hour among the smart set. Velvet is | the popular fabric, because yelvet has a richness and a regal kind of an appearance 'that every woman loves. A particularly elegant tea gown that a handsome woman | will grace is of carnation velvet in princess style that has a mediaeval appearance and effect, caused by the manner of adjusting the trimming. It fits the figure closely un- ltl the front is reached, and there is a big single plait falling loosely to the feet, and ‘e border of fur goes clear around the train. jhe odd little point in front is of white vel- [vet, bordered with fur, and the inner sleeves are of white satin, the long ribbons in front being satin-faced white velvet. | One of the oddly handsome features of the | gown is the long outside sleeves, which end jin @ point at the side and are lined with ‘satin and finished with long bows and ends of satin. {|_ What is it that makes the daughters of Eve admire snakeskin? One would think that they would want to get as far away from it as possible; but, on the contrary, every woman who can afford it is wearing snakeskin somewhere about her person. Bags and purses, card cases and belts, the backs of gift books, toilet accessories and everything else that a woman can get cov- ered with snakeskin goes. The skin has ¢ome to ccst as much as Russia leather, and “snake farms” are now. much more luable as revenue producers than wheat farms. It is worthy of note that no woman of the swell set has yet taken to wearing a tanned rattler’s hide around her hat, as the Mexicans do, but that will probably be the ginning of the end of a not very pretty fashion at best. The skin takes a high polish and is as durable as alligator skin. Some Details. A word of warning to women who have no maids to atterd to the little niceties of the wardrobe: Pay more attention to the absolute cleanliness of the arm shields! It seems strange that such a warning should be necessary, but undoubtedly there are women who think that they have done | their whole duty when they have provided their dressmakers with the best snields, and that they can be worn unchanged till the gown. wears out. A greet fallacy. If a gown is worn very often, the shi should be changed at least once a month. A nice way to perfume a gown is to have between the shields and the gown a thin pad of wadding in which is some of your choicest perfume powder. Don't, for the love of humanity, ekey club and | musk and lilies of the vaiiey on the per- | fume ped, for that will bs worse than the soiled shields for odor. Adopt some deli- cate perfumed root, and have it ground and use it always. Violet scents are liked by some, but there are scores of people who detest it, and who turn faint at a Svyhiff of the Napoleonic flower. Select something that te spley rather than cloy- ie ee ee ee with real silver and gold thread, and have heavy designs in velvet thrown upon them in exquisite perfection of coloring. And they cost! Whew! what would Then, you think of a bright purple taffeta rib- ben with pretty pink apple blossoms form ing a stripe through It, or a brilltant yel- low with bunches of ‘cherries tled with pele green dotting its lensth; or white velvet ribbon with inlet bunches of pink reses brocaded in satin? All these fancics in sash and narrow ribbons you can find or the counters of the shops. They don't stand out where the “common herd” can handle and price. Not much! They are “behind closed doors,” ani when madame comes along and wants something par- ticularly elegant in ribbon garniture they are brought forth and shown her under the glare of gas light so that she may know exactly what the effect will be when she wears them. A New Fabric. Te go with these ribbons something new in chiffon had to be invented, so there came the rich ruby 1ed, with dots of bril- Nant red stone and all-over beading of ruby-like stones. Also spangled effects in all colors over chiffon ‘of contrasting shades. Mousselaine de soie comes now in moire effects, and.the ensemble over silk of a contrasting shade is most rich and striking. Both of these fabrics also come embroidered in self colors or contrasting, and have ruffling especially provided to go with them. For a strikingly new conception in jew- eled effects, this Henry Deux toilet will catch a good many admirers. It is built of pale green broadcloth, with an odd drapery effect in front, caught up with gold buckles set with colored stones. The bodice is perfectly plain and down the front is a wice band of gold passementerie set with colored stones and bordered with jet. About the waist is a belt of fine French gilt woven into a flexible band. The hat is of black velvet, with buckles to match those on the gown, and a pale green aigrette tipped with colored spangles. The collar of the gown is of white satin, with jetted points falling over it in front. + 20 SOME COSTLY THIMBLES. Dainty Forms for This Necessary Ad- junct of a Work Basket. From Harper's Bazar. The modern girl is not supposed to take much interest in sewing, unless at sew- ing classes, and yet @ thimble, which is cer-. tainly useful for nothing else but sewing, is indispensable to every woman's happiness. One hundred and twenty-five dollars does seem a good deal of money, even in these days of luxury, and yet that is the price paid for some mest elaborate specimens of the jeweler’s art. Of course these are jew- els and precious stongs, and the founda- tion is of gold, so that, after all, perhaps the sum asked is not excessive, but it cer- tainly seems so. Turquoises are favorite stones for thim- bles,but pearls and diamonds are also used. Of course very costly jewels are impossible, for there is very little room to put them in. as the sides and top of the thimble are on- ly for use. Enamel work in blue or gold is exceedingly pretty on thimbles, and mot- toes in moet dainty lettering are often to be seen. The fact that the mottoes bear little reference to the object seems to have little weight. “Toujours a vous” is the fa- vorite inscription, and it is certainly am- biguous enough to suit all occasions. Even those people who like to joke at sentiment fail to laugh at the old gold thimbles of their grandmothers—the metal worn out in courtless places,and all stamp- ed with the signs of vee. Grandfather's clock and the old arm chair have had their day, and it is high time that grandmother's thimble was immortalized in rhyme. Now that silver is so cheap, silver thim- bles are possible for almost every one; and as celluloid also fs used for thimbles, the brass ones, which brought so much suffer- ing in the way of-sore fingers, are rapidly passing out of existence. There are one or two thimbles in this city of New York which are veritable heir- looms. One, of carved ivory, yellow with age, ic said to have belonged to Mary Queen of Scots, and the proud possessor of it insists she can prove it really was the property of the Scottish queen. What stor- ies could it not tell, that small piece of discolored ivory! In this day, when collections are the fad of the times, it would seem that a collec- tion of thimbles would be most interesting. Fashions have changed very little, but the shapes are by no means identical, and what are known as tailors’ thimbles, and have no tops, were at one time made of gold or silver, and even studded with jewels. Tiny pearls on gold thimbles is a favorite fash- ion, albeit a’ very perishable one, for such smaJl stones can uever be set sufficiently deep to make them auite secure; besides, pearls and turquoise become discolored very quickly when in constant use. Ivory thimbles have not been in fashion for many generations, and those which are now shown as heirlooms are exceedingly clumsy, and do not look as though they could have been very comfortable. The celluloid thimbles have proved a good investment. They are quite ligt, and generally well made; their principal draw- back is that they seem after a time to get very bot and uncomfortable—a feature which gold and silver ones fortunately do not possess. There is one use to which thimbles have been put which is not generally known, and that is to make the ends of the fingers taper, and in the stern days of long ago many a young girl was forced to sleep with each finger securely fixed in a tightly fitting thimble of silver or gold. The rem- edy is said to have been efficacious. ————__+e+—___ Through a Plate Glass Window. From the Galveston Daily News. This morning a gentleman from the coun- try came to Belton, having some turkeys in his wagon. Shortly after he drove upon the court house sqvare one of his turkeys got loose, hopped out of the wagon, and started acrors the square toward the opera house. The man and his dog started after it full tilt. The race was a pretty one. By the time the turkey got to the opera house it was doing its best, half-running and half flying. The front of the lower story of the opera house is filled with fine, large French plate glass windows, and when the turkey arrived at these he did not notice the ob- struction nor stop for it, but went through it as if it were not there. It broke a large hole in the window, but that did not im- pede the progress of the turkey. It lost a few feathers, but when captured did not seem to be otherwise injured. The glass in the window was fully a quarter of an inch in thickness. * —_ eae Aluminum Utensils for Army Use. From Knowledge, The aluminum vessels now in use in the French army are found to wear very little. They can be heated over gas and coal, and are not attacked by the food and wine, etc., as the food does not remain long in the vessels. Flasks in which ordinary wa- ter is kept for months show whitish spots near specks of impurities—iron, carbon, ete., and on the soldered portions if other metals have been admixed. The vessels are made simply by stamping, without soldering, except at the handles. In salt water corresion of the metal proceeds more quickly than in fresh water; it Le- comes black, but sulphuric acid restores the original brightness. {DOMESTIC ECONOMY Pauline Pry ‘Tells How It is Taught as a Science. A DAY AT DREIEL The Servant Problem Not Solved by Higher Education. WOMAN NOT BENEFITED Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. (Copsrighted.) HAVE SPENT TWO days this week with the new cook at Drexel Institute and I have eaten of the fruits of her genius. Now, I am out with a burning brand of truth to destroy the man who has said there is nothing in domestic science but cranks. Let him taste graduate soup, post-graduate fish balls, or even freshman baking powder bis- cuit-—but that is ahead of my story. ‘The domestic science school of Drexel In- stitute is a representative one. Thus, what I have here seen and learned of the com- ing Mary Ann is something on which to base"a general hope of the future of our kitchens. Candidly, I confess that my two days’ ex- perience in “domestic science as she is taught” hes left me with the impression that the new cook is a long way from home, and more than likely to be lost en route in a labyrinth of pedagogics. My reasons for believing this are: - Not for the Home. Girls who undertake a complete course in domestic science do so with the intention of applying their knowledge not in the home, but in an institution, either as a teacher or as a matron. There is further- more so little intelligent appreciation. of the possibilities and purposes of domestic science manifest among women that an exceedingly limited number are willing to spend two years in completing a course of instruction. But three girls will graduate at Drexcl this year, and the junior class nvmbers only five. This perhaps is partly due to the autocratic power exercised by the director, who rejects any applicant for admission whom she believes to be unquaii- fied in any way to become a teacher, the highest aim of the school being to produce teachers. ‘There is a special course for housekeep- ers, which is, however, confined to theoreti- cal and practical ccokery, and thus affords ®. woman no more adequate knowledge of the whole subject of domestic science than studying the multiplication tables alone makes a mathematician. Courses for domestic servants have been devised, but the director has found them ursuccessful, servants being satisfied with what they knew, and satisfied, moreover, that if ¢+he mistress who pays for their scientific training doesp’t like what they accomplish, they have only to “give no- tice,” and some other mistress will be glad erough to get them. A Fad for Fashivnables. I asked Miss Spring, director of the sckool, what she considers the most prom- ising result of her work. She answered: “The zeal with which it has been taken up by feshionable women. Anything new works down in society. ccme a fad, when it will r This raised the quostion in my ming: Hew much of demestic science ts a fad, and when the fad is exhausted, what will remain for the serious uses of woman? The Two Objects. ‘The ends to be served by a domestic sci- ence are clearly these: To reduce the cost of living. ‘To reduce the burden of woman’s work. This latter is not a sentimental considera- tion. The volume of woman’s work in the home has positive, if not immediate, eco- nomic value. Overworked women tend to increase the cost of living, not alone through expense incurred by sickness, but also through mismanagement of the home, un- avoidably resulting from physical disability of the housewife. Moreover, the burden of woman’s work indirectly conditions the effi- ciency of labor, in that men born of ex- hausted mothers are necessarily lacking in health and vitality. So far as I have been able to learn at Drexel, popular education in domestic science takes cognizar.ce only of the need of reducing the cost of living, and this. not comprehensively, inasmuch as teaching how to construct a dietary that shall fur- nish a meal limited the cost of material to, say, twenty-five cents, provides only for the assembling of tho raw material. The cost of actually producing the meal, which has its largest expression in the labor put into it, gets no consideration, and my ob- servation is that domestic science, as she is taught, tends to increase rather than diminish the volume of woman’s work. Only More Responsibilities. Means of prevention against bacteria, personal assurance gained in the matter of frod adulterations, the nice steps, exact measurements, strict methods of scientific cookery—all this which domestic sclence prescribes, means for the housewife so many more responsibilities resting upon her mind and so many more demands upon her energy ard time. In homes where the in- come would admit this would have the effect of increasing the number of servants, and thus adding to the expense of the household. In homes where one pair of. bands must do everything practical appli- cation of demestic science as academically administered is simply impossible. Not Trained for Housework. I asked Miss Spring if she thought any of her graduates would be able to proceed scientifically, set down in the kitchen of a middle-class home, with all the work of the household devolving upon her, and Miss Spring quickly assured me that the young women who graduate in domestic science have no intention of doing house- work—they are too ambitious and they are not trained for that. Now, it occurs to me, that until domes- tic science graduates are trained to do housework women have little to hope for in the kitchen. Unless scientific treatment of domestic problems is to render housework attractive to an ambitious woman, the do- ing of this work must remain in the nature of a favor conferred by one admittedly an inferior, who, acting as a prop on which the entire household rests, so holds her superiors at her mercy. Thus education in domestic science that does not directly bear on the volume of woman’s work, not only shoots its benefits over the heads of middle and lower class homes, but misses its opportunity in overcoming that hydra- headed monster that reigns in other homes, the servant problen. Requirements for Admission Graduation. To be admitted to the domestic science course of Drexel Institute a woman is re- quired to have a high school education or its equivalent. To graduate, she must have satisfactorily completed a two-years’ course of study, covering the follawing subjects: Junior year—Theoretical and practical cookery, household economics, chemistry (general arid qualitative), physics (heat), biology (types of animal life), human physi- ology, physical training, observation and practice in teaching. Senior year—Theoretical and practical cookery, laundry work, chemistry (quanti- tative and organic), the chemistry of foods, biology (bacteriology), hygiene and sanita- tion, economics (general principles and those applicable to social questions), his- tory and institutes of education, physical training, observation and practice in teach- ing. I asked Miss Spring if she considered these subjects to have only a pedagogic value in the study of domestic science. She replied, no, adding that she thought Let it once be- } uring that may be gi }.the fact that I | any one patron of the lunch room, the sum 7 * ‘the course would be valuable to iny woman | and a chafing dish to learn anything—a general information. as @ matter of Danger of. Pedagogics. : Right here is the root of my fear that going to be delayed by pedagogics—knowl- edge that pertains to the economy of the home is so clearly [knowledge that must be lived that any scheme of it that can be placed in the nebyigus sphere of dilletant- ism under the head of desirable information is clearly superfluous for anybody to teach and for anybody to learn. The matter of ¥Yart is, institutions that have ‘set themsel up to make domestic science graduates do not really know yet what belongs to the subject they claim to teach. For instance, in the Drexel cata- logue of the curreit/ year's work 1s the fol- lowing very impressive but quite as unin- telligible paragraph: Physics.—The -Dtgtruction in physics is given during the junior year, and is cort- fined to the theory of heat and its more common application to practice. At the close of the lectures, work begins in the laboratory and continues through the re- mainder of the term. The laboratory work, which consists of one period of two hours each week, includes the following subjects: Tkermometry, conductivity, radiation and absorption, expansion (of liquids), fusion and vapor:zation, calorimetric methods, determinations of specific heat. I asked Miss Spring what was intended to be the practical application of this, and she frankly admitted that she had found it bas nene—or so little that it will beidrepped the coming year. 4 : Danger of Producing Cranks. In the study of nutritive values and the construction of dietaries, the results are necessarily so largely empirical as to re- quire the broadest com: Sense and most comprehensive experience to make. this work profitable, and I am not sure it does not border on the dangerous, attempted to be taught in schools at its present stage of development, the danger being it will make girls cranks, and crankiness, as everybody knows, is the worst sort of hindrance to a woman's capability in any line. Prof. Atwater’s Views. - Prof. Atwater, the special agent of the government in charge of investigations of food and nutrition, says: “Of the funda- mental laws of nutrition we know as yet too little. Of the actual practice of people in their food economy our knowlédge is eqvally deficient. On this subject there are marty theories,. but comparatively: little ex- act information. The necessary researches | be costly, but until they are made many of ; the conclusions regarding the nutritive value and digestibility of food will not rest upon a sure basis of ascertained fact.” Of the construction of dietaries: Prof. Atwater says: “The whole subject is new, and the accurate investigations thus far taade, though quite considerable. when we get them all together, is far too small for satisfactory conclusions. The best we can do with our present knowledge, or, rather, lack of knowledge of the subject, is to make general estimates, with the clear under- standing that they are only rough esti- mates, and that they apply to average, rather than individual, cases. For that matter, we can never expect to reduce this question of diet'to an exact seience.!* Theory and Practice. >: I can fancy the actual experienc& of a domestic science pedagogue, primed with tw9 years’ practice in the construction of dietaries, trying to make a mah eat his due allowance of calories, awvhen al! he wants is ple, or striving ta. fll him up with. the requisite percenta fof proteids, fats and carbohydrates, . the one thing his stomach craves Id beer and @ ham sendwich, RE : Arithmetic Food Values. A Scientific lunch—room is operated in conjunction with “ghe domestic science school at Drex here the senior class is pursuirg an ‘mto the nutritive value of foods t! far as my naked eye can discern, hag fo Value whatever, save as an exercise in the arithmetic it involves. Each article ofefodd served on the bill of fare for a day is reduced to calorics, a caloric being the unif' of energy used in es- timating food vajues. This is done by the aid of the tables provided by Prof. Atwater, showing the elements and energy contained An a pound of various articles of food in gen- eral use. This friv ‘$ an amount of. fig- erally estimated ftont’ iked with a couple of Very bright girls who had been figuring for an hour on the number of calorics contained in a cottage pudding, and were not yet ready for publication, Having obtained the total number of calorics contained in the whole pudding, it was the purpose to divide It in- to a certain number of portions, then, a record being kept of the quantity eaten by of the caloricg of this and of any other ar- ticles of food taken was to be reckoned, and thus determined whether the boy or girl had had a square meal or not. ‘ Aside from the study of nutrition and dietaries made here, this lunch room fur- .nishes students at Drexel admirable prac- tice to the realities of applied domestic sci- ence. By turn, the seniors are in charge of its different branches of work, except the disagreeable dirty work, which is done by hired drudges. The seniors do the market- ing, arrange the menus,*restricted in the ex- pense to which they may go, and they do the cooking. Cooking as Taught. Cooking as taught and done at Drexel— well, I'd rather have cooked the meal I ate in the lunch room there than to have writ- ten Shakespeare. Just such keen apprecia- tion of the highest aim of woman have I, and just such relish for the way *they achieve this aim at Drexel Institute. Cookery here is taught in scientific kitch- ens that might be duplicated in a home, eliminating the provisions made for school work. The special characteristics of these Kitchens are plenty of room, light and air, and every convenience at hand. They must exert a reform influence on every one going ir.to them, they are in such marked contrast with the average kitchen, which in the very 4 sight and smell of it adds untold numbers to the horrors of housework. Model Kitchens. There are two of these kitchens, assigned, respectively, to the first and second courses in cookery. In the first of these that I en- tered, at one end stood Miss Spring’s desk and a bookcase containing kitchen litera- ture. Along half the length of the side ex- tended a great glass case, containing a food exhibit. Beyond this was a sink with dish pans and towels hung over it. A shining range stood at the further end of the room, beside it a rack, in which were hanging broilers and frying pans, the femaining space along this end being occupied by an immense ‘china closet, through the glass doors of which showed an array of very pretty china. On the walls were hung charts of a ccw, @ calf, a hog and a sheep, illustrating the different cuts of meats. The center ofthe room was taken up with the students’™desks, on the top of which, in front of each student, was a small ‘gas stove, and underneath were two shelves, holding a couple of boards, like bread boards, a scrub- bing brush, soap, salt and pepper boxes, knives, forks and spoons. In front of these desks were arranged charts showing by colored lines the a¥erage composition of daily foods. ks The mixing of ‘the and class room mea! practical character of either in appear- ance, and when! in the adjoining kitchen, similarly furnisHed, “{ joined a class of women at work’ on ‘invalid cookery, the teacher and pupils all wearing trim white aprons and jaunty caps, domestic science took on so muck of'the theatrical, I am sure a man or an old woman, looking in, would have beligved: the new cook to be doing nothing more serious than getting up her lines for @ faite or opera bouffe. On a blackboard Were written the sub- jects of the afternoon's lesson—clam juice, oyster juice, clam broth, oyster stew, egs cordial, milk punch, chocolate with whipped cream. ” 3 Instruction and Practicing. In a preliminary talk, the teacher in- structed the class in the nutritive value of each of the foregoing, and then, as an instructor of mathematics might assign rniture of a kitchen irably destroyed the ‘woman can teach. At the conclusion of the lesson the pupils washed their own dishes, and put them up. a Asie = Fate | and replacing of a few — the vent the coming Mary Ann e training students get in the Laos sbason is her sauits 30 rt io ankeh of keeping a kitchen clean. Varying . Dainty Confection to the Large “Grandmother's” Design. ‘The keynote of a woman’s costume this taught how to make a fire, ard by turns | difference what the costume is for, whether they have the caré of the range. But for all the hard, dirty work a maid is provided, the attitude of the domestic science grad- uate toward scouring and scrubbing being that of a clever candidate for United States Senator, who was charged with not being able to spell. Of course, he couldn’t spell, he said. But what of it? He'd hire some — fcol that could. A Drudge Still Needed. That the success of the new ook in the higher walks of the kitchen still requires the services of a drudge below her is not so bad apparently, until we perceive that domestic science studied in this relation to the actual conditions of the -home’ means no relief where a limited income requires a maid of all. work or the housewife her- self do everything. Baking Powder and Milk. Subsequently I joined a class of house- keepers during a lesson in baking powder. This went most elaborately into the chem- istry of the subject and was followed by a practice lesson in biscuit making. Follow- for a bridal or a tea, a christening or a funeral, a muff naturally goes with it. The muff has to match the gown, positively. That is, it must have in it some touch of the gown material or its trimming. If the gown is of velvet, then the muff is of vel- vet with some bright satin lining, and a border of fur to match that on the gown, or if the gown has no fur, then with frills of lace about the edges, or if there is a cape to match, one of those frivolous things that couldn’t cost any more mon- ey if they were made of five-dollar bills and hung with se- quins of silver dol- lars, but which in reality are velvet with a bit of satin lining and a border of sable, or ermine, or’ blue fox, then the muff follows suit, and has some of the ing this I sat with a class in the normal course and listened to @ lecture on milk, which begar with the cow, treated of its diseases, departed thence to the stable, de- terrors lurking there, then. milked the cow, after sterilizing the cens, and finally with further sugges- tions of bacteria en route deposited the milk on the doorstep of the kitchen. Thence and chemically analyzed, its elements exhibited in separate glass bottles.. The milk was then taken up in the kitchen again, Pas- instructions for Keeping it were forthcoming, and next it | Was converted scientifically into butter and A chemical analysis of each of these products was shown In glass bottles, possible adulterations were disciosed, aud the nutritive value of milk, butter and cheese figured out in accurate percentages fats and min- fined the bacteriological it was diverted to the laboratoy teurized and _ sterilized, cheese. of proteid, erals. The Effect on the Avernge Woman. carbohydrates, The effect of all this on the average wo- man's mind would be simply to drive her crazy with a sense of increased duties and responsibilities. To know that there are 220 different kinds of. microbes likely to | assail one’s vital will require much thne and effort, and will | Mik is sterilized too Tien fo Know, that if ‘and that if it isn’t sterilized high enough hy, the in- tellect that can calmly know so much and act under it emid all the other trials that beset a housekeeper must be unholy in its might as Lucifer, and certainly not fem- it will probakly kill the bal inine. A knowledge of chemistry and bacteriol- ogy applied to the home is of immense benefit to a housekeeper, but the study of same, with a bunch of flowers stuck on the side, on one end, or trying to slide off at the lower edge from among a lot of lace frills. Satin is a favorite for making muffs, be- cause it makes such lovely wrinkles and folds, and looks so rich. Chiffon is some- times used over satin of the same shade and makes a frail, dainty confection, very pretty to look at, but of the very least use in the world. For evening wear are muffs of White satin and illusion with white ostrich tips and bunches of white violets exhaling a real life-like perfume. For real use, to keep my lady’s lily fin- gers warm, and to carry the purse: and handkerchief, bonbon box, smelling salts and some other things in, the “granny” muff is the muff par excellence. it is nesrly half a yard long—imore or less— and big around ac- cordingly, and when constructed oyt of shaggy fur, a woman locks as though she had her hands in a barrel, but they are awfully convenient. Rather an odd con- ception for a pretty girl is a muff with head and feet and tail of the creature, all used as ornament. Of course, it would be quite impossible to use the real head.of a biue fox, for in- stance, but an excellent imitation is got- ten up, and the tail and legs are all right. Where the head drops over to meet the tail a pocket is concealed, where the small be- longings can be carried quite conveniently, these subjects for its own sake is so fas- cinating that_a woman going into it is apt to lose sight of domestic needs and ailow her excetlence in the kitchen to fall short of anything in science. But while domestic science as she is taught had filled me with discouragement, witnessing the method in chemistry, in the presentation of nutritive values, in the | matter of dietaries and in the manifesta- | tion { had that the new cook is to be su- rerior to housework after she arrives, when I went to lunch at Drexel and ate graduate scup, post-graduate fish balls, junior celery salad and senior coffee—ah! the real proof of domestic science is in the eating, after all. PAULINE PRY. ————— The New Woman. She is up in Color Music and with Brah: forming a splendid substitute for a pocket in the dress. For something very elegant there is a muff of puffed red velvet, with border of ermine and a head of ermine, the whole to hang from the neck by a broad band of satin ribbon. ‘The lining is of white ‘atin. A very hand- sme one to carry ith a black gown is f black satin, with snings of white satin nd lavishly trimmed ith jet and tiny os- ‘rich tips. One in white velvet has cherry satin linings and silver bead trim- 2 THE @ @ 6 6 ‘ IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR Is_a beautiful and natoral hair coloring. U. 8. Cireul clared it to be “a usefal and tion.”” harmless. RESTORES GRAY HAIR. ‘The the patent, anf ée- meritorious inven- it Cou-t sustained Absolutely 4. Chestnut. REGENERATES BLEACHED. HAIR. : Send a lock of your hair with $1.50 you: 4 for you @ beautiful book of instractions. 2 trial bottle and we will Imperial Chemical Mig. Go., 92 FIFTH AVE., NEW YORK CITY. For sale by all druggists and Hairdressers. In Washington: Sold by > BP. MERTZ, F and ilth sts. Applied by Mrs. G. WAGNER, 1826 14th st. nw. World’s Feir! HIGHEST AWARD. IMPERIAL | GRANUM The STANDARD and BEST prepared FOOD Prescribed by physicians. Relied on in hospitals. Depended on by nurses. Indorsed by the press. Always. wins hosts of friends wherever its supe- rior merits become known. It is the safest food for convalescents! @ problem of Euclid to be demonstrated, she gave each pupil one of the subjects written on the blackboard, to be worked out with food materials and cooking uten- sils over the fire. The teacher moved among the class while they were at work, overseeing and making suggestions concerning the detatls of every taste. As each was finished the result, in cup or bowl, was brought to the teacher to be tasted and criticised, and then all tha pupils took a taste, comparing and criticising the work of one another. So personal and practical was every bit of the instruction given, I think even a man with a chafirg dish might learn to cook here, and you know how difficult it is for a man ms is even mings, with a spray intimate, : of white lilies tied Sings Chaminade and Thomas in a way that's with a broad white really fine. satin ribbon. sane Gees She draws in water color with dl For an elderly a han velvet that take you, with a breadth and dash | o¢ steel gray, lined with white satin, the And wheels about in costumes fashioned from her own design, She reads Maeterlinck and Ibsen, Browning, Mal- larme and Ruskin, Can recognize an Aman Jean or Puvis de Che- yannes. She's post-graduate from Harvard, kuows her Hux- ley gnd her Spencer, And has studied every ology froma Bersheeba to BUT She teases me and scolds me just like any other woman, ‘What she docs with money no one but the Lord will ever know; Ani when I come home tired she creeps into my bosom, And It's very nigh to heaven whene'er I hold ber + 80. For she takes her little baby, which Is mine, too, I may mention, And the two smile at me fondly as the angels, I believe, ‘While the thought about me lingers, as she bites her baby’s fingers, ‘That the much-talked-of New Woman is just as old as Eve. —ELINOR MACARTNEY LANE. ae o A School Room Episode. “Why were you tardy, Johnny?” asked a teacher last week of one of her little boys who came in Washington public school late. “Please, ma’am,” lisped the little fellow, “mamma Is sick—she’s got the twinzy.” One of Johnny’s schoolmates, who evi- dently didn’t catch the answer correctly, put his hand up to his mouth, amd, in a loud whisper, heard plainly by the teacher, pro- pounded the inquiry: “Hi, Johnny! Boys cr gi See eS More Rapid. From the Cincinnati Enquirer. co “By the way,” asked Battle and Murder, “what has become of the pale horse?” Death grinned an osseous grin. using the trolley cars now.” ee Increasing Proficiency, From Life. y Clara—Mr. Softerly paid me a great He said I grew compliment yesterday. more beautiful every day.” Maude—“Well, practice makes you know.” “I am perfect, double velvet ruffies edged with black as- trakhan, and trimmed with four rosettes of silver gray chiffon threaded with gold. ——.__ Sts ed Glass 4,000 Years Ago. From the Jewelers’ Circular. ee The glass blowers of ancient Thebes are known to have been as proficient in that ‘particular art as is the most scientific craftsman of the same trade of the present day, after a lapse of forty centuries of 80 called “progress.” They were well ac- quainted with the art of staining glass, and are known to have produced that com- modity in great profusion end perfection. Rosselini gives an illustration of a piece of stained glass known to be 4,000 both in tint and design. In this case the color is struck through the vitrified struc- ture, and he mentions designs struck en- tirely in pieces from a half inch to three- quarters of an inch thick, the color being Perfectly incorporated with the structure of the piece and exactly the same on both the obverse and reverse sides. The priests of Ptah at Memphis were adepts in the glassmakers’ art, and not only did they have factories for manufac- turing the common crystal — but they had learned the vitrifying of the dif- ferent colors and the imitation of precious stones to perfection. Their imitations of the amethyst and of the various other col- ored gems were so true to nature that even now, after they have lain in the desert sands from 2,000 to 4,000 years, it takes an expert to distinguish the genuine article from the spurious. It has been shown that, besides being experts in glassmaking and glass coloring, they used the diamond in cutting and engraving glass. In the British Museum there is a beautiful piece of stained glass, with an engraved em- blagonment of the monarch Thothmes III, who lived 3,400 years ago. The Dector’s Regrets. From Tid-Bits. The Wife—“Two weeks ago you said my husband couldn’t live, and now he’s nearly well. The Doctor—“Madam, I can only express my regrets.” ——__—+e+____ No Practical Value. From the Indianapolis Journal. “I have a story for you that will make your hair stand on end.” “Well, what good would that do? I don’t know one note on the piano from another.” Mr. Boreham (who has already stayed over an hour and talked about himself the whole time)—“Yes, I’m sorry to say I’m a martyr to insomnia I'v but I cannot get sleep at night!” His Hostess (sweetly)—‘“‘Oh, but I can tell you a very simple remedy. ried everything, You should talk to yourself—after going to bed!”—Punch. Is pure and unsweetened and can be retained by the weakest stomach. Sold by DRUGGISTS EVERYWHERB! ™myi8s John Carle & Sons, New York. A STURDY FOLK, THE BOERS. Slow and Uncouth, but Resolute to Defend Their Rights. From the London ‘Times. : ‘Among all the white men now thronging Johannesburg and other parts of the Trans- vaal in search of gold how many caw say with truth that they know anything of tae Dutch farmers? Not one man in a hundred. They will sneer at him, iaugh at his gut- tural tongue, and his heavy. uncouth ways, rail at his government; but as for taking the trouble to acquire his language and find out something of the inner heart of the man, they will not do it—in their feverish search for forture they have not the time. And yet this farmer of the wilderness, rough and uncouth, and often surly and suspicious as he is, has a great and stir- ring history behind him in South Africa, of which he is, and has a right to be, proud. He and his have struggled, and trekked, and warred, and been massacred, and have suffered in blood, and purse, and pastoral . wealth these 20 years past. I doubt wheth- er even an equal number of English peas- ants, farmers, soldiers and settlers, if they bad been planted at the Cape in 1652, as the early Dutch were, would have emerged from the long struggle ao little spotied, an@ having lost so little of their national char- acteristics. The Dutch Afrikanders are still of pure European blood, they still cling with the simplest and sublimest faith to the literal teaching of their Bibles, stili cherish with deep affection their wives and families, st‘ll go about their herding and hunting and trekking in the old, slow, unconquerable, dogged spirit of their ancestors, still turn their faces north, and as their pastures grow small and crowded, trek for new lards with undimmed hope and vigor. For my part, whenever I shake hands with one of these great, slow-moving Boers, I forget his uncouth ways, his oddities, his lack of the thin veneer of modern cultura, and think to myself—this man, despite his unpromising exterior, is one of a band heroes who have endured manifold suffer- ings, whose bones litter the silent yeldt in every distant nook and corner of South Africa, and who are, upon the whole, as fine a race of pioneers as the world has seen. They have their faults and weak- nesses, these people, but what nationality has not? The Boers are a race of hunters, as well as pastoralists, and the Transvaal Boers especially have been engaged in a war of extermination (lamentable to the lover of animal life) against every species of wild beast. Numbers of them have been occu- pied ever since boyhood in the hunting of elephants, buffalos, lions, rhinoceroses, and other heavy game. They have practically exterminated the elephant south of the Zambesi, and the buffalo is becoming very scarce. No man who understands South African hunting can pretend to say that the chase of these animals is not a dangerous one, requiring the highest qualitieasof nerve and courage. I will not say that the aver- age Boer hunter will, by way of recreation, face the lion singlehanded in the way that the great English hunters—Selous, Oswell Vardon, Gordon-Cumming, Baldwin an: others have accustomed us to. Few hunters, indeed, are so Quixotic. The Boer treats the lion as dangerous vermin, if possible ob- tains help from his fellows, and as a matter of business slays him by a volley. But hundreds of ‘Boers have slain lions single- handed, and hundreds have been mauled and even killed by lons. ——_ ++. Typhoid and Water. From the Popular Science Monthly, Among the soldiers under the military government of the city of Pagis there were 824 typhoid cases in 1888. The following year the number increased 1,179. At that time the water of the Vanne was aubstitut- ed for the contaminated Seine water. The cases of the next four years numbered, re- spectively, only 299, 276, 203 and 258. Last year the Vanne itself became contaminated through an accident, the history of which has been traced conclusively. The rseult was an increase of typhoid cases in the Paris garrison to 436, of which 310 occurred. in the three months of February, March | and April. During January and February = =? year 1895 there were only eight cases , In ell. The fact that typhoid fever comes and goes with impure drinking water could hi receive a more striking demonstrae tion. ———_~- e+ —____ Impossible, From the Kansas Emportum. Magistrate—“Prosecutor accuses you of having bitten his hand.” Prisoner—“That is impossible, sir; I am @ vegetarian.”