Evening Star Newspaper, August 10, 1895, Page 18

18 ‘HE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, AUGUST 10, 1895-TWENTY PAGES. FASHIONS FOR MEN Some of the Latest Decrees for the Coming Winter. SHORTER SKIRTS AND, WIDER TROUSERS Points for Those Who Wish to Be Well Dressed. ABOUT KNICKERBOCKERS From the New York Hereld. The following summary will be of inter- est to all who wish to appear correctly dressel from September to March, which comprises the sartorial winter, and will be none the less valable that it is published early enough to give an opportunity for its broper digestion and consideration. Leaving aside the question of costume for riding and outdoor sports, which has kecome of suflicient importance to be con- sidered in a separate article, the sartorial day may be divided into three parts—the Fre-luachecn, pre-prandial and evening pe- riods—and that mysterious, indefinable au- thority which for want ef a better name is bowed to under that of “good form” has prescribed the appropriate wear for each of these periods. Up to the clese of the luncheon hour the sack suit is not only allowable, but is emi- rently correct and fashionable. A rule that may always be observed with safety is to have the coat, vest and trousers made from the same material. Of course this is Pot absolute, for even with a single-breast- ed sack coat a pair of trousers of a differ- ent pattern may often be worn, while with a double-breasted sack of a black or dark blue material a pair of trousers of con- trastirg pattern will offend no rule of fash- fon. Single-breasted sacks during the com- ing season will generally be of the three- button variety, except for a man of unusu- el height, when four buttons will help to Sack Coat. Spanish Mantle. disguise the excessive longitudinal devel- opment. About thirty-one or thirty-two Inches will be the usual length of the coat. the sides will be shaped to outline the fig- ure not too closely, and the back will hang straicht from’ the shoulders, with Jess fullness at the hips than we have late- ly bean accustomed to see. ‘Ihe coat will button higher up than for summer wear, and the fronts will be cut rather sharply away from beneath the lowest button to the middie of the thigh, whence they will curve gradually to the bottom of the side seams. The old familiar outside breast pocket will often be dispensed with. The double-breasted sack will be about one inch longer than its single-breasted brother and promises to be a very popular gar- ment, as its heavicr collar and lapels give it a warm appearance, appropriate to cold-weather wear. Three buttons will us- ually be used (o close the frent, though four are allowable if the wearer's stature demands them. Cheviot suitings will be the most fashicnable materials, and many new colorings and patterns are shown, such as brown, green end red blendings in what may be called heather mixtures, and plaids of small and large designs will prob- ably be much favored, especially by those who like something verging on the “‘audi- ble." Double-breasted sacks, as hinted above, will usually be made of dark, solid colors. Afternoon Dress. While a sack suit may be worn for busi- ness or traveling purposes even up to din- ner time, correct afternoon dress, as well as formal occesions, such as weddings or funerals in the morning, require a frock coat or a cutaway of black or some dark color, No man who pretends to dress well will be without at least one frock coat. The newest form of this garment shows that the extravagant lengths and exagger- ated bell skirts are relegated to oblivion Without Kcpe of a third term, and very usual measurements will be 18 1-2 inches from collar to waist and 21 1-2 inches from waist to skirt bottom. Soft finished fab- rics will be most fashionable, and very plain, closely stitched edges will be used for these materials, but some diagonal worsteds will also be used, and braided edges will in that case be adopted. In other respects these coats will be as here- tofore. While black unfinished worsteds and vicunas will be the choice materials of the maiority many frock coats will also from the new mixtures in dark, @olid colors, which are attractive features in the new woolens shown. The New Cutaway Coat. The three-button cutaway coat of sim- flar materials, though not considered as formal a garment as the frock coat, may be worn on most occasions where the lat- ter is appropriate. It might be well to ex- cept a formal wedding, where the frock coat is certainly better form. The cutaway also bears testimony to the wisdom which seems to have presided at the birth of the new styles. Gone is the dovetail, the Willie boy or whatever dreadful name is appro- priate for that abomination which two years ago burst full fledged from the feeble brain of the fabricator of some fasaion plate and threatened for a while to envelop even men of good taste, who in their hearts knew better, in the sinuous coils of its unwieldy tafls. The balance of reason, for a space disturbed, has been once more restored, and we will rejoice in a cuta- Chesterfield. New Surtout. way that is both comfortable in its form and artistic in its lines. Good proportions will be 18 1-2 inches waist length and 86 or 87 inches fuil gth. The fronts of the coat will be gradually cut away from above the bottom vest button to about half the length of the skir and will thence be rounded to medium Width at the bottom. Another variety of this coat will be styled the bisiness cutaway, and may be worn wherever a sack sult is admissible. Fancy worsted suitings and Scotch suitings, com- prising a large variety of mixtures, rang- ing from drabs and grays to browns and olive greens, will be used for this suit, the coat, vest and trousers of which should be alike. Plaids will be favorite patterns in all manner of sizes and designs. The waists will be a trifle longer and the skirts fully two inches shorter than those of the dress cutaway, and large flaps, covering coke will often be placed on the hips. he general effect will, in fact, be that of the old-fashioned English shooting coat. Still another variety of the cutaway is the new two-button coat, whose general features will be similar to the business cutaway, the fronts being more cut away. About Trousers. We cannot, of course, foresee the effect of the popularity of the bicycle on the de- velopment of the American male calf, the beauty of which the tailors whom we have spoken to on the subject declare to be un- speekable. But I am most assuredly tread- ing on safe ground in asserting that during the coming winter season, at all events, the well-dressed men of this country will not go about the streets or to theaters or to their clubs in @ pair of wool or silken hose. This I assert without prejudice, for my own limbs are above reproach, in spite of the published determination of some misguided youths to force the knickerbozk- er issue. I have the greatest respect for our old families, but I cannot go behind the tailors. Trousers will still be worn! That is the carefully considered verdict of those who are “on the inside’—of- the subject, not of the trousers. Their style this season will show somewhat of a modi- fication of the pegtop tendency prevailing for the last twelve months. The extremely harrow bottom has not found very genera! favor and will give place to medium widths. Trousers for formal wear in ‘he daytime and those for evening dress will cut a trifle narrower than those for ordinary use, but nineteen inches at the knee and seventeen inches at the bottom will be about the average measures. They will be cut to-fit easily over the hips and will hang in as straight lines as possible to the bottom, and no ankle spring will be tolerated. Single-breasted vests will probably be in the majority during the winter months, and some tailors say they will be made with a collar, and some without. This is really a question of individual taste, and both styles are correct. With frock and cutaway coats the notch collar will be the more popular style, and, indeed, with a frock it will be quite allowable to wear a double-breasted vest. Every man with pretensions to fashion will order a few fancy vests. Such men as “Larry” Kip, Perry Belmont and George Vanderbilt are pretty safe to foilow in a matter of this Kind, and they consider the colored vest as essential to a properly equipped ward- robe. They will generally be of dark grounds relieved with small figures or dots in colors, and will usually, though not exclusively, be double breasted. Vests of white figured silk or Marseilles will be much worn with evening dress. Evening Dress. Good form ordains the donning of con- ventional evening dress with the lighting of the candles. The peaked lapel style of coat will be more popular this winter than the shawl roll for evening wear, and the skirts will continue to be long and spike- tailed, though rather less pointed than during last winter. The phrase, “Solemn suits of customary black,” will still ac- curately describe evening costume, as the attempt at the color innovation has been given up for the present. The shield shape effect will continue to be fasionable for both coats and vests, and it is probable that velvet collars will be worn by the most extreme dressers, and the lapels will be covered with silk to the edge, whether the collars be of silk or velvet. Conserva- tive dressers will wear a collar of cloth and have the lapel facing reach only to the buttonhole, and that style will be quite allowable and is certainly in good tasie. Materials for evening dress will invariably be of soft-finished, dull-faced goods, such as unfinished worsteds or very fine vicunas, and anything with a glossy finish will be strictly taboced. Trousers will usually be finished with a couple of rows of silk braid or cord. The Stylish Overconts. The subject of overcoats is perhaps the most attractive connected with men’s win- ter fashions, and this year will see several departures from the styles that have pre- vailed for several seasons. Until very cold weather arrives the covert coat, which was se popular a wrap during the past spring, will continue to be worn largely, though not large, for its proportions have been considerably curtailed. This coat is well adapted to slight, athletic figures, and has become a great favorite in this country, but the mistake is often made of having it cut too long. It should never be longer than just sufficient to cever a sack coat, and it is the worst of form to wear it over a@ cutaway or evening dress coat, leaving three or four inches of black tails exposed to view. The fashionable autumn overcoat par ex- celleace will be the Chesterfield om fiy front oversack, which will appear in a variety of very attractive new materials and color- ings, such as browns, olives and Oxford grays and blendings of these colors. This coat should be made to define the figure without following its outline too closely, should have a collar of the cloth and be silk faced to the edges. Usual lengths will be forty to forty-two inches. For regular winter weather, this same style of ‘oat, but made >f much heavier materials, will continue to be the favorite of those who like to combine elegance with comfort. In- stead of being faced with silk, however, the fronts will be faced with the cloth, and the collar will be cf velvet in many cases. The back will be cut straighter, hanging from the shoulders with a half-box effect, and the length will average two inches more than for fall wear. The surtout, or frock overcoat, promises to be much in evidence, and in the new form it has assumed in the hands of some of the most prominent tailors will certainly be a very stylish outer garment. A handsome shawl rol] collar of astrakhan or some other fur will replace the regular collar and lapels, and the fastenings will be three silk frogs instead of the commonplace buttons and button holes. It will usually be about forty-six inches long, with a waist length of about eighteen ond a half inches. If a man pre- fers a double-breasted overcoat instead of a Chesterfield, fashion says he can have it. It will be made semi-loose fitting, and will be cut straight in the back, without the exaggerated bell or flare of the Anglo- maniacal box boat. There is a new wrap, and a most grace- ful one, to wear over evening dress. The Inverness will, of course, continue to be an eminently correct outer garment, but in extremely cold weather it is scarcely a sufficient protection, and the long, warm and gracefully draping Spanish mantie, which is shown in the accompanying illus- tration, seems to meet the case thorough- ly, #3 it can with a slight movement of the erms be wrapped closely around the body, thus reducing to a minimum the danger cf catching cold after leaving the heated theater or ball room.. ——__. Sailor Hat Bands. To be quite up to date, the summer girl must supply herself with sailor hats ga- lore. She must have a black one, and a navy blue one, and a white one. The black one is to be worn with her black suit, which mvst be furbished up with bright shirt waist, collar and cuffs, and a bright band on her hat. The navy blue goes with the blue suit, which may be tricked out with white anchors, tattooed with embroidery needle in white silk all around the foot and on the collar and sleeves, and the white one is to wear when she means to look Killingly angelic in white serge, white shces and white gloves, with a flaming scarlet shirt, or perhaps she will carry out the color scheme in a white silk shirt waist with a lot of lace frills. Then there are the hat bands! You have no idea what a lot of worry those hat bands cost. A hat band from each beau is the regulation, but sometimes a girl can get two or more from each. She has a yellow and black one to wear when she goes out with her Princetonian, and hides it for a dark blue one when her Yale best fellow puts in an appearance. She can easily slip that off when she goes out rid- ing with her Columbia catch, and dons white and light blue, and co it goes on through the gamut of color combinations. ‘These hat bands cost a pretty penny, too. A fellow can’t well turn a deaf ear when Eis best girl says that his college colors are just teo lovely for anything, and, of cofirse, he takes off the band and hands it over to her. Then he has to present her with a slide or a buckle, and he wouldn’t dare to give anything in a base metal. Then ecllege pin has usualiy to follow the hat band, so, taking it altogether, the college man is catching it all around. eee Unnecessary. From Puck. He—‘“And I will promise that I will let you have your own way in everything.” She—“Oh, I don’t require that!” He—“You don’t?” She—“I mean WOMEN ON THE CARS Enjoying Home” When Traveling. HOW 10 LOOK NEAT AND TIDY What to Wear and What to Put in the Bag. THE LUNCH BASKET ‘Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. REPARING FOR A rip, if only for a few hours, is not always an easy matter, and pecple who have any idea whatever of how to go at getting ready for a long trip of two or three days are few and far be- tween. I was down at the station re- cently to see some friends away, and ’ was amazed to see that the two daughters of my friend were attired in blue duck for a trip across the continent! That was bad enough, but my friend was not even as sensibly attired as ber daughters; she wore a grass cloth! How I do wish I could have seen those three dainty women about the time they got to Kansas City. The grass clcth would lock as rumpled as crepe cloth and as spotted as a leopard with dust on every place touched by a drop of liqui‘l, and the blue ducks would be gray with impalpable dust that would not shake off, spotted worse than the grass clcth, mussed as bad again, and altogether they would be a disreputable looking lot, with their jour- ney only fairly begun. There is one general rule for traveling attire, whica, jf observed, would save a good deal of mortification and worry. The proper material for a traveling gown is wool, light or heavy, as the exigencies of the case may demand, or as the trip is taken on land or water. ‘The accepted material just now is mohair. Any color you like, though dark shades of brown, blue and green, with a liberal sprinkling of black, are the best liked colors. Next to mohair comes serge, and next to that light weight cheviot. Any of the materials mentioned shed dust beautifully, and water does not affect them in the least. You can double up on a car seat «nd s: calmty, knowing that a shake or two will emooth out every wrinkle as soon as you get up. If one was sure that everything would be smooth sailing from start to fin- ish, in a Pullman, or a cabin on a palace steamer, then one might travel in white foreign brides do and have no thought but to look sweet. : But there are a dozen things that might oceur to one on a long trip. All kinds of accidents might happen, especially on an across the continent trip, and in a pret- tily made woolen gown a woman may defy ali sorts of weather and never so much as frown at delays—always supposing that she has had forethought encvgh to prepare for them in other ways beside attiring herself sensibly. Suppose, for instance, that my grass. th and duck-clad friends had been storm-staid out in New Mexico for a week in one spot, with a day’s travel after two or three hundred bridges had been replaced only to get caught between two land slides for another five days! Wouldn't those cot- ton gowns be a sight by this time? Yet that was the plight of some friends who started to California a few weeks ago. He- cause of washouts and landslides they were forced to remain four days in one piace in the middle of a desert, three days in an. other, and then were carried into a small town by a wrecking train and told to stay there till the skies cleared. They were there just one week. Neat and Tidy When Traveling. “Fussy” traveling gowns are out of place In anything but a drawing room car, and they must be of subdued fashion to be ac- ceptable even there. A great many wi men will take a used up silk gown for a traveling dress, and are not always cere- ful that it shall be whole or clean, others take an old street gown that has almost outlived its usefulness, fondly believing that It does not matter how one looks when traveling. It is a serious mistake, and one that an old traveler will not make. A woman should Icck as neat and tidy when traveling as she dces when she goes out shopping. She never ‘lresses for shopping as though she was going to market, or as though she was going to a reception, but she strikes a happy medium, and is thus attired for any emergency. You may think it makes no difference how you Icck, since you will not meet any of your friends, Lut let me tell you that it makes a great deal of difference in the treatment you receive from train men, hotel people, and the public in gen- eral. Money will buy a great many things, but it will not buy respect or esteem, be- cause nobody can respect or esteem a dowdy and a frump. For this season of the year the omni- present shirt waist will, of course, assert itself everywhere, as it about the most comfortable garment ever worn. To wear with this shirt waist one should have a skirt an] jacket alike. If you are sensible end wish to avoid weight dragging you down from the waist, you will have the mokair or serge or cheviot skirt finished with a simple hem and rows of stitching, or it may have a light percaline lining. It is extravagant to line such a skirt with silk. Better make the slik into a pretty shirt waist for semi-dress affairs. You may select any pattern you like for the jacket, though it will be well to make it with a short, moderately full skirt, large sleeve and revers pretty well stiffened. If the material is very light, like mohair, line it with surah satin in some soft changeable color. The skirt should just escape the floor all around and not be more than four and a half yards at the foot, fitting plain- ly about the hips. Some Practical Suggestions. For a petticort, If you have no old silk dress that may be made into a silk skirt, get black satine. Six yards of this will make you a handsome skirt with three nar- row ruffles. You might run two or three rows of featharbone in the hem under the first ruffle if vou like to make it stand out a little. If the veather is very warm, dry and dusty, you will reed a clean shirt waist every day, if you want to keep your- self looking tidy. Dark striped or dotted prints and peréales will be best, with a dark lawn to wear in case of excessively hot weather, or one of the pretty flimsy wash silks, but they are rot at all advis- able for general wear when traveling, un- less in black or navy blue. Then have one stylishly made silk waist, with boned lin- ing, which may be donned for dinner in the dining car, or when, in case of accident, you are obliged to stop off where you may wish to go about and look a little nicer than the print waists will permit. ‘The matter of a traveling hat is hard to decide. Never wear a big hat, never wear a bright one, and alweys wear a plain one. A dark straight brimmed straw, with a wing or two, ribbon bows or rosettes, or dark shades of chiffon trim best. Neither feathers or flowers are quite the thing for a traveling hat. A close toque shape is really best, for you can lean your head back with that on and not crush it, but ff it_must be a hat, let it be a simple one. Wear gloves. One’s hands always get so soiled in traveling, and constant washing roughens them. Silk and taffeta gloves are so cheap yhat you can surely afford to protect your hands that much. Then you will want a rain cloak, and let me advise you to get a really gccd one while you are about it, because they wear a lifetime, al- most. Provide a shawl for emergencies, and in case you sre starting on a lon, journey of several days, be sensible end carry a small pillow in a pretty silk slip. A Traveling Bag’s Contents. Then there ts your traveling bag. What are you going to put in it? The way in which you furnish it will add er detract much from your comfort, and there is no serse 1a not being comfortable in this day and age. Of course, you will have a bag for your toilet traps alone. In it you will put your brush and comb, hand glass, tooth “AN the Comforts of| “housewife” in which and nail brushes, nafl"Mffe and polisher, hairpins, curling tongs, ete. You will have @ neat little silk eg with draw string into which thbse can be slip- ped and not get mixed up with the ings. Then you will have a little ‘ins and needles, thread, shoe buttons, até glove buttons, scissors, a corset lace crtwo, shoestrings— it you wear low shoes, ;which 1 wouldn’t do when traveling—thimble, safety pins, belt pins, extra buttons’ fi case you lose some out of your shirt'‘waist, and your glove and button hook.15* That, of course, has;q rubber band or ribbon ties to save it from. coming open and spilling its contents. Then ‘comes the most important bag of sll, Stikbecause silk is thin and makes no bulk-lined with oiled silk, this bag should be., You will have in it a bottle of alcohol—a two-ounce bottle is ordinarily large enough—a small bottle of fine white vaseline, an ounce bottle of brandy, a tiny bottle of lavender salts, ounce bottle of ammonia, ounce of arnica, half ounce of paregoric, half ounce of cam- Fhor spirits and a four-ounce bottle of dis- tilled water in which are two tablesp»on- fuls of alcohol and a teaspoonful of pow- dered borax, which you are to use on your face. Be sure to have long, perfect corks, for these bottles, so that they can’t possibly work out, and have a little soft tissue paper to twist ahout them, and you need have no fear of their breaking. Of course, you will carry your own towels and a lot of clean wash cloths, made out of coarse linen or muslin. In a neat little celluloid case have a cake’ of good soap, and have an oilskin bag for your wash cloth. You need not carry a shoe brush or blacking or shoe polish, for a good rubbing with vaseline is the very best shoe polish in the world. A brush broom or a clothes brush will be a very necessary adjunct of your toilet pag. Even Take «a Wrapper. Provide yourself with a neat lawn or print unlined wrapper, one with a princess back and loose front is best, and the darker it is the better. This you can slip en over your half-clad form and wrap up in your shawl and sleep very comfortably in if you are denied the privileges of a sleeper. When you are ready to retire, go to the toilet room and make your night toilet just as though you were at home, only do it quicker, remembering that there are a dozen people who are waiting to do the same thing. 1f you are not in a sleep- ing car, it is probabie that the toilet ar- rungements are meager. Then you will see the wisdom of the advice given. Slip oif your bodice and skirt, loosen your cor- set strings, or, better still, remove the cor- sets, unbutton your boots and let down your hair. Comb and braid it in a single braid and pin it up loosely. Get out your bottle of distilled water and tke vaseline. Dampen the corner of a towel and wash your face and neck—every bit of soil will come off, too—and then rub a little of the vaseline into the skin of face and neck. Slip on the wrapper, fold up all the clothes you have taken off,put all the little traps in your bag, and you are ready for your seat again. Put your folded clothes in the rack above your head, get out your pillow and shawl, tie a veil over your hair and pull on an old pair of gloves, and then—go to sleep. It isn’t as comfortable as a berth In a sleeper, but you will find yourself a sight more comfortable than if you had been sitting bolt upright all night in all your tight clothes, with your face blistering with dust and cinders, and your hair crusted with the same, In the morning bright and early slip back to the toilet room and get yourself all brightened up before the others waken. Take off your clothes and give you If a hard) “dry rub” with a coarse linen. your meck and face with the d ater-dampened towel, eae dust @ little taleum powder over your- self. Brush and comb yeur hair, and make your toilet as carefully. and neatly as though you were at home, and by the time the disheveled and dirty average woman is wning and stretching, and wishin the day just beginning wags ending, you will he out ‘on the platform swallowing great mouthfuls of sweet morningair, and getting a ferocious appetite for breakfast, which ; you go in to partake of, just in time to See her emerging frem the toilet room, growling because there are no towe! nothing but ice water, in which she pro- ceeds to wet her handkerchief, becar fergot_a w. cloth, and sits comb her hair with her side cam can imagine the rt. of looking creature she will be in pale blue and white - K ith a white shirt waist after sl aveled in them for four days and About the Lunch. Of course, you carry a bountiful supply of lunch. It is not safe to start without it. Railroad accidents are numerous and eating stations are not very close together; then it costs a great deal to take three meals a day on a dining czr or at the eating houses. If you are to be out three days put up three boxes of lunch, placing in the third those articles of food which will keep longest, reserving the more pe ishable things for the first and second day: Anything that will te nice for a picnic din- ner will go well in a traveler's lunch, but wrap each sandwich in baker's paper, also your cake and everything that will dry cut. If you carry canned meats don’t for- get the can opener. Take a tin cup and a small tin coffee pot In which to get coffee or tea along the route. You can carry the essence of each in strong bottles and make a pot of either over the tiny alcohol stove that you use to heat your curling tongs. Carry nice new tin spoons, and at the end of your trip you can turn your cheap Itnch traps end tinware over to the porter with- out a pang, since they have cost you almost nothing. o Supply yourself with a good book or two in coarse print before you start, and, of course, you have your little traveling port- folio properly stocked. Don't forget your time card and maps of all the railroads over which you are going, and inform your- self as to every change and the length of stop to be made, which jot down before you start. With these precautions, even a “day coach” traveler may cross the con- tinent in comparative comfort, but you can't expect to fling a lot of clothes and a few toilet articles promiscuously into a bag, and start off hoping to enjoy “all the ccmforts of home” on a tourists’ train. SENORA SARA. -_e FISHING FOR DIAMONDS. A Burglar’s Novel Way of Getting at the Jewelry, From the San Francisco Chronicle. The discovery that an ingenious burglar wes robbing the window of the Columbian loan office of diamonds, greenbacks and coins drew a crowd of 500 people to the vicinity, and it was with difficulty that the police cleared away the blockade. The lower floor of the building No. 9 Grant avenue is occupied by the loan office, the upper floors being vacant. The burglar got into the hallway adjoining the pawn- shop, locked the street door and began his operations by sawing out a square section of the side of the paneling, which forms the end of the display window. The hallway runs in-sucka way that the wall én the right, agponeagscends, 1s also the end beard of tf disMay window, a half-inch panel being the only barrier be- tween a person ascef{ding the stairs and the window wherein diamonds, greenbacks and coits to the vahle of $10,000 were on display. An unknown pedestrian ¢hanced to peep Into the briiliantly lighted display window about 8 o'clock, wherpupop he saw a deft hand manipulating a long wire with a hooked end in such ja manner as to fish the greenbacks and jewelry to the aper- ture, from whicn he Teadily reached them with his hand. Without tarrying to see the result of his warning or to give his name, the stranger who discovered the operations thrust his head into the door- way and shouted: ‘Your store is being rob- bed,” and departed. The proprietor rushed to. the door, dis- covered what was being done, and blew a police whistle, while his clerks tried to break through the hall door, but it is a strong structure and was so well locked that their assaults thereupon were futile. It was nearly ten minutes before the police got it unlocked, by which time the burglar had escaped, presumably climbing out of some upper window and reaching the street over the roofs of adjoining houses or by ropes. A hasty examination of the upper floors by the police revealed nothing of import- ance concerning the burglar, who had fold- ed up his fishing pole and silently gone be- yond the reach of his pursuers. A hurried invoice of the contents of the windo’ showed that several diamond earrings ani coins had been taken, though most, if not all, the greenbacks remained. The pro- prietors thought that $200 would probably ecver their losses. Had the discovery been made five minutes later the daring burglar would doubtless have fished out several stacks of greenbacks as:well as a bowl of gold dust and coins. SUMMER IN THE CITY, The River and How It is Enjoyed During the Hot Weather. “Down the river!” Whata boon, what a blessed privilege,the “storied Potomac” pro- vides for the city’s “shut-ins” during the sweltering weather. Not the least ef the Pleasures that may be had fora song and the seeking about Washington are the excur- sion outings to the various resorts along the river from Washington to the ocean. There are small boats that carry a hundred or so, and big boats that carry a thousand or So, and wee little boats which carry just two people, and they must sit as snug as bugs in a rug, so as not to capsize; on the warm summer evenings, the iver is full of crafts of various sizes and capacities, and motors from the primitive sail to the ex- quisite little steam launch, with its ap- pointments like a palace, but the favorites, because of cheapness and commodiousness, are the big excursion steamers. What a jolly, cosmopolitan lot they do carry! What a devil-may-care lot below deck, and happy-go-lucky lot above, with os a staid, methodical, if! taking-a n-outing-be- cause-i t-is-necessary lot sandwiched in everywhere. There is always an alleged band, of course, but its hackneyed reper- toire does not inter- fere much with the pleasures of the peo- ple, for they don’t pay any attention to it. They gather in knots of four to a dozen in their own little corner of the boat, and tell stories, crack jokes, sing songs, and rehash the last bit of gossip in their set, just as though the boat was a club house, and only one’s own clique on it. Off to the right half a dozen confederate butions above as many hearts of wearers of the gray will tell the reason for the oratory and applause that a one-armed man is causing with his “rich” story. Off to the left the bronze button of the Grand Army of the Republic will be ceen on a dozen coat lapels, and you will hear snatches about “That night before Peters- burg,” “When we retreated before the leaden hail at Fredericksburg,” ‘Yes, it Was at the bloody angle that I lost this leg,” and you will know that a lot of old vets. are going to a ‘‘campfire’’ down the river. Down at the bar, as like as not, you will find a Grand Army badge and a confederate button hobnobbing over some- thing with straws in it. In the very dark- est corners of the boat, with chairs as close as they will sit, pairs of lovers will be spooning in silent ecstasy. A clerical- looking gentleman will be. marshaling his fiock for a Sunday school picnic, and his vis-a-vis will be a base ball club and its admirers, in giddy rainbow attire. In one end of the boat,” where the air is coolest, a tired little mother will hold so tenderly in her aching arms a wee bit bairn, who is slowly and surely letting go its frail hoid on life, and oh, the that mot strings. E kind to hi feverish brightness of the baby’s cyes is heightened by gifts of fruit, and flowers, and candy. Every- body wants it about, ev insists on something. the great big :thlete of a husband who carries his thin, suffering wife aboard in his love-strong arms, and as he bustles about like an elephant in a china shop tells everybody that he is sure that Nellie is better and can go to the seashore soon, when everybody knows that the sea she 1s nearing is waveless and tideless, ond never gives up its secrets. Then there is the doing There is ilver-haired old lady with the s and yoice like an vho knows that all she can do for ‘© husband, who bas carried en ach- purg for thirty long and more, is to make the last @ ful. He loves the water, day she takes him on it, but he will soon be too weak to go. At the bow of the boat is a happy family of six s ly youngsters and their parents and some playmates, who are having a pic- nic party on the boat. How they shrick and howl and sing and shout! But they disiurb nobody. They take the ero a glass of home-made currant wine, and it reminds him of his mother’s, and makes him smile. They take the wee bairn a peach, and the baby rouses nd says “prett; The little wife gets a bit of cake, and so they spread sunshine, and soon everybody is talking to everybody, and all the people seem to be happy. Then there is the trip back, past the dancing lights out in the murky water, past the lumber schooners and coal barges, with their dim lanterns, the tired children asleep, the hero and the little wife, wan- eyed, but content, a girl with lots of social honors to her credit holding the wee bairn, and the tired mother fast asleep on a soft couch. You can see all this und nzore, much more, in a singie trip “down the river.” It pays you to go. It sweetens your temper, it softens your heart, it rests you. ing memento of Get year — Waist, Hat and Collar. Here is something very swell in waist, hat and cape collar. The bodice is of ac- cordion plaited silk, the kind that is light as thistle down. No attempt should be made to cut the silk by a pattern. Have your lining made to fit like a glove, and bone it, then take yards and yards of the silk, put a draw string at the neck and one where the belt should be and set and catch the gathers, cutting slits where the arm bcles are to be. Make the sleeves the same way over a sleeve lining, with some tarla- tan for stiffening. The collar is made on stiff pieces, bound with satin picot-edged ribbon, and under the edge is placed a flat arrangement of Irish point. A soft rib- ton belt and knot finishes it off. The hat is a drooping broad brimmed affair, in rice straw, with a pearl bead edge, and has knots. of ribbon and velvet rosettes for trimming, the whole forming one of the handsomest of the new head coverings. By the way, since it has got so popular to go bareheaded of evenings, the “girls” have got to fashioning the cutest little head dresses of black or creami lace. They are the old style three-cornered lace things that used to spread smooth over the shoulders, The point is set where it will droop over the part in the hair, and an- chored with a jeweled dagger, and the back part is fastened to the back hair with a bright bow and another jeweled dagger, and the ends are brought round antler the chin and carelessly knotted. They are awfully fetching when the girl is pretty. a At Narragansett Pier. From Puck. Jack—‘“Heavens! Look at that Boston girl! It’s enough to give a man a chill even at this distance,” “What's the matter?” ‘Can’t you see? She is chewing her ice cream.” FASHION NOTES. The Long Shoulder—Some of the Latest Wrinkles. It is coming—the long shoulder. Its hydra head looms up in every imaginable way, to suggest the lengthened seam, with- out actually being long. The collars all fall over the tops of the sleeves, the shoul- der caps all fit closely about the tops of the sleeves, there is close shirring in half a dozen rows at the top of the sleeves and the “swan neck” and sloping shoulders will be upon us in a very short time unless there is a backset somewhere. The trimming on the smartest bodices is set on in horizontal lines across the bust and is matched clear across the sleeves. On a woman of generous girth this effect is positively ludicrous. Black and white, white and black! That: is the one combination now. You can take it In silk and lace, in wool and lace, in cotton and lace. Or you can change lace for embroidery and run the gamut of ma- terials, but whatever you do, manage to fix up at least one handsome gown in com- bination of black and white, if you would lcok smart. London advices say that in this day, when a woman changes her name with the seasons, that there ought to be some way of distinguishing the brides, after the second attempt, gray and mauve with a small bonnet being the accepted regalia for a “first” widow. It has, therefore, been decreed that “real” widows of a third or more bereavements, or a real divorcee, shall be permitted to be a little giddier than the widow of only one remove, and that she shall wear a long trained dress of moire antique, in mauve pink, trimmed with flounces or panels of white lace, and on her head a Spanish mantiila of white lace, fastened in pretty fashion by pink tinted roses, and she may wear as many jewels as she likes, something that is for- bidden the orange blossom bride. The surplice bodice is quite popular, and is particularly pretty in soft thin stuffs with a tiny edging of lace next the throat. The newest skirts fit perfectly plain atout the hips, and godets are slowly evolving into box and side plaits. Such a pity! Dress skirts are called woman killers now; if the box pleat comes in again the rew woman will prove a picnic for the medical fraternity, for the more trapsing around she does in the heavy skirts the m.cre she will suffer. The newest ribbon, that which is to dis- place the Dresden, so long popular, is striped—white with any color you like. Shoulder knots, belts and stock collars and ribbon panels are made of the striped ribbon, and for a change they are rather pretty, but nothing could possibly be pret- tier than the Dresden ribbon, which still has its devotees. A pretty fancy for rib- bon of an inch and over in width is to trim the foot of the thin swiss or mull with three or four rows of it, and then put through the center a very narrow insertion matching the dress. Of course, the ribbon should be of a solid color, and do use the soft, delicate shades. Right smart looking capes of mull have wide, full ruffies of same made with half a dozen tiry tucks and a narrow hem. {On some girls they look too quaint and pretty for anything. But if you have grandchildren and tip the beam at two and two ciphers, don’t try to wear one. You will look ridiculous. But there is a dainty three-cornered piece of mull for you, with a dainty edge of thread lace, and you can put it around your shoulders and pin it under your double chin with impunity. A woman with the neck of Hebe or a girl with her baby white throat may have her dress made without a col- lar, and have just a tiny edge of thread lace in it, but a woman whose neck gets red, like a turkey’s, or that has wrinkles, wants to bring her collar up to her ears. SS AN OBSTINATE BRIDE. She Didn’t Care for Bill, but Wanted to Oblige Her Father. From the Boston Herald. “A certain justice in one of the New Jersey cities several years ago,” said Old Bob, “had hardly been opened to business cn a certain morning in winter when a sleigh containing seven or eight persons came in from beyond the city limits, drove up to the door of the justice and filed out with an air of business. His honor was poking up the fire, when an old man beck- oned him into a corner and whispered: ‘Got a job of splicing here for ye. My darter Sarah here is going to hitch to that chap there with the blue comforter, and then we're going out to have some oysters.” ‘All right, all right,’ was the reply, and in two minutes the official was all ready. “The man with the blue comforter peeled off his overcoat, laid aside his hat, and ex- tended his hand to Sarah. ‘I won’t do it— T'll die first!’ she said, as she shrank away. ‘She's a leetle timid—a leetle timid,’ ex- plained the old man, while the mother re- bukingly observed: ‘Sarah, don’t you make a fool of yourself here. William will make you a good husband.” ‘And don’t you for- get Jit!’ added William. ‘Come, Sarah.’ ‘I won't unless we can go to New York on a bridal tower!" she snapped. ‘You'd leok nice bridal-towering round New York with no better duds than you've got!’ said the mother. ‘Now, Sarah, you stand up and git married!’ ‘Be keerful, mother—don’t make her mad,’ warned the old man. ‘Now, Sarah, if you back out, everybody will laugh at us ‘I don’t keer! I want to trav- e ‘You shall,” said William. ‘Where?’ ‘We'll all go to the house of correction.” “-Tain’t far ‘nuff.’ “The old man beckoned William and Sarah aside, and began: ‘Now, Sarah, William just dotes on you.’ ‘But I want a bridal tower.’ ‘Yes, but you can’t have one. The railroads are all snowed un- der, and towers have gone out of fashion, anyhow.’ “Then I want a diamond ring.’ ‘Now, don’t say that, Sarak, fur I went to every store last Saturday, and they was all out of diamond rings.’ ‘Then I want a set of mink furs.’ ‘Mink furs! Wil- liam, I know you'd buy "em for her in a second, but they’ve gone out of style, and can’t be had. Sarah, I’m yer father, ain’t I? ‘Yes, dad.’ ‘And I’ve alw bin tender of ye?’ ‘Yes.’ ‘Then be tender of me. I want to gee ye married to William. You can’t have a tower, nor a diamond ring, nor a set of furs. but I'll buy you a pair of gaiters. Willlam will pay for the oys- ters, and I'll see that mother divides up the dishes and bedding with ye. Sarah, do you want to see my gray hairs bowed down?’ ‘No-o-o.’* ‘Then don’t flunk out.’ “Will they be two-dollar gaiters” ‘Yes.’ “And all the oysters we can eat? ‘Yes, all you can stuff.” ‘And a tower next fall, if wheat does well? ‘Yes.’ ‘Then I guess I will. Come, Bill. I don’t keer two cents for you, but I want to oblige father.’ ” ————-+e+____ Religious Tattooing. From the New York World. A man upon whom religion had left its mark ineffacedly was observed at Ellis Island recently. He was one of a number of French immigrants brought before the commissioner for examination. He was a tall, hand®ome young man, a skilled iron worker. Attention was drawn to his personal appearance by the fact that he wore his thick hair brushed down over his forehead to his very eyebrows. When he was asked by the commissioner the reason of this extraordinary coiffure, the French youth looked embarrassed for a moment, and then replied that he wore his hair in this manner to hide a mark on his_brow. “What is the mark?’ was asked. He tossed his hair back and exhibited a sk‘llfully executed piece of tattooing, which, on examination, proved to be a text from the Bible, done in minute but perfect letters. It was in French and read: “Dieu est mon Berger, e n’aurais be soin de rien.” (“The Lord is my shep- herd, I shall not want.”) He stated that the tattooing was done at the request of a cranky aunt when he was a twelve-year-old boy. ——__ ++ ______ Gov. Flower’s Old Soldier. Writing in the Commercial Travelers’ Home Journal about old-time Fourth of July celebrations, ex-Governor Flower of New York says: “From the time I was eighteen years old until I was twenty-five I was usually placed on the committee cf the town in which I lived that had charge of the arrangements for the Fourth of July celebration. I remember one Fourth of July in Watertown, when we had de- cided to have the militia out in the pro- cession; we were also desirous of getting some soldier or soldiers who had fought in the battle of Sackett’s Harbor, in the war of 1812-15. They were scarce, but we suc- ceeded in finding one patriot. We rode him around in the procession; we dined, wined and toasted him. But the next day we learned that he fought on the other side!” ——[—[—S[S—S——Saa————SSSS MAGPIE COLORS. A Fetching Fichu and a Popular Bonnet. Megple colors they call black and white, and here is a magpie suit. White some- thing or other with a French name, which is thin like organdy, is the material, and it has a black figure like embroidery. The pointed belt, collar and magple-bows at the elbows and shoulders are of black velvet, ard the theme is carried out on the hat with velvet and black and white plumes. One might call this @ Marie Anioinette fichu, though it doesn’t look muc! like anything of th kind that the poor queen ever wore, but we seem to have got into the habit of call- ing everything that crosses in front in handkerchief ‘fash- jon “Marie Antoin- ette.’’ However, this fichu- shaped biouse front is quite fetch- ing on some people, It can be made of lawn or silk, and trimmed in lace or em- broidery, with garniture of velvet or rib- bon. While it is like the dress in this in- stance, it may be of some material entirely distinct from the dress, and be used as @ light wrap. There is always a reason for every ridice ulous fashion, and the absurd little bone net which looks as though it was sliding off over the back hair is the result of a woe man’s pride. She was extremely plain, but had beautiful hair, thick and glossy and waving about her face, and determined to show her one beauty, so mounted the “dutch” bonnet a-top of her wealth of hair, It was an English duchess who perpetrated the audacious creation, and it took like wildfire. —_+—_- American Energy. From the Philadelphia Inquirer. Every disaster or calamity that comes upon communities in this country serves to illustrate the marvelous energy and perseverance of the American peuple, and the story of the rebuilding of the little city of Phillips in Wisconsin is only one of many cases in point. On July 27, 1894, Phillips was completely wrecked by fire, the people were hungry and without shelter, and were largely de- pendent upon the gifts of outside com- munities for food and clothing. There was not an industrial building left standing, and although there were logs to be had in the surrounding country there were no sawmills left to transform them into builds ing lumber. The forest fires had devas tated the fields as well as the city, and the farmers in the neighborhood were with- out seed for the next crop. But every- body went heart and soul into the work of reconstruction. Adversity did not dis- may them, and they were encouraged by. the generosity of the outside world. On last Saturday, just one year from the day on which their homes were smold- ering ruins, the people celebrated the com- plete restoration of thcir city. Churches, school houses, stores, homes, sawmills, tan- neries and barns have been rebuilt, and what was before a collection of inflam- matie frame buildings is now one of brick and stone. The spirit of the pioneers who Liazed out a path for progress still lives, and it would be hard to measure the future of such a country and such a people. A War Relic Museum. From the New York Tribune. Comrades of New York city posts make the claim that if all their relics of the war scattered through their various head- quarters were put into one place, they, would constitute a first-class museum. John A. Dix Post, No. 135, has that gens eral’s field epaulets, the flag which floated on the revenue cutter at New Orleans when Secretary Dix gave his famous order to shoot on the spot the miscreant who should. attempt to haul the flag down, and sev- eral prized personal effects once the prop- erty of the post’s namesake. Alexander Hamilton Post, No. 183, has many histor- ical papers of the statesman who was Washington's closest cabinet adviser, and the sword knot which Colonel Hamilton wor when a member of Washington's staff. W. S. Hancock Post, No. 259, possesses the general's headquarters flag, as well as autograph letters and orders of General Hancock; also the muskets, swords, car- tridges and shells from many battlefields of Virginia and elsewhere. Lafayette Post cificials proudly exhibit mementos con- nected with the French general's army, service in America. Naval Post, No. 51 has a treasury of relics that tell of con- flicts on the high seas. Hans Powell Pest, No. 339, guards the canvas cap drawn over the face of the executed as- sassin, Atzerot. Dahlgren Post, No. 118, believes that it possesses the most exten- sive library of war literature extant, while George Washington Post, No. 103, boasts of having among its treasures one of the original little hatchets which the immortal George used on his father’s cherry tree. ——_+2-+__. A Careful Boy. From the Omaha Bee. Father (ccming unexpectedly upon the scene)—“Ah! Just as I thought! In swim- ming on Sunday.” Bcy (putting on a bold front)—“I fell in, jaa." Father (angrily)—“Don’t Me to me. You have got your clothes off.” Boy—“Well, you wouldn’t want me to fall in this muddy water with my Sunday clothes on, would you?” Easy to Provide. From the Morristown (Pa.) Herald. Manager—“We must put a great deal of realism in this wood scene. Can you get some one to growl s0 as to resemble @ bear?” Assistant—T think so. There are six or seven chorus girls who haven't received their wages for ten weeks. I'll call them.” °+—___—_ A Member of the Family. Frem the Detroit Free Press. “What has become of all your fine dia~ monds? They're still in the family, I hope?” “Oh, yes, my uncle has them.” Judging by Appearances Old Flame—“‘I see you have married sincg the old days, Tom.” Tcm—Yes; but I see you haven't.”