Evening Star Newspaper, June 22, 1895, Page 18

138 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JUNE 22, 1895-—TWENTY PAGES. FOR PICNIC PARTIES What to Take for Lunch and How to Take It. A DAINTY FEAST UNDER THE TREES Some Suggestions That Will Make an Outing Delightful. A COMING APPETITE DD, ISN'T IT, THAT so few women un- derstand packing lunch for a picnic so that it will be fit to eat when arrived at the picnic grounds, but odder yet is the fact that very few seem to understand anything about what _to prepare in the first place. I had some experi- ence a short time ego in trying to extricate enough to feed the ants at the lunching grounds selected for a bicycle party by the girls. Bobbie had given the preparation of the luncheon over to a green servant, and she surely did make a mess of it. She had provided dishes enough for a dinner party, with fine napery, silver and glass ware, just as though we were to be waited on by a white-gloved, evening-suited corps of train- ed waiters, instead of throwing ourselves on the ground to rest after a hard wheeling tour, and lazily eating a few daintily pre- pared viands. That prince of epicures, Ward McAllister, used to say that if you had “only a salad and a sandwich, and a glass of water, have them fresh and free from ‘mussiness,’ appetizingly prepared and served without formality, with cordiality for sauce, and a king would find no fault.” I never could see the sense of packing 2 ear load-of crockery and the contents of @ linen counter to a picnic, where one usu- ly goes to get away from stiffness and formality, and to have a good time. If the villain still pursues in the shape of over fine attire and having to look after the table paraphernalia lest the servant smash a lot of one’s prized china, or some of the impromptu guesis “swipe” some of the silver, one ean get but little pleasure out of the gffair. Now take my advice and never put your handsome table linen in the way of ruina- tion by carrying it to a picnic. The paper table cloths called Japanese are just as dainty and sweet as can be and cost less than the laundering of your linen ones. Carry a dozen old newspapers to put under the fancy paper ones. For napkins, again the Japanese paper ones are by all odds the proper ones for an al fresco affair. A great big worry is saved right there. Then about dishes; it is really a very difficult matter to pack along a lot of china, because it is heavy and hard to handle, and there is al- ways more or less danger of breakage. In Place of China and Silver. Instead of carrying a lot of these heavy breakable, get as many as needed of,the clean wooden plates. and deep dish-like affairs that you get soft stuff in at the market. You can pack several gross, if necessary, in a very small space, and they weigh practically nothing. If you do not like to put salads and things in them, line them with oiled baker’s paper, and they can't possibly be objectionable. Instead cf glasses and cRina cups, get-as many as needed of the half-pint cups made of tin in the shape of glasses and without han- dies. They cost almost nothing, and are stowed away inside of each other, taking “but little space. If you carry berries or anything of like juicy nature a bright new tin bucket, with @ lid that shuts close, is much better than a big dish, which is Hable to overturn and spill all its contents. Three or four small dish-shaped tin pans will also answer for cabbage slaw, salads and such viands. You can buy nice tin spoons for 10 cents a dozen. One lost silver spoon will be worth twenty times as much. Don’t turn up your nose at eating with tin spoons. Some of your remote ancestors would have been in- sulted at being asked to use spoons instead of fingers. Knives and forks may be had for a song, and when you have all this out- fit, remember, it will last for two or three seasons if you put it away properly, and if you should lose the whole thing it would not cost you a single pang. It is not always expedient to carry ice to a small picnic, and the question of ‘‘drinks becomes a burning one on a hot day. Of course, you will want lemonade. Roll as many lemons as you want to use till they ere soft, then cut the end and squeeze out all the juice. When the juice is all ex- tracted run it through a thin cloth to take out all the pulp and every seed—those make lemonade bitter—then put in a bowl and thicken with sugar. Let it stand, stirring occasionally, until a sirup, then pour into a wide-mouthed bottle and cork, ready to carry. Cool Tea and Coffee. Tea is easily prepared. Put as much tea as you shall want to use in 2 bowl and pour over it a quart of hot water and let it stand to cool. Pour off the liquid in a large- mouthed bottle and cork with a clean stop- per. Make coffee the same way. Of course, these drinks will be as strong as lye in that shape, but it is much better to carry them in the small quantity, as they take up less room, and you can weaken when you come to use. At the lunch, when you go to serve any one of them, have buckets of cool Spring“or well water brought. Cool the tin cups, then half fill them with cool water and pour into them a tablespoonful or two of the tea, coffee or lemon juice, and you have a deliciously cool drink. To carry butter without ice Is an art. Get a small unglazed jar—one that will hold as much butter as you wish to carry—and scald it well, so that it will be perfectly pure and sweet. Pack the butter in it and put in the ice bex to harden. Just before you start, wrap a cloth dipped in ice wa- ter all over the butter jar, and set the whole thing inside ef a larger ungiazed jar. Then pour ice water around the cloth till it is saturated to dripping, set it’all in a tin bucket or basket and cover with two or three thicknesses of flannel. ‘The butter will never soften a bit, and when you come to eat you can put the jar right on the table. Cream and milk may be treated in the same way; only a bottle must be used instead of the jar. Pack in the wet cloth and unglazed jar, for cool- ness. Don’t try to carry pie or pudding or custard to a pienic iunch. They are all out of place there, because viands of a differ- ent nature always taste best. Meat in some farm Is absolutely essential. Generally speaking, meat sandwiches are the best way to dispose of both bread and meat, but the way in which the average sandwich is made is enough to give an epicure the jaundice. They can be made zo unpalatable that a tramp would turn from them in disgust, or so superfine that one can eat them with “a coming appe- tite.” Sandwich bread should be twenty- Rolls should have been softening for twelve hours. bread should be cut as thin as a r, a3 even as a plece of paper, have bit of the crust removed and the slices should be about three inches wide by four hours old. cooling and The four long. The rolls should be thin, deli- cately browned and light as a feather. Thin crisp baking powder biscuit are de- licious eating. As to Sandwiches. The butter for sandwiches should be as sweet as the breath of kine, and be spread evenly and sparingly. The filling will vary according to taste, but it should be daintily prepared and of the best meats. A ham sandwich may do for a base ball, but it can be as tender as a bit of cake. Minced ham makes the nicest filling. If you slice it, make it as thin as paper, and be sure to cut ac the grain of the meat and not along with it. Better mince it, though. Trim it of all soft fat, gristle and bone, and mince with a chopping knife till it is as fine as powder. It is improved by adding a little lean beef. Season with mustard, pepper and mashed yolks of hard boiled eggs, and spread thinly and evenly on the bread. Beef and veal and chicken sandwiches may be made the same way, adding such seasoning as you tke. A cheese sandwich that would tempt a saint is made of minced gruyere, with a rich salad dressing to mix and soften ft. A cucumber sandwich is appetizing. Slice the cucun:bers very thin, dress with vinegar and oil, and lay between the Slices of bread, which are slightly buttered. Then there are lobster and egg sandwiches, anchovy sand- wiches, and half a dozen others which all good housewives know how to make. If you want other meats beside those in the sandwiches, potted chicken, ham or veal loaf are most excellent. Smothered chicken is nice, and fried chicken always finds a friend. Baked meats carried in the lump are not as nice, as a general thing, as the inade meat dishes. Sour things are always particularly ap- petizing at a picnic, and should outnumber the sweet ones. Sweet and sour pickles can be easily carried by piling a little wooden dish full and laying another over it. They will not dry out a bit. Cabbage slaw “may be seasoned and packed in a tin bucket, and the dressing, carried in a bot- tle, poured over it after arrival. All kinds of salad are agreeable at such a lunch, and can be easily carried, adding the dressing on the ground, so that nothing will look mussy. Pickled eggs are a delicious addi- tion, and deviled eggs are also easily pre- pared. Pickle the eggs a day or two before, and if you color them with beet juice they nake a pretty spot on the picnic table. In- stead of vinegar,carry them tothe picnic dry, and when ready to serve, cut them in half, lay on a wooden plate and pour over them a salad dressing made with lemon juice. They are delicious. Beet pickles may be = two or three days before, and carried ry. To Pack a Dinner. No soft fruit should be carried, unless it is put in a can and securely stopped, for it is nearly sure to mash and run over everything. Pineapples, oranges, peaches, melons and such things may be carried, though the melons take up a lot of room. Cake—of course, there must be some kind ef cake—should be simply made and be without ornament of frosting or fruit. Jel- ly cake ana “layer” cakes are not the best kind to take, because they muss so. Little sweet-crusted cup or tea cakes are really the best, and next to them, a solid loaf. Tarts make a nice addition to a picnic din- ter. Make the shells the day before, and pack them with a single thickness of tissue Paper between. Put the filling in after the cinner is spread. Lemon filling, such as is used for lemon pies, is delicious, or rasp- berries, strawberries or any kind of pre- serve will answer. = Packing a picnic dinner is an art. A grgat many pastehoard boxes, a quantity of String, and a ream of soft, white paper are the aids and a world of patience and deft hands are necessary. The sandwiches should each be wrapped in a single thick- ness of white tissue paper and laid gently on top of each other in a paper-lined box, about a dozen in each. When full without squeezing, put the lid on and tie it, and mark “‘sandwiches” and the kind., Then you will know exactly what you are -han- dling when you take them out of the ham- per. Pickles, eggs and fruit should be packed the same way. If the cakes are small, put them in boxes a dozen together with paper between; if a loaf, put in a box just big enough to hold it with a wrap- ping ox paper, and tie and label. ‘The bot- ties of liquid and the jars of milk and other things should be wrapped with many layers of wet paper and set in a box, also lined with paper, and wedged so that not one of them can move. ‘the dishes and tins should all be by themselves. Little Things, but They Count. Do not neglect to provide sugar, pepper, vinegar, salad dressing, musta and horseradish for those who may like high seasgning. If hot tea or coffee are preferred, a small oil stove and a tin bucket will soon provide the hot water, and you can then put in the concentrated essence of tea or coffee that you have pre- pared. 1f you take the drinks culd, and nave no ice, do not have the water brought for them til you are ready to serve them. Don’t neglect to provide rugs for sitting upon about the tabie if the tuneh is laid upon the ground, for a lingering ache is must sure to follow picnics, 1 you indulge in sitting on the grass. A hammock or two to hang for those who cannot engage in the more active sports is a nice adal- tion to picnic traps, and, of course, a swing is a necessity if there are children in the party. It isn’t a bad idea to have a flask of spirits in case of stings or snake bite, and a bottle of liniment or witch hazel comes in very handy in case of tumbles and hurts, Of course, the chaperon always has a “housewife” with her, in which are needles and thread, buttons and pins, for possible mishap to raiments. It is so easy by a little forethought to make a picnic outing a success, and just as easy to ren- der it a failure by tumbling things together ut the last moment, only to tind that noth- ing that gets there is fit to eat, and half that was wanted was left behind. SENORA SARA. ——__ ON THE DOOR STEP. A Pleasant Feature of Life Here Dur- ing the Summer Season. Door step life in this city during the sum- mer season presents some curious phases, Humanity must have breathing spells after the heat of the day, endured indoors, often- times ‘in stuffy rooms, and it is not every one who can go to one of the parks or take a cool car ride out to the suburb: ard even if one had time and money to do this every evening, it is a task, after a long day over the desk or behind the coun- ter, to attire oneself fit for a trip, and so thousands prefer to lounge on door steps, where they can be at ease in old clothes, if they so desire, and sometimes in almost no clothes at all. Deor step parties are an intensely mod- ern institution, and, to judge from the hi- larity and fun they ice seem to engender, must be most enjo: able. They are nat- urally informal, the hot weather which inaugurates them mak- ing conventionality unbearable. The par- aphernalia is easily secured. A big rug to spread over the flight of steps for seats for the ladies, and a few chairs, if there is room for them, for the men; if not, they perch on coping or balustrade. Ice cream from the nearest confectioner’s; sweet cakes from the corner grocery; a box or two of fine Berries, everybody to hull his own; a huge pitcher of lemonade and some glasses, A Japanese stool, with a paper nap- kin or two, makes a cute little table, on which the treat is placed. Sometimes it is quite elaborate, with ices and bonbons, sil- ver and fine napery, served from the rece: of the fine hail by a white-gloved butler. On the sidewelk below some strolling harper and fiddler or an organ grinder wiil rend the atmosphere with alleged music, while the merry group on the steps will hum and sing and whistle snatches of the threadbare melodies, between scraps of scandal, jest and repartee. Far into the right the people remain, loth to enter the warm houses, and thoroughly under the in- fluence of the romantic situation, where the street lamps and electric lights throw long shadows through the dancing leaves, and the calm of the deepening night touches them with restful fingers. Sometimes it will be a group of merry young people, just home from tennis or 4 cycling trip, and, in picturesque attire, they fling themselves down on the stone steps to “cool off” and to eat a lunch of crack- ers and _ cheese, olives and oranges, sandwiches and soda pop, anything incon- gruous, that could be picked up on the way home. Maybe it is a mother, who gathers her bath -tubbed brood about her and tells them stories, till papa “gets home from the club,” by which time the night- gowned little ones will be nicely cooled off, ready for a good night's res! Sometimes the door step will be the convalescent ward of the home hospital, and the patient, in robes of state de chambre, greets his friends with a faint smile as they call to him with a cheery word from the walk, sometimes pausing long enough to shake hands. About him will be solicitous friends, who will pes- ter him into a fever with unnecessary at- tentions. Now and then you will see an aged couple, whose lives are perilously near the limit, sitting, silently, side by side on the stone steps, their old eyes filled with longing for the children far away, if, in- deed, they have not outlived them all, Huli’s Hair Renewer cures dandruff aad scalp affections: also all cases-of baldness where the glands which fced the roots of the hair are not closed up, “ment showing is in the dive) AS BREAD WINNERS Tncrease in the Number of Women Engaged in Profitable Occupations. UNCLE SAM AND THE NEW WOMAN Now Found in All Callings Except That of Soldiers. INTERESTING STATISTICS —_—__+—___ Written for The Evening Star. HE REMARKABLE extent to which wo- .men are actively en- gaged in all branches of labdr is brought out very elaborately in the last bulletin from the United States census office. It demonstrates be- yond all doubt that the woman of today is found in every branch of human ac- tivity. One of the most noticeable features of the government publication is the disclosure that women are gradually leaving domestic pursuits and are engaging more extensively in manufac- turing and mechanical industries, trade and transportation, and in the professions. Since the previous census was taken the number of women engaged in profitable occupations has increased 47 per cent, while the increase among men is only 27 per cent. In 1880 the number of women engaged in profitable occupations was 2,647,157, while the present census shows the number at 3,914,711. That women are extending their service in the professions is shown by the remark- able increase of 75 per cent in that branch. Ten years ago there were only 17 =) men in the professions; now the number reaches 311,682. And while the numbers in professional service has almost doubled, those in domestic service has made but slight advance. Ten years ago those in demestic service numbered 1,181,506; now they reach 1,687,686. But it is in business occupations that wo- men show the greatest advance. The in- crease reaches 203 per cent in the subdi- ion of those engaged in trade and trans- portation, while thé increase is 62 per cent among those engaged in manufacturing and mechanical industries. These large percen- taxes of increase are said to be due to the general introduction of typewriting ma- chines and the demand for women as book- Keepet clerks, stenographers, typewriters and saleswomen. Diversity of Occupation. But the unique feature of this govern- y of occu- paticns to which women now turn their hands. It is a singular fact that in the hundreds of occupations specified women are enumerated as engaged in all but two, and these two are officers and soldiers of the United States army. There is even a woman pilot, holding a license from the United States government. There are four women railroad engineers and firemen. There are women blacksmiths, women ar- chitects, women roofe women veterinary surgeons, women watchmen and dete-tives, women molders, women coopers, women butchers, It will bring joy to the advocate of the new woman to dig into the details of this government showing and see to just what extent her sisters ere competing with the men. She will find her very well represent- ed among professions. There are twenty- two women architects, or about _one for every city of size in the gountry. The num- ber of women clergymen now reaches 1,235. The lady reporters are enumerat2d at 888. The women lawyers of the country number 208; women professors in colleges and universities, . The number of women physicians and rgeons has very greatly increased in the last ten years, now reach- ing 4,555. The women are in dentistry also to a considerable extent, the women den- tists numbering 337. There are tresses and‘ 10,810 artists and teachers of art. The prominence of women in lit- erary pursuits is shown by the fact that there are 2,725 women authors, while the number of male authors ts only 3,900. Of course it is in domestic lines of ser- vice that women are most found, although this prominence 1s rapidly diminishing. ‘There are now 1,205,000 women servants. It is the largest number of women engaged in any one occupation, There are 216,000 women engaged as laundresses; 51,000 as nurses; 86,000 as housekeepers; 32,000 as boarding house keepers, and 3,000 as jani- tors. It seems strange to find 147 women bartenders, and women saloon keep- ers. They are evidently making good de- tectives, for women are in service in this line. There are 30 women sextons. Commerce and Manufactures. In commercial lines women are again found at the front. There are 612 women commercial travelers. As real estate, in- surance, collection and other agents women show that they are in demand, as they now number 4,900. There are 500 women bank- ers. The peculiarity of the commercial lines which they enter show how they are pushing in every direction. For instance, there are two women auctioneers; 36 boat- men and canal men; 237 women hackmen and draymen; 24 women hostlers; 4 loco- motive engineers and firemen; 20 women sailors; 83 women undertakers; 55 women gaugers. Besides these, of course, there are large numbers in those branches in which women are commonly found. There are 28,000 women bookkeepers; 64,000 clerk: about 25,000 women merchants in variou: 000 typewriters; 58,000 saleswomen, ) telephone and telegraph operators. In manufacturing, women are almost a prominent as they are in commercial lines. There is an aggregate of 1,027,000 women in various manufacturing occupation: These include 3 women bakers; 5 blacksmiths; 915 brassworker: 10 builders and contractors 129 butcher: 191 carpenters and joiners; 8 carriage builders; 54 coopers; 9 distillers; 3 gravers; 89 gunsmiths and_bellhanger: 42 brick and stone masons; 99 flour and grist millers; 47 molders; 54 paper hanger: 3 roofers and slaters; 1 wellborer; 9 whit washers. These are given merely at ran- dom to indicate the numbers found in every occupation. The numbers are much greater in those manufacturing lines in which women are better adapted. There are 11,400 women bookbinders, 33,600 boot and shoe opera- tives and 13,000 box makers, Dressmakers, seamstresses and milliners mak very large showin; he first being 288,155; seam- stresses, 11 » and milliners, 50,068. The number of girl operatives is very large in all manufacturing lines. There are 03,000) of them in the cotton mills, 10,700 in the carpet works, 20,500 in the hosiery and knitting mills, 15,000 shirt, collar and cuff makers, 500 silk mill operatives, 27,000 tobacco and cigar hands, 36,000 woolen mill operatives, 9,000 in the paper mills, 6,500 in the rubber factories, 3,400 in the rope and cordage works, 6,700 in hat and cap facto- ries, 6,600 glove makers, and lesser num- bers in all the other large manufacturing industries. Away From the Factories, It is noticeable, however, that the number of girl operatives is not increasing in pro- portion to the increase In other lines, The younger generation of girls is evidently taking up Independent lines of work. They are getting away from the crowded facto- ries, mills and sweat shops where they la- bor mechanically, and are going into occu- pations in which their own brains direct and their own hands execute the work. They are rapidly increasing as compositors and printers, as electrotypers and stereo- typers, as photographers and as publishers ot books, maps and newspapers. The num- ber of women publishers is 219; of pho- tographers, 2,100. The amateur camera has undoubtedly been turned to profitable account by a good many women in late years. It is noticeable also that the girl apprentices, representing the youngest grade of female help, are choosing inde- pendent lines and specialties, rather than the overcrowding trades. Altogether, this government publication, it may be asserted, more than bears out | kinds of white, what has been claimed for the new woman, and, although Ufclé Sam has been rather tardy in giving her proper official acknowl- edgment, he has*made amends by the full- ress and uniqueness of this government Publication. i ——— RIGDOXS,AND HATS. Sume Decorative Dress Effects and . - Elaberate Headgear. All the old-time {fipbons have been re- vived this season, and we have lovely gren- adine striped an@ brocaded gauze ones, taf- fetas with lace edges, and every conceiv- able combination?of-colors in the charming chine ribbons, with blurred flowers. Figured ribbons are chogen @o trim plain fabrics, and plain or changeable ones for figured stuffs. The Dresden ribbons come in sev- eral widths of the same pattern. They give just the needed fouch of color with white gowns, and are also very effective on the thin black fabrics and with solid cool col- ors. A remarkably pretty way of trimming with ribbons is exemplified in an empire tea gown, which has the neck cut out square and bordered with a band of em- broidery, from which the softly flowered silk falis in full gath- ers to the feet. The leg-of-mutton sleeves come to the wrist, and lace ruffies fall over the hands, Chine ribbon, combining the two prominent colors of the gown, form great baby bows on the shouil- ders, and long ends fall to the feet in the front and back. Of course, there is a fitted lining. An ef- fective arrangement of lace and ribbon may be made by gathering lace into ja collar of ribbon, with a large bow in front under the chin, and catching the lower fullness, which must be long enough to come to the waist line, into a point under a belt of the ribbon, both back and front. From big bows on the shoulder fall capes of lace, and long ends of the ribbon, which follow the fflace to a point at the belt, over which a large bow is placed. Millinery is fantastic beyond precedent. Some hats are enormous in size, the aim being, it is sald, to balance extreme breadth of sleeves, and whole gardens of flowers nod around the crowns. Even bonnets are broaden- ing and expanding in the greed to mass together more of the season’s beautiful trimmings. Never were so many kinds of things jumbled to- gether. Fur is reall: the cnly thing that is left off. Some of the head ‘voverings are most eccentric in structure, and so cov- ered with wings and gauzy thirgs that the lcok like enormous bugs. One really can’t that all of them are pretty, though me of them are quite fetching above a pretty face, LARGE AND WHITE. How This Color Can Be Worn Without an Apparent Incres White’s the thing for summer w it you want to look cool, wear white. If you want to be cool, weir white. Some would- be funny creatute, in speaking of wearing white clothes recently, said that every- body knew that they caught and held the heat much worge than dark ones, but in e to the, aggepted idea that light clothing looked cooler punished themselves by wearing it. White clothing looks cooler and it is cooler than dark. That is, some he jthick white dueks and piques, When starched to the Imit, look cool, but they @#re Mot as broadclot! the other hand, soft henrietta and thin white serge and bunting, though all wool, are really quite enchantingly cool. One objection ‘to White has been that it increased the afiparent size. This is true of thick materials, which are plainly made and drawn over the figure, sho gf almost bursting outlines, but if the large woman who wants to wear white will select for the material a creamy thin wool, for in- stance, one that will fall in soft folds about her figure, and have the waist made with baby fullness on a yoke, and a touch of lace and ribbon about it, she will be pleas- ed to find that she can wear white and ap- pear as charming as ever. Or she may select organdie, or dotted swiss, or a faint- ly figured lawn. A full plain skirt, which is embellished with a simple hem, and has no lining, with lots of gathers in the back, and enough of them in front to keep the skirt from drawing, a full-fronted blouse waist, with a shoulder ruffle of soft cream lace, or white if the ground of the mater- ial is white, and big loose sleeves, will al- most make an ugly woman pretty. A very charming way of making the waist look longer is to set three strips of lace or em- broidered insertion in back and front from neck to belt, and under this place ribbons the color that you intend to wear with the frock, ard baste them slightly. They are easily removed, and with belt and collar of the same ribbens make an exquisite addition to the pretty toilet. Whatever you do, do not skimp in the fullness of the skirt, as that will spoil the whole thing, and do be sure that your petticoats are ex- actly the right length for your thin gowns. A short petticoat will make a ridiculous figure of you. ——.__. Coats and Jackets, Though big sleeves hold their own every- where else they have to get out of the way for outing suits. Women who adore the balloon puffs succumb to sense when out- ing togs are to be manufactured, because they realize that it would be quite im- possible to keep the weight of material inflated. Coats and blazer jackets for out- ing suits are in the greatest variety, and almost every taste and figure can be suited. There can’t be a great deal of novelty about the blazer jacket, _ be- cause it has been here so long, and bids fair to remaia indefinitely, but there are little changes to be noted. The short-skirted ef- fect is the best liked, as it is more com- fortable and _practi- cal. The Norfolk jacket is revived, with just sufficient change to suggest newness, and while it is especially becom- ing to slender women, those inclined to stoutness find it becoming, for the plaits ex- tend flatly the entire length of the short skirt, giving added fullness. The very swell- est jacket is the Eton, with the back length- ened by flaring skirts eight or ten inches deep, and there is a great fancy for plaited mull blouse fronts, having many frills of yellow Valenciennes edging. ‘A smart jacket of*the Eton family for a slender maiden is of dark blue serge over a vest of batiste, showing yellow satin through the open embroidery.; The collar and girdle are of yellow satin, as weil as the facings and linings. Cut steel buttons ornament the front and fasten the lower parts of the sleev — The Dream Wearied Her. From the Baltimore American, ‘The young married couple lived very hap- pily together. Qne morning, however, the young woman was very morose at the breakfast table, and behaved In a most ex- traordinary way. The husband noticed the change in her manner, but on being ques- tioned by him as to the cause of it, she would not give him satisfaction until he finally insisted on being told what was the matter. “Well,” she said at last, “if I dream again that you have kissed another woman, I will not speak to you again as long as I live.” ——_-+e+- Taken Up. From Life. He (at 11:30 p.m.)—“‘Are you ever troubled with insomnia?” She (wearily)—“Yes, very often.” He—“I have heard that walking in the open air before retiring is beneficial.” She (hopefully)—“Let’s try it! You do the walking and I'll retire.” sos Post Mortem Protest. From Truth. Dodge—“‘I attended a seance last night. The medium called up the spirit of Napo- leon.”” Lodge—“‘What message docs he send?” Deodge—"He deni everything and de- mands an investigation.” BLOOMERS ON WHEELS Selection of the Bike Depends en the Style of Oostume. ; Women Are Discussing the Merits of Diamond and Loop Machines—A Change in Sentiment. It would have taken a large assortment of courage a year @go to have asked your woman friend if she rode a diamond, now known as a bloomer or a loop wheel, but from the standpoint of public opinion then it would have been absolutely impossible for any lady to have even tried the former and not have given the world strong sus- picions that she and her petticoats were to be strangers ever more. ‘Twelve short months have rolled around, sentiment has entirely changed on the mat- ter, and while the picture woman in bloom- ers is, so far as this immediate locality is concerned, much more frequent in the pub- Uc eye than the model in real life, never- theless she is coming and not particularly concerned whether the rest of the world likes it or not. The conviction of being ahead a few months in any movement—it no longer takes years to populariz thing where the fair sex is conc. seems all that is necessary to cau laying aside of any traditions suspected of old fogy tendencies. Are the women here- abouts ready for this phase of the bike movement? A few of the advanced say they are. The patience and time given by most of the fashionables in learning how to ride, as well as all about the mechanism of their wheels and how to care for them and them- selves in emergencies, 1s pretty good proof that they intend to stick at it. Therefore any and everything which goes to make their riding easier and safer comes up for discussion. Economy is Considcred. The great majority of women do not in- tend to accumulate “centuries,” and find their clothes questions sufficiently bother- some now, without adding to their bur- dens trunks full of bloomers, short trou- sers and other paraphernalia advised by the advanced cyclist. More than that, most of the girls have their wheels bought, and they are not diamond frames either, and the question of the bloomer need not necessarily bother them at this stage. Girls nowadays are naturally thrifty, as the custom of letting them spend” their money their own way grows apace. A Fhinen of them were discussing the other y the merits of several makes of which the prices ranged from $50 to $100. The desire to own the best is uppermost, but to get just as much fun out of an expendi- ture of half a hundred as a whole one is a problem worth considering. Along comes a great big strong fellow, ho rides like he was a piece of the wheel itself creates consternation in the saving iin by saying: “Cheap wheels are no. good. fifty will soon slip away in That other some of them may be on women are going to get a ling they ought to ride dia- mond frames—and, of course, wear j:loom- don't look so horrified! It really sounds se than it Women always want to buy a light machine, because they have an idea lightness guarantees easy running. A wheel too lightly built has had sacrificed vital points essential for strength and speed. Now, the digmond frame is much lighter than the loop, such as women dinarily buy, and it is stronger and hetter in every particular. If the ladies keep on wearing skirts they give up the steadiest and strongest machine and the one they would find the easiest to control.” The Bloomer Inevitable. Now, if horrid man can calmly discuss the bloomer in this plain, sensible way, when a year ago he had decided opinions uncharitable of the woman who would dare to so unsex herself, well! does not this seem to change the whole situation? If women really want the greatest safety and speed conditions assured them, then the bloomer is inevitable, and if she thinks it is all right,and men say it is all right, and seemly, too, it is good as settled. Ten to one, a big step in this direction will have been made when granmamma, mamma and daughter bring back their wheels in the au- tumn after riding them all summer in the seclusion of country byways and lanes, with some practical ideas from experience on a subject now largely speculative. The women in New York and Chicago are making no bones over the bloomers. Three- fourths of them wear them but they cling to the loop frame, possibly because it has never occurred te them to €o otherwise. Here- abouts the bloomer or ‘knicks, without the protecting skirt, are as yet rather singular. There are, however, well devel- oped cases now and then to be seen on the read, and nobody appears to be much aghast at the spectacle. One bright yoang woman told a Star re- porter that the only thing that was keep- ing her from learning to ride wag the fact that women were holding back” from the bloomer and the diamond. She had not nerve enough herself to go in advance of the procession, but she wouid join them when the movement was assured, and the world had taken it for granted that it was the proper thing. The average life of a good wheel of the best make, under ordinary conditions,ought te be about ten years, and each year of its use it should have covered between two and three thousand miles. Many lit- tle repairs will have been needed mean- while, but two or three cheap wheels would have gathered to the junk piles in the same period, with scarcely any safety at all in their use. In the question of a wheel purchase the best is the cheap- est. ———— Lots of pice in Skirts. Fashion is anything but arbitrary this season, and if you except sleeves, is about as democratic a go-as-you-please dame as you ever ercountered. There are the skirts for instance. Anything from a three gore to a nine may be worn, and its wearer counted “stylish,” if she has that indefin- able something about her,the lack of which would render any gown not stylish. Then there are skirts with no gores at all. Just six or seven breadths of wide material sewed up and fastened to a band. Of course, such dresses are of the sheerest material, like organdy and swiss and mull, which do not take kindly to much “goring,”” since they must be made up without lining. Most charming dresses are made of these thin materials, the skirts having only a wide hem, and the waists stopping under a crush belt of the same, are of plainly made overhanging blouse pattern with a bit of lace at the wrist and throat. The under slip is usually of some tinted ma- terial, satine or silesia, with a simple foot ruffle and a rounded throat with elbow sleeves. A thin gown like that is cheap- ness itself, and a child might launder it. It is only when the thin goods is made up with silk linings and perishable lace trim- mings that such dresses become so amaz- ingly costly. Very few women seem to realize that a plainly made gewn, which looks easy enough to be comfortable, and airy enough to be cool, while® perhaps being neither, wili give to those who look at her the idea that she is both, and the immediate tem- perature is thereby lowered a degree or two. A tailor-made gown, by the very closeness of its fit and trimness of make, carries a suspicion of warmth, even though it be of the thinnest of lightweight woolens. —_.__ She Could if She Wanftd To. From the Chicago Times-Herald. On an Indiana avenue car it was a wo- man who took the conductor to task, after she had seen a man expectorate on the floor. “Conductor,” she called sharply, “do you allow spitting on the floor of this car?” “Anything you like, madam,” he replied. soe Renl Matters of Interest. From Brooklyn Life. Bingo—“Here 1 am taking two papers a day and you don’t know a thing that is going on. Mrs. Bingo (indignantly)—“I don't, don’t 1? Why, there isn’t a bargain sale in town that I don’t know about. ———_—-+o+ Loverlike. From the New York Weekly. Mrs. Gadd—“Did you see Mr. and Mrs. Biffers out in the rain? He held the um- brella over her just as carefully as if they were lovers.” Mrs. Gabb—“That new dress o’ her'’n spots.” MUN YON: HOMOEOPATHIC REMEDIES. fails to relieve in th: tinea ree hours and cure MUNYON’S Dyspepsia Cure is guar- anteed to correct constipation ses all forms of indigestion and stomach trouble. MUNYON’S Catarrh Cure soothes and heals the afflicted parts and restores them tobealth. No failure; a cure guaranteed. MUNYON’S Kidney Cure speedily cures pains in the back, loins or groins and all forms of kidney disease, MUNYON’S Nerve Cure cures nervous- ness and builds up the system. MUNYON’S Vitalizer imparts new life, restores lost powers to weak and debilita- ted men. Price $1.00. No matter what the disease is or how many doctors have failed to cure you, ask qn druggist for a 25-cent vial of one of funyon’s Cures, and if you are not bene- fited your money will be refunded. SOME STARTLING COLORS. The Need of Harmony in Selecting the Stylish Shades. Some of the stuffs on exhibition in the shop windows have colors that are posi- tively startling. They fairly set one’s teeth on edge to think of wearing them, just as green persimmons suggest puck- ered palates, and yet there are women who actually try to wear them. It is awful, but there seems to be no surcease of sor- row. There are some pinks that are so loud they almost scream their intenseness, and yet there are women who don them and smirk in full consciousness of their sinning, firm in the belief that they are in “style,” because they have on the last new shade or color! There is a queer kind of peacock-blue that is more than ordi- narily aggressive, and the only women who have dared to wear it yet positively look vicious in it. It seems as though women ought to have learned’ by this time that only the woman of dazzling complex- ion can afford to try the new colors. No matter how artistically you use the rouge pot and powder puff, blondine and black pencils, nature will assert herself and make a caricature of you if you persist in adopt- ing the howling colors that are sent forth at regular intervals. Loud dressing is at all times distinctly vulgar, and becomes hopelessly so when a woman deliberately sets herself to wearing each in turn as it comes out. On the contrary, nothing gives a woman a more refined appearance than a well-selected, harmonious color for dress, hat and sunshade. . Here is a trim example of taste in color, which a woman with a good deal of pink in her face can wear quite well. It is a study in green—rich, soft-shaded greens. The skirt is a fine serge in dull green, with innumerable rows of stitching at the foot. The blouse is of green satin and the jacket of hunter's green velvet, with facings of white satin embroidered with gold thread. The cuffs are like the facings, and the little coat is lined with the satin. The hat is of loose open-work straw, with gold butterfly and green and white chiffon. —_. —__ CHILDREN AND CLOTHES. To Effect Their Reconciliation is the Problem of a Lifetime. From the Philadelphia Press, To mention the two things together is to scent battle in the alr—a battle in which most mothers spend a good part of their lives. To patch up a peace between the lion and the lamb would be easier than to reconcile the average healthy, dirt-grub- Ling, play-loving child to his clothes. There is only one other sort of child, and that is the little prinking peatock who thinks too much of them; and between the two what is a distracted mother to do? Clothes must be worn—both the law and the climate re- quire it; likewise, they must be kept rea- sonably whole and clean; also, the children must be kept happy. To cap the climax they usually hate pinafores worse than the clothes they cover, and that makes things even harder for the children, the parents, or the clothes—sometimes for all three. In Cuba they manage things beautifully. There tots under seven and eight wander about clad in nothing—not a figurative, but a literal nothing—and the nursery world turns merrily on its axis. The life of the laundress is one unending song and mothers have nothing to scold their chil- dren about. But here, “which the same” is not Cuba, such-an insipid state of af- fairs will never be brought about while there are Fauntleroy suits and French gowns to be bought and put on helpless Innocents, whom, With the refinement of sarcas we afterwar ss sna ny. bid to “run out What on earth could a child play—savi possibly the piano—and how could he run in the elaborate costumes in which the small unfortunates are sometimes arrayed? I had Started out to define the duty of the children to their parents and their clothes but, as usnal, the other side is more ine teresting and TI must say a small some- thing as td the duty of the parents and the clothes to the children. It is hardly true, either, that the juvenile martyrs to fashion are found chiefly among the four hundred. who are frequently far more sensible on this point than the unelect and unselect four thousand, of whose offspring it might be said, “By' their frills ye shall know them.” Making due allowance for the mother-pride which so dearly loves to see fine feathers on her bantling, and for the real difficult$ of ‘making a person of thirty or thereabouts understand the feelings of a person of five or thereabouts, still I never see one of those disconsolate little mortals in purple, too rich and lien, too fine to permit of him enjoying himself. that the unworthy desire does not arise in me to entice him away from his guardian —or the guardian of his clothes—introduce him and the clothes to the possibilities of mnd-ple making, take him triumphantly back to his unnatural parents and run. This is, however, far from being what I Intended to say to’good little children who can (this is fact, not airy theory) and in- deed should be taught to take reasonable care of reasonable clothes. The youngster who deliberately wipes muddy hands on a fresh white skirt, walks into puddles with new boots, or roils down hill in a Sunday frock has the instincts of an anarchist and should be “nipped in the bud,” like Sir Boyle's rat. To put it tersely, in the words of one mother I know: “Children kick two sorts of holes into their shoes—those made unintentionally and those made intention- ally. The remedy for the first is a new pair of shoes; for the second, a spanking. It isn’t necessary to frighten a child with threats or worry him with the sharp re- minder that “clothes cost money” to teach him respect for property in clothes as in other things. Simply oblige the most de- structive of small rebels to keep on wear- ing, for a day or two, the dress or jacket or hat he has willfully spoiled or soiled, and a change will come over the spirit of his dream. Or, if the garment must be re- placed, a quiet refusal of some longed-for toy or pleasure because “mamma can't af- ford to buy you new clothes and that be- side,” has a wonderfully salutary effect. Children are quick to know justice when they see it, and though they would doubt- less rather tear the pinafore than wear it, the wearing after the tearing is a conse- quence which even the smallest sinner will appreciate and avoid. RAILROADS. BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILROAD, Schedule in effect June 8, 1895. Leave Washington from station corner of New Jersey ue and C st. For Chicago aud Northwest, Vestibuled Limited trains, 11.30 a.m., 8.20 p.m. ¥or ‘Cincinnati, ‘St. Louis and Indianapolis, Ves- tibuled Limited,” 8.45 p.m., express, 12.01 night. For Pittsburg ‘and Cleveland, express daity, 11-30 a.m. and 9.10 p.m. For Lexington and Staunton, 11.30 a.m. For Winchester aud way stations, a5.30 p.m. For Luray, Natural Bridge, Boanoke, Knoxville Chattunooga; Memphis and’ New Orleans, - 11. Pim. daily;’ sleeping cars through. For Luray, 3.45 p.m. daily. days, x4.55, 5.00, Baitimore, week ” x 37.10, 38.00, 8.25, 8.30, | x9.30, x10.00, 311,30 am., 112.10, x12.90, 12.15, 33.00, 3.25, X4.28, 4.31, "25.05, 15.10, 35.30, 6.36, x6.20, 6.30, 38.00, 8.15, x9.00, 11.15_p.m. and x1z.01 ‘night; Sundays, | 4.65, 27.90, 27.10," 8.30, x9.00, 10.00 a.m, 312.10, x12.30, 1.00, “x3.00, 3.25, 4.31, 15.05, 35.10, 6.30, x8.00, £9.00, °11.15 p.m., x12.01 night. For Annapolis, "7.10 aud 8.30 a.m., 12.15 and 4.25 p.m. Sundays, 8.30 a.m., 4.81 p.m. For Frederick, b9.00, 29.30, a.m, b1-15, 24.30 p.m. Hagerstown, 011.50 a.m, apd ab.30 p.m. For For Boyd and way points, °9.40 p.m. For Gaithersburg and ints, 26.00, 28.00 312.50, 0800, 04.33, 45.35," °7.05," *0.40, *11.30 p.m. For WasLington Juaction and way poluts, 69.00, 29.30 a.m, b1.15 p.m. Express teains stopping at Principal stations only, 24.30, 25.30 p.m. For Bay Ridge, week days, O15 ‘a.m., 4.28 p.m. 1.20 and eS et FOR NEW SORK AND PHILADELPHIA. All trains Maumimatcd with Pintech light. For Philadelphia, New Y Evst, week days (4.05 Dining Car), (7.00 Dinti Car), 8.00, (10-00 a.m. Dining Car), 11.30, Dining Cur), 3.00, (6.05 Dining Car), 8.0%) G2.01 night, Sleeping Car, open at 16.00 o’elock). Sundays, (4.55 Dining Car), (7.00 Dining Car), (9.00 5 Car), Dinkng Car), 8.00, (5.05 8.00, (12.01 night). Sleeping Car open ers, 10.00 p.m. Buffet Parlor Cars on all day trains. For Atlantic City, 4.55, 10.00 and 11.30 a.m, 12.30 pm. Sundays, 4.25" a.m., 12.30 p.tn. For Cape May, week days, 4.55 a.m., Saturdays ouly, 8.00 a.m.” Sundays onis aExcept Sunday. *Daily. bSunday’ © xExpress trains. . Baggage called for and checked from hotels an& residences by Ualon Transfer Co, on orders left at ticket offices, G19 Peunsylvania avenite D.Wp New York avenue and 15th street aud at depot. R. B. CAMPBELL, cH. SULL, Gen. Manager. Je8 PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD. Station corner of 6th and B streets. In Effect June 9, 1895. “ 10:30 A.M. PENNSYLVANIA LIMITED.—Puilman Sleeping, Dining, Smoking and Observation Cars Harristurg to Chicago, Cincinnati, Indianapolis, St. Louis, Cleveland and Toledo. "Buffet Varlor Car to Harrisburg. 10:30 A.M. FAST LINE.—Pullman Buffet Parlor Car to Harrisburg. Parlor and Dining Cars, Har- risburg to Pittsburg. 3:40 P.M. CHICAGO AND ST. LOUIS EXPRESS.— Pullman Buffet Parlor Car to Harrisburg. Sleep- ing and Dining Cars, Harrisburg to St. Louis, Cineinuati, Louisville’ and Chicago. 7:10 P.M. ‘WESTERN EXPRESS.—Pullman Sleep- ing Car ‘to Chicago, and Harrisburg to Cleveland, Dintug Car to Chicago. 7:10 P.M. SOUTHWESTERN EXPRESS.—Pullman Sleeping and Dining Cars to St. Louis, and Sleep- ing Car Harrisburz to Cincinnati. 10:40 P.M. PACIFIC EXPRESS.—Pullman Slecping Car to Pittsburg. 7:50 A.M. for Kane, Canandaigua, Rochester, and Niagara’ Falls daily, except Sunday. 10:30 A.M. for Elmira and Renovo, daily, except For Williamsport daily, 3:40 P!M. for Williamsport, Rochester, Buffalo, and ‘Niagara Falls daily, except Saturday, with Slee ing “Car Washington to Suspension’ Bridge via Buffalo. 10:40 P.M. for Erie, Canandaigua, Rochester, Buf- falo, and Niagara Falls daily, Sleeping Car Wash- Elmira. s ‘ew York and the East. ‘AL LIMITED,” Car from Bal for Philadelphia nd 11:00 40, 10:09, ing Car) ig 00 (Dinin; 10:00, and ust Express. 01 and 5:40 |. week-days, 230, 11:04 A 0 Limited), 4 , amd” 11:33 For Pope's Creek Line, 7:20 A.M. and 4:36 P.M. daily, except Sunda; For Annapolis, 9:00 A.M., 12:15 and 4:20 P.M. daily, ‘except Sunday. Sundays, 9:00 A.M. and 4:20 P.M. Atlantic Couat Line, Express for Richmond, Jark« sonville and ‘Tampa, 4:30 A.M.. 3:30 P.M. daily. Richmond and Atisnta, ‘P.M. daily. ich mond only, 10:57 AM. weekdays." ccommodation for Quantico, M. 7 4:25 P.M. week-days. sax For Alexandria, 6:35, 7:45, 8:40, 9:45, 10:57, 11:50 A.M, 12:50," 1:40, 8:20, 4:25, 5.00, 5:37, 10:10, and 11:39 P.M. Gn Sunday at 9:45 AM., 2:45, 6:15, 8:02, and 10:10 30, PM: Leave Alexandria for Pashingt 6:05, 6:43, 7:05, 8:00. 9:10, 10:15, 10:28 A-M.,_1:00, 2:15, 8:00, 223, 5:00, 7:00, "7: 00, SEASHORE CONNECTIO: For Atlantic City, 9:00 (Saturdays 41:00 A-M., 12:15 P.M. week-days, . daily. For Cape May, 10:00 (Saturdays only), 11:00 A. Week-days, and 11:35 P.M. daily. hrstena Ticket offices, northeast corner of 13th street and Pennsylvania avenue, and at the station, 6th and B streets, where orders can be left for the check- ing of baggage to destination from hotels and rcs- ee St PREVOST, M. vOST, J, R. Woop, General Manager. General Passenger Agent. JeS SOUTHERN RAILWAY. (Piedmont Air Line.) Schedule in effect May 19, 1895. All trains arrive and leave at Pennsylvania Passenger Station. 5:00 A.M-—Dally— Local for Danv' Manassa for Strasburg, daily, e: pt Sunday, a Lynchburg with the Norfc Western deur and with C. & 0. daily for Natural Bridge and on Fo Connects at & Dally—The, UNITED STATES FAST ct in Buffet Sleepers New Yi nd Washington to-dacksonvilie, ‘uniting at Ghee lotte with Pullman Sleeper for Augcsta; also Pull- man Sleeper New York to Mentgowery, with con= heetion for New Orleans; connects at Atlanta with Pullman Sleeper for Isirdunghom, Meniphis and St. is. aat0! P-M-—Local for Strasburg, daily, except Sun- 4:45 Daily—Local for Charlottesville. 10 Daily WASHINGTON AND SOUTH: WESTERN VESTIBULED LIMITED, composed of Pullman Vestibuled Sleepers and Dining Cars, Pull- man Sleepers Washington to Chattanooga, via Salis- bury, Asheville and Knoxville. New York to Mem- phis ‘vin Birmingham, New York to New Oricans via Atlanta and Montgome-y, and New York to Tu via Charlotte, Columbia and Jacksonville. Day Coach Washington to Jacksonville. Parlor Car Co- lumbia to Augusta. Dining Car from Greensboro’ to Montgomery. TRALNS BE WASHINGTON AND ROUND HILL eave Washington 9:01 A.M. M ‘and 4:39 P.M. daily, except POM. Sundays ouly, for Round daily except Sunday for Leesburg I for Herndon. Returning, arrive at’ Washington 8:26 A.M. und 7:00 P.M. daily, ond 2:25 P.M. daily ex- cept’ Sunday from Round Hill, 8:34 A/M. daily ex- cept Sunday from Leesburg ind 7:06 A.M. daily, except Sunday, from Herndon only. Through trains from the south arrive at ton -6:42 A.M. 2:0 P.M. Manassas Division, 9:45 A.M. daily, & gnd 8:40 A.M. daily from Charlottesville. Tickets, Sleeping Car reservation and information furnished at offices, 511 aud 1300 Pennsylvauia ave- e, und at Pennsylvania Railroad Passenger Sta H, GREEN, General Superintendent. J._M. CULP, “Traffic Manager. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent. L. 8. Brown, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept. CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO RAILWAY. Schedule in effect June, 1895. ‘Trains leave dafly from Union Station (B. and 6th and B sts. Hurough the grandest scenery in America, with the handsomest and most cowplete solid train serv- ice west from Washington. a 2:2 {. DAILY.—“Cineipnati and St. “1 Solid Vestibuted, Newly Equipped, tHelighted, Steam-beated’ Troin,” Pulluau's finest sleeping cars Washington to Cincinnati, Indianapo- lis and St. Louis without change. ‘Dining Car from Washington, Arrive Cincinvati, 5:00 a.m.; Indianapolis, 11:80 a.m., and Chleago, 0:50 p.m.j 40 EAL DAILY.—The famous “F. F.V. Lim- ited.’ A golid vestibuled train, with dining car and Pullman Sleepers for Cincinnatl, Lexinzton and Louisville, without change, Pullman Sleeper Wash- ington to Virginia Hot Springs, without change, Weck days. Observation car from Hinton. Arrive ntl, 5:50 pm: Lexington, 6:00 pun. ; Louse . hieago, 30 a.m.; connects 1D t for_all pout: vol PM. EXCEPT. SUNDAY.—For Old Point Claire and’ Norfolk. Only rail Tine. ort AT. PAILY.—Express for Gordonsville, faviottesvilie, Waynesboro, Staunton aud princi= GuNiteinia points, daily; for Riclmond, daify, ex- cept Sunday. “Pullman locations and tickets at company’s of fices, 513 and 1421 Pennsylvania avenie. mht “BUSINESS CHANCES. BETTER THAN A BANK. A small investment of $10 a month will buy a share in a real estate syndicate, now being organized by prominent Washington business men. The SECURITY IS UNQUESTIONED an@ the PROFIT 1s CERTAIN. Only a few more shares for sale. Write at once for perticulars to Box 84, Star office, jer-te