Evening Star Newspaper, June 1, 1895, Page 16

16 WOMEN ON WHEELS What Experience Points Out as a Suitable Costume, PRACTICAL IDEAS ON A TIMELY TOPIC The Needs of the Average Woman Who Rides a Bike. ae AS TO BLOOMERS AFETY, HEALTH and peace of mind are three. conditions which no woman can afford to lose sight of in the construc- tion of a bicycle out- fit. Women who have enjoyed all the delights of wheeling since its adoption by the gentler sex are inclined to think it a huge joke that in the make-up of the coming summer trousseau the fashionable female will be sure to include from six to ten bicycle gowns, to say nothing of hats, caps, shoes and various other neces- sary details. The average rider, however, is not going to worry herself with all this nonsense, although in choosing whut would be the very best thing for each occasion, only a few more worries would be added to what already besets the conventional- ities of everyday life. Among the thousands whg have not sur- prised any one more than themselves by going in for wheeling there is the widest possible limit of opinion upon what is best in the way of a suitable costume. To thoroughly enjoy the sport, it is necessary to be properiy dressed. The changes in the accepied habit for horseback riding have been so few and so slight in char- acter that practically the general appear- A Long Skirt. y wet! mounted has not ap- y varied in the last twenty years. ess with which som2 of them en tc the road has revealed, ho . the fact that they are sure of n inz but their newly found confidence, ind in their haste to get al ance of a la DI out of it have not waited to se: a suitable dress, nor, if they have it, to prop- erly adjust it to suit their individual needs* A fasmonabie young woman of the West End was abroad her wheel one of the windiest days lat Her dress had in- flated itself until at a distance she re- sembled nothing but a series of curves, end at close range seemed to be mainly ed in white Her ort discreetly kept behind her. Another, profiting by this spectacle, pin- s to her leggings with big lese by no means or- S attracted, as she rode y feminine eye. Now, both well able to af- but so far w:thin range, eve here are two girls ferd any number of vnable. to judge w fered answers best all the needs. The habit Is shortcr now and more scl- entifically cut and follows more accurately the outlines of the figure. The same can be said of the bicycle suit. Those who adopted a costume six or seven years ago, as the result of considerable experience,have found no reason to change but slightly from these original Ideas. The average woman's idea of 4 dress for the wheel is one in which she will feel as decently and properly clothed off the bike as on it, and when on it be.as little disturbed In the free- dom of her movements as is consistent with these conditions. If you want a notion of how Important this subject is just at present, spend an hour or two in any of the riding schools any day, and then watch the procession of wheels the fine afternoons on the uptown streets and the country roads hereabouts. All bicycles look alike to the novice, and all women on. wheels resembleseach other like sisters the first time you begin to pay any attention to them, but that phase soon passes away and women are the best crit- ics when their own sex is concerned. The majority of wheelers, judging by thetr com- placent mein, are well dressed for the sport. ‘A Star writer has made the rounds of the new riders and the old ones. The latter, it may be sald, in passing, are not near as old in years as the others, but much richer in ‘experience. The woman in bloomers does not appear to have gained any friends, as widespread as the movement has grown to rid women of some of the annoyances Bloomer Girl. with which the conventional attire is ac- companied. A woman in bloomers is an unlovely thing. Those who have found the most pleasure and benefit In wheeling feel sorry for her, and if she could stand on the sidewalk and hear the remarks, her daring would be short lived. All the professional teachers of the wheel are men, and it seems to be an unan- {mous opinion among them that the divided skirt {s the best arrangement yet devised. But the fellows who are teaching have all they can do to keep thelr pupils on the wheel, aud have little breath or strength to waste in advising them how to dr. Lots of women have taken all their lessons and conquered the wobbling wheel dressed in their ordinary street gowns, stiffened with haircloth, and organ-plaited to their waists. The smart ones, though, keep a weight skirt, something in the way of a cast-off, at the school for use there. With the bloomers and the divided skirt well out of it, or at least not visihb :, the best outfit of all yet devised is embodied in the foilowing: A skirt of dark flannel, reaching to the ankle and about three yards and a half wide at the bottom. The best authorities all agree that it should fit smoothly around the hips. The opening should be on the left side, if you mount the wheel on the right, 1 | er vice versa, otherwise there is just a chance for something to catch. A shirt waist with stiff collar, and cuffs and not over big sleeves, either belted un- der or over the skirt, is better than a tight bodice or a very* loose blouse. Flying rib- A Good Model. bons and every superfluous adornment are as much out of place as they would be on a riding habit, and detract just that much from a neat, trig effect. A short jacket, with the indispensable pockets, is so Bé.- erally becoming that women naturally wish the weather was always cool enough to be able to wear them. As for hats, some- thing to shield the eyes is absolutely neces- sary. A light-weight sailor is probably the best thing offered now. The soft Alpine was the most comfortable while the weather was suitable. Caps with visors are probably the best of all headgear, but they are not pretty in themselves and are rarely becoming, there- fore it is not hard to see that they will never be widely adopted. Jf the hair is dressed very high a straw sailor can be most comfortably worn pinned on, and if braided lew at the back; an elastic makes it the surest. A stiff sailor hat flopping up and down with the wind mgking half revo- lutions on the hat pin, causes more annoy- ance than a misfit gown, and contributes far more to the ungraceful appearance presented by some of the new riders. So much for the outside appearance. To dress properly for the wheel the under garments must be built on just as sure lines. A short corset is absolutely neces- sary. There are waists well boned, laced together at the sides with elastic cords, which have straps coming over the shoul- ders and buttons at the back and on the hips, to which the skirt, if one is worn, may be securely fastened. If the ordinary corset is worn, it must be very short on the hips, otherwise the movements are as much restricted as would be the case if you tried to write with a tight kid glove buttoned around the wrist. Two-thirds of the riders are now wear- ing knickerbockers, or “knicks,” instead ef tne usual skirt. They are made of a lighter weight than flannel, but conform to the outside skirt in color. White skirts are wors2 than useless. An alpaca skirt end “knicks” make a good combination. The former must be lined, or it will be too ht. A flannel skirt needs no lining. One will wear as well as the other, Leggings are more used in New York than here. It is too warm here from this time forward, and there are other objections, as they somewhat hamper free movements. A ccmfortably fitting buttoned or laced boot is considered better and safer than a low shoe, as the latter gives no protection cr support to the ankle. There are a great many devices to keep the skirts down, Weights and stch like have been tried, but, besides reminding the rider of their presence by smart raps now and then, have not accomplished any prac- tical results. The next best thing is to have an elastic strap sewed to each side of the skirf just below the knee. The exact place must be determined when the wo- man is mountcd. Slipping the foot through this, or having a loop hanging from it, to button on either the leggings if worn or the top button of the boots, will certainly keep any skirt not too wide in place. For costumes made by any but profes- sicnal habit makers, who, of course, will take no dictation, it may be well to suggest that the skirt ought to be a trifle longer in front than the back. Serge dresses of the styles of year before last, pretty much every woman has one or two of them, made @ little shorter all around and considera- bly so at the back and with the opening at the side most convenient, will answer all practical purposes, and a woman's natural ingenuity will soon develop the other es- sentials. The fashionable habit makers are getting all the way from $35 or $40 to $150 for the smart suits they have turned out lately. They are made to fit as symmetrically as the ordinary tailor dress and are made of whipcord cheviot or covert cloth. Some of them are weird arrangements of straps and fixings, but are probably not likely to give any more satisfaction than one laid out in a less complicated design. Ready-made suits are plentiful and popu- lar, because of their cheapness, and if they are well sewed ought to answer all the demands. Amateur dressmakers. are going to turn out most of the new rigs hereabouts or have done so already. In fact, the woman who has a good bicycle skirt pattern is a much toadied-to individ- ual just at present and can dictate her terms in the way of friendly regard in loaning it among her acquaintances. ——.—__ Wanted—A Curate! From Tid-Bits. The rector of a hundred years ago had somewhat peculiar ideas as to the quali- fications of a curate, if one may judge from the following curious advertisement, which appeared _in the St. James’ Chronicle of Mey 4, 1795: Wanted, immediately, a good, strong, bony man to act in the capacity of curate. He must be subject to the following par- ticulars, viz.: To have no objection to act as gardener, husbandman, and occasional whipper-in.. Any gent whom the above may suit, on application to Mr. B., at the Gray's Inn Coffee House, Holborn, may meet with immediate employ. N. B.—Char- acter will not be so much nequired as equestrian skill, and none need apply who has not undergone a complete stabalarian (sic) education. The curate of 1795 was evidently intended mcre for use than ornament. It-is often nS other way about with the curate of —__+ e+ —_____ Cause of Her Trouble. From Tid-Rits. “George!” It wasn’t what she said so much as the way in which she said it. She teck the word and drew it out until it was a long, tremulous filament of sweetness. ‘Yet there was a tinge of reproof in her tere. “George!” She only said it once in reality, but it is customary with story vriters to say “George” twice under these circumstances. “What is it?” “You Lave been squeezing my hand with cae regularity and emphasis for some time.”* “I know it,” he replied, with the frank- = that was characteristic of his manly rature. “Please don’t do {t any more,” and her voice dropped almost to a whisper. “No more!” This sounded like heart throbs of anguish (whatever they are), and his form shook with emotion. Why not?” “Because”. she faltered. “Go on.” “Because I have got a blister on my lit- tle finger.” ———+ee-— Tags on Her Children. From the New Orleans Times-Democrat. Eve heard of a mother, the other day, who employs a half-grown girl to help in the care of her three youngsters, aged two, four and six years. Being somewhat fear- ful of one of her cherubs straying away from the young nurs2’s care during the daily airing im the park, she was driven to the invention of a little plan, which undeniably adds peace to her maternal mind. She has caused three little tags to be made in brass, on which are inscribed the name and ad- dress of each. Just before they start on their health excursions a tag is carefully secured with a safety pin under the frocks of the girls and inside the waistband of the six-year-old boy’s knee breeches. The proud mother has not patented the scheme, and advises other parents to avail them- selves of her originality. DO YOU FEEL IRRITABLE? Take Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. It makes a refreshing, cooling beverage and is an invigorating tonic, soothing to the nerves. -THE EVENING STAR, SATUFDAY, JUNE 1, 1895-TWENTY PAGES. THRO’ BLUE GLASSES How Life is Seen by the Dys- peptic. STOMACH MONARCH OF THE BODY Importance of the Regularity of Diet. BEGIN WITH THE CRADLE DYSPEPTIC IS A misery to himself and a torment to his friends. Life is seen through blue glasses and nothing on earth is pleasing. There never was a cynic, a pessimist, an anarch- ist or a premeditated revolutionist who had unimpaired di- gestion and a heal- thy stomach. One dyspeptic the house will sour the whole family. Nine-tenths of the human race are born with a tendency to stomach troubles, and the mothers finish up the business by per- mitting their children’s internal organs to become the dumping ground of all the trash in the shepe of sweets and acids and stale fruit that pennies will purchase at the newrest corner grocery. Begins in the Cradle. z It begins Lefore that, even. The baby in the cradle has to take its dose of ignorant mothering. It cries; possibly a pin, a band too tight, a roll in its clcthing that presses its tender flesh fs irritating it. More than likely “a little indigestion” from its last overgorge of bad breast milk has given it the colic. The worried mother, thinking that “feeding” is the best medicine for a crying baby, and knowing that with its mouth full it can’t cry, immediately pro- ceeds to nurse it. The baby fills itself up to the chin, kick- ing and squirming, and often trying to get away from the breast, but pressed back. In utter exhaustion it falls asleep, to awaken in about ten minutes with a shriek that would make a Cheyenne. blush. For two straight hours that poor little victim of a mother’s ignorance or indolence will writhe in the agony of colic, its tender stomach tormented with deluges of pare- goric, peppermint, catnip tea and a lot of other messes, which fill it up till the tiny sufferer calls nature to ald and throws all the horrible stuff up, and then it falls asléep, perspiring, white and limp. For hours its little frame will be sore and aching, and it will moan if stirred. Yet in less than twenty-four hours it will have to go through the same experience. Is it much wonder that the weanling is fretful ard dubbed a cross baby? Just fill an adult up on sweets and ices, bread and meat and pastry. Let his stom- ach get to grumbling; then take him to a big dinner and fill him up again. You can’t safely remain in the same house with him till he gets over his {ll temper, headache and indigestion. With the constant irritation of soured, undigested focd the child’s stomach gets Into the same diseased condition, and un- less it has a consiltution of iron it de- veleps into a whining, peevish, nervous youth and a dyspeptic adult. The remedy for this condition of affairs les in finding what suits each one's needs in the way of sustenance, and then serv- ing just those things at stated periods. Long fasting is as fatal to good health as much feasting. Both extremes should be avoided by those who wish to retain good complexions and perfect health. Regular- ity im all the conditions of life is absolutely essential to one who has inherited weak digestion, and just as essential to one who has a good digestion and desires to keep it. Feeding the Baby. As the start for poor digestion begins in the cradle there is a good place to start to remedy a national disease. Have regular hours for feeding the baby and feed it then and no other time. Overheating, fits of temper, worry and anxiety, acid foods, tea and coffee, these and a dozen other things feed disorder and indigestion to the baby through the mother's milk, and the effect will show when the little one gets colicky, sleepless and has protracted. spells of cry: ing. A baby should nurse once in two hours for a month, once ‘in three hours for four months, and once in four hours after it is five months old. The mother who will establish such regularity of meals for her baby, and not let it gorge itself, will find that it will readily accommodate itself to them, and never trouble her with demands for nourishment between times. But if she has a habit of catching it up every time it cries and feedjng it a little the youngster ‘will soon learn that it has but to shriek and it will be taken up. Ba- bles are cunning creatures and perfect tyrants. A perfectly healthy child ought to eat at regular intervals, say, four times a day; have only plain food and sufficient to sat- isfy hunger, but never be permitted to gorge itself on any dish of which it is par- ticularly fond. The habit of “piecing” is almost criminal. Indeed, that a diseased stomach will turn a man into a criminal is a scientific fact. If a child ts not strong its digestion will be naturally weak, and it should have its food carefully prepared, and eat a little oftener, because It does not eat so much at a time, and the human body has to have fuel to Keep it running prop- erly. in Cure of New Diet. If you say “diet” to a man who calls in a doctor he flies into a passion and declares that he will eat what he wants and when he wants it, and that it does him no harm. Probably if he had heeded the warnings of nature and been moderately careful of his diet the doctor would never have been called. Your own good sense will tell you that if you throw water on the brightest fire it will smother it and long enough con- tinued will leave a blackened mass of ruins. Hence, if you eat things that you know have always disagreed with you, you can’t help knowing also that you will put out the fires of healthy combustion in your body, and that if you keep up the indiscre- tion you will at last wreck your health com- pletely. Women are the most careless, indis- criminating eaters In the world. I heard a woman say at a restaurant table recently, where she was lunching with friends, that pie did not agree with her and that milk always soured on her stomach, but that they were “so filling,” and when she was in a hurry with her shopping she always took pie and milk, to get through quickly, and then finished off with some chocolates to “munch” on. I looked at her plate and she had two kinds of ple, and a glass of half cream and half milk. When she got up to leave, I saw that she was afflicted, as indiscrimin- ating eaters generally are, with e large abdomen. Her habits of eating, as dis- played in her luncheon, very largely ac- count for it. She ate things that “filled her up,’ to put it coarsely, and caused flatulence, distending the stomach with gases. Drinking great quantities of liquid, such as tea and coffee, or a great deal of milk or water, will distend the stomach in the same manner, and cause the uncom- fortable “full” feeling, of which so many women complain, and which is only a species of indigestion. Bolting one’s food is another way of superinducing fatty folds about the abdo- men. Nearly everybody eats too fast, and a failure to properly masticate one’s food is sure to bring on a disagreeable hour, while the overworked stomach is grum- blingly performing its labor. To Keep Good Temper and Looks. The woman who wants to be considered bright and handsome and charming has got to pay strict attention to her diet, if she ever suffers with attacks of indiges- tion, because one attack brings a second in its train, and soon she is a confirmed dyspeptic. A woman whose stomach Is out of order gets jaundiced eyes as well. She becomes critical and carping. Always being uncomfortable, ske can’t well be pleasant in_ manner. If there 1s a tack in one’s boot, one is going to frown. If there is a “misery” in the stomach, it will make itself felt in the face, and in the voice. No man living likes @ soured woman. T! is a woman who sees things through -blue glasses, and thinks that “nothing that is, is good.” The wit of a wo! 10 is always com- plaining loses its Kedpness. It degener- ates into mere fault-finding. Then, too, indigestfon/and dyspepsia are deadly foes of the ‘eémplexion, and of green old age. Impaired digestion will make its presence kftown in a pimply and blotched face, dead-looking skin, dry,harsh- feeling hair and dull eyes. How Women Eat. Mrs. Rorer says: -“Women eat abomin- ably! I do not speak ‘of the manner in which‘ they eat, but of their food. They usually eat on the economic plan, which 1s really the most extravagant course they coule pursue. They save a certain amount in food, and spend double the amount in doctor's bills. They*must learn to eat from a scientific standpoint and’ consider their habits of life, their occupations, both physical and mental, and select their diet on scientific principles, if they would ob- tain the best results. Certainly human beings are capable of as high culture as animals, and since horses and cattle and dogs and sheep are fed and trained for the purpose of bringing out cer- tain desirable qualities, and over feeding or impure food is considered a calamity, why will not the same rules hold good for the human creature, as well as for the animal? SENORA SARA. ee SUMMER STYLES FOR MEN. Knickerbockers and Bright Colors the Thing This Year. From the New York Sun, Scotch goods in fawns and grays are the materials most in vogue this summer. That most useful of all suits, the blue serge, will be as strictly proper as it has been for several years past for morning wear. There bas been very little change in the cut ind style of sack sults; some tailors will make the coats a little longer and a few of them will make the coats double- breasted unless they are urged not to do 80. The city man who ts anxious for color may get it jn his waistcoats and shirts. White and white figured single-breasted waistcoats promise to-be more popular dur- ing the warm weather than ever before. ‘There will be plenty of color in the shirts and ties. There are already displayed in the shop windows the brightest of blues, the most vivid of pinks, various shades of heliotrope, and other equally lively colors in shirts. A novelty, and an expensive one, is the plaited shirt of thin, fine linen, which is to be worn In England, and will undoubt- edly be taken up here. Plaids of all kinds and colors will be worn in narrow four-in-hand ties. ‘The butterfly, and with it the other large “artistic” bows of a year or two ago, will be out of it en- tirely this summer. The plain, straight bow, the narrow four-in-hand, or the very large plastrons are to be the things. It is prebable that the plastrons will be worn very much more this fall than during the summer. They have been very popular in London this spring. The English plastrons that have come over to this country con- tain about a yard and a quarter of cloth, and they are to be tied very loosely. This makes rather too cumbersome a tie for warm weather, although the material is light. These ascots of huge dimensions made of silk or foulard are held in the center, where the two aprons meet, by a large pin, a medallion, or a small cameo, and they are then puifed out so as to ex- tend some distance tyo9m the shirt front, as a frill would do. These ties have been worn with frock coats If London. Men who have been’ carefully nursing the straw hats that they wore last season, in the hope that t may have them cleaned and fool’ theit friends with them this year, will be disappointed. The straw hat for the summer of ‘95 has a much Ligher crown and a bprrower brim that that of a year ago, i lighter, and cort- sequently more comfqt{ible to wear. Only the men who invariabty, carry thelr gloves in their breast pocke¥s, with the ends of the fingers sticking @\{t to indicate that they are there, will {iifulge in colored hat- bands this summer. ‘his, of course, does not apply to college.mien who choose to wear their college colors in their hatbands, though of recent yedps that little display has been indulged in'chiefly by freshmen. The colored hatband'‘has een doomed to the fate of the colofg? sash. . The best straws will be encircted by black or dark- blue bands this summer, Self-respecting men have objected ‘loudly to the spring and summer derbys that haye been offered as the correct thing by hatters. The crowns of these hats are low and square in their effect, and they have not yet become popu- lar. The new derby is not becoming to the average man, and the. hatters are finding that they cannot force them. There are some new and pronounced styles in russet leather shoes, which will be worn by the young men who tuck their four-in-hag's into the bosoms of their shirts just above the first stud, and delight in monogram shields that button around the neck like a bib and are worn with even- ing dress to protect the shirt front. Some of these advanced russets have buttons down the side and are in light colors. The russet has been accepted as a sensible un- dress shoe, and it will be worn again this stmmer by the men who know, but they will not indulge in button russets of light shades. The darker shades are the thing, and they should be laced and not buttoned. But, above all things, the young man who gces out of town for the summer should dress as if he rode a wheel and played golf, whether he indulges in either sport. SS The Skeleton Market. From the Chicago Mail. : A professor in a New York medical col- lege told me yesterday that just at this time there was an unusual scarcity of ma- terial in the skeleton market. As with everything else, there is a wide range in the price of skeletons. The domestic article may be had for $50, while the imported runs from that to $500, the average price for a good French skeleton being about $150. In the high-priced article the nervous and circulatory systems are preserved. An ordinary skull, with cross bones, such as are used at the feasts of the ghoul clubs, may be had for $10, but a real fine article that will unhinge and let you see what is contained inside will cost you in the neigh- borhood of $25. The very finest specimen of articulation is a skull that costs $75. A slight pressure on a spring is sufficient to open the cranium, end all the nervous sys- tem of the head is revealed, quivering as if it were filled with life. The illusion is produced ‘by attaching each part to a spiral spring or wire, which is in turn fastened to an upright brass rod. Second-hand domes- tic skeletons can often be purchased as low as $15 or $20. They are first prepared by amateurs, either medical students or jani- tors of hospitals, and when the students are through with the bones they are will- ing to let them go at almost any price. If you want a foot or a hand, you can buy them separately, but most articulators ob- ject to selling arms, ribs or collar bones unless the purchaser is willing to take the entire frame. A Master’ Stroke. From the Chicago Interior: I was talking to Dr‘ ‘Holmes one day in bis Beacon street study, when the conver- sation turned upon his classmates who were living. “‘Now,;there’s Smith,” he said. “His name willbe honored by every schoolchild in the land;when I have been forgotten a hundred-years. He wrote ‘My Country, ’Tis of Thee. If he had sald, ‘Our Country,’ the hymn Wdéuld not have been immortal; but that ‘my’ was a master- stroke. Every one who sings the hymn at once feels a personal ownership in his native dand. The hymn will last as long as the country.” a The Burden, of Wealth. From Der Scbalk. au A—What are you going to do, now that you have amassed so large a fortune?” B.—“I shall retire from business and tell everybody what a burden wealth is, and rae happy I was when I possessed noth- ng.” —__—_+0+—___. Ready to Dodge. From the New York World. Wool—‘‘Wagner will surely be the music of the future. Van Pelt—‘‘Ye-es; I wish I knew in which place.” —_—___+- + ______ A Riot Inevitable. From the Chicago Record. My Bystander—“Help! Help! Police!” Policeman—‘What’s the trouble?” Bystander—“There’s an Italian opera singer going south in Michigan avenue and a Wagner crank going nor and they’re bound to meet, sure as fate, WHAT MEN WEAR When They Hunt or Play Tennis or Golf in Style. The “pink” coat supposed to be sacred to one who rides to hounds isn’t pink at all, you know, but scarlet, a real cochineal dye, manufactured entirely in England, and very expensive, and possibly that is why there has been such an effort made to adopt it here as “the” coat of the hunting clubs. This is the ultra style for hunting, togs, as set forth by one who professes to know it all: “If you are a member of a meet, and it is in season, you should array yourself in scarlet hunting coat, fancy hunting vest, white scarf, fox tooth or horseshoe pin, leather breeches and boots.” If you essay the ultra English style thus described you will look like the pic- ture, and certainly an Anglomeniac could ask nothing more, since H. R. H. gets id himself up after that fashion when he rides to hounds. The breeches are roomy about the hips, but come dcwn tight about the calf, and show three buttons just above where they slide into tho patent leather blucher boots. Some men prefer the tightly-buttoned pink Prince Albert for regular hunting wear. Of course, there is always a ball after a big meet, and full dress of pink is quite the thing. It should be of the regulation cut of the black evening attire. The collar is generally faced with the club colors, and the coat tails are lined with white or black satin. The correct breeches are of either white or black satin, knickerbocker style, and black silk stockings and low slippers finish up the grotesque garb. Men who hunt are not going to car all the colors, though, for men who “ are strictly in It, so far as fantastic dress is concerned, and much the ‘same attire is worn for wheeling. ‘The regulation golf suit is of tweed, sack-coats or Norfolk jackets, knickers, Madras or cheviot shirt. hose with long ribbed tops, in stripes or checks, turned over, making a kind of heavy band at the calf of the leg. The head covering should be a soft hat or cap of tweed, the same as the suit. That ge! up is for field days. For receptions each golf club is supposed to have a special uni- form, bright red coats, gold buttons and a lot of gold cord and lace. and all the insignia that each one can don! Won't they look gorgeous? If matters keep on at this rate men will be in colored evening dress almost before they know it, and there are a few who are bold enough to say that they are glad of it, as there will then be some hove of identification between them and the waiters at a swell function. Of course, a lot of men will play tennis. But to play the game properly they must be properly ciad. White duck trousers, sack coat, Madras shirt, tennis shoes and cap will be about the uniform that will be accepted this season. If a man is ex- tremely dainty he can wear white flan- nel sack coat, with cap to correspond, and flannel trousers, or, in extreme cases, a figured white flan- blazer, but the of giddy blazers men has gone by. The trousers must be turned up at the bot- tom. That little mat- ter must be attended tly, else it se the wear- incorrect 5 trousers the game. For yachting blue serge is the only per- missible material, made with a reefer jacket for wet weather. Pink is the ac- cepted color for yachting shirts; next to that, blue. An authority on men’s clothes says that “a gentleman going out of town is priv- ileged to wear almost any costume he has a mind to.” It is quite decided that men who cannot leave town should wear lounge suits in brown, blue or gray until dinner time. sees SIS Lost—A Brother's Ashes. From the London Dolly News. A novel claim is being made upon one of the great French railway companies. A gentleman who came to Paris to have the body of his deceased brother cremated at the crematovium at Pere Lachaise ceme- tery took the ashes aw: in a handbag, and, previous to setting out on his return journey to his home in the country, de- posited the bag at the “consigne,” or cloak room, of the railway station. When he came back to claim it it had gone. Some cne had come and claimed a bag, and it had been given up, probably by mistake. In- quiries were instituted, but the missing bag could not be discovered. The gentleman has therefore brought action to recover damages for the loss he has sustained, and the judges will be called upon to decide what is the money value of a brother’s ashes. ——__+e. The Bullets Were Genuine, From the Atlauta Constitution. “Yes, sir,” said the Georgia land agent to the northern prospector, “you kin plough up a peck o’ bullets here every week.” “But, are they genuine “You bet they air! Don’t I buy ’em an’ plant ‘em myself? An’ right whar you're a-standin’ is a bombshell that I traded a cow for, an’ it’s gittin’ jest as rusty as If it wuz throwed thar by the war!” —_——+ee. The Fad of Trimming. White embroidery appears on every- thing now that appertains to a woman’s toilet. Even parasols have caught the craze, and one charming summer girl has a cover for her pale green parasol of sheer- est mull, with a thousand ruffies—more or less—of the very finest embroidery. Actu- ally it locks like sacrilege to appropriate the exquisite stuff to the base use of en- snaring an unsuspecting man’s heart. These hand embroideries are as handsome as any lace or chiffon that was ever manu- factured, and the beauty of the fad is it can’t be made common, because it costs like the mischief. Of course, the wash gowns can be trimmed with the pretty Hamburgs, and, after all, embroidery. be- Jongs on wash dresses. There is something incongruous in putting cotton trimming on @ magnificent pompadour silk or a board- like satin. The tendency to run riot in trimming Is on the increase. Lace edges everything that embroidery doés not. It is whispered that before July suns drive fagged-out so- clety to the country dress skirts will have gone into a delirium tremens of ruffies that wriggle in ever-decreasing width from hem to waist. Each ruffle will be edged with lace. Down the front, on each side of the front breadth, will be a row of ribbon bows holding each ruffle down. The shoul- ders will not stop till the elbow is reached, and there undersleeves will fall from under @ full ruffle. Now contemplate that pic- ture in your mind’s eye, and then refresh your artistic sense with a look at this per- fectly plain yet exquisitely fashioned Irish lawn—pale green with a hair-line stripe of red. The waist is all-over embroidery made over pale green, and the collar and belt are of red velvet, just the shade of the stripe. rshould pay. ———————————— CHAMPAGNE HAIR WASH. Unobjectionable on the Score Health, but Rather Too Expensive. Miss Wilhelmina Popkins never told a soul. It was quite six months ago that some-of her particularly intimate friends, as a writer for The Evening Star was told, noticed that her hair -vas. getting lighter. From a chestnut brown it seemed to te changing toward the golden—not all of it at once, apparently, but a tress hero end there showing a tinge wf yellow. Envious Miss Bobbins—formerly on the closest terms with Miss Popkins, but now a bitter enemy and rival—declared that it was peroxide of hydrogen. This was absurd and easily refuted, for that is not the way in which a hair bleach acts. Furthermore, Wilhelmina herself declared with i:digna- tion that it was a story, ani that she nad never in her life bought an ounce of any chemical or other cosmetic for the hair; nor, under any circumstances, wovid she think of using such an avomination. Evidently it was a freak. Ordinarily the hair becomes darker with age, but with Wilhelmina the case was jast the reverse; from being a half-way brunette she was turning into a golden blonie. Before leng all of her hair had assumed a tint about five shades lighter. H was now leat brown, with a gilded gleam in ceriain lights. Even her father, who almost never takes notice of anything, remarked the alteration, The old gentleman, as ever body knows, wears a monocle. ‘The other day he fixed the glass in hic right eye and gazed upon his daugnter across the dinner "he said, “what is the mat- ter with you? “The matter with me, papa?” she replied innocently. ‘Really, I don’t know what you mean.’ “You didn’t get Into the fa this week by accident, «id you?” “No, papa.” “1 thought perhaps you might. You seem to have come out several shades lighter.” A Wilhelmina pouted, and nothing further was said on the subject. The conversa- tion dropped. In the Popkins household ecnversation has a way of dropping, no matter what may be the subject ‘under dis- cussion. It drops and nobody says any- thing for quite awhile. In comparatively few families do the members have much to say to each other; they have talked each other out long ago. J On this occasion the silence was inter- rupted by Mr. Popkins, who said: “John, I think I will have a bottle of that champagne. You know—the Veuve Clicqtot. I bought two cases of it last year, and, though it was recommended to me as particularly excellent, I have not ily wash tried it yet. I think I may as weil sam- ple it.” John, the butler, bowed and withdrew. More than ten minutes elapsed before he returned, and then he said simply: “There ain't no champagne, sir.’ “But I tell you that you are mistaken,” replied Mr. Popkins. “I bought two cases, and I remember that they were delivered. Two baskets, you understand, each of a dczen quarts.” “The baskets are still there, sir, but they are empty. BD “Yes, sir.” “How could such a thing happen?” roar- ed Mr. Popkins. “I don’t know, si “Who has the keys to the wine cellar?” “Myself, sir; and Miss Popkins has an- other. i The master of the hovse coughed omi- rously and made no further remark at the moment. He sipped his coffee gloom- ‘ly, and, when the butler had left the room, svid “J shall discharge that man at once.” “Why, papa?” asked Wilheb a. “Because he has etolen that wine.” Miss Popkins flushed and looked anxious. Said she: a “I don’t belleve it, papa. John does not drink a drop of anything, you know.” “Butlers nev responded her father grimly. ‘(That is to say, they do not drink when ‘anybody is looking.” “But Iam sure that he did nbt take the Well, my dear, I am satisfied that he dia take it. Nobody else hes a key to the © bin, except yourself. ithelmina flushed again. “You may tell John that I would like to see him in the library after dinner,” con- tinued Mr. Popkins, rising from the table. His indignation was clearly expressed in his heavy footfalis, as he was heard mount- ing the stairs to-his “den,” as he called it, on the second floor. He had not been there five minutes when his perusal of The Evening Star was in- terrupted by a knock at the door, and in walked, not John, the butler, whom he ex- pected, but his daughter. She came up behind his chair and put her arms around his neck, a long curl with a glint of gold in it falling over his waistcoat. ear papa!” she sald. “Well, pet?” he replied, knowing that this form of address by his daughter al- "ways meant that a request was coming. “You will not discharge John?” “Of course I will. There can be no doubt that he took the wine. I saw it delivered myself, and I suppose he thought that I had forgotten all about having bought ed “Well, then, papa, because I cannot stand by and see an injustice done, I shall have to tell you all about it. I know that John did not take the wine.” Recatad can you know? He alone had the e} No, dear papa. key, you know.” ho, pray?” Your little hopsekeeper, of course.”” “Yourself! why, certainly. But you are not going to tell me that you stole the wine?” uch is the fact, papa.” “You are joking!” “Not at all. I took it—indeed I did.” “But—but you astonish me. You do not drink champagne!” “No, papa,” replied Wilhelmina, with a Uttle sob, “but I—I have been using it for another purpose.” “Goodness me!” exclaimed the old gen- tleman. “Do you mean to tell me that you have been filling up that beau of yours, young Toodles, with my Veuve Clicquot?” “No, papa; that is not it. But Mr. Too- dles admires the blonde type of beauty— boohoo!—very much; and I have been us- ing the wine on my hair to make it—boo- hoo: iter. “Oh!” said Mr. Popkins, with a gasp of astonishment. “So that is.why you have been turning yellow recently.” “Not my complexion, I hope, papa. But— beohoo!—you will forgive me, won't you?” “I guess there’s nothing else for me to do,” responded the old gentleman. “The champagne is gone, and you-ought to be spanked; but I suppose you are too old for that. But next time, if you must have wine to wash your hair with, give me an oppor- tunity to buy a cheaper brand. Thirty dollars a case is a little high for a cos- metic, even if the effect is so fortunate as to gratify the aesthetic eye of Mr. Too- dies. No, under the circumstances, I shall not discharge John.” “Thank you, papa!” said Wilhelmina. —_—._ DRESSMAKERS’ BILLS, Somebody else had a A French Story With a Moral for Ex- travagant Wives. From the New York World. Following the dispute of Mrs. Cooper Hewitt and her milliner comes the story of a frantic discussion in Paris as to whether a man is responsible for the bills his wife may run up at her dressmaker’s. It has always been supposed that in such a case as this the unfortunate husband would have to open his pocket book wide and pay the amount, even though his heart strings tugged. But the Paris courts have said no to this, and there is a wild stir in consequence throughout the entire world of bodice, skirt and coat designers, The story is a simple one. A certain Parisian manufacturer had a spouse who while exemplary in every other respect ‘had for two years been running up a dress- maker's bill and paying nothing on ac- count. The bill finally assumed the amaz- ing proportions of $2,200. The husband, meanwhile, was in complete ignorance of her extravagance, and his first intimation of it was upon presentation of the bill. As- suming the mastery of his household and bidding defiance to the world at large, he contested the claim, with the result that the court of appeal cut down the bill to $1,200 and decided that that was all he The argumente of the French judiciary were that the husband was not bound if his wife’s expenditure was out of proportion to his means and out of propor- tion to the circle in which they both lived. The crucial point in the case was that dur- ing these two years the dressmaker had pase neither inquiry of nor referred to im. IF YOU WANT A RELIABLE DYE THAT WILL po dogs even prea ae black, a = sa rou every ime, use Buc ams for the Whiskers Be A SOCIETY GIRL. EXPERIENCE OF ONE OF OSWEGO'Y FROMINEMT LADIES. Living in an Agony of Fear for Months—Every Day a Fresh Chapter of Horror and Suffering. From the Oswego, N. ¥., Palladium. £% The following is the story of Miss Elizabeth Will- Jams of 110 West Third street, Oswego, N. ¥., @ lady prominent in society circles, told a reporter of the Oswego Daily Palladium, who called upon her at her home in that city yesterday. Miss Will- jams is the deughter of the late Capt. Wm. Will- iams, who was for many years master of some of the finest passenger steamers on the great lakes and an inspector and rater of hulls for the Lieyd’s marine records on the lakes. The story of her iilness, given in her own wa: follows: “I was always regarded as healthy and robust by my family and friends; in fact, I hardly knew what sickness was until the winter of 1S I was then taken down with an attack of la grippe, from the attending effects of which I did not recover for ponte, Tuere seemed to be a general break down in my health and constitution, wi “4 carly summer with nervous. prostration: art elatie rheumatism. J can't describe my syinpioms. My Xppetite was gone and for weeks I was unable to eat or relish food but sparingly. I lost flesh rapidly and was as thin as a shadow. Local physicians at- tended me constantly. After months of treatment Se ee ont took my brother's advice and. Radhes inten, Slee? a eMicacious for first box I noticed an improv condition, I began to relish eu: matism troubled me less. Grudually. the general tone of my health improved and my rheumatic palus left me entirely. I regained strength and took on flesh, until today I regard myself as theroughly free from all ailment and in perfect health. My iriends noted my improvement and I have never hesitated to tell them what Dr. Williams’ Pink Pilis did for one sufferer. It is that others may be benefited that I make this statement and relate my ex- periences.”” Dr. Williams’ Pink Pilis for Pale People are con- sidered an unfailing specitic for such diseases as locomotor ataxia, partial paralys! Vitus’ dance, selatica, ‘neuralgia, “ rheuin nervous headache, the after effects of la grippe, pulpitation of the Beart, pale and sallow complextons, that © resuiting from nervoas prosttation; all diseases resulting from vitiated blood, such as scrofuln, chronle crys are also a specific for’ trout stch as suppressions, irr of weakne all cases excesses of whatever nat amors in the , ete, They uliar to females, ‘alarities and all forms a radien . Dr. Williazas’ lers, or will be sent post (50 cents a box, or six never sold in bulk or by Williams’ Medicine Co., hey ai the 100) by addressing Dr. Schenectady, N.Y. COLLARS OF FLOWERS. They Are Pretty When Suitable, but That's the Rub. Floral ruffs are a feature of the day, and it is to be hoped that they will be a fad- ing fancy, for anything more hopelessly unbecoming to the average face than a collar of flowers can scarcely be imagined. After twenty there comes into the freshest face a shadowy something which makes, or shculd make, the owner very careful about the colors worn next to the skin. Most of the new colors are trying in the extreme to any but the freshest complex- ion, and yet you see women past their prime putting close up under their double chins wreaths of flowers so giddy in color that they shame the rainbow, and everybody sud- denly begins to ask why in the world “so and so” has gone so -sud- off in looks denly. has not go! Jooks at. ali, only in sense of the eternal fitness of things. In point of fact, one may wear almost any color der the canopy until one is a great grandmother, and never have the propriety of it questioned, if the colors are only separated from the face by softening lace, or the intervention of some dark color. Here is a ruche of pink roses, which will make a bewitching muffler for a young girl, but if her mother tries it, people will declare thet she has trouble with her hus- band and is contem- plating a divorce, in trying to explain why she “looks so poorly!” But mother can wear them if she will select roses not half so large, a little fainter in color, and will set each one in a nest of black lace from which it mere- ly peeps out. A very old lady, one who has pretty gray hair and soft fine skin, should put the roses in cream lace. Cream lace is a great softener and beautifier. A brunette will enhance her style by wearing yellow roses with some black lace mixed in with them. The coqucttish little bonnet should be made of lace and roses to match. Another neck arrangement that is much liked fs a frill of triple box-plaited silk mull, with long bow ends of mull edged with lace. A very pretty bea can be made of the thin cream and black wash silks by taking a yard and cutting it in strips about six inches in width across the goods. Pink the edges and make it into triple box plaits, or rather keep on piling the plaits on top of each other till ft fits the neck; you can't get it too full; then spend as much money as you like in long wide rib- bon ties. ——— A Child's Silk Frock. Such a cheap, yet lasting and pretty frock can be made for a little tot out of black silk. No matter how often she tum- bles in the dust or gets caught in a sprin- kle, the little black silk frock is as pretty as new when it is dry and brushed. The skirt should be moderately full and vnlined, and be fastened to a plain close- fitting body. Over this puff the outer waist of black silk, and put over it a yoke of yellow lace running into long points, and a girdle of the same. If any ribbon ts used, try the effect of rich orange yellow; it is a lovely color for a child. A picture #at of white leghorn trimmed with black velvet and yellow and black plumes may be worn. —_——— A Humane Colonel. From the Atlanta Constitution. The following good story is told in con- nection with the forty-eighth Georgia regi- ment: ‘As the regiment was on the march to Gettysburg some of the soldiers stepped out of the ranks and confiscated a couple of- geese, and one of the drummers un- headed his drum and put the captured birds in it. Shortly afterward the colonel came along and, noticing the drummer failed to give his usual drum whacks, rode up and said: “Why don’t you beat that drum “Colonel,” said the startled man, “I want k to you.” toche colonel drew close to him and said: “Well, what have you to say?” The drummer whipered: “Colonel, I've got a couple of geese in here.” The colonel straightened up and said: “Well, if you are sick, you needn’t play,” and then rode on. That night the colonel had roast goose foo supper. ~