Evening Star Newspaper, February 23, 1895, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 1895-TWENTY PAGES. THE COMING SEASON Tn the Domain of Fashion and What is in Store. CHEVIOTS WILL BE ALL THE 60 Lace Will Continue to Be Exten- sively Used. > WEARING THE HAIR Sion Sa Writter Exclusively for The Evening Star. | HE KEYNOTE OF = 1 the coming — GZ q I will be “airiness. Z i Everything goes to f oe | prove it. The lawns y @=||\ and _ the linens,’ the mulls and even the soft cheviots| and cashmeres are manu- factured on the light- est lines possible in conformity with the textures of the goods. Formerly to say that a wool gown was light in quality was to say that it was not worth making up. But women have learned by bitter experience the fool- ishness of trying to carry a burden of dress goods about, and manufacturers are doing their best to cater to this desired re- form. Some of the cheviots that are shown are marvelously pretty. One usually buys a cheviot .for utility, but now you can buy with an eye to both beauty and utility. Some of the colorings are almost “high art” work. For business wear, cheviot will stand right square in front of everything else for early spring. The tendency is to use a good deal of stitching on it, and if you are determined to add to its weight you ean braid it to the limit. Braiding will be quite chic all spring and summer. Yeu can have a set design and wear out your eyes and patience over the fine braid- ing of dark on bright cloth, or white on dark in elaborate designs, and then string fancy beads all over it, making yourself look like an Indian squaw out for conquest, if you like, and there will always be some- body to say “how perfectly elegant!” Then you can take the heavier tube silk braid and do yourself up in Austrian loops end knots, with little danglers in black at va- rious points. Still another fancy, and by With Drooping Effect. far the most sensible, will be horizontal or longitudinal arrangement of flat braid- ing. Just bands of braid sewed flatly on the gown lengthwise if you are thick, roundwise {f you are thin. But braid you must have somewhere about your clothes if you would be strictly in the fashion. A bit of advice may fit in right here. If you have to wear your gown quite common, don’t waste your time and substance in putting silk bindings on it, for you will have them to renew four times a month. Stik brafd fs a delusion and a snare. Next to soft wools, taffeta silk may be counted. Taffeta silk is about the best in- vestment that can be made in the way of silk dress goods. It wears better than any other silk that is made, and its colors are generally good. This season the colors are what Is called “warp woven,” and they are soft as ivory painting in coloring. The chene effect so much admired in taffetas is much more artistic In the warp printing. Floral designs will appear In most of the new taffetas, and some that were tak: from the !mporters’ samples last week were simply dreams of beauty. Rather Startling at First. That means, mark you, that they were pretty to look at, but they also have the appearance of trying to keep up with the latest flection fad of “green carnations” end “black dahlias.” When you take the “altogether” ensemble they don’t look a bit absurd, because the colors are so very pretty, but it ts enough to make the blood of a botanist run cold to contemplate blue roses hebnobbing with pink Iilies of the ¥ and yellow ferns. “Of course, lace will be the trimming. Lace was never more artistically woven and never cheaper. It hardly pays to fret one’s soul over the care of reai lace since the imitation ts made so perfect. Cream and black lace in the coarser eifects will be the favorites. Here are two lace examples, one in black over @ bright lining is very pretty, and the drooping effect in front and ‘much puffed sleeves are fashions much affected by Mrs. Cleveland; three of the gowns she has n this season were veiled with ooping In folds from the front of It is a Parisian fancy, and is beginning to be adopted here. Jetted be adjusted over a partly worn ctory results. The belt ssories should be of the color gs. The white lace bodice shows the extreme to which women sometimes go wning themselv ‘All or nothing” seem to be their motto when sleeves be considered. The lace, which Is over a smooth silk ‘bodice, 1s ugh folis under a buckle in front and stops just short of meeting over the shoul- ders, to be tied with wide ribbon going und the arm, which forms the only ex- or a sleeve. If you look like a t I you are safe to try such a style, but ff nature has not gifted you with a fair nount of flesh don't try it. It ts whis 1 that the low silk bodice will be worn a thin high-necked overwaist! If the tion comes true It will be a positive to the thin women, for it will be a h skin that will not appear well under or lace veiling. Not many nen understand the art of covering up their bad points that way. Potnis on F he. Lace bands for skirts of gowns will be Worn more than ever this year. An cdd fancy is a wide band of insertion, in butter cclcred Bruges lace, set at the foot of the skirt with a narrow band of fur on each edge. Three such bands on a black broad- cloth skirt makes a strikingly stylish look- ing gown. Of course, the lace and fur ef- fect must be carried out on the bodice. The Vandyke points will appear on every: thing, dark or light, and a particularly pretty frock for a bridal outfit is of blue white-dotted mull with a foot trimming of butter-colored Vandyke lace, the points turned up. Above the points are two rows of the butter-colored insertion set in be- tween bands of the mull; the waist is one of the overhanging kind, and is made en- tirely of bands of insertion and mull. The sleeves are the bishop pattern and are formed of bands of lace and mull in longi- tudinal rows. This frock has several slips ef various colers and ribbons to match. Everything peints to a “white” goods sum- mer. That means that everybody will wear everything white from toe to top- knot. It is a dainty fashion, but oh, the work it entails on suffering women. The making of muslins is no fun, and when you think of the laundering, snd the agony of AM or Nothing. spirit of having to wear poorly laundered white things, you will no longer wonder why wrinkles come. If you can’t have lace and embroidery, too, have embroidery, for it will be quite a fad. And the prettiest embroiderics you ever saw. They are nearly as fine as I: Whole frocks of the “all over” embroidery will be worn, and some of the patterns of- fered are simply exquisite. The cost? Well, that is another story which the man who foots the bills will tell. There is a new “rocaille” embroidery that looks like Irish crocheted lace, with a flat, braid-like finish which will be used for summer silks. Col- ored embroideries are to be in great favor. Red and white and blue and white are quite familiar, but until this season noth- ing else in colors has been offered; now we have lavender, and pink, and yellow, and black, as well as red and various shades of blue, all on a white grcund. They are very dainty, and are just the thing to trim the beautiful new lawns. With them will be found insertions that have both edges fin- ished. Such insertions were offered in white last season, and were snapped up with such avidity, despite their costliness, that ft is quite a comfort to know that any- thing so pretty can now be purchased to suit almost any cotton gown and almost every purse. As to Hatr. How are you doing your hair? Very like- ly ycu are making yourself hideous by try- ing to train your refractory locks Madonna fashion, when, in fact, you have not a Ma- donna, feature in your possession. Maybe you are parting your hair and curling it on each side, when you ought to be comb- ing it straight up. It ts altogether prob- able that you are making a guy of your- self If you are blindly following the fash- ton. What a woman ought to do If she knows enough to appreciate her good points is to sit down before her mirror and study her face until she knows every line in {t, good points and bad. Then she should set herself to arrange her hair to bring out the good points and hide the bad ones. Having adopted the coiffure that suits her face, she will wear it the remainder of her life, with a few modifications that will keep it from looking too antique. One can scarcely imagine Queen Victoria with bangs. She wears her hair today, though decidedly thinner, perhaps, exactly as she did when she was placed, a girl, on England's throne. Mrs. Hayes clung to her old fashion because she wore it that way when she was married and her husband liked it best so. Her kindly face would look odd in any other frame. It ts said now that pompadour hair will come back in the summer. It is trying and adds age if not treated carefully, but it will be re- membered that the young wife of the President, who has “that excellent thing in woman, a low forehead,” made the pom- padour style quite the rage a few years ago. She could wear her hair that way. Lots of her followers could not without sacrifice of good looks. Looks were sacri- ficed that style might be observed. Here are three of the very*latest head- dresses. The slightly waved hair with the knot in the center is extremely becoming to a small head, and the two little curls on the neck are quite new. The woman in the porcupine bonnet has her hair done in the Madonna style, and the freak of a jet bon- net ig the kind that invites pneumonia The other picture shows the becoming way of arranging the hair of a girl in her early teens. It Is tie} In the back at the neck with a bow of black velvet in this in- stance, for the hair ts quite blonde. Se Se ANNA GOULD'S J WEELS. Her Friends Making an Amazing Col- lection of Wedding Gifts for Her. From the New York Sun. Though Paris is responsible for the many gowns, wraps, sets on sets of exquisite lingerie, and head gear, provided for Miss Anna Gould's trousseau, to New York jew- elers have been given orders that seem almost carte blanche for wedding gifts from the young woman’s family and her flance. That Count Jean de Castellane has an appreciation of the merits and beau- ty of diamonds ts shown by a splendid corsage decoration just completed under his direction, and it will probably be the most enviable of all the proposed contents of Miss Gould's Jewel box. The value of this ornament, that contains nearly two hundred and fifty large, purely white bril- liants and two very perfect emeralds, is estimated at $14,000. It consists of a cen- piece, nearly as large as a woman's , in an elaborate diamond crusted foli- inclosing one of the emer- this is caught In the center lal a When | of an evening bodice, double chains of dia- onds will run up from it to right and left, hizh on the bust, caught at one end by @ cluster of three diamond feathers and at the other by a small copy of the middle piece, also holding an emerald. In addition to this dazzling breastplate is a pendant, the like of which the Em- | press of Austria, whose emeralds are fa- | mous, could hardly show. Here ts one as rly flawless as those capricious stones e ever found. It is the largest for depth and brilliance that has ever appeared in New York. It fs to be suspended in soli- magnificence In a hoop of picked white diamonds. Taking their cue from the count, the family of this fortunate young woman bid fair to complete for her an amazing collection of the green gems. ITHE INTENSE WOMAN Gue of the Products of the Hurry of Modern Life. THE WEAR AND TEAR ON NERVES The Woman of Today Has Too Many Interests. OLD SCHOOL IDEAS Writte: Exclusively fo- The Evering Star. NTENSITY IS THE keynote of the age. Whether she wel- comes you to a cup of tea and a cracker or to a banquet and bowers of roses, your hostess greets you in the superlatively in- tense degree. She grasps your hand as though you might be her long lost brother. She smiles a beam- ing welcome that seems to be all your own. She holds your hand while she briefly but earnestly says exactly the right thing, showing that you are remembered individually. In itself an exercise of exhausting nature. Then she passes you on, with wholesale introduc- tions, right and left, a word here, a sen- tence there, to tell to others who you are, and before the last syllable has left her lips she is fixing her face in a welcoming smile for the next guest. The nervous force expended in greeting several hundred guests in this manner is enough to appall the stoutest heart. But the age demands intensity, and a society woman would rather die than fail to honor the draft. The intense woman is always more or less self conscious. Her nerves are rasped to a thin edge by her restless zeal and her impressive fervor, and having lost her equipoise she unconsciously increases her burdea of restlessness by infinitesimal wor- ries. She imagines that her coiffure is not quite correct, and hurriedly slips her hand over it. She touches a hairpin and shoves it in. She readjusts her jeweled comb, pushes a refractory lock back or pulls one forward. A dozen times during an even- ing she will do that. Her gloves are al- ways needing attention. They are smooth- ed on and pulled at the fingers, buttoned and unbuttoned, and adjusted at the wrist, till the poor, strained kid fairly shrieks at its mistreatment. Her hat Is always a source of annoyance, and with a veil 1s safe for adjustment every five minutes. Her card case comes in for a large amount of caressing, and a lorgnette is a perfect boon. Her poor handkerchief is soon re- duced to a shapeless rag, used as it is for a face mop, or wadded into a ball in her hand. The arms akimbo fad has added still another worry. It raises the shoul- ders and that pulls the short-watsted thing free of the skirt. Tons of strength are wasted every day in adjusting the refrac- tory bodice. ! On a High Pressure. The intense woman talks like a house afire. The words tumble over each other in their scramble to be uttered. She has read every thing, or the review of it, from Genesis te the Congressional Record, and feels perfectly competent to discuss all that may have come between. And she does discuss {t. She will talk against a brass band or the clatter of a cable car. She boosts her voice up to the high C pitch, and shrills along at a fearful pace, shedding tons of strength all along the line. She talks with her eyes and mouth and shoulders and hands. She sways and bends, she laughs and poses. It all takes energy. Lots of it. It takes nervous force. It exhausts vitality. And none of ft is necessary. It is the spirit of unrest, like a microbe, infecting the air. It {s con- gressional unquiet invading the drawing room to the undoing of our daughters. While it is true that social and political conditions are nearly allied, the unrest of the political arena has not invaded the home to a very great extent until recently, and it is much to be regretted that the dis- turbing elements have been admitted, and that the poison of unrest has entered the blood. The intense woman !s always in a hurry. She finds it- necessary, in her effort to keep up with the procession, to belong to clubs. These clubs embrace in their ob- jects all the ethics of life, moral and po- litical. They dabble in science and social- ism, study the stars, and analyze the earth. They evolve solutions of the tariff prob- lems, based on the importation of ball gowns and Parisian bonnets, and dally with the silver question over the tea cups. ‘There are clubs for the amelioration of the woes of working women, and clubs for the promulgation of all the new fads. Cooking clubs and sewing clubs—in fact, the clubs that women may belong to far outnumber those for men. The intense woman usually has on her string at least one club for each day in the week. She is secretary of one, president of another, treasurer of a third, vice president of the fourth, and prime mover of the oth- ers. She has her church duties, her liter- ary ambitions, her artistic aspirations, her social obligations, and she is devoted to her home, and desires to be considered a worthy exponent of all the multitudinous duties that pertain to the homemaker. The woman who could endure such a strain and live to happy cld age has not yet been born, and the woman who elects to go the pace is simply committing suicide by inches and benefiting nobody. Lack of Repose. From the time she lifts her throbbing head off her pillow in the gray morning till she drops it in sheer weariness again at midnight she is on the go. Her home duties distract her sufficiently, but she must go from them to the disturbed con- ditions of the club rooms, to smooth and amalgamate factions, adjust differences and combine discordant elements. She must spossess the qualities of a Richelieu, a Napoleon, a Chestertield, a Webster and a ward politician. She must be able to rule ke a czar and execute like a field mar- shal. With it all she must retain her wo- manliness, her sweetness of character, her charm of manner and her faith in her kind. If a task like that isn’t enough to wear a woman to rags I don’t know what is. It does wear her out, too. Body and soul are worn to a wire edge by the fric- tion, and the teased nerves revolt at last, leaving their owner a physical wreck, whos: epitaph ought to be: “Gone to pieces on the rock of unres' Dick inyeighs quite bitterly sometimes against the lack of repose displayed by Dorothy and the other girls of his ac- quaintance. “Copy grandmother's style,” he said to Dorothy one day. “She was the best exemplar of repose and restfulness of manner that I ever saw.” Dick might have added, too, that grand- mother was never in a hurry. “I have all the time in the world at my disposal,” she used to say, in her soft, low voice. “Even the queen, on whose possessions the sun never sets, can claim a second more time in the twenty-four hours than FT. It does not pay to hurry. All the riches and fame of the world are not worth a single heart- beat, if life is unnecessarily shortened thereby.” And the uninterrupted calm of her long and busy life sufficiently demon- strated the truth of her theory. “A woman in a hurry has not time to be graceful,” grandmother said once. “And a woman's first duty in life is to make her- self pleasing to her friends. If she per- mits herself to be pushed for time she leaves a bad impression on the minds of all concerned. A woman in a hurry has over- crowded her time with duties, or she has permitted persons to absorb more of it than rightfully belonged to them. ‘The @riends who may have thug en- trenched feel guilty that they have r®bbed her of her repose of manner, and her nerves are stretched to a tighter tension than is absolutely healthful, in the mighty endeavor to accomplish neglected tasks. One infringement brings on another, and soon she fimds that she is always behind, and her peace of mind is gone to keep her werrles company. A flustered woman is not an agr2eable companion. She lacks the air of repose that marks the caste of Vere de Vere. Women of the Old School. Just you make a study of the old school of women, if you ever find one, for they are few and far between now, and you will know what the “caste of Vere de Vere” means. The Vere de Vere woman never lolls aboufin her chair, and neither Mr. nor Mrs. DéfsaPte would be a welcome guest in her house, for she does not like heresies of that. Bind. Her little home duties keep her muscles in guod order, and having been trained to grow prim and straight like a_lily stalk, grace comes raturally to her ys. She believes a chair was made to sit/ i, and the floor to put her feet upon. She never runs any chance of paralyzing the nerves of her knees cross- ing her legs, because she does not imagine for a moment thatja lady can do such a thing. She does not,fumble abstractedly with her fan, adjust”het bracelets, or remodel her headdress. She was careful to arrange every portion of ker toilet before she ieft the privacy of her chamber, and she knows that she is in perfect trim; hence dismisses herself from her own mind, leaving it free to think of agreeable things to say to others. Her voice is like low music, and her laugh like the ripple of water. Her ideas will be a little antiquated, and she will know neither Trilby nor Dodo, but she can tell you the story of Mary and Martha in a way that will make you feel as though it was yesterday that they lived, and she knows more of natural sci- ence, practical economics and the true ethics of living than you with your nerv- ous organization would learn at your clubs and symposiums if you lived to be as old as Methuselah. You will think the Vere de Vere woman is cold; but she has just as much blood in her heart as you have, only it is under bet- ter control. She refuses to set it rushing through her veins by a mad endeavor to keep up with a lot of unnecessary, self- imposed duties, exhausting her vital forces and impairing her health, but chooses, rather, to reserve her strength for the benefit of those who will appreciate her ef- forts. Unrest and the Vere de Vere woman have not even a speaking acquaintance. They never can have, for one must in the nature of things kill the other. Does It Pay? I think if women only understood what a foe to good looks, perfect health and con- tentment they harbor when they entertain the demon of unrest they would have a care how they invite so unwelcome a guest to visit them. I say “‘invite’’ because I know that women cultivate the “intense” manner that brings in its train such a string of ills. They seem to think that to be intense is to be impressive, hence more attractive. In reality it renders them shal- low and insincere. They thirst for distinc- tion, reputation for philanthropy, fame as racontours and entertainers, celebrity as social lights, and imagine that intensity breeds interest, and {interest importance. Like poor, silly moths that singe théir wings in the candle, they do not learn how futile their ambitions are till broken in mind and body they lie at the mercy of Tiberius, the hole they left in the world fill- ing up just as quick as that made by thrusting your finger in a bowl of water and withdrawing it again. In the season of rest that is approaching you will have time to reflect on the mad round you have traveled daily during the past season, Has it been worth the energy expended? Have you profited by the outlay of strength and life forces in insignificant pursuits? SENORA SARA, ——_ -+0+. PHILOSOPHY OF LOVE. The Analysis of the Passion Attempt- ed by Eminent Thinkers. From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat. We are informed by Herbert Spencer that love is “an emotion of the highest com- plexity, and corisequently of the greatest strength.” One of its principal elements, he goes on to jpecify, is the impression produced by the beautiful, which includes the idea of personal‘ preference, and such preference leads to'the feeling called af- fection, culminating in a special exaltation when existing between lovers. Then thero is the sentiment. of admiration or rever- ence, and then the vanity that fs flattered by the knowledge that we are preferred to alt the world:by the one whom we ad- mire over all others. Beyond this Is the proprietary feeling, or the delight of mutual possession, and finally there is the choice felicity of the close participation of another in all of our enjoyments. In thus scientifically taking ‘the passion to pieces Mr. Spencer at léast proves it to bé’ amazingly complex, but he does:nét tell us anything about the caprices in which it is so largely expressed, and does not give us the logic of the process by which its In- dividual preferences are determined. We are still left in the dark as to why it is that people whom we like are so apt to marry people whom we dislike, and how it so frequently happens that all the rules by which the other interests of life are adjusted seem to be disregarded in a matter which has the most !mportant bearing up- on the happiness of mankind and the wel- fare of society. When we turn to a philosopher like Emerson, we are equally disappointed; or, to state it in another way, there is the same lack of practical information upon these points which are a source of endless perplexity. He describes love in the ab- stract as “a fire that, kindling its first embers in the narrow nook of a private bosom, caught from a wandering spark out of another private bosom, glows and enlarges until it warms and beams upon multitudes of men and women, upon the universal heart of all, and so lights up the whole world and all nature with its gen- erous flames.” This is quite pretty, but it is simply. the poetry of the case and not the explanation. He anticipates such an objection, and hastens to meet it by saying that the first condition of the discussion is “that we must leave a too close and linger- ing adherence to facts, and study the sen- timent as it has appeared in hope and not in history.” Our own experience, he says, is likely to have a souring effect, whereas, when we contemplate the thing at a dis- tance, in the experience of others, from the point of the intellect, it looks fair ani ideal. Hence comes tie prevailing desire to know of any worthy person how he has sped in this relation, and herein Hes the secret of the attention that is given to a betrayal of affection between two par- tles. “Perhaps we never saw them before, and never shall meet them again, But we see them exchange a glance, or show a deep emotion, and we are no longer strangers.” We understand the situation at once, and the romance of it appeals to us in a tender and pleasant way. But we cannot discern the reasons which induced these particular parties to choose each other, and do not know how their affinity was revealed to them in the general con- fusion of human affairs, ——+e+____ THOSE ARTIFICIAL VIOLETS. Women Make a Fashion That Cuts a Florist’s Profits. From the New York Sun. Of cautious thrift and cool business judg- ment the New York women have never before made so admirable a display as in the winter’s contest with and triumph over one of the monopolies that threatened to crush their independence. In this in- stance the florists with violets for sale are the humbled foes. For several seasons they have been steadily raising the price of these flowers that New York women particularly have come to consider almost as necessary a part of dress as hats and handkerchiefs. Hitherto they cheerfully paid well for the little blossoms until, dur- ing the winter, their value was raised by the avaricious florist to a point that aroused remonstrance. Finding argument of no avail, the women silently stretched forth the long arm of fashion to mete out vengeance to the obstinate dealers by pro- claiming muslin, velvet or silk violets permissible substitutes for the natural flowers. Not only did the artificial ones become permissible, but they have grown to be ubiquitous adjuncts of feminine cos- tume. They haye even received Parisian sanction, and the florist now tears his hair with one hand while with the other he figures up the loss this drop in the nat- ural violet market has brought. Through his window he can see that never before have violets bean so popular. Not only do women pin them on their muffs and wear them in their hats, but the dressmakers and tailors now send home gowns, coats, capes and dress waists with big bunches of purple velvet blossoms sewed at throat and breast. —____—_-+ee_ Coutdn’t Help Himself. From the Chicago Tribune. “On principle,” said the honorable mem- ber from the ’steenth district, placing something in his pocketbook and putting the latter back in his inside vest pocket, “I am opposed to a member of the legisla- ture accepting a railroad pass, but when the railroad just forces it on you, you know, why, that’s different.” STARS OF MARCH Some of the Heavenly Bodies and Their Positions. A VIEW OF THE NEBULA OF ORION A Total Eclipse of the Moon During the Month. ABOUT THE PLANETS ——— Written for The Evening Star. RION WILL CON- tinue throughout the month to form the splendid decoration of the southern even- ing skies. At 9 o'clock {the constellation is now in midheavens Jin the southwest, KISS’ Procyon, the eastern- most of the brilliant stars which surround it, being at that hour on the merid- ian—that is, exactly south. Procyon is the principal star in the Canis Minor, or Smaller Dog, a constellation which, there is little risk in saying, is a myth pure and simple. There are no stars here which can be imagined to present the likeness of a dog, nor, indeed, of any ani- mal. The constellation has no other basis, apparently, than the name Proeyon, which signifies Before-the-Dog, and which seems to have been given to this bright star, be- cause it rose a short time before the Dog Star, Sirius, in which the ancients were for various reasons deeply interested, and thus gave warning of its approach. The Dog Star itself, as has been said in a preceding article, probably was so called, not because of anything suggestive of a dog in the ar- rangement of the stars around it, but be- cause of its supposed watchful care over the interests of the Egyptian husbandman. While we are on the subject of factitious constellations we will examine a third as- terism, which, probably, has as slight a foundation among the stars as have the two Dogs. Directly above Procyon and near the zenith may now be seen the con- spicuous pair of stars which mark the heads of the Twins, Gemini. This constel- lation is well supplied with stars, contain- ing, besides the two brighter ones, four of the third and seven of the fourth raagni- tude; but only the most perverted imagina- tion ‘can trace among them the figures of the Twins, as they are drawn upon the chart. We may very reasonably conjecture that by the “Doubles,” or “Twins,” origin- ally nothing more was meant than the two bright stars, so noticeable from their iso- lated position. Lying near the sun’s path, they served as one of the markers by which the ancients kept tally of the chang- ing seasons. A name for them was neces- sary, and no name could be more appro- priate than this. But there was in the Greek mythology another pair of twins, Castor and Pollux, the brothers of that Helen whose fatal beauty led to the siege of Troy. Originally these twins had no connection whatever with the stars. They were, as is generally agreed among my- thologers,simple personifications of Day and Night, Pollux being the Bright one and Castor the Dark one. Hence the legend that they shared between them the gift of immortality, the one being above ground, living, while the other was dead in the lower world. In an age of fable it was in- evitable that the two sets of Twins, the stellar and the mythological, should become Sun and Planets, confounded with each other. These twin stars seem very early to have become iden- tified with Castor and Pollux. They still bear these names, and the modern chart- maker has delineated the youths among the stars as best he could. The feet of the Twins, as their figures are drawn upon a chart, are midway between the two bright stars and the head of Orion. This will be our last good opportunity for studying Orion, and we must not pass un- noticed that feature of the constellation which gives it its chief attraction for the astronomer—its great nebula. The nebula surrounds the star Theta, in the Sword— the third magnitude star which stands a short distance below the belt, and which forms with the three stars of the belt and ene in the handle of the Sword a striking lezenge-shaped figure. With a good opera glass, on a clear even- ing, the nebula may be detected as a fleck of faintly luminous mist. Seen through a telescope, it has the appearance of a phos- phorescent cloud—as its name “nebula” im- plies—presenting on one side, where it is the brightest, a fairly distinct outline, but on all other sides fading away gradually into imperceptibility. The brighter part has a curious resemblance to the head of some monster animal, a dark recess form- ing an open mouth, while above this a etreamer of nebulous matter so much resem- bles the uplifted trunk of an elephant that it is often called the “Proboscis.” At the bottom of the dark gulf or mouth-like open- ing is the star Theta, which a telescope cf even moderate power resolves into a mul- tiple star of four components—to which a larger instrument adds two others—forming the “Trapezium,’’the principal point ef ret- erence to the nebula. Although this mysterious, mist-like object had long been studied by the telescope— had been explored thoroughly by the power- ful instruments of the elder Herschel and of Lord Rosse—its true nature remained a debated point until the spectroscope was brought to bear upon it by Father Secchi and Dr, Huggins independently some twen- ty-five years ago. Both of these observers found its spectrum to consist of bright lines, instead of being “continuou: ike the spectrum of the sun and of all glowing solids and fluids, and the long debated question of its “resolvability” was defin- itely settled. Only glowing gases give bright-line spectra. There is no longer a doubt that this is a true nebula, as was always maintained by Herschel, and not simply an aggrega- tion of stars so small or so distant as to be seen only by their blended light, as has proved to be the case with many of the sup- posed nebulae. If the story of its light, as that story is now read by astronomers, can be trusted, this vast luminous cloud, the extent of which baffles the power of imagi- ration to conceive, is a mass of glowing gases, of which hydrogen and (less cer- tainly) nitrogen are the principal. This point may be considered to be set- tied. But another question respecting the | nebulae has arisen and is still in debate, ‘The view of Herschel and Laplace required us to conceive of a nebula as a mass of gases at an intensely high temperature. ‘They regarded it as containing in this form the material of future worlds. The cooling and condensation of this gaseous matter would result finally in the forma- tion of suns and planets. The new “me- teorie theory” of Mr. Lockyer—a theory which is based upon the results of experi- ments made with the spectroscope upon meteoric stones and metals, and which has found favor with many eminent astrono- mers—gives to the nebula a quite different character. As a mass it is at a low tem- perature. It is simply a vast shoal of non- luminous meteors—a cloud of cosmic dust, the coarse particles of which are in motion among themselves and are continually col- lding with one another, producing by their impacts heat and light. In the present sparse condition of these meteors their movements are slow and the collisions are not violent, so that only their more volatile substances are rendered gaseous and lumi- nous. The “material” is there, however, “CUE” FOR THE PUBLIC. . Helen Barry, the Actress, Finds a Splendid Tonic in Paine’s Celery Compound, The play 1s done, the curtain drops, Slow falling to the prompter's bell; A moment yet the actress stops and looks around to say farewell. It is an irksome word and task, And when she’s laughed and said her say, She shows as she removes her mask a face that’s anything but gay. Acting is not all gayety, ights and applause. ‘here 1s a deal of drudgery, vexation and heart- ache that the people in the front of the house little imagine. Mary Anderson used to advise young stage-struck girls to*keep off the stage. ‘The feverish excite- ment, the late hours, the drudgery of rehearsals, the unnatural stimulus from new audiences, rivalry and applause, make the life full of perils to health of mind and body. The careless theater-going pub- He have no notion of the strain on the nerves that is inseparable from a dramatic career. But members of “the profession’? know what it ts, and they have, as a body, learned how best to keep their nervous systems strong and capable of doiug the hard work demanded of them. That is why Paine’s celery compound is so popular on the stage. Helen Barry, the well-known actress, writes to physician friend from Tea Box Cottage, Bellfort: “It 1s with great pleasure I write to tell you that I find Paine's celery compound a splendid tonic. I should like you to procure me a few more bottles." Deila Fox, when “run down’? from overwork, by the advice of the wife of a U. S. Senator in Wash- ington, tried Paine’s celery compound. She says: ~ ‘My spirits picked up, and at the end of two weeks the same cld exuberant health with which nature blessed me had returned. “I ate and slept as I had not done since I was child, and I have never ‘known since then an hour's inconvenience from nervous prostration. “The medicine to which I owe so much is Paine’s celery compound, and I have recommended it to all of my stage acquaintances who have overtaxed their brains by too close attention to study, and all have experienced the same happy results as myself.”” Marie Tempest also, and a host more of the most eminent artists who appear before the public, have recently testified to the wonderful reinvigorating power of Paine’s celery compound. Their testimony is noteworthy because no class “of women work harder or are under greater nervous strain. Women in every walk of life have reason to be grateful to Prof. Phelps of Dartmouth, who dis- covered Paine’s celery compound. He understood the peculiar weakness of the sex. He knew that the backache, lassitude, headache, sleeplessness and loss of appetite all mean that the supply of ner- ‘vous force is low and inadequate to the demands upon it. The experience of thousands has taught the women of the country that only Paine’s celery compound will give health to the nerves, and, through them, to the entire body. although invisible; and as the mass con- tracts its dimensions, under the force of gravity, and the collisions become more fre- quent and more violent, the temperature of | the nebula will rise until it becomes wholly gaseous. In that condition it will no longer be classed as a nebula. It will have entered fairly upon its career as a sun, and the pro- cess of cooling will then begin. Not less interesting than the information furnished by the spectroscope is the light thrown upon the nebulae by photography. Not only have the already known nebulae been brought by this means more distinctly into view and structural details shown which the keenest eye had been unable to detect, but very many new-nebulae have beeen discovered. To confine our attention to the Orion region, an enormous spiral nebula has been discovered here, com- pared with which the “great nebula” is a mere pigmy. It was first described by Prof. W. H. Pickering, from a photograph taken by him at Wilson’s Peak, in 1889, and it has recently (in October, 1894,) been again brought out on a photograph taken by Prof. Barnard, at Mt. Hamilton. As it has been depicted by Prof. Barnard, it has the shape roughly of the figure 6. Beginning near the star Bellatrix—in the left shoulder of Orion—it runs in a southeasterly direc- tion, nearly parallel with the line of the belt; then it curves downward, and, pass- ing just above Saiph, in the right knee, sweeps over to the west, and, passing mid- way between Regal and Theta, turns up- ward and inward and ends just below the “Three Kings,” which it partially envelops. Its general appearance leaves the impres- sion that the old Theta nebula is really connected with it and is, in fact, the vor- tex of this spiral. In our entire ignorance of its distance from us it is impossible to Judge of its actual dimensions, but it is ap- parently the grandest single object which has yet been discovered in the heavens. The Lunar Eclipse. On the 10th of next month there will be a toal eclipse of the moon, visible through- out the United States. The several phases of the eclipse will occur as follows, east- ern standard time: Moon enters penumbra. 104d 7h 57m A Moon enters shadow. Sh 53m A Total eclipse begins. 9h Sim A Total eclipse erds. 11h 27m A Moon leaves shadow. 11d 0h 25m M Moon leaves penumbra os -1h 2im M The diagram annexed designed to aid the reader’s imagination In grasping some of the features of the eclipse, particularly to show the distinction between the “um- bra,” or shadow proper, and the “penuin- bra,” or partial shadow. ‘The shaded portion of the figure, included in the lines e a ci, represents the earti’s shadow. Its boundary lines must be con- ceived to start from a point outside of the Diagram of Eclipse. diagram, on the right, and to be prolonged in the direction S until they touch respec- tively the upper and the lower edges of a large circle, which should represent the sun. The line b a, prolonged in the same di- rection, should touch its lower edge; de its upper edge. These lines form the outer limit of the penumbra (marked p). The moon is represented as within this region. It is evident that for an observer on the moon, in this situation, the sun’s light would be partially cut off by the partlal intervention of the earth, and that the nearer the moon is to the line 1 c the great- er will be the portion of the sun’s light thus excluded from it. The diminution of the moon’s illumination, after entering the penumbra, Is, however, 0 gradual that this phase of an eclipse is not observable. The true beginning of an eclipse is the mo- ment when the moon strikes the shadow r. prpat even after having become wholly involved in the earth’s shadow the moon remains visible, usually presenting the ap- pearance of a huge copper-colored globe and occasionally being variegated with greenish and other hues, which give it a ingularly beautiful appearance. The rea- son of this is that the earth’s shadow at the distance of the moon 1s not entirely dark, but is illumined by rays of sunlight, which, passing through the earth’s atmos- phere, have been refracted, or bent inward, besides being colored by the absorptive ac- ticn of the vapors and other impurities in the atmosphere. The portion of the shadow which is too near the earth to be thus illu- minated is represented on the diagram by the black portion, which comes to a point at O, at a considerable distance this side of the moon. An imaginary observer with- in the shadow, outside of this portion of it, would see the earth’s disk bordered by a narrow ring of variegated light, deep red being the predominant color. It is this light which prevents the moon from being totally blotted out of the sky during an eclipse. Why Not Every Month? It may not be amiss to explain here why se it is that the moon is not eclipsed every month, at the time of the full, when the earth lies, loosely speaking, between it and the sun, and when, of course, the shadow of the earth extends in its direction. If the moon's orbit lay in the same plane as the earth’s orbit, an eclipse of the moon must inevitably occur once every month, since the moon would, in that case, pass once @ month directly through the center of the shadow. But, in fact, the moon's orbit is inclined at an angle of five degrees to that of the earth, so that it is possible for the moon to pass five degrees above or the same distaace below the shadow of the earth, the distance being reckoned from center to center, and thus pass quite clear of the shadow, since the moon's semi-diam- eter is but one-fourth of a degree, and that of the earth's shadow at the distance of the moon about two and a half times as great. It is only when the moon, at the full, ts so near one of the points at which its orbit crosses that of the earth (technically known as its nodes) that the angular dis- tance of its center from the earth’s orbit is less than about one degree that an en- counter with the earth’s shadow, and con- sequently an eclipse, is possible.’ This will be partial if the moon merely dips into the edge of the shadow, or it will be total if the moon becomes wholly involved within it. On the present occasion the moon will be very near its “descending node,” and it will pass very nearly through the center of the shadow,and the duration of the eclipse, one hour and thirty-five minutes, will fall but ten minutes short of the longest dura- tion possible. Mars, Neptune and Jupiter are still above the horizon at 9 p.m.,in the positions shown. in the annexed diagram of the zodiac. Venus is now so far to the east of the sun that she is visible for a short time early in the evening. Mercury will be a morning star through- out the month,reaching its greatest elonga- on se es the 24th. Saturn and Uranus, althoug! low the horizon at 9 p.m., both rise before midnight. On the 20th, at 4 p.m., Washington mean time, the sun will enter Aries and the trop- ical spring will begin. ———--+ee____ A Touching Scene. From the Tammany Times. It was at a performance at Palmer's Theater of that great play, “The Fatal Card.” The scene was on in which the girl in the frontier dive plays “Home, Sweet Home” on the plano and breaks down. Judge Pennybunker and Pete Amsterdam were in the orchestra, and while Pete was not affected ni the least, the judge was ob- served to be using his pocket handkerchict very vigorously. “Don’t go on that way, judge. It’s all acting, you know. That girl gets broke up that way every night. Don’t cry “Who the blazes is crying?” replied the judge, wiping up some fresh moisture on his shirt bosom. “I'm net crying. It's a blankety blank woman up in the balcon I respect her emotion, but if she doesn’t stop shedding her blamed tears on my bald head I'll have the usher put her out.” — Struck by His Own Beauty. From Life.