Evening Star Newspaper, January 19, 1895, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR. SATURDAY, JANUARY 19, 1895-TWENTY PAGES. 17 FURIS THE STYLE Some of the Modish Costumes That Are Now Seen. > SEALSKIN NO LONGER THE LEADER A Rumor to the Effect That Pock- ets Are Coming. degen SOME HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS Atgpcta— UR IS THE CRAZE F: the season. A your ago it was whispered that another year would see the popu- larity of fur waning. On the contrary, it has increased, if that were possible. Last year it was used on ball gowns, if the material was heavy silk or satin. This year it is necessary on ball gowns, and chiffon {fs its most intimate neighbor. There seems to be something incongruous in as- sociating together the very antipodes in thick and thin fabrics, but fashion has willed it so, and her mandates are bound to be obeyed. Some exquisite examples of fur garniture were worn at the New Year reception at the White House by the ladies behind the line. It bordered bodices and edged some of the short trains; it was combined with jet, and with jeweled pas- sementeries, with velvet, lace, chiffon and with silk. Ermine, mink and sable were the favorites, and they certainly did make sumptuous-looking gowvs. One that was remarkable for its unique adjustment of fur was of black velvet, and might be called “heads and tails." The full, flaring skirt, which cleared the ground all around, with a cute little tilt in the back, such as mighty few of the gowns get properly, had three rows formea of mink bodies, long drawn out, for the heads appeared at the front of the side seam on the front of the right side, and extended around the skirt, Ermine and Velvet. the tall ending at the side seam on the left of the front. Over the enormous vel- vet sleeves, which defied the latest edict of fashion and stood above the shoulders, was @ velvet cape, meeting at the throat, but flaring off at the points to the sleeves, and caught with mink body, with the heads resting on the shoulders and the tails dangling down the side of the waist. The flaring velvet hat had four minks’ heads on it, catching up the brim and peering out from among a regular forest of black plumes. The wearer had the pleasure—if ft can be called that—of being the most stared at of any woman there, and one of the men was heard to remark as she passed that he feared that he had taken too much, and was going home. They cer- tainly did make one feel creepy. A dainty young debutante wore black Velvet—biack velvet is too old for a young Velvet and Sables. girl—and a skirtless jacket of ermine, with big velvet sleeves, over which fell a double shoulder ripple of the ermine. She carried @ puckerd velvet excuse for a muff, that was bordered on the ruffles with ermine, and had a tiny head, with its black eyes gleaming out from a bunch of violets. Sable and mink are the richest furs for age. ither because sealskin is too costly, or because it wears dingy so soon, ft fs not as much worn this winter as the other furs. Very few sealskin garments are dis- played in the shop windows, and fewer 2 worn. Electric seal seems to have taken its plac: ven with women fford the higher-priced fur. nored that pockets are coming! who can It is other's Fars. the thraldom of card case, hand- triffes in lay that t an V lar fifteen be he ha ing. a than orte ment of riches.. Just at present this pocket ig to be very much in evidence on the out- side of the gown shirt and well to the front. In fact, twin pockets! They will have lapeis, and, ot course, ribbon bows. ‘The iapels can be of passementerie, but the pocket wiil be cut in the dress. ‘The overhanging bodice, that is, the bod- ice that ts belted tightly at the waist line, with the front drooping over the belt, is the very latest in waist fashions, and was numerously worn at the New Year recep- tion. ‘They are becoming to both thick and thin figures, helping to conceal both. The style gives’ an excellent opportunity to utilize old bodtces, for the gay colored silks may be rehabilitated with an over- dress of lace or chiffon, left to droop over the belt of passementerie, and with wid- ened sleeves, built up out of chiffon ruffles or puffs, look quite presentable again. if you have nothing that is chiffon trimmed you ought to supply the deficiency right away. It is the trimming, par excellence, and a french modiste said the other day that if you were not sure just what you wanted a gown made of, just mention-that you wanted fur, chiffon and velvet, and you would have a dream gown, unless your dressmaker was an utter imbecile. For a black velvet gown simplicity should be the motif. ‘fhe velvet should be so hancsome that fripperies in the way of A Dinner Gown. trimming could be avoided. A superb ex- ample has a full flaring skirt, and a pe fectiy plain round waist, with high colls and wide revers of sable. With this gown a big sable muff is carried, and a picture hat is worn, made of black velvet and trim- med with plumes. You can make it cost you much or little, but if you are dreaming of sable you can be pretty sure that the gown will be a costly one. Here is a dinner gown in butter yellow satin, yellow chiffon and black velvet. The waist 1s draped with the chiffon, and the sleeves, which follow the new style and Grop off the shoulders, are of rufiles of the chitton, with tiny points of jetted passementerie at the top. The upper part of the waist is of black velvet, with an atrociously high collar of velvet. The waist is belted with velvet, and the skirt, which Is six yards around, ts perfectly plain. If you can get hold of your grand- mother’s old.furs you will be on the top wave of style. The wide, old-fashioned furs. with long stole ends coming to the bottom of tne dress, are now quite the thing. ‘They must flute up a little around the shoulders, and have a turn-over collar, and you must carry a muff big enough for the paws of a gorilla, and then you will be quite in the swim. ee MONEY IN THE HOUSEHOLD. The Trying Position of the Woman Who Has No Allowance. From the Phildelphia Times Many good men who are prompt in bust- ness and liberal in publle benefactions subject their families to this rasping ordeal out of a perverse belief that woman's sphere is a little matter, and ought to run at small expense. Without doubt this one thing is more fruitful of domestic infelicity than all other causes combined. But it is organic with a man to love to hear all the spare cash rattle in his own pocket; and, therefore, the readjustment of things is beyond the bounds of hope. ‘Those who practice other tactics may usually have their peculiarity traced back to some more or less remote maternal ancestor, who was by continued worry in her finances egced cn to aggressive warfare over ways and means. Many women try to equalize mat- ters by making wage earning a side issue with their established duties as homekeep- ers, but it most often results in the fi cost of health, and is, therefore, and for the added reason that they consume oppor- tun'ties which should fall to women to whom no other refuge is open, never to be commended save where the real bread win- ner is unable to earn all the “needful” tHat their joint demands require Much of the difficulty of her position re- sulting from the uncertainty of her income may be obviated if the wage earner makes the homekeeper a regular and sutticient al- lowance for the expe ises of her dorninion. It is chiefly the fault of womea that the allowance plan is not more gene ticed. for it is their own lack of system in most cases which fails to insure its suc and brings about dissatisfaction. Then, at beginning, women are apt to put their es timate too low and to get in the habit of postponing one obligation or another to be “evened up” at some future flush time. No oné would expect a six-foot-two man to sleep under a five-foct blanket and keep both his heels and his shoulders warm. Yet there are plenty of people who will lay out a two-thirds allowance of money to run a four-thirds establishment. When economy must be practiced it is interesting to note the ditference in the way men and women go about it. Women almost invariably be- gin retrenching in the matter of servi either by lowering wages or by dispensing with servants and overtaxing their own strength, ignoring all the while very palpa- ble leaks jn other departments. It is due in part to the fact that her own work has a freprietary interest for her when she dees #t herself that the housekeeper un- derrates hired service. it is impossible for @ servant to feel sufficiently interested in her employer's financial status to work up- on insufficient pay. It is not always the pinched purse which makes a pinching peymaster, however. While it is so com- mon as to be almost a rule that women who themselves work for salaries are the prompt and liberal patrons of the er class of dependents, it is not unusual to find women ef large means who are cul- ly careless in the same line. ‘Their never felt the frost of adver- and so forth—that is the sentimental of it. The simple truth is there are ce— boors among women as well as men. The woman who can and will not pay for a service what it is worth, or who, ring »mpetition crowd some poor reedy crea- ture to the verge of misery. will set a starvation price upen work she deigns not to do or is glad to evade, ought to be brought down to bitter dependence as a punishment. MAN OF MODERATE MEANS. a Be From the New York § “The value of a sharp petr of s! long beer. commonly recognized, said the men of moderat2 means, “but I don’t think the ink bottle has ever begun to receive the recognition to which its usefulness entitles it. Indeed, if I were called upon to choose between them I should unhesitatingly pre- the Ink bottle. uuable as the shears undoubtedly are, their use is after all but Itmited, while the ink bottle ig useful In many ways. You can trim off a frayed shirt front or a pair f cuffs or a collar with a pair of shears, hat more can you do with them? ing hen the covering is worn off a button what shears? You get out ink the button mold grown white with t? find when you get your in the fall that the ich nevers takes e conspicuot lining show do you get 1 saturate that white thread how useful! color to the ing turned white t N of and ttonhole H on, If the i Kk can re ke a bir ut f ally prac- | should expect to such articles only un- der stress of emngree, If obliged to use them, do not ride a free horse to death, as the saying goes, but use sparingly, and leave the dainty toilet conveniences in as good a condition you found them. Re- member that in thé guest chamber is usual. ly fcund all thegpretty Christmas tidies and bits of bricéé-brac, the embroidered dresser scarf, match receivers, crocheted toilet traps and ®eribboned fancy affairs. On the “spare bed” are the ruffled and braided and embi@fdered pillow and sheet shams that lots nice people. still use, and the rugs in the guest chamber are gen- erally placed ther@ because they are prized too much to placp where they will be bad- ly used. If you ate-dainty and thoughtful you will fold those shams carefully each night and lay them where they will not get rumpled or soiled. You will not toss burning matches into the last new re- ceiver, and scorch it beyond hope of repa- ration. You will not spill any of your toilet liquids on the rugs or carpet, and you will treat the tidies and bureau scarf with tenderness and care. You will not push the lace or muslin curtains backein a wrinkled wad when you want more light, and you will not carelessly splash water on the carpet. That is, you will not do these things if you ara as retined as you would like people to think. If the friend whom you are visiting has but one servant you will thoughtfully care for your own room, making yourself as little trouble as possible. You will always be punctual to a minute in getting to the breakfast table—and all other meals, but to breakfast particularly. There is no meal during the day which, so upsets all a housekeeper’s calculations as a late break- fast. While you are creeping about your belated toilet the, coffee is cooking itself stale and the steak is getting leathery, while the men of the house are mentally, if not orally, execrating you for making them late to business. A well-bred girl will not give as an excuse that the break- fast hour at home is much later, for that makes her hostess feel like a criminal for suggesting that her guest break over the habits of a lifetime. Neither does the well- bred girl remark on any of the dishes serv- ed that she detests one, or that anything on the table disagrees with her. On the contrary, she will get herself up in as fascinating a morning dress as possible, and come to breakfast on time, with a smile and a kind werd for everybody, making believe that everything is pleasing, and that she is happy, even though she is miserable. She keeps her wits about her, and knows when to leave her hostess to herself. No guest is wanted around all the time, particuliriy in the morning, when the plens of the day have to be made and the house put in order. After the guest has airanged her own room she will busy herself with her correspondence or read- ing, or her fancy work, till her hostess is at liberty. She does not go to the parlor to do her writing when her hostess has ar- ranged for her to do it in her room. When the sitting room has been put in order for the day she does not snip silk or embroid- ery cotton all over the floor, necessitating a second cleaning. The Well-Bred Guest. The hostess whose guest is welcome in- vites her friends to visit her and provides such other entertainment as lies in her power, and the guest has no other voice in the matter than to accept it. No matter how provincial it all seems, or how much she may be bored,-it is her duty to appear to enjoy it. She will always be ready to go when her hostess desires her to, and she will never express a desire to leave the house when it is manifestly out of the way for her hostess to gv with her or to pro- vide her an escort.; Above all things she will never invite to, visit or to even call upon her anybody of whom her hostess might not approfe, and it would be basest WHEN ONE VISITS Some Girls Who Make Very Unde- sirable Guests. CONSIDERATION FOR THE HOSTESS How to Enjoy a Visit and Have Others Enjoy It. A FEW USEFUL DONT’S ee Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. WOULD HAVE chided any one who said to me that Min- nie Childs was ill bred, but after hav- ing her under my own roof for a week, I am forced to admit that she has much to learn in the way of making herself an acceptable guest.” That was the way a friend of mine spoke of the daughter of an old schoolmate, who had come to visit her and see Washington as well. “She seemed to me to be a girl of keen perceptions,” I remarked, “‘and quite equal to almost any emergency. Indeed, I thought she made quite a graceful appearance at your tea.”” “Oh, dear, yes, she knows well enough how to carry herself In company, but she is utterly selfish, and it surprises me, for you know her mother was one of the most self-sacrificing girls in college. Of course, she is young yet and might learn, but I fear her selfishness is so thoroughly grounded now that reform is out of the question. I don’t usually discuss my guests, but we have so often talked over the shortcomings of girls compared to what was expected of us when we were young that I would just like to tell you how Minnie imposed on me. You know I have but one servant now, and a small maid to run errands and wait upon the door. I expected to get another at once when I asked Minnie to visit us, but Bar- ton thought she would be well, enough to return right after the holidays, and as she is so capable, I conclided to wait. “Then I remembered how helpful and sweet Minnie’s mother always was, and said to myself that her daughter would certainly be like her, and willing to wait upon herself a little. The evening she came she had a bad headache, and said that nothing would help it but to have her hair combed—you know what long, beautiful hair she has—so my small hand- maid was set to do the task. She made a mess of it, for she can scarcely comb her | own locks, got scolded by Minnie, and now hates her most heartily. But every day while Minnie remained she took my maid from the door for an hour to comb her hair! She never got up to breakfast, but came down an hour or more late, though gratitude to ask fo the house of one’s I told her at what hour we breakfasted. te: try ‘best friend, without The third morning she rang for her coffee | jirst gaining her permission. ‘The well-bred and a roll to be brought to her room, ‘Mamma always brings it to me at home,” she informed me when I carried the tray up myself, ‘and I feel quite weak for an hour or two if I don’t get my coffee in bed!’ guest never draws invidious comparisons between the house she is visiting and the one she visited Tast, and never remarks that they did things Very differently there. She couldn't make such a speech and be well-bred, for it’ wollld imply either that they treated her better in the last place, or that she felt thitt she had not been well ated, and that wduld her present stess with thé fmpre: that at the She Was Not a Joy. “She was extremely untidy about her reom, and left her belongings scattered about over dressing case, chairs and couch, } next place her guést shee herel?. and never once thought of even turning | would be discussed in like manner and her 2 well-meant endeavors spoken of slightingly. back the clothes to air her bed, to say) “7 yuuy and, perhaps, most important of nothing of making it, as you and I were} aj, the well-breg gudst never gossips, tells taught to do, even when we visited in a] or talks about the Tamily affairs of her house with a number of servants. She| friends to her hostess. The sometime quite deprived my mother of her favorite | guest often gets peeps into family closets chair in the family recom, and gave such | where repose whole cemeteries of skeletons. distinct disapproval of a pipe that my | It is pure accident that reveals them ger husband had to indulge in his only dis-| erally, and only an ingrate would ever sipation in the privacy of our room or for-| tattle of what happened. Sometimes a zo the pleasure entirely. She detested chil-| sorrowful family secret is uncovered; a dren and unmercifully snubbed Rex, who | family quarrel is witnessed unwittingly; little economies, before unsuspected, are made known; a’ thousand and one things may happen, to which you must appear to be blind, and to which, after leaving the house, you must be dumb. In ancient Greece {t was customary to hang above the banqueting tab’ a rose, for a sign that greatly admired her pretty face, and, child- like, wanted to touch it with his hands. As for the baby, she remarked more than once that a squalling baby ought to be choked! Oh, I can't begin to tell you all the awful things she said and did, and never in my life before was I so delighted to see the door close behind an invited | whatever was said and done there was to | guest. The minute Lucile is out of long| be forgotten or only spoken of thereafter clothes I intend to begin educating her | among those then present. To all others how to become an acceptable guest.” the seal of silence was set upon all lips. Now I have more than once questioned | Hence came “sub rosa,” or “under tbe myself why it is that so few girls know | rose.” It would be a splendid motto for how to behave when away from home, | all guests to carry with them. and for the time being made a member of | When the visit is over and the guest has the family which they are visiting. [ have | returned to her home, she will, within a been dreadfully tried by girl friends of | week, write to her hostes: si both Dorothy and Rose, but one never | thanks for the courtesies tendered he quite likes to discuss the faults and fail-{do it in a hearty way that will make the recipient believe that she means it. A girl who does ail these things, and does them naturally, will never lack for invitations ings of those who have broken bread and eaten salt under one’s own roof on a foot- ing of equality, so beyond trying to cor- | rect any. tendeney to like ill-bred actions | to pleasant homes, for she is the kind of | that I have discovered in the girls I have | girl that people like to have around. kept my peace. After all if a young girl SENORA SARA. is not instructed how to demean herself ——— in the heme of another she can’t be ex- eee cae pected to know much about it. NOT EV DEBE. Minnie demonstrated that. She had been 1 to being waited upon by her mother Devices for Improving the Personal us |when at home, and quite helple Appearance of Men and Wome | When away. It suddenly burst over me | ijn the Cincinnatl Comm a that if Rese were to go away from me she |“ \V.nity furnishes the inspiration for many s troublesome, for there many things she has not been taught he has never learned to care for her own hair. I like to comb and arrange her by telling her she must learn to do it her- | !mpuritles out of the skin and males the self. It nearly broke her heart, and 1| Complexion clearer. Sun tan is quickly re- couldn't see much better than she when | Moved, so it ts claimed. ; at ‘ aid dd vyeg | Another device, for producing @ she looked with rueful, tear-dimmed eves | , Another device, tor Pree ire m: would be quite of the Inventions of the patent office. One of these is a mask of very thin rubber, de- signed to be worn on tie face at night. It ar and mples, 1s like- at the reflection in the mirror of Ler untidy fs a eked e to put on when going to bed. By an efforts at coiffuring herself. UE Oe ee Gi A ae oh Duties of a Guest. blunt, are made to press "pon the eks and chin at the points where dim- Uncomfortable? Why, of “I think it is just dreadful to grow up,” e cried at Inst. “Young ladies don't hay. ars cucuee = Nee aR ee aE thes neve | Sousen De he French say. it ts worth e a is a y "3 sake. to do everything for themselves and be so hips and calves are made of nd blown out like balloons, while xcused for any- | rubber, to bre in many oth the young lady of build hop. y ue may pro- evre a complete stuffed jacket, which fills out her form at eve point to the extent | requisite for counterfeiting desirable em- bonpoint. If one is so unfortu n obtain a fals proper, and never can he e thing, ‘because they are such children.’ ppose L am spoiled,” she ended a little , as she turned from the inirror, “but d, Sara, I'd so much rather be ‘Rose in bloom’ than ‘Rese.’ I'll try to be ver: good if you only won't treat me grown up. eas to lack a nose one of papier mache, le swlayyouuayes nor time: to) don my, enameled to imitate the skin. Gne bair and ure my nails and thing Rae it) won't! seera half a ery time © that the owner puts on you say ‘you are old enough to do thing: aj organ in adjusting his yourself’ 1 want to ery. Did Ls ly gitl, you are too olf to Staph ne re Ean a Masculine vanit is concerned in the be so foolish?’ No, 1 didn’t. I kissed her | genesis of about aixhty patents for various grieved red lips and told her it should | Epnesis of about olsBty Ms. One such is a hie as she wished, and that she should be | gyi plate with spring, which may be a child as long as she wished, and she | ¢.ctened to any drinking sel at a mo- shall, but it shall not. hinder ‘her from | fstened to any drinking vessel being a womanly helpful on: ‘Another is specially designed for beer I don't believe thate there are = many} gigsses. A tube conjecting with It goes women who realize that social success de-| Gown deep into the leer, so that the mus- pends as much upon knowing how to be | tached drinker is able to avoid the foam. entertained as upon knowing how to en-| “Other guards are destined to be worn like tertain. The girl who is selfish, arrogant, BEG CE BALE a a pretentious, indolent, unpunctual or given | (pe ys Sete te Me ene wearer, and fot suesipy Is ever @ welcome eu hold them on. ‘THe shield for the mustache ee ee eras is of gold or silver, of of fine gold wire net. s of “saying what she thinks, re of consequen is never a W guest, either. In it takes more talent and a greater degree of culture to make one a welcome visitor than it does to do anything else in social life. You have to remember that you have been invited—for = eee Papa Seventy-Nine, Mamma Seventeen From the Courier. With ¢ll due deference to Gen. Cassius Marcellus Clay, Clay ‘county claims that it can go Madison courty just a few points journal. of course you are not guilty of such a breach of social oms as to go any-| better in the matter of an aged groom and where uninvit use of the pleasure | a juvenile bride. The admission is made that your presence in house Hence, it should be your ¢ would give. ef aim while so old as was Gen. the s not so young as ay groom was not and the bride ¥ under ‘the hospitable roof to make your-| ora, but as things stand, Clay county self_ agreeable. ; ; minima thenurize When you prepare for your visit you | We TP aes Col. P. ¥. Lyttle, past should consider it in e nt, andi make | .Ovctyeisne. an exstate senatcr’ and a your ngements accordingly. If the of some. note, married a pretty friend whose guest you are to be is en-| mountain lass who was just sixteen. She |dowed with few of this world’s goods | Was his fourth wife, but the colonel’s love | in proportion to your own It will be ex-| Was as h and warm and young as fecedingly bad taste for you to ci When half a century before he had been ou a lot of fine new gowns made a groom for the first time. A few i outshine modest wardrobe. H ago he was about to make a motion her by wearing pretty toilets, of course, | jufore the judge, when a box of safety hut do not express in them the fact th Sere ico meno paeketsatd al ane your father has “money to burn.” ScolGnel lush like a school girl f with all the necessary toilet reared at his home a ticles. young man was at uowtan eirentis: once name Watterson Lyttle, and One always e1 3 to find in the guest | elected # lif of the Clay: County, : Democr chambe ything of that The prese ule was named after though, as a matter of fact, on her husban id wife, her maiden tations are often disappointed—but one | name being Ellen Lyttle Lunsford, ARTISTIC ROOMS The Style and the Materials of the Draperies Used. SOME OF THE IDEAS NOW IN VOGUE Money is Not Needed as Much as Good Taste. CHEAP, BUT EFFECTIVE ————— Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HERE IS NO SE- I eret to learn about draping. The really artistic draper has an instinct as to how textiles should fall, and where they should be looped up. Some women can take a newspaper, fix a knot here, a fold there, and it is grace {tself; another will wear the paper mto © shreds and accom: plish nothing. Still, a good deal can be learned by imitation and from advice by some perplexed little housewife who has the draperies, but knows not how to ar- range thein. At doorways instead of the conventional hangings portieres are swung the full height of the wall, the rod being placed where wall and ceiling meet, and the dra- pery falling straight to the floor, simply caught back each side, just above the door- way, to show a bracket filled with odd jars and plaques. This 1s especially ef- fective if a piece of Moorish open work 1s above the door, for then the rich colors of the portiere can be seen through the interstices from the next room. In many instances these carved pieces are left un- draped and only one portiere used in the doorway. This should be an extra lengthy one of rich pattern, one long end hanging to the floor, the other loosely wrapped over the rod and falling about twenty inches down on the opposite side. Many single doors have only one curtain, the material bought by the yard and the fringe sewed on. No rings are used. The rod is put on inside the doorways, with RNa RAVE WON ISA sedan, space above sufficient to permit the por- tleres to be thrown over the pole once or twice, according to the width of the door- wey, one end reaching to the floor, the other quite short. The fabric should be wound so loosely over the pole that the “sagging” in the center will forta graceful curves. Double doorways, of course, need two curtains, and many are hung in the way mentioned; 1. e., coming from the ceiling. Most of them, however, are put on movable cranes, fastened inside the doorway, and attached like brackets to the casings; these lack several inches of touching each other, and swing in and out with the portieres on them, to the greatest convenience of pass- ers. For windows the drapery remains elab- orate in the four-piece style; that is, for strictly correct windows. First comes the plain White shade, then a sash curtain of pale silk—preterably yellow; next, dainty lace curtains, and lastly a heavy ‘Turkish curtain of mingled oriental colors. The lace curtains are hung plain, and one ‘Turkish curtain is swung over the pole in the way 1 have described. Muslin and Japanese crepe seem to be the prevailing ft ion for bed room curtains. ‘The old-fashioned lambrequin has had its day, but a reminiscence of it is often seen in a narrow piece of rich silk looped across the curtain in some fanciful way. When the window ts a bay the silk is carried along trom one pole to another, forming a continuous upper drapery. Solid tapestries, Japanese embroideries and eastern rugs are used for canopies. In one of the most charming houses in Wash- ington is a hall effect which is the envy of every one who sees it. A divan running along at the side of the steps, and covered with a ‘Turkish rug, is the principal fea- ture. ‘I'he pillows are of every shape, size with materials from covered and ariety all over the world, even to a bandanna hand- kKerchief worn by a southern “mammy.” ra anopy 1 spended by means of ar (that projects trom the balustrade) is of rich “Turkish drapery; one end under the cushions, the other ltwisted low on the balustrade. A back- ground 1s formed by a series of heavily embroidered Chinese robes, and at either end of the fascinating recess are hung eastern Janterns of colored glass. ‘As to the lining of curtains, much de- pends on their position and whether tho backs of the hangings are visible from a room beyond; in which case care must be taken that the material-selected for the lining goes well both with the coloring of the portieres and with the general tone of the next apartment. When both sides of the curtain are in this way almost equally important the lining may be, if desired of rich material, handsomely embroidered silk or tapestry hangings being frequently backed with plush or flax velours, this iat- ter being especially popular with decora- tors, as it is eomparatively inexpensive and manufactured in a great variety of artistic colors. For ordinary linings almost any fabric may be employed; silk and satin of different qualities and ‘sateen are much used, also woolen. materials, such as me- rino. Many people who covet for their window or door hangings the handsomely brocaded curtains for which such high prices are asked do not realize that they may obtain them for a much less price by purchasing the material by the yard and having it mad2 up at home. An economical little woman has just fin- ished a complete overhauling of her tiny drawing rooms, and “thereby hangs a tale” which may possibly be of use in the way of affording hints, etc, to other house- wives. While living in the perfection of what is termed “good style,” she has anything but the wealth of a millionaire at her co! mand—so knowing the exact limit of avail- able funds, she bravely commenced opera- tions. It would be impossible to give a de- tailed account of all her expedients, but the plan pursued for the curtains is worthy of elaboration. She visited a store devoted to the sale of theatrical costumes and fur- nishings, and selected a fine piece of old French brocade in soft shades of blue, chat harmonized with the scheme of her room; then some dull, old-gold satin for the lining was purchased, and the two given to her maid to be made up. Insteaq of having lace or muslin curtains to place‘under them she had a double row of deep lace sewn on rather full down the edges, and all her friends are trying to find out where she purchased them, so rich and uncommon are they in appearance. nee FANS ARE STYLISH. Some of the Forms and the Material That is Used. From the New York Herald. Fans are once again assuming importance as a prominent detail of a woman's toilet. There was a time when fans—that is, hand- some ones—were not considered absolutely necessary, but now every ball gown is sup- posed to have a fan to match it, and, as in the olden days, they are often veritable works of art. Expensive luxuries are many of them, for such rare materials are used in their composition. Connoisseurs in beau- tiful things have always had an admira- tion for these fanciful trifles, and there Is more than one valuable collection of fans in this country and in Europe—fans which have most romantic histories connected with them; fans puinted by artists of world-wide fame; fans composed of almost priceless bits of lace, and fans with sticks in which are set jewels of great value. In the Metropolitan Museum in this city is a very large and handsome collection, which is interesting in showing the differ- ent styles, no less than in beauty of the fans themselves. The fashionable fan this winter is cer- tainly not pretty or graceful. It is what is called the empire fan, and it is the exact counterpart of those carried at that period —indeed, some were undoubtedly made at that time. With an entire empire costume —with every detail carefully carried out— perhaps they would look better, but used as they are this winter, with the very com- plex fashions of this year of grace, they exhibit a most unplcasing anachronism. The Retter, the Loveller. There are two kinds of these feather fans. One has a single stick, generally of tor- toise shell or amber, and is made of four or five long, graceful plumes, with an aigrette or bird in the center. This sort of a fan is more ornamental than useful, and has never been so much liked as those that close. There is, of course, a great differ- ence in the beauty and price. Perfect os- trich feathers of the samo length are by no means easy to secure, and the made feathers, as are called those which are sewed together, piece by piece, are not nearly so handsome. These fans should be as large as can conveniently be carried. The white, the black and the natural color feathers are by far the handsomest, and the amber or tortoise shell sticks are most suitable. In the handle of the sticks dia- monds are sometimes inserted, but not large stones. So graceful and artistic are these feather fans that one of the best xnown photographers in the city always makes his subjects pose with a fan behind the head or held carelessly in the lap. Lace fans in the time of our grandmoth- ers vere very beautiful, and some of the most exquisite pieces of lace in existence have been woven expressly for this pur- pose. The pattern of the lace never shows to more advantage than when stretched on a fan, and if one wishes to have the very latest luxury one shoulc order the lace for wedding gown and far to match. Ductesse lace fans can now be had for comperatively small expense, and they are extrerrely pretty. Of medium size, with mother of peari, amber or tortoise shell sticks, they add greatly to the beauty of an evening gown, but care must be taken that the lace is fine, for nothing is less de- sirable than poor, coarse lace. Black lace fans are never very pretty, but the black gauze painted are cften the very handsom- est carried. The black gauze, with gilt or silver spangles and inlaid sticks, lighten up a dull toilet marvelously, and give a de- lightfully coquettish air. Gauzy Favorite: The fans most in style this winter are made of gauze, on which is painted some small picture, around which are placed medallicns of point la A narrow bead- ing of the same sort of lace is also put on the gauze at the top of the fan. The lace used is rare old point, and the effect of the combined materials is very light and airy and exceedingly dainty. These fans are of medium size, between the feather and empire, and have amber or mother of pearl stic The rarest old painted fans are on paper or a sort of parchment, which, as time has proved, retains its freshness and presery the colors better than any other material Such treasures, though, are not for com- mon use, but are carefully guarded with valuable miniatures and heirlooms. Men are proverbially careless with fans, and it is amusing to watch the agonized expression of some of the debutantes’ faces at the dances when their partners, with an absolute recklessnes3, toy with their cherished trifles of gauze and lace. There is an unwritten law that men should re- place the fans they break, but it is a law which has not as yet gone into effect, and in consequence some girls will never carry any fan they prize to a dance. ‘The paper fans on which are represented Mexican or Spanish bull fights are ex- tremely effective, and have deen much used even with silk and satin gowns. At one time it was only pos: to buy them in Mexico or the West In and, therefore, they were brougit heme only as souvenirs by people who visite those countries, bat now they can be bought at almost any shop. ‘They are of nedium size, with some light substance glued on to intensify the bright colors of sash or ornaments of the painting, and the woolen sticks are gaily ornamented with red and gilt. Plain colored gauz fans to exactly match the color of the gown are carried by some women, who like to have all points of their costume to correspond. It must be con- fessed there is a certain artistic effect in shoes, gloves, fan and gown all of pale pink or pale yellow, which, when becoming, 1s exceedingly so, but there must be under such circumstances great care caken that the original color ts not xlaring. For very young girls who wear pale blue, pale pink or white ball gowns the emy fans in the same color, with their tracin of gilt, are very pretty, and lo not look awkward as when carvied by older women, to whom the feather 2nd lace fans seem so much better suited. There is to be, so IT am told, a new school } for instruction in the use of the fan, and rules for the graceful handling thereof. There are many women who could be ben- efited by a course of such lessons, for very | few Americans can fan themselves grace- fully. They put any Ge snenes nto) the act, and by so lefeat their own ends, for a_ slow, fanning cools one off much quic bbnidion Cehows to ater advants and hand. +o as More Distinction Than Difference. | From Li then you mez a constitutional lia) “Oh, dear, no sah! My dear sah, no sah! His family ‘is one of the best in the state, a family, sah, full of the bluest of biue bi He could not pos: be a common, vulgar lar, sah. It’s not possible, sah. He latement, and his not to be ied yon, and my advice to you is to believe nothing | e but to call him a liar—considering his family—would be preposte not to say dangerous, sah!” to say that the man is has a weakness for m! word is STARTLING REVELATIONS METZEROTT MUSIC HALL. Washington Shaken to Its Founda- tion by the Marvelous Manifestations. Hundreds Congratulate Dr. Damon Upon His Wonderful Power. Nothing. Like It Ever Witnessed Be- fore. We are indeed living in an age of marvels, and if one can believe thelr own serses they can no longer have uny doubts or misgivings about the grand work of heuling the sick that is now going on daily at the above hall. Scores of hitherto hopeless and helpless sufferers have been made well and sound by this greatest of living magnetic physicians, Dr. Damon. “The greatest interest in this novel m of curing disease has been manifested from the start, yet those who have never seen the cures made at these public clinics could not realize the magnitede of the wonderful powers shown, Several cases of rheumatism were cured in a few moments, while deafness was b thing in the hands of Large tumors disap- ta the doctor or his associate. peared before the eyes of the audience, while one or two treated for blindness said the benefit thus obtained was marvelous Yesterday afternoon a special, lecture and clinic was given to ladies, and although it was advertised but little, the hall ‘was crowded with the elite and fashion of the city. The doctor spoke about the duties of mothers to thelr sons and daughters; also vpon the necessity of watchful care of the’ first symptoms of diseave. The lecture was illustrated by charts and drawings and was well received, many congratulating him at the close. The most intense interest was shown in the clinic when one after another poor cripple was taken to the stage and given the use of thelr limbs, A Mrs. Martin had been unable to get her hands to her head owing to a serlous rhoumatie trouble for sixteen years, yt in les: than five minutes she had the perfect use of them agein. A case that attracted great attention was that of a lady who had been troubled with a tumor twenty- five years. ‘The doctor called several ladies from the audience to examine it before he touched 1 He then treated it four minutes, and the ladies e: amined it again and found it had been reduced tn that short time over one-alf. Mrs. Mary Gordon had a stiff knee cured in a few moments, and one old lady on crutches for three years was’ cured so she walked without their aid in less than five min- utes. While some twenty or wore were treated for varlous troubles with not a single failure, yet wot half that wanted treatment could get up to the doctor or his associate at all. Surely nothing has attracted the attention of our people as have theso remarkable exhibitions, and the great wonder is how the doctor's strength will admit of such a vast outlay of vital force every day. It is estimated that over 115,000 people have witnessed these marvelous cures, and yet the crowds are increasing daily. And no wonder, for it Is the most interest ing eatibition ever witrissed in Washington. Tag next lecture and clinic will be given Sunday at 2 o'clock, while those wishing private treatment will find Dr. Damon at nls permanent office, 698 12th street northwest, whe-e corsultation may be bad free of cost. The adn.ission to the hall is free, 80 those wishing gvod seats stould go early. Doors open at 1:30. ‘These lectures and clinics will be beld every af- re ing Saturday. and every bring those of their = WOMEN ON BIKES. Some Suggestions as to the Most Con- venient Costume. From the New York Herald. Knickerbockers are undoubtedly from this time forward to be a part of the feminine costume, but, fortunately, not visibly so. They are made of black satin for golf and for wear, if the streets are muddy or for long tramps in the country, but they are invariably hidden by a skirt. When part of the bicycle costume, they are made of the same material as the costume itsel and, like riding trousers, are lined with chamois. ‘They must be carefully fitted and well cut, and no amateur hands should be intrusted with the making of knicker- bockers. ‘They are very full over the knee and are gathered just below it with a nar- Before the Skirt is Donned. row elastic band. They are fastened at either side of the waist, and the smartest ores have several gores over the hips. The black satin ohes are fastened with a strap and buckle, and look very much like the satin and Velvet Knee breeches that used to be in fashion years ago for men’s wear. Long leggins of gaiters are always worn with knickerbockers in bicycling. These leggins are very dithcult to get well fitting. $s yet, no one, bootmaker or tailor, has tained the acme of perfection in them. Many of these are made of the samg cloth s the knickerbockers and are buttoned to the band below the knee. With legs so well clothed. there is far less danger of catching cold, and much less danger from falling, than when many skirts are worn. The newest fashion in walking skirts is @ Smartly Gowned. cut that flares out so very well from the hips that {t quite does away with the very poor look an ordinary dress skirt has when not held out by under-petticoats. One of the newest models for a bicycle skirt has lately been brought over from England. it fastens at each side of the front breadth, and a short way down from the wi line opens into a double box pleat. back of the skirt is full, but there is very littie fulln r the hips. ‘The extra fullness given by the box pleat in front ts one of the best devices possible, for it entire®, hides the motion of the knees, which is absolutely nec in bi- ling, and which even the most preju- vor of the sport cannot but ad- edingly ug! vaists of bicycle costumes are many ious. ‘Tho: that have the basque re short jackets worn over much m@ becoming than ckets or the short, ro: of the year, even n sather Is ‘enough to permit wearing of a swe er beneath an un but the moment the weathe warmer it will be possible to unything so heavy and warm. a — diced tn td Blasted H m the Indianapol Journal. ‘Still thinking of becoming an actress? ast play I witnessed there was a girl who put her hat on straight without the aid of a mirror. I am sure I cculd never learn to do that in a thous- and year: pes.