Evening Star Newspaper, September 15, 1894, Page 16

16 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1894—EIGHTEEN PAGES. SOME FALL IDEAS The Latest Styles and Materials for Ladies’ Wear SILK WILL BE A PRIME FAVORITE | poe ee Pretty and Graceful Designs for Evening and Visiting Gowns. Se A LIGHT AUTUMN —__.____ CAPE Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. OUCLES ARE be great again this fi They come in all col- ors, usually a solid contrasting Navy blue, with black another. make an elegant looking gown, but a word to these who must buy carefully and for long service. In less than a month you will hate a bovcle gown if you have to Wear it constantly. It catches everything that fs tying around loose. It pulls at every opportunity, an] makes a good many. Con- Sequently, it is not long until a boucle gown has to be literally sheare] to make it look presentable at all. If you do not go over it every time you put it on, it soon Gets to looking like an umcombed skye terrier. Serge will be as popular as ever. It comes More coarsely twilled, and with wider wales. It is in both solid colors and two- toned diagonals. These will be quite the favorites for tailor-made gowns during the autumn. One can never fail to have a serviceable gown if serge is the material employed. Covert suitings will vie with serg-. They are very smoothly finished ana as ‘ustrous as wool sateens. A tailor A Visith gown of covert clot received eve Tollet. es its wearer value rovided, terials as serge then one will feel fi @ reputable cutter and fitter, isfection that a good fit enge: @ gown to one s> that at least one making over is assured. Whip cords are shown in solid colo effects. ‘They do not differ materially from those wora last season, and every woman who has ever worn a whip cord tailor-made gown knows them to be serviceab! Ameng the cheaper wools, all the last fall's weaves are duplicated, the only difference being that there are a few new shades among the browns, greens ani blues. Some Favorite Dress Materials. Sik will be a prime vorite through the fall anyhow, en through the winter for ceremonious occasions. AN the corded silks are again in evidence. Gros grain has been quite restored to favor after a long retirement. An oddity thet I saw in a shop e some new cases were just being opened is silk woven in te:cks about nehes square; one block is plain black nd the other is satin with a in it. The effect is bold ia It may do to combine with ‘s—namely, plain wools, but for 1, I'd like to see the wo- wear it and not look Satin stripad gros grains are One in ‘h wide stripe with inch wide stripes simply exquisite. it as lustrous that need no tas are sho with some other the extreme. other fabr i was last winter. It is rather early yet to talk of evening An Evening Froek. ost passe, and it is getting iate for thin muslin ones, yet there are many litle aifairs being given to which one would like to wear a new gown if it did rot cost too much. Here ts a pretty one that almost any one could make in a few hours. Por the slip or under body and skirt take one of last season’s gowns, some light or bright color if you have it. If no color ts available take one of your old white ones. Rip all the trimming off the Bodice and the tatl of the skirt end make it walking length. If the slip is white put @ facing of cream point de Venise around the bottom and turn up on the outside. Or you can put one, two or three ruffles on it of the lace or of the silk just as seems to come handiest. For the overskirt and waist covering get some delicate shade of chiffon—pale green over white was th: one I saw—and {it was lovely. Make a long full skirt of the chiffon, rounding it up a Uttle shorter at the sides, and finishing with a full ruffie of the same, or if you hzppen to have a lot of lace that will do it will be a charming adiditian *~ wea that. Cover the bodice with folds of the chiffon or puffs and put all the rest of the chiffon into the puffs on the sleeves. Gather some lace around the low neck so that {t will fall over the front and stand out over the shoulder in epaulette fashion. Right in the center of the back put a rabbit's ear bow of black velvet, and have a black velvet belt with short ends in front. If you have an old k it will make up into an elegant gown combined with black chif- fon. Cream white silk and pearl white chiffon is very effective also, The chiffon so hides the old sill that the dress seems quite new, and the expense is small for as pretty a creation as it turns out. A lovely visiting gown sent out by a modiste last weeX is of dark gray brocaded sik, with an edd combination of black Black Satin Coat. satin and white-lace garmiture. The wing shaped black satin pieces at the sides are pointed in the back as in the front, and have two bands of white lace insertion and are ‘edged with white lace. The bands across the front are black satin ribbon, and are caught with a long narrow steel buckle. The three capes over the shoulders are of satin, and at the left side is a bow of black satin ribbon with long ends. The collar of satin has a bow in the back and a ripple of lace falls ever the sides of the bodic2, which is buttoned with large cro- cheted silk buttons. One of the fancies of the hour is a black satin cvat. If the satin is thick as a board and the fit of the coat is perfect—and the form over which it is stretched is perfect like vise—then a black satin coat is a very handsome.garment. But there are a great many “ifs in the way. Black satin, un- adorned, is trying to the most exquisitely shape figure, and this black satin coat has not a suspicion of trirming on it beside the stitchirg. A vecy pretty design is made th a docble breasted coat front, slightly pointed back and tront, and cut quite short on the ht ae umbretla skirt, which has ell the fullness adjusted in the back, 1s put on the waist plain, and has two rows of stitching, and the sime on the sleeves and revers. A pretty skirt to wear with it Is made of black peau de saie, brocaded with rese birls in colors. The skirt is made per- fectiv plain. If you have a figuce that would warrant your sitting as a model for a Venus, then you may wear this with ef- fect; otherwise, you wouli better teave it alene. Sleeves still continue to gyrate in a most wonderful f; i = tend to believe that they will be smallet P no sign of mercy ¢ ss of the cos y on the sleey ¥; they take more ul than the waist, and there is more labor expended to invent new effects. A huge butterfly ar- ment of the material upoa a coat 4 foundation lining fs among the s king devices. Ancther shionable node is er portiva extend- Is in perfes h it one having its draped up ing from the neck. It lows to th> elbow, belo to the wrist. It isn’t. pi be graceful, and t ose who are The emp well. It is so € three-que rather than to short, that 1 # very leove Is ar, the full, t. It some- Ss comes ist, where it is gath- ered to . but it ean be fitted ever a ning and drocp over a leep, plain ci For a I mn cap? nothms neater or simpler than two half circles, one a lit- tle longer than the other, offers itself. The we A Neat Cape. } may be anything that you lke, ‘ tin, or cloth, but, ef course, cloth will be the mest serviceable. The model is of tan cloth lined with red a d the much this edge. It is the dress waists r aderbilt to There fs no of making iting. The cir- ng to the bottom quite chic. They usualty a hood lined with bright silk, or plaid material of some rich texture. It is rumored thut fur will not be worn as much this season as |: Stut don’t you fre And, nore, ylon't give away big capes. When the res to don it, you will see just about #8 much fur as ever, though it may not be used to decorate le SOWwnS, as it was last season. Nobody will regret that, however. BELL BALL, -—_____ TOURS. As Compared With Passing the Honcy- moon in Quiet Retirement. From the Philadelphia Press. Not a few sensible women feelingly ad- vise their girl friends who are about to be married not to take a bridal tour at once, hut to wait several months or even a year or two, when the excitement and fatigue at- tending the preparations and wedding and the eager anticipations of the new home are over, and the journey can be thoroughly enjoyed. They represent that the orcinary wedding journey is a positive strain on the affections; traveling is of itself fatiguing to nerves as well as muscles, apt to pro- duce irritability, and almost inevitably in- imical to the personal appearance, and a bride naturally desires to look her best in the eyes of him who has honored her above all other women. There is a fashion which is growing in favor of a newly wedded cou- ple retiring to some quiet, tsolated place to spend the honeymoon, but this, too, has its disadvantages. There is too much oppor- tunity for disillusionment, which, if it must come, is easier to bear in gradual install- ments. A certain young English couple, who had been so surrounded by relatives and friends that they had actually never seen each other alone during their engage- ment, were tendered the use of a friend's shooting box fer the honeymoon. They hailed the offer with joy, the remoteness of the little house being its chief attraction, but In a week they began to wonder if mar- riage were not a failure. It 1s impossible to be more absolutely alone than in a crowd, and the crowd has some advantages which are not to be gainsaid. On many accounts a few days spent at a comfortable hotel in an interesting city with which one at least of the bridal pair is unfamiliar, WEDD: factory way of adjusting themselves to the mew o-ditions of their united lives HOUSEHOLD HINTS Good Recipes for Spoiling a Wife and Also a Husband. A SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL A Method of Washing Flannels Without Shrinking Them. YOUTHFUL TABLE MANNERS > Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. Send your children into the open air just as much as possible. Open air exercise is one of the mcst important conditions for the preservation and obtaining of health, and, though exercise for the young infant must be passive, for the child who can run and play it should be very active indeed. Children, instead of being commanded to walk, lest they stumble and soil their clothes, should be encouraged to play as much as possible. Boys should have sets of harness so that they can play horse with their mates. Girls should have jumping ropes and doll carriages, and both should have tops and balls and hoops and every other kind of outdoor toy that will lead them to exercise. Ball is a developer for girls as well as boys. It is the oldest of all games, and the one most in favor with the Greeks, the nation of all others the most remarkable for the muscular symmetry of its men. es 2 © © To spoil a wife, snub her in company. To Spoil a husband, henpeck him. Now there are two good recipes for stirring up a first- class divorce suit. 7 8 © @© There are lemon squeezers and lemon squeezers, but I wouldn't use one of them. The acid on meta) makes the juice taste metallic, and the wooden ones are apt to leave a bad taste. Beside that, if you use a Jemon squeezer, you are sure to get a lot of the essential oil out of the rind of the lemon, and that is rank poison to the stomach. The best way to get the juice from a lemon is to roll it till it is soft, then cut off the end and insert a silver knife and scrape the pulp out into the dish. That way you get ali the good of the lemon and none of the bad. Roll them under your hand on a hard table or put the lemon down on the floor and roll it lightly unde: your f90t. Then wipe it off before squeez- ing. Never leave the seeds of a lemon in the pulp that you take out. The seeds will make the juice very bitter, and in half an hour after taken from the lemon, os -e- 6. 6 An excellent salad dressing without oil is made as follows: Pound the hard boiled yoiks of two eggs until perfectly smovth, then add a teaspoonful of mixed inustard, a saltspoontul of salt, a good pinch of pepper, the same of cayenne, a teaspoonful of lemon. juice and a teaspoonful of sugar. Mix these ingredients well together, then add a sutfti- cient quantity of cream and vinegar—equal paris—to make the preparation the con- ency of a good thick cream. The dress- ing may be citber poured over the salad or set on the table in a pretty glass cruet or bottle, so that each one may use It as de- sired. * € 6 Men of the wrong style arg sure to flock about a young girl who dresses flashily, and who behaves 2s she dresses, They amuse themselves by experimenting on her nity and “sesing how far they can go.” She would not enjoy hearing the remarks they make about her aftcrward, however. No i anythiag by lowering the stand- rd of decorum. Men may flirt with her, fietter her and fool her; but she does not | win the esteem of the kind of men whose love follows respect, but never precedes it, ook «ef When you are about to buy a silk dress and fear that it may be adulterated with other fibers a good way to test it is as fol- lows: Get a sample of it and immerse it in hydro-caloric acid th ik, and leave all the wool and cotton ected, for the time, as it takes a much lenger time to eat them out. Another method is to drop a litue of the acid upon the sample, when, if pure silk, a uole will be made in the silk almost immediately. If the fabric is impure the threads left wiil in- dicate the nature and extent of the adulter- ation. s © © we A good old Scotch housewife says that her fiannels never shrink, and it ts because she washes them in cold water. She puts them in clean cold soap suds and washes them di- rectly, them she puts them through a second suds, and rinses them in cold water and hangs them out to dry without. wringing them all. She never washes flannels on a rainy or cloudy day, but always waits for sunshine, . ee The great secret of keeping flowers fresh is to keep them moist and ¢ool. The heads of sweet-smelling flowers should not be sprinkled, as that causes them to lose their perfume. Those who wish to carry flowers any distance should wrap them in wet pa- per and pack them in a box. nation pinks and delicate white flowers should be covered with oiled paper. Flor- ists send flowers thousands of miles by observing these precautio: * The high pitched nasal tone, heard so often in America, is the result only of lack of cultivation. We teach our children to turn out their toes, because rot to do so is productive of a very ugly appearing car- riage. Why not teach them to turn cut their yoices good and round for quite a good a reason—that a thin, through-the- nose tone is simply abominable. A iaother who permits her children to talk through their noses is laying up for them an ele- ment of torture and futy scomfort. Es- pecially is this so if ske has a daughter, ‘The time will come when the daughter will 1 Iie reading her mothor sce of her 1 for neglecting so impuctant y education. It Is alr, ect the fault aft part of ost impossible 23 grown up. to corr A boy may desire t tor, but owing to his mother he is barred. The daughter may desire to sing. The mother’s indifference will, however, h shut her out fron so pleasant a dil- version and charming aceomplishinent. Business men say that yne of the requisites of a good business man is a good voice. A Frenchman, who had been entertained for half an hour or more b; Sweet-voiced young lady, who was r 4 Various in- eldents to him, final'y s I fear mon- steur thinks I am in love with my own voice.” And he gallantly responded, *1 am sure madamoiselle ts fond of music; all ladies are; and I know that I a Such a compliment is worth the «ffort to win, Any young girl can acquire a cicar, sweet, even voice by a little care, tanught and practice, but it must be commencal in childnood if you would have it perfct. oe One of the first things to teach a little child whe has arrived at the dignity of a seat at the table, and a plate and spoon, is that he must not teke upon his plate more than he can eat. Most children will de- mand a little of everything on the table. Den't comply, unless you are sure that it will all be eaten. When a child gets its plate filled its first impulse is to “muss.” And when tt begins to do that it is time to put it down from the table. It is not a wise polley to have upon the table any article of food that the children may not eat. But if you are so unwise as to pre- cipitate a family row by so ‘loing, be firm in refusing to let the children mdifige; wise parents, however, spare themselves ond their children all unnecessary trouble. If a child insists that it will eat certain things and you put them on its plate,-see that it does cat them. Not at the table always, but put the plate away, just as it is left at the table, and when the child wants a “piece” give it the food that it left at breakfast. In all probability it will refuse it, but do not give it anything before the next meal if it does not clear the plate. If you make the mistake of filling the child's plate too full of something of which you know it fs not particularly fond, then you should not force it to eat. But if the fault 1s that of the child, you will find that you will ndt have to set up a plate very often. It will learn quite soon not to ask for things “just to be asking.” If the child is sufficiently hungry to need a lunch it will dispose of the leavings in short order, but it will have a little care about filling its plate so full the next time, for a child kes fresh victuals just as well as a grown person, and fs quite as discriminating when it has a chance to be. oe When you notice a whistling, wheezing sound in yor little child soon after it has | ‘The heads of | | gone to bed, though ‘It well on retiring, you can be pretty sure that it has croupy toms, particularly if its skin has grown dry and hot. Always have hive sirup and ipecac in the house if you have little children. The minute you discover croupy symptoms give half a teaspoonful of hive sirup to a child of five, and less or more according to the age. Give without diluting, but give a little wa- ter afterward if you like. Cut a piece flannel as big as your two hands, and a Plece of musiin to go on the outside of it, with strings on the four corners to fasten ground the neck and under the arms to hold it on. Spread over the flannel a copi- ous quantity of vaseline, grate over it half a nutmeg, and drop on five drops of tur- pentine. Rub these well into the vaseline, then grease the child's chest with vaseline or goose grease and just the greased flannel about even with the tops of the shoulders and well over the lower part of the chest. You will find that the child will grow easier in a very short time. His flush will go down and his flesh will get moist. If the croupy symptoms have grown 80 strong that the child is coughing and _toss- ing in misery, send for the doctor. Croup in its worst stages is not a thing to fool away precious time with. While the doc- tor is getting there give the child what Would be a big dose of ipecac for one of his age, make the spice plaster and adjust, then mix a teaspoonful of powdered alum with molasses or sugar, and make it take that. If the doctor does not get there in ten minutes and the ipecac has not made the child vomit, give it another dose quite as large as the first. His only salvation at that stage of the croup is to purge him to get rid of the membrane. After the mem- brane comes up, keep on giving the alum, or if you have not that In the house, give @ mixture of butter and sugar, mixed a3 you would to make hard sauce, to keep the membrane from forming a second -time. If a child is inclined to be croupy, keep it in out of the cool night air, and never let it get its feet wet. If either happens, do not wait for heavy breathing to alarm you, but give it a hot bath, gfease its chest and throat, and give it a little sirup made of melasses and alum, or, if you like, vine- gar in place of the alum. Croup is an aw- ful thing because it works so rapidly. There are instances where children have choked to death in a few moments after the membrane began to form. Keep cool and don’t get frightened to death, because Lot you are not fit to work over your e perfectly - ee we An inquiring friend asked me recently if I favored washed linings for a made- cver gown when the linings had been a per- fect fit. No, I do not. It is impossible to wash Mnings and make them set well in a rew dress. You will ruin the fit of your gown if you try it. The lining to a good dress ought to be of the very best. If you want to economize in linings, rip and wash them, starch them and iron very carefully, so that they will be perfectly straight, and then lay them away to make over in the children’s dresses. In anything where there is no strain they will answer very well. ee © ee 8. You would hardly believe that there is one time better than another during the day for having shoes fitted, but there ts. It is always best to try them in the latter part of the day. The feet are then at their maximum of size. Activity naturally en- larges them or’makes them swell; much standing tends also to enlarge the feet. New shoes should be tried on over mod=r- ately thick stockings; then you can put on a thinner pir to ease your feet if the shoes seem to be tight. It is remarkable what a difference the stockings make. If they are too large or too small they will be nearly as uncomfortable as a pair of shoes that are too tight. You can .wear a smaller pair of shoes in winter than you can in summer. i coe THE NOVEL HEROINE TODAY, A Woman Far Superier to Her Preae- From the Philadelphia Cyl, There is no greater indication of the ad-: vancement of the day than the women one meets in the novels he reads. To be sure, one meets with many women in novels who are coarse beyond description, and un- doubtedly belong to a class to which he would not introduce his mother or sister, and from contact with Whom he would de- cidedly prefer to keep his wife, but, then, one unfortunately meets them everywhere. Besides, these are not the true heroines— | a the acid will cat out ail | {@e¥ are merely creatures who have been raised to a fictitious value for the moment by reason of some prevailing fad, and have managed to foist themselves upon respect- able society just as it not uncommonly happens in real life. But the woman we mean is strong and true and good. She is by no means the namby-pamby creature of half a century ago. She does not sit and fold her hands, disdaining te lift so much as her handker- chief, nor does she faint at the sight of blood like broken lily on the stem,” nor have to be helped over every stone that is more than two inches in diameter. And her appetite! If she had no other virtue her appetite would be her saving grace. She eats three good square meals a day and en- joys them, ard, if necessary, she devours a fourth without a tinge of shame rising to her cheek. A few years ago our heroines were all slender and languid, pale and ethereal, deli- cate and helpless. A spider would throw them into a fit, a cut finger cause them to faint. And these are the women we were supposed to admire, with their “long, yel- Jow curls” and sweet, “amiable” faces. All this indicates most clearly a_ decided change in the opinions of man. Men may deny it and women may flout the idea, but the fact remains that men form the characters of the women around them far more than the reverse. From the Utica Observer. “] witnessed an event on a street car the other day,” sald an uptown grocer, “that amused me. If I had read of it in a news- peper I would have said it was a made-up stery—but in this case I know it to be a fact. A small-sized woman of perhaps fifty years, one of the nervous, quick-spoken sort, coming into the city on the Whites- boro line, paid her fare, and asked for a transfer ticket. The conductor politely told her he could aot give her any transfer. “Yes, you can, too, and you've got to. insist upon it,’ she snapped out. “She was again irformed that the con- ductor had no transfer tickets, but she was persistent, saying: “Yes, you have, too, and I'll report you if you don’t give me cne!” “Of course, she did not get any transfer ticket, although she continued to demand one for several minutes. Then she started off on another tack. The car was near Court street, when she suddenly exclaimed, ‘Well, I'll get off here.” ‘The conductor sounded the bell, the mo- torman shut Off the current and applied the brake, but the track was wet and slippery and the car went several feet before stop- ping. The conductor waited for his spitfire Passenger to leave the car, but she didn’t even leave the seat. Instead,she exclaimed, with flashing eyes: | “"T said I'd get of pack there, and I won't get off here!’ “The conductor smiled and gave the start- ing signal, when up ju! the little wo- man, with, ‘Yes, I guess I will get off here, after all,’ and as she left the car she added: A ad I guess I'm just a little bit cross, ain't “And everybody on the car agreed that she was right, for once inher life, at least.” ————_ cee Dead Cables. Frem the St. Louis Post Dispatch. It is not generally known that of the sev- enteen transatlantic éablés laid only seven are in use. Those who think the tariff for cable messages are high do not think of the immense cost of keeping them in order, and of the losses incurred in the giving out of cables. If a break occurs it is neces- sary to send a vessel perhaps 1,000 to 1,100 miles to take up the parted ends and re- pair them. On land, if a wire is down a man is sent to repair it. To get electricians to a broken cable requires a full comple- irent of ship's officers and crew, from cap- tain to cabin boy, in a veseel equipped for the purpose and maintained at vast ex- pense. Now, the ten cables out of use arc abandoned permanently. They are too badly out of fix to be worth getting in again. It is a conservative estimate to place the cost of laying them at $3,000,000 each. There is $30,000,000 of dead ‘invest- mént. The risk of such losses legitimately makes a charge on the books fn calculating the cost of operating a cable. I Editor—“You say you wrote all these jokes yourself?” Would-be contributor—"“Yes, sir!” Editor—“Then you muaé be as old as Me- thuselab.” Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. Mothers are rapidly awakening to the fact that their children will, in a very short time, return to their school duties, and many are the ways and means devised for the proper equipment of these small people. A number of friends have included in their little girls’ schcol wardrobes a collection of aprons, varying in elaboration and quality of material from the lace trimmed nainsook to the very plain and inexpensive gingham and percale. Under qhese pretty dress protectors may be worn piain Mttle gowns which might, otherwise, be relegated to the regions re- served for halt worn, slightly soiled, or snagged garments. The misfortunes enu- merated being but a few of the many acci- dents which so mysteriously and persistent- ly waylay the small searchers for knowl- ‘The patterns used for these garments a few years ago were anything but attractive, though eminently useful for strictly prac- tical purposes; now, however, the styles are so pretty that what used to be the home- est article of a child's outfit has grown to be considered a very dainty and attractive accessory A Pretty Apron. The first sketch is a pretty design 1 have seen, and is no Jess attractive in dotted per- cale or light gingham than the India linon of which the garment is made. ‘The little garment is fashiored with a square open yoke of piece embroidery, to which the full blouse is attached. The waist band is of embroidery, and the skirt, which should en- tirely cover the dress skirt, is perfectly plain and straight in front, but has side and back gathers. A four-inch hem is the only trimming, and this should b> turned up and daintily stitched on the right side. Of course, small white pearl buttons are used. An effective and quite inexpensive material fo> this design would be pink dotted percale with yoke and band of pink embroidery. =v 4 Suitable for Holiday. ‘The second picture shows a little matd whose apron is almost too “fixy”’ for every- day school wear, but which is admirably suited to “feast days and hoildays,” when something a little more dressy than usual is required. The side forms are cut in princess shape and slightly gored, so as to fit snvgly under the arms, then across the front is a full breadth of linon, daintily shirred at the top. The length of this fron. breadth is several inches shorter than the sides, so that a square opening is left about the neck. The back corresponds exactly to the front, except that at the waist line moderately wide sash ends are sewed into the side seams. These ends should be long and wide enough to tie in generous loops, with ends reaching to the edge of the skirt. A very stylish and altogether decorative feature is the shoulder frills of hemstitched linon, which fall dcwn over half of the dress sleeve, giving an extremely dainty air of completeness and elaboration. Dainty and Stylish. The next is another rather elaborate style, the waist being laid in three wide box pleats and cut with a rather deep square cpening, bordered all around with a tiny hemstitched friil of non. The shoul- der ruffles are generously proportioned, and extend from the belt, the greatest width be- ing directly on the shoulders, from which it tapers, front and back, to the waist- band, which is a double fold of material, simply buttoned at the back. The sash ends reach from the side seams, and should serve for decorative purposes alone, the more substantial fastening being afforded by the buttons. The skirt is quite plain in front, with a slight fullness on each side, and very full in the back. A simple but stylish populer finish is given by the four-inch hem, which must, of course, be turned and stitched on the right side. ‘The fourth design is an unusually pretty ene for a small lady of seven or eight years. It is made with a yoke just deep enough to give space for the a which should simply be bourd with a banc of the mate- riak A deep. V-shaped opening is cut in fro: t; the point reaching quite to the edge of the yoke; in the back the opening is ¢'rcular, and a full ruffle sewed all around, the width tepering in front seams to the point of the V. From this yoke or body the skirt hangs straight and full to the edge of the dress skirt. From just under the arms a sash is drawn and tied in full loops with long ends. The gen- eral style is very quaint and picturesque, and if made of very sheer lawn, with ruf- fle of delicate emi or heavy lace, is quite as pretty for festive asa dainty dress. nd Rough and Ready. The young lady pictured in the next sketch is a little rowdy, and her mother provides aprons which are peculiarly adapt- ed to the rough usage they receive. The illustration gives a very clear idea of the general style, and unless the small -wearer is “dressed” and under the vigilant eye of her mother, they are invariably of light gingham and percale in white grounds with large plaids of pin stripes in dark blue, pink or black. The pattern is a simple Mother Hubbard, with yoke slightly round- ed and large ruffles about the armholes. Quite frequently,in order to vary the monot- my, the ruffles are of embroidery, and a fash confines the fullness in the back. a For Every-Day Wenr. For every-day use this simple, yet very Pretty, design is admirably adapted to the requirements of the average small school girl. Too Old for Aprons. The next ¢rawing shows a pretty cos- tume for the girl who has just outgrown the epron period. Any light-weight woolen goods may be used advantageously, but those showing a smail stripe or figure are, as a rule, Use most serviceable. The pattern is so simple in construction and stylish in effect that any recommendation in its favor seems unnecessary. The pointed yoke, empire girdle, w bands and epaulette edging are of 4 brown velvet, while the rest of the prett: gown is of gokien brown serge, showing at wide intervals a very tiny stripe, or, rather, hair line, of crimson silk. The skirt fits tightly across the front, but Is slightly gored on the sider and drawn fn full gath- ers at the back. Its only decoration is the wide hem, with stitching overlaid by a single row of very narrow brown velvet ribbon. The sleeve ruffles are bordered with velvet ribbon; also the width corresponding to that used on the skirt. The waist ts without other seams than those at the sid and is made on the “modified blouse” plan, which during the past season has been so popular with both young ladies and chil- dren. The sleeves are very full, and reach in one puff from shculder to wrist. + For a Grown Maid., The last cut shows a very graceful drees for a girl of cleven, twelve or thirteen yedrs. The model was developed in dark blue flannel, with trimmings of white cloth overlaid by rows of narrow black silk braid. Tho collar and yoke are cut after the French pattern in one plece, cir- cular in shape and decorated with eircling bands of braid. Following the outline of the yoke is a frili or rather bertha of white, cut as shown in the drawing, and having two rows of braid all along the . The bodice itself is a full blouse gathered into a belt of ribbon, striped white, which trim- ming ia again used for the lower slecve. About the edge of the full round skirt ts 2 four-inch band of white and about two inches higher a strip of the same mate- rial, measuring, however, but one inch an@ a half in width. For everyday wear this dainty trimming is too easily soiled to be very serviceable, but it may give place most effectively to any one of the rich shades of red, which are so generally becoming. Or if other materials be desired the yoke, etc. may be of velvet, silk or of the dress goods itself, trimmed with velvet ribbon or braid several shades darker in color. B. Vv. K. _ MANAGEMENT OF SERVANTS. Importance of msideration on the Part of the Mistress. From the New York Herald. While we have an almost incessant com- plaint of the servant girl, of her shortcoms ings in general and in particular, we hear ttle about the housekeeper's obligation to at least provide her with a few more com- forts and attractions than she has enjoyed. While the scientists are contending over the problem of whether man is greater that his environment, we would do well to as- sume that woman is not, and that a room So arranged and equipped that it will give @ most impressive object lesson in neatness and orde> is a surer method of instruction than all the reprimands and lectures which ‘We are wont to bestow upon the very falli- ble maid of Erin or other immigrant servi-~ tors. : It is an.unaccountable phase of the vaunt~- ed “sisterhood of woman” that in many homes of plenty, or even moderate luxury, the servants’ quarte>s are no more attrac- tive or comfortable than bare white walls and — iron cots can make them. is woman at least, who bas tried it, keeps her servants so long—tuough of te means —that her neighbors believe she has some occult power over them, This hidden power is, however, nothing greater nor less than mere kindness—consileration for the pri- mary needs of those dependent fellow crea~ tures who, if subservient, are also human, Believing it sanitary to have the walls of the servants’ zoom whitewashed every spring, she overcon.es the chilling effect by stirring a small portion of aniline dyeing ly loves color, Sometimes she puts in red powder till the wash is a bril- Nant pink, or ochre, making it pale yellow, cluded a splasher, cretonne covering for cushions in the . large rocker, and scrim cur- each ‘hough a Protestant, she recognized needs other than her own, and hung up a simple ved Madonna; an@ inexpensive evi- ——_+~_—_ SPLIT ON WOMAN SUFFRAGE The Rock om Which a Washingtog Utopia Went to Pieces. From the Spokane Chrontcle. Civil war ts raging in Utopia. The Wash. ington co-operative colony which left Spo- kane jast spring and went down into Klickitat county to teach the wicked, wasteful world 2 Jesson in improved social economy was only made of common mortals after ail, cach with a great deal of human mature to the cubic inch, they Enow it now. 4 ‘The brief accounts in letters to Spokane have pienty of force, but lack deiis of just how the trouble started. Vniy .one thing is sure—woman suffrage did it From the very first there 2 one or two meme bers of the colony who objected to mixing experiments and insisted that the colony's business affairs sh: be trusted to the practiced hands of men. But the majority vverruled them. +s. Jewett and Mrs, Hunsecker were chosen for two of the directors, Another lady was chosen sec- retary. Several were admitted as full members of the colony. but for two or three months there have murmurs of discontent. It hinted by the dissatistied that women didn t know much about business anyway. The worl of the lady secrelary was criticised. The votes of the lady @irectors were freely discussed. And soon some one discovered that when Mr. and Mrs. Hunsecker voted with Mr. and Mrs. Jewett they had a ma- jority of the board of seven directors and could do what they chose. About ten days ago the crisis came. The majority of the society wanted one plan ot work adopted, and the majority of the board favored another. The Muneeckers and Jewetts voted together, and ther plan was adopted. That settled it. Ten families seceded from the colony, an@ began pack- ing their earthly possessions ready to emi- erate. Seven members, five of them offi- cers, remained loyal. These are Mr. and Mrs. Jewett, Mr. aud Mrs. Hunsecker, Mr, and Mrs. Howell and the lady secrewry The split cannot be mended. A division of property has been effected and the se ceders are now looking for a new home Their plan is to go a few miles down th¢ valley, take up sume wild land and form q new colony, with improved by-laws inte which, it is said, no idea of woman suf- frage will be allowed to creep. There may be some troubie over the homestead laws, which recognize only individual setiders, who are under no obligations to share their -land with anybody. But the seceders hope to fix that. Whether the seven faithful members of the old colony will stay together on the farm at the mouth of the White Ssimon remains to be seon. The chances are that they will for a while at any rate. coe DUTIES OF A HOSTESS. A Visitor Sometimes Enjoys Being Let Alone, From the New York Herald. There are homes in which you are always conscious of your boundea duty to conform to rules, You feel that,you must get up to a 6 o'clock break(ast when you have been accustomed to indulse in morning naps un- you cannot doa your wraps and saun- ter out to enjoy an hour or two in an art galiery or a library of rare books, where one wants to invite one’s own soul for com- parionship, out your too solicitous hostess urging you to wait till she has or- dered luncheon so that she may “go with you and tell you all about them.” There are homes where the rules are aot flexible because the makers of them are cast iron people, but there are others where they lack elasticity simply from ihe family’s want of tact in pleasing those whom they are anxious to please. The reaily hospitable house is the one where the guest has been asked to come fm order that she may be given an unusual pleasure, and where, for the time being, all the uncomfortable requirements of her iu- dividual home are set aside for a bohemian freedom and vnaccountability. The young married hostess may chaperon Without monopolizging the callers of her girl guests. She sees these callers fre- quently in general society, and on many occasions for a chat, while the visitor, of whom they ar the precious moments. The visitor, like the edftor, can stand a 004 deal of jetting slone. Of course, if she be what is cailed a “born sighteecr,” one who must be taken froin the crown of the Liberty statue (9 the roof garden crushes, she will not want to be let aione, or to let any one else alore. 7 indifferent about a guest's enjoy- ment is the grossort evidence of li breed- ing and callovs focling, after extending an invitation, but-far too few peopic under- stand the exyuisite spirit of hospitality un- derlying the greet'ng of the Spanish hoat- ess, when she so greciously says, “The house is yours, senorita.” see Language of Finger From the Philadelphia Press. A white spot on the finger nails indicates coming misfortune. Pale, dark nails belong to melancholy people, while gentle, timid, shrinking natures are indicated by broad nails. Round nails indicate a natural siu- | dent and one of Mberality and thought and j feeling. Long, narrow nails show an ambj- tlous and irritable disposition, and simail white nails point t smallness of mentet grasp, obstinacy 2nd coutelt. Red spotted nalbs show a martial, choleric spirit, and thore which grow into the fieth at the. rides and coractrs Indicate a luxurious taste, ladle to develop into lazinces. Very pale huel nails indicate weakness of ie.