Evening Star Newspaper, September 1, 1894, Page 16

16 : THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 1894—EIGHTEEN PAGES. SUMMER GOWNS How Pretty Girls Can Add to Their Attractions AT THE FASHIONABLE RESORTS Costumes That Can Easily Be Re- produced. MATERIALS AND TRIMMINGS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE ORGANDIES c and dimities have * I been especially pretty this year, and all the summer girls have ta- ken care to be well supplied. Perhaps the young girls who were fot so fortunate as to spend the summer months at an ultra- fashionable place would like to see some of the gowns worn by their more fortunate sisters. The first girl wears a pale green dimity, trimmed in white lace and green ribbon, with a broad-brimmed hat of white, pink and dark sea green. The gown is made With full skirt, but slightly gored, and the Waist is also full and made with a large Pale Green Dimity. Square yoke bordered with lace ruffles. ‘These ruffles are very narrow at the four corners of the yoke, but fall in long points over the sleeves and in back and front. At the corners of the yoke are placed little @reen rosettes, and the collar and waist ribbons are of the same shade, which should be bought two or three shades darker than the green in the gown. A narrow lace ruf- fie is placed on the skirt about midway be- tween belt and hem. The white hat is faced with dark green velvet and is trimmed with green ribbon and clover blossoms. ‘The second illustration is of a plain white organdie, and it is garnished with white lace flounces and knots of blue satin ribbon. ‘The wide skirt has a fall of deep lace about it,.on which the bive knots are pla: at regular intervals. It is for evening wear, and is cut low in the neck. The body is made ful! in back and front, and has a full piece let in at the under-arm seam and drawn down to a point in front, where a Fosette is placed. The back is made in the game way. A lace flounce finishes the neck, and this also has blue knots arranged as on the skirt. A bend and bow of the ribbon binds the full puffed sleeve just above the elbow. Pletaresque in Plain White. A picturesque gown made entirely of white is shown next. It is made with a simple gathered waist, full sleeves reaching to just Delow the elbow and a wide, gathered skirt. A large square is cut out, large enough to hang loosely over the shoulders and sleeves. A square piece is then cut from the center of this. It is then fitted to the dress with the corners of the square hanging over the sleeves. In the cut, this square is repre- sented as made of alternate rows cf white lace insertion and white satin ribbon. A wide. white satin ribbon encircles the waist, and the sleeves are also tied with knots of the same. A faunty vachting costume is illustrated by cut No. 4. It is made of fine white flan- nel and is trimmed with dark red of the same material. The bcdy is a tight-fitting one ard is made with red revers that go around the neck and fialf way down the front on either side of the plain white vest. A row of large white pearl buttons is placed on each side of the vest. The full sleeves have small turn-over cuffs of the red, and the high collar is of the same shade. The skirt is a seven-gored one, and is made without trimming, but the lapels, collar and cuffs have one row of half-inch whi wooles braid about them. It is put on plain, with twisted corners. A gray cloth sailor cap is worn with this, and has a narrow dark 1ed band made from silk ribbon. of White Duck. A white duck is drawn in the fifth pic- ture, end will be useful for a variety of oc- casions. The waist is snug and goes under the skirt. It is cut out in a round shape in front, and is to be worn with a chemisette. It 1s double-breasted, and fastens with big pearl buttons. The revers are plain and pointed in front, but are split and turned into ruffles at the shoulders. These rufies continue around the neck in the back. full bellocn sleeves should be worn with cuffs to match the chemisette. It is worn with a belt and fancy buckle. For Cool Days. The sixth gown is designed to wear on cool days among the mountains. It is made of light-weight gray flannel and ts trimmed with mixed blue and red braid and with navy blue collar and belt. The waist fits snugly and has a full vest, which is made with a pointed yoke. The vest has a broad lapel on each side of it and these are edged with three rows of the braid. The lapels are cut pointed and so are the little cuffs, which turn back from the hand. The little round rough straw hat is of a gray shade and has a big blue satin bow on it and rosette-like flowers made from dark red velvet. Blue Organdie. The last cut is an organdie and it is of a flowered pattern in turquoise blue. It is made with a full high necked waist and ruffed skirt. There are lace ruffles over the shoulders, which are ended off by blue rosettes, which have twisted pieces of rib- bon reaching from them to the belt. Rosettes are also placed on the shoulders. The back and front are made alike. This dress is worn with a blue belt, which has a knot of ribbon In front. In the initial cut is shown one of the ever useful silk waists. It is represented as made of white China silk, with a shirred yoke of white silk mull. The silk is gath- ered crosswise in front and formed into knots in the middie. The wide bretelles are cut out In the shape of triangles and are placed four in front and four in back, as shown in the illustration. The full sleeves reach just to the elbow. The back is full cnly at the waist. MARY ELLEN SIGSBEE. ——. Order as a Fetich. From Harper's Bazar. A house tn which there ts no orderly routine is a very uncomfortable place, no dcubt, but too much order may be equally disagreeable and wearing, the nerves of the family bemg rasped as were those of the people who hved with R. Wilfer’s wife. People to whom order is not the means to a desired end, but the end itself, give them- selves and others a grest deal of needless trouble. A chair or a book out of place dis- tresses them. A blur on the window pane drives them to distraction unless they can at once remove it. A meal slightly delayed beyond the appointed hour loses for them its savor. Order {s their fetich. In vain their friends beg them to be phile:ophical, to try elastic- ity us a sort of buffer against annoyances. They shake their heads wearily and keep on fretting. And the fretting marks their foreheads and indents their lips and writes its record on their faces, while husbands and children sigh for a little cheerful hap- py-go-lucky disorder. The daughter of the over-orderly mother {is often, by the law of reaction, an absurdly unsystematic person- age. —————— A Shade Too Accurate. From Truth. Gentleman (to new servant)—“Here Is the Hist of invitations; those underlined are married couples and must be addressed Mr. So-and-so and wife.” Gentleman (next day)—“Did you look after the invitations?” Servant—“Yes, sir. Gentleman—“Did you add the words ‘and wife,” to those sent to married le?” Servant (triumphantly)—“Yes, sir—and I wrote ‘without a wife,’ on the others.” The AN OLD HACIENDA The Practical Eyes of Senora Sara Examine Its Resources. BUT Wf FAILED 10 STAND THE TEST kt ec eR tin An American Wife Guarded by a Jealous Mexican Husband. NOT A KITCHEN STOVE Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. OUR PARDON, SE- nora, but is it the wife of Senor Lane 1 am addressing?” I was sitting by the open door of the din- ing car half asleep, enjoying the lazy depths of a rocking chair fashioned from a@ sugar barrel and i upholstered with oil red calico, with a man’s voice startled me; 1 threw out my hands, and The Evening Star went floating out into the soft morning air, to settle gracefully down over a big cactus at the side of the track. It had scarcely ceased to flutter, when the buckskin horse described a circle around the truant paper and the little ride> bent from the saddle and picked it up as easily as though it might be my handkerchief that had slipped to the floor at his feet. He never drew rein on his beautiful mare at all, but made the second circle, which brought him again to my side. it had all been done so quickly that I had hardly got my eyes rubbed open when tue dark-skinned athiete pressed his knees against the mare's sides, which brought her to her haunches, and threw he- dainty head into the air, tossing her long white inane al- most into my lap. A bis. whit2 sombre1o, ornamented with a tanned rattler’s hide, was lifted high from a hea covered with short black curis and a slender dark han} holding my precious Star was extended to me, with & bow that ended only where the pommel of his big Mexican saddle began. “It is the Senora Lan2?” he questioned me again, as I sut stupidly staring at him and horse, forgetting everything else in my iration of beth. ‘No; 1 am only her guest,” 1 unswered then, “but I will call Mrs. Lane.” can't Imagine what he can want of said my hostess, as she hurriedly set aside the peck of tomatoes she wis prepur- ing for dinner, and smoothed duwn her re- beilious locks, which luoked as though they might be the ghost of her daughter's Kinny blagk cu-is. “What does he look like?" she continued, as she sought in ner dry goods box dressing ease for a clean upron, though she was us neat as wax before. I described the stranger as well as { could while she tied her apron strings, and then turned my at- tention to the tomio2s, while she went to interview her caller, Prompt Response. “What am I to do? That greaser says that there is a young American woman over at Casa Quenemo—den't tney have the most ovtlandish names for houses here?—and he is afraid she is going to die. She Jost her husband; he was killed or poisoned or some- thirg about a month ago, and last week a little baby was born, which died iast mgnt. She has no friends out here and nobody but Mexicans around her, and they don’t know where any of her folks are. This young fellow is foreman of the place—has only been there a month, but he made up lus mind that she ought to have a woman cot her own tongue with her, and asked some of the graders if there was one on ths train; that is how he came to ask for me. I don’t see how I can go. Mr. Lane has got to go to Albuquerque te buy supplies be- fore we go west again to repair tne bridges washed out last night and *we can’t both be away at orce; but I feel as though it was my Christian duty to go.” With an impulsiveness that would have done Dorothy proud, I asked if I could go in her place. The idea delighted her. And so it was arranged that 1 should go to Casa Quenemo, where I remained a whole week. It was a week in whicn the pleas- ure was not unmixed with pain, for the first act after going there was to prepare for burial the tiny baby, that, like a blight- ed snowdrop, lay in its white robes in one of the cavernous rooms. The Barking of Dogs. I found in that mother the best example of the fact that money will not purchase happiness that it has ever been my lot to meet. My picturesque guide and pro- tector, Juan Cordova Chaves, a nephew of the owner of Casa Quenemo, had a buck- board ready to convey me to the ranch, and turning his beautiful mare over to the peon, he took the lines himself, and off we went over the velvety grass, past the cool flowing spring, and sharply around the jut- ting rocks, fnto the grounds immediately surrounding the commodious hacienda of Casa Quenemo. At the big barred door, which swung open to and through which we drove the spirited horses into the spacious patio, we were met by the keeper of the hounds, with rine fine ones in his wake, which he was taking to some other part of the ranch. To a question from Senor Chaves, as to why he was removing them from the kennels, he said that the women about the Casa objected to their vemaining because they howled so at night, and that was a very ill omen! I thought it was; I had tested it the night before and found that I cuuld not sleep, and that to me is always an ili omen. “They howled when ths master was away, and then the word come that he was dead by foul play, they howled again, and the child died. Last night they howled again, and the women declare they will not stay tonigat unless the dogs are taken away, the young mistress will be the go. They are now petitioning the Holy Virgin to intercede and save her from the curse that rests upon Casa Quenemo.” Then, crossing himself, he went on his way. Senor Chaves shrugged his shoulders and said, with a smile, that showed most of his fine teeth under his drooping mus- tache, “you see my people are very super- stitious.” Senor Chaves talked but little, but I liked him because he was so kind and teader of the poor little woman who was so far from all her friends. Mexican Housekeeping. “God has not forgotten me!” she cried with a tearful imitation of a smile, when Senor Chaves kad taken me to her side and then left us alone. “Oh, you don’t know how it thrills my heart to hear my mother tcngue spoken by a woman. I have hunger- ed for it as cne who is thirsty longs for water. I have been ill so long—so long, and now,” and then che broke off in a weak cry, that told more tian words how she had suffered in mind and body. I kissed her and let her ery. “Just clap your hands in the epen door and some one of the servan‘s will come and show you to a room,” she said when she had regained a little composure and told me all her grief and trouble, and I had told her who I was and how I had chanced to come to her. I obeyed orders, and standing in the doorway which opened into the patio, I clapped my hands as Senators and Con- gressmen do when they want a page. Im- mediately there appeared from the next room a comely woman of perhaps forty years, who spoke a kind of patois which she seemed to think was excellent English. But had I not been fairly familiar with Spanish we would have made small progress without an interpreter. She led me to a reom near by, opening also on the patio—it is useless to keep repeating that, however, for they all opened that way. One day I counted twenty-sever: doors opening on the patio. Each door represented a room, and no two rooms of the twenty-seven opened into each other. Think of keeping house in an establishment like that. Without closets, without bath room, pantry, ceilar, attic or basement! There are plenty of servants, one for everything that is to be done, but they have no idea of how or when to do their work. A servant is never “yelled" at here, and there are no bells to call them. The hand clapping process is the only summons neces- sary. There is always a servant around to answer. He may not be the right one for the particular duty in hand, but he claps his hands, and is answered by some one else, and in due process-of time you get the servant who is assigned,the work that you want done. It is almost as tedicus as stop- ping at a hotel, where the electric bells are always “just out of order.” As to the Servants, Nobody ever raises His voice about the house in this country; it is extremely ill- bred to do so. What a pity that we cannot import that idea, even with a heavy duty on it. Anything like an electric bell would stamped the whole retinue, I imagine ;they would think “diablo” was after them, sure. The house servants here are very clean looking. The men wear white cotton trous- ers and shirt. Thei women wear white or ight full skirts of musiin or calico, with a sacque waist and flowing sleeves, two or three stiifly starched white skirts, white stockings and black slippers strapped over the instep. They have small feet and hands and are languidly graceful in their move- ments. I don't know how it would be if they tried to speak our hard guttural words, but in their own rhythmic soft voweled Spanish their voices are music personified. In all my rambles over the twenty- seven rooms I never saw anything that looked like a wash room, and no_para- phernalia for washing; so I asked Lisa one day how she managed to keep her dresses so white. She took me out to the little stream in the patio back of the house, where it flowed through a magnificent wall- ed orchard, and some of the women were washing the household linen. The bed of the stream, which formed a pool there, and was brought from the spring in the arroya, was rocked in the bottom, and into this the clothes were dumped, Jike trash from a cart. The women were lazily stamping them with their bare feet, and pounding them cn the rocks, rubbing them with the soap bark root, which is dug from the earth anywhere in that section, and sousing them round in the clearer water just above the pool before wringing a garment out. When they had worked a few moments, theystopped to light cigarettes and smoke and chatter, then they went languidly back to the pound- ing. No soap, no hot water, no blueing; and yet those clothes were as white as the driven snow! I don’t know how they do it, Tam sure. Ignorant of Cooking. The yellow-haired little American woman, with her preternaturally big, brown eyes, was dying of homesickness. She had run away from schcol—the Cunvent of the Sa- cred Heart in St. Louls—and married the elderly man, who was passionately devoted to het and correspendingly jealous, Two years betore he had brought her to his se- cluded home, and since that time she had not looked upon an American woman's face until I went within her horizon. Her parents had cast her off, and her jealous husband finally prohibited all male visitors to the hacienda, as they looked with too approving eyes on his charming wife. Slowly but surely she was getting ready to fill the vacant place beside Senor Cordova's four other wives, when a jealous ranchero, on whose reservation he was accused of poaching, put an end to his life, and he himself went to make up the quintet In the Cordova cemetery. Senora Cordova began to mend the next day after my arrival. She wanted some home cooking. +,“I don't know anything about cooking,” she said sadty. “Mamma thought it was not one of the accomplishments necessary for a girl who had plenty of money, and there are no conveniences here for cooking as we do in the states. I am nearly starved for a pte:e of home-made bread! Oh, you don't know what an awful thing it is to want bread!” Now think of that, will you? An Ameri- can girl of fair, average sease starving for bread In the midst of wealth, Just because she does rot know how to make it herself! A mother whe will reara daughter in euch ignorance is guilty, of a crime. That was not all, however. I found that Chaves didn’t know how to Jo anything A fine chance she, had for a happy life among a lot of Mexicans, who hate every- thing American, anyway! I sent over to Mrs. Lane for a loaf of her deliciois bread and some yeast. When these arrived I went to © place, the Mexicans call a kitchen! uch a place gs It was! It looked to me to be as big as the Senate chamber, but of course it wasn't. The ceiling was lest in the gloom up abeve where uncovered log rafters made hiling places for ull man- ner of creeping things The bare, black mud walls had been just as black and bare for a century or more. Some rude tables stood around the walls, and a few three- legged stools, and some sheives against the wall held a lot of cooking utensils. These seemed to comprise the furniture. A Meatcan T asked for the cook stove, but nobody “sabed” my meaning. I made them urder- stand at last, and they pointed suggestively | to the two far corners. Through the “dim, places, built of adobe. The smoldering fire was soon blazing with pinon wood, and I made Senora Cordova some toast, and blis- tered my face. Some e pte may like to cook at a fireplace. 1 aot. After I had satisfied the cravins ny patient and made her comfortabie J some bread and put it to ralse, muc © edification | of the half-dozen women w.. stood about, and that evening they editie! me by show. ing me how to bake it In the little conical oven of earth just outside the kitchen door. Mexican bread would make good armor plates. ‘That kitchen was a fair sample of the Mexican genus. ness, but from custom. They do not like American innovations, and will not have them. So it is with their whole household system. In the great rooms, fifty feet long and twenty feet wide, furnished in mahog- any and rosewood, with rare tapestry up- holstering, the ceilings, twenty feet high, will be bare, with the time-stained log rafters beautifully carved, and the walis whitewashed right on the adobe. The floors of Casa Quenemo are beautifully tiled with pink hard bricks, worn smooth, and made right there on the ranch a hundred years ago. The rugs—there are no carpets-—are all of orlental manufacture. The library is extensive and valuable, and there are rich treasures of art everywhere. bred! Senora Cordova felt it in every fiber, and how happy she Was when, in answer to my message, she got one saying that her mother would be with her soon! “I have been so wayward,” she sald re- gretfully; “but surely my punishment has been my atonement. I will be so good to my mother now.” Truly experience is a bitter teacher. SENORA SARA. From Harper's Bazar. ‘Telegraph tolls are moderately light, as a rule, but sometimes they appear to be ex- cessive, as in the case told some years ago of a Manchester man whose wife was going abroad, He asked her to telegraph him a word or two, letting him know of her safe arrival in London. In a few hours he received the following message, marked collect: “Dear George—Arrived here safely at fif- teen minutes after six. The train was due at six, but we were delayed fifteen minutes while en route. Had a perfectly lovely journey. Do not worry about me; I will get along all right. And take good care of yourself. this weather. Be sure you have the house open and aired as often as possible. Re- member what I told. you about your socks and shirts. Do not forget to keep the base- ment door locked. Write every day, I am sure I shall have a lovely time. So good of you to let me go. You must come over after me soon. “For ever and ever yours, MAMIE.’ An.hour later Mamie was pained to re- ceive the following geply to her “word or two:” cs “Do not wire frém Switzerland. EOR Am ruined if you do. G z.” soe Told by a Photographer. From the Louisville Courier-Journal. This Is a photographer's story: “About a year ago a young man employed in a rail- road office came in and had his picture taken. About the same time a beautiful young woman from an interior town came in and had hers taken also; both left the ler desiring me to send them to their ad- cee as soon as finished. In the book my clerk put the initial of the first name and wrote the surname in full. It happen- ed both had the same last name; the young man’s name was John H- and the young woman's Julia H When the pictures were mailed there was a mistake, the young man getting the young woman's pictures, and vice versa. “Now, out of this incident quite a love affair has grown, the young people having falien in love with one another at sight of the pictures. They corresponded for sev- eral months. Some time ago the young man bought a solitaire diamond ring, and now he has ordered his wedding suit. That is what I call a first-class romance. The best of it all is that the couple are well suited in every respect an] be.h are of good tam- ilies.”” Senora | but embro'der and paint and play the piano. } | religious” light I discovered two corner fire- | Not bare from penurious- | But ob, the tedium of such a life for a woman gently | Be so careful about taking cold | HOUSEHOLD HINTS Many Matters of Interest to Every Good Housewife. ONE CAUSE OF HEADACHE ae SE ES, Pay as You Go and Avoid Running a Bill. TEACH CHILDREN ORDER —— ae Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. Not Icng since I was calling upon a friend who complained of suffering from terrible headaches, but could rot divine their cause. as she was in moderately good health. She said that her eyes paired her so that she could no longer read with any comfort. I suggested that her glasses might be the cause. She acted upon the suggestion, and found that wearing glesses unsuited to her eyes was the actual cause of her suffering. I mention this because f am confident that a great many men and women suffer from headache and sore eyes who would see the trouble vanish quickly enough if they would secure glasses or have those they are wear- ing chenged. The eye is a delicate instru- ment, and it does not take much to hurt it permarently. es ee The best of all rules for successful house- keepirg, and making beth ends of the year meet, is “pay as you go.” Beyond all coun- tries In the world ours is the one in which the credit system is the most abused and most used. Pass books are the bane and pest of domestic economy, a perpetual plague, vexation and swindle. Abused by servants at the store and house, disputed constantly by housekeepers and dealers, they are temptations to all parties to do wrong. But the worst of it is that house- keepers are tempted to order what they have not the means to pay for, and when the time comes for settlement they are straightened. A family can live respectably on @ very moderate sum if they take the cash in hand and buy where they can buy to the best advantage. Then they will be careful first to get only what is recessary. Extra comforts will be had if they can af- ford them. Lut it is a bad policy to buy on credit. No wise dealer sells so cheaply as for cash. es 2 © © oe Wall paper samples are deceptive. Never select from them. They will make your reom look smaller, quite often, though they had not that effect tn the sample. Select from the roll and have several strung out at ghee, so that you may get the full ef- ect. se © we A short woman thinks she looks very |much taller for wearing a long-waisted | dress. She does in her very short mirror, | but she forgets that what she adds above | She cuts off below, and did she look in a | long pler glass she would sze that by ap- | parenUly shortening her skirts she loses far | more in height than she gains. The shorter the women, the shorter should be her waist | and the longer her skirt to give her height. Long lines from the shoulder to the foot sive height, while horizontal lines crossing | the figure shorten. it. . . As soon as the babies are old enough to ask for and get their own toys and plays from the box or closet they are old enough | to be taught to put them away. Make them feel ashamed of leaving their 8 about | for “mother” to put away. It wiil require a | mine of patience to make them understand that they are as well able to pick up as to scatter, and for a long time you will find them heedless and careless. Impose some light fine or discipline for breaking over the rules you have made. Do not expect to succeed the first time of telling, or the fifty- first, or the hundred and first. Line upon line is the only way to manage children. Perseveranc? will conquer in the end. Your child will acquire the habit of order and be the better equipped for the battle of life. ‘Children can be taught to take pride in | Keeping their little possessions in order, and the mistake we make in their education is | in not giving sufficient weight to the fact that constant repetition is necessary to im- press firmly upon their minds anything we wish to teach, and that habits are formed by successive daily agis. | It is not really necessary to varnish an oil painting, and if it is done it should not be until the painting is several months old. A spirit or copal varnish should be used, and it should be, carefully applic’. . | To do ornamertal frosting, draw one of the smal! glass syringes fuil of the icing and arrange it in any design you like. An- | other way is to fill a cone of thick white | paper and let the icing run through, but It Is not as successful as the other way. . | If you want the new paint on your house | to be neat and clean as well as lasting, | have it done this autumn, instead of wait \ing til spring. Paint put on in the fa’ lasts much better, anJ is not spoiled by the little gnats that are so troublesome in the early spring. eos ‘A well-bred young lady is always ready to show attention and deference to an elder | lady, and if she sees that the lady does not recognize her, it is her duty to speak first, because young people grow out of the recognition of elderly people very fast, | and they are always pleased to receive at- tention from them. Indeed, a young girl will show her innate kiadness of heart by the little attentions she pays to her elders more than in any other way, both in gen- eral soc.ety and in the home circle. Cour- tesy to the aged should be the first rule of life, and you should shun both men and women who say that they have “ho use for the aged or for children.” Such people will bear a lot of watching. . . . A grease eradicator is one of the articles that every housewife likes to have around. Here is ene which is said to have made the fortune of one man before the secret was given to the world. Two ounces of ammo- nia, one ounce of castile soap shavings, one quart of salt water, one teaspoonful of salt- | peter. Stew them up and—there you are, | as the patent grease cleaner man always says. se © @ If you want to use a damp duster, a large | scft sponge makes the best one imaginable. It should be moderately fine and perfectly free from grit. Dampen it, or rather soak it in a pan of water, and then wring it as dry as possible; never try to use it with much water in it. When you are dusting, free the sponge of the dust quite often by rinsing thoroughly in the clean water. When you have finished using, wash it free of all dust and grit and hang in the sun to dry. If a sponge is not cared for it soon | Sets soft and squashy and full of particles | of grit, and then it will not be fit for any- thing. Some housekeepers always wash windows with a sponge. It is an excellent cleaner—if it is kept clean {itself—but it will streak the window glass unless you wash it out every few moments. ie a ee The following ‘is Called a® “mock milk bath” and wouldn't be a bad thing to try if it was not named at all: Make up a dozen cheese cloth bags about a_ foot square. Fill them with oatmeal and pure white castile soap shaved fine—two-thirds | oatmeal and one-third soap. Put in the | bag a teaspoonful of borax and some orris root or laveaider flowers, or anything of that kind that you like as a perfume. Have about twelve gallons of water for your bath, and make it pretty warm. Use the bag for a wash rag, and you will come out of each bath feeling as though you had the skin of a baby. Of course one bag will only do for one bath, and the con- tents will then have to be thrown away, but the cheese cloth can be washed and used till it breaks in, holes. Try this on your bangs if they positively refuse to stay curled: Wash them twice a week in soft water in which is one part alcohol and dry them carefully. That is about the best and safest thing to keep them free from olly matter. The one who uses it, however, must remember that this will have a tendency to make the hair a Uttle Mghter. Hair dressers moisten the fringe with diluted bay rum before curling. Use a moderately hot iron. If you use an fron that {s very hot, it will deaden the life in the hair, and in a little while you will find that your hair will not stay in curl at all, and that you will have to let it “rest up.” An fron that will not “siz” is best. Wrap the hair around it and let it stay there till it does not feel in the least moist, and when you release the hair Zou will find that the curls will be soft and — . . . . . Try kissing the little ones when they have @one right, or you a favor, and then when they disobey refuse to kiss them for a stat- ed time. This plan often works well with children upon whom whipping does not seem to have the slightest effect. There ure children in the world that whipping does not improve. The more you whip, the more stubborn they get. They can, however, be reached through their love, and if you withbold approbation from them, you can more easily win than if you punish by whippirg. But, however you undertake to punish, carry it to the end. Once giving in before you have conquered will be much worse than never having attempted to cor- rect. a DEATH OF THE LAST MAN. Scientists Tell of the Ways in Which Human Life May Expire. The St. Louis Republic has collected the opinions of a number of scientists con- cerning the probable fate of the last man. They say: “The surface of the earth is slowly but surely diminishing; all the landed portion will be submerged and the Jast man will be drowned. The ice is gradually accumulating at the north poie and slowly melting away at the south. Eventually the earth's center of gravity will suddenly change and the last man will be crushed by the rush of movables that will quickly glide over its surface. There is a retarding medium in space causing a gradual loss of velocity in all of the planets. The earth, when her revo- lutions Gnally cease, will be drawn nearer and nearer to the sun until the last man a literally roasted off the face of the earth. Beginning with the year 3000 A. D. hu- manity will commence to retrograde, and by the end of the year 1,000,000 man will be no larger and have no more intelli- gence than a plant louse. In that event there will be no “last man. The sun's fires will gradually burn out and the temperature cool; in consequence the earth's glacial zones will enlarge, driving shivering humanity toward the equator. At last the habitable space will lessen to nothing and overcrowded hu- manity will be frozen in a heap. 2° How the Helena Mines Were Fou From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat. The mines which built the city of Helena in Montana were discovered by a party of four prospectors who were on their way to a well-known camp in the Kootenai country. Learning that the diggers in that quarter had failed they turned aside to prospect in another direction, and for some time wandered about, digging holes here and there, but finding nothmg that they worth working. About noon of day of July, 1864, they arrived on the site of the city of Helena, halted for dinner and to rest their horses. They had tested the stream now known as Last Chance creek, but found nothing, and were not disposed to make any further investi- gation, deeming their labor useless, Dinner over, their horses were saddled, when one of their number walked down to the stream to get a drink before mounting. From mere force of habit he began scratching the gravel with his hands, when to his astonishment he drew out a nugget as big as a gold dollar. He shouted to the rest, who were already on their way, to return with the pans, and showed them his discovery. At first incredulous, they were disposed to disregard his request, but the sight of the nugget changed their minds. In short order the horses were un- saddled and a hole dug. A hundred dol- jars’ worth of gold was taken out in twenty minutes. It was exactly the place they were looking for. They immediately set- tled and located claims; in a short time news of their success spread abroad. Hun- dreds of other miners flocked to the spot and a mining camp of unprecedented rich- ness was established. The city of Helena grew up on the spot, and it is sald that one of the banks of that city is situated on a portion of the first claim located the lucky quartet. It is also said that their names were Cowan, Crab, Miller and Stan- ley, though to what extent each profited by general the discovery is not certain. As a thing, the men who discover a rich district are not the men who are ultimately en- riched by it, and it is possible that in this case the rule held good. an How Men's Fashions Are Designed. fap Take the potato masher, the bread plate, a collar box, the kitchen tongs, Dorothy Angelina’s garden trowels, the gas lighter and great grandmother's sugar tongs. Put them together. Call in @ fashionable tailor, and you have a— = ee Perfect little dude! Hall's Hair Renewer renders the hair lostrous and silken, gives it an even color and enables ‘women to put it up in a great variety of styles. =| DIAMOND CUTTING Importance of the Industry Increased by the Tariff Law. AMERICAN WORKMEN THE MOST EXPERT A Large Proportion of Diamonds Are Cut Abroad. EXTENT OF THE nilipent Written for The Evening Star. T= NEW TARIFF BUSINESS law will give a great impetus to the dia- mond-cutting indus- try in the United States. Already one foreign house has transferred its busi- ness to New York, and others may be expected to follow now that there is @ difference of 25 per cent in favor of the uncut stone in the laying of tariff duties. It is an extraordin- ary fact that for many years the American @iamond cucters have had the reputation of being the best workmen in the world, and that many fine stones, which have been cut abroad, have been recut in this country to improve their appearance and increase their value. But with oxly 10 per cent protection for the industry it das languished, and last year American importers received only $902,075 worth of uncut stones, er rough diamonds; of which $357,439 worth were glaziers’ diamonds, and $74,255 worth were in the form of diamond dust. That left ouly $444,137 worth of diamonds sent to this country for cutting, while the total importation of diamcnds was worth $10,- 197,505, There had been some complaint, recently, from the diamond cutters cf New York— the workmen—that men from Holland were coming here under contract with the own- ers of new diamond establishments. Here- to come to America. The average pay of diamond cutters in New York is the same as the pay of diamond cutters in Amster- dam—#2 a carat. And the bench expenses of the Dutch workmen are less. An artist among diamond cutters might have found it profitable to come to this country, be- cause the American public demands a much better class of work than is done men, however, do not earn double as much as their fellows who receive 2 a carat; for work much more slowly. Experts in This Country. But, even af the new tariff should induce @ great many workmen to come to Amer- ica from Amsterdam and London, it is like- ly that there will be plenty of work for them and for the American workmen, too, Diamond cutting is not-learned in a day, and we will need a supply of diamond cut- ters from abroad to do the work of the new establishments which are bound to spring up in the cities. Unfortunately, the diamonds found in this country are freaks, and diamond mining is not known here; so there are no domestic stones of Production to give the diamond cutters occupation. - Heretor: the diamond cut- ters of the United States have not done business enough to warrant them in main- taining branch houses in London, and they could uot enter into the keen competition among purchasers there, take advantage of ficctuations in the market, and buy at a slight reduction large parcels of uncut gems ly offered for immediate sale. So the dang cent protection has not availed them m Nevertheless the business of @lamond cut- ting has very steadily of late years. A Recent Industry. The importance of this industry and its Possibilities are well illustrated by the statement that from 1868 to the present day we have imported more than $190,- 000,000 worth of diamonds; and that the value of these, if imported in the rough, would have been less than $95,000,000, Therefore, the people of the United States have paid $100,000,000 in twenty-six years to the diamond cutters of and their employers. In the same period there have been imported into the United States less than $7,000,000 worth of rough diamonds. The dtamond-cutting industry of the United States is only a quarter of a century old. The first diamond was cut in this country in 1869. But it was three years later that the first regular establishment for cutting diamonds was established in Boston. Cutting. Diamond cutting ts not alone an industry; it is an art. Many of the best cutters are known the world over; their diamonds are named and catalogued and ar easily recog- nizable by any one who is familiar with the diamond trade. Many men will go down in history as the cutters of certain famous diamonds. The art in shaping the stone ts to give it the most attractive appearance at the least sacrifice of weight. An average of more than & per cont of the weight of diamond is lost in cutting. But a recut- ting will often more than double a stone's valve. The recutting of the Pitt diamond ting was $15,000. As to the increase in the value of the gem from the t in its appearance, that was enormous. It was sold in 1717 for $0,000, and tt is estimated |. Being unique they cannot be valued at so much a carat, The first operation in handling the rough diamond is splitting or cleaving. The stones must be split with the veins and great care Is needed ip this part of the work, as a mis- take is costly. The cleaver is a general. He studies the field of action, and deter- mires on a plan of attack, according to the structure of the particular stone in hend. Then he fastens the stone in a bed of cement and marks the proposed line of cleavage with a dull diamond. The line fs deepened with a sharper diamond and made still deeper with a diamond of razor edge. Then a steel knife is laid tm the line and struck a quick sharp blow. This breaks the stone into two parts. With the cleaver Tests the responsibility for getting the greatest number of gems from a single Stone. He is the best-paid workman in the cutting establishment. Use of Machines. From the cleaver the stones go to the cutter. The old method of cutting was by rubbing two stones together—in fact, until 1872 diamond cutting was done entirely by hand.By the mechanical process the stone it comes from the cleaver is put in the chuck of a lathe and there it revolves at great speed, coming in contact with the face of #nother stone, by which ft is brought down to the desired shape. This machinery can- not be used in handling the very small gems. They must be fastened in beds of cement and rubbed by hand. From the cutter the stone goes to the setter and policher, who work together, The polisher indicates how he wants a stone set. The setter beds it in cone of moiten lead, with the selected face ex- posed. Each setter works for five or six polishers an1 each polisher handles four tones at oae time; so the setter has a usy time. When the lead fas hardened around the stone, the polisher puts it on his wheel, which revolves at the rate of 2,300 times’ a minute. This wheel is an emery wheel and it is fed with diamond dust The importation of diamond dust is quit a large business. Each polisher has four stones on his wheel at one Ume. As fast as one face is polished, the stone is handed back to the setter, who resets it with another face ex- posed, and it is returned to the polisher. Each stone is reset twenty-five or thirty times. When all of the faccts heve been Polished, the stone is returned to the cut- ter, who finishes it off. There is no reason why the United Stater under the new law should not excel the countries of Europe in the number of dias monds handled in the rough. GEORGE GRANTHAM BAIN,