Evening Star Newspaper, July 14, 1894, Page 14

14 DRESSES OF ROYALTY The German Empress in the Role of Fashion Leader. PECULIAR METHODS OF The Effort Made to Secure Ex- aterial and Design. clusive THE CAST-OFF GARMENTS Written for The Evening Star. HE GERMAN empress buys annual- l ly one-hundred even- ing gowns and state dresses, twice as many carriage and visiting costumes and about one hundred and fifty demi-toilets and house dresses. The kaiser on being petitioned during his stay in Constantino- ple to buy a roll of silk beautifully em- broidered ana gold-threaded, suitable for morning wrappers, said, “No; no, that won't do at all; you must remember that my wifs always has half a dozen boys dangling at her skirts.” I have seen some of the imperial children rushing from the tea table in the nursery as their mother was on the point of attend- ing some full-dress function, and maul her over with greasy little paws, and when her majesty visits her little ones in their cribs, at the conclusion of a court festivity, bringing them sweetmeats, they usually scramble out of bed, all trying to sit on her knees at once. “These nightly visits cost sometimes from 5,000 to 10,4 marks,” said one of the royal Wardrobe women to me, “but, of course, what is pie to the purveyor, is bread, at least, for her majesty’s body attendants.” ‘The meaning of this remark will explain it- self later on. Once In a great while the newspapers fontain notices announcing that her ma- je has called at one or another great es- blishment and has ordered certain pur- ehases to be made. These visits are of the @tratagem order, entered upon and heralded to enliven trade. Perhaps in some instances gn wnusuaily large personal bill has some- thing to do with the act of condescension. Peculiar opping Methods. I em not repeating, or reasserting, the gally rumors akout Victoria Augusta's @mormous drapers’ bills, set afloat from time to time. There are no such bills threatening her peace, as we will sce. What follows does not apply to the em- press alone, but to ail the princesses of the impertal and royal house, who are subject to the same etiquette governing their re- lations with trade and tradespeople. The royal women of Germany and Prussia have runnirg accounts with certain big houses, which are regulated according to cast-iron rules yt the end of each quarter by their court marshal. It may be that in a par- ticularly busy season, including weddings and visits to foreign countries, the debit side of one or anvther princess swells to unusual proportions, and that, as a matter of policy, the royal debtor concludes it would be a gracious act to give the dealer the benefit of a tremendous advertisement that costs her nothing—but as to shopping im a store, visited under taese conditions, that is entirely out of :he question. Mer majesty or the princesses wilt buy dress materials on such occaswns, Dut only such that have been submitted” and actually spoken for beforehand. The mode of proceedings for replenishing the royal wardrobe is us follows: When a dealer in dry gcods, in wraps or linens, re- ceives a consignment of new goods that are of such order of perfection as to warrant an offer in the “all highest quarters,” as the officis! jargon has it, he notifies his royal customer, including description of models and sometimes samples. Any mer- ehant of good standing may do s0, no matter if he be a “purveyor to the court” cr pot. There are many doing business vw'th her majesty, for instance, who have mver been privileged to announce that fact to the world. If the recipient of the supplication (for the offer must be in the form of such) likes the proposition, she sends the chief mistress of the wardrobe, or a lady-in-weiting, to the store to examine the stuff in the piece and if possible en costume. If the draper deals in dress ma- terial only the buyer will require him to drape a stand with the stuff. If he selis “facons” he is ordered to dress up his cos- tumer’s lay figure, modeled in every detail after the anatomy of the original. Must Be Exclusive. ‘The empress’ messenger has, In most eases, only general instructions, but, of course, knows her mistress’ taste and pe- euliarities to the dotlet on the I. To win the good will of such an emissary the sale is half affected. This is signified by an order given to send the stuffs, or mod- els, to the palace at a stated hour and day. ‘The “command” to do so is always given in writing, on a blank card, issued by the court marshal’s office and filled out by the lady who does the shopping. A mer- chant, having secured this illuminated and sealed pasteboard, repairs with it at once to the castle, where, before this prospective owner's secretary, he makes affidavit as to the origin of the goods, to the length of time he has it in hand, and furthermore, swears that it has never been offered to any other party, especially to none of the other princesses, or ladies of the court. If the article ts intended for a state robe, the dealer must likewise be able to swear that no other sovereign lady owns a gown of this same material, or is liable to wear it previous to its introduction at the Ger- man court. The circumstantialities of t. dealer's examinations before her majesty’s secretary are as ludicrous as they are thorough; the Baron Von der Recke, who is charged with this duty, takes the matter very seriously and usually calls in a lady- in-waiting to assist him in the minor de- tails. “I_ would rather forego selling a yard of stuff to her majesty or the princesses for year than foist upon either goods that are not entirely original,” said one of Ber- lin’s great drapers to me. The late Empress Augusta,noted for her intelligence and fair- ness in other things, once dismissed a princess visiting at her court because, at some festivity, her grace wore a wrap of the same pattern and material as the ma- jesty herself. A Council on Dresses. The stuff or “facon” having found fa- vor with the buyer's representative, and its originality having been sworn to, the royai approval must be obtained. At the stipulated time the goods are sent to her majesty’s boudoir, with prices attached. There is a lay figure, as in the draper’s shop, and the same evolutions are gone through In the palace as there. More fre- quently, however, at the kaiserin’s court one of the wardrobe women, who resem- Dies her majesty in every feature of figure, is called In. Before trying on a dress, wrap or drapery she dons a muslin cover that entirely hides ner ord ry attire. The em- press Is very particular in that regard. She wants to satisfy herself with her own eyes that the cover Is fresh from the laun- dry, if not new. ‘The stuffs being finally selected and the price agreed upon, the chief mistress of the court and that of the robe and the head talloress hold a council of state under the presidency of her majesty. Dresses are fever bought ready made for wear, but only as mode!s or facons to be returned, when the costume fashioned after them has been worn and discarded by the purchaser. The eonference is to decide about alterations in the criginal design, about suitable color tombinations, and, above all, about the ac- eessories to the toilet. len, when all that has been settled, her majesty insists one of her intimates going to London, Birts, Rome or Vienna to find out if nothing ilar is in posession of royalties, ladies of e aristocracy er actresses there. Victorta Auguste, though of quiet and un- uming el ‘ter, has, it seems, a tower- ambition to be the leader of fashion ip own country, if not in the world, and THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 189. -EIGHTEEN PAGES. the kaiser upholds her in this, hoping there- by to benefit trade. The connection between the court of Berlin and England is so inti- mate now as to preclude any danger of dress supremacy from that quarter; the Vienna court is almost in a state of per- petual mourning. St. Petersburg derives its fashions from Berlin. Queen Marguerite alone is to be feared as a rival. And she is a formidable one, in respect to good taste as well as in lavishness. A Royal Tailor Shop. The head tailoress herself is usually sent to Paris, where she maf prosecute her original mission, while at the same time looking out for novelties in the way of orna- ments. These preparations demand, of course, considerable outlay in money and time, but as they apply usually to a dozen or more costumes at once, the average is not So great compared with the advantages or alleged advantages aimed at or derived. ‘The term of chief tailoress should be ex- plained. There are a number of women in eerlin and Potsdam bearing the title of “Tailoress to her Majesty,” but their ser- Vices are required only at special occasions. The kaiserin has a tailor shop of her own, where she employs a dozen to fifty expert cutters and sewers, under the direction of a practical worker, with whom a trusty “wo- man of the bed chamber” is associated. A lady-in-waiiing superintends the whole. As far as possible the empress’ toilets and the clothes of the younger children are manufactured in the home shop. Only when Special occasion demands it, a tailoress “by appoimtment” is called in. _ "Das Atelier” (studio), a little porcelain sign bearing that name is always found on one or more of the apartments occupied temporarily by the empress at home or abroad. The doors are so iabeled to hide from outsiders the secrets of the royal toilets, at the same time leading th€ occasional passer by to believe a drawing or art school 48 established there under her majesty’s very eyes. The sewing girls and utters are ail very ladylike, young and middle aged women, dressed in black, with snowy cults and coiars. Among them are many preach- ers’ widows and relatives of trusted court functionaries. Aside from ability in their profession, they must, before securing an engagement, eatisty the court marshal of tneir strictly domestic habits. They must not have acquaimtances among other tailoresses, and must consider their auties entirely con- idential. As Trade Promoters. The empress will not submit to having her measure taken,since a lay figure of her own has been modeled by an Italian sculpturess, duplicates of which are in possession of cer- tain modéstes. An increase or decrease in the bust measure, for instance, is ascertain- ed by self measurement, and then noted on the model. Dresses, wraps, etc., have to be perfect from the start, and if any small al- terations are necessary the wardrobe wo- man has to attend to them. ° 1 should have said before, that the sew- 4ng machine is an unknown quantity in tne empress’ tailor shop, and that none of the ether royal ladies permit any but hand work on theic garments. ‘The tasloresses “by ap- vointhient’ to the princesses named are not allowed to have any other customers, and a breach of confidence would be toliowed by anstant withdrawal of patronage. ‘The first year after ascending the throne the empress “confiscated” all “facons” for Winter Wraps, with elaborate braiding. For two inontns ner braided manties anu jacn- <ts were the wonder, the envy and the talk of the fashionable world. Then learning of the great distress prevailing among the embroiderers, the goud empress seut word to the manufacturer that he could have the use of the models without delay, provided he took up the wholesale manufactory at orce. By this act of generosity nearly 15,000 braiders secured work during the hardest time of the year, Victoria Auguste herseif engaging fifty to sixty extra hands. History tells of queens starting or reviving certain fashions (of wearing lace, for in- Stance) in order to alleviate the distress among certain industri but whoever heard of woman giving up an exclusive bit of finery for commen use, knowing that the act would deprive her of the pleasure and satisfaction of wearing it herself in the future? The cost of these royal toilets is enormous. A state robe requires about forty-five yards of material, at from 150 to 200, sometimes 300, marks. It is said that the empress seldom wears silks or satins costing less than $0 per yard.*The material for her demi-toilets cost, at an average, $20 to $25 per yard; house and carriage dresses, from $15 to $20. The latter require, in addition, an immense outlay in “extras,” bits of deco- ration, trimmings, etc. The decorations for the state robes are ulmost exclusively fur- nished by the crown tresor, or treasury, where all gold braid, loose stones, jewels of any sort, the “historic laces,” embroid- eries, fans, plumes, golden and jeweled buttons, etc., are kept under lock and key and under the strictest control. The tresor is established in the vaults of the royal castle in Berlin, and the occasional visits of the empress to the winter palace in mid- summer are usually due to her desire to releas2 certain jewels for immediate use. This can only be done in her or the kaiser’s Presence. She has two keys to the vaults and two court functionaries have a key each. The fifth key is held by the keeper of the treasury. None of the keys will open the vaults, unless simultaneously all the other keys are applied. The system was established by the first king of Prussia, who had been taken in by his treasure- keeper selling him his (the king’s) own jewels, at enormous prices. The treasure- keeper and his associates, two Berlin He- brews, were broiled for their trouble and afterwards the five-key system was estab- lished. The Cast-Of Garments. The empress wears a court dress only once, or, if it is of extremely great value, twice; but before she dons it a second time its decorations are entirely changed. A royal wedding calls for elght to nine state and full-dress toilets; a visit to a foreign court for twenty to thirty, according to the time of absence from the German capital. When the empress has decided that she is done with a dress it is submitted to the su- perintendent of the crown tresor, so he may order the removal of the jewels fur- nished by him. Sometimes jewels have been lost, and when a search for the same proves unavailable the fact is duly re- corded and acknowledged by the wearer. Then the dress is turned over to the mis- tress of the robe, who marks with pins those parts that shall be turned over to her for use in composing other toilets. After- ward the dress is taken completely apart and the materials ere put away, duly la- beled and at the disposal of her majesty. Auguste Victoria usually gives away a good many of her dresses to her sister and mother, who are not rich; others are used as presents for ladies of the court when the rounds of official festivities make it de- strable to determine the ever vexed ques- tion of “what shal) I wear?” Young ladies of the high aristocracy, especially the wives and daughters of army officers, are also occasionally trea*ed to a regal toilet when they are about to be’presented to her maj- esty and have not the wherewithal. The cast-off demi-toilets, carriage and house dresses are the perquisites of the “head woman of the bed chamber,” who, after selecting clothes for herself, sells them either to private parties or to'a cer- tain store in Oranienstrasse, Berlin. This is an old established business, whose pro- prietress was at one time in the employ of the court. She is not allowed to sell dresses she receives them, but in all cases must them, so to obliterate their special features. Actresses are among the principa! customers of this shop, which, however, is open to everybody. Thus I have seen a well-known demi-mondaine swagger- ing around at a risque ball at the Winter Garden in a dress that only a month pre- vious adorned the German empress at the grand redoute in the Opera House. VERE CAREWE. a Mothers Under Twenty. From the Popular Health Magazine. Offspring born of mothers under twenty do not have good chance of healthy life as those born of mothers over thirty, ac- cording to the facts presented at the recent congress of hygiene. It was shown that the proportion of deaths among children of weakly constitutions, or from maladies traceable to the mother, was twice as large among the children of the former class as among those of the latter. The healthiest offspring were born of mothers between twenty and thirty, united to husbands be- tween thirty and forty. soe A Sure Sign. From Texas Siftings. “Why, my dear, what's the matter?” kindly asked a lady of her friend. “Oh, I feel I am beginning to look quite 014,” was the mournful reply. “Nonsense—whatever put such an idea ito your head?" “Because,” was the reply, “I notice that policemen never take my arm as they used to do.” FASHION’S CENTER What is Shown of the Fall Fashions in Paris, NOVELTIES IN DRESSES AND WRAPS Rough Goods Will Take the Place ot the Smooth Finish. THE STYLISH FURS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. LEEVES ARE BIG- ger than ever, and many of the best- dressed models in a Parisian modiste’s rooms are obliged to pass through an or- dinary doorway side- There is abso- lutely nothing new, se to speak, in this fall's’ fashions. The grand dame is repeat- ing herself. Small waist, high shoulders, big sleeves, round full skirts are the same effects continued in the new gown. The changes are rung in materials, and the em- broideries, and the passementeries, in which the French dress artist excels, are no- where approached. A group of well-dressed women, repre- senting several nations and all recognized authorities on dress, were discussing the noveities that the Parisian dressmaker had to offer this seaon, and their unanimous verdict was that the best American dress- makers can fit as well, often times better, than the foreign artist, and that if it were possible to have manufactured in this coun- try the passementeries, the «imps, and other trimmings, such as you get so easily in Paris, better effects could be attained in style and finish than any French brain could devise today. American éressmakers go to Paris for ideas, improve on them, and some of the best-dressed women in’ this city have never worn a gown made out of the country, % But to get back to sleeves. The newest are so wide, stand out so bravely and are so much draped that there is as much, if not more, material in them than in the skirt of the dress. So you who intend to follow the fashion this winter remember to allow a wide margin for your sleeves. They are puffed, and draped, and trimmed, and all have stiffening pleated into the arm hole to make them stand out straight from the shoulder. Great effects are wired to keep them in place and grass cloth goes anes The — is the thing for this winter, and your style or want of it quick measured there. anaes The New Colors. There is nothing really new in colors either shown in Paris ex-ept it may be for evening ¢resses, when a great effort is being made to make the new blue, “bluet,” they call it, the corn-flower chade, fashion- able. In tulle and fluffy n:aterials it ts very pretty and becoming. “Cerise” is not as entirely new, but will be fashi nable, and all the variations of “Eminence,” from the pinkest to the purplest, will have a share in the popular favor, mainly because of their intense becomingness. For street gowns, broadcloths and ladies’ cloths of a texture a degree or two heavier than we like it here, rough-surfaced materials are shown as staples. Shepherd plaids in red and black, and yellow and black, are pushed to the front also. In fect, checks will be the thing in dull com- bir ations of color, rough textures, but light weights, and are the very smartest thing for street costumes. Covert cloths, tweeds, plain and crapy cheviots, camel's hair and the like are what are offered to the exclu- ston of smooth-surfaced or solid-colored materia In black goods the same ten- dency to rough effects is evident, and where there was one crepon to select from last year there are twenty weaves shown pow. The crepons have simply pushed out all other light-weight goods and have near- ly banished all fancy silks, and for mou! ing control the situation. The plainer ef- fects are used with English crepe for first mourning and after that the weaves in which a little dull silk effect is introduced are the proper thing. Some of the newest crepons have a shimmering surface almost like glass, especially in the opal and green shades. This retails in this country for about $3.50 a yard, so the latest agony is expensive. Silks and satins are in it, of course, and seem to be more fanciful and prettier than ever. There is a new black moire, woven in silk and wool, which is as soft merino and simply uncrushable. Cord silks in figured patterns are the novelty. How to Make Them. The plain, round skirt dies hard. In fact, it Is just as fashionable as ever. Over- skirts were tried a year ago, and all admit were lamentable failures. Some drapery is shown, but long, unbroken lines are main- tained. Panels of different materials are introduced, and some very wide-gored skirts are shown,the sort which leave you in doubt as to whether the wearer is coming or go- ing. The use of rough textures will not al- jow skirt trimming around the edges, un- less it be fur borders. Skirts fit smoothly over the hips and will therefore continue to be a joy to ladies with generdus waist measures. Slender figures can use all the fullness in the drapery they want, provided straight lines are held. The fashionable walking skirt escapes the ground, the house dress is a trifle longer, and no trains are seen, exc»pt for evening wear. Dancing dresses are cut quite round, as they have been for several seasons. Gored skirts are not much scen. Most of the winter gowns are unlined but are, of course, mounted on a silk petticoat. Crepons and such ma- terials are lined with taffeta, are cut in the now familiar bell shape, one seam up the back and are about four and one-half yards around the bottom. A stylish skirt hangs in the back in three broad box plaits and all of them have,elastic bands to keep them trig about the figure. On the whole, fashionable clothes were never as comfort- able and as practical and never was there a better chance for the use of everyday common-sense in your selections of ma- terial and cut. Both Lace d Far. A tour of several days among the leading modistes in Paris, and a careful inspection of all they had to show, developed the fact that no dress model was produced that was not trimmed with either lace, jet or fur. Most had both, but all had lace. Every sort of lace fs used, but the creamy tints in the heevier patterns—reproductions of old laces generally—make the best effects. Sealskin and lamb’s wool are the popular things in fur, but, of course, those who can go in for Russian sable and mink can con- tinue their purchase and create no end of envy by these tip-top luxuries. There is fomcthing about sealskin, though, as dear to the feminine heart to the pocket book, and the new models thought prettier than ever. Coats are full-skirted, of good length, and have big sleeves or ruffied col- lars or broad rever effects, pretty much as for the past two seasons, Capes are better style. They hang very full from round, pointed or square yokes, or have two or three ruffled capes, with a moderately high standing collar. ‘The linings of flowered satin are richer than ever. Some styles prevail in lamb's wool or astrakan. The old-fashioned tip- pets in other furs are revived, but the new- est are ruffled into the standing collar and j the points reach below the waist in front. Ali muffs are bigger, and in fluffy fur, like black bear, &c., look enormous. There will not be quite as much ermine worn, except for evening wraps. Some novelties are shown in ermine and mink combined, mak- ing a more becoming article than the royal fur does alone. The mink collarettes, 89 fashionable the last two winters, are wider and longer, and the back {3 shaped into the neck. Heads and claws are omitted in the newest style, and a bunch of tails, over- lapping each other and reaching to the waist in front, hide the fastenings. A black fox nead, claws and tails, made up as large as life, make one of the most com- fortable of neck warmers. Some of the new muffs have cuffs of the same fur, that can be drawn over the wrists or left inside, and are considered to be the thing in cold weather. These novelties are not generally shown just yet, but are the exclusive de- signs of the leading fur house in Paris, where last month the finishing touches were being given to the furs which will soon be donn y royalty ali over Europe, to say nothing pf the uncrowned kings and queens of tashibn right Lere in -America. No Temptation to Copy This. English girls- are wearing waterfalls, therefore Irish and Scotch and, for all one can tell, Welsh gitis are doing the same. ‘The old-time chigron,a structure made up of fluffy puffs, Mked like two big Vienna rolls, laid side _by side, crosswise or end- wise, sticks out four inches from the back of every feming head you meet. With all this the frontihair is frizzed and curled until it projects just as far over the fore- head as the aggregation does back of the ears. The fashion is not becoming to one in fifty faces, ang in these isolated cases the make-up is shorn of much of its exag- gerated features. With this unbecoming and startling. atye, the hats of the past summer were ‘regular scarecrows, wide- brimmed, flaring fronts, like a child’s mus- lin bonnet, held on heaven and the wearers only knew how. The popular bonnet might have been, and probably was, copied from the fashion plates of twenty years ago, a tiny, three- cornered section of almost anything, lace, jet or flowers, resting far back on the waterfall. Altogether,the average English or Irish woman this summer, whether she wore bonnet or hat, did not hide away any of the crowning glory of her sex, her hair, but for the taste of an American woman a much more becoming get-up could have been managed with the materials at hand. In fact, the English woman does not give up the chignon entirely at any time. Its construction varies, but the general idea remains. Since the mind of woman run- neth to the contrary an English girl with a narrow-brimmed sailor hat and her hair arranged in tiny braids, coiled round and round the back of her head, and front hair frizzed from ear to ear, as the Princess of Wales and her daughters wear theirs, has been the standing type. Sailor Hats and Blouses. The sailor hat undergoes no such trans- formation as to height of crown or width of brim as it does here. It remains the same Uttle flat affair, jaunty and becoming even with the dreadful chignon accompaniment. The straw Alpine hat, with as little trim- ming, has almost superseded the sailor and is gocd for a two or three years’ run, while with us as many months would exhaust its ularity. PePhe blouse shirt and smoothly fitting tailor dress of tweed in light colors is still so universally worn by English girls that it has practically become a national uni- form. It will be just as popular next year, and for twenty years to come in all proba- bility. That's one beauty about being a Britisher, fashion is not a fleeting thing, and you can wear your clothes till they are worn out if you live long enough. All the little vagaries that home style de- creed in the tailor suit the past year, the full-skirted short jacket and very much gored and stiffened skirt are not considered gcod style by the smartest English tatiors. ‘The latest agony in the tailor dress is a wide bell skirt, one seam, and that up the back, and no trimming of any kind. The jacket is cut well over the hips, and the skirt of it only moderately full. The sleeves are full and stand out smartly from the shoulders in broad box pleats. When a stiff skirt and vest are worn,the jacket has broad flaring revers, but for winter wear coats are double-breasted, and button high, and the | correct finish will be a boa or collarette of some kind of fur. A tailor dress, too, means that every stitch in it has been put in by a ian, and the English and Irish lady of fashion wants just that kind of work, and no other for her walking dresses. Such is the ascendancy, however, of the daintiness and smoothness of fit which characterized ithe well-dressed American woman that ¥ is said of the most fashion- able tailors in Londen that the only men about the establishments are the cutters and fitters. Womety dd the sewing, and all of it is “engined,” ad they call machine sew- ing in the old country. Will We Wear These, Tout The French woman who has gone in for bicycle riding wears knickerbocke7s, or “knicks,” as they say in England. Bicycle costumes no longer exist merely in fashion Plates. London stfeets give small opportu- nity for the enjoyment of the wheel, but the fair sex are seen just as often as the other, carefully picking their way among the confusion of vehicles. Their “knickers” are pretty much the same as the men wear, but are more or less concealed by the long- skirted ccat-tails. With the French girl who has taken so'heartily to an exercise so foreign to at het traditions there is no such poor subterfuge to cover up the ema cipation from petticoats. Her “knickers’ are regular bloomers, hang somewhat over the knee, 4d display such uniformly well- rounded lower limbs as to iiake women, who are usually suspicious of other women’s charms, think that some of the curves may come with the costume. The blouse waist, generally in a lighter color, and a smart, round hat give the whole outfit ar. opera bouffe flavor that has its attractions, no dcubt of it. The French girl has herself and her wheel driven out to the Champs Elysee and the Bois, where there is o pportunity to show off some fine riding .d her costume. If it is an easy dress iv: riding, of course, it is easier still for walking Therefore, it is quite as common, at the moment, to see the girls who have got rid of the superfiuous petti- coat making no bones at all of wearing their new rigs at any hour and on every oc- casion, and it excites but little attention. The French girl, however, who keeps to the tra- ditions of her sex, and is never seen abroad without a chaperone or servant, is not go- ing in for the like, and, therefore, has smal! respect for the eccentricities of her sister who does. The wonder is now how long will it take for the “knickers” to become fash- jonable among the lady cyglists in Wash- ingten, who are, as a rule, so becomingly, modestly and comfortably dressed now for the perfect enjoyment of this delightful ex- ercise. "H. Mec. ——-— +00 Ladien’ Matinee. This garment, which ts used for morning wear is one of the latest things seen in the fashionable world, and is becoming quite Popular. A néat/and pretty gown is here shown, end stoujd be made of material that is showy , attractive. The sleeves are lorge and areitrmmed with a ruffle of lace. There is alsasajruffie over the shoulders. From the neck, fwhere the collar fastens a ruffle of lace extends down under each arm, and a large bow:mgain figures in this cos- tume, which ifs fastened to the collar, add- ing greatly tovits!general appearance. This garment hangs loose upon the figure and is Not only neatifor the house, but serviceable as well. £m ———++- + e+ Wonién Who Help. From Jenness Miller; Monthly, Mrs. Oscar? Wilde has slipped into her niche in life,’ which seemingly is to wear with grace and effect the aesthetic craper- fes designed by her husband. Mrs. Wilde is a beautiful young woman, and her gowns are among the most poetic that have ever been created; but even if they weren't, the supposition is that she would continue to wear them, anyway, because her husband designed them, for women are quite us true to the tdols of their husbands as they ever were, notwithstanding all the talk about woman and the derision she inspires along with her large capitals. Mrs. Hider Hag- gard occupies the same place with regard to her husband that Mme. Blouet does to hers, and rides, walks and explores with him everywhere besides. Olivar Wendell Holmes said once that some literary men reminded him of big, magnificent ships that got all the credit for their own beauty and usefulness. while in reality some busy little tug of a wife was pulling them along ¢rcr the shoals, HOUSEHOLD HINTS Simple Expedients by Which a Table Can Be Made Attractive. CHILDREN NEED YOUNG COMPANIONS Fried Johnny Cakes and How They Are Made. : TO REMOVE GREASE SPOTS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. People whe are too intense about the things that they undertake to do, whether it be social, home or business affairs that cceupy their attention, are the individuals who furnish physicians with all their in- teresting cases of nervous prostration, Such reople live up their nersous vitality faster than nature can build it up, and the result is a physical wreck, just about the time when one should begin to enjoy life. We live too fast all the time. That is a fault of the American people—a national fault, if you please—and it is no use whatever to tell an American to “go slow.” he can't do it. He'd much rather be told to step lively, But if he would move fast judicivusiy se would accomplish just as much and live longer. American men and women are given to bolting their food, for instance— one of the surest and speediest ways of wearing out the physical man. If men and women would only eat more slowly, drink less ice water, and less liquid generally with their food, and then consent to sit quietly for fifteen moments after eating they would be surprised at the change for the better that would ensue almost im- mediately. It takes about half an hour for the process of digestion to get properly started, and if overheated by a brisk walk or chilled by a cold one, or if brain work is begur immediately following a hearty meal, a spell of indigestion is bound to make you uncomfortable. Nature is a stern taskmaster. She punishes you with sone ache or ill each time you break one of her laws. You do nyt notice her gentle ehastising at first, but when years begin to creep on and your system does not re- trieve its errors as rapidly as it did in youth, then you go to the doctor for a “nerve tonic,” and execrate him if he finds himrelf unable to build upon a rotten found- ation. If you would live a happy life and die like a Christian you've got to learn to live right before your system is burned out. If you are afflicted with a “gone” feeling cn awakening in the morning, try drinking a cup of hot milk or of cambric tea. A +. of condensed milk will last you two Weeks, and makes a good morning drink. Use a teaspoonful to a cup of boiling water; drink hot. It is not always possible to procure fresh salmon, but here is a delicious dish made of the canned fish. Take the paper off the can and put it unopened into a pan of boil- ing water. Let it boil vigorously for half an hour, then open and turn the fish into a hot dish. Drain off all the oil, pour over it @ hot cream sauce and send to the table garnished with cress, parsley celery tops. You will find this polatatie and pretty. ee There is so much more in setting forth an attractive table than most people think. A dish of cold sliced meat looks much more attractive when garnished with bits of green, or if there is nothing green at hand, some oddly cut pieces of red beets with two or three rings of carrot will make a pretty garnish. Some housewives of small means have a small box of parsiey growing in the sunny south window of the kitchen, where two or three bits can be snipped off each meal. The pretty garnish grows very nice- ly under such circumstances and is no trou- bie at all, It costs only a penny or two a bunch in market if you can afford to buy and can be kept a long time in water. If there are children, you may be sure they will like the greens. A slender vase that will hold a single geranium and a leaf or two will quite change the appearance of a meagerly spread table. These little artistic touches are the diverging marks that lie between a home and a place where one stops. In one we live, in the other we exist. Far ioo many people are contented to sim- ply exist. ir .eS, 6. es Se It is a sin and a shame the way some children are permitted to ruin their diges- tion eating candy. If all candy were pure, a little would hurt no one. But so many adulterations are used now that you can never be sure that your child is not eating rank poison when he surrounds a lot of the gaudily colored cheap candies put up for the express purpose of coaxing the pen- nies away from him. One mother that I know has forbidden all candy to her young hopefuls. But she keeps on the sideboard a covered dish of loaf sugar, to which the children have access at eli times. This satisfies their desire for sweets, and they care less and less for candy each year. Home-made candies answer the same pur- pose. es 8 © we Inflamed eyes which will yield to no other treatment will sometimes Le benefited by a tea-leaf poultice. Pour boiling water on the leaves and let them stand until they are quite soft, then lift the leaves onto a soft cloth and bind directly on the closed eyes. This should be done at night and removed in the morning. swe 6 “A house without a library is like a body without a soul,” somebody has wisely re- marked, and how many soulless houses one will see in a round of one day’s visits! A library is easy to acquire, and in these days is not costly. Books are very cheap, and though it is nice to own costly-bound books, they are not serviceable. When you are going on a trip take the time to select a book for reading that you will care to keep. When you have an hour to spare down in town, go into a second-hand book store and look at the mine of wealth tucked away in the dust of years. You will be sure jo find something that you want to have in your brary. Buy care- fully, and with discrimination and care, and you will be surprised to find what an extensive colicction you can get around you in a year’s time. Books should be like one’s friends, chosen with regard to their worth and treasured accordingly. It is debatable how far adults may indulge in the light literature of the day, but whatever you do —do not leave any of it around for greedy young minds to absoro. The most direct Way to sully the pliant mind of youth is by means of flash literature. More bo! are ruined, more girls sent on the dow! ward path, through the agency of trashy stories with unholy love for their theme, or fabulous tales of daring, than by any other means. Such teachings seep into the very soul, and, like the deadlier poisons that eat out the life of the victim unawares, they pollute the sensibilities until the mind refuses more wholesome food. "se we To take machine grease out of a white fabric wash the spot with clean cold water and a white soft cloth. Rub gently at frst and then hard. Ripe tomatoes are an excellent cosmetic for the hands and face. Cut a tomato open and rub the skin well, then let it dry for five or ten minutes, after which wash off with clear soft water. <2. SS To keep cheese from molding or from drying out, wrap it in a cloth, dampened with vinegar, and keep in a covered d “oar j ° It is sald that a fresh plece of lemon bound on a corn three nights in succes- sion will loosen the core so that it can be drawn right out. It is a simple and safe remedy, if it does not Many of the corn lotions and cures offered for sale are dangerous to use and often end by mak- ing the feet sorer than at first. . 88 : Never give opiates to children if it can possibly be avoided. The brains of children are peculiarly susceptible to the influen and are prone to inflammation and co! gestion. The smaliest dose of opium in any form will sometimes cause fatal results, and the frequent use of the drvg will result in a state of chronic engorgement of the blood vessels of the brain, which from the slight- est cause will give rise to convulsions, dropsy of the brain or some othr fatai disease. s 2 © ow Do not try to bring your children up without young companions. Such a life is unhealthy in the extreme. Select the chil- dren whom you wish your own to ming! with, and then turn them loose to have a good time. Companioniess children are pre- ternaturally oid, and they grow up young cynics and pessimists through having al- ways lived with grown people. It ts said that there are no children now, that they are all born old. It is too sadiy true, and the parent who wittMIngly rears a child in that cheerless manner has stolen half of his child's heritage of happiness. 8 e © A splendid shoe blacking that will soften the ieather and make it retain its gloss can be made of the common cheap vaseline and lamp black. Take enough of the black to make a thick paste of the vaseline. Ap- ply to the shoe with a small rag, rubbing it well in. The shoe will look dull at first, but after the oil has dried in it will ge quite glossy. It is best to put it on at night. es 8 . Did you ever eat fried “johnny cakes?” They are perfectly delicious, and are, I think, indigenous to Missouri. I never ate them anywhere else, at any rate. Take a cupful of sour milk, one cupful of sweet milk, two eggs and enough soda to sweeten the mess. To this add in corn meal and flour till you can make firm round balls of the dough, by working it in your hands— make them smail, using one-third four, the rest meal—and then drop them in hot lard and fry as you would doughnuts. Eat them when hot, with butter, or make a gravy as for cream toast, then cut the doughnuts open and cover with the gravy. oe © we 8 When you have a tired kind of a leadache that has worn your nerves to a thin edge, try this treatment. Twist your hair on top of your head, undo and remove your bodice. Get a pan of hot water and a sponge, and pass the wet sponge over the back of your neck, face and forehead for ten minutes. Keep the water as near the boiling point as you can endure it. Your flesh will seem to be parboiled, but that won't hurt it a bit. Keep up the hot water treatment till you ere pretty tired, then dry your face and neck, rub them with a litile white vaseline and le down on a couch for tifteen minutes. You will go to sleep in five, and when you get up you will laugh at the idea of ever having had the headache in your life. e ete se Physicians do not scruple to say that half the cases of chronic catarrh come from the ignorance of mothers who seem to think that a case of “sniffles” in a child amounts to nothing, when, in fact, it is the starting of nasal catarrh. As soon as a baby de- velops a case of the sniffles the mother should attend to it, and see that it has treatment at once. The cavities cf the nose should be sprayed out two or three t'mes a Gay and kept perfectly free of corruption. If care is not taken to do this, unpleasant and pernicious consequences may result. roam can be easily avoided if taken in me. * 2 © @ A child of four, five or six years of age should be put to bed at six o'clock and get at least fourteen hours of undisturved sleep. Children who sleep weil are usually healthy. —_ to it that your little ones get enough sleep. ———>_—_ A GOOD COMPLEXION. To Wash or Not to Wash the Face in the Question. Christine Terhune Herrick, in Harper's Bazar~ The face is usually the part of their per- sons women most desire to make attractive. There are exceptions to this order, who de- clare that the face is unimportant if the figure is good, but as a rule, the woman who has a pretty face feels that the gods have not dealt ungenerously with her. Without a gcod complexion all other beauties fail to show to advantage. A pair of magnificent eyes are never at their best set in a sallow, unhealthy-looking face, and Perfectly molded features, if covered with a greasy, blotched, colorless skin, do not show for half their value. On the other hand, a clear, pure com- plexion will, to a great extent, atone for irregular features. In consideration of this, it is a great comfort to reflect how often it lies within a woman's power to materially benefit even a poor complexion. As a matter of course, the bathing that invigorates the whole body cannot fail 1o produce a salutary effect upon the fac But more than this may be done. It has passed into a proverb, in speaking of a slatternly cr careless woman, to say: “She does not know enough to wash her face.” How many neat women know how to Wash their faces in the right way? It is one of those processes commonly supposed to come, as Dogberry said of reading and writing, by nature. A woman washes her face in hot or cold water, as the fancy strikes he>, with the hands or with a cloth or sponge, with soap or without, when she is going out in the wind or when she is coming out of the sun. She dries it gently with a soft towel or polishes it off with a rough one, according to her fancy. She never stops to think of che harm she may be doing her complexion by this reck- less treatinent. There may be some skins that will stand such rouzh handling and show no ill effect. There are very few that would not be benefited by tendervr care. The woman who has due regard for her complexion will not wash her face just be- fore going out or just after coming in. The temptation is great to dash water over the face when one is heated by exercise in the open air, but the tempo-ary relief will be forgotten In the dry, burning sensation that will speedily follow. If the face must be cleansed at such a time, it shouid be “care- fully wiped with a soft cloth, and perhaps powdered lightly. On the same principle, the woman who has become overheated in housework or by other indoor exercise will be wise if she delays washing her face until the skin has regained its normal temperature. Some complexion ‘specialists go even farther than this, and say the face shousl never be washed, At ieast one woman in New York affirms that she has not washed her face in seven years. She has a beauti- ful skin, and when compliinented upon it, she says: “Ah, you should have seen my grandmother's skin. When she was seven- ty, It was like a rose leaf, and she had not washed her face for twenty-six years.” Similar stories are told of Mme. Patti and other persons of remarkably fine com- plexions, but the truth of these is not vouched for by rehable aythoriti On the other hand, there is a ing in New Yerk who makes a practice of wasving hr face ever’ night with soap and hot water. She is over fifty years cld, her skin is satin smouth, and the coloring as delicate as th: of a young girl. A friend of b who is about the same age, and has a complexion rivaling the other's, puts only clear, pure water on her face, and Las not touched it with soap in fully twenty years. ‘The weight of evidence is with the pecple who use soap, but ali agree in saying that only the purest scap must be employed, and thit every particle of it must be rmsed off. Auchorities‘on the matter assert that the face should not be washed oftener than once a day, and that the water should never be dashed over it, as the delight- ful and reprehensible practice of most inen and some women. Very little water should be used, and it ould be applied with a soft cloth. a fine “baby” sponge, or one of the high-priced facial sponxes. Hot water is said to have a tendency to produce wrinkles, but this statement is open to doubt. Hot or warm water cleanses the face more effectually than the cold, and @ sponging off with cool water immediately afterward will probably obviate any possi- ble evil effect. If there is any predilection toward crup- tions of the skin, warm water is to be rec- ommended. In winter cold water 1s some- times preterable to not, as the latter, by making the face tender, renders $t more liable to become chapped.’ When cold water is used, it should be soft, and hard water should have added to it a little horax o: a very few drops of diluted ammonia. Nothing is better for washing the face than rain water, and there is a superstition that that which falls in May or Jun> is es. pecially beneficial to the compiexion. After the face has been washed it should be ariel gently and very thoroughly. A soft tow better for ti By many p ferred to purpose. roman liv- e+ A Disconnected Story. From Life. Se eee CREEDON IS ALL RIGHT. No Reason why He Should act Give Fitesim mons a Hard Fight. The story now going the rounds of the papers about Dan Creedon's attack of muscular rheu- matism and how he cured it in time to train for his contest with Fitzsimmons, which takes place in New Orleans, on Sept. 26th, has aroused no little discussion in the sporting circles. Creedon’s own version of it as told to a re- porter of the St. Louis Chronicle, in the presence of his backer and manager Col. John D. Hop- kins, was to the effect thet he first took cold by going from the stage in a perspiration to a cold dressing room. The trouble progressed rapidly and when ordinary remedies did not give re- lief, physicians were called, but they also failed tohit upon the right treatment. By this time his muscles wereswollen and his joints so stiff 4s to make him utterly useless. It was now apparent that something out of the ordinary must be done or Creedou'sdaysas 4 pugilist were numbered. To make matters worse Creedon hada lnera- tive engagement to help train Jim Corbett for his fight with Mitchell, which he would have to give up. Col. Hopkins at last discharged the physi« cians and took the case in hisown hands. He prescribed Dr. Williams’ Pink Pills which Cree- don took with the best results, as is shown by the fact that a short time afterward he started for Jacksonville, Fia., to train Corbett. He withstood the change of climate and has bad no return of the trouble, That's the rheumatism story in a nutshe}l andanyone wishing to back Creedon in the coming contest need give the rheumatism no second thought. Dr. Williams’ Pink Pilis have notonly proved an infallible specific for muscular rheumatism, but some of the most noted pugilists and atb- setes Lave found in them a sure method of creating new blood and new tissue. These pills act directly on the nerve centres and hold the life forces at the highest ebb, The kidneys and liver are kept in a perfectly healthful condition and every function properly performed. Al) these constitute a reserve force upon which the athlete can draw at all times with the best results. ESE SOCH SSE @(n) AUM’ POPULAR SHOPPING PLACE, 416 7TH ST. To the public. Re OFFICE OF CHAS. BAUM. Not having been successful in find- ing a suitable pur- chaser for my busi- ness, I have deter- mined to continue. Having thoroughly reorganized, will restock all depart- ments ee * get goods. s go ahead withasmuch energy as ever and hope to merit the confidence of our aang as hereto- ore. Respectfully yours, CHAS. BAUTi. New goods are arriving dally and are marked at prices that are positively the lowest. AUM’ 416 77H ST. SOODDSISIDS OOSO DOSS DHOGIHS HOSVHOHOTOHIOSOO HHS $ iemenialiads “7...” Corsets, i °o ° 2227 Tomorrow we shall place ? 77 7? EP? ton sale one case of the } 7 7 7 22 2 2 world-famed 22.” im 7777 2? 2? ported Corsets. These hawe 7 7 7 7 222 7 extra Waists, are shown } 7 7 7 222 2im white, drab and eaee | BEST GU eed 29S 2277 to $4.50 per pair. 2777 6 2727 «It ts useless to go inte 7 PP F | F224 fany explanations reuding 1773 g E???7? every lady 7777 & Prd re of PPPF - 27? mde 339 29? hes. 2,277 unre Corset guaranteed. TPT? © , ' | Whelan’s,1003 F | : in our STORAGE WAREHOUSE. need give It a thought while it's care possible will be tak- (Don’t Believe — “Sugar Loaf” Is better than bread baked at home— don’t beliewe It doesn't dry out—dou't Lelieve it's better the secoad day than the Girst-dou't believe it's snore nutritioas than meat—witheut trying it. Order a loaf and sce for yourself— ‘only Be. That'll convince you, C7 Every loaf ia if your grocer hasn't it drop us a postal, we'll see that you're supplied. oston — u. &. ceary, rror, ie 19, IDI, 223 . 5... lé akery, . ; paakies oon a ‘Lamp Shade » FRAMES At almost the cost of making them, ( or Any ye \ CF Speciat Auy kind of Wire Work can Sze Modest hed or will —