Evening Star Newspaper, March 10, 1894, Page 18

1s —— THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MARCH 10, 1894—TWENTY a2Gasd A SEASON OF BODICES These Charming Toilet Accessories as Popular as Ever. SOME EFFECTIVE DESIGNS a oe A Pretty Waist Will Set Off an Old Dress Skirt. —_+——_ BUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING ——_+—_—_. Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE GREAT VA- riety of fanciful bod- ice designs display- ed by leading modis- tes proves that these charming toilet ac- cessories are as popu- lar as ever; and aside from their beauty,the self-evident fact of their general utility qualities recom- mends them to the great mass of women who wish to “put the Dest foot forward.” and at the same.time aeep within the limits of a very moderate income. If one has a pretty silk waist, becoming- ty made, all the old, dark dress skirts in the wardrobe may be resurrected and worn with it, and the effect of the bodice will be so charming that the skirt would never re- @eive more than a glance, and that would fot be a critical one. ‘There are so many beautiful and inex- pensive silks, in plain, tartan and change- able effects, that each shopper can get ex- actly what suits her complexion or pocket- Dook, without any advice from me; but af- ter the material has been procured, it is sometimes puzzling to know just how to make it up, and that is where I may be abie to assist. For a Slender Figure. ‘The first sketch shows as pretty a style any one could wish for, and is particu- Bus becoming to tall, slender girls. The original model was developed in tartan Plaid silk; the ground being a rich crimson, €rossed by narrow lines of gold, blue and white. The collar (a stock) is eats, from which the silk is drawn in jeep folds to the waist, where it is held by a beit of wrinkled silk, which is fastened by a bolero knot of the same material. Whe lower part is merely a large double ff. Make the sleeves as large as your cy dictates or your material allows; the rger the better. The first puff should each the elbow, the second is a very full @ouble ruffle, while the epaulettes must also be doubie, each one of the four ruffles, and gery full. laid in lengthwise Se 7Y } The Blouse Effect. The second illustration is equally attrac- @ve, but require little more skill in making, as the yoke and collar a ene piece. This is of * 4s the girdle and the » Waist proper is of delicate pink and white changeable silk, which is gathered on the Yoke, and then drawn loosely into the gir- dle, so as tw prod e the pretty blouse ef- eeves are two enormous 1. to give the correct ye difficult to find a more enerally becoming style than and the si 7 terial may be deli- gorgeous or subdued in tone. The ef- t of the finished bodice is sure to be sat-/ tory. The pectaiog OF a. ountenes: karvedt-howts: given her any light on the siiver question Beside the boundless 0c 1 as yet, and I was Dorothy I wateh the ships i was diverted from e is a regu- heed them not—only for th lar firebrand. It who under- Love, bas thy gentle heart e’er sighed for me? took to instruct the think you With Elbow Sleeves. ought to know s the rest . ori, Across the autumn sky white clouds are drifting, © I unde Bobbie awn foe the Pee erec| wt blue, M™ | was meekly squelched at this, but had the | fectt ; tia beer te courage to declare that she could not make aunt. whe pabics tear: head or tail of it, and she thought that a| front, but lef © more Is turning, | BTGAt many i | The ribbon dec | hard Inbor wrought right faithful Sy cademtat thes eibieets eten | - } ul loue, for thee, joved one, I'm yearn-| you really set your mind to it. You know ~ to the el > |1 make a point of informing myself, be- | at and slightly redeed SS ne ee teed cause I like to talk to the Congressmen who still m e volt s 2 — ao ~ visit papa,"’ Mary went on. me of them shoulder, are still more voluminous at the ois lave pains the cunplonsat ae meine tee TO ACQUIRE A PRETTY NECK. I was really quite amusing. Now, on mat- ters of this kind I think it is always safest to take one’s party platform. I don't quite Rales Laid Down by Mrs. Bishop That | understand why, but it seems that on silver Are Well to Follow. the most of the democrats have abandoned ony . ee ck | their own platform and gone over to the ewiiyhoa pasties cagtogielars evn Heck) jouiliats’., © Weard adnié gentlemen rons: {and a flat chest? Here is an admirable ex-| strating with papa the night before the bill \ercise taught by Mrs. Emily Bishop to wo-| passed, and they told him that he was not men who are so afflicted, which, if followed | standing by his pa rty pledges, and he said | persistently, will develop the chest mus-| he didn’t have to; that the populist ideas ;3| about money and things just suited him, eles and fi out sll those telltale hollows | S07 they coull call It fiat money oF mice in the neck: thing else they pleased, that he is for free Advance one foot as in a long step and| silver and plenty of it.” stand with the weight on it, extending the| | “Isn't it odd.” sald Nora, that there are vi cans, too? arms parallel to reach other in front until | free silver republicans, too? There is ane they are in line with the shoulders, ener-| Popping up with questions which the Speake gize them and close the hands as if each } er does not want to answer. I felt so sorry | were firmly grasping a rope, keeping the| for Mr. Bland the other day, when he was | eyes steadily fixed on some point about|so near success, and the Speaker spoiled it two feet above their level; inhale slowly | all by making the gentleman from Daxota and with great energy pull the extended | mad, and then the republicans refused to arms down and well backward; at the same | vote on the roll call that would have put an jtime bend t so forward, but do not|end to the trouble. I don’t think It ts very | transfer the weight of the body. The head | statesmanlike to act like a lot of contrary "= | bends backward in opposition to the torso. | boys.” For a Demi-Tollet. | Hold the position for a moment, then with- I suppose that free silver will be very The fashionable ste insists that the | draw all unnecessary rerve force from the | nice,” interjected Mary, as she held up for Wesent style o res cue yard muscles and exhale as the body returns to | inspection the little skirt she had just fin- of si re wore of the mater’ai than all the rest of the bodice, and judging from designs shown by some of the New York artists, one can easily believe it. The next model is pretty for a demi-toilet and is especially becoming to those bi a with pretty throats. The material is drawn in straight foids from the neck opening to the pointed waist. The very wide ruffle about the neck is a new and decidedly ar- tistic innovation, and the sleeves are, as Of Yellow Crepo: usual, stylishly monstrous. The edge of the bodice should be laid over with rib- bon, matching or contrasting in color, as the wearer may desire, and drawn up on the left side, where it is secured by numer- ous loops. Sy the way, there is a positive craze just at present for ribbon girdles, cinctures, rosettes, &c., but there must be no “float- ing ends.” The loops may reach the edge of the skirt in front or the end of a court train, but it must be a loop in every sense of the worl. Much From Little. Another stylish and very inexpensive little waist is made of pale yellow crepon, the only decoration used being the narrow band | of jet which outlines, the rounded open-! ing about the neck and follows the edge: of the belt. The belt and waist ruffle should be securely sewed together and made sep-' arate from the bodice, which is stiffly! boned. One of my friends, a charming girl, with a clever head and small pocket book, has just finished the following ingenious’ cos- tume. Taking an old black silk gown for the starting point, she cut out one of the skirt breadths and made a perfectly plain and rather scant petticoat, finishing it about the foot with three tiny ruffles. This skirt is worn under another very full one of inexpensive net. The plain high neck of the waist was then cut out and a pretty half-low opening made, after which the bodice was covered with folds of net, very full about the opening, but ending in scant | pleats at the waist, which was cut in deep | points front and back. A tiny heading of; the net was left about the throat, and this | was banded by a piece of jet insertion with | A Pretty Design. jingling little pendants. The very full sleeve puffs, reaching to the elbow, were also covered with net. This made a delightfully effective evening gown, but an afternoon and general utility dress was also needed, so a deep yoke with high collar was made, and, after being cov- ered with folds of net, was tacked into {ts place. Then long dress cuffs were added and basted into the elbow sleeves, and the clever little dressmaker has two really beautiful gowns, which, after all, is only one. The last sketch shows one of the very prettiest designs I have seen. The silk is drawn over the perfectly fitted lining in straight folds from shoulder to the pointed waist, forming a sharply defined V. This opening fs to be filled in with silk of | a contrasting color, velvet or lace, and is so arranged that the neck is left open and square. In the back the material is cut into a slight V-shaped opening, and from | there drawn in scant folds to the waist, which is finished with a full double ruffle. The sleeves reach the elbow and are made in two immense puffs. B. V. K. —-—_ | Written for The Evening Star. Thinking of Thee. Swift, through the wintry air, the scud is flying, Low moans the wind, and drear the night comes down; With ghostly murmurings, whisp'rings never dying, The lofty elms are swaying, gaunt and brown; Dark, lonely, passionless—all bas the seeminz Of realms where Hght and li eased to be, As by my fire I'm sitting, of thee dreaming Love, deigns thy fancy e’er to dream of me? Soft is the breath of Spring, benign her ble Radiant ber sinile o'er budding leaves and flowers; An artful lover flits the breeze, caressing Pair natu: glens and bowers; Like snow! sinking, The apple blossoms leave the mother tree, Beneath whose rustling boughs of thee I'm think- ing: Love, lives there in thy heart one thought of me? earlier wakes and longer tarries, sting bud hath to fruition come; that sweeps the ficlds and orchards car- ‘Th pits original position, I ished, ALL ABOUT SILVER! anything ought to be nice for hungry, cold men and women, and IT can’t see why that | great giant of a rich Tom Reed should ob- Senora Sara’s Friends Tackle a Dif- ficult Probl ee THEY REACH SOME NOVEL CONCLUSIONS, And Explain About Making the White Metal Free. CHARITY AND POLITICS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. ARA, WHAT ‘free silver?” Thad my mouth full of pins when Bobbie applied to me for in- formation and could not answer her at once, and that is how I came by the follow- ing amazing exposi- tion of the silver and other questions which have heen stumbling blocks to statesmen since the foundation | yet are instantly Is of understood by girls in their teens. The the government, seven girls—counting Elaine—whom as a body Dick has dubbed my “herd,” were in my room doing their “slum- ming sewing,” as they call it. ‘They Meet one day in each week, and sometimes oftener if the notion takes them, to sew for the poor little kids whom the} have found in their charitable rounds. As I ex- pected, the task of engineering the remark- able efforts of these girls has at last fallen uren me. The girls have done and are do- ing some remarkably good work. There ts more than one poor home in this great city | where the fire burns brighter because of | coal money saved from a candy fund, and | red-kneed, frost-bitten-toed youngsters are | much less frequent in the sections under the direct espionage of these girls. To be sure, the grocery bills in six well-ordered homes have gone up ercrmously in the last five weeks, with a corresponding “plethora of provender,” according to Dick, in twice that many humble cottages. But this all came about through the inde- fatigable efforts of the “invincibles,”” who have given bravely of their own and helped others to see their duty in a way that no one else could have brought about so hap- pily. In another, but perhaps not so great a sense, their work is also remarkable. They all want to sew. A laudable enough desire, but candor compels me to admit that as seamstresses they will not illumi- nate the firmament to any vivid degree, though they all want to be stars. Jennie’s latest achievement was a frock for a two- year-old child, in which there was positive- ly no avenue cf ingress or egress, as she had sewed up every scam from neck to heels. Louise seems indifferent as to wheth- er sleeves are sewed in upside down or not. While Bobbie is utterly impervious to the fact that embroidery has two sides,and that even a charity child may have scruples about appearing to wear its clothes wrong side out. It remained for Mary, however, to add the halo to what the girls do not know about sewing. I intrusted to her the seemirgly easy task of cutting out some aprons for a little girl of five. There was gingham enough to make five aprons, and the little material that would be left I in- tended to use in making a little sleeveless elip for a younger child. I left the room to entertain a caller, and on my return Mary gleefully told me that she had been able to! get six aprons out of the gingham, when 1 had only planned five Five Into Six. “One for each day in the week, girls,” she announced, proudly, and the “herd” re- sponded with one voice, “How nice!” Nice indeed! Every blessed one of those aprons Was too short by at least six inches, and she had cut them as narrow in proportion. “It seemed such a pity not to make six, she said in extenuation of her economy “when by making them such a tiny bit | shorter and narrower I could use up all the cloth and save that waste; and you know, | Sara, that every child should have at least | siX aprons to change every day. 1 have | heerd mamma say that lots of times, and | if you don’t make that many the child will | surely catch cold from leaving off its apron | one day when it has no clean one. 1 still | insist that I was right, though it fs too bad | if I have got them too small.” Of course I | have no logic that will reach a case like that. The charity of silence is the only thing that will fit the occasion. Fortunate- ly, Bobbie's question set the ball rolling, and there was no need for me to interfere. “Free silver," echoed Mary. “Isn't that what that tiresome Missouri man has been fussing about so long and obstructing the business of the House with “You may call it ‘fussing’ if you like,” said Dorothy, warmly. “or my part, I call it pretty good generalship. In the face of imminent defeat, both for himself and his party, when the friends of the measure begged him to let the silver question go for the time, at least because self-interest seem- ed to have made cowards of them, he stood right there and said that he would continue to stand till it got colder than it has in Washington yet this winter before he would abate one jot of his principles in the meas- ure. It was because he was too good a gen- efal to know when he was whipped that he came through with victory on his banner.” “Dear me, Dorothy,” was Mary's sur- prised rejoinder, “I thought you were a ‘gold bug.’ I’m sure that is what that southern member said come over to our side “Indeed, I have not,” was her spirited re- ply; “but I always admire a man who has the courage of his convictions.” “But wasn’t it your republicans who were ou were. Have you making it so hari for Mr. Bland?” asked | Mary. “They filibustered, papa said, until he was actually afraid y “would have to count a quorum to get any business done this session.” Very Simple When You Know. “Count fiddlestick: said Dorothy, more forcibly than elegantly. “You know very well the republicans wouldn't make a grease spot in this Congress if («2 demo- crats had backbone enough to get together and do something. One's afraid and the| other dare not, that fs all that ails the dem- ocratic party in Congress.” At this june- ture Bobbie complained that no one had , “though I can’t understand it. Free | ject to it. I think it is awful of the mean, hateful men who want to make poor peo- ple pay for things when Congress could just ; Now, there | ¢ Why, we girls could have had | as many candied violets for Lent as ever if) as well make them free as not. is free coal. there had been free coal, so that we need not have used our allowance for coal for the poor people whom we found. I can't see how any sane person can insist on hav- ing coal that isn’t free to everybody, when all you have to do is to hunt upa place where coal grows and just dig it out of the ground.” Hurrah for Free Everything. “Now I feel just that way about free sil- ver.” It was Nora who shied her castor mto the arena again. “I don’t pretend to understand it at all, but it sounds nice. Why, 1 want to know, shouldn't we have free everything? This is a free country, and we have been saying so ever since the 5 o'clock tea in Boston harbor. I think that We ought to have free wool, free iron, free sugar—" “Oh, yes; free sugar; I had forgotten that,” broke’in Mary. “Papa says that un- less there is more sugar in sight than he has seen yet there is a good deal of legis- lation that won't get through this Congress. He seems to think that the men who have free silver mines are not free enough about sugar, though I’m sure I cannot see the analogy. Papa says that there are a great | many things that I do not understand.” “For my part, 1 want free silver, serted Louise. “Just think what it would mean to us girls. Why, we could have solid silver toilet sets, and silver-mounted things without end. And think about how much the wedding presents we have to give cost us. Why, positively, we could give whole dinner sets of silver to each other when we get married, and never think of the cost, if silver is free.” But, Louis asked Bobbie, anxiously; “if silver gets so very common, would we gare to have our things made out of it any More than we do now of tin?” “You are such a ninny. Of course silver will never get common like tin; it costs more money. It will just be free. Can't you see‘"* Bobbie did not see, but that made no dif- ference to Louise, who went on elucidating. ‘Now, you must see that it would be a great boon to poor people to have free silver. They could have silver knives, and forks, and silver spoons. I told Mrs. Curran, the other day, that it was positively dangerous to give her baby medicine in an iron spoon. as- | Our family physician says that silver is the only thing fit to put medicine in. Mrs. Curran’ smiled a little, and said: “Yes, miss,"" but I don’t Lelleve she comprehend- ed, for the next time that I went there she was still using the iron spoon. 1 call it very careless. I don't see why they neglect to buy such things. Of course, clothes wear out, and one has constantly to keep buying something to eat, but good silver ought to last a Ifetime. Mamma has some silver spoons and things that are over a hundred years ol “Louise,” began Bobbie again; ‘you don’t mean that silver is to be absolutely free, do you? Can people get it when they have nothing to buy it with? I remember when I took that awful course in political econo- my that there was something somewhere in it about the laws of supply and demand, and that all values must be based on that. If silver is to be so awful plenty, will not that make it dreadful cheap? And even then, how can people get it when they have nothing to exchange for it?” Bobbie is So Foolish. » “Now, Bobbie; that ts like you, exactly. You never are satisfied to do as other peo- ple do until you are told all the ‘whys.’ The ‘gold bugs’ keep saying that just to con- fuse the voters about their duty. They are always saying to the populists: ‘Suppose you get free silver, how will it help you if you have not the corn, or wheat, or horses, or something to exchange for it?” And then they ask them in the severest tones imagin- able: ‘If you have anything to sell, do you not get, in good money, every cent your stuff is worth right now? I do not think it is right or kind to twit the poor populists with their poverty, and keep them all the time talking about it the way some of them do. Everybody knows that the populists would not come to Congress if it was not that they are poor and need the sala You know they talk just awful about every body else but themselves, and for my part, 1 think that a man who has made a fail- ure of everything he has ever done ought to make a real good Congressman, because he has his own experience alw: before him. Don't you remember that sweet t in the school reader by Patrick Hen’ ‘l have but one lamp by which my feet are guided, and that is the lamp of experience. I know no way of judging of the future but by the past.” 1 really do not think it is right of you, Bobbie; you and Mr. Reed, and the other ‘gold bugs,’ to insist on asking troublesome questions. My plan is to meet things when I must. I say give us free sil- ver, and then we will talk over some of the other questions that seem to bother you. I must insist that it is not right to interrupt or obstruct the reform movements just for little things like that.” Bobbie looked re- signed at the unexpected onslaught from Louise, but not convinced; however, she of- fered no further comment. It was Nora who next evinced an interest in the qu tion so fast arriving at a logical solution. “Now, what I would like to know,” she said. as she planted her chin in her hand,in n- a way that would show both off to ad: tage, “is the meaning of ‘silver seignix that is the question before the country just row, and not ‘free silver.’ It is a new kind | of a metal to me, and if it is any prettier than silver for toflet sets, I mean to make |life a burden to papa until he gets me a full set of it. I do hope it will match the gown I have planned for Easter, for then i can have my new prayerbook’ bound in it. “I think coining the silve: means coining a vacuum,” vy ntured Hobbie, hesitatingly, “I heard papa say that wag what the silver men were trying to do. He said they might as weil talk about coin. ing silver moonbeams as silver seigniora:ze. and that if it was not so hard on the country he would be perfectly willing for the object lesson to go on. He says a sil- ver man is ‘wiser in his own conceit than seven men that can give a reason.’ ” Jennie looked at Bobbie in perfect. sur- prise. “Why, how you talk. Seems to me anybody ought to be able to understand the meaning of ‘silver seigniorage,’ now, 1 sot at {t without the least trouble in the world, just from my knowledge of Latin. ‘Senior’ Is Latin for ‘old.’ Don't you remember, sil that about senix, senicis, and the rest’ of it? Then they just add the ‘age’ and there you have it, ‘seigniorage,’ ‘old age.’ Now, did I not work it out beautifully, all by my self, too? Not a soul told me a ything about it.” And then the whole seven of them gasped in silent amazement and awe at the daring creature who could alone and unaided tackle such a stupendous question, All but Elaine, who had been perfectly si. lent during this amazing colloquy. “You have certainly accamplished wonders, Jen- nie,” she assured her, “but you have failed to tell us what connection there is between silver and seigniorage.” Flushed with gratified pride, Jennie flung her sewing aside and plunged into the sub- ject anew. ust like papa, he says the conclusions I reach so rapidly would astonish the nation, and he has not a bit of doubt in the world that when women get to voting and get into the cabinet that T'll be made Secretary of ‘Treasu won't that be perfectly lo Then I can stand third in the receiving line with the President's wife at the state receptions and —oh, but could I after all?" And she stop- ped dejectedly. “If I was Secretary of the Treasury, then my husband would have to take the place in the line that I would have if I was just a woman and he was Secretary, and I would have to stand back of the line among the crush where Mr. Carlisle goes when he can't get out of it, and nobody could see anything but the up- per part of my dress and there never is much of that at a state function, you know. I had decided to have a silver brocaded r seigniorage | gauze with a court train lined with ermine such as the Princess of Wales wears, but if my being in the cabinet is going to c the established order of things at a state function, and put me where I can neither see nor be seen, I'd rather marry a Secre- tary of the Treasury than be one. T think on the whole that is a better plan.” “And the selgniorarge?” persisted Elaine. The Whole Question Settled. “Oh, yes. Well, as I was saying, it seems to me so queer that you cannot understand it. The first syllable settles the question for me without the explanatory ‘age.’ ‘Seigniorage’ simply means the oldest, and in connection with silver means the oldest silver in the treasury. I don’t think they spell it just as we spell the word that means the opposite of junior, but that ts probably a mistake of the compositor, like the one that got that nice Colorado silver miner into such trouble in his speech for silver. You see," said this silver encyclo- pedia, “the silver has been piling up in the treasury vaults for hundreds of years,” Jennie always was liberal in her use of figures, “until {t has got to be very valu- able. You know, old silver is worth a heap more than new, and it is only in the last few years that people have found out how much old silver there is in the treasury. Men are not supposed to know much about those things, but it seems that Mr. Bland is a connoisseur on silver, and he has been moving heaven and earth to get Congress to do something with his find. It is very valuable now, worth ever so many millions of dollars. Ages ago, when the government becan to buy silver to help the poor dear miners, it coined some of it into dollars, but you know that silver does not show so pretty through those little silver sas gold, or even grecnbacks, people got tired of the silver Was cheap, and they 4 Mr, Cleveland to call an extra ses- Congress to fix it so that we would have only gold money, and something that Ww ettier. They had an awful time of it. it was so hot, and some of them just boarded up at the Capitol.~ They forced Mr. Sher to make a new law; you know he » one who made those horrid big sil- dollars, but it does not seem to work very well. I don’t think there has been any change in the style, and I have heard papa growl more about the scarcity of money this winter than ever before. It was then that Mr. Blend thought about making use of the old silver in the treasury. I think it was a perfectly lovely idea. I told papa to get me some of the very oldest silver, and he said he would. I do hope that I have made {t plain to you all,” and she looked anxiously around. Elaine hastened to as- sure her that she had fixed things up until nothing short of a world’s fair search light could give it added brilliance. “All that you lack of being a full expo- sition of the silver question is a mint and | some metal,” was Dorothy’s comment as they folded up their work for lunch. “You should not hide your light under a bushel, Jennie. You would be invaluable to some of the new financiers. Just mention it to your father.” And Jennie said that she would, for she had long felt that that was her mission! As Dick once remarked, “that was a mighty wise old duffer isferdmortl that a little ngerous thing.” learning is a dang SENORA SARA. aera HOW A GUEST SHOULD BEHAVE. The Correct Demeanor of the Stranger Within the Gates. From the Philadelphia Times. In every book of etiquette, and in the heart of every woman who attempts to en- tertain, is laid down a little code that re- quires just such and such things from the hostess in order to make the entertainments a sucess, but how few printed or mental rules regulate the actions of the visitor wko arrives for a single evening or to stay a fortnight. In the first instance a person can be absolutely rude without intending it by neglecting certain little things that are the ball mark of breeding. For instance, at a ball or evening reception it is very bad form to enter a room without greeting the hostess. When once the hostess is seluted her daughters or the members of the receiv- ing party stould be the next to come in for courteous consideration. Our American manners have made !t pos- sible for a woman to entertain while the masculine head of the house only pays the bills. This is a great error that leads to many an embarrassing contre=mps. For instance, in many a large mansion pater- familias has been mistaken for one of the waiters. Every one should make it a point to hunt up the host as well as hostess, if the gen- tleman fs still in the land of the living, for this little courteous act, which counts 80 little with the guest, means much to the poor man who has grown so into the habit of being ignored that a small attention means more than any one can imagine. At a House Party. When a house party is organized the etiquette of the guest is even more rigorous than upon those occasions when a few hours limit the time of visitation. To begin with, @ person invited to make one of a 2ongenial party, or honored by being invited alone, should make a point of arriving at the time specified by the hostess. Once under the roof everything that can possibly be done to conform to the rules and regulations of the household should be the first thought. No matter at what hour the guest is in the habit of arising at homme he or she should make it the rule to conform to the time that has been the one in order in the household wherein they are visiting. It is very bad form and makes a most un- pleasant visitor to have a person evidently anxious to be entertained. Good form dic- tates that the visitor should accept what- ever courtesies are offered and show appre- ciation of chem, but the worst possible man- ners are those that urge the visitor to sug- gest just the sort of thing he or she would like to do and which prompt a fit of sulks if the program is not carried out to the entire satisfaction of the one who should be will- ing to be led rather than to lead. No callers should be requested to visit the house unless they are approved by the host- ess. When the family are ready to retire the guest should be ready also and there is nothing so rude as to burn the borrowed gas away into the small hours. One feature of a pleasant visit is for the guest to realize that there are times in the day when the hostess would like to be alon The dis- crimination that prompts the visitor to re- tire for a while makes him or her all the more delightful company when an hour or two has refreshed both hostess and guest and the strain of constant entertainment has been broken. A cheerful visitor is, of course, desirable, and above all things, when the hour arrives for departure, let nothing stand in the way of determined going. No matter how much the visit has been enjoyed or how strong the persuasion for a longer stay, the wise guest will depart when the time is up, for it is a level head that realizes that short visits make long friends and that the lingering which is so delightful to the visitor may not be so pleasant to the host- ess, and that the chances of another invi- tation are jeopardized by dallying over- much with the meaning and letter of the first. WEARY coe WASTE OF “TEAS.” One Society Woman Redeemed by a Samovar With a Chimney. From the New York Sun. “I have been to seven ‘at homes’ this af- ternoon,” said a wild-eyed woman the other day, “and life ‘seems to me nothing but a weary waste of wafers, surrounded by steaming oceans of hot tea! If I had gone to seventy times seven of them I don't sup- pose I would have found any variety. “I am always reading about some com- modity being called ‘king.’ Cotton is king, and iron is king, and corn is king; it all depends on the locality. There seems to be a great difference of opinion on the matter. But I don’t think any one -will Gispute me when I say that no matter what is king, tea is queen. And yet tea doesn’t exactly harmonize with some notions about wo- men. It is a ministering angel just as much in our hours of ease as it is when pain and anguish wring the brow. In fact, lit seems to me that our hours of ease ere nals for a perfect tidal wave of tea to gather and break over us. “Have you read ‘The Heavenly Twins? If you have not, will you oblige me by reading the number of times tea is men- tioned? Tea seems to be the life blood of English society, and it is coursiag through American veins at almost the same rate. Why cannot we get an occasional cup of | coffee or chocolate or cocoa? But, by the | way and the eyes of the Msparager of | tea suddenly shone with joy instead of de- spair, “since we must all submit ourse! to the rule of Queen Five O'clock Tea, should see the table 1 have prepared for her throne. “A friend of mine, a newspaper women, by the way, was poking around among the jeast side tenements for some reason or other. I never do pretend to Xeep track of the motives for her extraordianry wander- |ings. But in the course of her investiga- | tions she visited a certain 1amily of Rus- | Sian Jews, living on the top jloor of a rear tenement. As soon as my the room her eyes fell on a ovar on the board shelf which passes for !a mantelpiece. Oh, my dear! it is a | beauty! Its shape is classic, ite ornamen- tation artistic, its material solid brass. It |is a gem! My friend realized it at once and—well, in short, the samovar is now mine. “It gives a charm to my tea table which ‘isn't to be found at another New York 5 ;o’clock. But in a rash moment I confided |the history of my treasure to numerous callers, and now the indications are that T have started a fad, for to my certain knowledge several of my acquaintances are ransacking the tenements for old Russian samovars. But at any rate I ha the | glory of inaugurating the fashion,” and she turned to go, probably to an eighth “at home.” But at the door she paused, and, with an air of supreme triumph, called back: “Mine has a chimney ac ommend Disease of Makers of Melinite. From the London News. Melinite. the French explosive, is apt to poison the workmen engaged in mainag It. After some time they lose their appe- tites and good digestion, their skins turn yellow and they show signs of poisoning by the vapors of the pieric acid, which is chemically formed in thelr systems. fast the acid attacks the bronchial tubes and influenza or pneumonia may super- vene. Messrs. Sykes and Ross have also shown that similar effects result from the manufacture of roburite. The French gov- ernment has allowed the operatives in the melinite factories a ration of milk daily to counteract the poison. POINTERS FORWOMEN Lagi St on, eres Hints That Will Be of Value to Busy Housewives, A DAINTY BREAKFAST DISH Cellars Should Be Kept Clean and Dry. LITTLE THINGS TO REMEMBER nica eiaptnentions Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. If by some means a white spot has come on your varnished furniture you can re- move it by heating a fire shovel right hot and holding it close above the defacement. oe v . A nice breakfast dish is prepared as fol- lows: Put a half can of tomatoes over the fire and while they are cooking prepare and toast as many slices of dry bread as will be required for your family. The tomatoes should be very juicy and well cooked. Sea- son them with salt and pepper and make them rich with good butter. Butter the slices of toast and lay them on a hot plat- ter. Pour over them the hot tomatoes, tak- ing care to have the bread thoroughly soft- ened with the juice. If there should not be enough of the natural juice add a little water before pouring on the toast. Jt makes an appetizing dish and helps to use up dry bread, for the dryer the bread and the browner the toast the better. . ee * @ The joke about the old woman and her eggs, which would either sink or swim if bad, and she “disremembered” which, is often told, but no one who tells the stcry seems to be able to make clear the dis- tinction either. If eggs are good they will immediately sink to the bottom of a basin of water; if they are bad they will float to the top; this test is a- very good one when you wish to boil eggs in the shell and are afraid of the quality. . |_ This is to be a If you want your bureau drawers to smell Sweet, take two pieces of prizht-colored cotton bunting and put between them a sheet of cotton “wadding.” Sprinkle over the “wadding” some of the various per- fume powders, or, what is sweeter and more wholesome, make your own by grind- ing together a lot of spices, as though you were going to make spice cake or pickles, and sprinkle this over the wadding. The perfumed pad should be just the right size to lie flat on the bottom of the bureau drawer when finished. It is not necessary to use new material in its construction, and when once made it will last an indefinite time, and needs only to have the spices renewed now and then, as they may lose their freshness after awhile. > 2 6 © © Some time when your little daughter is ailing, unable to play about the room and not fond of picture books, try her with some light work. Get a ball of very coarse knitting cotton and let her crochet a wash cloth. They are so easily made that any six-year-old of average intelligence can make one. Make a simple loose chain, stitch as long as you think necessary— twelve inches is a good length—and then crochet right back, in and out, without throwing the thread over the needle. When it is square show her how to make a neat ttle scallop all around and then it is done. Such a wash cloth is nice to have in the guest chamber and helps the child, who is always pleased to think that it is of some importance in the world; besides, it amuses it, keeps its mind occupied and teaches it to be useful. One mother I know saves every bit of twine thet comes into the house and carefully ties it together and uses it for ish cloth material. 8 There is death in a damp cellar, and just now death is hunting around for damp cellars to roost in, and is no doubt finding a lot of them. If you must use your cel- lars for store rooms and pile them full of all sorts of damp lumber and other unsay- ory trash, you should, in the interest of humanity, clean such a cellar often. C lars should be aired often; on bright days the windows should be left open all the time, and once every two or three weeks everything should be taken out into the sun and aired thoroughly. Fresh lime should be freely sprinkled arouad the edges of a damp cellar, but the oniy really safe precaution is to keep it free of things that will gather damp or give off odors, and sunshine and fresh air are the best disinfectants in the ora. oe ae At this season of the ir the system craves acids. The very best acid is lemon juice, but {t should not be taken in its natural state, as it is too strong for the stomach. A good way to prepare lemons for instant use is as follows: Get two dozen lemons and roll each one separately on a smooth, hard surface until it is quite soft, then cut off the end and, with a dull knife, Scrape out all the juice and pulp. Strain this carefully through a thin cloth, then make the juice almost thick with sugar, bottle in glass, using a cork stopper, and stand in a cool place. It will keep a long time, and to make a glass of fresh lemon- ade you have only to put in a tumbler of cold water enough of the sugared acid to suit your taste. You might do this when lemons are cheap, and then when lemons are scarce and high in price you will not be deprived of your favorite beveraze be- cause it costs too much to induige. eer * So many women who have entry ways and kitchens carpeted with oflcloth or lineo- lum habitually cleanse it with soap and water, often ad ammonia, lye or wash- red soda. Two or three such washings will take all the gloss from the oilcloth and @ few more such rubbings will begin to deface the figures. And this for the reason that the soap and lye eat the life out of the paint. If you have plenty of milk, wash up the oilcloth with that, using a clean floor cloth. If milk is not plenty, saturate a cloth with coal ofl and wash the oilcloth with that, then rub with a dry cloth. The result will please you and your floor cover- ings will last longer. a It is a common habit with some people of really cleanly habits to take a drink of water the first thing on rising in the morn- ing, using for that purpose water which has stood in the sleeping room night. draught is all right, but the person who drinks water that has stood in a sleeping room for several hours is simply inviting all sorts of disorders to visit him. Water is one of the ready absorbents of disease germs, and it would be a hazardous thing) to drink water that has stood in an open vessel out in the open air, to say nothing of that shut up in a sleeping room with all sorts of unhealthy exhalations being given off from the body. water that has stood for several hours in the lead pipes; always let the water run for a few moments first. The uses to which onions may be put are so many and they have been decided by competent authority to be so healthy that one could wish they were a shade less offensive as to smell. The Scientific Ameri- can now comes forward and recommends onions as a specific against epidemics. They should sliced and placed about the room in saucers, where they will absorb all poisons floating in the air. It is stated that in the room of a smallpox patient they blistered and decomposed in a very short time. The remedy is almost as bad as the disease, but, as it is thought that they pre- vent the spread of disease, it is certainly worth trying. . . * A common error of those who have to cater to the requirements of ailing people 1s the singular persistence with which they in- sist upon such people eating. Whether hun- gry or not one should eat, is the ery. It is perfectly preposterous to advocate such a theory, because the moment that people take into their stomachs food that is not demanded by nature that moment they are paying tribute to dyspepsia. It is not an empty stomach that demands food, but the stimulus of the gastric juices. When the stomach gets out of order the secretion of gastric juice is stopped to a large extent, and to then try to force the stomach to work is like asking a man with a broken leg to walk. He can only make a stagger at it and is more than likely to add to his dis- comfort. An excellent rule is to eat only when you are hungry. eS . There are a few things that large women ought to learn at once. For instance, a large woman should never go about things with a rush. She should move smoothly, moderately fast and cultivate grace in her motions. To go rushing about like a house | afire is to suggest a steam engine, which short breath and size always seem to in-| tensify. A large woman should refrain ai far as possible from wearing light clothes. There is something about ght colored clothing which seems to increase apparent bulk. A large woman is pretty The | Nor is it well to drink| unless she wants people to no- upon the enormous propor- f these extremities. The proper thing eines women to do is to — — 5} cuous attire possible. It may the richest materials, if they can afford them, but there should be no oddities in garniture and freaks of fashion should be left severely alone. Such things call attention to a woman, and if she has the figure of & Venus she is sure to get j Bs . ‘2 season of “wash ahead of anything that has been years. ition in cont ing the impending bills ts telligent laundrywoman, whose Fie aie cht Bi i i if she her Lt for aed ved gry by warrant “fast” and not to washing. es 2 If it is necessary bread heat the bread. it will slice the bread Pee 3 Never sleep wi the eyes. The = ed to the darkest part of the room. The Lenten traveling gowns the escape ground all around vs four Sonke win: and have skirts fo cut a loaf of one large button on the bust. Underneath Epsom is the waistcoat, which buttons closely to the throat with a standing col- It ‘should contrast with the gown, . worked out with recent children’s A pretty idea was charming effect at a party. When the sweets and creams were served there was placed before each small guest a lighted candle. The candlestick peat ——y cream, the candle of an tiny pinon nut, Tight at its tip was @ &n olly tidbit, which burned a It fairly set the youngsters . ee « The advance talk of spring millinery promises all the col ; = colors of Ji 's coat epi les — that he never heard of. looks as though had been at work on oo eo 2G Se ok In this damp, changeable ‘weather com- mon sense mixed with care will save @ good many colds and “cricks” back. Never stand still in cold or damp weather, especially when in a glow after taking exercise; avoid Standing on ice or cold. Keep the back, especially the shoulder blades, well fovered, keep the chest well protected. Ni pro’ Never flowers, as well as the most nati economical, is that of appearing manner, instead of hav- ing that excessively formal appearance they usually have when packed in small vases, or when made into bouquets. They also keep fresh for a longer owing Very pleasing effects may be produced by procuring small rooted plants, such as violets, which may be picked up in the Woods and meadows, and inserting them in the damp moss, where they will continue to grow and flower for some considerable time. An it of this kind is easi- ly kept evef fresh by substituting a twig or fern or a flower as fade and are removed. Trailing plants of suitable growth may be usefully employed in this sort of decora- tion. The linaria cymbalaria, often called Kenilworth ivy; the tradescantia discolor, one of the many “Wandering Jews” of our domestic plant nomenclature, and the lysi- machial nummularia, or moneywort, are some of the plants well fitted for use jn this way. —_—-—+e- PRESENTS TO ENCOURAGE. Flowers Are t! Only 7 == to Re- ceive Even From a Fiance. Here is a custom of France which it would be well for our American young girls to re- fect upon—and to encourage. It is to re. ceive presents of flowers cnly, even from a flance. If the engagement should be broken —as engagements sometimes are, you know —there can be no horrible entanglement about the return of gifts. Flowers are per- ishable. They die with the day, but while they last they are capable of affording ex- quisite pleasure and gratification. In Fran the lover, as a rule, endeavors to send to bis fiancee each day a basket or bouquet of white flowers. And as the supply is bound to meet the demand, there are florists who make a business of engagement flowers. There is, one discovers, a etiquette about the way in which the white satin rib- bon is tied on them—true lover’s knot, of course—and we learn that the present pre- vailing mode is a basket of white flowers tied with white ribbon and veiled in white tulle. Very sweet and pretty and dainty, no doubt, but to us Americans rather sugges- tive of a baby's funeral. We will take our flowers colored, if you please—and never mind the ribbons or the tulle. 800 Healthy Perfumes. The art of perfuming in all its refinement came to us from the Italians, and it has re- mained for an Italian to discover also that perfumes are actually healthy. It is a very odd theory, but there is no reason in the world to doubt the correctness of the theorist’s conclusions. He confines his the- orizing largely to the domain of the veg- etable kingdom, including the old-fashion- ed sweet-smelling herbs that the grand- mothers loved to have about them. Among these are cherry, laurel, cloves, lavender, mint, juniper, lemons, fennel and berga- mot. He says that these exercise @ health- ful influence upon humanity by converting | the oxygen into ozone, and thus increasing its oxydizing influence. In the perfumes just mentioned there is a large quantity of ozone. Among those which he also favors as of aid in this manner, but in lesser de- gree, are anise, nutmeg and Among flowers that are medicinally qualified ere the hyacinth, mignonette, heliotrope and lily- of-the-valley, ail of which have ozone-in- closed vessels. He is of the injon that flowers without perfume are destitute of these health-giving qualities, and, on the contrary, absorb the ozone to the detriment of health. He recommends the cultivation of flowers in marshy districts, and in all Places infested with animal odors on ac- count of the powerful oxydizing influence of their ozone.The inhabitants of unhealthy regions should, he thinks, surround their homes with growing,sweet-smelling flowers, and the more odorous the better. 2 His Little Joke. Fair Skater.—“Will this ice support me?’ Iceman (owner of the pond).—“Well, it ought to! It’s goin’ to support me and my family all next summer.” ee FOR NERVOUS EXHAUSTION Use Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. Dr. EDWIN F. VOSE, Portland. Me.. says: *4 have used it in my own case when suffering from nervous exhaustion, with gratifying results, I have prescribed St nauy of the various forms of nervous debility, and it has wever failed to do sure to have | good.”