Evening Star Newspaper, January 6, 1894, Page 12

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 6, 1894-TWENTY PAGES. Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. Dorothy surprised me yesterday. Not that ‘That is anything new, however, for Dorothy s quite famous for her surprise parties, but ‘all that has gone before was not a marker to the last shock. Dorothy is given to nurs- {ng fads like all of her kind, but the charge of the light brigade is nothing compared with the energy she developes when she perpetrates a new one. It inclines me to feel as though I was sister to a cyclone, ‘when she descends upon me with her very latest, for it usually quite takes my breath. ‘And so it did yesterday when I came in from a shopping tour. I found Dorothy beaming from the midst of a pile of shim- mering silk lace and embroidery and ecstat- feally gazing at a most remarkable pin cushion which she was holding out at arm's lergth. It was a nice plump cushion cover- 4 with yellow silk and had a ruffie of the game, over which fell a flounce of fine V: Jenciennes lace. In one corner was em-| Ddroidered in white silk a spray of lilies-of- the valley. Now, that does not sound like a very sumptuous sort of affair, but it really was very pretty, indeed. It was about twelve by fifteen inches in size, and across the center formed of a double row of pins the words “For the Little Stranger” gleamed. I was naturally inquisitive, and Dorothy readily informed me that it was for “Marie's baby.” Marie, be it known, ‘was the chum for whom Dorothy had @onned yellow silk as maid of honor at a gwell wedding something over a year ago. I got as far as “Why it isn’t,” when this very impolite young sister of mine cut me short. “No, goosie, it ts not yet, but soon shall be” I was really quite shocked, and seeing that she had deprived me of all power of gpeech she vouchsafed an explanation as she fastened a great big yellow silk bow on one corner of the cushion and laid it aside to pick up a square of the finest silk flannel, upon which she was embroidering a border of lilies-of-the-valley. “You see, sister mine,” Dorothy began, “the very latest fad is for the bridesmaids ‘to obligate themselves to furnish the layette for the first baby. I, as maid of honor, am ehairman of the committee on ways and means, and we have been holding secret sessions for some time. We have got every- thing arranged, and our plans are working beautifully. The color theme all the way Yoang Debutante. through is to be yellow and white, and we shall use lilies-of-the-valley for the decora- tive design. We chose these because the bridesmaids dresses were yellow, and Ma- Tie’s bridal bouquet was hilies-of-the-valley. I have never worn my dress since the wed- ding, so I told the girls we would consecrate 2% anew on the altar of friendship. This eushion is made of a piece of it, and the lace was part of the trimming. Work for Seven. “There were seven of us, you remember, and each one is to have a certain share of the work. Rose is furnishing the bassinet. It is a dainty white willow affair, with lots of places for ribbon bows. It is lined with some of the yellow silk, and dotted Swiss} is puffed over it. The canopy-top of yellow silk and white Swiss is caught up by a yel-! low silk bow and a bunch of lilies of the valley. Nan is to crochet six little sacques of white and six of yellow wool and six pairs of bootees to match. Jennie will do ll the embroidery and drawn work on the Iinen; she learned some exquisite stitches fm the convent. Anna is making the Dlanket or robe for the cab. It is white @iderdown, lined with yellow silk, and be- side the ruffle of lace around it has a bor- Ger of the white tips we wore on our big hats. Geneva has made all the little lace eaps. Nora, who hates a needle and doesn't know the difference between a crochet hook ‘and a crowbar, begged us to let her buy the powder puff box, brushes, combs, soap cup and basket while she was in Paris. I just wish you could see them. The basket fm fine willow, with a tray, and the boxes and brushes are all of ivory, with a spray of lilies of the valley carved on them. Nora has run yellow ribbon through the meshes of the basket and put a bow on each cor- mer, and it's tuo sweet for anything. You see, this fad Is so new that nothing like it has ever been done in Washington, and we are determined to do things up in style, so that there will be no possibility of anybody ing us. I am to present the christ- ening cup, and each of ine girls will make one present, which Marie will put aside to be kept as souvenirs for the baby. We ‘would like to put the name on everything, Dut, you see, there are difficulties in the way of dving that. Isn't it all perfectly lovely?” i I weakly murmured, “Yes,” and Dorothy left the room humming, “O hush thee, my baby.” It is easier to say yes to Dorothy than to say no; that is, it is less trouole, Decause she is a very ingistent young per- gon. And though I said yes, 1 yet feel that the bloom was brushed from the grape. Giris did not know so much when 1 was young. Overskirts. Overskirts have arrived. A stylish woman an make almost any freak of fashion ap- graceful, and so it happens that on ome women overskirts really do not seem @ superfiuity. The eagle wing seems to be the most popular. It is probabiy called that Because it looks less like eagle wings than anything else. I saw an overskirted gown | @t the White House on New Year day that| was quite an elegant affair. The underskirt | was of petunia velvet and was simply a} plain flaring circle. The overskirt was of tunia cloth, eagle wing style, having a| ng point in front reaching almost to the | foot. It was short on the sides, where aj single box plait was laid, and in the back | were three godet plaits, the center one terminating in a point which touched the edge of the skirt. The petunia velvet basque had the short, full ind leg-o’-mut- ton sleeves with big shoulder flounces of the loth. The woman who wore it would have looked pretty in a six cent calico, so, of course, she was a picture t gown, with a little velvet violet-trimmed toque set above her dark hair. A fashion that ts much liked ts the round draped front over. skirt, which is lifted quite high on the sides | and disappears in the gathers there. These | ion of the front part of the bodice, which fast hence, is only suitable {, thful figures. Another style which bobs up at regular in- tervals is the pannier. It ts a picturesque feature when properly treated, and can be 80 adjusted as to be becoming tout and thin alike. I think that the overskirt cam paign has been planned by the thin sisters ‘who are tired of being set upon by their more robust kin, and in revenge propose to up the back, themselves in styles that will dis- | same guise nature’s unkindness to them, and ac- centuate their good points. I heard a thin woman say once that though she was pat- terned after a telegraph pole, she had never quarreled with fate, because she found that she came in fashion about every seven years. She will now have her day. I saw such a pretty debutante last week. She was tall and nder, with a few angu- larities that eason or two will round out, but there was character and spirit in her sweet oval face and flashing brown eyes that attracted me. She wore a white satin slip, and over it a filmy white mousselaine Ge soie that had a full skirt, with a rippling rose plaiting of the same at the foot. The bodice was modestly low and covered with frills and puckers of the mousselaine, and she wore a breast knot of lilies of the val- ley. The sleeves were two big puffs of mousselaine de sole. Her hair was parted and slightly waved back into a loose knot at the top of her head. She wore no ear- rings, chains nor rings, and as she bent her queenly young head to listen to the conversation of one of her aged guests, I could not help wishing that I could read her future. She seemed so far from the “earthy” things of earth, that I wondered if her eyes would ever gleam with unfaith in her kind, or sorrow cloud her sunny face. I felt as though I wanted to shut her in a glass case and keep her pure and clean. The sweetest buds bloom but a brief hour and then wither, and human flowers are, alas, too much like them. It is such a pity, for all the use one has for a faded rose is to shut it up in a box and forget it. A “Tollette D'interieur.” I have been studying French this week. I nad to. I wanted to read about fashions and I found that English was no longer eligible for a modiste. I saw a very pretty toilet, which I supposed was a reception dress till I looked at the top of it, when I discovered it had a choker collar. Then I knew that it must be a house dress, for it is only in public that women uncover their necks and arms. I looked up the text and found that “tea gown” is obsolete and “toilet d'interieur” is acting as its under- study. This particular gown was fash- ifoned of pale blue silk velvet, princess style, with a train. Draped from the neck to the sides in pannier fashion Is fine point de Venise. The under sleeves were puffs of mousselaine de sole, and point de Venise was draped over them in wing-like fashion. This gown would be particularly pretty on & stout person, because the lace effect would hide all signs of embonpoint. It is not necessary, however, to spend a small fortune on the dress, for it will be just as | pretty fashicned out of any of the light shades of velveteen, and imitation lace will lend itself just as readily to its garniture as point de Venise. It would also be styl- ish made of any of the light-weight wools, and when its first freshness is gone can be ripped up and dyed. Combined with some bright silk it would still be a nice house dress, or it could be made over for one of the younger girls in the family. Pursuing my investigations I found that walking dresses and ball gowns have been hung up, and the “toilette de promenade” and “toilette de bal” have been taken down off the hooks in Madame La Mode’s closet. I asked Dorothy what she thought of this infringement on the rights of a native-born American to speak his mother tongue. 1 was afraid the fad was one that would ap- peal to the Anglomaniacs, and I knew that if there was to be a new deal Dorothy would be in it. To my unutterable relief she replied that “United States” was good enough for her. It would be a great un- dertaking to learn a new language at my age. A Stylish Gown. If you want to be perfectly swell and look good enough to eat, have a black velvet Gress. It is remarkable what a softening and refining effect black velvet has upon the roughest skin, while upon a woman of good form and faultless complexion it is simply irresistible. One of the handsomest women who assisted Mrs. Cleveland to receive on New Year day was Mrs. Bissell. She is a woman of robust proportions and has a sweet, wholesome face that makes one sure that her soul is clean. Her gown that day was black Lyons velvet trimmed with cut jet, and she looked really regal in {t. I saw a@ young debutante that same evening who was also gowned in black velvet, but it wasn’t silk by about two dollars a yard. Kate, the black velvet girl, has unbounded ambition, plenty of time, and mighty little money to spend in dress. She thought very hard, however, till she planned a gown which was the envy of her set—and It is a way up set, too. She got black velveteen at a dollar a yard, and black satin at a little less. The satin she lined with some old silk, and then, from a quantity of old jetted lace, she selected figures which she basted in symmetrical design upon a width of the satin. Then she cut the lace meshes and turned them under the jet, and buttonholed all the edges to the satin with black em- broidery silk. For the back she employed two widths of satin, which she treated in the same way, making an elegant train. The sides were formed of the velvet. The rovnd-necked bodice of velvet was slashed all round the bottom and a full flounce of lace put under it; around the top there a full flounce of lace, which fell much wider at the shoulders over big puffed sleeves of Ivet, which had a frill of narrower lac where they stopped at the elbow. In her beautifully arranged hair she wore a jet | spray. Her sister made a little green velv bolero jacket for a cloth street dress nad applied some of the left over jetted lace, using gold thread to buttonhole stitch it on: a effect was extremely rich. % len are supposed to be lifted : such frivolities of life as attention te tye details of dress, but there are magazines devoted exclusively to them and they sur. reptitiously study them quite closely. In one of these sartorial art journals, whose pages are designed exclusively for men, I found the following interesting item: “The correct shirt for street or business wear seems to be of pale delicate pink or blue with cuffs attached of the same material, With this the high straight front poke of white linen tsworn by the initiated, who bend the points slightly to give ‘ow, who are the “initiated | secret soclety that behind cusses in executive sess per in collars and colors Upon the extra glazed, cream laid pages of this journal, ‘which refers t en modistes” as “knights of the needle” in true alliterative fashion, I found the follow- ing club-footed freak: Don't forget to remember That in fashion’s latest bake Our plates for bleak December Are entitled to the cake. Isn't it simply awful? This is @ season of furs. It is toy warm for them, and women undergo martyrdom wearing them, but women are always ready to die in a good cause, particularly if it is becoming. 1 saw a makeshift the other day which pleased me. It was a great streak of economy and pretty in the bar- gain. A little friend of mine had been dy- ing for a “granny muff,” one of the gener- ous big ones that will hold—well, three hands, anyhow. She had one of the stingy little seal muffs, but the pestiferous moths had dined off the center of it, leaving a big splotch of bare skin, and the ends were rubved light with much carrying. I met the little woman on the street and she had a face like a full moon, and the renovated muff. She got a yard of black silk velvet, cut it in four strips,using two for each end. These she lined with good black satin and shirred onto the muff, covering the worn parts effectually. Over the moth-eaten splotch she arranged a black velvet bow, which, in turn, hid a little pocket in which car tickets can be kept. It is a heap prettier in reality than the picture shows Two Clever Suggestions. it to be. Another pretty bit of economy was displayed by a lady who needed a win- ter wrap, but had no bank account. From the depths of an old, old cedar chest she fished a half-century-old mink cape, with long tabs. She had just $2 in her pocket book. An idea, born of desperation, struck her. She got two yards of dark brown vel- veteen, lined it with some pieces from an old silk dress, and today you will probably see her on the avenue and wonder how un- der the sun she was ever able to buy such an expensive wrap. Sometimes after a tiresome afternoon at the sewing machine or shopping one is too weary to dress for the evening. It ts comfort- ing in such a case to have something ready with which to brighten up one’s toilet. A lace collarette will ofttimes transform a quiet street gown into quite a gala affair, and is very easily and cheaply constructed. One that I inspected recently was worn at the theater. It had for a foundation some- thing like sixteen pleces of ribbon, over which was laid lace insertion and the ends pointed. From under this fell a lace flounce about fifteen inches wide. It was gathered into a cascade in front and caught with a bow of ribbon at the throat and an- other at the belt line. Another pretty neck fixing is formed of two yards of red embroidered mousselaine de soie, which is ruffled on a narrow V foundation of red silk; over this black lace was cascaded. SENORA SARA. — Winter Habits and Health. From the New York Ledger. We are indebted to our open-and-shut winters for a rapid variety of physical sen- sations. Sometimes a warm gush from the south opens our pores deliciously, and, again, while we are in an agreeable state of thought, comes an astringent nor’wester and closes them with a snap. Frost, fox, rain, snow and sleet, with other diversifica- tions of the weather drama, follow each other in all the orders in which five dis- comforts can possibly be arranged, while we keep time to the changes with an ap- propriate running accompaniment, com- prising every kind of discord which irritat- ed lungs and windpipes are capable of ejecting. Flannel or silk next the skin, water-proof shoes and boots, the avoidance of sudden plunges out of heated rooms into the cold air, the preservation of an equable and wholesome temperature in dwelling houses by means of proper methods of heating and ventilation and a diet calculated to inviz- orate and not to excite the system are among the means of protection which ex- perience sanctions. Thousands, however. of our coughers, sneezers and wheezers habitually trample upon all precautionary measures, and by their neglect of the con- ditions of health as regards their clothing, their habits, their eating and drinking, and almost everything they do and don’t do, tn- vite the fatal diseases which hover in the air at this season to come and lodge with them. —___.————— Keeping Accounts, From Harper's Bazar. To jot down every night the amount spent during the day, setting every item in or- der, and footing up the sum total, is to check one’s natural tendency to extrava- gance and to promote accuracy. It is astonishing how rapidly money dis- appears when one keeps no account of it. This little bit and that, these nickels spent for car fare, that sum which went for bon- bons, the other for soda water, the third for the trifle to be worn at the neck, or the pin or clasp which might have been done with- out, and, lo! one’s purse is empty. Some girls always have money, and others never have it, yet the allowance from which they draw is in all cases quite liberal. The dif- ference arises from the way they spend. Those who keep accounts, and who buy only what they are sure they want, are in a much pleasanter position financially than those who are caught by every pretty thing offered on the bargain counter, and who do not count the cost till their money is all gone. - Most dairies have a place in which the memoranda of expenditure can be readily kept, there being ruled columns with dates for every day in the year, and a little pencil attached to the book, so that the minimum of trouble is given to the accountant. The habit, once formed, is so satisfactory that few are willing to abandon it when its con- venience has been learned. ~+e0 The Luxartous Season. The bodices now have no darts and hardly any seams, the material crossing under deep belts which end just beneath the bust. Veivets are universally worn, and for bod- ices are cut in a new square form, with the big sleeves, which give great apparent and real width to the figure. A woman of fashion in full dress measures three feet across from sleeve to sleeve. Nobody looks slight nowadays. A year or two ago we all tried to be as slender as possible, now we are trying how well-developed our fig- ures can look, and in order not to shorten the waist the belts are often arranged to give length. Paste buckles are intro- duced on the shoulders, and they show up well with the favorite dahlla tint. Swaying fringes appear wherever it is possible, and we are grown so luxurious that we are not content with costly fur trimmings, but we are also lining our black velvet cloaks with chinchilla and other skins that are visible just at the edge of the garment and at the revers. or Touching the Matter of Sleeves. Surely, surely, we shail have to soon call a halt in the matter of sleeve distension. As it is, nine women out of ten are oblig2d to wear capes because they can’t get their dress sleeve into any ordinary coat. Kven the women with sealskin sacques are dis- consolate this year, for unless they get new sleeves put in—which takes about the whole covering of a well-xrown se. each—there is no hope of being fasht The sleeves of the new garments are tudy. Some of them are yathered like a bishop's and have a | which turns down on the hand. satin in this style was emb | over with jet in distinct renaf | terns composed of jet and velvet ar é ‘Yhe full cape on the shouliers had a ruche of feathers, and the collar, whicn ~as rot high, had a quilling of black satin ben-ath it. All these outdoor jsarments give im- portance to the upper portion cf the fg- ure,especially the shoulders end the sleeves. a full shaped cuff A blick ret all see Concerning Visiting Cards. Ladies’ cards are governed by the fol- lowing rules: A married woman in so- ciety, especially with daughters, should always use the prefix “Mrs.” Widows and maiden ladies often prefer to use the simple name without prefix; fashion dictates other- wise. A young lady in society, having passed her first season, should, if the eldest daughter, use simply, for ‘instance, “Miss Bothwell.” If a younger daugnre: she should use her christian name in full. In her first season a debutante should engrave her name below that of her mother, her individual card not appearing ull the second season. On visiting with her mother | the name of a daughter may be engraved below that of her mother; if separate, her | card should always be left with her morh- er’s card. The same applies to a plurality of daughters, the names being grouped. - WILL PLEASE WOMEN Four Dainty Designs for Stylish Costumes. THE LATEST FROM PARIS Some Pointers for Washington Women to Follow. MOLDERS OF FASHION Written Especially for The Evening Star. T HS VAHISTY OF styles and fabrics dis- played this season has no parallel in the history of fashion. Colors and textures hitherto unknown ere heaped in bewildering confusion upon the counters, and fortu- nate is the woman who knows what she wants, and has the strength of mind to look for and get it, regardless of the pretty things arrayed to tempt her into reconsidering. When, however, “exactly the right thing” has been found, the question comes up, “how shall it be made?" and here are some suggestions borrowed intact from some of the famous masters of the dressmaking art. A Recent Importation, The first illustration shows a gown re- cently imported from Paris, which is one of the most charming designs that has been sent over. The material is silvery gray bengaline with reveres and foot border elab- orately worked with silver threads. The triple cape is of black velvet, trimmed with narrow edgings of black Persian fur, and lined with shell-pink taffeta, A tiny band of fur outlines the slightly pointed bodice and is used again in deep scallops on the skirt. The velvet toque has two cunning fur tails placed a trifle to one side and standing stittly erect, while the band of fur about the throat makes the pretty wearer's complexion seem unnaturally brilliant. That ig the beauty of those dark fur collarettes; they have a way of transforming even a dingy complexion into something which may be admired. , The woman who 1s anxious to conceal facial defects, or to accentuate her beauty, follows the example of her clever Parisian sisters and keeps satins and very ight or bright colors away from her face, inter- posing whenever practicable dark—prefer- ably black—velvet between. A Close-Fitting Gown. The second costume is made of novelty cloth, showing a golden brown ground, with a delicate scroll work of willow green and erimson running all through it. One odd feature of this pretty gown is the wide col- lar, which falls on each side to form the jacket fronts. The dress itself 1s a close- ittting princess, fastened on the side, under- neath the coat. It is trimmed, as shown In the sketch, with bands and small crescents of seal brown velvet. The round hat ts of golden brown felt, simply trimmed with bows and twists of velvet, from the center of which stands an aggressive gold algrette. A narrow band of glossy seal fur is laid along the edge of the brim. ‘fo be worn w:th this are long gloves of deep brown undress- ed kid. That is another pretty feature of this season's tollettes, the wearing of long dark gloves pulled up over the lower sleeve. ‘The third design is rather odd than pretty, although the owner thinks of all stylah gowns hers is the most stylish. The velvet cape and petticoat are of reseda green, the rest of the costume being of ecru cloth with borders of cinnamon bear fur. Odd Rather Than Pretty. The cape !s after a new design, the fur extending almost t® the collar, with a broad ruffie of velvet falling over it. The standing collar is of velvet and is in one piece with the cape rutftte, forming what is known as the “Worth collar.” The long gloves of reseda green undressed kid and coquettish “Tol- quin” hat, faced and trimmed with green velvet and Mercury wings, complete anoth- er Paris creation. Any one of these designs would develop well in other combi- nations and materials, and to the writer’ mind look quite as artistic and stylish as the imported ones. Many of. the nandsomest dresses seen on Broadway are of black, and of rich ma- terial, but almost invariably show bright touches of color in the vest, coat facings, collar or cape linings. An extremely pretty COIFFURES ANDCOLOR Two Important Questions Decided by Mrs. Cleveland, A QUAINT STYLE REVIVED iewmcnliiaaiclamieas Hair Dressed as It Used to Be Years Ago FICHUS AND COLLARETTES Written Exclusively tor The Eveping Star. The New Year reception at the White House has settled the question of cofffure and color for the season, so far as the women of Washington are concerned. Mra. Cleveland set the pace in coiffuring. Mr. Edmund Russell, who claims to be the apostle of the beautiful since the Helian- thus-ornamented Oscar disappeared below the horizon, has defined coiffures as being of four kinds: “The knot on the nape of the neck is the domestic style; dropped far down the back the romantic; on the back of the head the classic, and piled on top the stylish or chic.” Mrs. Cleveland has chosen the classic style, not the Psyche, but the Diana knot, the top of which is even with the top of the head and the lower part even With the nose. If this proportion is not observed the profile view is bad. This Diana knot is quaint and old-fashioned and particularly becoming to Mrs. Cleve- land’s style. The hair is parted in the mid- die in front and parted off at the sides. The back hair is coiled in a tight knot, the center standing well out. The front hair is waved slightly, lying close for a little on each side of the parting, then it is rolled yet inexpensive gown was made of black storm serge, the skirt fitting well across the front and sides, but swinging full and stiff at the back. The bodice was plain and round, with a modified empire belt edged with a very narrow line of astrakhan, and full puffed sleeves reaching almost to the wrist. The accompanying wrap was a full triple cape with a high Worth collar, each cape and the collar being lined with crimson taffeta and bordered with bands of as- trakhan. With any costume having the stylish, full shouldered effect, a small hat is the most desirable, and if the trimming be high and placed just in front the result is most sat- isfactory. A new way of finishing the Gress skirt is to use a heavy cord of twisted silk or pleat- ed velvet, around the edge, while the back breadths are lined from waist to hem with haircloth or buckram, in order to give the required stiffness and swin| (eon up and twisted around the coll, leaving the FOR THE WINTER EVENINGS. ides fluffed out a little. At the top of the The New Game of “Desperation” ana | *00t = Saygee = wore a _ — - How It Should Be Played. gree ir pin. arrangemen’ hair line showing all around the head, an Desperation is not a progressive game, says the Philadelphia Ledger, but can be played by any number of persons more than one. Each player uses a deck of cards, He first counts off twenty-two and turns them face up on the table at the right of him. These twenty-two cards are known as his “desperation.” When the first game is begun one of the players assumes the part of the dealer, the person at his left counts off five cards from his pack of thirty-five and proceeds to play them. The first card of the five, if it be an ace, is placed in the center of the table; if of any other value it is placed face up in front of him. If the next card be a two spot it is placed on the ace; if not, in front of him—and so on till the five cards are played. Each player can only have one row of five cards in front of him at any time. The ace is then built up- on up to the king. The person who plays the king makes a “book,” and is given a chip or button. The one who gets nine chips and who has disposed of his “des- peration” wins the game. Each player con- tinues to take five cards from the pack, places each ace in the center of the table, builds on it from his “desperation” from the cards in front of him or from those in his hand, which are always held face down. The desperation is always played first, as the object is to alw: often happens that era! from it one after the other. plays as long he can build and until his five cards are exhausted. If he overlooks a card, and it is to the advantage of the next are to have him play it, he can so order im. When each player has disposed of his thirty cards the dealer thers up the “books,” which have been p! in front of him, shuffles, and deals each player in his turn five cards. This he continues until tS and dis- posed of his “despération.' effect that is most becoming and when it has pretty curves, as in Mrs. land's case. Mrs. Cleveland’s Present vie. In order to attain complete success in this style of colffure the shape of the head and type cf features must be consid- ered. So many women make the mistake of thinking that if the hair looks well in front it will also look well behind, a very serioug mistake. Both the profile and back of the head should be studied in arranging the hair, a plan which, if followed, would make a lot of women far more at- tractive. The hair line should be consider- grows thin at the edges the se- verely classic is out of the question, and only a head that is faultless in shape and that has a Madonna-like face is especially suited to the simple style that Mrs. Cleve- land has adopted. Furthermore, the wo- man who fs not blessed with a good neck iders should shun the Diana knot. scrawny one. 1 as it sounds the domestic is the only style suited to the thin neck. That arrangement partially covers up the lines that come, one od When two or three persons compose the players it fre- quently happens that the thirty cards exhausted before a “book” has been mad in that case each player in his turn moves the cards from the five rows in front of him one to the other until he exposes a card he can play. He has only one move, but if he by that one move is able to play several cards he is entitled to do #0. The moving of cards ceases ag soon as a book is made, the cards then being dealt from the thirteen cards which form the book. The greater the number of players the larger the number of cards the dealer has to handle. When starting a new game the person who sits next to the person who played first in the preceding game is the starter, and the person at his right is the dealer. The gam a most interesting one and oftentimes lasts an hour or two, ac- cording to the number of persons playing. In placing the five cards in a row as they are laid down at the left of the “despera- tion,” it is advisable to keep the face cards exposed, the kings being placed together, the queens and jacks likewise. This gives a player an opportunity to fill out a “book,” which he would be unabie to do if his face cards were hidden. In laying a card down on another it must be placed so that the under card cannot be seen—that in the event of moving the player cannot know just which card will expose a desirable one. ++ —____ WORK FOR FAIR FINGERS. Etamine is 4 New Material and Makes Effective Faacy Work. From the Cincinnati Enquirer. One of the prettiest modern materials for decorating with needlework is the wire- twist etamine. It appears to be a very coarse-meshed kind of scrim made in can- vas weave of cotton thread, so tighuy twisted as to be wiry. There are degrees of fineness in the materials, the coarse A Tollette Ren: for every five years of a woman's life after twenty. It is quite evident that Mrs. Cleve- being very open, and therefore most effec- tive for certain purposes, For a table scarf a medium grade of eta- mine is used. The pattern which is stamped upon it in outline is pond lilies and their The outline is fol- first came to the White House seven years ago she wore a few little curls on her tem- ples and rolled the rest of her front hair up from her fine forehead. Even those few curls would have been rolled up too had it not been that they were too short, having just come in after loss of a fine head of hair through iliness. The fashion, all her own, which she then introduced, was adopt- ed all over the country; thick and thin, tall and short, fair and forty, wore the “Cleveland bang,” as it was styled. Just now Mrs. Cleveland does not wear even a suspicion of a bang. The Season's Color. The fashionable color will be the pinkish purple known a8 mauve. Mrs. Cleveland's elegant reception robe of moire antique in a magenta purple, Mrs.Stevenson’s lovely gown of petunia velvet and ivory moire antique, Mrs. Lamont’s beautiful toilet of white motre, with its dashes of color in mauve velvet, and Mrs, Hoke Smith's French gray gown, with its spangied mauve velvet large, plate-like leaves. in the longest possible stitching, all run- ning length are filled with green of the shade shown by an accurate study of the natural july pad. The stems have a line of greenish brown worked closely against the black stitching, which covers the marking of the pattern. The black outlining in this, as in other designs, detracts a little from the realty of the natural forms imitated, but it gives @ cameo-like effect, which is now consider. ed desirable in embroidery. After working, the plece is stretched upon a lining of satin and edged with Cluny lace, which is headed by a band of satin ribbon. A sofa pillow of the very coarse = meshed etamine is filled with yellow silk in cross-stitch, the pattern of large pop- pies being first outlined and veined with dark red and left without filling. The de- sign thus appears transparent upon a shiny, silken ground. The back of the sofa pillow is of plain satin the color of the needlework. 20+ Randolp Dinning Tab! From Rarper’s Bazar. Miss Ellie Bouldin, who fills a position in one of the departments, has recently sold to an appreciative buyer, for the sum of $500, the mahogany dining table formerly used by John Randolph of Roanoke. Mise Bouldin is a daughter of the late Judge Wood Bouldin, who bought Mr. Randolph's country seat in Charlotte county, Virginia, together with much of his household fur- niture. In accordance with Mr. Randolph's direction, no monument has been erected over his grave. He lies buried immediately to the lett of the driveway leading up to his former residence; two pine trees, much hacked by the knives of memento-loving visitors, and a couple of rude stones alone mark the last resting place of the eccentric statesman. 0+ —__—_ For the Fair Face of Her. ‘There are few women who have not had at some time or another use for a face powder, even though as a rule they eschew anything on that order. A violet powder which can be commended is composed of wheat starch, three pounds; powdered urns, half pound. Mix together and edd attar of lemon, one-eighth of 9n ounce; attars of bergamot and cloves,each,one-half drachm. For those troublesome blackheads that so distigure the face that is blessed with the most classical features the following ccom- pound works wonders: Take kaolin, tour drachms; glycerine, 3 drachms; acetic acid, twé drachms, and oil of lemon, five drops. Apply this every night, and after a few days the black specks can be easily pressed out, or most of them will even come out by washing with pumicesione soap. A Dainty Fichu. sleeves, were all so effective in the varying shades of the same rich color that every woman who is able to afford a new gown before Easter will have it in some shade of purple, and this regardless of the fact that while a dash of one of the pu:ple shades may be worn by almost any one—provided the right shade is selected, which is seldom Jend is not partial to the bang. When she |" : : i § Fy 5 : 5 E E E : i f hi ili e g i 8 § i } | Hi k ; i Be i a i H z Ei ( i ae F i | ft e BF FF ff i i Ht ad ty i g rH A A little ingenuity and patience much, and with a roll Uttle wire and some the shade proper by cutting a strip of crepe paper three and one-half inches deep ond paper over the outer frame, cutting away, not too closely, the paper that falls over the frame. Next cut a strip twenty-five inches and two and one-half inches deep. the edge over the thumb, as in tion D, taking great care not paper. The effect is that of a (see fig. E), and with @ little practice easily done. This rufMfe is pasted over are wire frame A. Under this ruffie paste « second ruffie four inches deep and twenty- five inches long. At the four corners paste clusters of strips, which are cut lengthwise the paper, and crimped on @ hair pin, as in the Mustration F. Finish with a narrow frill, gathered on a separate piece of the binding wire, ené@ a securely around the brass ring at e top. In using the crepe paper care should be taken to avoid stretching the paper, or the crepe effect will be lost. The paste should also be used sparingly. a ARTISTIC COLOR COMBINATION, Charming Effects Secured With Few and Simple Colors, From the Jeanness Miller Magazine. An artistic color scheme for a library dining room where dark tones seen in a room fitted up by one of favorably known decorators of The shades of color used extend yellow to the bluish greens that and rich, and glass, wood, leather and metal are variously used to produce the ef- fects desired. The woodwork is of oak with &@ greenish cast, the ceiling being crossed by beams of the wood. The hooded mantel is supported by columns of glass mosaic, and each side the mantel there is a seat of green marble, with leather cushions, also of dark green. cover, of dark green leather that falls over the sides, but not the ends, of a dark oak table, is ornamented by a perforated panel; the pierced holes are outlined with thread. Work of the same kind be used to border a leather spread. A curious and novel piece of work is also seen in the settle, which is made from thousands of small squares of different kinds of wood, surrounded by a hairline of metal and laid to form a pattern. A leather window hang- ing of green is brightened by a lacquer dec- oration in the colors of @ifferent metals, and has a border of silk embroidery. Most charming effect can also be obtatn- ed with few and simple colors. Where one wishes to furnish a boudoir, for example, in light and delicate tints, a warm yellow- white may form the basis of walls, ceilings and furnishings, while the richest of am- ber, bronze-green and apricot tints can be used by way of decoration. An exquisite room may be planned from simple green 4 white. Old rose and faded blue are very bappy in combination when just the right tints to supplement each other, Dark oak, richly carved and combined with upholstery in dull red and bronze, al- ways furnishes a lbrary in an acceptable manner. Mahogany and gold, when har- monized, make a warm and rich combina- | tion of coloring. The great obstacle in the way of artistic house furnishing generally lies in the failure, upon the part of most persons, to decide in advance upon a gen- eral color scheme, and then relate every- thing else in the room to that genera) plan.