Evening Star Newspaper, February 25, 1893, Page 7

> VISITING DRESS OF CLOTH AND BENGALINE. Empire skirt. with applique above the hem and finished with deep plaits in back. The bodice is of the bengaline fastened on the side part wa; Eeries of puffs with pasementeries. ith epaulettes from back arm holes, extending to the front: plaited girdie and sash; big balivon sleeves, the lower part caught in a FOR LOVELY WOMAN. Some of Fashion's Latest Devices for Adorning the Fair Sex. ———— THE CORSELET AND YOKE. Details of Constructing Garments to Fit Well and Look Well—A Lovely Jacket for an Invalld’s Wear—House Gown and Stylish Garment for Evening Wear. eee Bpecial Correspondence of The Fvening Star. New Yoru, February 24, 1893. Y INITIAL ILLUs- tration shows = dress of green cloth, with orselet and yoke of riped velvet and full ‘:ronté and sleeves draped with old rose surab. The skirt is of the improved umbrella pattern. It is not trimmed in any way, but a balayeuse of the material should be placed inside to keep the edge out. The bod- ice is first cut out in lining from an ordi- nary pattern and care- fuily fitted. The basque , is one and a half inches | ong at the front and ‘k, but only one inch = jeep on the hips; con- sequentiy the rkirt must be made to fit well sround the waist to prevent an¥ gaps appear- ing. The yoke is of velvet and reaches from the shoulders to the darts in front, while at the back it may be olin The seams of the back lining are first . prewsed and boned and then the yoke is well stretched upon it. The frouts are sewed and boned and fast- ened by hooks and eyes down to the middle. ‘Then the yoke is carefully pinned onto them. Great care must Le taken that the stripes match at the shoulder- and are perfectly straight at the center of both front and back. When this fe done the surah is taken and arranged in three deep plaits from each «boulder at the back. It should be cut on the cross and ought to be of very good quality. as otherwise it will not drape well. When draping the front a point of about eight inebes jong is left on each side an? tied by two little knots of silk. It is afterward fast- ened into the armhole, appearing to form part ef the drapery. The surah should be fastened into the side seams and the armholes, but need not be brought much lower than the top of the corselet, a+ otherwise it will give the waist a elumsy appea: Tne left side of the dra- ery mast be fastened over the yoke with hooks and eyes, as this latter passes under it and fastens on the shoulder. The corselet can be made on the bodice or as a separate addition. In the latter case the bodice is worn under the skirt, to which it is attached by books and eyes. HOW To MAKE THE CORSELET. As it is very difficult for an amateur to make fhe bodice and corselet all in one I shall de- scribe the more simple plan of making the €orselet separately. It is made of the same Yelvetasthe yoke A lining is first cut and fitted from the bodice pattern, then sewed and boned, with the exceptions of ‘the seams at the middle of the back, the front and the sides. je corselet is now in four pieces, bh should be covered with velvet—well stretched with ps—and faced with thin Italian cloth. Both velvet and lining must be cut on the eras. The corselet fastens invisibly with hooks and eyes at the ieft side. The sleeve is cut on a bt-fi:ting lining. and the lower part is covered ith veivet, while the upper part consists of a large puff of surah, which the two points of the front drapery are Qttached. The military collar may be either of cloth or of velvet. made of good fiannel this lining is unnecessary, though the cuffs and collar look very pretty faced with light colored silk. The collar is fastened by ribbons to match the color of the elk. NEW BODICE AND NOVEL YORE. The long jacket seen at the left in the next engraving opens from the waist, and is a pleas- ant change from the perpetual corselet bodice, and is, besides, far more becoming to most peo- ple. The material of this costume is woolen goods in cream color with electric blue stripes; ‘Targe mother-of-pearl or bone buttons fasten it and lend a chic appearance. The sleeves. although full, are only very slightly raised on the shoulder. The revers are of surah silk, in the same shade as the stripe, and the full vest is of coffee-colored surah. The same atyle would look equally well in any colored striped material—for instance, two shades of green, or dark blue and red,or, for a raven-haired beauty, amethyst andold gold. For half mourning black and greyor black and red would both be effective. ‘The other gown, although so simple, is very becoming and fashionable. The yoke needsa word or two of notice, for it is # novelty, and any novelty in the way of yokes is welcome. The ritbon bow, placed at the side af the yoke, is very pretty, and also takes away from the upright bow which terminates the band the one-sided look this new fashion in sashes is in- clined to give the wearer. A RICH HOURE GOWN. A tea gown of red plush, trimmed with cream lace and s:raw-colored surah, is to be seen in the fourth picture. ‘The front is formed by lace insertions divided by stripes of finely pleated surah. ‘The collarette is also of the sarah. ‘The little girl's drens is of cream cashmere, the skirt being strewn with small pink and blue flowereta. The bodice and sleeves are of the plain cream. ‘The bretelles and flat flounces around the edge of the skirt are of corntlower blue velvet. Either your gown must be draped in front and all outline of the figure about the waist line and between that line and the bust c cealed or you must particular! these lines. One way of doing the bodice fit absolutely without wrinkle or fastening. The high collar is made of a band of embroidered or beaded stuff as broad as the neck will permit. Across the chest passes iar band and just over the bust li other. Ki a band en- circles the body and immediately be- FOR INVALIDS’ wean. ple and pretty bed jacket is pre- second sketch. Itcan be made to look very pretty of cream with rose-colored erepon. Of be more expensive and hand- cashmere be used, and then lace trimmed The material re- one and three-quarter yards of flan- made up by the most i. Hy A it BF $ inches long down pieces thus cut over us far as @ » turn-down collar for the finished, measure six inches lower corners of the cape, pins and turn the corners over, with @ stitch or two. Then put on the i ; 3 It i i é low the waist line, marking the end of the bodice, there is another band about the body. The bands across the chest and breast are curved to harmonize with the circles below, the whole effect being to give an abundance of retty curves toa good figure. Let gus hope th fashions will prevail, for the loose style certainly sets off the other and the other adds to the loose. But the woman in the loose- fronted gown, if she has a figure, isat once consumed with a desire to show the other no compensation in wearing a lovely gown when fitting ‘things anyhow and thus reveal to the world the fact which kept hidden so worries her. Itis probably true that unless all women 0 into the empire and loose style many women will refuse to. PART OF, & TROUSBEAU. The last garment shown is» stylish and novel Dlouse. It is suitable for afternoon THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D. C. satunpayt reap ydey 25, 1893—SIXTEEN PAGES. collar and the lower half of the sleeves is pleated to match the corselet. This useful and Pretty blouse will be found a charming factor of a small trousseau and also forms a conven- ient addition to the one or two dinner dresses be mea ver pace on a few days’ visit to ———__+0+_____ A MAID OF OLD. “I'll Be Historically Correct,” She Sang, . “but Spare Me the Hoop.” A STUDY OF COSTUME. “My love hath golden hatr, And eyes so blue and heart so true ‘That none with her comoare,” he bummed admiringly as she walked in. “There was a little ctrl who had a Iittie curl Right down the middle of ber forehead, and where is it now?” he went on'with malicious intent. “Dve snipped it off,” she answered, “because {t was inharmonious,” and she looked about for chair tohold ber and her new gown without crushing. “If ['ve got to look like grandma T'’ be correct on the historical issues. 1 won't wear my hair low as wo did last year with pointed bangs or one darling curl. I'll part it simply and draw it around my ears, and up again to the tip of my head like this, Do you see, vou ignorant people?” She turned around slowly for our delecta- tion before she walked toward a divan and seated herself in the negligent fashion of the girl of 1893. And as she sank omphatically her skirt sprangout and forward, revealing, to our horror-struck gaze, the maiden’s gay silk Vhat? hoops!” we cried together. jo, never; I wouldn't wear nothing but crinoline—and ruffles, stiff vet, that’s all. ‘om. It's They're Alittle arrangement may she continued serenely, be- stowing furtive but well-aimed dabs upon her “accurate” skirt. “You look rather nice when you stand up, Kate,” pursued her brother. “You make me think of lavender and lilacs and those old- fashioned flowers that end in ‘hock.’ But, by Jove, I wouldn't sit down again if I_ were ‘you. There are inconveniences in the wathetic, sister mine,” were the parting words of the 'plain- speaking wretch. “That s what all the fellows will think,” she moaned. “If you want to kuow what men think of dress just get your brother's honest opinion, “It's a sweet gown froma woman's point of view,” I suggested. And it was, ‘The skirt was double and pointed pieces of lilac velvet, so dark that they were almost biack, met in front on both skirts, The round waist buttoned on the right shoulder and the draped fullness was carried around to the left, hooking in the mid a rosette. Absurd! ~ » the elbow and over them fell bretelles of velvet almost as long and almost as hugeas the sleeves. “What shall I do? Take outa bit of the 0: ermoline?” the queried. {Nothing sould ‘nduce Teeee tH, . “You'll wear hoo “ig PiltNover! T'd die frat ———-+e+ SILVER GRAY AND PURPLE. Chameleon Fabrics Make of Our ‘Things of Beauty. Were it not for the imminent erinoline and the grinning skeleton hoop skirt stalking about in the land the world of dress would bloom as the rose. The artists, manufacturers and de- signers have given us all heart can wish in gor- geousness, daintiness, delicacy and richness, but we women, for whom the legions toil, mar their work by reviving dead and gone eccentric- ities and insisting upon the fashions of sixty years ago, which may be quaint, but can never be pretty. Candidly,canthey? But one woman's grumbling won't help much, #o I shall turn to the bright side of the matter today. And on this side are the unexcelled fabrics and garni- tures—the wherewithal to cover the dark side. We began with changeable velvet months ago; then came the same thing in satins; after that ribbons, and now we have gauzes, opalescent, shimmering, elasive of description, and woolen goods, which ship two successive tints of one color into another. Laurel greens, Russian and Syrian red dis onal cloths, broadcloths of heavy colors, ladies cloth of brighter ones, French carmelite, Biar- ritz and the dust-proof black silk of strong weave and polished finish will make our utility gowns. For the handsomer promenade, tea, Gowns roe she feels ite style reveals or rather confesses | her lack. She would rather go into tight- | IN PUBITAN AND PAGAN coLons. house and church affairs we will wear shot and ombre goods. These are combined with quan- tities of velvet, lace or ribbon. ‘A modiste who has been “creating” an April | usually wide. IN SILKs AND SATINS. Men mast Wort, vt Wonca woot weer |LITTLE CHILDREN. ‘This Summer. There are thousands of us who will be quite content with lovely organdies in set little pat- terns of mignonette or clambering wild roses, with prettily tinted challies, stamped muslins and the new ginghams, with their small spots of colored silk threads, for wiekadsy wear. Bat with a perfect riot in richness in every shop we will coax many a gown from the pockets of the providers, We won't be able to resist, for what woman, even though she bea fashion writer, could gaze on these heaped-up glories without committing sins of envy? She might even be- come a kleptomaniac and run away with a few dozen yards of imported gauzes. These cob- webby things are chiefly black, striped or quadrilled with brilliant contrasting colors, These may be dahlia yellow, Nile green, mauve, &c.,ad infinitum. There are shaded gauzes, too, in blae and green, which may be also cross barred in other colors. Silke and satins are more unwieldy, being un- They, too, are shaded from pink to green, or from yellow to blue. Over these shaded grounds ate lace-like traceries of some famous old guipure. French silks are printed with bold conven- tional patterns, others in chine figures, while satins are brocaded in the same way. Moire silks, poult de soie, outlines and satin eilleux are bewildering and beautiful in fection of their finish. k figures in set patterns on bright silks or satins are, strange to say, piquant little dashes in the sea of color. ‘One of the least ultra of these tempting dis- lays is a costume of “shadow” silk. It is pale Betiotrope, shading to wheat yellow and ‘caded with black flowers. YOR TRE FIRST WARM DAY. The skirt is an exaggerated bell, finished with cream lace around the bottom and down the front. The bodice is round,a slight fullness being gathered into a very fine shirring at waist and neck. A lace bertha—off the shoulders— 4s carried with fichu effect to the waist, Four biack bows appear to tie the gown together. Elbow sleeves are tied with ribbon and flounced with lace. Demurely Chic, It Reaches the Tip of the Mode. ‘The importers are harrowing our ronls with the exquisite gauzes, iridescent, jewel-spangled tulles and a hundred other dainty fripperies for evening wear, just as we turn our backs upon gayety to do penance {or it, IN SOBER LENTEN MOOD, ‘We must lay our ball gowns aside until Easter festivities begin, only to find them, perhaps, out of date beside these new products of fairy looms. , bottom witb narrow ruffles Just at present dealers are opening trunks of new spring wool fabrics and imported street gowns, which in richnesé and beauty divide the honors with evening goods, and for the imme- diate present surpass them in utility. Russian whip cords, vigogne, tweed, serge, camel's hair, silk and woo! bengalines, tricots, the so-called Scotch plaids, and, above all. goods in corded and changeable eifects will be fashionable for street wear. Contrasting materials to be made up with these fabrics are velvets, satin ribbons and, less frequently, fine cords and gilt braids. ¢ last consignments display the 1830 model, trimmed with ribbon flouncings to the waist, ribbon bretelles, collar and belt. The ribbon is gathered or plaited finely and is fastened to the gown in close overlying rows, which lends it a certain stiff saucins A thoroughly typical costume is shown here- with. It promises to be an extremely popular type as well. je skirt, fawn bengaline, through which run circular threads of butternut brown silk. The measurement is five yards around, while crinoline and three-foot rows of plaited satin ribbon give an additional flare. The bodice, which hooks behind, is fitted alder seame extend well over the and the hollows between the curves of bust and arms are rather heavil: ded to remedy resulting wrinkles of thi “misfit.” A folded empire belt reaches to the ine. The thoronghly novel part of the costume is -the bretelie of ‘donkeys’ ears."’ These are nothing less than a cluster of butternut satin ribbons fashioned like the ears of that animal and attached in four pairs to the gown. The largest pair reached half across the balloon sleeves. The collar is of ribbon, aged at top and of the same. Husband and Wife in Accord. Pt gown for a southern customer displayed it with | From the Chicago Daily Tribune. Pride in her show rooms the other morning. It was of a light weight, fleecy wool, in color cold silver gray warmed and softened by inter- woven threads of roval purple. It was these threads which cast the changing shadows over the wool. The shadows darkened into velvet garnitures of royal purples until the costume wasa ‘study uf light and shade.” The skirt also was pyramidal, at the base of which was crinoline and two rowf of velvet ribbon anda quaint band of white guipure dashed with spots of purple. apex was a substantial waist by a narrow ribbon belt caught with an ‘enameled parple buckle. bi staes tenet wes tasked Priscila fashion into airy bretelles on the the belt, but into Sees ae eS edd, of velvet. ———+2+—____ The Wrong Thing, as Usual. Brooklyn Life. “Women must consider it a dreadful fate to | poets be an old maid,” mused Mr. a “They do, Jomah,” said Mra, Chugwater. “What terrible sticks they sometimes marry to | through what may be called a literary escape it!” And Josiah rubbed his chin and said nothing. | future luster to ——— —+e+—__—__ A Suggestion for Our Theatrical Managers. | hardly ever ex} From Grenable’s Montaly. 4 Wid in This World. THEIR HUMOR AND PATHOS. Some Bright Sayings of Youngsters That Are Worthy of Record—A Boy Whe Talked im Ehyme, bat Who Did Did Not Make a Poet When Grown. pees HERE ARE SOME things that will never go out of fashion until uumanity iteelf is = thing of the past—chil dren, for instance. Abnormal or corrupt must be the nature that has not somewhere in ite otherwise invulner- able organization a ten- der spot that thrills at the touch of a baby's hand or the sound of a \ \ child’s prattle, The most utterly selfish and worldly man Will love his own children, though all the rest ofthe world may go to the bow-wows un- hindered, so far as he knows or cares. Many a degraded woman lost to every other decent feeling will passionately love her child and try to save it from the knowledge of its mother’ character and the influences of her own miser- able life. Years ago 1 used to walk the streets some- times with a tiny golden-haired lassie, now in Paradise. She hada witching way of ‘smiling confidingly up into the faces of strangers as we passed. and wonderful it waa to see the stern faces of hurrying business men, the sad faces of tired looking women break into answering smiles as this human sunbeam danced across the dark surface of their weary lives, No surer test of the survival of the divine spark could be applied to humanity than this, for the man or woman incapable of feeling the ineffable charm of a aweet child or of listening unmoved to its cries of fear or pain may be safely eet down an fit for treason, stratagems and #poils and looked upon with dread and sus- picion, PURE LITTLE CHILDREN. When I speak of children, I mean little chil- dren—the little creatures whom Christ so | loved—before contact with the world has | brushed the heavenly bloom from their pure | hearts, before the sweet unconsciousness of in- fancy has been destroyed and the gates of that | beautiful garden where they wander, and where | they let us wander with them if we will, have | been closed forever. The mother who deliberately or thon; lessly gives her little ones into the entire charge | of hired servants, no matter how trustworth does herself and them a grievous wrong. SI little knows what a priceless treasure of de- lightful and elevating companionship she is de- priving herself of to bestow upon indifferent and uncomprehending persons. This close, constant, loving association with little children is one’ of the most potent and valuable of formative influences, and no mother can nfford. for her own sake, to relinquish it. The loss to the child can never be estimated. ‘There is no study more fascinating than that of the unfolding of human character at the earliest period. The glimpses one geta into the penrly recesses of the child's soul! Ikuew one sensitive, loving little girlie, in whose character conscientiousness and pity were remarkably prominent. The slightest fault committed, the lightest reproof caused her intense suffering, and the pain or di of others affected her still more deeply. One evening she mournfully announced that she could not repeat her pravers—it was useless. She had been naughty. God was angry and would not listen. Where she bad received that idea of ap “angry” God her mother was at | loss to know, but it was probably imbibed from unconscious listening to reading or conversa- tion which was supposed to be over her bead and unnoticed. Asearnestly as possible her mother tried to dispel this thought, tellin; her that God was not “‘angry” when His chil- dren did wrong, but, like a kind earthly pa grieved and was forry. The ebild Itstentd thoughtfully: it must have finally occurred to her that the Heavenly Father would have a; deal of occasion to suffer, for her eyes with tears and with a look’ of infinite compas- sion she murmured: “Poor God!” Blessed child, who conld even find room in her loving pity for an aggrieved Deity! EFFECT OF A SUMMER RESORT. The same child, finding herself in the rather forlorn surroundings of an alleged health re- sort, again proposed to omither evening prayer. On being pressed for a reason, she declared: “God is not in X—town! When we go home, then I'll say my prafers Another little one liad seen that terrible sight— the chain gang—working in the street, and asked for an explanation of the striped clothes and the iron fetters. She was told that the men had been naughty, and were being pun- ished. The next time she was taken out the child escaped from her nurse, and running up toa hulking negro convict, looked up into his brutal face and asked piteously “Did 00 steal oo’s mamma’ 2 Alas, for those far-off days, when stealing mamma's sugar was the most heinous crime known to our souls! And the humor, nsually unconscious, of children—there 1s noend of it. Atiny boy of my acquaintance was taken some years ago to the Corcoran Art Gallery. Alarge painting representing the death of Moses_made a very powerful impression upon his mind and induced questions which were, perhaps, rather carelessly answered. That evening, when the little fellow's father came in, the child rushed up to him, crying in awe- stricken tones: “Bad news, papa! Bad news! Moses is dead!” A little girl {know was caressing her adored and adoring .ather, whose nasal organ is not his handsomest feature. “Papa,” she remarked, “somebody must have been ring God awfully when he made your nose!” Another little girl I know is possessed of a peculiarly pugnacious and rebellious nature. One day, being in ancighbor's yard, she noticed some heavy wool socks hanging on the clothes line and inquired of the lady of the house to whom that unusual footgear belonged. Th Indy told her that they were the socks furnished by the United States government for the use of woldiers, and belonged to her son, who bad then just enlisted in the rignal service. The = gazed at the uncouth objects with curling NDoos he have to wear them?” she inquired. “Yes,” answered the lady, to keep up the fun, “the is obliged to wear them.” the child's eyes flashed fire. I wouldn't wear ‘em!” she declared. sass the government!” ‘And s0 she would. HOW THE BABY LOOKED. Another, who had been attending a kinder- garten for some months, on being introduced to the new Baby, regarded it critically for some muments, and remarked: “Its nose is an oblate spheroid” Sea till another, tho am fast getting at from the enchanting realm of infancy, bad come, in her school studies. to grapple with that awful subject, latitude and longitude, Getting completely ng! up, child, no wonder, she excinimed; “Why ‘couldn't they have just left the earth as it was instéad of drawing lines all over it!” Thave felt that way myself frequently. Another interesting thing about children is a way they have of taking up and dropping what is called in people “fads.” nation for doing someone thing will seize them, and the fond parents are often led thereby to “ra gazing in rueful astonishment upon an at of very commonplace boys and girls later on. Ina family I know two of the children passed hopes of which might well have aroused strong | the family name. The boy for several months kept uparunning fire of 1 i proselag himself in any otbe? ‘a verbatim record improvisatore's Boor with The following 1 one of the four-' formances while of cars: abidittvathe smokestack Fes iiaTwana pretty fellow Eat elon, Pasar irtea ethan, Fee AA te 121) IMD NOT MAEB 4 FORT. ‘The unsophisticated simplicity aad charm of They Will Never Go Out of Fashion | tter gut. | of { A passionate incli- | 1 these stanzas, wherein the motif is never lost fight of, but carried out to ite logieal conclu- sions, must strike every candid mind. Friends of the family were much concerned, Dg an early grave for the author, but fears ved groundless. He is now a sturdy young- ster of thirteen, who, though an ardent reade: of poetry, never works the divine afflatus on his own account, and is mucn more likely to break his neck by falling off a bicycle or fill a watery grave than be is to die from any over- strain of the cerebral organs One of bin siaters as soon as she could wield a pen began filling blank books with poems an stories, coeea of thom profossty. tlestrated by the same hand. The following specimen work, written at the age of nine or ten, justly regarded as one of the most rem: ‘autumnal poems produced im the early spring of life ever Jed: be AUTUMN. *“The summer days are waning, The leav ; ‘The birds bi Ico Methinks twould wake me ui t The eee urs thraeh winters a Tis God who wills these blasted chills, And summer'll bring wore Gowers. ‘The peculiar significance of the line italicised will not escape anv thoughtful reader. The youthful author, indeed, builded better than she knew, but she is by no means the only poet who has written things whose meaning was clearer to other people than it was to the writer— Robert Browning, for instance, whose inter- astonished other people. The White House of the Future. ae W. Halford in New York Commercial Adver— o In the Executive Mansion of 100 years hence I think Ican see the present building as the central part. ‘There is no doubt that this bmild- ing will soon have to be enlarged. ‘There is not Toom enough in it for the family and office of jent and for the social entertainments levees which tradition requires the President to give. But I do not think the peo- pis, mill exer consent to the destruction of ‘this use. Too many memories cling about it, too many of the great men and great events of the country's history have been associated with it. Since Ihave been here I have often won- dered at the +kill with which our forefathers built this mansion. A hundred years have i ed—the Sioxer. tury ago the 14th day of October—and it isa g00d, serviccableand comfortable house still. Ite only deficiency is in the matter of room. It is stately, elegant, impressive. In its enlargement I think some such plan as that suggested by the Inte Mra Harrison will be followed—preserva- tion of the present structure and throwing out of wings on either side. That would give room for the living apartments of the President's family, for the public offices and for the cere. monial or social functions which must take place in the President's ho: The White House of the future will, there- fore, in my opinion, be simply the White House the present enlarged. Ido not believe it willever be found desirable to separate the President's residence from his office, My four earn’ experience in Washington has convinced me that in the future the private secretary to the President and his family should also be provided with living apartments in the Execu~ tive Mansion. The President of the United States finds it necessary to work nearly al | time, and when he works he wants bis private secretary clove at band. ‘This means the night as well as the day. Probably more than half the evenings of the Inst four yeurs I have spent in my office, busy | either with my own work or standing ready to assist the President. To do this I have had to leave my own home night after night, often at | much inconvenience. The private secretary should have his home ina part of the Execu- tive Mansion set apart for his use, and this ne- cessity should be recognized in the enlarge- ment of the house and should be made a part ofthe law under which the mansion is re- crented: A hundred years hence I think the President of the United States will have much less work upon his hands than he has now, though the country will be twice as great and the govern- ment correspondingly larger, for long before that time Presidents will cease to give personal ¢onsideration to a myriad of matters which now consume their time and their energies. The President of the futuro will not, in my opinion, pay any attention to minor appoint- me t post, aside from cabinet ministers and a few bureau fficers, and perhaps a score or so of the most important administrative offices, will be filed by heads of departments without so much as consultation with the President. Under the Present system four-fifths of the President's time is taken with these minor appointments, He is perplexed, annoyed, worn out by them. His energies are so sapped that it is only by tremendous sacrifice of comfort and strength | that he is able,to give thought and study to the | important and serious matters of state demand- | ing his attention, Mr. Blaine said to me a year or two ago that he believed that the day ws soon coming when a President would not permit bimself to be bothered about postiasters and collectors and consuls any more than a railway president would spend his time hiring brakemen and track repairers. My observation in the White House has been that some such change in ad- ministrative methods is not only desirable, but absolutely necessary in the near future. se Two of Butler's Lawsuits, From the Boston Globe, “Thad an important law case on,” saida Wakefield gentleman the other day. “I knew no one could win that case for me but Ben Botler. He was in Washington at the time. I went to Washington and after hard scrabbling for two days got an audience with him. He said he wouldn't take my case for $1,000 a day. He hud more work on his hands now than he conld attend to, and he went about his work right then. ‘General,’ I said, ‘I was born in the same town with you.” “He grunted, but wasn’t otherwise affected that I could see. **Do you remember little Miss-—? And you remember the boy who used to send notes to her, and the boy who used to take them? I am the boy who took the notes.’ “*And I am the boy who sent them,’ said the general. He held out his band. ‘I guess I'll take your cuse after ali,’ he said,and he didand won it.” “Gen. Butler as counsel for the plaintiff in a damage case against one of the Boston street railway companies, some years since, turned a point in his client's favor and won his case by an adroit and original move,” writes a corre- spondent of mine. ‘The accident in question had taken place in a crowded street and the testimony was contradictory and confusing. ‘The conductor of, the car on, the witness stand is swore point blank against the plaintiff. evidence was concise and he claimed to hi seen all the occurrences of the affair and de- scribed them minutely, disputing the general’ client at every turn. ‘It was manifest that if the conductor told the truth the plaintiff had no case. “The general took up the cross-examination, but the witness stuck to his story. ‘What is that?’ said the general, pointing to the bell punch suspended from the witness’ nec! “ “Bell punch,’ was the answer. “ ‘And what is a bell bunch?’ innocently in- quired the lawyer. And then followed a lengthy explanation of how the machine rang the bell to attract Passengers’ attention that the amount was being recorded by the machinery on the inside. The wi wherefores, the necessity for the thing and the company’s rules were gone into until the court was well nigh out of patience and the jury were plainly wearying. nd’ what do you do if » mistake is made and you come out short when you and the ma- chine are at variance?’ was the general's query. ‘They make us pay the difference,’ was the fon't they take your word for it?” fas ‘Well, if ther won't take your word for s nickel they needn't expect this jury to believe you,’ said the and yy didn’t, they gave the tiff a substantial verdict. T would not my readers think the gen- eral intended any slur upon the street car con- ductors, who areas honest and honorable as the rest of us. The general had a way of “‘got- ting there,” no matter who was hit. * kedge "Blessed Lad oy ber if she didn't dread again.” : | f her | The Little Lads Should Wear able | Preters astonished him far more’ than he ever | | KILTS AND TROUSERS. Valuable Hints for Dressing Little Boys. OUR FUTURE GREAT MEN. ‘What ts De- rable as Well as Becoming—Costumes for Out-of-Door and House Wear—Leggings and Jerseys. ee creas ‘Written for The Evening Ster. ERE IS NOT THE great variety in boys’ clothing that there isin Sirle’, Something new and pretty can alware be found for our little nugbters, but the bore do not fare so well. They must wear the usual sailor blouses and ready-made clothes that are seen year in and year out. Greater room for selection can be found, however, in the styles for the smallest lnds—those still wearing kilts, and even those who have just been promoted to trousers. The picturesque sailor costume, copied after the regulation suits worn in our navy, though somewhat hackneyed. is still a favorite. ‘The curly baired little fellow in the initial cut is attired in one of these charming little outfit In cold weather a navy blue reefer jacket goes very well with the sailor suit. The long yellow leather leggings so often feen are what every #mall boy needs, and when | from bright red, which we these are put on over the brown corduroy suit, with a leather cap on his head, a better dressed nd more stylish boy is not tobe seen. Wifey Be A warm and pretty house costume for a boy is the jersey suit, in either blue, brown or red. ‘They are close fitting and the body is put on over the head, as the jersey cloth is giving and flex- i ‘They are made with a broad sailor collar, which is cut low in the neck in front, the open- ing being filled by @ plain striped piece—white lines crossing others of the same color as the suit. When this boy goes out he wears one of the eo little caped overcoats and a cap to mate! The little Norfolk jacket, with two box pleats in front, isan excellent way for making # suit for school wear. With this is worn sete of linen collars and cuffs, which help to keep the boy neat and tidy. Velvet suits with broad lace collars and cuffs and Lord Fauntleroy sashes look well at par- ties, but more serviceable is the cresm white flannel, which can be cleaned when it becomes soiled. A sailor collar and cuffs of light blue ornament this little costumeand can be removed atthe washing. A blue silk sash can be tied in a knot at the side if desirable. The body should be made like a simple eailor blouse and may be gathered to a straight yoke infront or not, as fanoy dictates, For very small boys this is alsoa rece when made with lt in place of the trousers. i) Porta tg i ‘ Russian suite buttoning et the side with peat buttons, make excellent suite for boys of this ‘age. In the eighth illustration the material is fine blue and white check. Narrow blue Her- cules braid edges the collar, cuffe, skirt and the opening in the «ide of the front.” There area few guihers at the neck and waist in front, bt otherwise the is plain, It ieattached to the abort kilted skirt, which is plain for a short space in front, and also buttons at one side. A dark bine sik cord i* ted around the waist and fails in a knot on the right side. Tn the ninth illustration the material chosem for the dress is deep green serge. TI straight front, collar and cuffe shade of the same material in one piece an two double box pleate the ba row of very small pearl bi tons bor: ige of the vest on either and there are two on each cuff. A narrot crosses the vest in front and i# also fastened by two pearl buttons. The front of this dress and the collar and cuffs would also look well made id go very prettily with the green. For the street a dark ulster and cap would make thi some costume for a small boy. For another outdoor costume make a Cana- dian coat from a fine blanket. A gray one with a red border is about the prettiest. are made double-breasted and have e knitted sash that matches the border, tied at oneside. A cap with «long end and ‘tassel and bright-eol- cred mittens complete this warm-looking cos tume, and our boy stands rendy to defy Jack Frost. a Phillips Brooks’ Untiring Kindness. From the Boston Globe From every part of this land there came te him letters from people who were in trouble. For instance, soon after he was consecrated the Dishop received a letter from « widow in Min- nesota. She had been married in Massachu- setts and her husband bad been killed in the civil war. As a soldier's widow she was en- titled toa pension from the bus thie che was unable to obtein, although none disputed the fact of the busbund being killed in an engagement and while fighting nobly. But the poor, afflicted widow could pot prove that this man was her busband, as she bad lost her certificate. So she wrote to Bishop Brooks telling him of her condition and the of receiving a copy of ber marriage certificate. She only knew the name of the minister whe bad married her, and he ind diel. ‘The bishop of Massachusetts took personal interest in her case and worked hard to obtain evidence of the marriage. He was finally successful and was able to send the widow another certificate. Another somewhat similar incident is wort of being recalled. A poor young man been christened in the Episcopal Church and i became necessary for him to have some of it. He wrote to Bishop Brooks to ask if there was any way he could get the desired informa- tion. All the man knew was that he bad beem christened in sme “high” church in Montreal, but he bad no idea which church it was. This was @ very indefinite question to submit toe busy bishop, especially as there are a great many Episcopal churches in Montreal and several of high denomination. But Bish Brooks set to work to answer the man. found the names of all the churches of Mon- treal, communicated with them and finally es tablished the record of the birth. ‘On another occasion be received a letter from ®man in New York saying, “Will you please send mea list ofall the publications in your diocese?” On receiving it the bishop did wot even smile at the absurdity of the request or seem annoyed that aman should trouble hi upon euch a simp'e matter. He accepted it eometbing to fuifill. “Do you think you can find what this mam wants?” eaid he to “I gue so,” came the reply, and the secre tary, who knew the noble-hearted bishop 60 weil. spent half the mgbt completing the task. While the bishop was in Europe last summer he received a number of letters requesting small favors which they could receive just as well from some one else, and he was assiduous in bis dan early reply. One day, as I rode along the banks of the north fork of the Kentucky river, I came tow log school house, an institution neually com spicuous by ite absence in that section. It was about 1 o'clock and the teacher, « lank strip of bumanity in bomespun clothes, sat on a log watching a lot of noisy children at play. “How are you?” Isaid,as I pulled apend the children gathered around. jowdy?” be said, driving the children ‘Are you the school teacher?" “Can't you make them study?” “I've qult tryin’. “How long have you been teaching bere?” “This makes the third term.” “And you can't make them leara?” c. “Then what do vou teach for?” street, was one of the leading institutions im clupland. Some years since an unfortunate dispute led to a very large number of the mem- bere resigning. and thenceforth Boodle’s eaak