Evening Star Newspaper, May 14, 1892, Page 10

WIGS AND BANGS. When and Where the Style of Bang- ing the Hair Originated. COIFFURES OF LONG Some Wonderfal Structures Made of Hair fm Queen Elizabeth's Time—The Esqui- maux’ Bangs and the Mojave Indians’ Plaster Casts. AGO. Written for The Evening Star. OME ONE POORLY informed in the prem- ises has ventured the and“Blackwell’s Island” are synonymous, since the other and the man- dates of the law created both. A common error, repeated so often that it has been commonly accepted as a fact. His- tory shows, however, that “bangs” existed long before Blackwell's Island was discovered. The fair-haired male Franks, and not the female convicts of Blackwell, are responsible for the “bang-up” style of coiffure. ; Plouche “Long hair was the distinguish ing characteristic of the Teutonic tribes. It was a mark of = rf rank amonj 7 none of whom but the first nobility and princes of the blood ‘were permitted to wear | i wing ringlets, on “ the people to cut ay ih the middle of the fore- , head.” And this badge of servitude and sign manual of plebeianism in one century has be- come ‘the essence of style and glass of fash- AROLD MARFAGRE. fon in another. The freak of one age, the faney of another. The array of bald pates shining pinkly below the galleries in either house of Con- gress makes more forcible the singular fact that the first mention of long hair should indi- cate aman as its or. The incident is not very fresh in the minds of the present gen- etation. but there are still Samsons and Delilabs. Tn those early days the men were the ones whose domes of thought required particular attention. and the ancients, like the Indians and orientals, looked with suspicion upon men who neglected their heads, and a bald-headed man was an ob- of derision. The first bear story on record connected with a bald-headed man, and illus- trates the irrepressibleness of the small boy even in the morning of time. PRIDE IN THE BAIR. It was « man’s pride in his flowing locks that brought » kingly house into disrepute and wrenched King David's heart with anguish. A bit of ancient doggerel recites: Ei Ifthow hale worn a periwie ‘Thou hadst not beeu undone.” David had long been gathered to his fathers | 17 when » wigmaker of London thus advertised bis wares, so no suit for libel was ever instituted. It is no doubt revolting to the master minds of today, but none the less true, that the men of the early ages were extremely vain of their forms, their apparel and their hair. THE HAIR OF THE DANES. \ The Danes -had beautiful heads of hair and Hagold Harfagre was dubbed “Fair Locks” be- cauge of the length and fineness of his hair, which is said to havebeen like golden threads. He made 2 vow to his mis- tress to neglect his pre- cions locks till he bad completed the conquest of Norway, and all for love of her. ! Men don't do those things for women now. but they swear by all the gods of war to go unshaven and un- heir political am- e In the twelfth "In the nineteenth it is termed THE MURDERER'S Locks. In these days the condemned murderer has his hair clipped and gives the locks to his maudlin women visitors in exchange for the flowers and love notes bestowed during his trial and incarceration. ‘The Danes were dadish, but they were not mawkish. They kept their “tint-white” locks intact and begged the execu- tioner to carefully push aside the fair ringlets that they might not be stained by blood. old Anglo-Saxon poem Beowolf tells of : ““The long-haired one, rious im battle, ‘The bright lord of the ad About the time thePlan- tagenets came on the scene of action men be- gan tocut their hair in the bowl fashion about the neck—which is +o harrowing to the soul of the small boy who suf- fers from “home-made” hair cuts—and and bear day cH, ef th CHARLES 1. the misses a striking resemblance. From the beginning of time a fine head of Bair bas been « desideratam with both men and women. A luxuriant head of hair and a Jeaf kirtle formed the whole wardrobe of fother Eve, and she probably spent many a happy hour twining the flowers of sun-bright Eden in her long plaited locks. This trait, like many others, hax been transmitted to’ ber daughters. In the Bible the attention to long hair is execrated more than once, and in the eighth century Bishop Sherborne wrote Deantiful women “whose twisted | delicately curled by the iron adorning her,” and in an Anglo- Saxon poem, entitled “Judith,” the heroine is called “the maid of the Creator with twisted locks.” Even at that early day it seems to have been true that “beauty draws Just as tiow, for some men ‘thread of golden hair toying with a vest bution, a outlining a or ornamenting a coat sleeve can draw lectures from a black-headed wife warranted to bleach to silver even Mr. Candle’s hair. The tonsied front e hose the one originated with |* pieces of the present «J day were extremely Nisshionable in the ‘seventeenth century. PX, Randle Holme says: 1. “Some term this enried q U> torebead_a *bull head,’ ‘Tur MODERN EA. from the French ‘taure,” Decanse it so much resembles the curly fore- top of the tau Anybody who haa ever seen the male of the American bison can appre- ciate tbe pointed bit of satire. ‘THE BANGS OF THR ESQUIMATX. The Esquimanx men and women wear the Dang, but it is a fringe of straight hair unfretted with hot irons and crimping pins. The dis- mark of the Pueblo Indian is also ‘Their shocks of long, wiry black are cut straight acroes the forehead, just above the evebrows, and worn flowing in the back, with a bright-colored scarf twisted turban-fashion about the head. PLAITS AND BRAIDS. In very early days, as now, the hair was some- | SYT8* times thin and it had to be eked ont in various ways to make believe that nature had been £ i & 28, if it fl fr F Fe r f h nt | i ‘WIGS AND FALSE HAIR have always prevailed to some degree, but in the sixteenth century they were more atro- ciously vulgar than at any other period. A writer of that day says: “A great lady should not wear her own haire, for that’s as meane as a cont spinning!” The virgin queen evidently believed in the trath of this, for #he had eighty in her collection, and her cousin, Mary Queen of “ae many as a hundred,’ among the iucongracen recente sande her while core fined prisoner in gloomy Lochleren, to her being beheaded, wigs were numerous! Gentlemen who particularly wished. to their lady friends presented them with wigs of the latest shade ir of coiffuring. Fancy a gentleman of today pre- senting his sweetheart the newest thing in ven- tilated bangs or the last swell idea in back hair! QUEEN BESS IN A RAGE. It is recorded of Queen Elizabeth that when she was in one of her “rages,” which seems to have been not infrequent, she neglected to change her wig or rai- ment for dnyeat a time, and swore roundly at and newest plebeian carroty red at that, and her favorite steed was snow white, the term “red headed” horse canara might be chased to cover. upon the atrocious rej resentations of the early artsand marvel at the mental obliquity which ade hr blue and green and yellow. e artist understood his business, for the people of his age had hair like the rainbow. They got it by dyeing in some instances and powdering it in others, These prismatic instincts died out finally, and nature asserted itself, except when a blonde chose to make herself bizzare in black-dyed hair ora brunette with hopelessly yellow skin transformed herself into a mulatto by bleaching her haira muddy yellow, customs still in vogue, as no century seems to have @ monopoly on sense. ‘The foliowing poem from the gifted pen of some lady writer of that day, barring the or- thography and quaintly awkward expression, it po Se 18TH CENTURY. might have been written for today: “For Lwill have my pomanders of most sweet smell, ‘Also my chaines of folde to hang about tay mecke, And my ‘broidered hatre while I af home do dwell. Tush! Tean dye my haire: be it never so blac Tean make it shine lige golde ina I e ttle space." Algo to tie up may head T have such a knack ‘That some maides will delight to follow Tean lay out iy hair to set out my face. Phillip Stubbs says of the arrangement of the hair during the time of Elizabeth and Mary: “It of force must be curled, frisled and crisped, laid out in wreaths and borders from one ear to another, and lest it should fail down it is un- derpropped with forks, wires and I cannot tell what, rather like grim stern monsters than chaste Christian matrons.” AT THE CLOSE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. The most elaborate and atrociously hideous hairdressing the world has known was in vogue at the close of the eighteenth century. Stew- art, the great hairdresa-_- er, says: “At no period & in’ the history of the g@ world was anything more absurd in head- dress worn than at this time. The body of these monuments of ugliness was formed of tow,over which the hair was turned and false h ied, in great ew bobs and ties, and pow" dered to profusion, then hung all over with vul- garly large rows of arl or glass beads, 4 it only to decorate a chandelier; flowers as obtrusive ‘were stuck about this heap 18TH CENTURY. fine? ich was surmounted by broad silken bands’ and great ostrich feathers, until the headdress of u lady added three feet to her stature.” In 1782 it would appear that the women wore their hair to the play, to the discomfiture of those who wished to view the stage. In 1892 they wear their hata. One has gone, the other should go, to the shades of oblivion. ANOTHER UGLY STYLE. Another style that was so incomprehensibl; ugly was the combing of the hair straight up, back and front, over a cushion a foot high, the sides decorated with tier ontier of curls. This was called “the Indder.” This abomination had to be plastered up with flour and pomatum to keep it in shape, and as it wasa work of hours to build it up it was pre- served as long as possi- ble. Sometimes a lady would have her hair in- tact in such a pile for two months. A barber of that time quaintly observes, “That is, ax long as the head would Iny trace; keep. - Shades of unclean- ! Eight weeks with uncombed head, heated with that pile of wool, false hair, stinking grease and rotten’ flour! pes of the day prescribing **snre cures” minators of the insect life that had its tin that vanity’s mountain of filth tell the o'er-true tale of the neatness of that horrid fashion. THE MOJAVE INDIANS follow this “ladder fashion” —minns the enrls— but for vastly different reasons. The toilet |most as any other. articles of the Mojaves are few and simple and combs are not enumer- ated. ‘These Indians in- habit the Mojave des ert, along the Colorado river in Arizona, a place which Sheridan char- acterized asa few de- grees hotter than Dan- te’s Inferno. When in full dress the Mojave wears a string of beads and a bandanna a handkerchief. His hair. yosav INDIANS. being particularly luxuriant and unacquainted with brush or comb, y “lively” at ti il nd simple receipt for expelling all intruders. A pastry Ynush of clay and water is made; with this the head is saturated, the hair drawn full length above the head and then rolled up. When the job is completed the hair stands up in full round pompadour from the face, and ix cemented by the mud in © hard mass, which kills the vermin, excludes heat and saves troable in arranging the hair each day. When the summer isended the Mojaves soak their heads till the mass can be manipnlated, and_in the winter their toilet is enhanced by flowing locks. u A REVIEW OF THE STYLES in coiffuring from Mother Eve to the present day confirms the belief that this is the era of sense in hairdressing. Since the 2s ance of the wigs and enormous puff caps and curls of Martha Wash- ington and the “rats,” \d jute switches of the ixties not a t deal of fanit can found jwith the style in whieh ‘women dress their hair, though in their zeal to be in fashion women PUEBLO INDIAN. often fail to be ar- tistic. A Psyche knot sek of 2 eg nose ine: incongruous a not coi for ® woman of knitting ‘anatomy always excites one’s risibl ‘These, however, are the exceptions, and the to look very fad of shining hates becamee one fects Intact of i one: ively pens = so TO STUDY THE PALM. How to Read Character by the Lines of the Hand. CHIROGNOMY AS A SCIENCE. How It May Be Acquired, but to Become Proficient Will Require a Good Deal of Hard Work—Some Typical Hands—Im- portance of the Thumb. Written for The Evening Star. OUNG SNOODKINS ‘has given up palmistry and declares there is nothing in it; but then, may not palmistry have given young Snoodkins up? May he not have been one of that class of men who practice the art more for the pleasure they derive from it themselves than from any real knowledge they are able to impart? Of all the arts it is probably the pleasantest, for it necessitates the holding of another person's hand in yours, and if the other person is young and the hand is pretty, and if the other person is a woman, why, the science of palmistry is worth studying. It is quite surprising how quickly a palmister tells the fortune of a man or of an ugly woman, and it is very strange how long it takes for him to make anything out of the hand of a pretty young girl. Nevertheless, although this is the form that the ordinary par- lor palmistry takes—being nothing, in short, but a delusion and a snare, although it does not delude many people, it must be confessed—there is, in the opinion of many people, a great deal in this subject of the study of the hand. Can anybody, for example, pretend that there is nothing in the study of the human features? Do you not judge of another man’s character and disposition largely frem looking at his face? You frequently made mistakes, it is true, plac- inga good man among the bad ones or declar- ing that aman has a good temper when in reality he has a bad one. You look at a woman | whom you have met for the first time, and you say to yourself, ‘That is certainly an angel in temper." You’ marry her, perhaps, and you find out that if she is like an angel, then an; must be pretty hard to live with ateadily. these things are exceptions, and do not inter- fere with the general fact that people form their estimates of one another largely from their physiognomy. TRE STUDY OF CHIROGNoMY. But why shouldn't the hand tell us something of a man’s character and disposition as well as his face? Of course you cannot expect it to do so in the same degree, because all men, more or less, are physiognomists, whereas few know the different kinds of hands; but after testing a few hands by the simple rules which will be laid down here, it will be found to be a method of judging men's character as natural to use al- When you look into a stranger's face see if his hands confirm or alter the impression his face makes. This branch of the study of the hand is more correctly termed chirognomy, just as the study of the counte- nance is physiognomy. The band is the key to the heart, and the say- ing that some men wear their hearts upon their sleeves would come nearer to the truth if it were changed so that it read, every man’s heart is visible in his han y enough about hands to read it ‘correctly. The | gipsy who tells your fortune for a half a dollar | is usually a fraud and hasa series of ‘beautiful | blonde ladies” and “tall dark gentlemen” and palaces and funerals and such paraphernalia of jer trade, which she trots out whenever you have paid her, and if you give her double ‘her usual fee she will give you double the usual | amount of good fortune. Ifthe true study of the hand has ever been pursued by these char- latans they know that it” would not do to make use of it, for, as the late P. T. Bar- num used to say, people, and especially the American people, like to be humbugged. But there is a very good chance of finding out whether there ‘is anything in the study of the hand, pursued ona reasonable basis, open to every observant resident of Washington, Here you can go to the Capitol any day and study the hands of the Senators and members, As you know pretty well what sort of men many of them are, you can apply a few simple rules bear- ing upon the hand and see if their characters correspond. If you xpply the rules correctly and have a genuine knowiedge of the man to whom you apply them, you ean very soon come to a conclusion about the science of reading the character from the hand. A PRENCHMAN’S THEORY, D’Arpentigny, a Frenchman, went into this subject a great many years ago and endeavored to show that “every mental organization is uni- formly accompanied by a certain definite forin of the hand.” He spent thirty years of study over it, and gave the namé of ‘chirognomy to his newly invented seience. Another Frencl man, named Desbaralles, made a scientific in- tigation also, and he came to the conclusion “that the vital action of every organization tends to develop certain lines and marks upon the susceptible surface of the palm” of the hand, and this he called chiromancy, and it is simply the old-fashioned palmistry, which has n lately revived and is now quite a fad of people in societ: In chiroguomy the two great classes of man- kind are the smooth-fingered and the knott; fingered. The former are people who ree i i who are not disposed to ly aud who are apt to act on impulse rather than calculation. People with knotty fingers, on the other hand, are more re~ flective and practical and have orderly minds. Of course, these two classes are too broad to be accurate, and of each there are subdivisions, ‘To take up the fingers, it is found that those that are “*patulous”—that is, with spread-out ends-—belong to people who are fond of exer- cise, manual occupation and practical sciences. They are useful people, who are not much given to theories and are not fond of books or purely mental pursuits. Fingers which are square at the ends indicate tharacter prone to symmetry, mathematics and a love of custom and routine. Oval or pointed fingers are the property of enthusiastic people and poets. Painters, musi- cians and religions people are supposed to have fingers of this kind, Can any one remember a description of an; American public man which represents his ha ing a fat, smooth hand? Hands of this kind are passed over as being no part of the character of a man of force. On the other hand, the long, bony fingers figure quite frequently. John Randolph of Roanoke used to point his knotted forefinger at some cowering opponent and no one forgot his speech or the hand of the man who made it, and John C. Calhoun is painted with long, thin hands, the joints prominent and the fingers spreading out.“ Henry Clay's is familiar to all of ta, and Webster's, which had more flesh on it than those of the others, was one of extraordinary power. THE DMPORTANCE OF THE THUMB. ‘Now comes the great thing to be considered in the science of chirognomy—the thumb. It is supposed to be a more important exponent of | @! character than any other feature of the hand, and a epecialist might spend a great many years in studying it before he could hope to come to an end of his labora. A large thumb, it is said by the chirognomists, means s profound thought, great will power, and but little sympathy. A small thumb means a weak and irresolute mind. In point of fact the great minds of the world have usually had great thumbs, and Voltaive’s are said to have been enormous. Gen. Wash- as It means a brutish nature, capable only of a lower order of thought and Pithout any of the higher sensibilities. 16 ie of ‘The artistic Del has emooth and ‘The palm fed” and the thumb—also “pointed—sym- Ietrical. “It is supposed to belong to poets or others who are especially imaginative. Here is the science of chirognomy in a nut widen ond let fie seaaibiatonn wn bo ak ol can lowed ont to suit the fancy of the individual student. HARD STUDY NECESSARY. Now, as for chiromancy, or the study of the Hines of the palm of the hand, any one who pretends to take up this study must be prepared to devote a great deal of hard work to it. No two hands are alike,and to know the meaning all the lines in one hand is not likely to assist you beyond a certain point in the study of an- other hand. There is the line of life, the line of the heart anda multitude almost of other lines, Besides, this the mounds of the hand must be considered in connection with the lines, and the whole must be dependent to a certain extent upon the general shape of the hand, or, in other words, upon chirognomy. | There is cue great advantage in the palm reading over the chirognomy—in the former it is necessary to hold the band, the left one preferably, for some time, to gently press it in order to ascertain whether it is or soft, to squeeze it quite hard #0 as to make sure on this point, to strike it on the back and in the palm, to pat it to see if there is much blood in it or whether it is quite white, and ome palmisters insist that its trae characteristics are only to be ascertained by kissing it. To go a step further, it mer be added that ny man who wi ta ring upon its fow inger will “find out the character of its owner thoronghly well. eR ay THE CONFEDERATE TREASURY. Lincoln’s Brother-in-Law Tells How the Last $70,000 Was Divided. From the Atlanta Constitution. Dr. C. R. C. Todd of Barnwell, 8. C.,a dis- tinguished surgeon of the confederate army and a brother-in-law of Abraham Lincoln, as well asa connection by marriage with the Breckin- ridge family of Kentucky, during his younger days was often thrown with Abraham Lincoln, who married his sister. ‘Thus, by family ties | and by association, he is closely connected with Breckinsidge and Lincoln, who were both presi- dential candidates in 1860. Dr. Todd was in charge of the confederate hospital at Charleston under Gen. Hardee, and was with the party of the fugitive confederate cabinet when it disbanded, He describes the division of the last money of the confederate treasury—a matter of much discussion in the newspapers a few years ago. “A great deal has been said about it,” said he, “but, so far ay I know, no description of it is on record. I was there’ in the room when the money was paid ont,and saw the whole pro- ceeding. Indeed, I am partly responsible for the division of it ut the time. “I had been with the soldiers coming down and I heard the Ken- tucky and Virginia troops saying they were going to have some of the money or have Dood. I told Breckinridge, who wax the sec- retary of war, what I had heard, and said that there might be rioting and bloodshed. “There may be rioting,’ said he, ‘but no bloodshed.’ I'then suggested to him’ the pro- priety of a division of the money among the soldiers, and he replied: ‘We will see about it.’ In the party were the confederate cabinet and the officers of the four brigades of troops which were with us when we crossed the Savannah river. We had the last money of the confederate treasury—&70,000 in goli and silver, besides some gold belonging to the Bank of Richmond. ‘The money was in charge of Col. Morgan. « brother of the famous John Morgan. We crossed the Savannah river on pontoons and went on the road toward Wash- ington, Ga. When we had gone two miles from the river we stopped at a log cabin on the south side of the road, and there the $70,000 was paid out. Mr. Davis had gone on about four miles ahead of us with his staff. “In the cabin were John C. Breckinridge, secretary of war; Judah P. Benjamin, w! looked us scared as the devil and appeared to be panic stricken ; Gen. Bragg, the commander of the four brigades, and Col, Morgan, who bad charge of the money. “The division was made by a caucus of the men, Those present were Vaughn's, DeBrell’s, Basil Dukes’ and Humphrey Marshall's brigades, Mar- shall was then under arrest, and his brignd in charge of Col. W. C. P! Breckinridge. census of the soldiers was the reverse of Porter's. Some of the brigades returned fictitious names in order to get more money. The division was .25 for each man, officers and common soldiers faring alike. Some of them, by stuff- ing the census, got as much as $36 a head. Divide £70,000 ‘by 26'¢ and you will see how many (2,666 men) were returned by the census of the four brigades. In the paying out we finally came toa keg of silver ingots—pieces 3 by 4 inches square. They opened a box of gold belonging to the Bank of Richmond. It was about 18 inches long and 10 or 12 inches wide, and contained purses of gold. They made a Lough estimate of the value of that gold and of the keg of silver and exchanged them. In that way T got some gold. ‘Then they carried the Bank of Richmond money to he bank at Washington, Ga., and deposited it. hey took none of it, except a little box, for which they substitute@ the keg of silver in- gots. While the money was being divided out Col. Morgan paid a man #5 an honr to guard it. When we got through Morgan took the remain- ing money and drove it away in the dark. Thence it landed in the bank at Wachington, Ga. I know only by hearsay, but am satis fied that the information was correct, that the Bank of Richmond sent for its money and on its way the men guarding it were attacked by marauders, ‘The guard was temporarily dis- persed and the marauders got some of the money before they were driven off.” ——-e-—___. They Live in the Mud. “Two curious little fishes live in the mud,” said Prof. Theodore Gill to a Star writer. “One of them was only discovered recently. It was called after myself, by way of compliment, being named the “Gillichthys.’ My namesake is a sort of goby, from six to eight inches long. Itdigsa hole in the muddy bank ofa tidal creek, at the bottom of which it sits and medi- tates, being kept wet by the percolation of the water through the surrounding mud. It fesds on small erustaceans largely. One remarkable thing about the Gilllichthys is ite mouth, which is about one-third the length of its body. It is ood to eat, and the Chinamen in the neighbor- cod of fan ‘Prancisco dig in the marshes for specimens, “The other mud fish is a natiye of the South Sea Islards, and ia found on other tropical coasts. Ii hops about on the mud banks when the tide is out, being apparently as much at home on land as in the water. People call it the ‘jumping fish.’ Sometimes it will climb the roots of trees on the shore, making its way up- ward by means of its pectoral fins. Often it_oc- gupics the holes made by ddier erabs.| When it 1s hoppinggabout on the mud it is usually in pursuit of crtstaceans or of a peculiar kind of slug that affords its favorite diet.” phan ttachat Electricity for Domestic Use. From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat. In a recent lecture in London, in which the practicability of electric ventilation, electric knife cleaning, electric hat and linen ironing and electric cooking were fully demonstrated, poses not been brought owe, 0 fhe coonomial bas” tat Sal rmit the enjoyment of the luxury rsons Of limited incomes. It was foon! that it cost about 4 cents an hour to main- tain tem- RECEIPTS FOR BEAUTY What a Highly Respected Matron Says of All of Them. THEY MAKE HER TIRED. None of Them Are of Any Value—A Pleasant Countenance and a Correct Carriage of the Body Do More to Make Woman Beautiful ‘Than All the Nostrums Advertised. Written for The Evening Star. F I WERE IN THE habit of using slang,” remarked a highly re- spected matron of highly respected North- west Washington, as re- adjusting her gold pince nez she took another glance down the columns of her Sunday paper, “I would be strongly tempted to say that all these recipes for beauty - . that occupy a good part of every paper one picks up make me tired. “Now, [myself have a formula for beauty making that is not only efficacious, but which possesses the additional advantage of brevity, 80 that if it were tobe printed even as often as once a week there would yet be room in the newspaper columns for something beside the modus operandi for steaming one’s face or the elaborate directions for compounding cos- metics. “Why, my goodness!” she exclaimed, throwing down the paper in disgust, “if one were to fol- low all these suggestions for improving one’s appearance there wouldn’t be time left for any- thing else. The wood would remain unhewn and the water undrawn as far as any assistance from womankind was concerned, for she simply wouldn't be able to get an hour off from her arduous employments of manufacturing beauty brews and applying them to some portion of her frame. And how the originators of these devices con- tradict themselves!” rhe went on. ‘*Why, one of the most prominent writers on the subject— what is her name?—will tell you one week that really the only thing for the’ hair is a prepara- tion of soap bark, and a few days efter you will read where this same wiseacre has averred that your hair's salvation depends upon a beaten egg being rubbed into its roots, and a week later rain water in which a saturated solution of borax and camphor has been introduced is pro- nounced the ultimatum on huir restorers. In- deed, if these writers’ inconsistency didn’t en- rage me I couldn't help but admire their in- genuity, for ——" “But what is your recipe for beauty?” inter- Tupted a freckle-nosed young lady guest, who having run the entire gamut of freckle eflacera from lemon juice up, hoped at last to hear of a sovereign cure for this particular ill to which ‘My ? Oh, yes; I nearly fdrgot. It is simple, you'll see at once, for it consists merely of two ite First, to wear a pleasant expres- sion of face, and, second, to carry one’s self cor- rectly.” The freckle-nosed young lady guest looking both disappointed and skeptical at this, her hostess reiterated in somewhat argumentative accents: “Indeed it is 80, just two items, to look pleas- antand to stand straight. They are the im- portant points and for the simple reason that they contribute more largely to one’s general effect than all the other detuils put together, and it is a general good effect that one should strive for rather than this or that pretty detuil, for we all know the woman who has one or two pretty pointe that still fails of being, benutitai becase her general effect is poor, while another who, according to the artistic standard, fall short in finish of detail, bas notw ing an ensemble that leads her to pass for a uty. “Of course it goes without saying that every self-respecting woman will, to begin with, be as clean as possible—yon remember what Beecher says about a cake of soap being the first means of grace—and dress as well and as harmoniously as her means allow. All this is understood. Well, then, what is it that attracts you most in & woman? ‘Her expression of face, is it not? For if this indicates narrowness of thought and pet- tiness in her standards you don’t like her even if her complexion is the proverbial milk and roses, whilea very indifferent complexion is lost sight of if there is a look back of it indicating the presence of any of the graces of soul.” he freckle-nosed young lady here looked as if she wished it were not impoli rejected paper from its ignominious position oa the floor and see what she herself could make out of the beauty column, an expression which the highly respected matron took no notice of but continued: “And since a correct carriage is neither more nor less than a good expression of the body, why, thissecond condition of comeliness is really only a continuation of the first. If you are walking behind a woman who carries herself well isn’t there an expression of self-respect and frankness and force in her mere attitude with- out seeing her face at ali which the pose of a round-ehouldered, awkward sister by no means quite of the opinion of the Del Sarteane,” went on the highly respected matron, “that the body is capable of as much expression a the face, and if women only realized as they grew older how much a proper carriage of it had todo with deceiving the public into thinking they were still young they would spend less time on complexion bemitifiers and more on physical culture, for there is nothing that will make a woman look so old a8 a drooping, weak- backed, crane-necked way of sitting and watk— ing. She looks immediately as if the world and time and everything else hed got the better of her. Why, even a round-shouldered child has a look of youthful decrepitude. “once read,” said the highly respected matron, at which prospect of literary reminis- cences the freckle-nosed young lady wearily in- clined her head backward into the depths of her velvet chair and fervently hoped that the car- ringe for church would be announced, “some- thing to the effect that in evezy individual, however ill dressed and demoralized mentally and morally, there was yet the possibility of beauty, and since then Ihave found it an ex- cellent time killer when I am obliged to wait in depots to attempt to discover this latent loveli- ness in my fellow beings. Sometimes it is all but buried, I’ve even had to go so far now and then as to mentally wash some individuals’ faces before their beauty could be exhumed, but given in imagination a suitable dress, an’ ami- able and intelligent expression of face and an upright and graceful carriage, and any one, whether short or tall, or ‘whatever: his style of features, will look well, for indeed ‘what is good looking but looking good.’” “But supposing these people haven't any amiability of nature or sny gracefulness of spirit to put into their faces and forms, what fare you going to do then?” inquired the freckle- nosed young lady, roused toa languid interest by so preposterous a theory, and’ who seeing, too, that the highly respected matron was bent on ‘talking till church time, wisely concluded that more entertainment could be got ont of a dialogue than a onologse, “What then?” repeated the highly respected matron, looking, with a reflective pucker on her brow, into the open fire, from whose flames she must have gathered some light, for afte a brief emphasis: use she went on; with her old ‘What then? Well, Ishould most decid adviee the woman so. unfortunately situated as all that to assume the outward guise of the good she did not possexs; to adopt the erect, buoyant carriage that hope, the serene face that indicates faith in the universe, and to sist in it, for while one may put on the mask of virtue for a few minutes or an hour without the the | Teal nature being affected, one couldn't do it for month ora year without the nat al Youve becca of tee ©, SATURDAY, MAY’ 14, 1892-SIXTEEN PAGES. _ Edgar A. Poe's First Book. From the Boston Herald. One of the rarest of American books is the tiny pamphlet entitled “Tamerlane and Other Poems,” by » Bostonian, printed in 1827 by Calvin F. 8. Thomas, who had his office at the corner of Washington and State streets, Boston. The author of this little poem was Edgar Allan Poe, then in his nineteenth year, friend- Jess and penniless in a strange city. For some unknown reason thia little pam- phlet was almost immediately suppressed after it got into print, and in Oetober of 1827 both the poet and the publisher had left Boston. Of the Publisher no further trace has ever been found. The only original copy known to exist is the one acquired by the British museum in October, 1867, just forty years after it was publishe In 1884 Mr. George Redway republished thi little book from the unique copy in the London museum, adding-a preface by Mir. kk. H. Shep- herd, which gave all that is known of its history. Poe afterward republished this piece, reduc- ing the 406 lines of the original copy to a total of 243 lines and canceling the eleven explana- tory notes which were printed in 1827. This is one of the earliest and most remarkable of Poe's pitces. Tt bore on the title page the following ines from Cowpe ‘This indicates the passionate character of the little poem in its unabridged condition, In the preface is the following statement: Young heads ve warm, Knd'iueko mistakes for tnantosd and reforae “The greater part of the poems which com- pose this little volume were written in_ 1821-22, when the author had not completed his four- teenth year. They were, of course, not intended for publication. Why they are now p concerns no one but himself. Of the # pieces very little need be said. ‘They pe savor too much of egotism, but they were writ- ten by one too young to have any knowledge of the world but from his own breast, In Tamer- lane he has endeavored to ex the folly of even risking the best feelings of the heart at the shrine of ambition, He is conscious that in this there are many thoughts, besides that of the general character of the poem, which he flatters himself he could with little trouble have corrected, but, unlike any of his predecessors, he has been too fond of his early productions th his old age. He will not say as to the success of these late him to other at- tempts—but he can safely assert that failure will not at all influence him in a resolution al- ready adopted. ‘This is challenging cri let it be #0. Nos hie novmus esse nihil. A Boston book dealer has been hunting for this work for ten vears and has said that he could not go out of business until he had found it. It has been a xtanding question among all his friends whether this book would ever turn up. At last, however, a perfect copy of the original work has been found. It is now in the hands of Mr. Charles F. Libbie and will be eold at auction during the present month in this city. It is certainly the rarest of all the rare things that are associated with the name of Edgar Allan Poe, and the party who has money enough to buy it will own a book of very exceptional uniqueness on American literature. The finding of this booklet illustrates the proverb that “ull things come to him who waits,” An African Transformation. From Puck. You eee here little Kela Beg, Who sucked a great big ostrich egg. When he got through he cried out, “Well, There's room for me inside that shell!” + — = = : EES PF CFF Just then the mother bird he spied, ‘And made great haste from her to hide. oar i ‘The ostrich never sets on eggs, But this one did—to rest her legs, TALES OF OLD TYPOS. Some of the Keminiscences Called Out by the Printers’ Fair. CORRESPONDENT DUNNELL TELLS HIS RROOL- LECTIONS OF HORACE GREELEY DURING THE DRAFT RIOTS—SENATOR MANSRROVON'S EX- PERIENCE AS A PRINTER—REPRESENTATIVE ALLEN'S YARN, One of the most interesting if not the most Profitable features of the fair which Columbia ‘Typographical Union has been conducting for the past two weeks was Our Composing Stick daily newspaper. To this publication a num- ber of ex-printers contributed original matter, principally in the natare of reminiscences. Some of these stories are of interest only to printers, but several of them are of a character generally readable and valuable, MR, DUNNELL'S HISTORICAL SKETCH. “Horace Greeley has been ‘accused by some | * ef | edits the Tupel of his enemies,” wrote Mr. E. G. Dann of the New York Times bureau, been dreadfully frightened at the time of the draft riots in New York. At the time of those riots, when the neighborhood of the Trilmns ffice, on Printing House beset by crowds tl it of destructi: was intent upon events up town or at x reported to hay flice and th to we been in such ala his Lit that he kept within dc Chappaqua. In those printer in the book by in the Tribune building. A establishment was on th with the editorial off from the book room we cot ventilator hole, ent by Greele) the form of the old man as he sat on his desk reading a paper, or with his fist flourishing in the air as he wax lashing Foreman Rooker for some errancy of the types in the morning's issue. “It wus the second day of the riot, early in the morning, and the crowds were faming in City Hall Square, rashing negroes out of the riding up or down town, the police t of sight in their station houses, stages and cars rapidly disap- pearing from the s! . shops on Broadway closed or ¢losing, and ‘an pervading all places, T flight had alre posed to be at ¢ county, fa boys ‘were landing at the siree they were to be put readiness for an expe: little work being adva were ali excited, * art ault. There was The compositors me in slowly, proots on their face of preoccupation of the mind of the composit: “Those mu but the young fellows who were carryir felt so im- portant with the sense of constructing a for- tress that they undertook more than they were really able to perform, The writer picked up out of the stack at the door four of the moxt convenient of the guns and started up the iron stairway. At the landing just below the book room and between the Tribune editorial room and the counting room Greeley stopped me, He was as calm as man could be. ‘Look here, said he in his sharp, querulous took two of the muskets out of m: have no business to be carryit muskets. ¥ he waited in the hall with those muskets held in his hands until T eame back, “It was that same night, T think, that the rioters made an attack upon ‘the off : the counting rooms and breaking the ¥ of the building far up room of the Tri Greeley was in tell by listening an: guage on , flashed through the little window with some- thing of the vividness of chain lightning. He became calmer later on, and he went through the rooms, now fortified at the windows with bundles of paper piled in front of them, und inspected the arrangements made to receive the next assault. He was particularly pleased with the troughs, made by nailing two planks to- gether at the edges, which were to be run out of the windows when the crowd appeared and over the heads of the rioters, aud employed as gutters down which the hand grenades with which we were supplied were to be run, ‘Then he went from window to window to see that each stack of muskets had its supply of cartridges, but he was not so interested in these defensiy: preparations that he did not stop to give care~ less office boy a sharp wigging for allowing an accumulation of “pi on a window sill out of sight of the foreman. He was the least excited person in the building otherwise. “There was no opportunity to nae those hand grenades. ‘That afternoon the rioters swarmed down Chathur street in a mass, with horrible imprecations upon the abolitionistsand Gr in farticnlar, and began a the Tribune office, in which they wet interested that they t observe the ap- proach of a body of police from Beckman street station, There was a quick meeting. There drawn, With night sticks in swept down upon the rioters, and fora brief space the clubs beat a rattling tattooupon the most convenient heads. Five minutes cleared the square. It wasa gratifying sight to Greeley, who saw it from the Tribune windows. If h away from the office after that, durin jot, it was probably not from feat so much as because there was no public conveyance running until the close of the week, and it was too far for him to walk through the enemies’ country.” SENATOR HANSDROUGM AND WIS PRIEXDS, Then Senator Hansbrough of North Dakota contributed. “One of the never-failing sources of astonish- ment to me,” said the Senator yesterday, “is the great number of printers who claim to have known me before the days of my descent into politics. When Iwas elected to the House of presentatives it seemed tome that every printer in the country kuew me and was bus engaged in writing reminiscences of our frien ship for publication. When North Dakota sent me to the Senate niy reminiscent friends came to the front ouce more and in great force. One of these peripatetic specimens told a great story about me—absolntely untrue, but a fair sample of the hundreds that succeeded in burglarizing their way into the newspapers, He. said that we were traveling in cotnpany, and that to re- lieve our weary limbs we stole a freight-car ride from Chicago to St. Paul. Then we were al- leged to have ‘subbed’ around until it became tiresome, wherenpon we again took the road, walking from St. Paul to Fargo—a distance of three hundred miles, When we arrived at eid may unknown historian, it was a question ‘ag to whi had the cleanest thirt, We carefully gated the matter and the conclusion was reached that his garment was a trifle more cleanly than mine. "Mine, therefore, should be washed first and, in order to obviate the evi- dent necessity of my going shirtless until the ration could be performed, he loaned me his shirt and remained in bed while mine was being scrabbed and made presentable. Pleas ant little story, but devoid of the first princi- t morning as I could of truth. “Lnever was in but one strike,” continued the Senator, “but that was 2 big’ one. I was Forking in Ken Francisco and it was daring the All getting 75 cents a thousand and the printer who could not make from $60 to $70.a week was no fe & Godwin, | | and my descent has been rapid apd ec wer since. See where Iam now! requently Llong to get back to my mews: paper work. T look np at the press gullery at | Himes and feel satisfied that i was intended for | a newspaper man, and not a #tatesma: i PRIVATE | “There is bat 0 ness misting fre sentative John Allen but that one clement no earthly power could keep me out White Hoase | combination conld saw foul aspersion could temporarily Joid soul, trade! Mil single wrecked by the have apprent It is too lat am everlasting|y ‘Tknow ane he © a. 1 Tupelo is may lin ® j when Fa edi engn ha pacity that amen of male home Of course the editor é there was anything Le hestucting response was ative in ite character. Half an hour went and a similar question was similarly replied n the editor sat down to write some Fring on the silver question.as it affected ance of trade in Tupelo, but to rave his couldn't get his thinker te work while ug man lounged against the weed k tor in despair The bees buzzed in and out of the open *, and the warm breath of summer b | fly to his last resting place in an and then the visitor said, hesitatin | _ “Well, ef you want a’ piece to |your paper, you can say that school out here aways,and that I am cne the rising young men of the county.” chee tec GOT UP TO LOOK PRIVATE. ‘The Hiring of Carriages and Horses by the Month or Year. the New York San, ‘arriages got up to look private,” as Thack- ray puts it, are common enough in New York and nobody finds in the use of such vehicles any cause for shame, A rich, famons and ex- tremely successful physician of Brooklyn dis- covered some years ago that it was better for his purposes to hire than to own horses. has had many imitators since in both cities with the promptaess chnrac istic of business men in New York, livery stable keepers have accepted the situation and met the new demand. “Turnouts by the month a specialty” is no unusual sign on livery able and this feature of the livery business is grow- ing. ‘The development has behind it the idea that wealth should decrease rather than increase the cares of its possessor, and just as rich men rent «l have their wealth cared and many women do likewise thus escaping worry and re- sponsibility, 80 some persons who could well afford to own horses and carriages rent them by j the month or year and leave the care and worry to the owners. Wealthy women in particular, widows and old maids, who care little for horses and find the management of coachmen tryimg, have taken to the idea of hiring rather than owning. You may now hire almost any sort of equi- page by the month or year. You may have your own horse anda hired vehicle, your own vehicle and a hired horse, or both horse aud vehicle hi You may provide coachman footman or yon may hire them along with v hicle and horses, You may provide liveries for footman and coachman, or the man of whom you hire will provide liveries as well as servants, If you rent the coach by the year the owner will put upon it your initials or whatever coat-c In fact for a con Fro He with their jewels onch, coachman and horses are the custome? nd keep on sending new ones until the customer is satistied. The same team and coach will be supplied always, save when the horses are sick or the coach is broken. The couchmen are usually of the hack- man type, but better ones are provided for more money. When Dudekin is set down at the club by his coupe or hansom you'd suppose from the calf'« head on the panel that the turnout was Dude- kin's own and never suspect that he obtained it merely by paying the liveryman round the corner $100.8 month. When Dndekin’s trown- ing father rolls home from Wall street in the family carriage, drawn by sleek bays which are driven by a stiff-backed coachman, nobody knows that coach, team and driver cost the ri man just £250 per month, Nobody reads * per month” on the panel of the rich widow's victoria, with its dappled grays and two liveried men on the box, but that is the price she pays for her equipage. It costs rather more to take hired horses to the country than to use them in town, becanse it is customary for the liverymen from whom they are hired to arrange for the boarding pf mits and horses, and to make a profit on the same. Extras of allsortsare charged f at highly profitable rates. Meanwhile his are the risks and the responsibilities, Oe Fortunes Made by Accident. From the Yankeo Binds In connection with the dinmond discoveries in South Africa and the fabulous wealth which the mines have since produced, the wide region of fiction offers no parallel instance of the ex- traordinary manner in which these rich finde have been made, It is now a matter of history generally well known how x commercial traveler and trader by the name of O'Reilly, in camally stopping at the house of a Boer near Pnell, Griqualand West, saw some children playing with a number of exceedingly pretty pebbles, and on asking his Dutch host whether he could take one he was promptly told that he could do sv, as “the children ad plenty more of them.” O'Reilly took stone to ¢ where an expert examined it, and it was at once ronounced to be a diamond of the first water. it was sold to Sir Philip Wodehouse, the then governor of the Cape, for £3,000, who a: rerold it, as was stated at the time, for 625,000. This incident led to the discovery of the River diggings, but it was not until al farm, but it had been erected for quite « riod before some inquiring prospectors f | That the rough cast used for the walls actually | contained diamonds, The farm iy | hands for $10,000, It now, with ite neighbor- ing mines, produces over $15,000,000 worth of diamonds annually,the total wealth from this dis- covery to date being probably over $250,000,000. However, the most curious instance ‘of bow unexpectedly hidden wealth can be revealed és connected with the discovery of the Wesselton mines, the richest of which were only found out less than two years ago. Wesselton isa farm situated not five miles from Kimberley and bas over and over again been earthly account. The proprietors suddenly and | Py SP strangely became very exacting: seemed to be i Sedled with the ecale of ‘prices, Finally they insisted that 65 cents a thousand wus re- muneration enough for any compositar. That struck us as being almost Indicroasly offensive —preposterous, in fact. We walked out and an equal number of rats walked in. We remained out about four or five weeks and. after our