Evening Star Newspaper, April 23, 1892, Page 7

RICH BUT NOT GAUDY Women of Fashion Should Strive for Quiet, Not Striking Effects, STYLISH STREP? COSTUME Qwrreet Styte le Newer Sensational fame SRoukt Sait (he Oconste Garniiares for Spring Gown Myles Iu Jackets and Meadgear, Boectal Corveapondence of THe Evextea STAR New You, April 22, 1892, OSTLY THY RAI- mont as thy purse can says Polonius, put not expressed in “ rich, mot It's rather strange that wo should find such admirable advice as to personal adornment dating back so far, and strange also isit that although addressed toa man of that day. it fits the woman of ours most appositely. Don't be fanciful. Don’t be gaudy. Be rich and elegant, quiet and har- fonious in color, graceful in outline, pleasing Yather than striking. The devotee to modes who insists upon being loud and sensational Decomes the jester at Queen Fashion's court, for correct styt is never sensational. — Espe- emlly should *> woman of fashion refrain from ‘ieplasing her parlor plumage in the market OT course not every woman has income ewough to change her gown as often as she changes her = mind; _ but sbe should = remember — that" while eccentricity may be permissible in her own drawing room, where 20 oue would have a right to criticise it, yet in public—in places of worship or amusement. there is an unwritten sumptuary law which controls our dress. One has no more right to create disorder by extras- agauce of dress any more tha. by extravagance ef speech. I, therefore. propose to set before you several modish outdoor toilets, and while the materials may seem a bit costly you should always bear in mind that in a cloth‘and velvet combination the velvet may always be re- placed by cloth of another shade, GRACEFUL STREET CosTtMES. Tathe imitial illustration will be founda street costume of very graceful cut and make up, the materials being a large check silk and a Russian green woolen stuff or Sardinian grav if you prefer. The puffed siceves, the skirt front nd corsage front and corselet are all of the ik material. while the redingote is of the woolen and has a slight train. The very stylish and origina! cut of the basques will be noted, the coat tails being box pleated at the back and reaching down to the bottom of the skirt in a point on each side. You often heat the question asked: When should a woman begin to show by her attire that she no longer considers herself young? Some would say thirty-five, others forty. But, of course, it is largely a matter of complexion and figure. Many women are more beautiful at thirty-five than they are at twenty-five. but that would be no excuse for continuing to dress like a young gir, STYLISH OUTDOOR GARMESTS. ‘The second illustration portreys an elegant street garmen: for the woman of thirty or thereabouts. The material isa cloth garni- tured with velvet applique. The fronts have Jong tabs, finished with pearled fringe. The are slit below the waist as shown. At the back the embroidery is so applied as to simulate » triangular plastron.- ‘The sleeves are bell shaped and are also trimmed with the fringe. The garment should be lined with dandsome silk. 13 SPRING ATTIRE. With the coming of May even the most timid woman of fashion dons her spring attire and emerges from her cooped-up winter home as radiant as a butterfly bursting its enveloping cocoon. She preferred to wait a week or 80 rather than seem to be rushing the season. ‘True. it has been said that you can't be con- servative and fashionable at one and the same time. bat I think one may. It is safer to ‘that you can't be old-fashioned and new at the same time, but there is such a thing as a dig nified seceptance of modes without a slavish bending of the neck to them. €MODISH CALLING COSTUME. Now, the calling costume represented in my third Mustration is entitled to your closest at- tention, for it has points of great beauty about it, and yet it keeps within Polonius’ definition, rich bat not gaudy. Itmaybe made upcither am velvet or cloth. Assuming this particular gown to be made up in black velvet, we should need nearly three yards of eggplant purple rib- the belt which hooks under the bo has a slight tram and must be cut on secure graceful fail. be gored on the Snisbed with » balayense. Toe Jot embroidered plastron is repeated at the back and the pues clecves ornamented with two bands of embroidery. The corsage linirg closes middle with hooks, while the corsage it- has crenelated basques edged with jet It and closes invisibly ME PERFECTION oF STREET cosTUxE. ‘The tailor-made this season is more artistic than ever, being the very perfection of a street costume. The great designers havo exhausted their ingenuity in producing « skirt that should de elegant and graceful and yet plain and prac- aeerieieng. I pemaat 0 lel Sqeee vias of these creatures in the fourth illustration. ‘The material is a gray blue woolen staff, tas skirt being cut very bias at the top. to secure Of these gow and two should ‘ilk, which ERE ft é z f Hy Ht ze £ : bet lie i tREEE teri il £ i & = & it : Hi i i —— - THE EVENING STAR: WA ‘one side and hooking on the other, The fronts are trimmed with bands of the passementerie. The collar and revers are sewed on with re- versed seams, FAVORITE GAAxITURES. Speaking generally on the subject of modes for the coming season I may say that ecru guipure and cream and black lace will be favor- ite garnitures for corsages, The tailor-made will be greatly or completely ehorn of its train and run largely in striped goods and Scotch plaids, elways in low tones such as mauve and straw, ivory and blue, while changeable mar- veilleux, India silks and crossed foulards will Ue much affected for summer gowns. Spotted foulards, too, are quite a novelty, having a quantity of tiny mavy-colored spots. I note also pretty stuff both in silk aud wool with in- numerable fine stripes or rather lines in pale colors on a black or dari ground. The Inst illastration represents a very sty- lish house gown in beige with embroidered corselet. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a ribbon ruching surmounted by a band of metal galloon, The bottom of the skirtis turned up soas to form a pointed train, for which, of course. the back breadth must be made with the requisite length. ‘The corsage hooks in the middle. the black and brown pearled embroid- ery making up the corselet and plastron. On the lett the corseiet is included in the seam of the side piece. On the right it hooks to the side piece. The back is quite covered with em- broidery, except where the wedge-shaped ap- plique of the material edged with gailoon or- ; naments the back, reaching to the waist. The corselet is framed with galloon and trimmed with pearled fringe. ‘The collar also has pearled fringe. ‘The sleeves are composed of three parts, the upper putts, the cuffs with the embroidery set obliquely and the gathered puffs at the elbow. JACKETS For stxMen. The summer girl will never be able to get along without the natty and stylish jacket with open fronts and white or fancy waist- coats. Avery becoming vest effect is attained by the use of the man’s evening dress style, the vest being eut very low, with a full crepe or gauze chemisette. Basques, too, promise to retain their popularity, being very frequeutly cut on the bias when the material permits or else gathered all around and put under the waist, Still another pattern has one large box pleat at the back or several small pleats meet- ing in the center. There is also a tendency to cut basques so long that they have the ap- pearance of an upper skirt, and should the skirt be made double the effect of a triple skirt is attained, SUMMER HATS. In the point of headgear the summer girl promises to be both picturesque and original. Her hats will be studies in crowns, which will be encircled with pink, green or corn-colored ribbons, andj the tufts of feathers will always be placed in fan- tastic — and be fantastic themselves, especially when the spangled mephisto plumes make their way in the world of modés. It is yet too early to predict what craze iu the line of footwear will take the place of the ubiqui- tous white shoes of last season, but no doubt some oue will be ingenious enough to devise one, and the next day it will find itself the most trodden-down object in the new world. 2 > THERE IS A WOMAN'S HOTEL, It is in Berlin, and is a Success in No Small Degree. “Skeptics who are disposed to consider7the plan for a woman's hotel in Washington im- practicable are invited to direct their attention to an institution of the sort in Berlin, which has been made an unqualified success,” said Miss M. A. Garnier to a writer for Taz Stan. ““Lmyself bave lived there for some time, It is called the ‘Victoria Stift’ or “Lette Verein,’ and is conveniently located in the heart of the city. The building is four stories high, m the form of a bollow aguare, inclusing an open paved court, from which a carriage gate opens into the street. “The front part of the structure is occupied by a sort of shop. where various articles made by the inmates or brought from outside—pic- tures, sewing and fancy: work—are kept for ale. At intervals @ ‘bazaar’ is held for the purpose of reducing the stock. Other rooms n the same portion 2f the building are devoted to the uses of classes of nupils, which receive at moderate prices lessons in drawing, paint- ing. modeling. engraving. photographing. de- signing for wall paper and carpets, &c. ‘There is alvo a kindergarten, frequented by little children from the neighborhood. One side of the edifice is occupied by music rooms, where all ches of music are taught i teachers or by professors from outside.in classes , WASMNGTON, D.C. saTURDAY INGTON, D,C., SATU PALESTINE THIS YEAR, ‘ Travel There Hindered by the Cholera. Mr. C. S. Noyes sailed from Port Said on the Suez canal March 29, for Gibraltar, whore he intended to land for a visit to Spain, He had just returned from a short trip to Palestine, Jaffa, Jerusalem and the country around Jeru- salem. In consequence of the Holy Land season having been shortened by the cholera quaran- tine there wasa great rush in that direction now that the quarantine has been raised, and the steamers lauding at Jaffa were very much crowded. Many of: the passengers were obliged either to go without berths or to take quarters in the second cabin, which was so infosted with fleas and bugs that sleep was out of the question, The trip from Jaffa to Jerusalem is made the same way a# heretofore—cither by carsiage or on horse- back. The report that the railroad now in construction between theso places had been Put in operation for a part of the distance is not true. So far from being completed, work upon it is now at @ standstill balf way to Jerusalem, only the more easily graded portion toward Jaffa having been constructed, and the projectors are now seeking funds in Europe to go on with the undertaking. Capitalists do not respond very freely, as the road is not thought likely to be paying investment, The season for visiting Palestine lasts only about three months, and freight traffic would not amount to very much in competition with the wonderfally cheap and convenient transportation by camels, those “Ships of the Desert,” which pick up their loads at the freighters’ quarters in Jaffa, and deposit them at the purchasers’ houses in Jerusalem without any bother of or private lessons, Flower making, feather curling, bonnet making, hair dressing are among the cratts in which instruction is given. THE SLEEPING AND LIVING ROOMS. “The larger part of the building in the rear is devoted entirely to sleeping and living rooms, parlors for visitors and the office of the lady superintendent, Of sleeping rooms there are two kinds, large and small, for one or two occupants, furnished alike, plainly but neatly, Prices vary according to location aud siz ‘The rooms are ail heated by steam and lighte with gas. All the beds are single and every- thing is kept like a new pin for cleanness and sweetness, A clothes press in the corridor opposite the door of each bed room is divided by a partition, has two doors with separate locks and answers as a wardrobe for two women, The rooms are kept im order by chambermaids, all attendance being free except medical, for which 25 cents a month 18 added to every bill. There are also siceping rooms ou the other aide of the build- ‘and ou the fourth floor are rooms with pianos. DINING ROOM AND RESTAURANT. “The first floor is used as a dining room for the inmates and as a restanrant for Indies from outside, who find it a very convenient place to stop for a bowl of broth, a cup of tea, a breakfast, diuner or supper when they are out shoppicg. Women who aro traveling find the ‘Stift an excellent hotel to stop at while in Berlin, The cooking is first-class, the food good and prices reasonable. The kitchens where cooking is taught by a practical housekeeper aud cook, the ovens, the laun- dry and bath rooms are in the basement. ‘Tickets for baths are furnished by the super- intendent ou the payment of a few pfenniga, Student tickets are supplied at’ reduced prices for all the principal concerts, lectares, theaters, museums aud excursions. ‘the house being closed at 10 p.m. regularly, except when entertainments are given, the porter must be notified by any one who’ is out late, and will wait to open the door on payment of 3 cents per capita.” ciate Sot A Prize Musical Composition. Ata meeting of the executive committee of the Wnion of German Singing Societies (num- bering 4,000 singers), in counection with the | | | rel 4 transfer of freight to and from the railroad, Should the railroad project be extended to Egypt, whereby visitors could reach the Holy Land withoat the davgers of the landing at Jaffa, it would have a good prospect of success, Tho land speculation scheme which was associated with the railroad project seems to have come to grief, and the land boom near Jaffa and Jerusalem, started a Year or two ago, has collapsed. ‘There is much fertile land near Jaffa and on the plains of Sharon and the Jaffa oranges are in great de- mand like our Florida Indian river oranges,but so many diszouragements are thrown over all industrial enterprises by the Turkish govern- ment that while Palestine continues under the control ot that dog-in-the-manger power there is not much prospect of any great amount of business development in that country. ‘The carriage road from Jaffa to Jerusalem (forty miles) is very good iu dry weather and the trip can be made very comfortably in one day, In wet weather the road is muddy and full of ruts, especially across the Piains of Sharon, Beyond Jerusalem the journey to Jericho, the Dead Sea and the River Jordan is mado yet on horseback, or in chairs carried by mules, but a good turnpike ia under construc- tion and will be completed by neat season all the way through this district, Just now the appearance of the destructive locusts in vast numbers near Jericho, in the Jordan valicy, has caused great alarm, and the roads leading to Jericho are filled with gangs of laborers conscripted by the government to go to the infected district to fight the locusts, ‘The locusts are destroyed Ly driving them into layers of brushwood, which are covered with | petroleum and fired when fully occupied by the locusts, The laborers get no pay for their work beyond the food supplied. At Jerusalem oue finds an unexpectedly good hotel—the Grand—and an ideal landlord in Manager Gelat, whose praises are sung by many Americans in the hotel registry. Consu Merrell, who has written much and well on Palestine, und knows the country thoroughly, is also the right man in the right place here, and ia always ready to be of service to visit- POSTAL SAVINGS BANKS, Postmaster Genvral Wanamaker States the Details of His Scheme. A PLAN TO ENCOURAGE SAVING BY THE PEOPLE— EVERY WORKING MAN AND WOMAN WILL DE IN- TEEESTED IN IT—THE SUCCESS OF THE Gov- ERXMENT SAVINGS BANKS IN OTHER COUX- ‘TRIRs—waT BANKS WILL NOT BE Ix- JURED. Postmaster General Winamaker’s favorite Project is the cstablisment of postal savings banks, He believes that the people of this country would be glad of an opportunity to deposit their hoardéd cash in tho hands of tho government, Before two Congresses’ he has urged the adoption of the plan. Respecting its details, as he has formulated them, he spoke frecly a few days ago in conversation with a representative of Tux Sran. “Ono reason why postal savings banks have not hitherto been established in the United States is that private banks have opposed the he said. “They Have feured that their business would be interfered with. Asa matter of fact there is no foundation for such 2 apprehension, inasmuch as postal savings depositories would not antagonize nor take away business from the private concerns. The government would always pay a smaller rate of interest to depositors, and its customers would be a different class from those of private say- ings banks. Whereas the latter handle large sums for business men and have the custosly of estates, trusts und the like, Uncle Sam would deal with the comparatively inconsid- erable savings of the working people. ‘THE INVESTMENT OF THE FUNDS, “Another obstacle has been the lack of in- terest-bearing securities of the government in which to invest the enormous sums that would be received on deposit. A conservative estimate has placed the amount which would come inte postal savings depositories, if they were established in this country,at &500,000,000, which sum would probably be reached in less than two years, ‘his monoy, of course, could not be jocked up in vaults and thus withdrawn from circulation, It must be made to pay its way, so to speak—to carn interest for depositors and also to compeusnte post office employes in wages for work they would do in connection with handling it and keeping records of it. The most natural and secure way of disposing of these deposits would be to invest them in government bonds. Un- fortunately government bonds are rapidly di appearing; the lass of them will mature ‘about sixteen years,” THE PUPLIC FAVORS THE SCHEME. ‘How far does ‘public sentiment favor this schem “Public sentiment universally demands its adoption,” repiied Mr. Wauainak ‘The people are eager for a chance to dep ings with the government. They feel that Unele Sam's hands their money would be absolutely safe, whercas there ix always a po sibility that the strongest private firm tay burst. Thouscnds and’ thousauds of individ- uals all over the United States. who now hoard their savings in stockings and teapots through distrust of the private banks would rush im- mediately to give them into the keeping of the government, USEQUAL DISTRIBUTION OF SAYINGS BANKS, ‘Another point I should mention right here is the fact that private savings Danks are dis- tributed very unequally over the country. ‘There are 617 mutual savings banks iu the Union, and all but eleven of them are in the New England and middle states, There are 364 stock savings banks, and of these only forty-two are in the southern states, which section is provided with no mutual savings banks at all, Whiie in New Englund the aver- agg distance from the nearest savings bank to the post office, which may be assumed to be the center of any community, is ten miles, in the southern states it is thirty-chree miles, on the Pacific slope fifty-two miles, iu the middle states twenty-five miles and in the western states twenty-six miles.’ 38 OTHER couNTRIES. “What grounds have private banks for fear- ing that their business would be damaged by government savings depositor’ “None whatever, if the experience of the whole civilized world is to have any weight.” said the Postwaster General. “1 have received ing Americans, ES. The Interesting Collection Now Being Pre- pared at t National Museum. A collection of the oldest fishes of the world is now being prepared for exhibition at the ional Museum. They were dug out of tne rocks recently at Canyon City, Col. Great scientific interest has been nroused by the dis- covery, because they are at least 100,000 years more ancient than any creatures with back- bones ever found before. ‘They come from the sedimentary deposits laid down by water in the distant epoch called thesilurian. No verte- brate animals had been obta below the upper silurian. These are from the lower siiurian, id some nection of t! differ- ence of time may be got from the fact that the two “horizons” are separated in the Appala- chian region by 20,000 feet of sediment. WHERE THESE FISHES WERE FOUXD was once a sand beach on the wostera shore of a vast interior sea, which extended eastward from the Rocky mountains and covered a large part of the continent, Geologists, wandering through that region so prolific of treasures in the shane of fossils, came upon the deposits accidentally, ‘The line of the ancien beach it still visible, although it is overiaid by sedi- mentary rocks of subsequent formation. ‘They made excavations with ~—pickax and blast, getting out 4 great quan- tity of material, which was brought to Washington. ‘Thirty millions of years have perhaps elapsed since the creatures tis dag ont wero living. It must have been a strange world in which they had their being so fur back ix the night of time. Even the r tiles which flourished and attained such gi tic* dimensions at a later period did not yet exist, The only vertebrates were fishes, ARMORED FISHES. These fishes of the Idwer silurian were all small—the diminutive types of the great fishes which swarmed in the waters during a later riod, which has been called the age of fishes, Fiey were clad tm armor, being covered with plates of boue instead of ‘scales, Their skele- tons were composed wholly of cartilage, like those of the sharks of today, which themselves represent an enormously ancient finny pattern, Under the microscope it is possible to see the stracture of the bone which composed the plates. In similar armor was the huge and ferocious dinichthys, as well as other marine monsters of a subsequent epoch, dressed. INVERTEBRATE ANIMAZS, Besides the fishes, many invertebrate animals were fottud in these same deposits. There were innumerable boring worms, and it is very interesting to see the actual holes which they made so long ago in fragments of the rock. ‘There were trilobites also—queer crustaceans which were the ancestors of modern lobaters and crabe, Mollusks were there in plenty,too, of & species known as the “lingula,” somewhat re- seubling clams, Millions upon millions of ago they were gqod toeat. At the present time the lingulas are very plentiful in Chesapeake bay. Of these ancient creatures they alone have survived; the others are all extinct, ‘To- gether with the fossils abovg described were discovered ever so many spe@uens of the or- thoceras, a mollusk resembling the chambered nautilus, but baving a straight shell instead of a spiral one. Above the deposits which formed the grave of the animals mentioned a coral ned previously reef subsequently was built by jndustrious polyps. < art SLAVERY IN THE PACIFIC. ‘The Steamer Moneserrat Fitting Out for a Blackbird Cruise to Gilbert Island. ‘That slavery still exists in the Pacific is evi- denced by the fact thatthe steamer Moneserrat is fitting out for a blackbird cruise, and will sail shortly for Gilbert Island, whence it will carry ahold full of natives to work on the Guatemala coffee plantations, All this is to be done under the guise of an exuitable contract. Last September the brig Tahite, loaded with 400 Gilbert Islanders and notoriously was blown off its course and Learning that it was likely to be seized, sea, and the next very interesting reports from ull the countries where successful government savings banks aro in operatiun, ‘These embrace France, Aus- tria, Ituly, Belgium, Hungary, Sweden and the jetherlands, ‘They are wuanimous in the tement that there has been no antagonism whatever between private banks and those under government con- trol, and that the former have received a0 in- jary from the latter, On the coutrary they de- clare that the number of private banks and the amounts of their deposits have iucreased, the government drawing its own custom from an entirely different class of patrons.” “Way do not private bunks possess the con- fidence of small depositors? Partly because in many of the states there iy no adequate state supervision, From the best information I can get it scems that in twenty six states of the Union, three terri- tories aud“the District of Columbia uo law whatever exists in respect to private bank:— that 18 to say, any person or firm can un- dertake the business of private banking in any of those states or territories without legal restriction. of any sort and with- out supervision or control under the law. In cight states and three territories no reports of condition nor examinatious ure required by law of banks incorporated under state author- ‘The treasury reports show that prior to 879 the losses incident to three or four failures of private banking concerns were equal to the total loxses which had up to that time occurred under the national system.” ‘THE ATTENTION OF CONGRESS CALLED. “How far has this matter been brought to the attention of Congress?” Mr. Wanamaker was asked, “Imade a detailed argument on the subject during the last session of Congress,” bo re- plied, ‘and I have just addressed auother to Chairman Sawyer of the Senate post office committee In response to an inquiry from his conunittee. In this I have stated the best rea- sous known to me, which I regard as conclu- ones, why postal savings depositories ought to be inaugurated, ‘To these I have added the views on the same question expressed by a number of my predceessor: also a tablo showing the uittmpted le; lation in the matter, and, what iy likely to be of great value. a careful compilation of the essential details of all existing foreign systems, describing their plans of operation and ac- companied by the personal comments of the chief postal officers of each couutry in reply to certain queries which I propound.” MR, WANAMAKER’S PLAY. “What is your plan in detail, Mr. Wana- maker?” “Ladvoeate the adoption of a system which will readily adapt itself to the wants of the ople. My plad is to use cards, with spaces Yor "postage stamps to be affixed to thom-- the cards with stampa to be received in lieu of cash as deposits. In the ab- seuce of government securities fo: investment @f the cavh, I suggest that the money be kept in circulation and made to earn a low rate of interest by lending the deposits received in cach state to the national banks of the same state, ‘The latter, of course, would be glad to pay alow rate of interest to the gov- ernment, making their profits from the pre- vailing higher rate. ‘The savings deposits would be made preferred claims against the as- sets of the national banks, ‘This seems to me an entireiy safe and practicable method. No exception can be taken on the score that it does not offer adequate security. for statistics show that in the case of national banks only one-twentieth of 1 per cent annually of their liabilities has been lost by failures,” oe ‘Two Meanest Men. “Onee had the privilege of meeting the Mmeanest man on earth,” said one department clerk to another, “Do tell?” “It was when I was a boy. Iwas going fish- ing, and I asked permission of a farmer to dig a few worms in bis farm yard.” “Wouldn't he let you do it?" “No. He said thatthe worms opriched the soil, and be would rather not have them taken a ay” was pretty stingy, I admit,” said clerk No.2 “Dat youre mistaken in saying that hewasthe meauest man. The person right- fully entitled to that designation I had pleasure of encountering on one B RUSSIA'S EYE ON INDIA. Efforts to Break Up the British Infinence in A Persia. A dispatch to the London Times from Teheran says it ia ramored there that Russia has offered to advance to Persia the sum of £500,000 at 6 per cent to enable the government to pay to the Imperial Tobacco Corporation of Persia (limited), an English company. the indemnity promised for the withdrawal of the tobacco monopoly granted that company and thus liberate Pe: sia from all pecuniary obligation to Great Britain, The offer is likely to be accepted. Persia will offer the customs receipts of the country as security for the loan. ‘The opponents of British influence in Persia predict the speedy annihilation of such influ- ence in thecountry. The granting of the tobacco monopoly aroused great indignation in Persi The mollahs, or priests, started a crusadé against the government anda number of sert- ous disturbances occurred. The priests for- bade the use of tobacco, and_ their orders wero universally obeyed. Finally the government, yielding to the popular agitation, canceled the concession and agreed to pay the compauy holding the mo- nopoly the sum of £500,000, the amount Bus- sia now offers to advance. This offer and i ae Cork Soles for Horses. From the Manchester (£ng.) Guard‘an. Acorrespondent writes to yesterday's St. James Gazette that the new cork sole is being adopted for the Belgian cavalry, The horses of the two regiments of Carbineers, which form the king’s body guard, are all shod with it It had been previously pointed outin the St. James Gazetto that the Brussels Tramway Com- pany—which. in addition to its tram lines, runs a service of heavy omnibuses from the bourse to the Place Royule up the steep Montagne de Ja Cour—has had the cork soles in use for some six months, and bes approved aud adopted them as a permanent thing. The Lon- don General Omnibus Company is about to givo tho shoes a thorough tri not doubt that the results will be wa much interest in Manchester. Certatnly there is no city in the world where the horses would so greatly benefit froma shoe that deadened impact instead of intensifying it, for in none are the streets so iron-hard. ‘The idea of the cork shoe is simple. It consists merely of the affixing to the under part of the shoe of two strips of cork. ono on each side. The cork strips are held im position by two very thin sheet iron plates firmly fastened together by a rivet. ‘The outer edges of these plates are slipped between the shoe and the hoof, The inner edges are turned ‘upward, forming flanges. between which and the inner edge Of the shoe the cork blocks are tightly fixed, Be- tween these flanges is fitted a screwed boit with nuts at either end, so that when the nuts are tightly screwed against the flanges the whole is perfectly immovable, In order to hold the cork still firmer in position the corners of the flanges are turned down over it, thus forming a couple of sockets, into which the cork, which at first slightly projects over the surface of the shoe, is jammed and compressed more firmly every day by the weight of the horse. ‘The m- itial expense per shoc is greater. Ou the other hand, it is mamtained that the shoes iast longer; that ti rses are less often in the hands of the “vet” and live longer; that “rough- ing” becomes unnecessary in frosty weather; and, of course, that falis and- accidents are far less numerous. If half of this is trae, there is a better time coming for the hor: si = ‘Woman's Laughter, From the St. Louis Maxazine. Women very generally neglect a powerful weapon of offense and defense placed at their command by nature. A woman's laugh, if in- telligently and skillfully used,can wither a man in his tracks or elevate him to the seventh heuven of happiness, Several causes have contributed to the de- eadeuce of woman's laughter. ‘The chief one, erhaps. is the modern habit of dressing. Fut “tree laughter depends upon a pertect development and exercise of the respiratory muscles, Contined as these are by steel and whalebone laughter becomes an impossibility. With a loss of the urt of laughing come: loss of the sense of humor. When the expr sion of any of the senses becomes difficult the sense itself dwindles, Don't mistake giggling for laughter. a ee Se Evolution Drawn for Tue Evening Star, 4 23, 1892-SIXTEEN PAGEs. NOVELTIES IN VANITIES, Some Fresh Suggestions From New York Respecting Flowers and Wigs. Correspondence of The Evening Sta2. New You, April 22, 1892. A novel and very remarkable industry has re- cently been started in this city. It is intended for the convenience of persons who have friendé in other cities in this country or abroad to whom they may desire to pay polite little attentions. Suppose that a lady of your ac- quaintance is at present in Vienna and you wish to send ber a fresh bouquet. It is very easily managed. You drop in at certain florist's on Broadway and Pick out the flowers suitable for your posy. Within two hours the bouquet you have se- lected is delivered to the intended recipient. The florist hasan agent or correspondent in Vienna to whom he cables the order, stating the number of flowers of cach kind, &c.. and the name of the giver is written ou a card and attached to the bunch of blossoms beforo it is conveyed to the address indicated. It is the mme with other cities in Europe and America, If your lady love is in San Fran- cisco, you can send her a buneb of violets or a bouquet of roses by wire, as it were, within a few minutes. . MEN AND THEIN COMPLEXIONS. Tt is generally imagined that men are com- Paratively indifferent us to their complexions. Accordingly I was surprised this morning at being informed by the most ncted skin doctress im New York that fully 20 per cent of her cns- tomers were of the male sex. She said that most of them bought her remedies for troubles of an eruptive nature—pimples and eczema. However, there were not a few who desired to be treated for red noses, whether acquired by the indiscreet use of alcohe! cr conferred by nature. The lady gave me a pamphlet entitled “How to Be Beautiful,” which was absorbingly in- teresting. I found that for €5—the price of three bottles of ~face bleach”—I could secure ® perfectly clear complexion. . For #1 more I could cause my skin to assume a “girlish love- lines,” the special preparation for this pur- pose being called “pearl enamel.” It only costs 50 cents more to give this girlish skin the desirable “velvety look” by means of “white while another half dollar ‘red rose paste” would “bestow upon cheeks, lips and finger nails a color true to nature.” Adollar bottle of “lightning depilatory” would remove any superfluous hair from my person, while another bottle of “gol- den hair tonic,”'at the same price, would not only restore the bair to the bald spot on top of my head, but would also “cause both eyebrows and mustache to develop.” The same little book stated that leading causes of leanness were “mad love and jealousy,” also that “ladies who board are upt to have the beauty of their forms marred by obesity for lack of exercise,” and that fleshy ladies are most numerdus in warm climates,” ‘THe MAIRDRESSER, A few doors away the sign of « “ladies’ hair- dresser” hung out. I ventured in and ascer- tained from the proprietor that it is much the fashion now for women to have their heads shaved for the purpose of increasing the vigor of the capillary growth. One man in his em- ploy does very little else beside shave the head: of female customers, some of whom come in a8 often as once a week for such treatment. Meanwhile they wear wigs. An importent part of his business, the owner of the shop said, was the clipping and crimping of bangs. This sort of work is all done by men, who are more skill- fal than women in hair cutting. On the other hand, women are the best dressers of hair, It was explained that the cutting of ladies’ hair was an art far beyond that of the ordinary male barber. Few women are satisfied with the color of their hair. Almost invariably they imagine that it would be more becoming a shade darker or a shade lighter. So they apply to the hair dresser, who bleaches or darkens their tresses. Often it is only the bang that they wish altered. Peroxide of hydrogen is the best bleaching preparation known. If applied sufticiently strong it will soon turn the hair perfectly white. Notafew women have come to know that white hair makes even a young face look more youthfui, So it would not be surprising if it should come to be the style for ladies to emulate their own grandmothers in this regard. MAKING wiG8, The most curious thing about wigs is the lace made out of human hair, which 1s used as a basis for certain parts of the finer sort ef wigs. This lace is made on a cushion by hand and is very expensive, ‘The material en ‘oyed in its manufacture is always whit air. The hairs composing the wig are crocheted into the lace, so as to be knotted in the meshes and held secure. In the case of a “toupee,” which is intended to cover a bald spoton the head, being fastened with bits of wax to the scalp, the entire ground- work of the article is composed of this lace; m a full wig there is only a strip of it to cover the parting. It has the advantage over any other kind of ace that it does not show when stretched over the skin of the scalp, and it never becomes discolored. Formerly the hair for wigs was mostly imported from Europe ready sorted into colors and lengths, but at present nearly all of it comes oVer in a crude state, the MeKinley bill having made the raw material free of duty. poe PASTOR A SWINDLER. A Notable Trial That Has Just Ended in Germany. The criminal court in Oldenburg, Germany, bas condemned the Lutheran pastor, Muller, to fourteen years’ hard labor for embezzlement, obtaining money by false pretenses and forg- ery. The trial has been one of the most nota- ble in recent years, More than fifty witnesses were summoned to testify to their losses through Mailer, and seventy-tive more, who were ready to testify, were not called upon, as the case against the pastor was complete with- out them, It was shown at the trial that Mul- ler began swindling his parishioners as soor: as he settled in a village near Oldenburg several yeurs ago, and that he had continued the prac- tice without intermission until fear of exposure indaced him to flee. He told the peasants that he conld invest their money for them at a larger rate of inter- est in Berlin, and more than one hundred of the petty land owuers and shopkepeers in- trusted to him sums varying between 1,000 and 1,500 marks, He induced the h to buy a lot next to the church for 30, ‘ks on rep- resentations that the Roman Catholics wero about to buy it, He collected the purchase price, but paid only 10,000 marks to the seller, saying that the rest would be paid in install- ments. As secretary of the church council in Oldenburg the councilors testified he manu- factured and incorporated in records of the meetings resolutions authorizing him to collect large sums. He made the collections, but spent the money in wild living in Berlin during his occasional visits to that city. Altogether ho ob- tained ubout 350,000 marks, The constable who arrested him testified that Muller, after his flight and before his arrest, spent thousands on fast women, posing as a wealthy horse breeder, and when caught was THEIR (sitting ina country tavern with but4 marks jeft, discussing the enormity of his own crimes as related by the newspapers. In pronouncing sentence the judge said that in his whole experience on the bench he had not seen another such abandoned scoundrel 2s in adding moro fruits and vegetables to their tables during the winter. The cheapness of Written for The Evening Star. MARYLAND, MY, MARYLAND. The Beautifal Region of Sandy Spring and the Friends’ Settlement. In a fertile district of Maryland. five hundred feet above the sea, some twenty miles to the north of Washington, rests the Friends’ settle- ment of Sandy Spring. This pencefal com= munity is well known to various residents of the capital and tourists from distant states, and is famed for the culture and refinement both of its soil and of its people—a garden spot, as it Were, or sort of promised land to those who freed their slaves from bondage long years since, before the people of other states and those who formed the national government came to cee the need of a freedom of this kind, and to realize that God had never mean Hix wonderful decrees that one man hola power and dominion over the life, and happiness ot suother. The early settlers, in pursuance of the teach- ings of Geo. Fox, who bid his disciples to “mind the light,” as it comes direct from God, “took up” miles of land in this vicinity away beck in the seventeenth century. and upon i: their children and children’s children have lived to dweii and flourish and to pass down from one generation to another the account of many interesting and historical incidents. One of the oldest iuhabitants was Bernard Gilpin, a direct dlescondant of the learned. good and gifted Bernard Gilpin of England who was there entitled “the Apostle of the North.” The one of whom we have to speak inherited many of his famous ancestor's cutie traits of character, with kind consideration for his fellow men. Friends and strangers wer alike entertained at tus hospitable board, whih on the dark aud dreary winter nights would he have & lamp placed in the window to “light the traveler on bis way.” His residence was an old-fashioned stone mansion, calied “Mt. Airy,” where bo lived and died, leaving behind bit various children to mourn his loss aud bear his atm Among the latter is the prescut Bernard Gilpin, « prominent merchant of Baltimore, who enjoys his regular visits to the family castie in the Oki World. Other places of note to visit are “Fair Hill,” which was once a prominent Friends’ schoo! and has lately been employed as a restful «am- mer resort: *-Rockland,” where lived and dicd the famous teacher, preacher. philanturop and world-known mathematician, Benjamin Hallowell, and where his son, Henry ¢, Hallo- well, now follows iu bis footsteps. A couple of miles down the road we call at the sweet farm of Bloomficld, and ar in by the hospitable owner, who in widowhood dwells serenely there, She grace- fully shows us the interesting, time-worn, though well-preserved, writing-desk chair upon which President James Madison wrote his officral dispatches during his refugee sojouru in the vil- lage of Brookeville in the war of 1812,when the British were invading Washington. We jour- ney on, and call next at the Cherry Grove Thomas residence. From this the aforesaid Berpard Gilpin took his bride long years ago, As at the Gilpin home, the ravages of fire once made destruc- tive work upon this spot. But again the old English brick were saved and used for re- building, aud the preseut houses remain, as it were, a monument of the past, Within this edifice are several things of deep intercst to the antiquarian, In acorner cupboard there remain various Pieces of unique china, brought over in the Mayflower or some near succeeding vessel. On the wall a restful picture mects the eye— William Penn treating with the red men, whom through Christian gentleness he made his friends, ‘This veritable little engraving was borrowed by James Madison during his administration, aud while in his possession was duly copied in bas relief in the rotunda of the national Cap- itol, where it still remains, The President framed the original and returned it to 1ts quiet resting place, in striking contrast with the public home of its offspring. For a short half hour we pause in the edge of Agrove at Sherwood School, and thence pro- ceed to the quaint little post office at Sandy Spring. Over thir presided for fifty years the late Edward Stabler. who was known quict but impressive way to many Presi statesmen and other public men, Presidents William Henry Harrison, Abratam Lincoln, Gen. Meigs, Horatio King and Francis P. Biair have each esteemed him warmly as. their friend. Near by this post office there remains a small old-fashioned house, built some hundred years ago by the mother (Deborah) of Ed- ward Stabler, and which today is sheltered by the holly tree that her own hand planted, and still stands to keep her memory green, ‘It is now occupied by Friend Gideon Gilpin, nephew to the elder Bernard. Though an old gentle- man he well remembers the day when, as a young man, he was one of the delegation who rolled the political “Harrison ball” from Wheel- ing to Baltimore during the campaigu of that worthy Prosident. A half mile off to the south we visit the Harewood house and farm, where Edward Stabler was born and died. After marrying the duaghter of Bernard Gilpin, ere he made for himself a name as scientific and practical farmer, inventor and seal engraver. Ten children were theirs and numerous grand- children, and, in the evening of life they gathered all around them to celebrate their golden anniversary, and to the lovely gray- haired bride of the occasion one of the grand- children addressed a poew, in which occurred these lines: “Golden wedding scenes were spared thee; Golden mo wents suil are thine: footsteps on tbe stair w Goideu clusters on too vi Upon this farm still flows the spring which was noted in the past for its size and delicions water and the silver sand through which it forced its way. Hence the name of the nelgh- borhood—Saudy Spring. On retracing our steps past the old brick meeting house, built in 1817 and adorned alone by nature's hand with the English ivy that climbs its walls, we stay to worship where our {nthers and forefathers were wont tobe. ‘Their mortal remains now rest in the simple burial ground hard by, where the “Charlie Forest” trees stand still as solemn sentinels. And. music of the b — Is root fae eresed With t and te co alana berty We have not noted down the converse of the | quaint, sweet, er tongue, the lan; of the Bible and the muse. nor of the various modes of life and custom that still remain ex- tant, but will refer the reader to the well-told novel story of “Gilbert Elgar's Son,” in which ‘Mrs. Harriet Riddie Davis hes gracefully done the honors of descriptive guest. ‘Last, but not least,” we approach the an: cient hamlet of Brookeville pause fora while on the way to visit the bome of the late Mr. Hallowell, Here the house still stands in rustic wealth and fields yet flourish where once his foot has trod. And. resting still beneath the sod, re- maius the noted ‘Gold Mine.” ‘On we proceed to the picturesque village itself, to visit the past home of T. 8. Arthar, and the once residence of Friend Caleb Bent- ley, who entertained President Madison dar- his flight and use of the “desk,” in time of war oaees call at the “academy” near by, the At last we at the “ Ys tores and office for our mail, and sadiy say “farewell” to the gentle folks and charming scenes of “Maryland, my Maryland.” . A. Hattowzn., epee anien ‘The French Campaign in Africa. ‘The government is making encrgctic prepa- rations for the attack on Dahomey. Whether the expedition will go as far as Abomey is yet ( i H Payment of the tribute or allowance to King in bas, of course, been discontinued. It is that there will be little difficulty in Podscite Whrdah by scans of the Seat, al- the expedition, and other icoupe wil be seat 80 bean leon eae TERRORS OF THE OCEAN. Jonsters With Which the Sea Was People@ by the Mariners of Oid, Few relics of antiqnity are so curiously ine teresting as the charts employed by ancient mariners, which have portrayed upon thom ever so many extraordinary monsters, horrible dragons and terrific giants scattered hers and there. The land-lock>d Mediterranean, which Was the only sea known to the Romans and Grecks of twenty odd centuries ago, was i lh mysterious terrors, while the more distant lands bordering ou it were the sbodes of wonders and strange peoples. Gods of shapes ruled the waters, enchanting. It on the sslets and rocks and on the ary iaud beyond were to be found weird em- chantresses, fire-breathing beasts. fierce pig- mies and dreadful cannibals, Adventarous Fovagers, who got so far as the pillars of Her- cules, now called the Straits of Gibraltar, brought back intelligence that the great ovcaa beyond was not navigable. Jt was part of the mighty river which flowed afonnd the fist earth in an unending stream, THE PILLAR OF MERCTLER, Tradition says that there war in those times braltar a stone pillar 100 cubits bigh, with a brass statue on it and an inscription stating this to be the jimit of navigation, Beyond was, & ‘sea of darkness,” infested with terrors be- yond the power of the imagination to con- © Occasionally a bold navigator did, nevertheless, venture outsute into the Atlantic, but war compelled totarn back very quickly. A whirlwind would arisc and threaten to swamp the vessel, or, more alarming stull, a @i- gantic hand, supposed to be that of satan, would emerge from the ocean of eternal gloom aud warn back the mariners, Not merely om these accounts was the ocean impracticable for ps. It was reported to be so denso with saltness and so crowded with seaweeds and huge beasts that headway could not be made throngh it, Even up to the time of Columbus suc’ beliefs prevatied, and his crews were ter- Tilied oa entering the Sargasso sea by the Weeds aud calms, SAILORS’ YARNS, Sailors’ yarns have always been celebrated for their imaginative character, Those of to- day, however, have no opportunity for favorae bie comparison with the stories told by mari- ners of antiquity. ‘The fatter wore able to couut upon an inexhaustible pablic credulity, nothing which they could possitiy invent being too monstrous or unusual-for belief. ‘Their tales presumably did much to augment the fears of the ses which were commonly euter- tained iu those days, giving birth to many of the myth of 0c hey told about the lotus eaters, who fed upon the fruit of forgetfulness und lost all memory of country and friends. Beyond was the terrible land of the one-eved giants called Cyclops, they said, while elsewhere were to be found the strange islands where the enchan- tresses Circe and Calypso lived. These isiands were in the narrow western Mediterranean, and beyond was the Cimmerian land, where the people lived in darkness always, inhabiting gloomy caves. ‘THE SIRENS. Thore were the Sireus, also, whose song wag death. It was said: Pull many s thetr songs betray, Wo Hiete aud lingers Gh he pues away They were condemned to die when « man should pass them without stopping. Ulysses accomplished this by putting wax in hie cara, So they were changed into rocks off Sorrento, where they still exist a terror to mariuers. The Sireus typify the sur’, whose barmouious mut- murs are often the death masic of the sailur, In like mauner the Cyclops represent the Storm Fiend, as their names show, Brontes ie the roll. Steropes the flash and Argis the white- ness of lightning. Likewise the susky Gordons are thought to be figurative representations of the white-capped and angry waves. Not less to be feared were the dreadful Sym; - huge moving rocks which were fabled to crush ships passing between them. It has been str- mised that the tradition respecting these rocks was derived from the floating icebergs, which during the glacial period must have issued from the Black sen; but this seems hardly CILLA AND CUARYEDIB, Sylla and Chatybdis were two terrors which guarded the Straits of Messina. They are there still a formidable whirlpool on one side and a surf-beaten rock on the other. The surf es were the dogs which barked about Scylia’s waist Charybdis was the more ee ip, whe: yi e wan with cach of ber six bends, tee ereat maelstrom of Norway wax formerly thought te be an abyss passing into the center of the earth, The Chinese fire cannon balls at » whirlpool in the Canton river. Wal re auciently supposed to be dragous. In the Arabian Nights they are spokeu of as gonii, Curnese sailors beat drums and gongs to drive them The devil i considered to be » d by many peoples, Davy Jones, the mariners’ chief demon, is satan. Davy is « corraption of devil, while Jones 1 derived from Jonah, whose “locker” was the whale’s belly. Accordingly, “gone to Davy Jones locker” signifies lost at sea, - SHE GAVE THE SIGNAL. The Story of Love and Marder That Comes Prom the West. There is a young couple in Hanghville, Ind., living ander the name of Albert Cox and wife. The woman's given name is Hattie, While laboring under intense religious excitement she has confessed that whe and her husband of # dchberately plotted marder, ‘Two years ago they were lovers in Cincinnati, The girl is not yet twenty years of age. Her parents were partial to another suitor, whowas rich, A smortgage lay upon their property. The rich snitor promised thatit should be lifted, if the doughter would bestow her hand upon him, Tbe younger suitor wae driven from the boure and the young womam, forbidden to receive Lim, ‘The lovers grew desperate and resolved te run away, ut that would take money. ‘The young lover devised an awful scheme to obtain ‘supply of money. It ocenrred to him that the richer suitor should himself pay the forfeit of money and his life, It was agroed that the girl should seem to accept the offer of the elder suitor in consideration of $1.00), and shonld make an appoiutment with him oa the Ludlow, Street bri ‘The money was to be paid her there. ‘The victim kept the appointment. and as he approached the girl she coughed. It wase rearranged signal for the conspiracy to reac Ke climax. Cox rushed forward from a shad owy nook and struck the victim a cruel blow ith n coupling pin on the He was brakeman and the heavy bar was hundied with fearful effect. There was no scream and the fall of the body made uo sound. Both took the body and whirled it into the river below. ailty couple did uot to ethe body. but burried back to the body saw them on the bridge and their secret to Hy seemed safe. Cox and the girl soon went Cox obtained the i i J i ! if if i