Evening Star Newspaper, December 5, 1891, Page 8

8 SETTING THE STYLES. How Changes in the Fashions Are Brought About. GARMENTS AND MATERIALS. Actresses the Animated Frames for Designs— Stylish Stripes and Piaide—Harmonious Combinations—Fashionable Meadgesr—Be- coming Visiting Costumes. Correspondence of Tle Evening Star. Nuw Yor, Decomber 4, 1891. HERE 18 A WIDE- spread notion that ac- tresses set the fashions, and it is an erroneous one. While it may be true that an actress of strong personality and real gonius may now and then dovise some nov- eity in fominine toggery that will take the public eye and attain a certain degreo of modisbnees, yet, as @ rule, the ac- tresses of our leading theaters have other things to think of than a ‘6 OF inventing new costumes. This reputation that actresses have as the origina- tors of modes comes from the fact that changes in modes first make tueir appearance on the stage The actress of tolay courts notoriety and public attention, and what better way than to apply to some well-known designer of cos- tames for aroveltyin apparel when she is about to assume a new role? No, actresses very rarely originate modes, but actresses very frequently are the animated frames upoa which desizuers hang their creations in order to try the effect of them on the public. Aud it'sagood scheme, two. Boectal Suiamt cuaxre. To turn frem generals to particulars, there does not seem to be ary marked changed iz the market. There’sa fall in those lofty sleeves which hareheld their own for so long. Skirts are still quoted ag cut bias, close and tight fit- ting at the top and full at the bottom, with large folda. There is not the same demand for eaboehona; their pop has a downward tendency. | Asa prime favorite 1 might quote moire antiques in dull colors, either in satin stripes or with floral figures. For dinner dresses straw color, sea gree Parma violet on a black ground are gr ites. Rongh-surfaced plushes and velvets are much wora. In making up these materials you use no skirt founciation. but line it with flannel i Velvet ap- modish trimming either plain or open sewn with jet, the effect Vel- into the makeup of es. he costume which figcres in the jon shows a very stylish gown in snede-colored cloth, the deep cuffs and collar being of dark velvet, pr ing a very pleasing effect. The hat is i lace, gatnitured with velvet and feathers. Cloth ‘aed sil too, romain in high: favor, ingenuity is dis played 1a devising stylish eifects. SILK AND CLOTH VISITING DRESS. One of the handsomest of these cloth and silk gowns that have come to my notice is the one represented in the second illustration, an altogether refined and stylish garment, well fitted for calling and afternoon reception pur- ‘The dress is a gray vicuna cloth, and smali pleated panels of plaid silk, silk skirt foundation with a false hem and « drawing string, the skirt being plain in front and fan- Pleated at the back. ‘The pleating of the panels ws finer toward the top. The corsage has Eaiiiues in man's dress cont style, without any trimming. The fronts of the lining hook in the middle, and they are covered with a full, gath- ered plastron of the silk. The corselet starts from the sides of the corsage, and is so laced as to display th jow it, leg-o'-mutton sleeves and ot "tl - You may. if your fancy so dictates, make up this dress in black or brown material Scmoct. Dress. stration will be found another ‘yory pretty silk andeloth combination costame ersom. The color af the cloth is of taste, while the blonse should in fouiazd oF pongee. The dress is mace up princess atyle, the corse! ing in frout cver the silk blouse. which should be ma.le ap over some thin | With hooks or pearl buttons om a bind of the same material. If you usc hooks, you must make two sail pleats to conceal tho oncoming. Tae « t collar ie set off witha bow made of the silk. Tho skirt foundation has a small Fuftts at the bottom. The front breadth, which extends only to the waist Line, is bias on both sides an:l has small hem, which conecals the seam. The frontof the corcelet is boned ite full It rons somewhat to a point at the baek aad is piped. Avery pretty color to choose for this dress would be cafe au lait, with # strew-cclored blouse. STRIPES AND PLAIDS. Before leaving this subject of woolen stuffs I might aay that the dress materials most in ‘Togue have broad stripes in light tones, plaids in two shades, spotted effects or large or small fowers in relicf. Swanskins, plain or striped, and printed funnels are much used for wrap pers and morning n ‘Trains hold their places very obstinately, varying in length ac- cording to the hear of ‘the day and the style of ‘the costume. walking dresses the skirt grazes the and the wearer is expected to y im Lifting it by laying hold of the ‘For imatance, stool gray and ezg-plant purple E,at tanether ani 50 do dove color amt wood wn, mouse gray rer, aah GrRy an area and po i i * pla i Lit delicate ft ‘most Nothing coull bemots styush than tes in colored Gnay FEer. strings in the eame color. The first stylish bit of modieh headgear, which is pictured in the fourth illustration, is alight gray felt edged with black velvet turned sharply up at the back and trimmed with a bow of light EY ribbon brocaded with pink, the ends of whic are brought around to the front and hide the crown. The other isa very clegant hat in coral velvet and black passementerie. Ishould add that the small theater hats are made up of bright, sparkling material. All capotes have strings rather broad and long. In one instance I saw that instead of the bow ted in the middle there wae a bunch of ribbon on one side and from it there were hunging two long ribbons quite to the knee. Round hats are certainly smaller. Ono of the most stylish and striking sbapes is A FASHIONAPLE TAT. the merqnis. It is in black velvet, has fine feather border and is set off by atall tuft of feathers, and at the back there are two bunches of bright colored satin ribbon standing out in bold relief, One of the prettiost visiting costumes that T have seen this season was made up in reddish brown—a very modish color—and the skirt and cuffs were bordered with black fox. There was a sort of figaro jacket corsage, gathered all the way down the front and opening on a ron of white peau do sucde, of which tho ding collar was made. Thave noticed that it is quitoa common thing this season to make up underskirts in black faille or merveilleux, garnitured with floances or ruches or bias bands of velvet. AN OLD YASMION REVIVED. An old fashion has been revived for young misses, namely, the use of ribbons tied around the neck necklace like. Tho tying is done on tho side in full knet. It is quite the thing to fit your tailor made with a locee cape of the same material, which may or may not be richly embroidered. AsIhave already warned you. don't overdo this cabochon garniture. It is not near so modish usit was. The bell skirt will no doubt hold ite place vers effectually. It should in all cases be lined with a glace silk aud not made up ona foundation. In this wa} you can keep it light in weight and easy to picl up on the street. For walking dresses_tweeds and serges will be popular. although thick cashmeres, vicunas and camel hairs will divide the honors. Trim them all with velvet ‘appliques, passementeries or braid. Now and then there is a feeble protest against the trained skirt for walking dresses, but I sce no signs of it being modified or disappearing. The effect is graceful, and for the nonce we must sacrifice the practical to the beautiful. 2 FLAGS FOR UNCLE SAM. Wade by Wholesale Here in Towa—Method of Their Manufacture. 66Q)UR FIRM MAKES ALL THE FLAGS for the post offices, custom houses, court houses and revenue cutters of the United States,” said s Washington dealer to = Sram reporter. “The government furnishes the bunting. On the same terms we manufacture by contract the code signals. Each eet of signals consists of nineteen flags, of different shapes and colors. ‘They form a sort of alphabet, and with them s ba whole language has been made up, so that vessels can talk with one another at a distance of miles as plainly as if they spoke English. This is the international code, which sailors of all countries comprehend. “The national flags which we manufacture must be of a certain pattern, as directed in the Bevised Statutes. never a new state is ad- mitted an extrs star is added to the blue field, and the stars must all be arranged just so. At proven: there are forty-four stars, and the law lirects tha: they shall be in six rows, the upper and lower rows each containing cight, and the other rows seven. Thirteen stripes there must be to correspond with the number of the orig- inal colonies, and the blue field is required to be two-fifths of the entire length of the flag. Also it mast be of the depth of soven stripes. Tae regulation flag is ten feet by ninoteen rt “We get our flags from factories in New England in the shape of bunting. It isa woolen material, loosely woven, so that the wind may blow through it easily. We receive it in big rolls—some red, some whito and some blue. The blue, of course, is for the blue field and the red and white for strij To make the stripes we take » roll ly wound and out it into slices with a een: cary- ing knife, sawing it through. Then we cut the stuff thus sliced into the proper lengths. Aft- exwerd they are sewed together. The blue field is called the ‘Union." “The stars are cut ontof white linen and sewed upon each side of oe ceieee = are very simply, with « of scissors anda tin patiorn. “The sewing and arrange- ment of ma has tobe very carefully done. First they are basted on and then the edges are tmrned under before the final sewing is per- formed. Aiter the ‘Union’ and the striped part are sown together a canvas band is strongly attached slong the back of the flag. With large flags, a rope is run through between two thicknesses of the canvas for fastening the flaz to the pole tackle, with « loop on each ond of it. “Flag poles are made of the best spruce ber. ‘The big ones represent very tall trees. cre is ome om a building here in Washington that is sixty feet im height. It took @ monarch of the forest to suppiy that. ‘That sort of wood is chosen because it will bend lize a whip be- fore it will break. Sticks for small flags aro mostly of ash. Such flags are made of white cloth in one piece and are colored with stenc: leaving the stara and white stripes untouch by the dyce. Im small flags no attempt is made to have the number of stars inthe blue ficld correct, no one takes notice of that.” ——_—_ ‘From Life, f a THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C.. HOW WOMEN DRESS. The Styles of the Day From a Man's Point of View. WHAT HE DOESN’T LIKE. ‘Why and When Men and Women Like to Wear Good Clothes—The Society Young ‘Man's Views on Modern Fashions—The Abominable Long Skirt and Peaked Sleeves. WRITER FOR THE STAR HAS MADE an investigation among the men of Wash- ington to find out what they think of the pres- ent fashioné among women. He encountered considerable difficulty in extracting any infor- mation from the married men. They said that necessarily their knowledge on the subject was gained confidentially and they felt some scru- ples in giving it to the public, and ono married man confessed be was afraid to say what he thought. “And what," said Taz Stam man, “are you afraid of?” ‘Ahem ! Ah—ah—well, now, youknow, I'mnot exactly afraid, but—but if she read it, now, sho might know who gaid it, you know, and then my position would be decided!y uncomfort- able.” But the unmarried men bad very decided views for the most part and expressed them freely. An effort was made at the same time to ascertain what the ladies think of the pres- ent fashions for men, but it was not very en- couraging. One lady declared men's apparel barbarous. She suspected it was designed solely for ugly men and to hide the defects rather than to show the beauties of the human form. FROM A WoMAN's POIXT OF VIEW. “It you have good legs,” she ssid, ‘they are hiddon by shapeless pantaloons; if you have a Good foot you encase it in an English shoe, which makes it as flat ag a babboon’s, and if you have a good figure you cover it over with &n overcoat cut in the of an oat sack. It is my belief that all men are ng 4 and are ashamed to let the women know how badly shaped they are.” Upon being questioned as to the changes she would make sho said something about silk stockings, silver buckles, laces and coats tight about tho waist, and she confessed a little lacer that her views wero not = disinterested, since the stockings, buckles and lacce might be made available on somo occasions by women. But to come back to women's clothes, which is the real subject of this article. NEITHER SEX APPROVES OF THE OTHER'S DRESS. “Why do women dress as well as they can and beautify themselves to the full extent of their ability?” ‘This was the question put tos certain woman who onght to know. She answered by asking: ‘Why do men dress up?” ‘They dress,” was the reply, ‘to please the " said she, “the women dress to please ‘But mien don't generally like the fey, ‘ ‘way women dress.” if To this she answered mptly: “Nor do women like the way men dross” WHEN MEN AND WOMEN DON THRIR BEST CLOTHES. There is evidently something wrong some- where. Let us look a little into the matter. It can hardly be pretended that man or woman dremos solely for himselt oF herself. Look at e people in the country or in any isolate tual gloss. De-they seat goed cloths or take sny pains with thetr personal appearance? Does « hermit who is living only to please him- wear dress suit for dinner every day? Does the farmer's daughter curl her hair and mut ribbons on when she knows nobody is com- Ing to take ten? No, indeed: "But tie hermit brushes himself up when he sees pilgri ing down the road, and the farmer daughter lets out the curls and puts or the ribbons when she goes to church. ‘The best dressed peop! live in the large cities. If man is going to face an audience he dresses his best, if he is ‘cing out on the crowded atrect he dresses well, bo is going to, stay in his smoking room he puts on a ragged old jacket. Tf 18 THE SAME WAY WITH A WOMAN. Bat s man dresses most carefully when he is going among women ands woman puts on her most glorious gown when she is guing among men. ‘Thus it is clear that they dress for one another. Now, of course, mon who are going toa “stag” party or about their clubs dross well,and so do women when assembled at Jancheons or similar entertainments which are exclusively feminine; bat these things are ex- ceptions. Tho best dressing by women is when they ure going to meet men and by men when they are going to meet women. I is impor- tant, then, that women should know what men think of their fashions, “Young man,” ssid Taz Stam writer to an observant dude of this city, “do you like the ‘hes women now?” ms com- wear “Yaws, yaws.” he exclaimed, rapturously. “Pawaitively, yaws. Nevab, in all tay expert: have i seen anything 90 bewitching as the gowns the girls are wearing now.” BE LIKED THE GRACEFUL FOLDS. ‘What did he like about them? Why, the folds of the skirt, falling easily, was, he thought, the perfection of grace. He remembered, with a Siguajiajnoniegeatonsnoses arden it , knock-kn shanked, of anything else that was ugly and nobody would ever know it. Those were the days when a woman took up as much room as three ordinary men, when it required a curions knsek to sit down ‘well, when silks and satins were draped upon the wire frame without any regard to the human shapo beneath. Lon; afterward the rt, no longer us support women cod_nearly gra every dirt pilo. Practically indestructible, it might bo seen in vacant lots, on river bani, in ash barrels, accompanied by its companion’ the old tin can. will the last hoop skirt be found? Who wili be the person to say i¢ is the last? It is only the other day that one was seen. rust and part of it had disap- ‘It was black with very ap) years more of ash barrel servico. when the scientific men excavating shall find P wire frames what will they sup- pose thom to be? The inquiry is a most inter- esting one. hence ‘THE TAILOR-MADE Ormt. Another thing that this young man liked in the female costume of the present day is tha silks and satins are not worn upon the strects or in the morning costume as thoy used to be. ‘The cloth is in better taste, it must be admitted, and it is becoming when it is well made and fits close to the figure. The “tailor-made girl” is ‘the result of this. She must hold herself well, however, or she will boa rank failure. If she wants to be thoroughly successful she must step Gag #8 though she has some vitality; sho mast be fresh, healthy, good to look upon and and good to rely upon. One thing a young man can rely upon with reference to her—i. 6., if he should marry her and continue to main- tain her upon » “tailor-made basis he would find that thi pimple costume, which looks as though it cost so li ury. THE DETRSTADLE LONG SKIRT. But there is one thing in particular that the young man who has been quoted does not like, ‘and that is the long skirt that sweeps the pavo- ment and that y well-dressed women are wearing now. There is only one thing that can de said in its favor—it is graceful on o tall wowan. But what does any one think of its fulness as it sweeps aiong a dirty sidewalk Er the city? Many women hold it up. Can there be anything more awkward tian the spectacle of a woman clutching this skirt and holding it three inches from ground? Tho truth of the matter is that s street dross which Peaked sleeves! Where aro they not? the nurse maid, on the mi on the be { ri fe i i H lo} cause they are too costly. ttle, is a most expensive lux- | ti stun mors” Ladln ladies the mem don @ woman is too good for this world. param Tery Written for The Evening Star. . METALS OF MANY KINDS. Carious Products of the Laboratory and the Uses They Are Pat To. HERE I8 GOING TO BE A BIG DIS- play of metals at the world’s fair in Chi- cago. It ought to be most interesting to every one who realizes whatan illustration of human progress will be thus afforded. One hundred yearsago the known metals wero only afew compared with tho many that mankind is acquainted with and utilizes today. Contin- usliy the chemists aro discovering new ones, and for each addition to the list valuable uses are found, so that the wondor is bow they could ever have been got along without. ‘Toke the ease of aluminum,for example. Ten yeurs back it was so precious that jewelry was made of it Steadily the improvement of pro- ceases for extracting it from its ores has gone on until now it coste in bar only 90 centes pound. The day when steamships and bridges will bo built of it is near at aud. Being almost as light as chalks, not susceptible to corrosion, and with o tensile streugth superior to that of steel, its value for mechanical pur, is ‘inestimable. In Germany various art objecte now made from it largely, such as wtatucttes. Attempts havo been made to introduce itass sabstitute for silver in tho manufacture of spoons and forks, bat with setae succers, owing = ae y feel, witch is due tos thin film oterida ct etsatae on the surface. ELEMZNTS OF THE EARTH. Besides aluminum there will be shown at the fair gold and silver in big lumps, as well as tin, zine, copper, iron and nickel. Also there will Le antimony for type metal, chromium for ing cl e steel, iridium for tipping gold pens, Magnesium for magnesium lights, cad- mium for alloys, potassium and sodium for chomical industries, manganese for making iron non-magnetic, and bismath, which melts at Ct gp 80 far below the boiling of water that mol can be made from it for taking casts from the most destructible objects. All these metals are numbered among the primary elo- ments which com the carth. Of these cle- ments sixty-nine bave already been discovered, not to mention two or three moro which are doubtful. ‘MINES OF ALUMINUX. Prof. Clarke, at the National Museum, says that the earth’s crust is one-half oxygen. Of the remaining 50 per cent 25 per cent is silicon, 5 por cent iron and 7 per cent aluminum. 80 that, plontifal as iron is, alaminum is very much more so. Most of it is found in clay, so that it has been said thut overy brick house is a mine of aluminum. Althongh the statement frequently published to tho effect that one- firth part of the crust of the earth is aluminum must be condemned as a gross exaggeration, enough of it exists for ali necessary purposes. ‘The only difficulty is to extract it cheaply, but there is every prospect that some y, it will be quite as cheap as iron or nearly. It is so far superior to iron for every mechanical ‘use that the latter will doubtless be entirely superseded by it eventually. It is a mistake to suppose, as is commonly believed, thatalum- inum isa new metal. It was known early in the present century, but it did not come into commerciai use until 1887. ‘MORE PRECIOUS THAN GOLD. There are number of metals known which have not come into commercial use as yet be- Three or four of them sre much more precions than gold. Th way in which chemists hit upon such disco cries is not by sceking them directly. Frag- ments of minerals are continually coming into the laboratory for analysis. In taking them a] once in a while an element unfamiliar to the operator appears. He can identify it with nothing that science is acquainted with, and 80 he refers it to his brother chemists as a n element. In this way the list has beon steadily inereased. But the theory best approved present is that all the so-called primary ele- ments composing the earth aro in reality merely different forms of one original kind of matter. Possibly at some time in the future it will be found out how all of them may be trans- muted by chemical processes into this primary pe. ge Written for The Evening Star. In Absence. A careless clasping of the hand, A nod, a ight, half-jesting word; And co we go our different ways ‘With deeper feelings all unstirred. And threads of toll our hands have dropped A little while, are taken up; Through ail this life the favoring Is bitter-sweet in every cup! And mind and nerve are ever strained To tind the bloom, to shun the thorn, And all-absorbed, we struggic on For meed of wine and hoard of corn. And £0, perchance we half forget, While song and sigh we strangely blend, ‘That we have sald farewell to onz ‘We hold a leal and loving friend. ‘Yet ina tranquil interval Of care and fret, a little 6} At eventide or starry dusk, ‘Comes back the vision of a face ‘Whose faithful eyes look in our own, ‘Whose smile is like a sunny gleam-- A face like some soft-lighted star Reflected in a sleeping stream. And words forgotten till this hour Come back again, true, earnest words, Whose echoed music is more sweet ‘Than morning song of summer birds, A deeper love the spirit thrills, By distance rendered more complete; And 80 does aiwence teach the heart A heaven-sext lesson, wise and sweet. —Harris Warner. ‘2857 Arsenal street, St. Louis. ——_—+-e-___ A Very Old Debt, From the San Francisco Chronicle. When Edward LI wished to send the black prince into France with an invading army he found himself confronted by an empty treas- ury. As wars could not be made without money at that epoch any more than at this he applied toacertain wealthy banking firm at Florence, from which he obtained a loan sufli- cient for his nceds. ‘The result was the vie- tories of Crecy and Poitiers and the humilia- jon of France. ‘The loan was not id, for the English kings of those days were bad ’ pay- masters, and the bankers who had furnished it were rendered bankrupt. A few years ago there appeared as x guest ata banquet of lord mayor of London the legal heir of one of the members of the banking firm in question, now mayor of Florenco, and the London news. Papers gravely discussed the question of what was to be done if this honored guest should take advantage of tho occesion to demand pay- mont of the loan made by his ancestors, whiek, With interest, amounted toa sum considerably excosding the immediate resources of all banks of London combined. Their anxiety was speedily relieved, for the heir to this in- calculable aavunt of money conversed on the trivial topics of the day, and said nothing in rogard to the great ob! and which might justly have been added to the English dobt. ‘This incident carries the mind back to the time whon northern italy was not only the conter of ard the the banking of Lombards were the first mone; Paria, and Lombord baukers ue of the historic streets of ————-+e+- Kept a Dog All the Same rom the Cape Cod Itom. “Does Mr. Goodheart live here?” “The third house up the road there.” SATURDAY, DECEMBER 5, 1801-SIXTEEN PAGES FROM A FORGOTTEN GRAVE. hide | Homers Paid to the Remains of the Wife of om Amertean Patriet. ‘TRE ACCIDERTAL DISCOVERY GF THE BODT OF ‘MRS. ROBERT R. LIVINOSTON IN THE OLD FREB- BYTERIAN GRAVEYARD—ITS REMOVAL TO TEE LIVINGSTOX MANOR—A SKETCH OF THB LIVING- stone. CTING UNDEB THE DIRECTION OF Mr. Smith Tompson, the Washington rep- resentative of tho family, an undertaker last week removed from the old Presbyterian grave~ yard the remains of the wife of Hon. Robert R. Livingston, a distinguished member of oneof the most notable families that has cver resided in this country. The fortunate discovery of tho remains was due to the merest accident, and bad it not been for the finding in tho grave ofa silver plate bearing an identifying description the body of this wife of an eminent husband would in ali probability have been recon- signed in ® burial lot owned by » family named Lucas. At the head of the grave wasa plot containing the earthly remains of a lady named Lucas. A footstone, on which was cut the letter L, originally marked the ‘spot, but it had been removed to the head of the Livingston grave. When the sexton was ordered to disinter the Lucas body and told that» stone marked the spot be unhesitatingly began to open the Livingston g ‘he coftin had been walled in recurely and about every two fect he dug a marble label the length of the grave was disclosed. At lant, when four of these had been removed, the body was struck, and lyiug on ite upper portion, in an excellent und readablecondition, wasfonnd the heavy solid silver plate bearing the inscription, which convinced the ‘sexton that the wrong grave had been opened. A notice of the finding was made in Tae Stax at the time anda New York pepor vied at under the head of ‘‘How Soon We Are Forgot- ten.” It came beneath the eye of Mr. Clermont Livingston, the aged vocupant of the Living- ston manor on the Hudson,and ho immediately notified his relative, Mr. Sinith Tompson of this city, to order the romsins taken up and for- Warded to ‘‘Clermont,” where they will be placed beside the dust of the great chancellor sn the family vault. wns. LIVINGSTON’s DEATH. Mrs. Livingston dicd in 1814 while on visit to Washington. This incident recalls to mind the history of this celebrated family. Thecom- mon ancestor of tho Livingstons in this coun- try was Jobn Livingston, 8 celebrated preacher of the Reformed church in Scotland, who was exiled from that rugged land in the seventeenth century for non-conformity to the established church. He sought religions freedom in the land of tho Dutch and there lived universally beloved until bis death, which occurred about 100 years before the American colonies declared themselves free and independent. Short! after his son Robert emigrated to New Yor! and purchased from the Indians a large tract of lind on the Hudson river. Subsequently the governor of that province granted him the land, with the privilege of holding a eourt- baron. George I confirmed tho grant by a royal charter. The original . con- tained between 120,000 and 160,000 acres of land and took in ninety-two counties. Of this immense tract a great ‘out of the pouseusion of the Livingstons, but tothisday the manor of Livingston still exists. Robert Liv- ingston married into the Schuyler family, one of the richest in the province, and three sons were the fruitof the union. Philip, one of there, signed the Declaration of Independence, while Robert's name will be mentioned always with those of Washington, Jefferson and others of that great period. During the revolutionary war a shot fired by the British struck the roof of the manor house und tore a groat hole in it. The occupant ever afterward refused to allow that roof to be reme- died, but carefully tacked the splinters so that the winds might not blow them at and in that beshelled condition the old sion re~ mains ee relic of the days ‘that tried ber - 7 CAREER OF ROBERT B. LIVINGSTON. Robert R. Livingston was born in 1746, and at the age of eighteen graduated from Kings, now Columbia He studied law under William Smith, the historian, and afterward be- came # business partner of the great John Jay. Ho was sent a delegate from New York to the Congress of "76, and had the honor of being chosen one of a committoe of five to draft the Declaration of Independence, which, owing to his being called away to New York to attend the provinelal congress, he was unable to the day the province of New York was changed in name to the*state of New York he took seat in the provincial convention. Daring the revolutionary war this historical man so signalized himself “by his veal and effi- ciency in the canse of independonco that all now rank him with the most illustrious charac- ters of that notable period. He was the first chancellor the empire state ever had, and in his official capacity administered the ‘oath of office to Washington on his inauguration a8 President of the United States, ‘The ceremony took place at the city ball, then fronting om Wall ‘street. On this memorable occasion Chancellor Livingston, after having admin istered the oath, exclaimed in deep and im- live George Washington, re tones: “Long identof the United States.”* For several years he ably filled the important office of secretary of foreign affairs tor the United States and in 1788 was chairman of the New York convention which considered the Constitution, and was principally instrumental in securing its adop- tion. President Washington seeing the fitness of the chancellor for that ition tendered him the post of minister to France. At first he declined it, butat a later after refus- ing a position as Secretary of the Navy in the Cabinet of Jefferson, he was upon to accept it, and was appointed in 1801 slouter plenipotentiary. AT THE FREXCH covRT. Upon his arrival in the country which had given us Lafayette he was received by Napo- leon Bonaparte, then first consul, with marked respect and extreme coriiality, and at his whole stay he enjoyed the wa: fries of Bonaparte. It is said the American was Na- jleon’s favorite of all the foreign env: Waile he wes cerving the young republic, Louisiana, which then embraced much of the territory now occupied by the states imme- —. ‘west of the Mississippi, was added to its jomain. Although Mr. Monroe was also a member of the commission appointed to arrange the mat- ter with the French government he did not arrive in Paris until Mr. Livingston had nearly perfected the terms of the The share of this future President in the was principally in affixing his signature as one of the commission. Minister Livingston also did much to make the French government settle for the numerous spoliations on our commerce. After resigning his position at the French ital he travel extensively in the old worl and on bis return to Paris found Napoleon oc- eupying the imperial chair. The old friend- ailpvatagen em was renewed: day of erican’s naparte poseonted him with a handsome snuff box con- faining » miniature likeness of himself,painted by one of the most celebrated artists of that day, aso token of the respect and esteem he ‘HIS CONNECTION WITH STEAMDBOATS. Before the close of the last century ston conceived the idea of running boats by sieam, and that he might reap the reward of bis labors he applied to the legislature of New York for the exclusive right to navigate its waters by steam power for @ space of twent Jeara, ‘Lite righ the stale gave his, with toe Proviso: That his boats attain a ot four miles an hour, Ho conatrnctod s craft which e miles an hour, probabil would have, perfected it to fhe foiled at ‘was persuaded ve = Sicnch ais: 6i01 the twas while in France that he met Fulton, ani him to be a man of both theory and practice. He acquainted him with he bad dope in and advised him to turn bis attention to i IV E subj ‘Together they beg gr og 154 faly nchod boat on one the Written for The Evening Star. ON BOARD THE ATLANTA How Thanksgiving Day Was Passed by Oficers and Men. 4 LIVELY RAGE BY TRE BLUE JACKETS—INTEREST- ING REMINISCENCES AT DIXXER— EVERY Caiied States that immense country Within the boundaries of six states. After a most illnstrious career the chancellar expired in February, 1818, at his sent at Cle: mont, and the family vault, as before men- tioned, now contains his dust. In 1876 an American lady residing in France Presented to the New York Historical Society a Rortrait of the chancellor, painted by Joun ‘fanderiyn, ® famous American painter, who had been assisted in his straggling days b; Aaron Burr. On this oceasion Mr. Frederic! de Poyster reviewed before an enthusiastic Puegting of the society the history of the sab- ject sncomieiiaiinias SMIFFKINS AS A PEDAGOGUR. How He Tried His Hand at Teaching School, With Onty Moderate Success. 66 JQ UNNING AWAY FROM HOME DOESN'T pay,” said Smiffkins the other night at the Platypus Club. “I tried it when I was nineteen years old. My father had two or three Ponds in the neighborhood dragged the day after I disappeared, and subsequently he charged the oxpense of that operation against me in settling up for a few hundreds of dollars that were due me on coming of age. Within a week aftor my departure papa got a letter from me announcing that I was in a certain big city and had accepted the position of teacher of Greek and Latin in @ well-kiown fashionable echool. “That was all true enough so far as it went. However, my place was only that of assistant instructor, and, besides elevating the youthful ‘mind to s familiarity with the dead languazes, Iwas burdened with multifarious duties such as belong ordinarily to au ‘usher’ in » boarding School for boys. In fact my situation was rela- tively very much like that of Nicholas Nickleby in the educational establishment presided over by Mr. Squeers. I was obi: to see to bed every night two dormitories foil of youngsters, ind was responsible for the thoroughness with which they washed their faces in the mornin; From 7 to 8 a.m. each week day I pel tho pupils under my charge to study Bible & ATLANTA WAS LYING IN the historic harbor of Yorktown, Thankagiving day, almost within the shad of the lofty monument that marks the spot where Cornwallis gave over bis sword to Gen. Washington; and though no one on board could enjoy the day at his home, as all would have preferred to do, it was stili a day plens- antly passed, and from the cabin to the fore- castle every one seemed happy. Every mess in the ship hed a turkey and the cooks vied one another for excellence in their cali nary arts. During the day before the sailors had collected ioads of holly ashore and the whole ship was prettily decorated with it, and fags appeared im abundance. Though the morning broke gray and dismal and the old earth works of Cornwallis’ fort.on the Yorktown side, and those of MeCicllan, on the Gloucester ide, shone through the mists of « drizzling Fain, thie did not @anpen the srdor of the ship's compar & STRAIGHT-AWAT RACE During the forenoon the two jong, narrow whate boats were lowered, stripped of every- thing thet could be spsred to reduce weir weight, and manned with the crews of two rival gun divisions for @ race of a mile strat: it away from up the river to the ship. The ofi- cc and smail bets wont round, consisting in Uitte more than a cigar or ‘of beer, but just enough to add = little interest. steam cutter aceompanied the racers, and at the word from one of the judges, the rival crews started, the coxswain at the helm giving the stroke to his meu and encouraging them to “put their weight on the oars" as the twelve fourteen-foot oars dipped the water at the same instant. It is a pretty sight to see the twelve brawny “blue jackets,” stripped to the waist, bend forward 4s one man, and then lean back, with all their muscles drawn on the oars, as the boat springs through the water, sending the spray dancing from her cutwater. The two boats keep right togetber till within a hundred yards of the ship, then «man in one of he crews maketa i ee i “~ hole crew, Verses, which afford instructive recreation to | ™! ich “breaks up’ the adolescent intellect before breakfast. On | 8"d, #88 result, the other crew wins. amid the Sundays I conducted a division of them to church, where it was my task to see that they did —_ embezzle the given them for plate. “When I draw # comparison between Dothe- boys Hall and the superb and celebrated schol for boys in which I was employed it is not it some reason. Parents would be more reluctant to send their children to boarding school if they knew what distresses and even tortures have sometimes to be un by them. But their complaints, even when made, are seldom listened to with seriousness. I beg you to remember that I am speaking of one of the most famous and successful instructors of youth when I say that he wasaman of so brutal ‘and almost Gendish a temper us to be utterly unfit to have charge and control of children. On the top floor of the school building was « small iron room built like a safe, in which he would placo refractory pupils for hours to- gether in solitary contincment. Grown persons have often been known to go insane in conso- quence of such an experience. “T can't say¢hat I was an unqualified success asateacher. It was my misfortune that my own studies at school end college bad been sadly neglected, and, although I could trans- late Latin and Greek with a fair degree of ease and accuracy, the grammars of those languages were not very familiar to me, and at prose composition I stuck hopelessly. Although I thoughtfully provided myself at the start with cribs to go with the text books, which I care- fully concealed from the boys in my desk, the teacher of classics whose subordinate I was soon caught on tomy incompetence. Another thing against me was my pupils were rather in- clined to regard me as one of themselves, some ff them bei pearly as old as 1 ii t sympathized much more with thait cheering of ite constituents among the “blue Jackets. The executive officer had offered an immense turkey asa prize to the best riflo shot on the ship and @ representation from each mees par- ticipated till it was deci REMINISCENCES OF DINNER. At dinner every one was in @ good humor, and at the officers’ moss the heslth of “‘Sweet- hearts and wives,” the best one known to “those that go down to the ses in slips,” was drunk many times. Then ctory telling began, and some good tales of other Thanksgiving days were told. One officer who had survived the rigors of an aretic winter while searching for De Long's i fated party from the “Jeaunette expedition told of hia winter pavsed amid the ise nad enow and of a Thankegiving dinner that consisted of hardtack, beans and “salt horse” (as canned beef is called by the sailors). Yet amid all these hardships an old “bine jacket” had tersely remarked that “he jist thanked the good God he was a livin’.” In contradistinction to this another officer told of a Thankegiving day on the east coast of Africa, within the torrid zone, where it was “‘so hot thatthe mere sug- gestion of snow and ice made a man feel thank- ful.” Other tales of ‘Thankegivings in the orient, the silken-robed Japanese, or the almond-eyed Chinese, or in the South Soa Islands, went round till’ it seemed that the world isn't so very large after all. In the evening I went forward to see how the enlisted men were enjoying their holiday, and found that the musical ones bod coven bled and were ing flutes, guitars, jos and ac- © While some of the nimble-footed ones danced rattling jigs. One old tar remarked that “he hadn't ven the likes o' it sinco the day he went round the horn in "73, but it was mouty truth, I ieee wineaapatepeeeiace ee 1° ogic idea. celved that l Fould ret last indetinitely. “It seemed to me an injustice that the boys be compelled to go to bed at 9 o'clock when they were not sleepy. So in the dormi- tories my charge we ized various games and larks after the rest of the establish- ment had retired. Tag was too noisy a sport, but some more quiet enjoyments were dry.” This was the same mau that went to the hatchway and called out, “How many of yez are down thur?"—and when some one “seven,” he sang out, “hin come up the half of and wondered why some of the on- lockers laughed at his ‘order, ‘In the evening the officers invited the officers of the Benning ton over to spend the evening, and quite a number of thom came. Reunions are always pleasant in the navy, for there are always so I per: . per- Fascinated andioness of mink ye eed here? | many experiences i talk over, apd on un ooce- Once there was an alarm andi hid unthinkingiy | 892 there ie nothing but “good will under a bed. It occurred to me afterward that | ®®4 plenty of it.” Then it is that “old it would Lave been difficult for me to explain | °° Sainoniepeet the situation with dignity if I had been caught | Pleasant as aap eee. “One night, it being some special occasion appropriate for festivity. I announced that I would give a ‘bum.’ meant a feast, and notice of it being passed around was received with unanimous approval. After the matron had tucked the little boys in bed and lights were out I sneaked down stairs and out by the front door with my latch key. Two away there was a confectioner’s and there I PASSION FOR PITCHING DICR. ‘Then the dice boxes are called into service to see who pays for the cigarsand beer, for aboard ship all questions are decided by pitching dice. I once saw two young officers pitch dice for cigars and beer until they wore tired of it and could think of nothing clse to pitch for, when one of them that they piteh to decide lied myself with a uantity of ice | “who was the fool,” and when the mo- cream, cakse and candies. With this Provender | mentous question was’ decided they both T returned to the schcol. “turned in” happy, one contented in fact “I tound my youthfal obi impatiently | that he was not the biggest fool and the other coking | tiny aoe Tp quictly’ the gaa. being | firmly happy in the tact that be bad won, even Tighted” again, and flocked zbout the long, | if he was the “biggest fool. marble-topped washstand, upon which the| The life of a naval officer may be a strangs were spread ont attractively. Not o| one and may lead kim into many strange lands, fCoughe of interruptioa occurred to us, bo- | Af one old officer once told me, “It may havo cause my dormitories were ou the fifth floor its ups and downs, but it’s never monotonous.” and far from any other instructor's sleeping bat wi quarters. “The edibles were nearly all consumed, amid much merriment, when a footstep was heard upon the stairs outside. Every ear at once be- t The ——s approached ly too well as With one accord my charges beds and covered them- selves up in attitudes of profound slumber. My first inclination was to do the same, but I felt ‘thet it would hardly work, considering the debris of the feast which lay scattered about. Therefore, I checked my fingers on tho gus put my hands in my pockets, trying to look as calm es ible. “The schoolmaster opened the door slowly and looked in. As he surveyed the scene of dissipation, in the midst of which I stood a sol- ‘and snow that gladdened the heart of bis boyhood, with Sis mating and leighing, and the’ soutberner ettoes and por ranates an that were robbed of their foliage to detorate the home of his boyhood on the day of thaske. Walker's squadron and will probably not go to South America right away, but may take s ‘West India cruise with the rest of the squadron dering the winter months. The young men of lew Orleans have organized a paval reserve re of guilt every bed being occupied similar to the organizations in Boston aud New SS fambering innocent, an expression of | York, Tn that the squadron of horror overspread his countenance. Pointing | @Y°lution may be called on to give them in- at me a trembling ‘of scorn he anids struction in modern naval drills and gunnery “Do you call yourself a teacher, sir?’ — to that given last summer to the Boston “I didn’t think of any suitable to iew York boys. 1 think the officers would that, so I remained silent. He shut the door a in and, as his footsteps departed down the I felt that he was right, I was not likely to be able to call myself teucher any longer. ‘Therefore I got up carlier than usual the next morning, in order to hand in my before I could be discharged, It was and that ended my experience asa Then I traveled home and ap) it act as the prodigal son, with a Sea success.” oe, fErEF singular experience with trade rate, known also as mountain rata. As the nighte were cold the miner took his ore sack tore plonish his rather hard bod. Having negiected ‘to come to town for soveral weeks, his supply of beans had given out end be had come down toadict of straight bacon. Considerably out of humor he started in to pull his bed to picces one morning and in removing the sacke was whole of the a: Hg Rak | : : : I i ! e EF i F Hy 5 H i i E li i i li i if H j 2F H [ [ i ik : Lf F iy & B E Hf i H i E ¥ i i t F é 7 f i i. fi a] ! et i i if I t | 4 FEF Hi Ed ‘ i 3 4 i if iH 3 { M4 a Fee i f | i i : I Ir | : : i H & | g A ees Hil i i i 1 1 i a & a if fi and crew collected on deck to see the race, | HEIRS APPARENT, The Eldest Sons of Monarchs De Net tive to Ascend the Throme From the Kew York Tribune Should the prince, in accordance with his own premonition and that of many of his fellow countrymen, dic before the queen be will but share the strange fate which seeme to overtake nearly the eldest-bota sons of Enropean monarchs. Ii is quite rare when crown passes from father to eldest son, Uso. ally it is either some younger brother of the latter or even a more distant relative who jucceeds to tho throne. There is ecercely a single royal or imperial house mentigned ia th ‘Almanach de Gotha” that has Bot, Within the memory of the present generation, fur Rished examples the strange biight whice, “et fons. Barely three wince the day when the d the world prince of Austria jolent death. The bing of too, had seen his only the young Duke of Br: borne to an unti grave; and wh Wiliam of Hh rms, finaliy deciied, arture for enother m the roval voult af tomb of bis two sous. Wi avd Prince Alesender, hagas, which contains the by the way, be opened by wate and antiquerians of future rposo of inve bad olog: explore the ‘ epuichers of the Egyp- Uan Pharoais, do: “erp 4 4 te may possibly arias te the identity of th pant of the tomb. For d mot in male, but in fe- re. and is, I believe, the only sdult > i been buried in a quilted yen. Tt ne wer to edopt tha or kind, ed oats in licn of the ordinary g.rments af oor sex during the last few years of lit lie gem expired be extorted s his father and other relatives buried Promise from that be should be der brother, whe usiy. did mot ime taint of iusenity ght into the royal bo of Nassau by his gran: eon i. daughter of the manine Crar He ware derable mental ability, whose life @ been far happier, and, ubowe ail, ctable, had it not been for the po- @ few years y herit to the same degree the which had beeu Lr gue of Napoleon Til. All the pre- liminaries bad been nogotisted for tinge of the prince to Princes Mary (now Duchess of Teck), aud Wi The Hague for London for the purpose of ating himself to the bride who had bees Cted for him and to Queen Victoria, Un- fortunateiy, instead of going direct from Hol- land to England, he traveled via Paris. Rapo- leon ILI eageriy avaiicd himself of this @ppor- tunity to frustrate the matrimunial projects of the Duteh and British courts, being strongly opposed to the idea of pormitting Mol lend to fall -once more within the sphere of English jinitucnce. Aesord- ingly be caused every conceivable semp- tation to be placed in the way of the ince for the purpose of keeping ot is, Moanwitie Princess Mary and her ilustrious relatives were anwously a him in Lon Daye aud even weeks Without the prince showing the tion of leaving the banks of when, im add:tion to this unl. Princess Mary and Quer purposely exagcerate ports of Prince William's disap they lost no time in breaking So strong, however, was the bold wh Pleasures and gayeties of bowievard hed ned upon the prince that ne received the news of the rupture of feelings of relief rats ing no further sercples to restrain hineelf headlong into the wild whiri of Parisienne.” Ludeed, the remsiader existence may be said to Lave been spent in French metropolis, where he cu the day of bisdouth to remain profit end also of much police. The prosent Emperor of Busia is only the second son of the late czar. The elder sen of the latter died seven-and-iwenty years ago at Nice from the results, it is said, of a blow in- flicted in rough boree play by one of his younger brothers. Had Nicolas Alexandrowiich sur- vived his fxther and succceed to the throne instead of Alexander IT1 the present condition the of Russia would be far happicr, for Nicolas was tho reverse of Alexander in every parsiou- jar. He was as broad and liberal iu ail bis ideas at his younger brother is bigoted and nacpow- minded. fie was progressive aud eulightened, whereas the present emperor is reac 4 dull and unwilling either to learn Limself of permit others to learn. ‘The premature death of the Czarowitz Nicolas was regarded not omy asa national calamity, but also as an interna tional one a quarter of a events which have oceurr tended rather to strengthen than to weaken in any way this impress The only son of } violent death in South Afric the reiguing Grand Duke of to be suffering fro: m TT met with » the eldest son of den is reported consum) tion und the crown prince of Italy ts so frail of physique and so delicate in health that it is bis cousin, the handsome and dashing young Duke of regarded as desismed king of Italy. An eldest during hie fatuer's lifetime, wae the late Duke Of Orleans, elder brother of the Duke of Aw male and father of the Count of Paris. No member of the “Maison de France” ever en- joyed to #o great a degree the uffections of the aed et 1 when he wus killed by be- ing thrown from bis carriage be was mourped by the entire uation. It iv believed that ind he survived his father, King Louis Phillippe, the Orleans dynasty would never have been overtbrowa and that the Comte de Paris, in stead of being in exile, might now be reigning over France as & constitational monarch. Proofs of the rartty of the doscent of » crown from father to cidest son are to be found ia almost every monarchical coantry in E Thus the Emperor of Austria mberited his throne, not from his father, but f-om hi» uncle, and at his doath it will pass on to bis younger brother. The new King of Wortemberg was not the son, but the cousin of his predecessor, and on his demise his sovercignty will descund to another cousin Kivg Oscar of Sweden end Norway «ueceeded not to his father, but to tle elder brother, King Charles, while King Chris» tian of Denmark imborited bis crown from ® cousin. The crazy King of Bavaria has fol- lowed not bis tather, but bis elder brother, she friend and patron of Wagner, and inasmuch ing King of Sexony has no legiti- mate children his throue wili ible eh Lime edd. mas wot the non, bat ther, of the moparch who rée- him; and the reigning Sultan berits bis imperial dignity, not from bis ‘ but from his brother, the ex-Saltan whose fate is shrouded’ with the darkest mye tery. —_ +00 — ‘What She Thought. From the Detrott Free Press. Is was 11:90 p.m. and the clock marked the half bour with « sharp bang. ‘The young man looked hastily around. ‘The giri wearily. “Ob,” be said, with « short laugh, “4 almost startied me.” “I beg your ” said the “ft iunonk articd swe," ‘be repeated. poe exense me,” she apologized, ‘I it almost started you. 7°Gis got out during the nas! ton minsten, ———— ‘A Firet-Ciase Kicker. ‘From Lite.