Evening Star Newspaper, December 5, 1891, Page 10

MEN WITH NEW TOGA: Seventeen New Senators to Enter This Congress, CHANGES OF TWO YEARS. An Unprecedented Inflax of New Comers— In two years this staid and continuous old ody has been renewed to the extent of two- fifths of ite number by men wholly untried in {ta forms and methods of legislation. The new Senators represent a good ‘There are among them what diverse talent. — at ‘and there are “old stagers,” “silk stockings” and “‘bayseeds.” At least one is « millionaire, another is # physician, several are Printers, one fon clergyman,s number are lawyers. They Sepresent politically all shades of belict—a more motley crowd in this respect was never before ‘seen. ad ste of | enter ‘There is Mr. Peffer, who is an advocat emras pry rs alliance with republican leanings, and Mr. bs ‘who will temper his loyalty to the alliance the Totaly vanquiches, his toes, oExa! Tr ily seed S| if & 1 i Fr 2 a ; is Uh : r i i Ha i tl] a t & if seen another : F cE HH BE Ohio, is a decidedly new spesimen of senatorial timber. Ho is about fifty years old, a spare HINT i fr BE aE $ Be z 4 ib cB Bi i | i i ie Ps i Hy f i a walt il af i HEE 3s nt Hn s & ey at 3 i 3 & Ey ; fr F F £ i 4 5 ; i t 4 Davideon is a rock-rooted democrat of the old | PY De time sort. Ho isa native of Gadsen county, Fia., and studied law at the University of Virginia. For several years before the war he satin the state the confederate Teply, asking what on earth he moant by . “Beeause I could make $40,000 Brice's answer, and the governor down. When Brice, a week later, of the deal. With this asa beginning he went | has street and mete hie immense fortune. THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON. D.C, SATURDAY. DECEMBER 5, 1891-SIXTEEN PAGES. 1X THE RULES ARE Hew It ts That Behind All Etiquette There ‘Lies Reeeon, ‘TER SUBJECT DISCUSSED FROM 4 SOCIETY Max's POINT OF VIEW—COMMOK SENGR OF TABLE ‘MANNERS—ETIQUETTE ON A STREET CAR—TRE SAVAGE AND THR CIVILIZED MAX. a ‘HAT NONSENSE THE RULES OF etiquette are, anyway!” “T beg to differ with you, Noodles,” said that ind | wise old boy, Bibbs. Dubois, tho sitting te in the House, for illiam Clagett, and will eoutest Mr. Dubois’ Ft pupors. _right to his seat. Dubois fs a good illustration of the ups and downs of Politics, A few years was trying to 4 1,200 clerkship hero in Washin ow he os Unied platens ee a1 ei ay galore to giveaway. He fc Years old. His father was Jesse K. Dubois, « well-known charactor in tho ,state, familiarly called “Uncle Jesse,” and a warm friend of President Lincoln. ' After public school ed- ueation at Springfield, Dubois went to Yale, whero he graduated with 72. Ho clerked for a while with J. V. Farwell in Chicago and thon entered tho state auditor's office nt Springfield. He soon became secretary of the board of rnil- Fay And ware house commissioners in Iilinots and bid fair to become an influential politician. On account of illshealth he started for Idaho, taking a herd of cattle to Cheyenne. In 1882 he was appointed United States marshal for the territory. By his uncompromising fight on the Mormons he got a start in politics and was elected delegate to the Firtieth Congross. He also served in the Fitty- firet Congress until the admission of Idaho. Dubole isa young mm, but au old head rests on his shoulders. ‘and frequent ——— of the democrats as | and lieutenant c here is Jobn H. Palmer, wit way om drilled into him half a the sixth Florida: He received a wound M. ‘ago, when the memory of Old Hickory | 28, 1864, which rendered him unable to ao Ethe synoayusof practical politics." Ombetting be on, [set we 7 demserats are Col. Vilas and Cal. the kind of a man Grover From the south comes John B. ive new-school democrat, wVidson, an old-fashioned soutb- congressional directory, when it is |, Will classify the now recruits as follows: 5; democrats, 9; Farmers’ Al- , $. This summing up shows a gain of one seat for the republicans and three for the democrats. The death of Senator Hearst of pointed by Gov. Jackson to enter on the term whose name | farther military service. He was a member of the constitutional convention of the state in 1865. He sat in the Forty-fifth, Forty-sixth, Forty-sey- guih, Fortr-eighih. Forty-ninth, Fiftioth ana Pifty-first Congresses. In the Fiftieth Congress chairman 5 was of the House committee on ‘SENATOR GIBSON. Charles Hopper Gibson, who has been ap- for which the fate Ephraim King Wilson was elected, has been a As & practical iticfan, with his band on the senna he will enjoy an influence in quite beyond the average power of a Senator or member. SEXATOR CHILTON. ‘The Senate is to lose the stalwart figure of John H. Reagan, the anthor of the interstate commerce law and Jeff. Davis’ postmaster -_ general. Fearful of pun- ment by the Texas leg- islature for his advocacy of prohi . he rea soned that discretion was the better part of valor ‘and accepted the office of railroad commissioner SENATOR CLAGETT. Tadge Clagett, who will contest Dubois’ seat, is Marylander, and comes of an old and honored family. He crossed the plains during the early gold excitemont in California and has roamed all over the west, living in Nevada, Mon- tana, Dakota and ‘Tdaho, practicing law, mining and attending to politics. He served in the Forty- SX second Congress as dele- +gatefrom Montana and originated the bill es- tablishing the Yellow- Galifornia gives a democratic seat to Charley Felton, formeriy @ republican member of the House. Lllinois, New York and Wisconsin each democrats to succeed republicans. Be- sending a Judge Peltor of the al- Mr. Kyle and o Peifor liance. The Senate will therefore stand: Republi- ans, 48; democrats, 27; Farmers’ Allisnce, 3. SENATOR PEFFFR. Of the new Senators none has achieved wider celebrity in less time than Senator Ingalls’ suc- @essor, Judge William A. Peffer. Ho is a a Pennsylvanian, born in © Cumberland county sixty ears ago last September. member of the House for six years past and is weil known. He achieved the distinction of being the handsomest man in Congress. He isa native of Queen Anne county, forty-nine years old. Mr. Gibson was educated at the quaint little col it hestertown, Md., which was named in honor of Gen. Washing- iiton while he lived. In 7 1864 be began practicing law and he declined fourth election as state's attorney for his county, having held the lace for three consecutive four-year terms. drew Johnson named him for internal reve- fe went to the dis:rict | U0 collector for the Eastern Shore, but the fecepe stan oe ore 73 en he began oy At nineteen he Senate wouldn't bave it and refused by a ma- firm. jority of one vote to con! Mr. Gibson will old his seat until the legislature selects bis joined the Argonauts and } Successor. made a small fortune gold bunting in Cali- SENATOR BILL. The northern democrats have no more dis- for the state of Texas, witha salary of 96,0000 ear. To suoceed’ him @ governor appointed Horace Chilton, a prom- iment lawyer. ' Mr. Chil- ton is forty ycars old and s native-born Texau. He HORACE CHILTON. began life in a printe office as a “devil,” worked up to the case and finally started a small newspaper for humeelf. For years he set type and supported hismother and gave his sister an education. He and Gov. Hogg, who appointed him, were enguged in the same newspaper office in 1870. While working im this way he studied law and now ranks among the first lawyers in Texas. Largo fees have made him rich. Ho is a graceful orator and a close reasoner. He will rank among the strong men of the Senate. SENATOR GALLINOER. New England makes but two changes in the Senate. Mr. Blair of New Hampshire re and Dr. Jacob H. Gallinger takes his place; the resignation of Judge Edmunds brings Secre- stono Park. He also $ served as president of the convention that WM. CLAGETT. framed the constitation of the state of Idaho. ‘There is no precedent on which to restJudge Clagett’s claim and hie chances of success are slim. A somewhat similar case ocenrred in Florida in the reconstruction period and the Senate committee on elections then decided that the same legislatare could not elect two different men for the same term and_the first chosen could not be denied his seat. It is wap posed the Mormon interest is concerned in the effort to oust Dubois, 3 ——_——+e+—______ TOBACCO IN PERSIA, A Country Where the Weed is Considered the First Necessary of Life. (THE PLack occurizD By ToBacco in the estimation of the people of Persia is altogether different from that assigned to it in Enrope and America, writes the United States consul goncral at Teberan to the Department of State. There it is removed from the sphere of fornia. In_ 1852 he re- married and settled ona re-| tinguished representative than Gov. David turned to Pennsylvania, | Bennett Hill, who. succeeds William Maxwell tary Proctor to the Sen- ate. Dr. Gallinger is doubtfal luxuries and held as one of the chiefest articles of daily neceasity. The Persian fornia and emigrated to wuthwestern Missouri. In 1861 he en- listed in the eighty-third linois yo! unteera and served until the surrender at Ap- | England st x. He derived his title New nd stock. His edu- gained in the of judge, by | schools of Havanna, his Citich he is familiarly known, from his ectviea nervy td py yes as judge advocate during the war. This line of duty Jed him to study law, and after the war Ww office of Gabriel L. Smith from Concord, the capital city of the granite state. Be was born a British subject, in the province of Ontario. In early life he wns a printer, but the jortunity to study todicine ‘changed bis plans and in 1858 he be- gan @ practice which now extends beyond the limits of his own state. 3, GALLINGER, pipe is a social institution and exercises a greater influence than aught else in promoting happiness. A bargain is rarely made, a eon- tract signed, a visit paid or any function per- formed, however solemn or affecting, without the intervention of the pipe. ‘An increase or reduction in the prico of to- baceo affects for good or evil almostevery man, woman andchild inthe kingdom. As food, he settled in Clarksville, Tevn., and began — In 1870 he moved to Wilson county, , where he took up a claim and tried farm- ing. Later he went to Fredonia, Kan., where he established the weekly Fredonia Journal. Then he started the Cotfeyville Journal, and lived in Coffeyville till 1380, serving one term of Elmira, to which city Hill removed in 1868 and where, a year later, he was admitied to the’bar. He began to make demo- cratic speeches when he was seventeen years old.” He reached his majorit time to vote for Gen. McClellan in 1864, and that He sat in the New Hampshire legislature, in ‘the constitutional convention in 1876 and the state sonate in 1878, 1879 and 1880, deing president of that body the last two years, He was for a year or two surgeon general of New Hampshire, with the rank of brigadier general, fie was clectod chairman of, the re. publican state committee in September, 1882, clothing, warmth and light have, where the means are small, to be provided for in subordi- nation to the constant demand for smoking, these first requisites of # healthy existence are often sadly curtailed. & NATIONAL CALAMNTY. A failure of the tobacco crop could be little im the state senate. Ho went also as a delegate to the national republican convention of 1880. Removing to To} in that year, he took charge of the Aansas Farmer, of’ which afterward became the proprietor, When the alli- ‘nce movement began be saw his chance and ‘went to work for it with a will. Kansas was largely due to it. Besides its litical columns it is a decidedly well-edit Journal, containing in each issue a Vast amount of farmers’ lore. SENATOR EYLE. ‘The new Senstor from South Dakota, Jobn HK. Kyle, is a bright, interesting young Congre- gational minister. He was born at Xenia, thirty-eight years agoand is therefore an Gnusually young man to wos 1882, and then preached for 's year or two ina i chureh in ‘nnd alittle later bet secretary 9 3 . KYLE. of Yankton College. + He hasbeen a member of the South Dakota state senste. He succeeds aeene Moody, an sble lawyer, who itly expected to be re-elected, having el mM a8 ® senator, once befc Dakote was divided and admitted. Mr. Kyle an eloquent speaker and well read man and ae shrewd and practical in politicsas if he were not of the cloth aud one of the boys. SENATOR rusyY. ‘The third alliance Senator is Col. John Lau- fens Manning Irby, who takes the eeat of Wade Mempton. He is the youngest man who bas entered the Senate since the war, bei out thirty. seven years’ old. several years at but in 1878 aban soc bmengee A ps state. sis own hel; own craps, telligent ond enterprising devotion to his work enjoys a handsome income. He bas always been a Hampton democrat, antil the ‘up, when be id later became chairma ce,sinte commiten, Col. Toy isa ne ue, complexion ind bounding belt. fie'a well lelormed and @ ready debater and eloquent epeaker. ‘BEXATOR OORDON. Of the straight-out democrats from the south same year he was admitted to partner- ship with Judge Smith. Six years later ho was sent to the legisatare. Attracting Mr. Tildon’s attention be became one of his ardent support ers. In 1882 he was chosen mayor of Elmira, as Grover Cleveland had been of jo. He made race for the gubernatorial nomination in bolster up President Arthur's prospects for re- election, was snowed under democratic ma- jority of 190,000. Gov. Hill, it should be said, ta majority about 5,000 greater than Sic. “cieveland. “When im “isss” Gov Cleveland became President Gov. Hill succeeded him as governor of New York and the ensuing fall was re-elected. He has traveled all over New England, the west and the south since he has been governor and has built up a strong political following. As he is a bachelor and may some time be President, Washington society will receive him with outstretched arms. SENATOR VILAS. William Freeman Vilas is the favored son of the Wisconsin democracy. His election was the result of one of those ground swells likely any time to occur in a state having a large ele- 5 ment of foreign - born tion. An obnox- lous school law, supposed to militate against Cath- olies and Lutherans, is re- ble for the defeat John ©. Spooner, his able and popular prede- ceaor. Col. Vilas was born in Vermont, where his father, Judge Vilas, was a moniber of the leg- islature and a prominent citizen before his removal to Wisconsin, bis home juring the years of his W. ¥. VILAB. Greatest activity and influence, ‘The family ts led from Richard de Vilas, one of the Crusaders. It is not a numerous family in this country and the new Senator from the badger state ie its most distinguished and holds the place now. He served in the Forty-ninth and Fiftieth Congresses. ‘THE RETIREMENT OF JUDGE EDMUNDS. ANorman baron translated from the thir- teenth century, galvanized by modern man- ners, drone hand costume, and planked down in the front row of seats on the republi- can side of the Senate chamber would not look unlike the senior Senator from Vermont, who now resigns his seat to Secretary Proctor. His bald crown and snow-white board (once, they say, a rich brown) challenged the sobri: quet of Bt. Jerome, but the strong eyes, willful nose and sturdy frame aro those of the Nor- man, as the name is also. Senator Edmunds is now aixty-three years old, snd be has spent twenty-five in the Senate. He was appointed and his first pred tution recognizing w! He stood by Stanton and did his boat to oust Andy Jobnson. He agreed with Charles Sum- ner in the San Domingo affair, but aisapproved of the quarrel with President Grant. He suc- cessfully opposed seating Pinchback as Senator from Lonuisians. He ipay , rages the specie ‘ion movement. t greatest of all tive achievements was the electoral commission by which Mr. Hayes received a peaceable color of title to the presidency. SENATOR PROCTOR. To sacceed such s man Redfield Proctor comes only with the experience of two execu- tive positions—that of governor of Vermont and Secretary of War an- der the Harrison admin- le only as citizens. i account Senator Edmunds’ ab- sence. Yet he {sa man of strong character, a mas- ter of details and of men, a shrewd reasoner and s Iain, convincing talker. je is rich, owns the vas marble ‘quarries that make the Green moun- tain state famous and to wealth adds mental and leu- | moral worth—the brain and by an in- | speech at ‘tay, of becoming Vice President ce they day. In Illinois Jobn M. Palmer's name has been s household word for forty years. He belongs to that pioneer school of politicinn< of which Lizeoln and and stamina that mark the successful New Englander. SENATOR FRLTOX. Ex-Congressmsn Felton, who will sorve out the term for which the late Senator Hearst was elected, is a short, brusque, biun' ing man. He was 4 Reet boy in Erie county, . ¥., but be is now worth’ his millions, and hasbeen highly honored bie He less than @ national calamity, and would be at- tended with consequences of a moral and sani- tary nature out of all proportion to the loss from an industrial and commercial point of view. Any cause which has the effect of rais- ing the price of tobacco (for a Persian will smoke) diminishes, to a very considerable de- gree, the power to purchase the actual neces- saries of life. The fertilizer generally used for growing the tobecco is a mixture of ashesand pigeons’ dung. In order to procure an abundant supply of the , numerous large mud towers, having walls extensively perforated with holes largo enough for the bird to roost, nyits eggs, hatch and bring up its young in, are built on the out- skirts of towns and villages and on the tobacco plantations. As trees are scarce and enemies numerous, the birds flock in great numbers to the safety and security afforded by these places of refuge. TO FLAVOR THE PLANT. In some places it is customary, when the plant 1 about half grown. to make an incision in the stem and insert one or two spikes of dried clover into the internal cavity. From these it is supposed the sap extracts a cortain amount of flavor,which becomes absorbed inte and adds a pleasant ‘Tere are. three roduced in Persia. The first, called “tomba- 00,” grown in Sheeraz, Ispahin and Khoras- san, is used only for the kulean or nargile, and supplies the — of the export je. The second, ied “tuttoon,” grown in Koordistan, Kermanshah, Ooroomeeyah and other parts of Azerbijan, js used solely for the chibouk, or long pipe, and is also exported in considerable quantities to Arabin, Asin Minor and the Caucasus. The third, called ‘‘cigurette tobacco,” grown in the provinces of Ghilan and Mazanderan, on the south shore of the Caspian wea, is used, as ite name implies, for making cigarettes, and is,with the exception of what is consumed in Persia, exported entirely to Russia, THE MAIDEN’s cunt. ‘There is also another variety, though it does not enter into commerce, grown in the vicinity of Sheerazand known as “duckhter b,”” i.e., the maiden’s plait or curl, a name derived ther from the resemblance of ita pared rolls to ® you: 1's braided hair Erbecause the hands of fre alone con fidered gentle enongh to guther its delicate ves. Tobacco as an article of export oconpies third placo in importance of the productions of Porsia. ‘The order is rice first, opinm secondand tobscco third. ‘The growth of tobacco in Persia amounts to 1,021,700,776 pounds annually. ee ‘The Achievements of Women's Clubs. ‘From the Forum. It is through this dominant thonght of doing was | something active for bettering the condition of women, and consequently the rest of mankind, that—after many years of straggle, first by the “Why 90?” “Because, my dear boy, your remark is made without thinking, like » few others of yours ‘that I have heard at times.” “Thanks!” “Don't mention it. In this case I think I can show you that yousre wrong. It is true that people generally imagine social etiquette to beamere matter of form without sense. Yet you will find that bebind every one of the ¢ | Fegulations and formalities which control polite people there is a good common-sense reason. Just les me mention to you an example or two.’ “Have a cigar before you begin! Tul thank you for one of those matches, Now fre ‘away and I'll listen with resignation.” “Well, consider so commonplace a matter as the rulo which declares it ill-bred to eat with one's knife. Thore is a reason for that. We eat in order to live, but civilized — “to desire to subordinate as far us possible th pearance of satisfying a carnal necessity partaking of food, Savages devour their vVinnds as beasts do, tearmg them with Their fingers. Therefore we wish togive to our own dinners as little ax may be of the aspect of gluttony. On this account wo consider it not well-bred to take big mouthfuls, and we are taught from childhood to convey to onr mouths only a morsel ata time. ‘The mor- sel must be small enough, too, to mas- ticate without rendering the chewing of it con- spicuous. Likewise all the actions of refined persons at the table are intended to avoid just such symptoms of gluttonous eagerness as are exbibited by the boor who eats with his knife. His method is but little removed from that of the barbarian who thrusts a stick into the pot and gobbies off the end of it the hunk of prov- ender which ho pulls out.” “T confess I never thought of that.” EXPRESSION OF REFINEMENT. “Follow the idea out and you will discover that all the etiquette of the table is based upon it. Good manners at dinner are the best pos- sible expression of the refinement by which we try to mark the difference between ourselves atid the brates. Why is it not good form to spread a napkin over tho chest? Simply be- cause we ure not supposed to devour our food so ravenously as to distribute it over our per- sous, It is proper to hold the napkin in the lap, for the reason that the dropping of a mor- sel beyond the edge of the tatleclath, cannot always be avoided, and also the piece of linen is intended to wipe the fingors upon. The various knives, forks, spoons, ‘and glasses beside the plates must be used for the different Purposes intended, else the ar- rangements which Lave been made so carefully to make a dinner party run easily will be inter- fered with. When you takea lady into dinner, you always give her your right arm and not your left, because she will be seated at your right, and in that way you find it easiest to fall into your respective places. Curiously enough, in pictures and on the stage men are almost invariably represented as offering their left ‘arms in such a case.” RESPECT TOWARD WOMEN. “How about doffing the hat?” “That is purely aconventional sign of respect, but it means something. In ancient times, when men wore helmets or other covering to protect their hoads, it was customary for an inferjor in the presence of his superior to in- dicate obedience and submission by removing his casque. It was as much asto say ‘I am at your mercy.’ The idea survives in the rule which obliges agentieman to takeoff his hat to a lady. ‘Ihe respect which we show to women, our manners gencrally is intended to exhibit @ gentle consideration for their weakness. Be- cause we stronger sex wo allow them the antages of precedence and otherwise which belong naturally tothe stronger. Thus one gives his seat to a lady in a horse car, helps her Into her carriage and stands aside while she enters or leaves a room first. In going down stairs usually the proper rule is that man shall precede, as should be the case also in get- ting out of a vehicle, in order that he may be ready to catch her in case she should stamble, It is not expected that she will fall, but by the exercise of those ‘petits soins’ a gallant man is distinguished. You will find that among sav- ages women are made slaves of and compelled to do all the work, but the civilized plan is just the opposite.” ETIQUETTE OF CLOTHES. “That's rather intercsting. But whatcan you say about the etiquette of clothes?” “The rules which govern dress in polite so- ciety are based on reason also. It is a matter of course that there should be a distinct style of costume for occasions of festivity. ‘To wear silks and satins in the morning is considered vulgar, because they are not appropriate to the hours when work is to be done. Appropriate- ness is the soul of good taste in dress. What- ever in the way of costume lacks fitness in com- mon sense for the occasion ou which it is worn in not good form. In the evening, which is the time for play, women adorn themselves as much as possible and display as far 48 is considered modes: tho beauty of their persons, unveiling their necks and arms. A certain uniformity of fashion is de- sirable at all times, since there must alwars be a prevailing and accepted standard of the bean- tiful, aud an oddly teathered bird in a flock does not harmonize well. Besides, to be attired unhke one’s fellows is to excite attention, and that is not agreeable. Hence a lady or gentle- man seeks to keepin the fashion and to be neither behind it nor abead of it. ‘The men are content to admire the brilliant plumage of the fairer sox and to afford in their own apparel a mere background for its display. Among bi and beasts the male is almost invariably the handsomer animal, and such is even the case with savage races of mankind, but in this point again civilized man turns things about.” “The Duke of Sutherland went toa party in ‘New York in a shooting coat.” “That was because he did not think it was worth while in America to bea gentleman. If bad been his host I would have requested him to leave the house. His action in that matter was a deliberate insult. It was as much us to say; ‘I have not sufticient respect for you to take the trouble to dress‘for the enter- tainment for which you have invited me. costume in which I would visit the stables is od enough for meeting you and your friends.’ Anat isa tai illustration ‘of the reasonableness dreus. wears, as well as by whathe does, consideration for his fel- low beings. Ihave kuiown @ woman to makes ractice of visit _ in her shab- Piast clothes booatus sho feared ts ottensa thea by the contrast of her own fine On the contrary she should have been most care- ful fo don her best bib and) tucker, inasmach as those she went to see would necessarily im- ne that she thought any old garments suffi- chontly good to call upon them fa" women suffrage societies, then by the Woman's | 2gail Christain Temperance Union, and later by the agitation in the clubs—the sex has gained the Fight to vote on school mattors in twenty-eight states in the Union; that women can serve in hospitals as physicians and nurses; that women have been aliowed to protect the eatactanate of Own sex as matrons in police stations, See es cages ot saed eke bee tes of granted, and in several others posal beings to whom Fight, at one time, 0 learn the alphabet A Feminine Triumph, From the New York Weekly. And what is that” ‘ail ts tine ¢ bie is gots? Er = SEWELET FOR CHRISTMAS. Some of the Beautiful and Costly Things Which Tempt the Holiday Shopper. BOW ENOTS OF GOLD AND SILVER VERT xUCH Ix ri VARIEGATED PRARIS—a SEW GEM CALLED “OLIVINE” —aLi soRTs OF LUXURIES IN SILYER—COSTLY PANS OF LACE. OW KNOTS ARE ALL THE RAGE IN Jewelry for the coming Christmas. They ornament pretty nearly everything, from ladies’ brooches to appurtenances for the toilet, Gold and silver are the materials out of which they are made. Some for breastpins are set with little pearis. In scarfpins for men the bow knot prevails likewise as @ design, though bugs with moonstone abdomens, cunning gold tea kettles, and particularly large single pearls, if the purchaser can afford such a luxury, are Ukewise in favor for the cravat. Some of the bow knots are held with pearl-headed or dia- mond-headed pins,as if to secure them in shape. Little spheres cut from the shell of the pink conch are a novelty, as are also what look like black pearls, though really they are simply “hematite,” a form of iron ore. Olivine is a new and beautiful gem discovered im time for this Christmas. It fooks like emer- ald, though more of an olive hue, whence the name, and judging from its expensivencss it is considered to rank with the most costly of the Precious stones. Sometimes it is sot alter- nately with pearls in bow knots of gold or otber ornaments. A new design is two outhned together, one set with small pearls and the other with garnets. Variegated Pearls are quite a striking novelty, several of we ‘gems of ocean” being set together 80 ns to form a lovely contrast in many tinte. Pearls ordinarily are white. but they occur also in other hnes—pink, green, biue, black, &c.—at fancy prices. Five hundred doliars will pur- chase quite a handsome brooch of veriegeind vely Pearls sot off with small diamond: mee still popular and topazes will be very much the his year. Finge are in similar designs. Moo fashion t] NOVELTIES IN SILVER. In articles made of silver there isa far greater Variety than ever before. Very many of tho novelties are for men, so that young ladies need hardly be at loss any more to find suit- able gifts for their male relutives and friends. For the family physician there is a little silver tube which serves aga case for a temperature thermometer. A tiny silver box for stamps is made to put in @ snug cotner of the pocket. It is in the shape ofan envelope, with a postage stamp and postmark in the upper right-band corner. The address of the recipient is etched upon it by the jeweler, to order, in miniature fac similo of the handwriting of the giver. A match box is somewhat similar, representing ona small sesle a copy of a newspaper ins wrapper, dul, and stamped. Silver pencils are made in all sorts of fan! shapes. Onc represents a little pipe, another cigar, another a biue-headed match, and at other a tenpenny nail. ‘This last, though actu- ally of oxidized silver, looks 60’ exactly like real tenpenny nail that no one would pick it up in the street, That is just tho beauty of it. Silver pencils are also made on a telescopic principle, extending to the length of nearly » foot, though very small when closed up. An innovation of not a very expensive char- ter is a “Washington letter opener,” which i a little silver knife with a head of the father of his country on the handle. Emery strawberries of the latest style, for sewing purposes, are beautifully made, with silver leaves. Silver name plates for hats are new. ‘Ihey bear the name of the owner, and can be readily trans- ferred from one bat to another. Key rings are made of silver in the shape of wisubones, and steel tapes in little silver boxes are appropriate for persons who have to do measuring. Eg; Blasses, reckoning three minutes by the ont are of silver this year. VARIETIES IN SPOONS. Of novelties in spoons there is no end. There is the Cavalleria Rusticana coffee spoon, which bas a gold bowl representing the half of a nut, with handle of asilver twig bearing a leaf or two. Eut on this general design there are many Variations. ‘ho latest Washington spoon has the profile of the old gentleman in the bowl, the dates of bis birth and death on the back of the bowl and bis famiiy crest on the handle, the form of the article being a faithtal copy of a real spoon ouce in use at Mount Vernon. Small Washington ladies of antique pattern are likewise copied from one that used to belong to the immortal George, the very defects of the original caused by wear being reproduced. A bigger style of ladle is destined to gratify the taste of persons who want something essentially American, Inside the bow! is the obverse of ver dollar of the year 1749, while the reverse of the same coin is found on the back. Cunning tea strainers of silver are made to imitate the dip nets used for fishing. Glass decanters have sketches of bunting scenes done in silver applique work on their outside. A silver check cutter suitable gift to offer & millionaire husband, not to mention shaving brushes, Whisky flasks, cigar lighters and tele- graph blank of the same valuable ma- teri Nowadays my Indy ia not content unless her toilet table is turni throughout with silver. She must have silver-back brushes and combs, silver manicuring tools, asilver glove stretcher, sailver cold cream box, and receptacles for tooth powder, cologne and pomades of silver and cut glass, Inkstands and all theappliances for writing should be of silver also, even to the hollow silver stick which holds the sealing wax and bas the seal iteolf at one end. WHITE LEATHER Goons. White leather is tho newest thing for card cases and pocket books, which have silver mountings in addition, Prayer books and hymnals are of similar make, for meck and lowiy worsbipers, though the more expensive ones have gold mountings. Some gold-mounted card cases cost as. much as $25 each. Leather and silver-mounted affairs are for hanging in the hallway, with movable parts bearing the words “In'’and “Out,” according tothe where- abouts of the mistress. This isan adaptation of business methods to social arrangements, Itshould not be forgotten to mention silver- mounted writing pads,which are very desirable ifts. Penwipers are held in silver cl wen the straps for fastening umbrellas and canes together when one goes traveling have silver buckles, This is au age of luxury such ashae never been imagined before, notwith- standing all thatone reads of the comparatively barbarous indulgence of the ancient Greeks and Romans. ‘Their most reckless expenditure could not produce a fraction of the beauty and nse available nowadays. If ever there was & time when it was well worth while to be rich that day isnow, as any one will edmit who Visits the shops, The jewelers particularly seem to spare no effort in tempting the desire of the purchaser with seductive novelties. STYLES IX OPERA GLAssEs. Opera glasses for waistcoat pockets are quite new. They are very tiny and are made of aluminum, so as to be wonderfully light, Bigger ‘ones of the same material have long handles like those of lotgnettes, which render them very much easier to hold and look through. than ever this A GOOD SAMARITAN. Her Experience With “Homes™ While Help- ing ® Dranken Woman in the Street. From the Chureb Union. On returning from church two weeks ago Sebbath morning 1 wes surprised and pained to sce acrowd of well-dressed bors throwing missiles, dirt and paper at a drunken woman on some steps. The boys were not street urchins byany means. Some of them had fine faces and ail were well dressed—apparently Sunday school boys—and among them were three little The forlorn woman was in a most pitiable condition. I expressed surprise at the boys’ conduct in their treatment of this poor anfor- tunate, and assured them that they had made ® mistake of which they were conscious. While I expressed my confidence in the boys’ better thought, and assured them of my trust in their willingness to join me in trying to help to Denefit this distressed creature, to my surprise this railing drunk. asked her if | and Tere oem from neck to waist, with her Agnus thrown over hez shoulder. My shrinking physical cowardice at the railing, crazy drun the hand of She promised that she would go with m ere that I would take her—to any mission, to my own home, or anywhere else. She was a very heavy woman, and we made slow time in reaching the street car, which was two or three blocks distant. When we bad gotten her into the car, she fell upon the seat and was unable to manage berself. ‘The conductor showed as much qempathy for meas forthe drunken woman. He lifted ber up and placed her on the opposite side in th corner. I sat beside her, and the trip was safely made of about a mile anda half. eg While our patient was taking ber lunch with my cook in the kitchen we were discussing at the family table where she would most surely find ashelter. My brother suggested thatthere was no hope in taking her to any of the mission homes, which are provided ostensibly for such weak, sinful ones, but when we had over the list Taseured him I should take ber to the Florence mission, as I had never failed with any applicant that I had taken there, from the chronic opium women to the girl who claims to desire a temporary home, On our arrival at the Florence mission the head superintendent was out, and we were met at the door by am assistant superintendent and another woman, who stood with the door open but a very little way, who refused to take in this woman, on the ground that they never provided for any per- son of ber age. Jorence mission I walked the long From the distance across town and up to Washington Square to the Wetmore Home, with my very heavy, wearisome patient, as I was obliged to hold'on to her as she reeled along the streets. Bat on our arrival, my patient was not of the class which the Wetmore Home was willing to receive. She was rejected very much after the same fashion as at the Florence mission. Iwas assured that no woman could be re- ceived there who, was over twenty-five years of age. Hero, by request, I was permitted to leave my patient in chair in the hall while I went for @ carriage, as by this time my right arm was eo lame from the swaying of the reeling woman that I was nearly exhausted and I felt that I was justified in taking a cab, as I could not betray the poor creature's confidence by tak- ing her to.astation house, which seemed to be the only alternative. At the Wetmore Home I was assured that the St. Barnabas Home had been established for just suck women and that I would surely find ‘accommodation for her there. We drove to the St. Barnabas Home, to meet a similar reception, as the head superin- tendent stated that “We never tke women here who are under the influence of liquor,” though she assured me that the Hopper Home on2d avenue was established for this es- isl purpose. I was well acquainted with the lopper Home.and had attended many meetings there,and knew this home to be kept up in the in- terest of discharged prisoners. | felt very doubtful whether my patient would be re- geived. Still, I drove directly to the Hopper Home on 2d avenue. Here the superintendent and another woman at the door were not in- lined to admit her even into the hall, us the superintendent said they never received any women under the influence of liquor. her if she knew of any place in the city where women in her condition could be received and cared for. She replied: “None, except the station houses.” I asked her if the woman could be received in the Hopper Home if I should take her to my own home and keep her until she was entirely free from the effects of liquor. She replied that she could, and then questioned the woman whether she had ever been inany home for inebriates, &c. My tient answered ail the questions satisfactori! and the superintedent agreed to take her tho next Gay, if I would take care of her until then. Idrove back to my home, and as I had no suitable place or attendant for this patient for the night, I concluded to make one more ef- fort and drove to the Margaret Strachan Home on West 2ith street. Here I did not attempt to have my patient leave the carriage, but went up the steps and was met by the assisiant superintendent and another woman, to whom I made application, and the response was so dif- ferent bozh in tone and manner I felt sure there must be some mistake and asked for the bead superintendent, who at that moment came to ‘the door. ed her under what conditions or rules of the institution « wretched woman could be received. She lied: “We have no rules and no conditions. Any woman in dis- tress needing help we receive at any hour of the day or night, unless we are full aud can take no more. She informed me that the; were very full, and the night before they had been obliged to make up a number of beds on the floor, at the same time offering to go down to the and help me bring in the . But by this time the patient was quite able to go ap me steps by herself, ns we had spent most of the Sabbath afternoon in rir abont the streets of the city. The Margaret Strachan Home was founded in 1883 by gn earnest, faithful Christian the ‘27th girls who frequented these houses. Thishome, with ite trate isa marvelous example of the Heavenly Father's pitying care and the verifi- cation of Scripture, that He bas chosen the weak things this world. The landiord, tor- mented beyond measure by the complaints of Christian people referring to the nuisances of ia houses, one of them became vacant accepted Margaret Strachan’ 1 and let her fiave it rent free for one mouth to estab- received into the home 1,400 persons; sent to the hospital, 68; left of their own ao- cord, 87; dismissed, 62; found places for self-support for 667; restored to their families, 617; gone to housekeeping, 116; by acommitteo or an association of women, have purchased Nos. 6 and 7, four-story I" sp which tre admiteed wi ‘these | Whomsoever is in need and as many as the house will hola. We would recommend any Becoveleat work, bo send gate te this esa or nt money, new or second-hand This is the only home we know of in New York which is ready and willing creat ‘woman or cbild. ghee i a ah Hl 5 z i m Woman gave place to faith im | i THE sexys. Men and Women as They Protect Them. erlves Aguimet the Riementa. From the 8. Louis Glote Democrat. “Why, papa, how warm you must he! Heavy shoosand pants and cost, and now a big, heavy overcoat—I haven't got near that much on. ‘This remark was made by @ Little girl less than ten years old addressed to her father, who was just drawing on « big fiannel- lined overcoat preparatory to going out with her. She was what would be said by mothers to be warmly clad. The incident gave a very clear illustration of a chil: ference in dress between man and woman The former is generally regarded as the hardier of the sexes, but in the matter of dress and protection frim the weather the woman must be given first place. She droses Gay after day and exposes herself to all sorts of weather in an be aeomed reckiess on the Whistling along a! the rate of twenty miles an hour, and the servines a balf en hour long, the man is expected t# remove ia hat from his head. To not do so would be an act of irreverence, as well ase shew of dis- Tespect for the dead. ‘The woman, on be other hand, would be thought very singular if «! mored the least bit of her headwear. It bes usual for her to even unloosen « veil. Feverence and respect as aur. ne ‘The idea of a man running such risk ing we cend by exposing bis head to euch weather certaii be. senseless orig, THE COMPARINON OTRERWIRR. ‘There is not much excuse for the #oman's Rot being as warmly clad as the man, however. The trouble is generally with her vawity, and the customs and styles dictated by vai man’s dr m the gr He bas good, heavy, substantial «hone bers in seasonable' weather. feet are clad im sensible aud are never seen, and he are, as they are tor comf Folded under their top heavy underclothing, which r Then there is the benvy, outer suit, the heavy overcoat, reach: snkles if desired, the soulskin pulled down over the enrs, side of this that comfort dc weather is severe enong! most fashionable and b be will simply have the use of his limbs and eyes How differ She i to be , if they ere dai inconsistent best not much more than pasteboard. Often they are only quarter cate, shoes which might appropriately be worn in euch warm weather that bare feet would bes luxery aid not civilized rules proh Under these are pretty hore, thin and of fine texture, reaching to the knee. Her underclothing, ber skirts, her wraps may all be warm, but bow ber tender feet aud limbs must suffer from the cold pavements and whistling winds of winter. Then when it comes to the Lead, there ie often Dut a tittle bit of a hat or bonnet, the forehead and the ears entirely uncovered, except #t may | be for a veil so delicate that it will not hide ber features. In this attire she goes out shopping, ben sturdy man is inside st his stove, if. pas: sible, or if m out is beavily clad warm materials. ‘The inconsietencies of woman's dres are especially referred to by reformers. Here iva picture of one of them, pointed out on Olive Street one of the very cold days Inst woek: She was pushing through a nv « of other Jadies et a fashionable dry goods howe She worea magniticent seals! ing the ground, a garm something near €1,000, or considerably over balf that amount at lenst. On her bead @ne @ very email bonnet, which could not be seid to beany protection at all. Her face was cor- ered bya very thin veil, while her bair was dressed in the latest style. There was nothing flashy about her to give a suggestion of she wus simply fashi and, sisters generally would say rtably, wt- tired. The climax came when she raised her cloak to go up the stops. There was a display of « very pretty foot, but it was dressed in = very thin shoe, and that a quarter cut. She bed better bave had it wrapped in paper. A‘ the seme pout was teen s lady comfortably clad, asthe rules go, and carrying a beautiful maf. But when she pulled het pretty hand out of i it was only to expose a tight-fitting white kid ove. A nice warm mitten or knit glove would ve been in bad taste. Anuthcr case was euenet the theater the second cold evening of the pres ent wave. The audience was a strictly faskion- able one, and the young lady instanced was one of the prettiest in it—iu form, in features end in dress. Bat for out of doors ber only wrap was a cloth jacket, custly material and very pretty to look at, but reaching only to the top pi the skir. | Hor escort, in contrast, hed = eavy overcoat, reaching to the knees, and pro- vided with a collar which would cover his ears THE DEAUTY OF THE Fret. The great fault, however, is found in the dressing of the fect. A woman's foot, if it ie small and neatly formed, is one of the grestest objects of masculine admiration, and man is to blame for having caused bis sister to be so wain of such « possession. But the demage bas been done, and it will take the woaring of time to undo it Woman cannot thus be altogether blamed for standing by thin and tightly fitting shoes and declaring war om rubbers unless the weather is so very sloppy that she is compelled to wear them. A gentleman, speaking of this the otber evening. said that was the only trouble be ever bad with his wife be sbopping any more than she would to wear heavy shoes in the drawing room. He argued that looks did not matter, health was the first consideration, and he argued it every time ehe was going out, before leaving the house bis- self. “But,” be concluded, “I could never get her to wear them unless i was at home she went out. Then, if shedid not put them on, J insisted on ber remaining indoors, and I generally won.” The expericuce of this gen- is that of many other husbands and and by a continuation of their warfare is to be hoped that they will be able to@o away with the denth-invitimg shoe now tash- le. If it could only be mades fad succom would certainly be quick. i 1 i H I A EF fz i [lbs © H HH Hitt the i to receive any forlorn | the