Evening Star Newspaper, November 7, 1891, Page 10

10 SOFT AND WARM TINTS Fashionable Materials and Colors for Orisp November Weather. THE CAPE-SHAPED MANTLE Two Shades for Walking Dresses—Many Va- rieties of Popular Colore—It Pays to Get ® Becoming Dress— Vests and Cloth Gowns— ‘What Takes the Place of Jet Garniture, Special Correspondence of The Evening Star (Copyrighted. } New York, November 6, 1891. OVEMBER ATMOS- phere has « crispness and aclearness which are very favorable to the display of soft, warm tints. No one knows this better than the intelligent woman of fashion, who invar- iably adjusts tho tones of her costumes to what she calls the “weather,” but which in reality means the light. call for one sort of light and some for another, and it is no small difficulty for the fashionable woman to determine under what conditions a gown will light up well. Novem- —.> ber, too, has this pe- euliarity about it, it is pre-eminently the month for wraps, and this alone endears it to the tall, slender woman who adores wraps. It may safely be said that the cape-shaped, high-shoni- dered mantle is now at the height of its popu- larity. ‘They run in all ines of woolen stuffs, velvets and plushes, and sometimes in combinations of satin and velvet. One, for instance, of gray satin and black velvet ‘brocade struck me very rich and stylish. It was embroidered in arabesques of steel and jet and edged with a thiek chenille fringe, exch strand of which w: finished off by a gray silk ball and two or three steel beads. The initial illustration pictures a very pretty deep cape-shaped mantle in white cashmere decorated with an applique design in velvet, Yepresenting leaves in silver and dark olive green, the borders being of olive green velvet, catlined with silver. The high Henry 1V collar te also in olive green velvet. ‘The gown is of olive green faille, with half sleeves of white eashmere, embroidered in the same way as shoulder ‘cape. Round the waist there eeintare of plain white satin, while running entirely around the hem of the skirt there is an embroidery of white leaves. The bonnet worn with this costume is in olive green velvet, with Black ostrich feathers and striped silk sirings in white and olive green knotted behind, under the hair, and completes an ensemble of rare Fichness and elegance in perfect taste. In the matter of feminine headgear, I may say that a great deal of mauve is to be worn this autumn and green also, and every tint of warm browns or chestnuta For those who like a striking theater bonnet, crimson velvet answers the purpose very weil. It should be : with jet ornaments and lecea In way of trimming. fall bonnets will show a PiSterence for guipure and Venetian lace, thers of course, and fur in some case A STYLISH VELVET roxxeT. ‘My second illustration sets forth a very pretty Dounet of pale blue velvet, the crown being ornamvuted with graduated rows of brown applique. Ths velvet is puffed high, both at the back and in the front, and there is'a taft of Je blue ostrich tips in’ front, the strings be- ing of pale blue satin ribbon. I should add that we on this side of the Atlantic are likely to feel the effect of the present rage in Paris for Russian gowns and toques, and the latter, I can promise, will be quite sure to whose taste runs to gaudy and al- startling effect. The Russian toq is very becoming to a dark-haired and dark- qyedwomen. Ifhes » cloth crown decorated im gold and green embroidery, the brim being of astrachan. Not to overlook the little folks the third | Mlasteation shows a very pretty design for a Ghilt’s aatamn cloak, a woolen stuff in a large checked pattern. This garment is made loose im front and adjusted to the figure at the back Lengthwise in the front sides there is one largo Pleat, which is sewed to the lining at the lower edge of the cloak. The sides of the back be- | low the waist line cross a little. They are | fulier where they join the seam and form | two large pleats. The pelerine, like the cloak, Bas one large pleat in front and falls straight ‘over the sleeves. At the back the pelerine is | divided like the mantle itself. The <ame pleats | must be mace in the lining as in the material iteelf, and there are pleats aino at the neck. | ‘Thi stylish littie garment closes with horn extending a few inches below the | waist line. VARIETIES OF COLOR. It is surprising how many delicate variations ef the same color aro produced nowadays. | Bisek is no longer binck nor white white, and | the same may be said of the grays, lilacs, purples. No matter how exacting | mplexion may be some becoming | found by diligent searching, | Imy to those contemplating new | inter costumes, hurry slowly, and until the very shade has been | found. It may be that biack lace over a helio- ‘silic 19 what you need, or a pale gray may alternate stripes of sdeie ence w. Am euthority in matters of feminine adorn- wont insists that it alwxys pays to give more for a becoming dress. Hasty choice usually re- gults in s gown that one grows tired of in » fow weeks, whercas ® reali Rot thrown aside until it By way of variety the fourth illustration shows a novel design for an interior costume, weil adapted fora studio reception, at which one expects to meet with costumes not strictly in harmony with prevailing modes. This gown Bay bo made up Ira plain and figured sta or in two shades of the same material. The dress STUDIO cosTUMES. proper is made up with a crossed bodice, while the mp in princess form, has broad Tevers with the dress matexial. The over- dress is garnitured its full length with silk gre- Some gowns | jots, My attention was lately attracted bya charm- ing ‘indoor toilet in two shades of gray woolen stnff. It was made princess style, on a founda- tion of a lighter gray, which served as plastron and tab ‘There was a yoke of embroidery which was lined with silk of the color of the Stuff and three bands of embroidery on the darker material, one on the basque, one on the bottom of skirt and one midway CLOTH DRESSES AND FANCY VESTS. Cloth gowns have their plainness relieved by ‘& vest of fancy pattern. The vests, or, more Properly speaking, waistcoats, for they have lapels, pockets and backs of lining for all the world like the masculine garment, are particu- rly stylish, provided the fit be faultless, and the woman’ of fashion now has a number of these fancy vests, so that she may make a change to suit her particular cast of thought or bumor—a lively pattern when feeling in good spirits, a dull one when otherwise. Each tailor- mads dress is supposed to haye several vests of different patterns to go with it. ‘The princess form seems to be quite popular, but the front is invariably jacket form, falling over a tight skirt. One will be quite safe in ordering the jacket with loose sides. provided the skirt be fight and the vest glove-fitting, otherwise not. ¢ is also a marked taste for corselet bod- ices for evening wear. and you may rig up a very pretty evening costume at a small outlay by a full bodice in soft silk of some bright color to be worn with a black skirt and a black corselet. The Tudor sleeves with puffs spring- ing out at the shoulde~ andelbow are becoming to long arms. At this season of the year young people's thoughts turn to all sorts of winter entertain- ments, from amateur theatricals to skirt and flower dances. Last season there were somo very pretty exhibitions of flower costumes at private and semi-public entertainments. ‘ulips, chrysanthemums, roses, holiyhocks, sunflowers and hosts of others were success: fully simulated in silk or satin, and in some cases the imitations were quite effective. The flower made usc of in the costumes represented in my last illustration is the carnation, which made up a very prilliant costume, the leaves going to form the skirt and the green calyxes hanging gracefully from the waist Of course acluster of the natural flower must appear on the corsage. With a little attention to artistic fitness these flower costumes may be used with admirable effect to heighten the particular style of beauty of ench young persoa taking part in the dancing or posturing. JET ORNAMENTATION OVERDONE. There is no doubt that jet garniture of all kinds will be much used on winter dresses, but the huge cabochons have been somewhat over- done and become somewhat vulgarized, so that in their stead you will see tiny beads and nail- heads finely cut in facets. Jet spangles, too, laid closely one over the other in unbroken lines, forming large branching patterns, are genuine novelties. Another novelty is the use of white cloth for trimming purposes, partic ularly for making vests, revers, cuffs and yokes. It is cut in bands, pinked out ‘and laid under a fold of the material round the bottom of skirts, and you often see an under basque of white cloth, both under and upper being cut in tabs. ——— THE WOMAN LAWYER. Her Clients Are Not Chiefly Women, as Would Be Supposed. Mary A. Greene, LL. B., in the Chaatauq le A woman student of the law, whether in an office ora law school, has some peculiar ex- periences. To a singlo woman among aclaas of men the dilemma of the lectures as to a fit ting mode of address is amusing. Most of them will gaze anxiously around, and, fixing the eye upem the lone female. with a sli open the discourse with the word One professor was always careful and courteous enough to begin with the phrase, “Lady and gentlemen!” It is also amusing and gratifying to see the refining effect of the Indy’s entrance into the lectare hall or library of the school. If the up- ised masculine feet do not at once and volun- tarily come down from the table or back of the next chair they are resisted to their right- filplace on the iloor by the hands of some fellow student. Of course there are always ome men who heartily cisapproveof woman's presence with the walls of the law school and sre pleased to show their disapproval in any way short of actually rude conduct. 7 have never known of #ystematically rude behavior toward a woman law student. When the woman lawyer puts out her shingle, or in modern fashion inseribes her name on the marble tablets at the entrance of her building, her first experiences do not differ much from those of her brothers who are just beginning. Perhaps she has o few more among her “irst clients, who go to her because they “think they will get more sympathy from a woman.” When sooner or later they have to be shown the door their reproaches for her in- human hard-heartedness are particularly so- vere, because they “expected better things from a woma: Her clients are not, as many suppose, chiefly women. On the contrary, she is more likely to be employed by men, who want to give her a chance to show what she can do. Therefore r cases are as likely to be questions of busi- ess contracts as controversies that are con- nected with matters popularly supposed to be THE. TIP END OF LAND. A Journey te Patagonia and Terra | fom Del Fuego Described. NO SUCH COUNTRIES NOW. ‘They Have Been Divided Between Chile and the Argentine Republic—How the Partition ‘Was Effected—A New Method of Disciplin- Orv Cononst, Sept. $7, 1891. "HEN YOU AND I WENT TO SCHOOL, dear reader, there was » Patagonia on the maps that we studied, and also @ Terra del Fuego, but now there are no such countries anywhere, the old names still cling to the localities. A few years‘ago it happened by sort of missionary enterprise against their weaker because less civilized neighbors, the Patagonians and Terra del Fuegoans, killing off most of them, enslaving the remainder and dividing their jons between themselves. When it came to a division of spoils the United States was called upon toassist, through her ministers in Buenos Ayres and Santiago, and so entirely to the satifaction of the victors was the matter adjusted that they afterward presented costly testimonials of regard to the ministers aforesaid. a ras that the boundary line o! Chile should be extended dove: tse Zustand then run eastwird just north of the Strait of Magellan, ‘90 that tin ef should have vast or i Chile the strait, ana’ moet f the intend; thus making a correct map of Chile look, as _some- body expresses it, “‘Ifke the leg of 2 tall man, Jong and lean, with a very high instep and several conspicuous bunions.” diffcult to say which country got the best of the bar- Sain—whether the great international water- way and the southwestern archipelago com- priting thousands of unexplored islands, be- ieved to be rich in gold, silver, coal and copper, is most valuable, or the broad plains that fell to the share of ‘the Argentines, which rise in regular terraces from the seaboard to the summit of the Cordilleras as extensive as those that stretch between the _—— river and the mountains of Colorado, and as useful for agricultural purposes as for cattle raising. ‘HOW THE COUNTRY Was DIVIDED. About this high-handed dissection of # peaceful country Mr. W. E. Curtiss says: “It is commonly the custom to divide property after the owner's death, but in this instance the in- heritance was first shared by the heirsand then the owner was mercilessly slaughtered. | They it a grand triumph of the genius of ci lization over the barbarians, but, as in many other cases, the impediment to civilization was swept away in a cataractof blood.” Gen. Roca, a recent president of the Argentine Republic, was the author and executor of the scheme of civilizing Patagonia, and he accomplished it as the eariy Conquistadores introduced Christian- ity—with the keen odge of a sword. The fol- lowing true incidout is. fair sample of his missionary work. The old dividing line be- tween Patagonia and the Argentine was the Rio Negro, a mighty river which flows the torty-first parallel, nearly 1,000 miles north of the Strait of Magellan. The southern end of this greatstretch of country is bleak and barren, being mere shale beds covered with thorny shrubs and coarse grees, upon which nothing but ostriches can subsist; but farther north well-watered pampas rise in successive ter- races up the Andean slopes. During half the year the — of the straits is swept by those fieree winds called pamperos, which are the dread of both navigators and landsmen. time out of mind the Patagonians had been in the habit of driving their cattle from the cold and windy lowlands to winter in the foothills of the Andes—and these gentle savages also had a habit of leaving their herds and their women in the mountains, while they made ex- cursions into Argentina, stealing, burning and Killing. At overy raid- the terror-stricken ranchmen fled toward the cities, so that year by year the frontier line of that republic re- ceded toward the capital instead of advancing. DISCIPLINING THE INDIANS. President Roca—then a general of cavalry, who had won some renown in the war against Lopes, the tyrant of Paragnay—was sont out with three regiments to “discipline the In- dians.” And this is the way he did it: While the Indians were enjoying their customary winter picnic he set 3,000 soldiers to digging an enormous ditch, twelve feet wide and fifteen feet deep, all the way from the mountains to the Rio Negro and gave the diggers particular orders to scatter the earth from the excava- tion in such a manner as to leave no evidence of their work. When the ditch was completed he flanked the Indians with his cavalry and drove them southward on the double quick. Ignorant of the trap that had been set for them the Patagonians galloped pellmell into the waiting grave, wiere presently thousands of men, women and children, cattle and horses, were piled one above another a writhing, screaming, struggling mass. Most of them were killed outright by the fall or were crushed by thos» who tumbled on ‘and the few who managed to crawl out were dis- atched by the sabers of the cavalrymen. fhose who were not driven into the ditch fled eastwardalong the river, hunting for a crossing, which the soldiers allowed no time to make. The Patagonians had no tools for bridge building; picks, spades and shovels were un- known among them, and, as they wore not the wards of any nation, muskets and ammunition had never been furnished them. It was about such a chase as that wily rascal, Chief Joseph of Nez Perces, gave our Gen. Howard a fow years ago, and finally ended in Roca’s driving the Indians into a corner, with the pe Rio Negro behind them, where the slaughter was continued until most’ of the warriors fell. ‘The remainder were made prisoners and dis- tributed among the se ‘regiments of the Argentine army, in which they afterward proved excellent ‘soldiers, and the women and children were sent to the Argentine cities, where they have since been held in a state of semi-slavery by the families of influential men. ‘The dead were never counted, but were buried in the ditch whieh eaused, their d tion, and so Patagonia was wi ont ce, and the great Indian nation which theearly ox- plorers romanced so much about wae nearly exterminated. NOT A RACE OF GIANTS. Both history and tradition have falsely re- them ass race of giants and attributed to them traits of flerconess and courage which they never Probably that _arch- mancer, Pigutetta, who accompanied Magal- hae agelian), the great navi. Pigufetta spun marvelous yarns for the world's edification, which had about as much founda- tion in fact as those of African pigmies, the warrior women that gave their namo century fables. For instance, he gravely as- serted that the Patagonians ‘were of that big- ness that our menne of meane stature cot reach up to, their wayste and they hed biag voyces, so that their talke soemed lyke unto the roar of @ beaste.” Later navigators felt in duty bound to sce and describe as as their had witnessed, Ecep up European interest im the New World, cep up Euro} low Wor ancéeo the fatles crept into history, and many of porte find we speak Patagonia abd Terra del Fuego those re of romance, remain within the new boundaries 7 Hi f within « woman's sphere. When she appears in court the woman at- toraey finds judges and the attending counsel as courteous and as deferential ae would be in her drawing room. They treat her as.an equal, except that will ae- ist her by placing chairs, handing books and papers and doing more favors for her than for their male colleagues. In fact, they treat her very much as they would treat the distin- guished legal lights of the age if they were within the bar—that is, with « deferential cour- tesy. This, of course, is only the case when the woman lawyer behaves asa lady. he as ames detiant and bullying manner, as if to emand special recognition, she will reesive ray she deserves. "But such conduct is, I om oy to say, extremely rare amo: our women at the bar, snd is much lamen’ by others who are in public opinion weighed im the same balance with suck misguided persona Beown—“Yes, he was a brave man—one who could meet death without blanching. Fogg—‘'I see; the gentleman acraag prfeaton pera, or wane aly = continent, where wil some weeks tocome. It more dangerous vo; thn off the ‘costintestor hE 9a5 HE ‘Looking on a map you will observe that the Andes break suddealy near the tip end of the L (te i greatest river on earth, and other sixteenth | 4 Ge Cah fll fF H bl 5 F The Man Who Has Given $200,000to the Smithsonian Institute, ‘ME 18 RIGHTY-NINE YEARS OLD AND LIVES THE ‘LIFE OF A HERMIT ON A LONG ISLAND PARM, DE- VOTING HIMSELF TO SCIEXCE AND FRESH AIR— ‘EE 18 PHILANTHROPIC, THOUGH NOT SOCIAL. ‘From the New York Sun. Those who may take tho pretty road which winds southward and therefore westward from Setauket, L. , will presently come into the midst of beautiful farm Jand, not so level as to be monotonous. Just now the brown fields and through the masses of nutumn leaves one miay occasionally get a glimpse of the green waters of the sound with white wind raffles here and there. Old Fields they call this country, which is pleasant to the eye of hhad | the farmer and of the admirer of scenery. belonging to [aed chain of Andes that extends almost un- ken from the Isthmus of Panama to Cape Horn. The Chilean mountains are of the most fantastic description. Their contour is in- ing. There aro scores of glaciers, ‘as any in Switzerland. How can give you an idea of the varying colors, the weirdness and the utter savageness of this ant- scenery? An artist would rave, a post would rhyme. At first I thought of Norway, then of Switzerland, then of Bolivia and then of India; but the unobstructed view of these mountains onaclear day—a very unusual thing in these parts—is much grander than anythi in Norway, quite mal te in Switzer- inna, jo anything in ly surpassed by the ranges of Boli- India. Glaciers so numerous and vast, snow fields so measureless I have never seen in any other part of the globe. And to think that all these beautiful and majestic scenes are al together unknown to the general tourist, and but unknown to even world-wide travelers.’ 4 MIXED COMPANY. There are no American steamers in the southern Pacific, and those of the French and English lines pass only through the Strait of Magellan or around the horn, so we chose the Kosmos” line (German) which alone sends vessels regularly throngh Symth’s channel is between Hamburg and South America's western ports. Our par- ticular steamer—the newest and tof a fleet of fifteen—all rejoicing under ‘ptian names, is called the “Osiris.” These neat little German te are remarkably long and slen- der, being built on the narrow-gauge plan, 80 to speak, for of the fiords. About twenty-five firstelase sengers just comforta- bly fill the tables sad all the cabins, and the only ladies on board are those of our own party. Though the diversity of languages spoken on board is almost as great as that which confused the builders of a close quarters for along and ney in the strangest corner of creation. are authors and artists and merchants and mine owners and curio hunters from Germany, France, Russia, England, Denmark, Peru, Chile, Brazil, Argentine, Cuba, Spain, but the United States is ouly represented by our unassuming selves. CHILEAN HATRED OF AMERICANS. Indeed, it would appear nowadays as if the nephews and nieces of Uncle Samuel have no business down this way, and there are those to the manner born and to the manner adopted who sre not backward about expressing themselves to that effect. Having to wait some days in Valparaiso for the steamer’s departure, we had numberless opportunities for observing how greatly public sentiment against Americans has increased in bitterness within the last few weeks. And yet there is not a Chilean among them who could give any refison for the hate that is within him. Americans have never done any harm here, if we except a few mongrel Ameri- can-Chilean politicians who were head and front Of the Iate revolution and are just now in high favor. Jealousy is the moving cause of Chilean hatrea—an ‘evil passion, cruel as the grave, which is being industriously fostered agninst the United States by certain English capitalists, who have long been making too good & thing out of Chile to wish to spare any of its commerce. Englishmen have fad things all their own way hero so long that they have come to consider the undivided loaves and ‘Yishes theirs by right The recont pan-American congress startled them out of their fancied se- curity and led them to realize that Americans must somehow be held at bay, or their days of monopoly are over. Among such combustible material as the Chilean masees it requires but the tiniest spark to create a conflagration, and it sometimes happons that a fire, once statted leaps beyond the control of those who ignited it. The time is likely to come, in the near fu- ture, when t® United States jovernment, for the ‘maintenance of its own dignity and’ tho protection of its wandering sons, will be com- pelled to teach these conceited Chileans a wholesome lesson. APOSTATE AMERICANS. And what shall wo say of those Americans who call themselves citizens of Chile and are now figuring prominently in the politics of that country? Asarule they are the worst enc- mies to their own countrymen that can be found in this misnamed republic. By the way, why is it, I wonder, that some of you at home persist in calling these apostato Americans by names that never belonged 40 them iby, for example, should that en jew Eng- lander, Mr. Hichard Trumbull, be dubbed Ricardo in his own country, or thoso Pennsyl- vania-born Montts, Peter and George, be called Fedroand Jorge by their old neighbors, or lain Edward and Julius be transformed’ by ¢ into Eduardo aud Julio? No ambitious schemes in Chile, but we Americans have no reason to rechristen them. Fansiz B. Wamp. —_——+e- —__ ORCHID CULTURE, Reappearance of an Old Variety—Titled Orchid Growers in Earope. Tho orchid growers of Europe, and they now include kings, princes, dukes and rich men of all dogrees, are much excited by the reap- pearance of a variety of orcbid known as the Catleya Labiate. A good many years ago this rare variety is said to have been brought from some necret place and jealously guarded by the few persons who had it. Lately an. Eng- lishman, traveling in Brazil, found it and brought it to France. Early this month a largo stock of these rare flowers was sold in Paris and was eagerly honght at high prices. A similar sale in England = few days before t $9,000 About fifteen years ago orthids first began to attract the attention of people with the proper bent of mind to make orchi. growing a passion. Now travolers are searching all tropical coun- tries for new kinds and the trade in them amounts to hundreds of thousands of dollars yearly. In France it is not uncommon for a plant to sell for $1,000, and sometimes « rare variety has brought 6,000. In France and England catalogues, illustrated in colors and or ‘expensively adorned, aro frequently collectors of orchids in the Trevor Lawrence and Mr. On the continent the great collec- tors are the Count of German; iy, Barons Al- fe Pons, Gusta Adolphe and ‘Edmund de | been thechild, the Due de Massa, The two world are ir 1 Measures. M. Mantin and ugae. Some of these gentlemen de- vote themselves to extending the cultivation of i en i { ry z if il Hi i 2 | i t if i i i i First there comes the road which leads off inder“the trees to Gen. Spinola’s handsome place, whose great brick barn peers over little hill far back from the main highway. Next to this are some still more beautiful fields, lying more open to the view of the sound. There isa great pond, and in the field of which it is the center a number of great black horses with gracefully flowing manes and tails roam free, and look as though harness. or halter had never held them. Next to this field iss long avenue of locusts, and adjoining this, on the other side, another pond in another field inhabited by Jersey cattle. One sees @long row of smali and not at all Attractive farm buildings at the end of the avenue. This row ends in a farm house. which is suspected rather than seen, for a group of ax | bushes and trees shuts it off from observers on the highway. This farm house is more attractive than the other farm buildings, not becauso it is anyJess dilapidated, but because of the curious way in which it has been built. One may plainly see that it was at first a small story and a half affair, unsightly, cheap, hastily built for the Accommodation of a poor farmer. And, if one did not know the truth, the size of the building would be attributed to increase in the farmer's famil looking wing was first added to one side, then another wing, which in some way fails to har- monize with ‘the first addition to the original house, was added on the other side. In front was built # porch, wide, ugly and not inviting, although from it s wide range of the rolling fields and orchards and woods may be taken. Finally the house was increased by putting a little porch on the side facing the sound, and a kitchen and perhaps a dining room one story high. Looking at this house, at the array of 1ed flannel for male and female underwear blazing from wash lines in the front yard, at the general air of sloth in the gardens, one would say: “Here lives a farmer of moderate means who has hada large family which has ‘own up and left him. He is old, he is no jonger able to work much and his hired men do about as they please. THE TENANT. One conld hardly be wider of the mark than this. The tenant of the gray old house is not a farmer. He never had a family, if two nieses and a wife who died many yeara ago was ex- cepted. He is not the man to let thoee within reach of him do as they please. They all do exactly as he pleases, and, by the way, he pleases a good deal. is not only not’ of moderate means, but is rich; would be counted tich even in New York. This is the residen: of Thos. G. Hodgkins, onto a merchant of New York city, but now a hermit of Old Fields, near Setauket, I. I. ‘Thomas G. Hodgkins was born in England at least eighty-nino years ago. He had married and had reached his twenty-ninth year before he came to this country to try to make great the little sum of his worldly goods. He started at manufacturing candy ina small way, but Tras soon prospering far beyond his frst hopes is wife died when he was just beginning to be rich, and left him with no near relatives ex- ¢opt the two children of hie widowed sister, Mrs. Clark. When she died ho took the little girls, his nieces, and set about bringing them up as his own children. At the beginning of the civil war he had accumulated a great for- tune. He sold out his large candy manufactory in Greenwich street, invested the money in ways which have since most fiatteringly ap- proved hig judgment, and went down to Se- tauket to live. Although in many ways he got away from the traditions of that huinble class of English society from which he originally sprung, he, retained a distaste for luxury, whether in houses, furnishings, dress or society. Wealth gave him no desire to better his outward sur- roundings. It is said that his close attention to business, his habit of having his own way absolutely, and bis unfamiliarity with his fellow bein, made him continue to be lonely even when had leisure and would natar ly have sought and made friends. He began his new life at Setauke? by boarding with a farmer living on the edge of the village. He soon bought thi farm of 120 acres described above, made an ad- dition to the original farm house and moved in with the two little girls. They made no friends and had little to do with the village people. As the girls grew up they were educated, but as soon as Mr. Hodg- kins thought they had learning enough they returned to the lonely farm house. Finally the elder girl married, not with the entire approval of her uncle. When she found hersel? alone with a little child she did not return to the farm house, but took up her residence at Sa Harbor. The other niece, Emma, stayed wi her uncle. Asno men except the farm hands ever came about she had little temptation to marry, although she was attractive aside from her prospective fortune. : Sho devoted herself to her uncle, and as her girlhood passed far away she became as fond of loneliness ashe. Two years agoshe died, leaving her fortune of €70,000 to her sister or her niece, who had then grown up into a slender, not very strong girl, with a good deal of beauty of a delicate kind. THE HERMIT. Since ths death of Emma Clark the old man has lived alone, unless a farm hand and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Andres, who have a room in the house and look after the work of house and farm yard, be counted as company. No one goes to see him. He wants to seo no one. He has paid to a doctor of Port Jefferson acon- siderable sum tolook after him until death shall put him in the ground beside his niece. It is said that to this day he looks forward with composure, without any particular eager- ness, yot not mgthout a certain amount of sat- isfaction, which is said to be in no way d rawn from the consolations of religion. From what has been said it will beseen that ‘Thomas Hodgkins, a rich man, retiring in mid- dlo life from = most busy life, has literally retired from the world and has for nearly thirty years led » hermit life. Although this time has beon spent in comparative loneliness so far ag human society is concerned, it has m lonely in another way. This maker of sweets, of caramels and ‘and gumdrops became a bookworm. THE BENT OF HIS MIND was toward the getting of scientific knowledge. In these thirty years he has read nearly all that hasbeen written on scientific subjects and has retained and assimilated what he has read through the power of a mind of rare acute- ness.” Human beings have interested him but little. ‘Those few who havo been nearest to his recent gift of $200,000 to nian Institution for the increase of was anything more than pretty well to do. It bas been among mén who retire from intercourse with their fellow beings to become crossand marrow and ae The exact i £ i iF i & H & t i rill lif i Es i i i if iF f ANDRES, THE HERMIT'S MOUTHPIECE. In the few railroad journeys which he has been known to take other passengers in the car have noticed with a good deal of curiosity that he no sooner entered the car, even in the bitterest winter weather, than he raised his window enough to let the end of = tube pass i bang into the outside frechuoss. Then he would sit down, and, well muftied against a possible draught, hold the other end of the tube in his mouth. It is possible that in the earlier day Setauket knew the hermit of Old had expericnced his wit and shrewdness, this tube caused Setauket to doubt his sanity.’ But Setauket has long got used to the tube and all the other eccentricities. before steaming ness of Long Island railroad coaches in winter the tube will seem admirable to the point of | to genius. One of the rooms of the old farm house is sot aside as his study. It ie fall of books and littered with papers in a way that would tho most ardent house cleaner. In the cleanliness from the ordinary the coldest weather it las been his habit to stand, unmufiled and uncovered, on his front porch and practice with dumb bells. The result of thie passion ee and this persistent exercise is happily apparent the old man's face and figure’ Altacagh he eighty-nine years old, with silver white hair about his shoulders, his thin, smooth and well- featured face is that of aman at least twenty years younger. slight and not tall form is not bent, but retains the straightness of = oung man’s form and nyuch of its elasticity. Tics, ton, byccnn, aadaionh ince he will soon ‘ie’ because his body is rapidly failing, no sign of it is to be seen, and his mind is of no more peculiar quality than in his earlier days at Setauket. It is said that he is going to adda large sum to his gift to the Smithsonian Institution. He has already completed arrangements for the building of a handsome library in Setadket as @ memorial to his dead niece. At present be refuses to see any company except his doctor, and his business manager communicates with him by note. His door is carefully, almost fiercely, guarded by the wife of Andres, his English farmkeeper. Andres himself, who is i in ahumble way, is an coad- ued wife. So Se- ay from the farm and takes its revenge by gostiping, not ill-naturedly, it should be said. —— se oeannioes ‘The Shadow of Free Silver Coinage. From the North American Review. Our excessive silver coinage is the one dark, ominous shadow which projects iteelf over the Tam one of the irrepressible American girls who will persist in “bobbing” up in unexpected Places, and I have perched myself by the nile of @ writing desk to tell you all about the cel- ebrated Julien school, of which I am « pupil. Well, it is located in the Rue de Beni (this par- ticular one is, but Julien has four others in Champs Eiysee, in the fashionable quarter. We enter through « large door, then up a wind- ‘ing stair—in fact it is 90 elevated that one could the sky light out upon the roof. We were Ushered into a little square office which looks down from both sides age ury, Lefebvre and Benjamin Constant, allof whom are celebrated artists, are the ‘professors at the different Julien MUST 00 RARLY OF MOEDAT. We must go to the classearly Monday morning to get a good pliace—that is, to obtain the best receive his criticism. He is notice defects; has only to glance pupil’ drawing to be able to tell whether she likes her Work and how long a time she has been at it: hether she will make an artist or is only play- r b young has an ides that she will make a chef.d'a@avre during the week, but somehow it never comes. Perhaps it’s because the model wiggles. The model has a way of letting an arm or leg fall slightly out of the mark when the chef d'cuvre is just on the point of coming. We, however, work with a will: French, American and Spanish, English and te atte: t @ map or woman, as the m may be, and nota wooden doll or ® bag of oes, as their drawing would imply. itis ‘Astonishing to find how a little line moved one- eighth of an inch to one side or the other will distort the figure to such an extent that it will be only « caricature. WAITING FOR THE PROFESSOR. ‘We heard a quick step outside, and at the eame instant the door opened and in walked the nicest little stout man, just like Santa Clans. His eyes soomed to sparkle with fan. His bair was }, but oJ ite to nervous man Thad plctored > ey Anyway, that is the way a ticular friend of mine felt when her drawing was FLEURY AND BIS CRITICISMS. And Robert Fleury, the other professor—he is regal looking and about ten years younger than Bouguereau. Iam afraid the girls are in- clined to admire him overmuch. He is « of country, plainly indicating disaster. If thie danger could be eliminated by the common sense of the people operating upon Congress, there is no question that an era of permanent prosperity would open before the nation. The wise remarks of the President at Albany indicate that there is no prospect of free silver e during the ut administrati but introduction of free coinage of silver is not the only thing necessary to cause the withdrawal of gold as « circulating medium. The monthly purchase of 4,500,000 ounces of silver bullion, with its attendant issue of treasury notes, will, in my opinion, inevitably produce this result. It is highly probable that gold would have sold ‘ata premium before Christmas of this year had it not been for our large crops and the uni- yersally short crops of cereale tn Europe. * * © If the question is asked, “When will under the existing state mence whenever the time arrives that import- ers and foreign bankers believe that it is prob- able in the near future that a check drawn upon @ bank in New York will not be received in payment of a bill of exchange on in mm London. All prudent men enga trade will then convert as # ‘as possil their deposits into gold, and the catastrophe of 4 premium on gold will be at hand. The banks and bankers of Europe have, before this impending danger, been willing toleave liberal cash balances in the hands of their agents in this country because of the higher rates for money usually prevailing here. Of course the probability of a premium ow gold would cause all floating capital of this kind to be withdrawa unless promises to pay in gold, with all the attendant risks, were entered into on the part of American dealers in foreign exchange. TS ay 4n American Consul Who Likes Robbers, From the New York Tribune. “Let me tell you a good story of Yankee pluck,” said a prominent business man ts a re- porter recently. “It is about my friend James Springer, acting American consul at a well-known Cuban seaport town. A dispatch came to me yesterday saying that Mr. Springer had been visiting his brother, the American vice consul general at Havana, and that the other night, on going out for walk, he anid ‘Joe, I like the looks of that stiek of ou don’t mind I'll take it along pad that evening, as the consul was secon: howling with fear and pain. had many adventares of = Cuba. A few weeks ago he was a sort of Victoria through Cuban town, when his hired in his seat, presented a cocked manded his “fare’s’ money. Mr. ly was a wi or earth except this ‘spot upon which she stands. 1 ood he smiles and says, bert Fleury. Ho hands. “Mon Dicu! qui a fait heaven's name, who did that?) A mech miss came tripping up to re- tion that “jamais was rawing at the academy until she was sure she had her man standing on his feet and not 8 in the middie of the can- vas, contrary to all the laws of gravity. And #0 we work and plod at the Julien school; sometimes we make g: hasn't done, For books he hasn't written, er fer Mghts he hasn't ‘On; ‘The waters may look placid on the surface all be undertow of et there may e-keepin’ of him Since the days of Eve and Adam, when the fight of Tealm't been safe, my brethren, for to lightly judge He may be tryin’ faithful fer to make nis life And yet his Yel nis lege git tangled in the treach’rous un- Homey not lack in Jearnin’ an’ he may not want He may be always workin’ with the patientest of exbe unrewarded, an’, my friends, how can ‘What heiguta he might a-climbed up to but for the ‘ou've heard the Yankee story of the hen’s nest a An’ how the hen Kep’ layin’ eggs with all her might Yet never settin’, single Itrow ren far i 9 Aid ‘There's holes in lots of a Rens’ nests, an’ you've got Outlook for American Arts, ‘From the Century. Within the past few Years also there has “i! d hi a i te sf Lt I yas HH it i ii if } 8 F & . f i i i ; EF | i 5 i af ! H! i te SOUTHERN WOMANHOOD. How Tt Was Affected by the War of the Re: bdeltion. From the Century The fact that so large « proportion of the young Women now attending southern colleges are securing an education not for ornament but for ase, not for social culture merely bus in preparation for setf-support, has had the very nataral effect of making them more ears. ext and diligent in the prosecution of their studies, Amuch larger proportion of college girls comes now from the muddle and poorer classes than formerly. Many of the poor giri of the south today are the daughters of edi cated parents whose property was awept away during the war, their culture sarviving the low of home and property. And what will an edus cated and refined mother “not do, what aacri fice will she not make, in order that her daugher may have the benefits of an education? If poor she will practice the most ngid econ omy and mbmit to the severest personal self= denial if thereby het danghter is ¢ to give thew And th noble instances in which an elder daughter, ving been thnseducated through the labor and economy of her parents, bas generously Fequited their loving self-denial in ber bebalf by going to work herself and helping cach of her younger sisters to obtain the education which their parents were anxious but unable t ive the: It is Victor Hugo who has called this “the century of woman.” I@ is certainly an age that has witnessed great changes fw the lif education and labor of women cxerywhore, and these changes have ail been in the direction of enlarging the sphere of woman's activities, increasing her liberties and opening up poss bilities to her life hitherto restricted to mam, It is @ movement limited to no land and to me race. So far as this movement may have any tendency to take woman out of ber true in the home, to give her man’s work to do and todevelop masculine qualities in her, it finds no sympathy in the sonth. The southers woman loves the retirement of home and shrinks from everything that would tend-te bring her into the public gaze. The higher education of woman, which has beon #o widel discussed of late years, and to encourage ana Promote which such noble schools for womam as Wellesiey, Vassar, Smith and Bryn Mawr have been founded, and so many great male Universities in the north and in England thrown open to them, is duly nized and felt among the young women of the south. This widespread aspiration of south ern young women for broader culture finds expression in the eagerness with which they are seeking admission into the best of the higher institutions provided for males, an@ this not because cocducation finds favor im outh—for it ia, perhaps, less encou: here than in any other part of the United States, though the prejudice against it is weak ening ¢omewhat- but only because there is me higher institution of learning for women Prorides for them the extensive fscilities amd ‘oad culture furnished by at least a few in stitutions for young men. Many feel that the greatest educational need of the south * of an institution that will provide for women as thorough an education and ae aculture as is provided for young men at the University of Virginia, the Vanderbilt or the Johns Hopkins—an institution that will not be in competition with any existing female eol- lege in the south, but will hold itself above them all by establishing and rigidly maintain ing high conditions of entrance us well as of graduation, and whose pride will be the high quality of the work it does, not the namber of POpils it enrolls, though numbers would alse come in due course of time. The active earnest, vigorous young womanhood of the south is demanding «uch an institution. Su: @demand so just.and a need #0, widely ond seriously felt cannot go long unmet. Where ie the philanthropist. —— +00 BIS HATED RIVAL, ABashfol Young Man Who Acted Well te Spite of Himecif. From the Chicago Inter-Ocean. ‘The season of amateur theatricals has already arrived. A very select and private club de lighted their friends with a performance om Friday night. A well-known young lawyer, who officiated as stage manager, told the following very ludic= rous story of the affair to a reporter for the Inter-Ocean: “I sent ona young medical student in the character of a lover, who had to make & declaration, be accepted, be surprised by & rival, ghallenge him on the spot, de- clare that he would not stir until this green sward was #:ained with the blood of one if not of both, order parenthetically pistols for two at once and coffee for one in ten minute, and, im fact, go through the greatest amount bast compressible into a short time. Of course the love making was to be of the most bigh-flown character. **On’ he went, and at the sight of the andi: ence and the lady seated at her work table subsided immediately into the very abyss of fear. Instead of rushing frantically toward the jecbly in hie jot one word could be say. but in dead six lence crept across the «tage, slowly took up © chair, offered to sit down, looked behind him to make sure if the chair was really in ite lace, eat down on the extreme edge of it, on the ground, rubbed his knees slowly and now and then glanced up at his intended bride much as a dog looks up when it has stolen something and knows it is going to be mdience were in ecstacies. They all thought it was pure acting and that the was that of a bashful lover. Certainly, any one id make his for He had been in possession of the stage some seven or cight minutes without speaking &word, when he opened his mouth once oF twice, rubbed his knees again and et length said in a broken and husky voice: ‘How's your mother?’ = yyy langhter burst from the audience and gave the opportunity for getti him off the The rival rushed forward, pounced on him, hauled him off by the collar, jung himeelf on bis knees, did all the rhapsody himself, and we had to patch up the scene ae best we could. Although *o complete a failure on the part of the individual, the scone was the best of the evening. new banged ‘twisting his bat ‘Opening Letters by Law. From the New York Herald. “I noticed @ short time ago,” said a Wash- ington official, “that some objection was made by a Mr. Pell of the Sun Domingo Shore Line Toad to the opening of a private letter by the chief of the secret service bureau. It isnot generally known that the rules of the Post Offiee t empower inspectors to open sus Picious letters at discretion. The public ap- Peat to be very much astonished af this pro- ceeding mentioned, but I assure you that it iw carried to agreater extent than even thove who know all about it suppose. In fact, under the rules of the Port Oftice Department, almost any private letter can be opened and read. This ‘will surprise some people, I presume, but it ie nevertheless true, an ference to the ite instructions to post office inspectors. are in printed form, will convinee anybody of Wi such secret are ever By ~fT ng T | out. It isa good deal like arresting a man op cuspicion, As a matter of fact, see the States ted sacred than the mailsin Russia or any other ——— et cate eae A Breach of Etiquette, From Once s Week.