Evening Star Newspaper, September 5, 1891, Page 9

EARLY FALL FASHIONS Pretty and Effective Costumes for the Brief Half Season. STREET AND INDOOR GOWNS. The Civilizing Effect of Dress—Obstacles to | Dress Keform—Effective Hat Trimmings— | For Morning Wear—A Stylish Afternoon | Costume—Various Kinds of Wraps. Bpectal Correspondence of The Fvening Star. New Youk, Sept. 4, 1991 VERY NOW AND then the voice of the so-called dress reformer is heard im the d,and it is not so pleasant a as the voice of the edove. It is high pitched, strident and a bit nasal, and is always accompanied by more or less gesticulation and # certain warmth of mauner. For the life of me I never could un- derstand exactly what the dress reformer wants us todo. Idon’t think she knows herself, but this much I do in persuading her ant han they do now. The is admitted by all deep the basis of self g that love of dress of @ person's vanity, yet vani a thing as some of these » i have us e, for vices are always compatible with genuine ike maiden of sixty mas f brocade with garniture one the less display hiteness and stately her ¥ grace of her cap strikingly novel to ng the brief half season the end of the sum- { winter, but still there © justify the name of ular will there be at- interior cos- chilly to mind of the rts to in make record « which ii mer anc will b fall £ ti i inner parties afe not p 1 the return to town, = f cottages begin to give nd as it is often doors and win- charm of pure air h to arties ha the { green lawn. DINNER GOWNS for these early events should be im light ’ thin textures. A straw-colored e makes up elegantly when tooned around the flat bows of velvet. will be very popular, lace garniture. Sleeves pelerines placed one upon the other, the two upper being of the sume woolen material as the gown and the under one of velvet. The two upper ones are edged with velvet and there are velvet cuffs to the gown. During early autumn light-colored gloves will continue to be affected. color at country clubs and country seats, while in town lilac and pale gray suede will be the favorites. The glove which is much worn with walking costumes is the peau de Saxe, natural color, four large flat buttons. A STYLISH AFTERNOON CosTUME. I saw a very stylish afternoon costume made up for one of our leading ladies of fashion the other day. It consisted of a cream-colored cloth skirt set off at the bottom with seven rows of plum-colored velvet and a long coat, smoking jacket etyle, of plum-colored velvet, lined with cream silk, opening on a chemisette of surah belted in a ceinture of plum-colored velvet. It was an altogether delightful little out-door costume and it attracted much atten- tion. Another promenade toilet was made up in woolen stuff of peau de suede color; skirt made very plain without any folds and only ‘one seam; corsage very snug fitting, buttoned on Leth ‘sides and opening on a shirt man- fashion of white Latiste striped with blue turn- down collar and man's tie-vest of peaude suede. TOILETS FOR SUPPLEMENTAL SEASON. ‘The two costumes pictured in my last illus- tration are types of early autumn styles, such as are met with at the exclusive and refined country resorts which are nowadays filled with guests during Septemberand October, for the tendency seems to be to keep away from large cities until all chance of striking a hot wave has been removed. The white cloth gown on the right is most charmingly set off by a yoke andadeep band of pale blue sill striped with white, while the bottom of the skirt and the corrage are finished with deep yolants of pleated white gauze. A very stylish black velvet hat of an original shape and trimmed with autumn flowers and black gloves complete this exquisite costume. ‘The garment worn by the lady on the left is made up in old red silk, richly trimmed with black lace, and is intended to be worn over a thin house gown when driving. flowers, add to the air of retinement and dis- tinction which characterize this garment. WRAPS OF VARIOUS KINDS. With the coming of the fresh breezes of autumn there arises a necessity for all kinds of wraps, mantelets and long cloaks for driving, walking or attending out-door games or sports of any kind. Old red cloth is much affected for long cloaks, made with a capuchon large TRNOUNG OF LACE AND AUTUMN FOLIAGE. elbow, with lace trimming deep and full. Bro- i'silks, too. will be much affected, made up with an xpron of lace consisting of three flounces. The cut oat of the corsage must be atural flowers in the t are absolutely necessary, | nize with the tone of with a dull pink use pinks: with a delicate shade of green, tea roses. us are charmingly decorative oatumes, and they possess the signal virtue of being non-odorous, a very | t de catum for the dinner party. All lace must be white, that’s understood, and dinner AY-ELUE PEKIN SILK. In my initial illustration I set before you one of these charmingly delicate dinner gowns, It . gray-blue on a white ground, ade up over a white taffeta foundation cess form, having a white and gray-blue The sleeves are covered with white netting. and there is also a plastron of the with a feather collar having a long bow seta little to the side. The wage is made in the crossed style, the right side of which is brought down and fastened Wader s passementerie ornament of pearls eT TRIMED MAT. ‘The coming of autumn makes itself known first of all by changes in head gear. This is very natural, for it is easy to follow the whims | ture by making use of the seasonable rs for bat decoration. In my second | ti a will very pretty hat inlace | w richly trimmed with ribbon and mson | age with velvet strings, while my m sets forth amore dij fi. bit of head gear in Italian straw, trimme two rows 0 @ jet nail heads and wings of | Jet At the back there isa bow of black lace set on the turni iup brim. The shape of both | | was advised to al | no horse would be equal to it enough to protect the hat if necessary. This should be lined with silk color of wet sand. Adove-colored cloth pelisse is very stylish, lined with heavy Scotch silk and fastened with oldsilver clasps. The Henri II shoulder cape is made up in green cloth, richly embroidered, one tone on the other. FOR CARRIAGE RIDING a sleeveless mantle of gray cashmere, cov-| ering the entire dress and embroidered all around with pearls and silk will be very popular. Another of the same kind may be made up in pearl gray silk, redingote style, with a yoke of white lace laid on the silk, | and a large jabot of lace, very bouffant sleeves with lace at the cuffs. A eapuchon of lace may be worn with this garment. For the verand: especially for a moonlight promenade or con- stitutional, as the young folks term it, a wraj may be made up in white cloth, very soft and pliant and lined with pale pink crepe de chine embroidered with bright flowers, fitted with a capuchon of crepe de chine, very gossamer-like, so as not to rumple the hair and tied under the chin like a bonnet. IN THE MOUNTAINS to wear when you get up to go out on the porch to see the sun rise you need something thick and warm. For such along cloak take a heavy cloth, old red, and line it with surah of | the same tone. A thick ruche of the surah serves for the collar of this garment, and the sleeves are fashioned after the style of the nun’s garb. You may slip this garment right over your robe de chambre or morning wrapper. Or, if you want something very stylish, make up a | a long wrap in Chantilly over black surah wit watteau fold at the back, and trim it with passementerie lace, mixed witha gold thread. pects Toes ones ale DRIVING A THOUSAND MILES. An Englishman Covers the Distance With One Horse. Letter to London Times. It is needless for me to compare the average swiftness or strength of a horse as against that of a man, as it is a well-established fact that for strength and speed combined the horse has no rival. But it is quite another thing when we consider the latent staying power or physical endurance of # horse over that of a man. was supposed to have been proved conclusively in favor of man by the remarkable walking achievement performed a few years ago by Wi walked 3,000 miles in so many consecutive days—barring Sundays—covering, partly upon & prepared track, fifty miles in each day. It was said at the time that it would require two well-bred horses to successfully compete with Weston. In past and present times for speed we have remarkable examples upon record, and among these I may mention that of Thornhill, an inn- keeper from Stilton, Huntingdonshire, who rode, with a relay of horses, 213 miles in twelve hours and seventeen minutes. In 1750 the Earl of March drove a team of four horses nineteen miles in one hour. There was in this case a specially prepared carriage and harness, and these were so light that it is said that one man could carry them. A few months ago Lord Lonsdale gave us a splendid exhibition of all kinds of driving, both as regards speed, style and good order, having his horse under perfect coutrol. Having a wish to test as far as practicable the endurance of a well-bred horse on Monday July 6, we started upon a thousand-mile drive, dog cart, passengers and luggage being regis- tered over 800 weight. Beforehand I consulted an authority as to the possibility of our cover- ing 500 miles at an average of fifty miles a day or 1,000 miles, averaging about forty-four miles a day except Sunday, and was told that the shadow of disappointment was waiting me aud nidon the, proposed drive, as it. The result, ho ever, has given a contradiction to this and hs Of these bats is al and their material FOULARD FOR MORNING WEAR. Avery pretty morning dress in a figured foulard, with pleated corsage, yoke and volants in plsin material. is represented in my fourth illustration. Although simple in constraction and garniture, this little gown has « decided air of style and refinement about it. The hat as, under proper control and care, more en- durance than is supposed. We covered the 1,000 miles in nineteen days, fifty-two miles aday. The longest distance-- namels last day Drokeu the record of one-horse driving: We selected roads at random and they proved to be very hilly, covered with loose stones, generally unfavorable to the extent of half th Gistance covered; added to this seven day rain. Ihe route taken was somewhat as fol- lows: Loudon to York, Durham, Berwick-on- ‘Tweed, Edinburgh, Stirling. back’ to Glasgow, Carlisle, Kirby Tonadaie, arualey, Dradiord, Nottingham, Bedford, London. ‘The horse we was in good condition when we finished the journey, as the following certificate I hold proves: “July 25—I drove with Mr. Davies four Iniles, and consider his cob in good condition }and no worse forthe long journey he has done. Thad but one object, and that was to show what a valuable servant a horse is to man and mine. Your readers can see that an equal task would not be be carried and the same roads covered. She Reports Progress. From the New York Weekly. “How are you getting asked Alphonso of his best with the piano?” ved Matilda. is richly trimmed with ribbon and autumn flowers. COLLARS AND GLOVES. eso many broad collars made up of three moved away within a week after I practice. The next people stayed » mont next ten weeks, and the family there now remained nearly six months.” White of course will remain the fashionable A black feather boa and a} black lace hat, richly garnitured with autumn | ‘This | ton, who, as your readers may remember, | ie conclusively, 1 maintain, that a horse | sixty-eight miles—was covered in the | itinerant comerciante When the following circumstances | are taken into consideration { claim I have | drove is fifteen hands high and well bred, and worthy the care and kindness extended to rformed unless au equal weight “Oh, very well; I can see great progress in “Well, the family that lived next door to the ve AT THE PALANCO. What is to Be Seen in a Chilian Pleasure Garden. A KALEIDOSCOPIO SCENE. Citizens on Horseback and on Foot—The Street Vendors and Their Wares—Curious and Costly Trappings for Horses—Riding for Exercise in Birlochero. From The Star's Traveling Commissioner. Coxcerctox, Curr, August, 1891. ‘N THIS COUNTRY WHEN ONE DESIRES to take a ride he does not send around to the livery stable for a vehicle, but sallies forth on foot, carrying whatever paraphernalia the excursion may require, and walks until s bir- lochero comes along. These public carriages are much like the “hacks” in common use at hore, except that they are built in more sub- stantial fashion, for these roughly paved roads would soon shake an ordinary coach into kindling wood. Hail a passing birlochero and its rider will whirl his rawboned horses two or three times around in the narrow street, grazing the houses on either side, to the imminent peril of pedes- trians, for he considers that a deal of noise, flourish and whip cracking are necessary to do proper honor to the occasion. Having satisfied his conscience in that regard and brought his foaming steeds to a stand still you clamber in and are whisked away pell mell over the stones ata pace that may be truly termed a “spank- ing” one, for you are bounded against the top like a rubber ball and hurled into your neigh- bor's arms with force enough to'fracture thinly cushioned ribs, bonnets battered, hats knocked off, but you may be consoled by the reflection that you are riding for pleasure and that this heroic exercise is good for garlic-impaired di- estion. seTlercabouts the favorite after-dinner drive is to a suburban pleasure garden called the Palanco, which is much frequented by all classes of society. The place in itself bas no attractions, but there are few ways of varying the monotony of life in Chili, and the human species are like sheep the world over, you know, in following the lead of a bell wether. When first arrived in this part of the country e used careiully to explain to our coachman that we were strangers in the land and desired | to be shown the most beautiful and entertain- ing sights. We found the cocheros obliging fellows, always delighted with the mission and proud to exhibit home institutions; but un- unately their ideas of the beautiful differed iy from our own. ‘The first jehu drove us ight to the slaughter house, and throwing wide the door triumphantly invited us to enter and view the whole process of killing and dressing. Having declined the amusement, to his infinite surprise and disappointment,’ be drove next to the big hospital, where legs and arms are sawed galore and where a vast array ef amputated sores and tumors and mon- strosities are set forth in glass bottles. Find- ing us still not agreeably diverted even by this gruesome display, which possesses extraordi- nary fascination’ for the low Chileno, he spent the remainder of the afternoon driving sulkily up and down the same streets, evidently ruminating upon the stupidity of Gringoes. Another cochero, delegated with the seme mission, made a bee-line to the alms house; another carried us at once to the penitentiary and another to the poor little cemetery. At last we learned that Concepcion has no “sights,” even her churches beirg too new to be inter- esting, and now on our afternoon drives we give the unvarying order, “Vaya al Palanco”— zo to the pleasure garden. One is sure to en- counter many novelties en route and the streets area lively panorama, slow moving but kaleido- scopic, of unfailing interest to the foreigner. IN THE PALANC For example, thero is # gray-beawded, digni- fied Guaso, mounted ona fine horse, with his fat wife Lehind him. He is topped by a broad- brimmed hat, the rest of his person enveloped in brighi-hued poncho or native blanket, with aslit in the center through which he thrusts his head, while she wears a purple cot- ton gown, a scarlet shawl and a man's hat of Panama straw. The horse's bridle is plated with silver, and on the saddle are piled five or tix shaggy pillones or woolen cloths, which almost cover his thighs. The rowels’ of the Guaso’s spurs are, without exaggeration, large as ordinary tea plates, from six to eight inches zeross, and often heavily plated with silver. His stirrups are made from a block of oak, elaborately carved and hollowed inside—say | ten inches high by nine inches in diameter for amoderate size, each weighing four or five pounds—forming a complete protection for the feet when pa through mud, mountain bushes and rocky ‘At one side of the saddle is fastened a coiled lasso made of twisted hide about as thick your thumb, fifty or sixty fect long. with a slip noose at the end. ‘The Guaso is never without his lasso, and the skill with which he can use itis amazing. If he wishes to capture an animal that may be running off at full speed he takes the coil in his right hand, urges his horse to a mad gallop, and whirling’ the lasso to give it momentum, hurls its loop with un- erring aim around thé neck, horns or legs of the animal with as much ease and accuracy as a skilled base ball player sends his bail.” ‘The horse is so trained that the instant the lasso leaves his rider's hands he stops and braces himself to bear the strain of the struggling animal. Chilians of the Guaso class are’ bred to this exercise from infancy, and every rag- | amuitin urebin old enough to toddle is forever practicing his art on poultry, dogs, cats and Other small animals that come in_his way, with the same diabolical persistence that the gamin of Peru and Bolivia shy stones out of strings at passers-by, and Patagonian boys, a degree less ized, shoot their bone-tipped arrows. Hur- ing on toward the Palanco we meet and pass other birlochos, ail filled with chattering and smiling Chihans, drunken sailors, come over from the port’ of Talcahuano to “paint the town,” galloping the streets at break-neck speed, knowing little about horsemanship and caring less, and peous, seated on the rear end of little donkeys, carrying before them huge panniers of fruits and vegetables. Every sweet corner is occupied bya ragged exile from sunuy Italy with hand organ and monkey grinding out music to the delighted populace. ‘These troubadouring nuisances are more fortu- nate here than in the far north, for in Chili they are never routed by the police, but are actually paid by the authoritics. THE CANDLE SELLER. Here comes a peon with a long pole over his shoulder, from which dangle bunches of tallow candles, while he sings in a musical voice with many variations of inflection, “Velos de scbo” (tallow candles) “aqui son velos de sebo:” “velos de-se-boo.” Behind him comes another bare-footed citizen carrying an armful of country brooms, each being merely a bundie broom corn tied around the end of a rough <. We pass no end of merchants, male female, seated on the ground with broad, low baskets before them containing cakes and dulces for sale or charcoal pots over which garlic-seasoned tomales are sizzing in grease. Others have gay feather dusters made from the umage of Patagonian ostriches, and the stock in trade of one or two are elegant robes of aco skins, a fine, soft fur of mingled color, buff and’ white, brought from | down toward the Straits of Magellan and here Bao ver | Need for foot rugs iu winter time. Now and averaging over see erence. | then one isso fortunate as to encounter an with some of those splendid robes made of the breasts of ostriches covered with gray and white feathers from four to six inches long, which are prepared by the Pategonian Indians. I have succeeded in capturing a beauty about three yards square, which was originally intended to be worn as a dress by the favorite wife of a Patagonian chief. These feathery skins wear as well as furs, and nothing can be so beatiful for sofa coverings, carriage robes or rugs. Arrived at the Polanco we find the Chilian cabulleros (gentlemen) out in fall force on their prancing nags, exhibiting horsemanshiy of which they have good reason to be prow In this country horses are seldom broken to harness, all the teaming and hauling bei done with oxen. ‘he gear of the Chili gentleman's saddle horse 1s a most curious and complicated affair. ‘The bit is along, heavy, flat piece of iron, which rests on the b tongue and presses against the roof of the mouth. At each end is ahole, through which is passed a long iron ring about four inches in diameter, which encircles the lower jaw. At each side of the mouth is placed another iron ring, to which the reins, are fastened. eS entire mouth rigging weighsabout five poun sud it suddenly: jerked is a powerful enough to break any animal's jaw. reins are made of finely braided hide or horse hair and are joined together when they reach the pommel ‘of the saddle, termina’ in a long lash called a chicote, at the end of which is « smali of lead, usually hidden ina handsome aka wehrn hecgees down of iorse, often on the ground. Its load of lead is us heay: enough to fornish a wenpon of defense and offense as formidable asaslung shot and the poor horse is beaten unmercifully with it. ‘STAR: WASHINGTON. D.C. UD eae ee Eee urknown. When their day’slabor is done they a Ae : = thousands of them die from over work and starvation. COSTLY SADDLES AND BRIDLES. I have seen a number of fancy bits made of | solid silver and bridles plated with gold, with reins made of golden wire. Senora Cousino, the wealthiest widow in South has one that is eid to have cost $2,500. costing $1,000 or more, are common in Santiago. ‘The Chilian saddle is even more a and complicated thau the bridle. ‘iret, half a dozen sheep skins are piled, one ove another, on the horse's back; a leather strap is passed'around them and firmly secured. ‘Then comes a sort of skeleton saddle, or rather @ piece of wood cut into the shape of a saddle tree, with a cautle at each end; on top of this is piled any number of sheep ‘skits, or, if the owner is rich enough, rare and costly furs far- nish the seat, which is called a montura. The four corners are fastened down by broad bands of canvas or lentner. | Some wealthy eques- , Tike those ¢ Mexicans, which is covered with silver 4 stamped on top withthe owner's coat of arms. In Chili it is distinctly understood that the amount of silver on a man’s riding outfit indi- cates his station in life, and naturally there is a good deal of competition in that direction among the swell caballeros. While the poor man's stirrup isa rude affair, hewed by hand out of a block of wood, as above described, his aristocratic neighbor uses one quite as heavy, but much more ornamental, made of brass or triang have a high-pommelled sad ot silver, usually in the shape of a slipper. Those designed for ladies are often made of solid sil- ver, beautifully chased, and are a favorite gift. English manufacturers are able to produce these equestrian adornments so much cheaper than the native workmen, who have no labor- saving machines, thst nearly all are now im- ported. When the rider is seated in the saddle his legs are entirely concealed by the furs and sheep skins. If going ona journey he wears on his back a poncho, which bears no closer resemblance to that of the guaso than does the rest of Lis outfit. It is about the size of the rubber blankets used in the United States, and is woven of vicuna hair, or lamb’s wool, which keops the wearer cool by day, for the suns rays cannot penetrate it, and warm by night. It answers as well for an umbrella as for an over- coat, and sheds the rain better than rubber, because the oil has not beenextracted from the wool. The vicuna (the Andean goat) is yearly becoming more scarce, and nowadays ® good oncho made of its hair is rare as a camel's hair shawl, which it somewhat resembles, and is worth from $150 to $500. ‘Thus you see that a fully equipped saddle horse for a Chilian caballero, with silver spurs, vicuna poncho, gold or silver mounted saddle and bridle, &e., represents an investment of $5,000 or more. It is considered the height of vulgarity among the aristocrats to use common English saddlery and new ponchos, for in their families those almost indestructible articles have been handed down from generation to generation, growing more valuable with age and usage. THE LOCAL POLICE. Returning to the city in the twilight we no- tice that each squatting street merchant has lighted a tiny lantern and will doze over his wares till bedtime. The police are being de- tuiled to their different bents for the night. They are divided into two forces—the vigilantes, who preserve order during the day, and the serenos, who watch by night. Some are mounted, and all are armed with sabres and uniformed in coarse blue cloth. At daylight the vigilantes march to their beats, and are au- thorized to arrest any one who violates the put- lie peace or decency and to see that the streets are kept clean and orderly. In street encoun- ters with the drunken and turbulent they use their sabres with intent to hurt; but in regard to decency and cleanliness they are not the most efficient censors, being ignorant of what those qualities really are. One vigilante is usually placed at the intersection of every two streets, and at twilight the serenos march to their relief. On no account is a sereno allowed to leave his beat untila comrade has responded to his whistle. A house holder may send him in great- eat lnsto to call a priest or a phrsicinn, Dut if either reside outside his particular district he must pass the message along through his next comrade. A part of his duty is to examine the street doors of the houses, and if they are not properly secured to notify the residents. Aftor 10 o'clock he cries the hours throughout the night in a prolonged, sing-song tone, and the presence of a belated person is announced by 4 shrill whistle, sounding from sereno to sereno, to put all on the alert. Near the garden we cross a deep, wide sewer, now nearly dr; but which is a raging torrent during part of the year. It is called an estero, and is Hanked on one side by rows of adobe pulpe- where ell the liquors of the coun- try, and despachoes, where all sorts of meats, fruits and vegetables are to be had. The side- walks are unpaved and all the doors stand wide open, disclosing dim and filthy interiors, whose floors of earth are always a little lower than the street. Unwashed, uncombed and vermin- infested buyers and ‘sellers are chafing to- gether, half-naked children roll around among pigs, dogs and chickens, and greasy-looking women are seated on the ground twanging guitars, "And, oh, the dogs, they are the pests of the city—of all kinds and colors, from the tiny Lucia poodle, a parlor pet which is washed and bryshed every morning, to the homeless mon- grels of mangy aspect and vicivus propensities. They prowl about the streets and sleep in door- ways, and hundreds that have no masters gather their food by night from the city offal. One day, to our horror, a donkey fell dead in front of our door. We wondered why the authorities did not immediately remove the carcass, but their negligence was explained when a horde of half perished dogs pounced upon it, and in a few hours no trace of the deceased animal remained. Fayyre B. Warp. —_—_—_+e+ —____ A Little Girl's Investment. From the Lewiston Journal. Not long ago a little Pine street girl asked her indulgent parent for 50 cents to get ‘“some- thing.” Ashe didn’t seem inclined to tell what the same was, the said parent quietly gave her the required sum and resumed reading his paper. The next day his daughter triumphantly burst into the room with, “Here it is, papa,” and there upon her shoulder was a tame rat, and she was stroking it as if it wereakitten. The gentleman said something about there being plenty of rats without paying 50 cents for them, but no marked objection was made toher keeping it. ‘The rodent now is acting as mis- jonary in the home of a little invalid boy, who watches from his bed of pain the rat's antics and finds the days less long. ————+oo ____ Prond of His “Family.” From the Illustrated American. A big boast that was; in fact, a verity greatly amused a party of strangers not long ago who wero stopping over in New Orleans for a few days. It seems the visitors were strolling through the southern town with a native, who took much pride in pointing out the numerous objects of interest and telling romantic stories of lovely creoles and gallant gentlemen long dead and gone. On one of the old streets where stately residences still stand, althovga Iashion bas drifted away, @ quaint house, elo- quent of shabby aristocracy, attracted the at- tention of one of the party.’ “No,” said the guide, “I'm sorry, but I really can’t say who lived ‘there. Tell us, uncle,” turning toa white-hoaded, decrepid darky creeping by in the @unshine, “whose place is that?” “Dunno, chile,” croaked the old man, “dunno and don’ keer. know, do, whose ‘twas. Hit b'longed ter my fam'ly fo’ der wah, what was der gran’- est white people what the sun ever shon on. Our daughters never ma’y wid nothin’ ‘cep’ Pres‘dents and Pres'dents’ sons. We is der Birangers, we is,” and with a respectful lift of his tattered hat the aged man hobbled away. Some one laughed at the senile vauntings of the ex-slave, butafter a moment's reflection the native said: “That old fellow is right. Why, they were the beautiful Diranger sisters and all he boasted of them is true. ‘The eldest of them was Jefferson Davie’ first wife, and the second married Gen. Dick Taylor, Zachary's A Wise Father. ‘From Texas siftings. Business Manager—“You are an applicant for the position of assistant cashier. Are you married?” ; Applicant—‘"No, I am a single man.” Business Manager—“That's awkward. You see the boss told me not to hire any unmarried Applicant Then to get the place I've got ere: scabplican it» You have to Sede anphe phd ‘ou Come sround:end taka with me and my daughter. I think this can be arranged.’ SATURDAY. “This is the third year of short wheat crops everywhere abroad,” said Mr. J. Richards Dodge, the most eminent authority on such matters in this country, to # Star reporter yee- terday. “Not only has the left-over surplus been exhausted, but what is called the ‘invisi- bie’ reserve supply in the farmers’ bins has been used up. The present wheat crop in this country is unusually big and it must be drawn upon largely by Europe—particularly England, which eats enormously more wheat than she produces. Hence the rise in price. “IN RUSSTA. “Russia is the rye-producing country of the world. The crop is very poor, and the czar has commanded that none of it shall be ex- ported. The Germans, who eat rye and not Mee are: alarmed. ‘The soldiers are grumbling te) ai of obliged food upon wheat bread forlack of rye breed this year. Incidentally the few millions of bushels of rye grown in the United States have ad- vanced in value, CUSTOMS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS. “It is very curious to observe how the differ- ent nations eat different grains. In the United States we feed largely upon corn, which in England is thought to be only good for horses. A very few years ago we ate no oats; at present we consume more oatmeal than does any other pe le. We don’t care much for rye, except for rie into whisky. and so our produc- tion of it is comparatively small. Germany and Russia eat rye, while all Western Europe feeds upon wheat. Go into » German beer sa- loon and it is always rye bread that you will find upon the bar. Chins and Japan choose rice for their grain. So doesIndia. Thelatter also is a large consumer of millets—grassy-look- ing cereal ts, which are only considered fit for forage in this country.” OnassEs. Speaking of grasses, wheat and rye are both grasses—there is much that is most interest- ing to be suid respecting them.’ Corn is a kind of grass, and so is oats, barley and rice like- wise. In fact, all the grains are grasses, modi fied somewhat and improved as to their sced- bearing by cultivation and crossing of stocks. The giant of all the grasses is the bamboo, single stems of which attain @ length of 170 feet and a diameter of a foot. So rapidly does this plant grow that it will attain a height of 100 feet in sixty days, certain ,species adding ten feet to thelr stature within twenty-four jours. IN THE SOUTHERN STATES grass from ten to fifteen feet tall forms im- penetrable thickets called canebrakes. Its leaves are so nutritious that cattle will live all winter in such jungles with no other food. ‘The woody stems are sold all over the country for fishing poles. A kind of grass grows in Brazil that affords living fountains of drink to the thirsty traveler. Its stems reach forty feet in height and six inches in thickness. When they are cut they gush with streams of cool water. ‘The Indians of the Upper Amazon in South America use a sort of grass native to those re- gions for blow pipes. ‘They cut lengths sixteen feet between two joints, and through these, hollowed out, they project with their breath arrows envenomed with the deadly “‘woorart” ison. In India certain aromatic grasses are culti- vated for their delicious fragrance. From one of these, called ‘lemon grass,” an essential oil for flavoring purposes is obtained. An extract from anothor is made the most important in- gr t of a cooling drink, and is valued as a mild stimulant, like ginger. POISONOUS GRASSES. There are some very poisonous grasses in the world. The plants are not so, but they acquire their deadly properties from certain fungi which attack them and invade their tissue. Cattle eat them and_perit Sometimes the seeds get mixed with grains and poison people. One such species has recently taken root in this country, and it may cause trouble yet. It came from Europe and is known as “lolium.” “Trembling grass” it it called, because it brings on a sort of palsy. VARIOUS KINDS OF GRASSES. ‘Two or three kinds of coarse marsh grass are used, particularly in Holland, to keep the soil from blowing or being washed away on the banks of streams or canals. Their roots form & complete network beneath the surface and hold theearth together. Sugar cane is a grass and so is sorghum. ‘There are about 8,200 spe- cies of grasses in the world, and of this num- ber the United States has'800 of all sorte— marsh grasses, desert grasses, &c. There is a curious forage grass in Brazil that is like very much magnified oats, growing to the height of twelve feet. From some grasses papor is made. The only genus of plants peculiar to the arctic is a rare and beautiful grass indigenous to Mel- ville Island. pe BAMBOO CULTIVATION. It is hoped by the Department of Agriculture that the bamboo may yet be cultivated in this country as it is in China, where it supplies large part of the wants of the people, being ap- plied to more than 500 different purposes. In the flowery kingdom it takes the place both of iron and steel. The farmer builds bis house and fences out of it, his farmihg utensils as well as his household furniture are manu- factured from it, while the tender shoots fur- ish him with a most delicious vegetable for his table. VARIED USES. ‘The roots are carved into fantastic images, shaped into divining blocks to guess the will of the gods or cyt into lantern handles and canes. ‘The tapering culms are used for the props of houses, the frame work of awnings, the ribs of sail sort of frames, coops and cages, and ribs of umbrellas and fans.’ ‘The leaves are sewed into rain coats and thatches. The shav- ings and curled threads furnish materials for stuffing pillows, while parts supply the bed for sleeping, the chopsticks for eating, the pipe for smoking, the broom for sweeping, the mat- treax to lie upon, the chair to sit ‘upon, the table to eat on, the food to eat and the fuel to cook it with. ‘The ferule to govern with, the book to study from, the reed pipe of the organ, the anaft of the soidier’s spear and the dreaded, instrument of the judge, the skewer to pin the hair and the hat to sereen the head, the paper to write on, the pencil to write with and the cup to put the pencil in, the rule to measure lengths, the cup to juantities and the bucket to draw water, the bird cage, the crab net, the fish pole, are one and all furnished by this plant, whose beauty when growing is com- mensurate to its usefulness when cut down. A score or two of bamboo poles for joists and rafters, fifty fathoms of rattan ropes and — supply of palm leaves and bamboo mats for a roof, supply material for a hut in China. His Teeth Blocked the Tunnel. From the Chicago Daily Tribune. Thero was another blockade at noon yester- day in the Washington street tunnel. As a Madison street grip car came eastward into the tunnel «well-dressed man with » plug hat sitting on the front seat was seized with a vio- lent fit of sneezing. With one extra effort he sneezed out his artificial teeth. They flew over the dashboard on to the track. He set ups howl and Gripman Benjamin brought the car to a standstill. “What's the matter?” called out Conductor the man. vel anc sot Get nal baled pectin iestuenees wwiber cars crowded in, but the teeth could not be found. The car’ moved slowly ahead and the next train of the Milwaukee avenue line pulled up. They were finally found under the Mil- waukee avenue car. The eye-tooth on the right side had been broken by the fall. As he ad- justed his teeth amid the laughter and profanity of the crowd he growled: “That's just my luck. I've been bearh wheat. I suppose if I'd shake my ears out by their roots.” Extremes and Average. From Judge. Mr. of Po ae GEMS FROM THE STARS. Diamonds Found in a Meteorite and the Won- dere They Siguity. F ALL THE CURIOSITIES WHICH THE wise men of the Association for the Ad- ‘vancement of Science brought to Washington for exhibition to their fellows the most extra- ordinary was meteorite with diamonds in it. Such a thing had never been seen or heard of before; in fact, it was the only specimen of the kind thus far discovered in the world. The diamonds were little ones, but what they signi- fied was big. The meteorite in question was one of many found recently in Arizona, near the Canon Diablo. It was supposed by the discoverers that they had hit upon an iron mine of enor- mous value, but investigation proved that the great chunks of metal picked up had been shot out of the realms of space. The place whence they were obtained is known as the crater, be- cause it looks like one, being a circular hollow 100 fet in depth, three-quarters of a mile wide and surrounded by a wall of rock so steep that the bottom is strewn with the skeletons of animals which have gotten in and been unable to climb out again. Nevertheless, it is not of volcanic origin, as is proved with certainty by the fact that there is no lava, obsidian—volcanic fisse—or other voleanio product in the neigh- orhood. WHAT WAS IT THEN THAT MADE THE CRATER? Geologists say that it was formed by the impact of @ single ggantic meteor, which at ‘some time in the past struck the earth and buried itself out of sight, leaving « hole which has since become iy filled up, surrounded by a wall of rock that was forced out of place. Imagine what a big one it must have becn to leave a cavity three-fourths of a mile in width where it hit this planet. The mass of iron of which it was composed is there yet, of course. Perhaps it was not sunk too to render mining for its material unprofitable. Frag- ments of it formed the masses that were picked up by the prospectors above referred to. Tt is worth mentioning, by the way, that according to the most newly accepted theory the so-called ” in the moon were formed by meteors in the same fashion. 4 SUBJECT FOR SPECULATION. The fragment which contained the diamonds above referred to has opened an absorbing sub- fect for speculation. It proves that there are diamonds in other worlds than ours; but also it points to many other important conclusions. The diamonds of the famous Kimberly mines, which at present produce almost the entire world’s supply of those gems, are all found at the bottoms of just such craters as the one de- scribed in Arizona. It is believed that these eraters, so called, were formed by the impact of great meteors, because there is no other con- ceivable way in which they could have been made, and for other reasons geological. If so, then it must be inferred that probably all the diamonds of the world were brought to this terrestrial sphero by meteorites. In other words, these precious jewels aro not native to the earth, but have been fetched hither with the dust of other stars. That accounts for the manner, hitherto deemed unaccountable, in which they are scattered everywhere through drift of all sorts, having apparently no birth- place or definite relation to other minerals. 18 THERE LIFE IN OTHER WORLDS? Some scientists go so far as to assert that diamonds, like coal, which is so nearly of the same chemical constitution, could not possibly come into existence without previous vegetable growths to generate their material. For this Teason they infer that the finding of the gems in the meteorite demonstrates that there must have been vegetable life, place whence the meteorite came. If there was vegotable life there it isa fair presump- tion that there was animal life also. All this may be untrue, but it affords the first guess glimpse that has ever been obtained into the greatest problem that mankind has ever at- tempted to handle, namely, the question whether life exists in other worlds than ours. From the philosophical point of view the fact cannot but be taken for granted in a universo in which the sun is merely an inferior star of the fourth magnitude. Nevertheless, some ab- solute evidence on the point would be ex- tremely satisfactory. WHAT METEORITES ARE. Meteorites ordinarily are nearly all iron, with asmall percentage of nickel. Nove of them has ever been known to contain a particle of any precious metal. Nevertheless, many of them are worth many times their weight in gold, because of some peculiarity of structure or otherwise. Every collector of minerals makes it a matter of pride to have a specimen of every known kind of meteorite in his cal net. If anew sort turns up and he has not a single piece ho is unhappy. It happens some- times that one weighing not more than apound, of a make-up that lias not been seen before, wi sell in bits for a couple of thousand dollars if its possessor knows how to dispose of it. Peo- ple are not less interested in other worlds, be- cause they know nothing about the next one. —_—_or_—_—. A ROMANCE OF THE KEY. Married His Friend at the Other End of the Wire After AlL From the San Francisco Chronicle. ‘Telegraph operators frequently make warm friends with each other with no means of com- munication than the insensate wire, and more | than once friendships thus made have lasted for years without either person having so much as had glimpse of the other's features. It is not often, howevér, that a courtship is carried on under such circumstances, but a pretty little romance comes from the desert which ad for its sequel the recent registration ata prominent hotel of “J. J. Stansbury and wife, Jackson Springs, Cal.” The story is repeated by the Los Angeles Herald in the words of the hero himself. “About a year anda half ago,” said he, “T was a railroad agent and telegraph a little station down on the desert side of Yuma. ‘The station consisted of nothing more than a big water tank,a shed for myself and another for a small crew of trackmen. There, for nearly a year, I put in the loneliest and the hottest time that I ever passed in my life. The thermometer had a way of monkeying around between 100° and 150° above zero on most days, and almost my only pleasure was found in ‘talking ovar the wires with the op- eratore at various stations along the line. “Thad never seen the operator at Banning at that time, but he was a cheerful, joliy sort of a fellow, and as the time also hung heavily upon his hands we passed many a pleasant Lour in conversation over the wires. We had sort of half arranged to get ® vacation together and there was a good deal of joyful anticipal tion — on my partat least—of the manner in which ‘wo should pase it. We were going into the mountains and spend two or three weeks in hunting, fishing, &c. All of our plans were agranged in those scorching and lonely days, and we usually agreed in our ideas of the prep arations, although there was occasionally a lit- tle difference of opinion. “I remember, for instance, that be said ho was going to take along a pair of rubber boots for trout fishing, whileI asked him, ‘What's the matter with your taking off your shocs and stockings and rolling up your pants? But he said that he preferred boots. As the time dfew near, bowever, he, for some reason that I could not understand, backed squarely out of the enterprise, much to my disgust. “Finally, he told me one day that he was ing to New Mexico to pass his vacation, and fre anticipated considerable pleasure in meet ing each other during the train's brief stop at my station. But I did not meet him at for when the train that bore him arrived was sick and unconscious, with a burning fe- Yer, the result of my long stay under the tor- ‘sun. “Into the fever-tortured brain there some- times creeps @ semi-consciousness of the life about it, and so during the days of my agony I was vaguely aware of gentle, womanly and a feminine presence in my sick room, and when I returned to. the conscious world I was not surprised to find « fair and t face betide me. She said that she had 1891-SIXTEEN PAGES : all events, in the | operator at | | bair. ; THE TAILOR-MADE GIRL. ‘Things Are Not What They Seem, bat Our Women Look Very Attractive. From the New York Sun. “What a superb figure!” exclaimed the man on the veranda, as = slender woman with a fall Juno-like bustand magnificent hips strolled down the lawn. “What a superb dressmaker she employs!” responded the wife at his side, who had with woman's quick instinct noted the scragsy throat above the stylish collar, the thin, bony wrist beneath its weight of bangles, and drawn her own inferences. Tae splendid creature turned and passed again. Tho figure was that of a goddess fresh sprung from Jove nimecif. ‘The face, thin, wrinkled and haggard, sur- rounded by faded gray hair. The wife smiled ® malicious “I told you so.” The man whistled. Verily, the fashionable modiste deserves o among the immortals, not only for ar- tistée fecling in color harmonies and combina- tions, but for the sculptor's cunning in the arrangement of lines and the fashioning of shapes and forms. The human form divine is only a clay model to the artistic modiste. She Presses it in here, packs it out there, shapes it cleverly to her liking. If she doesn't by taking | thought add one cubit to the stature of her | del, she adds a most convincing and decep- | tive semblance of it by the arrangement of studied lines and draperies. It is unfortunate that the dressmaker’s ideals do not coincide with those of undisputed artis- tic excellence, that they are inspired by Noah's Ark wooden women rather than by Phildean goddesses and Grocian uymphsand sirens. The ressmaker's modeling clay is cotton battingor horse hair, or even the wooden shavings known asexcelsior. With it she works her miracles. Are square shoulders the fancy of the moment? | All her women have shoulders like cadets. Are | hour-glass figures the thing? How uniformly she produces them! Are English waists “in?” Her women out-Lnglish the English in slender- ness. Or are low busts desirable? No woman comes from her hand without the beautiful length of line from the point of the shoulder to the bustcurve. The only thing that really | pleases the artist of the thimbie and shears is # hopelessly stout woman. Flesh is aggressive and combative: if pressed in here it will bulge somewhere else with disastrous effect to metry. But she doesn’t quite lose heart even at this, but laces it in, buttons it down, shuts it ina’ compress of steel, and if the ‘model doesn’t die, sends her out into the world lool ing ten pounds lighter and several inches taller than she is—all of which is the stout woman's delight. ‘The first thing the dressmaker insists upon with her victim is the corset of her particular | fancy. This corset is a wonderful and intricate | arrangement, which gives the long, sloping waist curve to thin and plump figures alike. 1t rounds out the flat figure and binds in the stout one in ite relentless ribs of steel, and woman, with hor marvelous power of endurance, adapts herself to it with smiling grace, tucks away all the vital organs that should be about her waist wherever there happens to be most room, just as she packs her overtlowing summer trank and shuts the lid down relettiessly upon its con- tents, learns to get along with about half the allowance of fresh air ehe should have, and is | happy. | None of the once popular “bust improvers” | of wire, hair cloth, air cushions or curled hair are tolerated now. ' The woman with no bust at | all is the modiste’s delight, for she is convinced that not even the Creator himself can design such ravishing curves and gracious slopes us | she can produce with her wadding and whale- bone. Just now the small, low bust is the thin most desired, and very little padding is us save to fill the hollows about the arm, where it | is liberally supplied botl: at the back and front. Hollow chests are made to look full and beauti- fal with layers of wadding cleverly pulled out at the edges to leave no creases where it | terminates. Prominent shoulder blades and collar bones are set in soft beds of cotton; slop- ing shoulders are built up, and, when the dress | is finally finished, so sure is the dressmaker of the correctness of its cut that if it wrinkles or puffs she stuffs the offending wrinkles with cotton to change the figure rather than disturb the, to her, beautiful lines | of the bodice. Men talk learnedly of the wonderful im- provement in the plvsique of women, of tho | nefits of physical culture, gymnastic aud out- door exercises, and the dressmaker smiles as well as she can for the pins in her mouth, buys more cotton and wadding and whaleboue—and thinks. | This last year a new problem presented itself in the glove-fitting skirt. ‘The dressmaker tackled it, wrestled with it, solved it. She can | make a skirt that fits like & kiss and make the woman inside it seem divine. How? Well,every | one has heard of the girl with the beautiful | hips, which faded away magically at a jab from at pin in the hands of ber naughty and vin- | dictive little brother. Hips of that style are made of rubber bage filled with air, but they are not so universally worn as the paragraph | fiend would have us believe. Not because of conscientious scruples against them, however, but for another reason. ‘The sheath skirt does not stop with hip revelations, but manifests evidences of sharp knees as well,and all the girls are painfully conscious of a great deal besides when the wind blows. Now, every one knows that the girls that can afford it wear tights | beneath their skirts, and on cool days beneath the thin silken webbing are worn heavier ones of merino or cotton. ‘hin girls are always cool. They wear the heavy tights more than stout girls, who never feel’ the need of any clothing, and sometimes delicate, thin girls | have warm wool padding woven into the inside | of the heavy tights, especially about the calf, around the knee joint aud the fullness of the | thigh and hip. There is a shop bere in New York where these things are made. You send in your measure Just as a man sends his for a | coat, and the manufacturer weaves in the wool | just where he thinks, from the measure, ‘will be most liable to take cold. The fa originated with the chorus girls, who call these ‘warm things “symmetries,” and don't even pretend they wear them for warmth. It must be admitted that less fake hair is { worn than in the days of chignons, but what is | worn is better worn and more deceptive than | ever before. The fancy for fluftiness and the | art attained by the hairdresser in produc- ing it in straight hair do away with the neces- sity of abundcnt tresses. But beware of the | loosely coiled knot of hair with its escaping curls. Don't set your affections upon its per-_ | fumed prettiness, for ten to one if it isn't store nd that ‘little curl that always falls so softly against the white neck you long to caress might come off in your hand without shears and without agony to the head itadorns. Fake bangs have pretty well gone out, for with care- ful cutting and curling most hair can be trained into a pretty bang. But there are some tresses that will be pervereely straight on warm days, and the naturally curly hair of some girl who can’t afford to go to the seashore sometimes adorns the straigut-haired girl who can go. False teeth are happily on the decline. Theze | mince the organizatio CHINA'S BIG FLEET. ‘Three Men-of-War Expected to Arrive tp San Francteco, From the San Francieco Framiner. Admiral Ting of the north coast aquadron of the Chinese navy is cruising about Japan.showe ing some of his vessels to the Japanesg nobility and the Caurastan residents who are blessed with offices. Common people, except Chinese, are not allowed on board. Admiral Ting’s entertainments of the upper ten on bis flag ship are described as samewhat beyond description in port of generosity an@ Borgeousness and receive columns of notice im ‘the Japanese journals, which are not usually given to social reports. All the officers speak English @uently. The interest of all this to San Franciscans is that three of the fleet of five making the cruise in Japanese waters will probably visit San Fran- cisco this coming fall. The three vessels that it is proposed to send over here are the fing ebip Chen-Yuen and the cruisers Chib-Yuen and Ching-Yuen. The former is amonster sea foing armor-clad stocl battle ship, 308 fect long v 59 beam, with a displacement of 7,280 tons, She was built at Stettin nine years ago, when her 6,209-horse-power engines gave her a speed of Mig knote. She wears l-inch armor and mounts four 12-inch _37-ton breech-loaders and two 6-inch 4-ton rifles of the same pattern. Two torpedo boate and two torpedo launching tubes complete her offensive capabilities, Her draught is 20 feet and ber coal capacity 1,000 tons. The cruisers to accompany the Chen-Yuen are sister ships in every respect. Both are of steel, both were built at Elewick in 1886, both have a displacement of 2.300 tons and a speed of eighteen and a balf knots. They are belted with four-inch armor, with two-inch turrets and gun shields. Each mounts three eight- inch twelve-ton Dbreech-loaders, two six-inch four-ton rifleg six pounder rapid-firing guns and four forpedo tubes. An attache of the consulate h night that ceived definite anid last been re- ‘announcing the visit of the formidable trio, it had been discussed for @ long time, and'he thought it highly probable that it would be paid before the end of the year. As to the significance of the visit he tiad nothing to say. Some Interesting Statistics Relative to the Issue of Amorican Silver Money. From the Allany Arcus. At the club one of the members pulled ont # handful of small change to pay his bill Have you any quarters?” said one, who was iting near. ea, four. Do you want to borrow them?" ‘0. But what will you bet that I cannot guess the dates on them?” “I do not know what your trick is, but for @ flier I will bet the coins themselves.” “Done. I will name the dates: 1853, 1854 and two of 1876. Am I right? “Let me see. One is 1854; this is 1877; this and this is 1853. You guessed three cor- So you owe me a quar- The fane; s ago to examine the dat found that almost every e dates, with an occasional 1 I suppose more of then those years. Duri took moa few at ject Lhave seen one 1861, uarter bearing date im or in the seventies, ex If one wante he could be mention just long run. I witnessed this transaction, and it interested me #0 that I looked the matter up. In the port of the director of the minut I found « full explanation. In that isa table giving the co age in different d cl sure winuer in the of quarters as fluctuated in am way. Beginning with 1850, for thi coinage averaged about $40,000 a in 1833, it jumped up to €3,513,555. was almost us 3,095,000. ‘Then is Lito $714,260 in In 1856 it was in 1557 €2,411,000 and in 1858 yours the ar. Then, In 1854 es 5 ‘Then it dropped again, never rising to $400, 000, and im war times averaging only six’ thousands, except in 1561, when #1 In 1875 it was 1,075,375; €4,454,257.50; im 1877, €2,727.997.50. Then gan the coinage of silver dollars by the lions and the production of «ubsidiary coins dropped way off. For the past ton or fifteen rs the colage of quarters has averaged only $3,000 or £4,000 a year. Just examine the dates on the quarters that come into your possesion aud see how they bear out these statistics. For instance, in 1886 there were only $1,471.50 in quarters coined, and there area thousand chances to one against a coin of this date coming into your bands. —— +02 Death's Infantile Harvest. From the Philadelphia Record. “This hot weather, so terrible in its effects on infant children, reminds me of asad inct- dent in my own experience several years ago,” said a wellknown physician yesterday. “One afternoon during a spell of blazing July weather I noticed that my baby boy seemed ailing. He was so much worse at night that I told my wife to take him to Cape May the first thing in the morning, and that in the mean- time I would carry him out to Gray's Ferry bridge and keep him there all night to get «@ much fresh air as possible. I thought I would be alone on the bridge, but when I got there found it so crowded with mothers and fathers who had come there with their sick little ones that I could scarcely tind room for my baby carriage. It was an awfully torrid night know that a number of babies died on the bridge before morning, and that many a wotber carried away her litti » either to have it die on the home or soon after reuching there. Never before did I realize the sufferings of the oor in the crowded city during « hot summer, Yhen the morning light came at last we has- tened away with the little fellow to the sea- shore, but it was too late. The city heat had done its work and the next day he died.” —<o-_—_—__ A NEW VARIATION OF AN OLD THEME, The Tall of a Lion, With « Continuation Added by a Monkey. From Life. is nothing so suggestive of the grinuing symbol of death and - And worse than all the rest, they will rattle, and are always left be- hind in case of fire or disaster. Dentists are becoming more and more skillful in the preser- vation of this, one of woman's chief beaut and women will suffer tortures for the sake having one tooth saved. ‘Let us say nothing of the complexion. Ye gods! where is the woman who ever lete us seo ais veil has wrought the destruction ofall principle in this matter, and grease paint, insidious, smooth, difficult of detection, and , is in favor with all Eve's daughters. ‘Never is the artificiality of the fashionable nt as when she goes among her country friends in summer. How slim and straighi and tall she has _grown, how light her foot in its a, fitting boot, how fresh and seasbell- her skin, how exquisitely neat and dainty the fit and fall of her perfumed —— mantles! Her own youngest sister e [