Evening Star Newspaper, April 11, 1891, Page 10

- Es THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON. D.C. SATURDAY, APRIL 11, 1891—SIXTEEN PAGES. HAWAIIAN FISHERMEN WITH A DEVIL FISH. HAWAI FIRE FOUNTAINS. “Have You Been to the Volcano?” TRIP AMONG THE ISLANDS. ‘The Requisite Outfit—Curtous Steamer Scenes —Leper Island of Molokai—Scene of Cook's Death—The Inevitable Fat Woman—Ascent of Mauna Loa. ‘Eéttorial Correspoadence of The Evening Star. Hoxonexe, Hawaiax Istaxps. Be, 77—~ RS. FRANCES TROL- a LOPE, in her “Domes wns RL yt nners of the Amer- icans,” says that she co" 5. +2 = tion between two Amer- ia ans in which the word dollars” did not oc- So in the islands here one is very apt to hear mention of “The Sy~gs..* ‘-Volcano.” Asthewhole CRE SD ~ Luozen istands of the Se" = s+. Hawaiian group are from top to bottom of voleanic origin, it is a little puzzling at first to tell what particular voleano is meant, but presently one comes to understand that inquiries: we you been to the Voleano?” Did you have a rough trip to the Voleano?” Was the Voleano actire?” ¢hich is the best route to the Volcano?” Vat should I wear to the Volean What bagxage can I carry to the “Do ladies have to ride astride to the Vol- ano? all have reference to the great volcano of Kilanea on the island of Hawaii, distinguished ‘as the largest active voleano on the globe and which bas been characterized as “THE GRANDEST TYPE OF FORCE IN TRE WoRLD.” Of these twelve islands thrown up by voleanic setion the only one that has any present ac- tivity is Hawaii, There are two ways of making what is called the “volcano trip.” One is by the Wilder Steamship Company, which takes you a pleas- ‘ant couvse among the islands from Honolula along the southern or leeward side of Molokai, | the “leper island,” between the islands of Maui, Laoai and Molokini, and then to the northern or windward side of Hawaii, the big island of the lot, to Hilo, the most attractive in all the group. From Hilo you go up to voleano, thirty miles, by an excellent car- riage road for fourteen miles and a pretty tire- some horseback ride for the remaining sixteen miles of the way. THE OTHER ROUTE is by the Inter-island steamers, which go over ‘the same courso as the Wilder steamers until ‘Hewaii is reached, when the southern or lee- ward side of the island is skirted and the land- ing is made at Punaluu. From that point the aecent is raade by rail seven miles and by arough carriage road twenty-three miles, the distance im the ascent being the same—thirty miles—by eather route. The cost of the round trip from Honolule and back by either route is also the This includes conveyances, guides, board and lodging for a trip of about seven days. (Of the two routes that by the way of Hilo is the ‘Most interesting and satisfactory, though it in- Yolves a tedious trip on horseback, which has to de made quite we in the rain. But one gets no adequate idea of Hawaii unless he visits ‘this rainy side cf the island with its wonderful Tuxuriance of tropical vegetation. THE BEST COURSE, and the one we adopted, in order to see the izlands all around, is to go by one route and return by the other. This involves some additional ex- pease, and the tourist is subjected toa good many petty annoyances from the Inter-island company, who seek to monopolize the whole excursion business to the voleano, and to make it as unpleasant as possible for anybody desir- ing to go one way and return by the opposition Tine. On the other hand it is but justice tosay ‘that we found the Wilder company every way liging and disposed to aid us in making a sat- ob! isfactory arrangement for the trip coverin; both routes. Ks *: The route settled, the next consideration was ‘THE MATTER OF DRESS AND LUGGAG?. Valises and carpet bags can be packed by either route, but considering the driving rains that are apt to penetrate a valise, the conven- font saddle bags that are in general use here are best for the trip. They are capacious enongh to hold a change of clothing, toilet articles, medicines, &c., which should include ® flask of good whisky, &c. The matter of shoes requires attention. The sharp-edged Java cuts the ordinary shoe, and the heat scorches it so that they are likely to come to pieces before you reach the lake. Acting on the advice of those having experiences we ought cheap lawn tennis shoes, with corru- gated rubber soles; cost $1.50. pair. These served admirably, and while the expensive leather shoes of some of our companions were Fiidl@8. torn to shreds. or bur tt toa crisp, ours came out without injery and served mse- fal purpose in many other trips. ‘The flexible rubber soles enables the wearer to maintain a irm footing in scrembling over the rough lava. Bat above all a water-proof covering that 1a water proof should be secured. The flimsy nary mackin- tosh, or so-called water-proof cloths, eannot be relied on to keep out the driving rains encoun- tered on the windward side. I found, however, at Honolulu a heavy style of rubber overcoat, slit ap bebind for the saddie,and arranged with buttons and straps so that it could be tarned ‘over the legs in front, that served admirably. OFF FOR THE YoLcAxo. We left Honolulu for Hawaii and “The Vol- eano” by the steamer Hall of the Inter-island line ons bright morning that brought out all the charms of the Forest City of the Pacific. The scenes at the wharf were animated. There re crowds of whites and natives on hand to see their friends off, and, according to the pleasant custom here, to load them down with flowers, freits, dc. The water was alive with Drown-skinzed natives diving with arrow-like speed in sure pursuit of any coins thrown from the steamer. At the freight gangway there was a lively sere in the duct sof the Leaving the wharf the steamer passed b: the King’s boat house, the scene of the rosal Jinks, native feasts, poker parties and hula Sed = 7 Wirece -, - Moving out or the harbor the view ebarming. The beautiful waters of the colored every shade of turquoise and peacock biue and green. bordered by the white surf curling over the coral reefs. seemed the fit home of all sorts of graceful sea divinities, but are really the haunts of the most malignant and illfavered of water monstrosities, such as the man-ea:ing shark and the terrible octopus or devil fish. The latter are caught in such num- bers here that they form article of the food supply sold in the Honolulu market. Back was the tier of purple serrated mountains py eh te was Beneat, tie homes of the city showed ‘the ‘trees. Down to our left was its fringe of cocoanut trees and line of pretty summer residences all the way down to Dia- mond Head. Back of the beach was the Royal park, with lily-covered lakes and profusion of | graceful algeroba trees. Adjoining were the | curious fish ponds, the water-covered taro | plant and rice fields, and the young cane fields of delicate pea green, that give such variety to the surroundings of Honolulu. SCENES ON AN ISLAND STEAMER. The larger portion of the passengers on these inter-island steamersare deck passengers. They areof all sorts: Kanakas, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, &c., and as they lie strewed about the iloor in various picturesque groups one is reminded of the deck scenes on a Mediter- | ranean steamer. Many are seasick, for the trip through these island channels is famous | for turning people inside out; but there is always a good deal of eating going on. And they are eating all sorts of cdd things in all sorts of odd ways—the natives eating poi (taro i gers; the Chinese g Tice with chop sticks; some are suck- ing at joints of sugar cane, or drinking the juice from young cocoanuts, others cating raw fish or dried devil fish, bananas and so on. ‘THE HOME OF THE LEPERS. Our course after leaving Oahu was to the | south of Molokai, knownas “the Leper Island” from the settlement of lepers on it. From the abrupt character of its walls on all sides this isiand is called in the native dialect, “the land of precipices.” A piece of beautiful and fertile plain land on the eastern shore of the island, bounded by the ocean on one side and hemmed in on the landward sides by immense precipices, has been set apart by the Hawaiian govern- ment for the use of those afflicted with this frightful disease. The population at this set- tlement in 1389 was reported at 1,191, of which ‘741 were males and 450 females. But of this number only about 700 are lepers. The hus- bands, wives, and children of lepers are. al- lowed to accompany them and live with them there. The pathetic fate of the Belgian priest, Father Damien, who devoted his life to the service of the lepers and died here of the disease; and the recent mission of Sister Ger- trude to the islands in the same direction has given rise to the impression that the lepers are uncared for. This idea does great injustice to the two priests and the ten Sisters of Charity who have devoted their lives in a spirit of unostentatious self-sacrifice to the service of the victims of this most repulsive disease. It does injustice also to the thoughtful and energetic efforts of Hawaiian government to stamp ont the ter- ible disease by isolating the doomed ones and iving them the most kindly care while they | live. “The government devotes 100,000 annu- ally, or about one-twelfth cf the whole income of the islands, to the care of the lepers. It may | be added that the lepers are so well attended to that there was no room for Sister Gertrnde when she arrived at Molokai and she returned to Honolulu, where a place was found for her receiving hospital. jolokai the island of Picturesque mountains, verdure- clad ‘valleys, pea-green cane plantations and dark-green cocoanut groves, presented an at- tractive appearance in contrast with the som- ber leper island. Late heavy reins had washed so much disintegrated or Totten lava down from the mountains as to discolor the water considerably beyond our steamer track, from shore. ALONG THE Coast. The next island reached was Hawaii, and skirting along its leeward side we came to a picturesque landing at a little coast village. The surf was beating high here with a steady roar. Along the beach was a cluster of build- ings, some of them the native grass houses, and conspicuous in the line was a New Eng- land-looking little church, white, with green blinds. These white churches, seen every- where through the islands, look as if dropped from a New England village. A group of the natives occupied the shore at the landing. Some were seated on the rocks and numbers were on horseback. A bright bit of color was given to the picturesque gathering by the Vivid red dresses of some of the women. Parties of the natives were seen coming down the mountain sides, mostly on horseback, the women riding astride. Some of the natives were guiding droves of cattle down the cliff roads to the landing, to be sent by steamer to the Honolulu market. ‘They are tied to small boats and swum off to the steamer, where they are placed on the deck and fastened down by the horns, with heads depressed, so that they cannot thresh about and do themselves harm. Continuing along the leeward coast of Hawaii we reached Kealakeakua bay, where Capt. James Cook, the English navigator, was killed by the natives in 1799. We landed here in smnall boats (ell landings on the islands are made in way except at Honolulu) and visited Cook’s grave. ‘The British government erected a monument over the grave. It is a plain shaft near the shore, enclosed by a chain fence. he aft. The accompanying illustration shows King Kalakeua and party on a visit to Cook's grave. ‘The long-dearded personage near the royal group is John Cummins, a patriarchal native, who was Jargely instrumental in raising Kala- kaua to the throne, and who was appointed prime minister in king's reconstructed cabinet. “The road striking up on the Mosaic plan, where escaped criminals were safe from pursuing avengers. This bay with the beautiful blue of its waters and background of picturesque mountains 18 a charming spot despite its somber history. ‘The cliffs a few hundred feet above the bay are something of a resort for invalids in quest of ‘an equable climate, having a little more tonic snap to it than that of the const level. A de- serted native grass house near the Cook monu- ment was pointed out as the place once occu- pied by a leper, who, armed with a loaded gun, resisted for a long time all efforts to remove him to the leper island. CONCEALMENT OF LEPERS. Between Kealakeakua bay and Punaluu (our landing for the Volcano) were many sugar plantations and cattle ranches. The manager of one of these plantations on board our steamer says that there are many lepers on the island living in caves or other places of con- cealinent, to avoid being sent to the leper set- tlement on Molokai. They are fed and cared for in their hiding places by their relatives or friends. The natives have no dread of leprosy and resist or try to evade all efforts of the health authorities to take away any of their number who show symptoms of tho disease. Lepers are foely employed on the plantations and cattle ranches, and their fellow laborers make no objection to associating with them. Nor have the managers of the plantations. ‘The general belief among them is that leprosy not contagious. It is contended even by some prominen? physicians here that leprosy ia com- miunicated only by sexual intercourse, or very close personal association, and it is assorted that there has never been an instance here of a leproas white woman. The cultivation of the cane on this leeward side of the island is by irrigation. ‘The water is used several times,—first to float the cane down to the mill in the flume, next to turn the mill, and afterwards indefinitely for irrigation. The tong rolling bills covered with green cane look like the English downs in apring. THE LANDING AT PUNALUU in a rough sen (as we had it) is difficult. The natives, Chinese, and Japanese were dumped into the small boats without ceremony, but when it came to lowering the whites by the gangway ladder there was trouble, especially with one fat woman. There is always sure to be at least one fat woman on every difficult excursion of this kind, and ours was a bouncer. She was fully up to the mark of what Mr. Dana con- sidors the limit for an eligible presidential can- didate. The robust native deck hands,who, by Batching the opportunity when the boat bobbed up on the top of a wave near the platform, had managed to lower the other passengers success- fully,found it impossible to deal with her. She clung to the ladder and refused to budge. Finally she was dropped in a heap in acol- lapsed and insensible condition in the bottom of the boat. PUNALUU. Punaluu, the landing point for the volcano trip, consists mainly of the little one-story hotel kept by Mr. Peter Lee, the proprietor of the volcano road on this side of the mountain. Here we were comfortably cared for by Lee and his stout, good-bumored, native wife. Our hostess rather mystified us in the start by going around inquiring who of the party were mar- ried. There was consternation. It was evi- dent that some benedicts were passing them- selves off as bachelors. It turned out, how- ever, that in the rather contgcted sleeping ac- commodations of the tiny hotel it was neces- sary that the guests should double up, and in order not to make any mistakes against law and propriety in alloting pariuers Mrs. Lee was Putting “us through | these census questions. ‘e were up and off at 7 o'clock the next morn- ing, after an early breakfast, on our way to the volcano. The start was made on a primitive piece of railroad that runs from Punaluu five miles up the valley toa sugar plantation. Our train consisted of @ little wheezy engine and a single passenger car as large and with the same arrangement of seatsas an Irish jaunting car. It was a beautiful morning and we had a jolly party. Our course was a continuous succession of sigzags, Jocps and curves over the rough lava fields all the way up to the sugar mill. On gue steep grade our little engine came toa halt. The stoker got off and strewed sand on the tracks to give the wheels a grip and we moved on again. The view was very pleasing. ‘To our right was a charming ocean view, the water being of the wonderful shades of blue of these seas that surpasses the beauty of coloring of the waters of the Mediterranean, Adriatic or ZXgean seas. To our left was the vast rounded, whale-backed, snow-capped MAUNA LOA, OR LONG MOUNTAIN. In front the bright green of the cane fields afforded a pleasant contrast to the somber reds and browns of the lava waste. Great flocks of plover were circling around our heads, and the air was full of yellow buttertlies, Wo were now ascending the enormously ex- tended flanks of Mauna Loa, the summit crater of which is 14,000 feet high and its lateral crater, Kilauea, for which we were now headed, 4,000 feet. Though approximating the height of Mt. Blanc and rising directly from the sea so that it presents its full elevation directly to the sight it covers such an immense territory that it looks only like » big rounded hill or ridge. It slopes so gradually from the summit that its base is 180 miles in circumforence! Mauna the scientists say, differs from most all other voleanic mountains in the flat- tening and widening of its summit and the spreading of its base. It is the flattened sum- mit which gives so vast a bulk to @ mountain of its altitude. This is due to the absence of cinder ejections, whereby the summit fails of the most common means of growth of height, with tapering top, in volcanic mountains. Near- sugar mill there were more signs of it A portly native woman, riding astride on horseback and —— her beast by vigorous prods with her heats, came down's mountain path. Numerous ox’ teams were drawing cane to the mill. ‘MORE TROUBLE YOR THE FAT WoMAN. ‘We took carriages (wagons) atthe mill for the rest of theascent. Our fat woman had fresh tribulations. The road was rough and steep and she had a time of it to keep her sent, and she was terror to her neighbors. When- ever a jolt came she lurched heavily right and left, and she was constantly impénding over the down-bill side passengers like on avalanche. But nothing serious happened. Later on inthe trip the fat woman on horseback. She Foloasttide und mals bnampioesen show: Ao zr Our team was, accompanied. by a native boy on horseback, whose mission it was to keep the leaders up to’ their work with along whip and to cut switches or rather limbs from the trees by the roadside, to replace, the whips of the native driver, which had been broken very soon after the start in the merciless beating he gave his horses in urging them up the stony road. Here, as in many other instances, we had occasion to note A CURIOUS ANOMALY IN THE NATIVES, who seemed a most kindly, amiable people, and yet who treat dumb animals, especially horses, with the most heartless barbarity. At tho rustic Half-way House, where we dined, the horses of our team were not fed or watered, and in answer to an inquiry the driver said they would not ent or drink anything if offered them. On our start after dinner, how- ever, one of the horses expressed a decided dis- sent to thie theory by refusing to budge an inch. though whipped and pounded with clubs. Finally the innkeeper gothim in motion by throwing big stones at him. Water, it should be added, is a rather scarce article on this leeward side of the mountain. Between the sugar mill and the Half-way House some of our party getting thirsty, were told that the only water to be obtained was in the rocky pockets of a guich some distance from the road. And as we moved off in search of the water the driver shouted a warning to look out for wild enttle, who would be certain to “go for us” if we crossed their track. The water, when found, proved to be utterly unfit to drink. The cattle against which we were warned are not the wild cattle of the mountaii but are herds turned out to feed upon the scanty pasturage of the neighbor- hood and who get so vicious while running at large that they ferociously attack any one on foot, but have a wholesome dread of one on horseback. ‘THR WILD ANIMALS OF HAWAII. At the Half-way House there was talk about the wild animals of the island. We were now in the vicinity of the wide forest beit that occu- pies the middle portion of the mountain sides and which in many places is an almost impene- trable jungle of tropical vegetation. These tangled forests are the haunt of numbers of wild animals of different kinds. Sheep could not be raised in the vicinity because of the wild dogs, that were too foxy to be trapped or killed by’ poison. The mountains abound in wild hogs. ‘These when cornered will make a fierce fight. The tusks of the boars are in de- mand by the Honolulu jewelers to be made juto ornaments, and the wild hogs are likely to exterminated in this way. The boars are gaunt, fierce-looking animals with enormous tusks,’and hide an inch and a half thick on the shoulders. WILD CATTLE exist in such numbers yet in the mountains that they are doing great injury to the forest growth by browsing and trampling down the young trees. ‘The bulls in these wild herds are said to be magnificent-looking animals, black with glossy skins, as if they had been curried, and weighing 1,000 pounds on the average. The cows resemble the Texas cattle, but with smaller horns. The wild cattle are hunted best by following their trails through the for- est jungles and not by pursuing them with dogs, which frighten them into’ precipitate flight. From tho difficultics in packing any- thing out of these jungles, the process of kill ing the wild cattle is very wasteful. It does not pay to take anything more than their hides and hind quarters, which are converted into jerked beef and sent to the Honolulu market. FROM THE HALF-WAY HOUSE upward the road grew rougher and more dreary. The miles seemed to streteh out in- terminably as we toiled slowly up the lava waste and zigzagged round the great masses of @a, or jagged rough broken clinker lava, or scrambled over fields of the smooth, slippery, billowy lava flows called 00. The air got rawas we neared the top and struck the sea mists coming over from the windward side of the island. “Heavy showers of rain came down without any warning, and with equal suddenness were succeeded by sunshine and brilliant rainbows. Some of us got out to walk between showers tostretch our cramped legs and warm our chilled blood. Still no signs of the volcano. Our driver, who for the last twenty miles had been bombarded incessantly with the question, “WHERE IS THE VOLCANO?” continued to answer by pointing with his whip indefinitely over tho vast lava waste beyond. There was no cone or prominence or smoke or anything whatever to indicate the locality of the great fire fountain. Finally surmounting rough tract of territory we came in sight of avast platean of broken lava, from the seams and cracks of which rose innumerable jets and spouts of vapor. : Onr road took us right through the choking fumes from a eat bank of beautifully tinted sulphur. In the middle portion of this t flattened mountain top was a vast oblong depression, perhaps ten miles in circumference, and away at the south end of this pit, four or five miles away, there arose some clouds of pinky white vapor that our driver said covered ‘‘the lake of fire.” Ascending some cliffs beyond the sulphur bank we reached the Voleano House, a long, low structure overlooking the great crater of Kilauea. A perfect riot of wild roses and other bright-colored flowers, and the bright green of the mist-watered turf bordering the hotel made a charming relief to the gloomy lava wastes on all sides. A TIRED AND HUNGRY CROWD. We reached the Voleano House tired, chilled and ferociously hungry. Our host, Col. Maby, a stalwart six-footer, bustled about actively— or as actively as so big a man could bustle—to provide for our wants, first lighting a fire of algeroba wood in the immense open fireplace of the pattern of the Maine lake fishing club honses, where most of the heat goos uj chimney. ‘The big main room of the hotel, un- plastered and open to the rafters, contained among ite wall decorations the American flag and pictures of various Union officers. ‘This was explained served in & Connecticut regiment during th civil war. By the time we had got well warmed and dried, our host, by the aid of his native wife—an in: t, well-educated woman—and the cay by the fact that Maby e ble Chinese cook, an appetizing meal. This com, some of the favorite dishes of the country. There was the nutty- flavored taro root cooked in potato form (which we thought we might learn to like); the poi, a sour fermented preparation the taro, which tastes as stalo newspaper office paste smelis (which we sampled sparingly and taro muffins fetch were delicious and vanished literally ‘¢ hot cakes), roast pig cooked native fashion, wrapped in fi leaves and surrounded by hot stones, (which was more entrancing than the Lamb), and lastly wehad « delightfully piquant ‘eparation of (profane pronuntiaiion) Parties for dessert. A WILD WEIRD NIGHT. After dinner scme went out to get a distant view of Kilauea, buta cold rain soon drove everybody indoors and very soon all were con- tent to go to bed to rest for the descent on the morrow. The favorite sleeping rooms in this little one-story inn are those facing upon the where one can overlook through the night Madame Pele's grand show of fire works, At night the vapors rising from the far away lake of fire take a reddish color as Vesuvins does, which sends outa white smoke by day and red by night, reflecting the internal fires below. But the lights from Kilauea take on varied shapes. At times they ascend in placid, graceful wreaths, like clouds of steam, and then again they shoot up through the black sky like the streamers from an intensified Au- ‘Though we werea pretty tired set very good night for sleep. There were all sorts of gruesome sights, sounds and smells. In front were the weird’ supernatural lights of the fire that burns without ceasing. From the rgar the fierce windward blasts camo dashing she§te of rain against the windows and jouse reel and groan as if Pele, the g of the volcano, with all her malig- nant train was striving to ‘pitch us over the precipice into her infernal fiery cauldron. ere was an all- ing smell of brimstone, the fumes from the sulphur vents on all sidos of the hotel. Repeatedly through the night the house was shaken by earthquake tremors, which aro so frequent here as to cause no comment. And in the intervals of the super- natural noises, the thin partitions of the rooms were penetrated through the length and breadth of the house, by the sleep-killing snoring of the fat woman. Altogether it was a wild weird night. . BN. ——_+22- —___ NEW YORK Gossip. ‘What Is Going On in the Busy Metropolis. ONE OF BARNUM'S MASTERSTROKES OF HUMBUG— A DINNER TO CELEBRATE THE COPYRIGHT BILL— 18 DR. BRIGGS A HERETIC—THE SCUM OF ITALY COMING HERE. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. ‘New Yor, April 9, 1891. ARNUM HAS ENTWINED HIS LIFE with that of about as many people as any man of the age. Nearly everybody can join in reminiscences. To give my own one of my earliest memories is of taking my ister, then searcoly more than @ toddling baby, and walk- ing down from my grandfather's house on 85th street fully three miles, throngh the Five Points and other choice localities to the old museum. We were amply compensated for our walk by seeing the impressive panorama of wild beasts which embellished the outside of the building. Ono feature of the episode more amusing in retrospect than in actual occur- rence was that we had been brought to New York to attend s funeral, and that our stroll far overlapped the ceremony, delaying the pro- ceedings and spreading additional gloom through the family. When I wasa little older I was permitted to enter this palace of magic, in spite of strict family traditions on the eub- ject of theaters, &c., and we were even per- mitted to attend’ performances in the lecture room or lyceum, although a theater was sternly tabooed. “Barnim’s “lecture room” was one of his masterstrokes of humbug. It was of course nothing more nor less than a variety theater, but the name and a certain moral twang fo the programs mado it entirely unob- jectionable to the most unbending of the or- thodox. I haye a dim suspicion that my father was not only willing that I should at- tend the periormances in’ this lecture room, but thathe was not at all averse to taking me there himself. We all know how useful asimall boy 1s when a circus comes to town. SCATTERING REWARDS OF MERIT. Monday night will sce a brilliant gathering at Sherry's restaurant on 5th avenue. This will be a grand jollification by the friends of the new copyrighit law over the passage of that act. ‘Tho poet Steadman will preside, and among the guests of the evening will be Count de Karatry, who has represented, sometimes more dil gently than the friends of copyright really wished, the claims of French auth is in this matter. vi g il, and the count will be greeted with smiles and applause, especially as he bears in his hands decorations for some of the leaders in the fight. Mr. Robert Underwood Johnson of the Century, to whose indefatigable efforts and never-say-dieativenoss the success of _ 60 largely due, will privilege of wearing one decorations—the cross. of the Another cross is to be given the the Legion of Honor, to Mr. Simonds, who championed the bill so successfully in’ the House. As Mr. Simonds was the victim of the McKinley cycione last November, and is now consequently a private citizen, he can accept the gew gaw; but Senator Platt, who fought the Lill in the Senate, being an officer of the government, must be contented with an honorific ribbon instead. Great prep- arations are being made to have the dinner a grand event. All the leading publishers, authors and other elements in the cause have been invited, and much is known concerning the list of guests to warrant the belief that the meeting will be one of the most interesting and notable in the literary history of America. dinner will be iiss by the Authors’ Copyright League and will be the eighth anniversary of that organization. YOUNG NAPOLEONS OF MUSIC. Tonight there is to be a grand testimonial at the Metropolitan Opera House to Director E. C. Stanton. The pick of the musical world will be resent, either as performers or listeners to do im honor. Mr. Stanton deserves his laurels. His career has been an extraordinary one, ond refutes the theory some like to put forward nowadays that great success is beyond the reach of young men. A few years ago Mr. Stanton was an entry clerk in a down-town store, and he was engaged at first at the Metro- politan simply in an obscure clerical, position. jut talent led to opport , and that to vie- tory and power. Today he is probably the most important employer of musical talent in America, if not in the world. It is rather singular circumstance that side by side with him has developed another very young man in a somewhat ‘sitilar career,” Mr. Walter Damrosch. ‘This gentleman ‘is about to crown a very brilliant record by taking the musical direction of the new Music Hall, which Mr. Carnegie bas founded and which is practically a gift from him to the mu- sical world. This splendid enterprise will be formally inaugurated on the 5th of next month by aseries of performances, both orchestral and vocal, of extraordinary interest. As it seems quite necessary to have a foreign lion on such occasions, the Russian composer, Tschai- kowsky, will be the central figure.” He will personally conduct several of his own composi- tions. In addition there will be performed several of the principal works of Beethoven, Wagner, &c., und two oratorios. The sale of seats for the opening night amounted to more than $7,000. 18 DR. BRIGGS A HERETIC? The action of the Philadelphia presbytery overturing the general assembly to veto the ap- intment of Prof. Briggs to the chair of iblical theology in Union Theological Semi- nary will probably bring toa head a ferment, which ina quiet way has been exciting the ibyterian church suring the past few months. No one questions the piety or learn- ing of Prof. Briggs, but in many quarters there ig strong feeling that he should not occupy the post of an instructor to those who are studying for the ministry in the Presbyterian church in view of his very pronounced dif- ferences of view from those held on theology by the bulk of Presbyterian theologians, past and present. This will be the ground of con- tention, and on this ground, I judge, there will be very'serious controversy. Prof. Briggs is one of those men of intenso individuality, who hasan extraordinary charm for young men and is a natural leader. His influence on the rising young men and the fature clergy of strongest bodies in the church. hand, he is not at all in favor among the more, shall’I say, orthodox leaders. Probably the GEeAt influence of Princeton. with President itton actively at the head, will be cast against him in any issue that might be joined ia the eneral a: = colt outcome of e grand wouk y course, no one could predict. ‘The trial of such a man a8 Prof. iggs for heresy, for that is practically what is involved, might precipitate a crisis in the whole church. On the other hand, the modera~ tion and wisdom shown by the general assembly in treating the delicate question of revision, made from taro flour | m0*t FAMOUS BALL ROOMS. Those in This City That Have No- table Social Records, THREE ADMINISTRATIONS Covered by the Picture Gallery of Postmaster Genera, Wanamaker — Spacious Dancing Booms at the English, Mexican Chinese and Russian Legations—OtherHandsomeRooms. A MODERN MANSION NOWADAYS IN +4 Washington is incomplete without a big room. Itneed not necessarily be a ball room and reserved for such purposes and no other. Indeed some recent commentators upon past social events agree that a spacious dining room would more generally answer the needs of those who with hospitable bent set out to entertain that large family known as official society. But call it what you will, the absolute necessity for one large room, separate and distinct from the usual spaciousness of the drawing room, the library and the ordinary dining room, is a Powerful social factor which seems widely recognized among those who have built them- selves homes here during the last decade. Some call them picture galleries, others dining halls and others ball rooms. As a rule they all atiswer the same purpose and are but a sub- stantial expression of the generous ideas of hospitality, which are part and substances of the latitude in which we live naturally attracts people of the same tempet ment here to enjoy as well as offer such ad- vantages. ONE NOTED ROOM AND ITS CHANGES. When the Frelinghuysen family were at the top.of the social ladder eversbody seemed to think that nothing more could be added to make their home more attractive. Yet when the Whitneys came and saw the field they con- quered it by adding their since famous ball room. The belles of the Cleveland ad- ministration will tell their grandchildren and which rome day what the latter, looking backward, may reasonably call legends of by-gone splen- dor. If no other tales of festivity are remem- torian—not only with facts Whitney's balls were dreams. No such !avish dis- play of flowers, no such absolutely perfect sup- pers, no such’ complete detail in everything which could conduce to the pleasure not only of the favored few, but the great body 1 so- ciety, were ever seen here in a continuous series. Outside of the balls thia ball room witnessed the most notable occasions of the period. The musicales, the readings both by umatenrs and profe influences. Mrs. James Brown Potter “Ostler Joe” made the big jump into f: there which started the real theatrical carecr for the former. Baby Dorothy's christe festivities took place there, and these two mar- jonals exerted the widest nd velously beautiful Christmas tree parties, the | one for the petted darlings of the West End and the other just as charming for Sister Sarah's big family of orphan children. + CHANGES BY MR, WANAMAKER. Another turn of the political wheel and the mansion and the ball room finds new owners. Postmaster General Wanamaker entirely trans- formed the house with newer and more elegant furnishings and the Louis XVI ball room became a picture gallery or mneic room, which- ever you like. There will be probably no more ‘dances given in it for another while. Many of those who were present the past win- ter, when Mrs. Booth made her eloquent plea for the Salvation Army, were also there when Mrs. Potter electrified society by her daring elocutionary effort. It was a strange contrast. ‘The Wanamakers are fond of their pictures, The subjects of them are all pleasing. It ism treat, which many have enjoyed, to make the tour of the gallery with either the host or host- es. They are always adding new pictures or other beantiful objects to the room. They are as lavish in the use of flowersas the Whitne: were, which expresses a great deal in Washi ton.’ The suite of rooms from the draw room back are as luxuriously furnished as any at the capital. The walls everywhere are cov- ered with pictures, In the library the wails above the book shelves are lined with old en- gravings, which are looked on as very curious by those who prefer modern art. SENATOR SAWYER'’S BALL ROOM. ‘The ball room at Senator Sawyer’s mansion is decorated in the Moorish style. Mrs, Howard White brought home from Spain copies of bas reliefs in the Alhambra, and these are repro- duced in the ceiling of her beautiful room. It has eastern hangings at the doors, all richly embroidered in gilt, and it is lighted by elec- trie lights, which shine through curious old Persian lamps which are suspended from the ceiling. In the bay window there is a cush- ioned settee. ‘MR. JOHN R. M'LEAN'S LOFTY LIBRARY. Mr. John R. McLean's ball room is like every- thing else about his mansion, spacious and lofty. Its coloring is rick and dark. The fire- place at the south end of the noble apartment is big enough for a half dozen ordinary sized people to find in its recesses a safe hiding place. The massive carved mahogany mantel- piece extends nearly to the ceiling, and is al- most matched in general effect by the organ on the west side of the room. The walls all around are lined with low book cases and above that are hung with terra-cotta brocade. ‘The room for every day use is furnished han somely. The beautifully carved old mahogany tables and chairs are supplemented by cozy and luxurious couches aud easy chairs. around the top shelf of the book cases are ranged rare and beautiful pieces of china, bronzes, with here or there a portrait, aiamp, &c. When cleared of the furniture and made ready for a ball in space it gives more dancing room than any other private ball room in this city. The spacious hall adjoining it on either side and the wide staircase, which forms really an annex, upon the festive occasions which the room has so frequently witnessed all contrib- ute to its artistic beauty. At the top of the landing is a gallery for the musicians, from which point a beautifal view of the ball room can be had. Those who were present at the children’s Christmas balls given by Mr. and Mrs. McLean for their yonngson will remember what a wonderful feast of color and beauty the scene made. ‘the room was transformed into amimic forest and the Christmas trees laden with presents, the youthful guests in their pi turesque dresses all made a picture of un- rivaled charm. Mrs. McLean has about transformed her beautiful Louis XIV drawing room into an aviary. In gilded cages are all sorts and con- ditions of feathered songsters. To some of them are given the freedom of the room, and it isa pretty sight to sce the birds flying from one corner to corner. AT THE ENGLISH LEGATION. Crimson and gold are the leading embellish- ments of the English legation ball rooms. ‘The walls are papered in gilt and the heavy hang- ings at all the windows and doors are of bright crimson brocade. Three large crystal chande- liers hang from the lofty ceiling. If they could talk every crystal drop could tell a tale of social splendor or of international love 2 last historical episode in which Cupid art was when Hon. Joseph iss Endicott there. troduced his two younger brillignt even on a8 ng | nj ing | | matrons and belles. It has had othe The home government does not seem to care to decurate its legation with anything sug- gestive of Mexico, and there is really very lit tle in the house different from that in any modern mansion. Mr. Romero has some good pictures, which he especially prizes, and one of them is a “Holy Family,” by Raphael. Ms Romero has quite a collection of the curio: rag figures depicting Mexican t, rom the grand senor to the market won hich afford her friends pleasure. The superb gold service which is need on the legation table has no duplicate in this city at least. The minister presented it to his wife only a few yenrs ago. THE STEWART CASTLE. The Chinese legation ball room in a race for honors would come out an easy second and ask no favors cither. When Senator Stewart built his castio ball rooms were as scarce as the pro- verbial angel's visits. With its gorgeous crim- son and gilt upholstery, it began to be famous | right off, and in oné way or other has never lost its hold in the public mind. Since the Chinese | made the castie its legation house, the ball Foom played an important part in ite dipio- | matic history. The famous balis given by the predecessor of the present. m mp tious suppers and the awful b: the guests on the dining room teed which will yet be imm. story, the magnificent banquet that he gave to | Mr. Cleveland's cabinet, which was spread in this ball room, bis birthday parties, | his emall dances and all the rest of his princely hospitalities in which this big room came int active play were all great occasions. room makes a very theater ¢ room, as it b nd two smi forms, and has been often used f usicales, Only for a de the impe ly, society would have chance a tions ready to last February.” In the pa are some wonderful speci carving, &c., a few ha ments, but as a rule land of its occupants. RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY. ply next winter there will be no gayer ball room than the far-famed and far-honored one at the Russian legation. For the last three or four years it has been quite out of the cur- rent, but next winter, when it is hoped Baron e Struve will bring back his daughter, now a x him, its As modern ideas now gO is now considered old-fashioned aad ceds some freshening up to make it a rival of others. Still it has echood the slippered tread of many a fair dame and gallaut when Mme. de Strave lived, as her winter series of balis er, had all his pre ball on the 6th of | i of the legation nsof lacquer work, me Chinese orna- very little to suggest the were iy the great were attended with all fashio Mi later on gavo fencing exh ball room on Sunday mort to which came as his guests the I like Shrove Tuesday night, when a part of the social world were the guests there of Mr. Han- sen at @ musicale, a dance and a supper. DR. HAMMOND'S MAN Dr. Hammond's ball room is the court in the center of his mansion upon which all the rooms | open. It is the most ficently decorated. A floor adds greatly to the scenic ef- brilliant gathering on the floor be- low issecn from it and the onlookers them- selves forma part of the picture ball Toom is the realization of modern splendor. THE HEARST PICTURE GALLERY. The Hearst ball room is also a picture gal lery. Mrs. Hearst has taken every opportunity to gratify her love for old things, and in her home here has collected together many of the | beautiful things she owns. She has in her lofty ball room a wonderfully carved eabinct, some superb tapestries, fine pictures and rich hangings, which are ail unique in their way. Mrs. Hearst has probably the prettiest door bell in this city. “A vine runs up the wall near the door and hanging from it is a single flower. You pull the flower, the vine gives a little tremble and you hear the tinkle of the bell in the hall. Of course the flower and the vine are wrought iron, but that only makes it more cu- rious. The dining room of the house is in old Dutch style, bui the ball room suggests the | lighter and more tasteful effects of French | salon. Mrs. Hearst, who built her house with princely ideas of hoxpitality,has a supper room under the ball room, 60 her house is really the best equipped here for purposes of large entertainments. SENATOR STANFORD'S IMPROVEMENTS. Senator and Mrs. Stanford found the man- sion that they have been occupying the past six years inadequato to the demands upon it on occasions of large receptions, and during their absence this summer a more spacious dining room will be added to the house. In effect it will be totally different from the rest of the house, and while it will be in the extremely simple style of the colonial period, Mrs. Stan- ford has so many beautiful possessions which will show to good advantage in it that it will soon be reckoned among finest dini: rooms of the West End. It is to be finish entirely in white, 8» far as the wood work is concerned, and the decorations and hangings will be in light, tasteful effects. The music room at Senator Stockbridge’s house is nother of the fine rooms. It has an organ and a piano and there is plenty of room for a large company. BOUNDARY CASTLE. At Mr. Henderson's residence, Boundary Castle, the hall and the drawing rooms a light and gay in effect. The hall is particu- larly admired, decorated as it is in the Moorish style. The ball room is rich and dark. The heavy mahogany used in the wood work and the dark, rich reds of the walls forma fine back- ground for the pictures which nearly cover them all. Mr. Stilson Hutchins’ the big room in his sion. Mr. B. H. Warder's fine residence is made complete by the picture gallery. Inthe two new houses building now, Mrs. Chandler's, corner of 16th and K streets, and Mr. Henry Strong's, & square above it, there will be large rooms. Mr. Strong has said ina joking way that his big room was not neces- sarily a ball room and that he really intended | to make a skating rink of it for his little daugh- ter and ber friends. ‘MR. JOHN W. THOMPSON'S PALL ROOM. Mr. John W. Thompson has one of the finest ball rooms in this city, and it has frequently been the scene of notable events. It is deco- rated in the style of the drawing rooms, and when all the communicating doors are thrown open it makes, in connection with the long par- lor on one sideand the library and dining roora on the other, one spacious apartment. It's walls, as, indced, all of the other rooms, are covered with fine pictures, selected by Mr. Thompson or his daughter during their many journeys to Europe. ‘Mr. and ‘Mrs. BH. Warner added a large room to their house lately, in which their hosts of friends have found extra comfort and pleas- ure upon occasions of their large entertain- ments. In the old regime the ball rooms of the Ma- ire house on E the Cresswell house, corner of 18th and I streets, the Coleman man- sion on H street, the Wallach house, the Cor- coran mansion and the Porter residence on H picture gallery makes usetts avenue Inan- that — practically | “Ova Aarnoas Howes AND HOW TO FURNISH THEM.* | TTITe TERR eee Uo UR ke Uv UARR ER Co Ch RE ve K ReERS Visrrons To New Youx ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO CALL AND IR. SPECT OUR STOCK AND PRICES. LARGEST DISPLAY OF RELIABLE FURNITURE 30 BE SEEN IN AMERICA. Twelve Show Re tions of the Furniture and Upho! A220 with the Intest prodee Art trom the ery S PPE RRR R. Sto R RR & SPR Ree 2 " <r Rk R OO, MoM OO R RN NN KHER OR FURNITURE MAKERS AND IMPORTERS. 1, 3, 6 WEST 22D ST., NEW YORK. af estabishment om fre Ss. Seno Srvirs. FINE CALF SHOPS } CORDOVAN SHOPS KANGAROO SHOES POR MEN. ) RUSSET LEA. OXFORDS, | PATENT LEA. OXFORDS, FOR LADIFS, VESTING TOP OXFORDS | Pat. LEA. TIP OXFORDS, J PLAIN KID OXPOKDS ROOVER & SNYDER, 2217 Pennsylvania ave. fore open ali micht i ey |¥ ii |P if tuk Nira Hair Balsans is \y | Wa | wy wil How d Willisius’ Quinme and Kura Hair iii Handoline is unequaled utifier of the com. ete Ladies? QUININE. 1 dozen L-erain Capsules, Ldozen. wers & Weirhtman Don't mistake the place THE STOBE, under Masons" Ten pie mubisecSu F. 8. WILLIAMS y Coxsvurriox, Thave a positive remedy for the above disease. hy ite tse thousands of cases of the worst kind an standing have been cured. Indeed, in its efficacy, that I will send T" with a VALUABLE TREATISE on ¢ sufferer who will seud me dress T. dal7-s20t Tar New Mesto Patsce, 453, 455, 457, 400, 461, 463 Washington street, in the exact trade center of Bostom, is the present central estabiisuiment of OLIVER DITSON COMPANY, And includes an elegant Jarre retatl store of 70 foot front, piano parlors of great beauty and many halla, Ware Tooms und offices devoted to the sturin of the largest stock of inusic um the continent every known band, orchestral of other sustruneut The store, from its situation, t# accessible to music icvers in eastern Massachusetts, and, by versal system of advertising, mailing of iis catalogues, extensive correspondence and mailing and expressing of goods ordered, practically stands at the door of every village home and isa meisti= bor to all the scattered farm houses of the wlole apt street were the most prominent of all. Be- sides being ball rooms they were all used as picture galleries. Tho old residents remember with pleasure the picture collection in the gal- lery at the Maguire homestead. ‘THE CORCORAN HOUSE. During the last years of Mr. Corcoran’s li the ball room in his house did not play any part in the festive round. He intended it care of servants. the gallery hang life-size portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Eustis and a few other pictures. Ina corner is the a by Mr. Corcoran during his declining years. house hus been recent! mat in readiness for the return of Miss Eustis From the south, and something of the lone. country. Correspond freely for lists, information or musical advice. For Children—Motion songs [25e., €2.28 doa. Bordman. Golden Boat (Jt. ], Mise Chant. Social Singing—College Sons (50) 200,000 sold. Song Collections—Song Classics, Vol ‘Choice Sacted Solon, (#1. } 4 somes. Piano Collections Popular Piano Collection, 181.) 27 pieces. Popular Danee Colle tion, (#1.) 08 pieces, Mailed, post-paid. on receipt uf aluve prices, OLIVER DITSON COMPANY, BOSTON. 2. E. DITSON & ©O., M. S. Canuz & Cos ness which has settled upon it since ite owner's death has been diss Sestar Gney adios ts ths Chesneibiengs and his wife ana Sey coos me bad many happy” gatherings of in the spacious Foom, upon which the drawing root opens. ‘The Porter mansion has a ball room, thevery ALMA POLISH ‘a the Best Dressing in the WORLD for Ladies’ Fine Shoes.