Evening Star Newspaper, December 14, 1889, Page 10

‘10 — THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, ' * ita til D. C.. SATURDAY, DECEMBER 14, 1889-SIXTEEN PAGES. Written for Tux Evextve Stan. COLLEGE GYMNASIUMS. Where the Giants of Foot Ball are Trained in Manly Sports. PROF. GOLDIE, THE FAMOUS INSTRUCTOR, WRITES OF THE SYSTEMS OF TRAINING AT YALE, HAR- VARD, CORNELL, AMHERST AND PRINCETOS—SCI- ENCE AS APPLIED To MUSCULAR DEVELOPMENT. The universal interest taken in college ath- letics at the present time is a healthy indica- tion and one that must be pleasing to every man who takes an interest in the physical ad- vaneement of the coming generation, To my- self it is especially gratifying. Durmg an experience of nearly thirty years in professional athletics I have come to the conclusion that there is no better training for the battle of life than to give aman a strong, sound body and well-developed muscles. I could point out many very prominent men in this city today who have had the whole course of their lives beneficially influenced by their early athletic training. Bat athletics serve a moral purpose as well. You take a manof good physique and with strong passions and the latter, as well as the muscular energy, require an outlet. It remains for the instructor to turn them into the proper channel. If you give such aman some task that will occupy ‘bis muscles as well as bis mind and upon which he can expend his sur- = energies he will be all the better moraily jor it. If you don’t give him something to do he will be sure to find something that may not be quite so desirable. Athletics have come to be regarded as a po- tent moral factor in our colleges. President McCosh of Princeton, when I was leaving that institution in 1855 after having been for sixteen Years its instructor in athletics, recognized this Principle when he said that the system of phy- sical culture inaugurated and followed there during that time had done more to elevate the Moral tone of the college than any other de- partment. A recognition of this principle from fo distinguished a source is not without its in- fluence on colleges elsewhere. PROF. GOLDIE. In many respects the training of the body is Ike that of the mind; before you accomplish jood results you must make the student or yapil himself take an interest in the process. ‘tis not enough that you develop the muscles 2f 4 man and make him a strong and vigorous athlete; this alone does not satisfy him. You must get him to watch the gradual unfolding of his physical powers and to familiarize himself with those physiological laws thet govern his body and which cannot be violated with im- Punity. This of itself isa gain. It is the best moral discipline I know of, for any man who takes a pridein bis physique will hardly go ery far wrong morally. There is a wide and very notable difference in the systems pursued by ‘the various coll in regard to athletics, and herein lies largely the secret of the superiority of one coi- lege over another. Of course, the first desid- eratum, in considering college athletics, is abundant room for ere ided advan- tage. Their students have merely to leave their rooms and they are in the campus, where they can exercise, or the gymnasium is con- Venien ituuted. Of all the colleges in this country Columbia is the one most in need of improvement in this respect. Situated in the very heart of the city, her students have very little chance of outdoor exercise. She has no ymMNAsiUM. no professor of athletics and pruc- ally no physical training. Considering the disadvantages she labors under im that respect she has done remarkably well in rowing and track athletics. It is in team play, such as foot ball, &c., that her deficiencies are so apparent. What se needs are facilities for her students to tuke exercise and a modern gymnasium, where she can train her young men to hold their own in the competition with other colleges, While some of the gymnasiums of the lead- ing American coll are excellent in many ways, they suffer from two serious drawbacks— the spage allotted for exercise is too small and the apparatus is, in many cases, antiquated and not up to the requirements of modern athletics, It is not necessary to spend a fortune on gym- Basium paraphernalia, Anyone of the col- leges could be thoroughly equipped with the best modern apparatus, including dumb belis, clubs, trapezes, horizontal bars, inclined lad- ders, springboard, flying rings, rowing ma- ebines, vaulting poles, tug of war, pulling machines, for an outlay of trom fifteen han- dred to eighteen hundred dollars, yeu. prob- ably from twelve hundred to fifteen” hundred dollars. But, while this is worth considering, the other drawback is even more important. None have enough room for exercise, At! the | empaineer are too small for the purpose. ¥ Cannot accommodate anything fike' the number of students who would patronize them were they built on a more generous scale. As a matter of fact, the character of the building itself is of secondary consequence. An old barn, provided it be roomy enough, would do just aswell asa more pretentious stractu But the problem of larger buildings is one that involves much heavier expense than that of improved apparatus, and in some of the col- leges the obstacies in the way of getting addi- tional ground might be almost insurmount- ‘THE HARVARD GYMNASIUM. Harvard has the largest gymnasium of any ef the American colleges. It can readily ac- commodate from two hundred and fifty to three hundred students, and is probably the finest of its kind in the world. Its appoiutments were regarded in 1379 as the best and the most per- fect of their kind. Dr. D. A. Sargent is the director of athletics, and his system is what is known as the measuring system. Every man who comes in is measured and tested, and the instructor tells him what kind of exercise he should take in order to bring out‘his fullest development. He makes a study of each sta- dent individually, and adapts the treatment to the physical requirements of the man. Dr. Hite! ‘k of Amherst was the originator of ‘this system, but Dr. ent has elaborated it Very much and successfully. Harvard, in track tics, has been the most successful of col- Jeges, but of late years she has been very deficient in foot ball, base ball. rowing, &c.. showing that while versed in individual train- ing there is something wrong with their system | of teara training. She will have to change her | methods if she means to regain her old prestige. * One of the features of Yale's gymnasium is wrowing tank. It has been a thing of joy to the New Haven college and has contributed Bot a little to its many brilliant victories at the oar. I suggested the adoption of such a tank ears before it was put into actual operation by This was when I was instructor at Princeton and when the New Jersey eollegs had acrew. It is the rowing i t and of the future. Next to getting in a Bost and pulling an oar, it is. the very’ best of ing & winning stroke. But Yale’s machine has one bad defect. It is too YALE'S ROWING TANK, nasium is an old-fashioned build- ing which was erected probably about thirty ears.ago, Dr. Seaver is the professor of at etics and his system is identical with that orig- inated by Dr, Hitchcock. similar to that in use at Harvard. In Yale it is optional with the student whether he take the gymnastic course or not. Yale for some years back has been the most successful college in the country in athletics, eclipsing her rivals in almost every sport. Even though she has been beaten this year I stili regard her as the leading col- lege. Her superiority in the ficld of sports I believe to be due to the intense college feeling that is characteristic of Yale men, the busi- nesé-like way in which they go to work and the thorough coaching of their graduates, En- thusiasm has won victories for Yale again and again. She goes in determined to win. What- ever she goes into she does with her whole heart and soul. Yet she has a very poor gym- nasium and her genera® facilities are insig- nificant and away behind the times, They are good enough for a school, but entirely inade- uate for a university. Yet with all these drawbacks Yale has shown better generalship and more headwork than any college in the country until this year. Her eclipse is only temporary, sich as any college might sustain, and it will force her to still harder and better work in the future, for it is unquestionable that Yale will never rest till she regains her old-time prestige as the leading athletic college in the Union. Princeton's interest in athletics dates from 1968, when she built a gymnasium at consider- able cost. It was considered a marvel of per- fection at that time, but it is now much too small and old-fashioned besides. From the years 1869 till 1385 I held the post of instructor of athletics at Princeton, as I have already stated, and I can therefore speak with some authority of the college that has come to the front in the sport that requires more than all other strength, skill. courage and endurauce. I hear now there is some talk of enlarging the old gymnasium or of building a new one, but the same talk has been going on for years, yet noth- ing has been done. Prof. Turner, the present instructor, is an Englishman, and has adopted what is known as the English military system of gymnasium training. Princeton, as I said, suffers from old-fashioned apparatus, yet the conveniences for ont-of-door exercise are so efficient that they cffset this toa great extent, and this is doubtless one of the main causes of her superiority in the field. Almost every student in Princeton takes an active interest in athletics of some kind. The success of the foot ball team was owing. I think, to the excellent coaching of the graduates, who brought team play to perfection, and also to the magnificent physical condition of each man. through the skiliful training of Mr. James Ko! inson, who certainly deserves This ‘was plainly demonstrated in the games with Harvard and Yale. Princeton men ap- peared to be as strong at the finish as at th commencement of the games, other teams were notably weaker in the second half, This was especially marked in the Hi vard game and was due, I think, to overtr: ing. Princeton, besides the foot ball, holds the lacrosse championship, She also stands an excellent chance of winning the base ball and athletic championships. Yale's INTERIOR OF PRINCETON GYMNASIUM, Amherst hasan excellent gymnasium, and considering the relative size of the colleges, a larger one than Harvard. Dr, Hitchcock, pro- fessor of physiology and anatomy, is the in- structor in athletic His system is to divide his college into cinsses and appoint captains trom the students toleadthem. He has, be- sides. a regular system of physical training for the various classes, each class being graded ac- cording to the physique of its members and al- lotted certain exercise with the dumb bells and other apparatns jn the gymnasium, He takes periodical mea-tirements of the varions classes, but he does not give them special exorcise, as is done at Harvard. An improvement might be made at Amherst by having an expert gymnast as a teacher to carry out Dr. Hitchcock's ideas, A trained athlete can succeed better in getting the men interested in their work. and. besides, young men are not satisfied to be simply strong; they want to be taught how to put their strength skillfully and advantageously to the best use, An expert teacher alone can do this forthem. The students at Amherst are re- quired to take the athletic course and it would be an advantage to have it done under the auspices eee Dr. Hitchcock, jr., is the instructor in athletics at Cornell; he isa son of Dr, Hitchcock of Amherst, and follows the system originated by Prof. Sargent in training the students at Cornell. The gymnasium is a large, plain building and is well equipped with modern apparatus, ; Dr. Hitchcock supplements Sar- gent’s system by a military arill, which is not of much consequence as far ‘as developing athletic skill is concerned. It is optional with the students whether they tuke the military drill or gymnasium course at Cornell. Of late years the college has not distinguished itself in any way that calls for special attention except in rowing. From this time on we may expect to see material improvements in those appointments of our colleges that have reference to phys- ical culture. The spp moral effect of good athletic trainin; a consideration not to be lost sight of and it has been emphasized frequently of late years and is now pretty gen- erally admitted to be one of the most valuable features of college life all over the world. America was slow to recognize this fact, but it has done so at last and it is certain to reap the benefit in the sound-limbed, strong men its in- stitutions of learning are turning out to fight the battles of life with credit to their professors and honor to themselves, Geonce GoLpig. The Utility Woman, From the New York World. Among the 16.000 women enrolled on the books of the New York Exchange for woman's work there are some lah ss members who, in their own genteel way, have undertaken’ to — the field of labor, and, so far as can be earned, are making comfortable livings. - A aay higher than the lady's maid is the fear- less American, who, mane her identity behind a number, is content to referred to as the utility woman. She lives at home, and fora consideration of $15 a week relieves the lady of the house from all responsibility of her young children between the hours of 8 am. and5 p. m. After the little folks have been break fasted she calls to take them to school, and on the way tells them how to walk like a1 ts and breathe like athletes. She calls for them in at the close of the session, gives an airing, with some word pictures on the passing throng. and on reaching home assists Maud or Clarence in pre the next day’s lessons. On Saturday tho has a book-talk. and the poems, stories and prints for the nursery are reviewed. When not otherwise e: she goes through Madame’s visiting list, addresses envelopes and dates the various cards to be issued during the season for dinners, teas and the like, Ifshe has a talent it is her knowledge of bric-a-brac and her ability to Deny furniture effectively. Donning a choris- “ssurplice, she goes through the drawing room and parlors twice a week with a fine ag Sa eel _ eer for cleaning china of e Dresden style, chamois to be used on glass and bronzes, to f desiderat longed for by the wise Spanish Te ay modern, Spbarite—athicted oe ene ea wear as being the Pe Mr. Younghusband (fervently)—“Sweet ‘one, Tean do to add to your hap- whereas the | MEN WHO HATE WORK. Shifts to Which Bummers Resort to Escape from Labor. WHAT TOO DETECTIVES TOLD A STAR REPORTER— HOW THE TRAMPS MIGRATE—SCENES IN A LODGING HOUSE—A STORY OF A NICKEL WHICH SUPPORTED A MAN ALL WINTER. Detectives Horne and Mahon have been at work inan effort to suppress or reduce the num- bers of the class of men known in police parlance as bums. A Stan reporter asked these officers who were the fellows designated by this name. “Why,” said Detective Horne, “they are people who do not believe in work, and I sup pose that it is useless to say that the cowmtry is full of them. Some of them are good thieves, while there are others who would not steal. It is strange that there are so many of these people who are permitted to travel all over this country and without getting jugged very often.” WHAT MAKES ONE OF THEM. “What constitutes one of these fellows?” in- terrupted the reporter. “Nothing,” was the reply. “They are nothing; they know nothing; never do anything. Alla man has to do to join that army of dangerous people is to leave home, change his name, and be willing to cast his lot in any town where the sun shines warm enough to get along without an overcoat. A bum never has an overcoat. because it would be in his way and operate against his chances of success, It’s singular that there are so many young men traveling about the country, as it were, with no aim in life. Some of them start out from home when under fifteen years old and without a cent in their pockets. Some no doubt start for the wild west under the im- fluence of dime literature, while others are born toughs and want to be thieves. There aresome, too, who start out for un easy life merely because theyare lazy. Now and then an honest liboring man may tall in with such people and the in- iluence of bad company soon puts him off the night track and he becomes one of the ‘gang,’ Then he is satistivd and ali travel together, north in summer and south in winter. Nothing in the world can stop their periodic migrations unless they are necessarily detained in some city by the officers of the law. From town to town they wend their wey, sometimes on fieights and sometimes on foot. If the weather is not too chilly they don't mind afew miles’ walk, but then that is a rare exception, When they strike a town the coal dust from the ears is “usually visible on them unless the jump the train out of town aud wasl up tor the occasion. On the outskirts of the towns they can usually manage to get a break- fast, and then toward noon they reach the business portion or down town, as they call it, A free lodging house or a cheap one is selected and down goes their name on the register. hey never expect to remain long in one city, and that’s why they select acheap place.” MANY COME HERE, “Have many of them come here this season?” “Ob, yes; they have been coming for several weeks and in larger numbers than heretofore. Lthink there are more of the free and easy class here now than there has been at any time in many years,” “Where do they spend their time?” repeated the detective, ‘Why, they hang about lumber yards and on the outskirts of the town during the day and at night they turn up on Pennsyl- vania avenue, 7th street and other business streets. Some of them play a good game of bluff by pretending to sell goods of their own manufacture, such as toys and other little rticles, but of course none of them expects | to make a living in that way. They get them- selves up in all sorts of styles in order to make an impression upon the charitable people,from whom they ask assistance. One of their chief games is to use croton oil and appear as a working man who has been scalded in some | factory. All that the case requires is the ex- | penditure of 5 cents for croton oil, which is rubbed on the arm below the elbow and covers a portion of the hand. The oil naturally blisters the skin and gives it the appearance of having been scalded, Vaseline rags are ap- lied and the arm is carried beneath the coat, ut not inside the sleeve. Taking his position in the flaring light beneath a lamp post the ‘bum’ lies in wait for a victim. He doesn't have to wait long for some man witha kind heart. Then tie ‘bum’ thrusts his arm in front of the citizen and braces him for a nickel. The chances are that he will get at least a dime, unless the man is a ‘doubting Thomas,’ and calls upon the disabled one for an explanation. The latter is fully prepared to meet the de- mand, and when he lifts the cloth from his arm the gas light shows up the croton oil wound with wonderful effect and fully convinces the citizen that the poor man is worthy of what he can get. The result is that instead of gettin, adime he gets « quarter ora half dollar an sometimes he gets even more than that, A BOGUS FRACTURE. “Another racket they work successfully,” continued the detective, “is the broken-arm trick. That is played with equally as good if not better luck than the other. They use the splints and tie their arms up so nicely that one is not likely to doubt their pitiful stories. One who resorts to this deception practices it f lessly both day and night, asthe fraud can only be proven by unwrapping the supposed broken member, Some time ago arrested one of these beggars and escorted him to head- juarters. WhenI reached there I sent fora loctor, but the ‘bum’ gave the doctor the bluff. The splints were arranged as_ nicely as though a physician had handled them. ‘If you unwrap this,’ he said to the doctor, ‘and injure my arm, I'll _hold you responsible for the damage done.’ The doctor thereupon declined to undertake the job. Another doc- tor was called in. He spent some time in tak- ing the splints from the arm and making the examination, and at last he discovered that the young man was feigning and then the latter had'a good laugh. During the day and evening many of them go to private houses, ostensibly to beg for food. They never think of ringing a door bell or rapping, but open the door and walk into the hallway. If they are discovered they shove out their tied-up hand or arm and beg for something to eat, but if on the contrary they are not discovered aber snatch something from the hat rack and sneal off. The only thing to do with them is to drive them out of town orsend them to the work house. Itis not easy, however, to drive them from town. Instead of leaving the city they only go to another section of it and there remain until they have either taken a trick or are again arrested, Asingle dose of working on the farm will cure most of them, and if more of them were sent there the city would not be overrun with that class of transient visitors, WHERE THE DIME WENT. “The other evening Detective Mahon and myself,” Mr. Horne continued, “were standing near the junction of 7th and Pennsylvania ave- nue,when one of these fellows came along and asked for assistance. We suspected him, but when he swore he hadn't had a square meal for several days we risked a dime on him, He then went in the direction of an eating house and we continued our journey. We were investi- gating a case at the time, and, to secure some information, we went into a dive down town, After being there several minutes in walked three ‘bums,’ and one of them was the one to whom we had just given a dime, ‘Three stove pipes,’ he shouted, and down on the counter went our dime and some other per- son’s nickel, The three men drank the beer and took seats beside the stove. Within the past few weeks we have caused the arrest of [rer comple of dozen of such fellows, lost of them claimed that they were from some distant point and were looking for work, while others were bold enough to admit that they were out to see the country. They were all searched and there were not as many pennies in the crowd as there were prisoners. Some few were sent the road, while many of them gave their personal bonds to either do better or leave the city. LIVING A WHOLE WINTER ON FIVE CENTS. “Speaking of the ease with which they get along,” said detective Mahon, “we went into one of their retreats the other night to look them over. We took a scat among them, but they did not know who we were, They were tell of their experiences in travelin, the country and how cheap they could even when they didn’t want to beg. who was the pal talk than seventeen years old, although he said hi ee = Rah thee several years. He said: 4 re, my partner was a dan and I guess he lived ar cS ag any mi out west Chicago and he nickel, Well, you can bet ho "t any that winter and he lived well too.’ he described the saloons where big lunches are served to every matter how small his purchase, on the his nickel free customer, no “Well boys’ he went and wat at fie head eeitit=t gefies} ei QUEER THINGS FOR THE TOILET. New and Interesting Facts About Cos- metics and Perfumes. PREPARATIONS THAT WOMEN BUY TO MAKE THEM- SELVES MORE BEAUTIFUL—DANGERS THAT LURE IN WASHES AND POWDERS—DEPILATORIES AND ROUGES—HOW PERFUMES ARE MADE. “The use of washes for the complexion is a rapidly increasing evil,” said a Washington chemist yesterday, ‘‘and my observation is that women in this latitude employ such aids to beauty much more generally than does their sex farther north. An F-street apothecary was telling mo only this morning that he himself sold from #20 to $30 worth of a single such preparation, now enjoying popularity, daily; and this is only one of a large number of creams and balms for the skin kept by him in stock. AsI take my walks abroad in the city my practiced eye tells me that the percentage of women who buy stuff of the sort is surpris- ingly high; you can see for yoursclf that it isso, since the artifice is always perceptible to seru- tiny in a bright light. Those addicted to it do not realize this, putting on the wash as they do indoors. Funnily enough, most of them would think painting dreadtul, if not positively dis reputable, though they see no objection to de~ positing upon their countenances an_ artificial coating of flesh-colored substance, which con- ceals the epidermis and serves the purpose of anenamel. It looks so innocent, like milk in the bottle, and is applied in such’ an unsophis- ticated manner, witha bit of rag. Asa matter of fact, however, the washes, creams and balms are all injurious, while many of them are posi- tively dangerous.” DANGEROUS COSMETICS. “And why?” asked Tue Srar reporter, “Because they are always mude with one or more harmful minerals in large proportion— namely, bismuth, mercury and oxide of zinc. Bisuuth is the favorite ingredient, The efi of using it on the skin persistently isa pa sis of the small veins ou the surface; the lation of the blood through those veins is im- led and their tracery becomes permanently isible in disfiguring little red lines, Mercury is employed in the shape of corrosive sub- limate; you know how injurious that is. It has the effect of a bleach, aad when you see a preparation advertised to remove freckles and tau you may always take it for granted that corrosive suvlimate is its active principle. It is quite effective, so far as the freckles are con- cerned, but being readily absorbed by the skin the mercury causes constitutional derange- ments and often eruptions, Oxide of zine is not so bad, though it fills up the pores and is otherwise harmful; but it does not serve the beantilying purpose so weil as bismuth. All the complexion prettyfiers in the market are nearly alike as to merit and objectionableness. To make any toilet cream a success you must first give it an attractive name, like “Bloom of Youth’ or ‘Sweet Sixteen,’ and then advertise it liberally as being made from altogether harmless ingredients. Then it is sure to go. The most harmtai of such washes are always those which are advertised the most emphatic- ally as quite inocnous, ‘The two most popular, because most widely advertised, creams now in the market are of exceptional destructivencss to beauty. Analysis proves them to contain CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE AND OXIDE OF ZINC in large quantities, with little else besides but almond oil and rose water. Any one of these nostrums can be put up for abont 5 cents a bottle and are sold for an average price of 75 centsa bottle. They are all put on in the same way. he fluid is applied to the face with a rag and, the watery part evaporating, leaves behind on the skin & smooth, powdery coating vhich covers up all ordinary blemishes. A certain amount of coloring matter forms an in- gredient so that the tint shall be a natural fiesh color. I will venture to say that if women realized how much men dislike the ap- pearance produced ashes and how ittie they deccive th would use them leas, But if they must employ them thoy can make for themselves a cream which will be quite as effective for their purpose as any they | can buy in the shops and very much less in- jurious than most of those sold by simply mix- ing together half an ounce of oxide of zine and one drachm of subnitrate of bismuth in six ounces, or a little less than a teacupful, of water. There is one use to which a prepara- tion like this can be applied with my entire approval because it is neccssary—that is asa wash fof the neck and arms in the evening when full dress is to be worn. Without some such thing the skin in the course of the even- ing is apt to become shiny and red.” ROUGE AND DEPILATORIES, “Do many Washington women wear rouge?” *“Not very many I think. Those who do use it employ it in the shape of what is called ‘liquid rouge; but to apply it well is quite an art aud requires no little practice. The trouble with women who rouge is that they get to putting more and more on as years go by. It is said of artiste that sometimes they lose their delicacy of color perception after long years of painting, so that the tints they employ and which appear to them to produce the right effects seem to other people too bright. Perhaps the same proposi- tion may be applicable to the use of rouge. Women very rarely go into an apothecary sho} and buy rouge; as a rule, they write for i ‘The same may be said about depilatories for removing superfluous hair, ‘These depilatories by the way, are always bad, inasmuch as they are invariably composed chiefly of quicklime, which burns the hair and is very likely to scar the skin seriously. Tho manufacturer usually oe this fact in a delicate way to the consumer y saying in the printed directions secompany- ing the bottle that its contents are a ‘purely chemical preparation and must be carefully handled.’ You can make the best sort of liquid rouge at home by mixing half an ounce of strong liquid ammonia with a like quantity of triple esprit de rose and quarter of an ounce of the finest carmine in a pint of rose water. Put the carmine into a pint bottle and pour on the ammonia; let them remain together, shaking the solution occasionally, for two days; then add the rose water and esprit, mix them up well and place the bottle ina quiet spot fora week. At the end of that time your ‘Bloom of Roses’ will be ready for use.” ROWDERS, HARMLESS AND OTHERWISE, “How about powders?” “Some powders are very harmful, while others are not at allso. All the French powders are very bad, because they introduce lead largely as an ingredient. Like the mercury, it is readily absorbed by the skin, to which it soon communicates Lh erro deathlike white- ness, and eventually it is apt to paralyze the muscles of the face and to cause eruptions and blood poisoning. The readiest way to detect the presence of lead in a powder is to heft it; if it very heavy, you may draw your own con- clusion, Bismuth is also used extensively in powders; at a distance it gives the face a blue and ghastly effect. The powders made from prepared chalk, rice and starch are satisfactory enough for ordinary purposes and do no harm, They are only intended to be put on and wiped off again, whereas the French lead and bismuth powders have a Setadege them and fill up the very pores and cell tissue of the cuticle, After two or three applications the clogged skin assumes a speckly look, necessitat- more applications, and so on until the epidermis gets into a thoroughly unhealthy condition and eruptions begin to appear. My opinion is that ladies nowadays bet Arita use any but the harmless powders, w! women of lower ranks in life are much addicted to the in- jurious ones. My apothecary friend told me, the way, that, from merely observing his female customers, he had learned that the use of black and brown pencils for improving the eyebrows and lashes was Pgs common Washington, and from the fact that he sold very few of them he drew the conclusion that the women must get them from the hair dressers, Hair powder, you know, is merel! are wheat starch, I should have’ said tha jtead of water, milk of nuts, particularly almond milk, is used as a basis for many of the more expensive toilet creams, In itself such has a strong likeness to cow's milk.” THE SOURCE OF PERFUMES, “Ts there nothing else you can tell;me that is interesting about tvilet preparations?” “Yoo; there is plenty that is interesting to be told abuut perfumes, In the first place, per- fames have the interest which H ef i 4 fl must refer the de tof his art mainly to the alchemists of long ago, who tortured the plants in every way their invention could de- vise for the sweet scents they gave. They found that the odors of plants resided in dif- ferent parts of them—sometimes in the roots, sometimes in the stems, sometimes in the flowers, sometimes in the seeds and sometimes in the bark. Some plants yield several dis- tinet oders; for instance, the orange tree gives three—from the leaves one called ‘petit grain,” from the flowers neroli, and from the rind of the fruit essential oil of orange, sometimes called essence of Portugal. In nearly all cases the fragrance is due to a_readily-e oil contained iv small vessels or sacs.” SWEET SMELLS BY WOLESALE. “The business of making marketable per- fumes from these oils must be an enormous one,” suggested the Stax writer. “You can guess at the importance of it,” re- pled the chemist, “when I tell you that Eu- rope alone consumes 100,000 gallons of —— and other forms of perfumed spirits annually. Enormous flower farms are cultivated in France for the sole purpose of providing the manufacturing perfumers with the blooms they need. One farmer grows acres and acres of row nother sweet violets, great tields of them; another tuberoses, and so on. One per- fumer of Grasse uses each year 80,000 pounds of orange flowers, 54,000 pounds of rose leaves, 32,000 pounds of violets, 20,000 pounds of tube- roses and of other flowers in proportion. The, manufacturer of perfumes employs several methods for extracting them, depending upon the sort of plant to be treated. For instance, in the case of oranges, it being desired to ob- tuin the essence of Portugal the skins are put into an iron press and sqeezed with an enor- mous force, so that the little vessels contain- ing the essential oil are burst and it thus es- capes through a hole in the bottom of the con- trivance. By another process the flowers from which perfume is to be extracted are laced in purified mutton suct that is ept melted steqn heat and fresh supplies of the blossoms are added at intervals, the old ones being removed each time, this performance being continued from twelve to forty-eight hours, ‘The essential oil in the blooms has an affinity for the grease and passes into it. Tho grease, properly strained, isput up a8 pomade, The process is only used tor making pomade. For colognes the favorite process is calied ‘enfleurago,’ and is conducted in this way: Square frames inches deep, with glass bottoms, are spread with a layer of mutton suet half an inch thick, and in this the flower buds are stuck, down- ward, covering the surface completely, The frames are piled in stacks and the flowers changed every few hours for as many weeks as the blossoms are blooming. Finally the grease is soaked in alcoho! for a month, and, having a greater affinity for sprite than grease, it passes out of the grease and into the alcohol, which, when strained, is the cologne of commerce.” ATTAR OF ROSES AND ROSEWATER. “How is attar of roses made?” “It is procured by simply distilling roses with water. The most extensive rose farms in the world, cultivated for the attar, are in Tur- key and in Ghazepore, India. The cropof rose attar yielded by the Turkish farms in a year frequently reaches 75,000 ounces, 2.000 rose blooms yielding one drachm of the attar. The pure attar of roses is exceedingly offensive to the smell; it is only when it is very much di- luted that its fragrance becomes so incompar- ably delicious. The same may be said of violet, heliotrope and other concentrated essences, In England roses are largely cultivated to make rose water. In the season when they bloom they are gathered as soon as the dew is off and sent to town in sacks to be pickled. For this purpose the leaves are separated from the stalks and to every bushel of flowers a pound of com- mon salt is thoroughly rubbed in. The salt absorbs the water from the petals and becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty mass, ‘which, stowed away in casks, will keep indefi- for distilling into rose water at n future time, But the rose water imported from France, which is a residnary product of the dis- tillation of roses for attar, is much better. The greatest violet farms of the world are in the neighborhood of Nice, Grasse and Florence.” SANDAL-WOOD AND AMBERGRIS. “Sandal-wood is one of the most ancient of vegetable perfumes, is it not?” “Yes, though its correct name is santal-wood. It used to grow very plentifally in China, but the natives have burned it to such an extent for centuries past for incense, in their worship of Buddha, that it has been almost rendered extinct in the celestial empire. Now it is ex- tensively cultivated for the Chinese market in the Santal-wood Islands. The attar of santal- wood is procured by distillation, 100 pounds of wood yielding 30 ounces of attar, The de- structive white ant of Indiaand China, which eats nearly everything save metals, will not touch snutel-wood, and that is the eceson why one sees it made into so many caskets, boxea and such things that come from Asia, Amber- gris is another old favorite with the perfumers, though wees seems to care about it any more. It has been commonly supposed to be of vegetable origin, though in reality it is secretion caused by a disease of the whale; it is found floating on the sea. Smelling salts seem to have become the latest fashionable affectation, Half the healthy women one sees carry emelling bottles, which have recently ap- peared in all sorte of fanciful shapes, some even being made in such a form as to fit the palm of the hand under the glove. Such salts are cither prepared by filling the vinaigrette with sponge scraps and pouring in as much ammonia us they will soak up, with two or three drops of this or that attar to give flavor, or carbonate of ammonia in crystals with a per- fuming attar is employed. Lavender attar is the latest fashionable flavor.” oo —____ HOW TO DRESS CHILDREN. Make Them Comfortable as Well as Pic- i turesque—Gowns for Girls. From the New York Sun. The tendency of modern English mothers is tostrive for hygienic as well as picturesque effects in children’s dress, Kilta for small boys are made of self-colored serge or cashmere rather than the tartans. A gray suitof this kind is stylish fastened with oblong silver but- tons engraved with a Scotch thistle. Sailor suits are still universally popular, and were worn by the little sons of the German emperor at a recent royal wedding. They were in white serge, with light blue silk trim- mings, relieved with rows of narrow white braid. The jackets were of silk, and had broad serge collars trimmed with silk and braid. A recent addition to the wardrobe of the baby king of Spain was of heavy cream white corded silk, deeply trimmed with guipure lace and closed with carved ‘l buttons, ‘A novelty for small boys just leaving the ig- reap? of petticoats and not quite old enough for the dignity of knickerbockers is the so- called transition suit of white serge, with trimmings of blue silk and braid, or of dark blue serge with scarlet decorations, Boys’ overcoats should measure about two feet in length and are made of the softest fluffy cloth, with buttons of more sppalling dimensions than men ever wear, and which are almost as it a source of delight as the nu- merous pockets which must be supplied in a i a aan dress the: tiny pages’ ‘or ies there aro suits of fa velvet with a miniature waistcoat of the last ce: in satin or bro- cade, and quaint costumes in white cloth with trousers and short jacket braided hussar fash- — or white cord. very light and bright in ite wit warm jant and of gray silk cord, soft vicuna, or natural astra- feory’ =e = and ay he — favorite coat for the playgroun: green cl oer oto ee eae cent a Cal shoulders and chest, but not restr the freedom of the arms, which are with bonind me banal have Beg place, ret phoned a for very children, to soft felt with enormous poke brims in front and none on the back, heavy with plumes, Rough beaver hats are worn with the hair coats HAVE YOU A DOUBLE CHIN? | TOMMY LOVED GOOD BOOKS. If So, Be Proud of It, As It Indicates Strong Character. From the London Standard. The great justification of the double chin rests, of course, on its unrivaled value as an index of character—and such a character! It is really nature's patent with nobility, This was long ago discerned by the great master of physiognomy. It is not difficult to divine what Lavater thonght of a double chin. He care- fully points out that man differs from the ani- mals chiefly by his chin, laying it downas an axiom that the chin is the distinctive charac- teristic of humanity; consequently double- chinned people are doubly differentiated from the beasts that perish, which is greatly to their credit, He expressly takos for his model of “the thinker, full of sagacity and penetra- tion,” a man with a fleshy double chin, coupled with a nose rounded at the end. The por- traithe gives is even better than the letter ress, as the gentleman is limned with at least ve chins, so that his lower jaw was a vista of magnificent distances, like Washington. This happy physiognomy of the double chin, coupled with the rounded nose, characterizes, he tells us, the mind which can rise to heights, and which follows its designs with reflecting firm- ness, unalloyed by obstinacy. Let, therefore, those with double chins rejoice, whether they possess rounded noses or not, and quote Lav- ater in gratitude. He gives again another ex- — of the double mention, and the face so endowed, he says, enthusiastically, is reason's own image, He quite revels in this feature, He takes an example of Raphael, with a beau- tifully rounded double chin; and, in criticising it, he acknowledges that the profile is wanting in truth, harmony and grace; but, then, asks he, how is it it 60 strongly takes captive our sympathy? Where lies the illusion? Merely in the chin, he answers; and as the chin isa double one the matter is no longer a mys- tery. He points triumphantly to Cicero's magnificent double chin, and in a burst of eloquence says of Wren’s that, if you can find a man with (among other things) such a chin as that, without being gifted with some extraordi- nary talent, he renounces forever the science of physiognomy. What Lavater has thus laid down experience amply corroborates, The double chinned, therefore, should hold their heads up higher, in the consciousness of modest merit, and give free play and just prominence to their certificates of character. It is, as hinted above, rathor difficult at present to tell who is endowed and who is not, Portrait inters are craven enough to dissimulate a louble chin; they leave it to a caricaturist, who seems to think it great fun for a popular statesman or poet to have two chins, whereas those appendages are the secret of their suc- cess, Some of our more observant writers have got a glimpse of the truth Wilkie Collins, for instance. He very properly credits Count Fosco, the man of daring, resource and determination, with a double chin, to which Fosco’s pet cockatoo public attention by rubbing its head against it in the most appreci- ative manner possible. But your ordinary nov- elist would never have thought of that, “As an Englishman, by the way, one naturally tarns to Shakespeare to see whether his appearance corroborates Lavater's views. Shakespeare un- doubtedly forsesaw the point, as he foresaw everything else, but he was sufficiently artful to wear just enough beard to place it in eternal doubt whether he hada double chin or not. ‘Thus he leaves it open to all parties, single chinued or double. to quote him as an instance of anything they like, which, after all, is the great use which Shakespeare has always been put to, OYSTERS ON TREES, Bunches of Bivalves Growing on Green Limbs in Honduras. From Forest and Stream, Business recently called me to Honduras and T have just now returned well pleased with my trip. I had often heard of oysters growing on the trunks and branches of trees—groves of liv- ing green umbrageous trees, with oysters grow- ing upon them--and my friend and I set aside the day to investigate the fact. Our dory cut the water like a knife and slipped along rapidly and easily, with hardly a ripple in her wake, and in about half an hour we had left the sight of the town, with its convent and shipping and soldiers’ barracks, behind us. We were then nearly abreast of an island called Moho Cave. The front of it is embowered in graceful cocoanut trees and the back part trends off into swamp and is covered with a dense gre wth of the red mangrove. This mangrove tree grows in either fresh or salt water swamps and even in water three or four feet deep. The limbs of the trees send shoots or roots down into the water, aud thus a thicket of man- groves isa matted mass of trunks and limbs and roots. On these trunks and limbs and roots, deep down under the surface of the water, cling bunches of single oysters, and thus are formed the oyster groves I had heard of, The leaves of these trees are of a beauti- fal dark green, and the swamp islands from a distance look like fairy bowers. We poled our dory around to the south of the island, but could not get very near, as we were scraping bottom all the time. We passed over numerous oyster beds while doing so, and with an ordinary rake which had been provided we hauled aboard a lot of the oysters, They were small and flat, and the shell looked more like a flat clam than an oyster. But the inside tasted all right, and our boatman swallowed thatdown with a relish. I did not care much for them myself, except as curiosities, for the mud that stuck to them did not smell appetizing. ——se0 Fashions for Men. From the Clothier and Furnisher. There is absolutely nothing new in trousers, either in shape or pattern. They are cutina reasonably loose width, and the quiet herring- bone combination still have the call. Double-breasted sack suits in solid colors and mixtures and in round cutaway from the lower buttons and the straight-abouts are all in high favor. There is a increasing demand for men’s waterproof garments, the big enveloping cape Goats balan the most sought for. What could be a more acceptable holiday gift to a man who does not one of these useful top coats? ‘A gentleman without ono of tho laivet paja- mas or night robes on cannot be in gala retire, The tendency is growing toward the ticable | scarfs; knowledge of the various folks is being diffused, and the buyers arc showing an inclina- tion for better and higher priced goods. The make up neckwear partakes of the cur- rent artistic evolution and the big puff scarfs are bigger and handsomer than ever. . A boom in scarf pins hasset in at this particu- larly festal time of the year, Now, too, is the harvest time for the strictly aH species of cane and umbrella, The line in th Paseo branches grows auspiciously showier about the first of November. In walking gloves the craven tan are yet Sut are no it as was season. A lighter shade of tanisamore pliable skin, and with white stitching upon the back seams appears to be the coming vogue for daytime Tr. of dogskin, 80 it may be expeditiously gotten off on. The very latest styles in neckwear are the —. scant as | plied the bi lington upon themes are worked on in beautiful colorings, and the dimensions of the piece of texture be- eee inches in width by sixty incl if q He : z E i ef? | F zs i His Father Was Open to Argument and the Museum Was Henefited Accordingly. From the New York Tribune. “Say, pa,” said Tommy, “did you ever read a bookcalled “The Duties Children Owe to “No, Tommy,” answered his father. “I 40 not think that Ihave ever read it; fram the title I should think it was a good book, though. Why do you ask?” “O, nothin’ mach,” said ‘Tommy, “only Miss Handsome, the mistress: of the echool where Fou took me, said it was a good book, which she hoped every boy in the school would read.” “You may have it somo time,” said his father as he settled himself comfortably in his chair, og 4 50-cent cigar and “ur | to his news- per. “Say, pa,” said Tommy again after a few minutes” silence, iss Handsome has been Rood to me lately, an’ yesterday she told me all about you.” “Is that so, Tommy?” (becoming interested.) “Yes, she said th: when you Wasa boy you had to work a good deal harder ‘n most boys do nowadays, an’ that you never had any of the advantages of education like I have, an’ then she asked me if I = bow much I owed to you, au’ I said, ‘You bet I do; ['ve got the best pa in seventeen counties’ (at this Tommy's father looked sharply at his son, but Tommy never winked), ‘an’ then she kinder clasped her hands an’ said, ‘An’ Tommy, just think what a fine, young looking man your father is, even after all he has gone through,’ an’ I said yes, an’ I guessed "twas because you thought #0 much of ma before she died that you never went out mghts to the c! but jus’ stay home, an’ she said she guossed that must the reason, an’ then she had a kind of far-awap look in her eyes an’ she said jus’ quietly to her- self, ‘I wondor what the future wall bring?’ an’ then. after a little while, she «aid to me: ‘An’ Tommy, your pa thinks too much of his boy to make him work like he did when he was a boy, but he buys books for him so’s he can learn from them what he had to leara by experience,” an’ I said, ‘ves, you always bought me all the books you thought was good for me, an’ she said to let her know when I had read the book an’ I'said I would, an’ then she jus’ put her arms around me an’ kissed me, an’ pa, it's nice to be kissed by a nice woman like Miss Hand- some, an’— “How much did you say the book would cost Tommy?” “A dollar-an’-a-half (quickly), an’'—" “Here's the money, Tommy (kindly), and now run along and let mo read my paper for a little while.” ee said Tommy, as he moved toward the door. Then he reached the strect at a bound and shied around the corner, where & boy about his same was standing. “Hi, Jimmy,” he called out, “I got nuff from Pop for two reserve seats down to the museum an’ more'n nuff to pay car fare and buy cigarettes besides!” soo — NEW NATURAL HISTORY. The Turtle—Its Habits, Attachments and Characteristics Defined. From the Philadelphia Tunes, In good old days before the great Christo- pher braved the unknown sca in quest of equally unknown things the word turtle always meant a bird, the kind we now calla turtle dove; and it was not until after the discovery of America that the appellation was applied to those marine chelomans found in the West In- dies, The turtle dove in outward appearance has very little to remind one of his namesake, the sen turtle, but in mental characteristics they are very much alike. It was due to the discovery of the quality of constancy in the general make-up of the sea turtle and his dispo- sition to hold fast to whatever he got that in- duced the sailors to give him the pretty name of turtle. ‘The turtle is an amphibian and the scientiste tell us that he is nothing but a reptile after all, but you shouldn't think of it when you are eating turtle soup or it might have a damaging effect on your appetite. The turtle has no teeth, yet he can hold on with a grip that no brindle bull dog has ever been able to successfully copy. The turtle can't talk and make stamp speeches or give Caudle lectures, but he manages to live all the sume, and his life is a pretty long one if the accounts of cer- tain navigators be true. It is related on good authority that several large turtles are to be seen daily swimming around among the Ba- hama Islands that have huge shells decorated with the initials *C.C., 1492,” evidently en- ——— on them by Christopher Columbus and is men during their little visit to San Salva- dor in 1492, Turtles may truly be said to be living skele- tons, for they have nearly allof their bones exposed to view on the outside of their bodies and it is a great blessing to them that they are built that way, especially during tho mosquito season. The turtle looks like a for- midable and very substantial auimal, but on a close examination you find him to be but the merest sheil, yet he is greatly prized by cor- tain aldermen at state dinners and epicures are willing to shell out handsomely to obtain him. es do not drink bad whisky, chew tobacco or smoke a pipe, yet a great many of them, not having been enervated by civili: could shell a town, but it seems our g have never thought to use them that way, The turtle is not much like other animals except that he has four feet and a tail, but his tail, like that of a rabbit, doesn't count for much. He is supposed to have ordinary common sense, but he is not astute enough to prevent his getting “in the soup” sometimes, Generally speaking, the turtle is rather an indifferent bind of a cook. le can’t make bread, ico cre. m, bake pies or properly roast a turkey, but he ‘makes @ good soup. His culinary skill in making that latter dish particularly “has never been disputed. Some French cooks and other inferior chefs have made abase imitation of this famous soup called mock turtle soup, but it alwa takes a genuine turtle to make genuine turtle soup. The character the average turtle acquires while growing up he manages to retain all through life, which is more than some of us bipeds can boast of. ao An Organ Operated by Electricity. From the New York Sun. What is said to be the largest organ in tho world is building at the Roosevelt organ works in this city for the auditorium building, Chi cago, It will be operated by electricity. Ele trie motors are now used for pumping the or- gan in eight churches in New York city, at a cost of #10 per month per horse power, The water motor consumed too much water and the Gas engine was too noixy. — coe An Ingenious Conundrum, Frora the Montrose Kepublicaa. Why is a newspaper like a pretty girl? Tobe perfect it must be the embodiment of many types, its form is made up, it is chased, though inclined to be giddy, it enjoys a good press, the more rapid the better, has a weakness for gos- sip, talks a deal, it can stand some praisc, and is awful proud of a mw It cannoi ths be kept in good hamor w out cash, Terms Used by Dressmakers. From the Ladies’ Home Journal. Some of the phrases uscd in dressmaking are perfect Greek to the unknowing, so I add « short list of the words and their meanings, Au apron is any sort of a draped skirt front; a full back means a straight buck to the skirt gath- ered in two or more rows at the top; a panel is astraight piece for the frout or sides, set in between a trimming of some kind to convey the idea of an iniay; a Spanish flounce is one reaching from the knees down, and gathered to form an erect ruftle. Knife pleats are — narrow side pleats, and accordion pleats are stil narrower and pressed in shape by machinery; kilt pleats are those turned one way, and box leats have a fold to the right side and one to the left; double and triple box pleats have two or three folds on wither, sides 0 “kilt” means 2 skirt entirely of it ta. “drop rn Fal mae up independent lining, and then hung or dropped over one of the dress material the in the midst of extensive grounds, with band- and beautiful flowers and least, i ! | if i i : | i Hi i i : i HE E 8 gE i FEE i i He f *