Evening Star Newspaper, September 28, 1889, Page 7

OUR NEXT DOOR NEIGHBORS. THE HOME OF EVANGELINE. How the Tide Comes in at the Bay of Fundy. —_o—. 8 THE SHORES OF THE BASIN OF MINAS—TEE GHOST OF THE ZXPELLED FRENCHMAN—ACA- DIAN DYKES, ACADIAN WILLOWS AND & NOVA SCOTIAN LULL—THE CONTINENT’ FOG FACTORY. ————__ Special Correspondence of Tax Evento Star. Steamer Acapia, Mrvas Bastx, Nova Scotts. VANGELINE, that 1ll- fated young French wo- man whom Longfellow kills and buries in dac- tylie hexameters, is te distingnished personage of Nova Scotia. The French are amusingly revenged upon their English conquerors in Britisb North America. In Quebec, though nominally dependent, they rewain and prevail. To Nova Scotia, from which they were ex- pelled, they supply historic and poetic interest, the tupics of the guide-books and the main at- tractions for tourists. Indeed, English Nova Scotia is notable principally as occupying the site of French Acadie. The living, prevailing Frenchman attracts in Quebee; the ghost of the expelled Frenchman is the most interest- ing personage of Nova Scotia. The American tourist seeks the valleys of Windsor and Annapolis on the shores of the of Minas, where the Acadinns dwelt, and, with the poem of Evangeline as a guide book, Fausacks the country for relics of the French occupation. The historian and the poet say that im 1796 the French lived in these happy valleys in a condition of ideal bliss, luxuriating in fine rops, cattle and poultry, in early marriages, im the absence of paupers and law suits, in lenty of eating epples, in contented disposi, | ase phal an pi sed of “beer and cyder.” But Acadie had passed under the coutrol of the British, who were still at war with other Frenchmen in North America, andthe Acadians were suspected of rendering aid and comfort to the latter. The Acadian realization of the dreams of the golden age was therefore rudely interrupted. British arnied forces bundled the French owners out of the country and tarned over their property to faithful subjects of the crown, Evangeline was among the scat- tered Acadians, and after the expulsion she spent the rest of her life in a search for her lover, Gabriel. This yc man's conduct was culiar and exasperating. While his sweet- | some peate energetically bunting for him over thousands of miles of territory he remained Tumpishly in Louisiana doing the yearning and the waiting and the whining until, as Longfel- low poetically words it, he became “tedious to men and to maidens,” or as we express it in ose, until he made everybody tired. And fe as Evangeline had almost cornered be moved listiessly out of the way, upon the pretext of some irrelevant bunt- ing expedition and never came back. He was asiow youth and drifted naturally to a cou- genial resting place in Philad~lphia, where he accomplished in the almshouse a lingering death to slow (hexameter) music. It is proper to give some space to Evangeline’s affcir: | . eel have said. she is the central | Sigure of interest in Nova Scotia. Judge Hali- | burton, better known in America as “Sam | Slick,” is, perhaps, second among the local Botabilities. THE HOME OF EVANGELINE, Evangeline lived at Grand Pré, so we bought tickets for the station of that name on the | Windsor and Annapolis railroad, and landed when the conductor called ‘Gran’ Perree!” “Tp the Acadian laud om the shores of the basin of Piptaut, secluded, still, the little village of Grand- ‘Lay in the fruitful valley.” The modern Grand Pré is just as quiet and wecluded as that of Acadie. Only a few widely Separated houses were seen preliminary survey of the land from the station. The fruit- ful valley lay before us, some orchards of bard and bitter winter apples supplving the fruit. The railroad seems t» ran through the Acadian farm of the late Mr. Bellefontaine, Evangeline’s esteemed father; for we were now near to the basin and the dyke meadows, and our poetic | —— locates Evangeline’s home as fol- “Somewhat apart from the village, and nearer the | Dasin of Minas, Benedict Beilcfontaine, the wealthiest farmer of Grand Dweit in bis goodly acres.” We turned our faces toward the basin and walked through the fields in which Evangeline played, or, later, promenaded with Gabricl. A Fow of misshapen, venerable willows ts the most notable among the unmistakable relics of the French occupation. We climbed over, through and under « fence. respectively, to get to the willows. and played the part of vandais, pocketing pieces of the bark as mementocs. ‘ben .we examined the remains of an old French well (alleged) in the same field, aud | ap oe iueffectually at the handle of the rot- g Pump whieh is now placed over it. e are ready to believe that the well is the same which is described by our guide book, Whose waters Evangeline has tasted. “Further down on the slope of the hill was the well, Ncket tantenod with tron, and near it a trourh for | We had further and less agreeable evidence that we had stack Mr. Beilefontaine's place. | The poet describing Evangeline’s father’s berd ~, “Pawing the ground they came * * * And with tueir nostrils distended” Even as we were experimenting with Evange- line's well, curious to asceriain whether its | water was as ancient tu the taste us to the | smell, these pawing, tail-ewitching Bellefon- taine cattle bore down upon us. We retired expeditiously to our willows, the ladies doing themselves great credit as sprinters. Feeling sure that Evangeline must have utilized these frees in giddy youth. we climbed their twisted | trunks and iow branches and arranged our- selves in easy Evangelinistic attitudes. at we did not retain them long. for the nostril-dis- tended cattle aforesaid, which had routed us from the well. showed a disposition to take Posreasion of the entire f-id, aud a big-horned ail came charging toward us, ‘THE VIEW AT GRAND Pri We left at once, climbing over, under and through the fence as before, but combining the three methods of progression and passage more ly and carelessly than in our en- ance. The notable features of the field into which we thus rapidly removed ourselves were | supposed traces of some old French cellars. AWe couid now look across the dyke meadows ‘to the Vy ad of the water in Minas basin. Por- tious of the French dykes, bearing testimony to their strength of build and durability of ma- terial, are still to be found, but the working dykes are of comparatively recent construc- tion. They have been built since a great tidal wave and flood about twenty years ago. Our landiord at Wolfvilie, the town next to Grand Pré, gives a graphic desori The dyke system, excellent a. where Gasperea mhere tlers to be oped certain facts which caused this sudden CURIOUS FEATURES OF MIXAS BASIN. The basin of Minas is an arm of the bay of Fundy. At its mouth Cape Blomidon pushes far td the nerth and contracts the opening to narrow strait. The be ahem 4 tides, the highest in the world, rising from 60 to 90 feet, come tumbling through this opening and vastly increase the water area of the At low tide there is a broad strip of mud or wet beach encircling the whole basin. At high tide the mad fa covered with « navigable ith of water and small vessels dart in and out, The villages on the south shore of the basin are seaport towns for « few houce of each day, and for the rest of the time their wharves look out be a monotonous stretch of mud, in which ships may be imbedded. The action of the wonderful tides of this region is an unfailing subject of curiosity and interest to the #| » and thereby bangs a tale—the tale of our trip by steamer over the basin of Minas in soareh of the tidal wave from the bay of Fundy. Our guide book said on this subject: “In baste t Fled away frou the shares sud left the Line of the sand Covered with waife of the tide, with Kelp and alippery Back Yo its nethermost caves retrested the bellowing Dregging adown the beath the rattling pebbles and Inland ad far up the shore the stranded boats of the lors," The ladies of our party reasoned that if the ocean in going down left hastily, and all at once, and accompanied the performance witha bellow, it would remap @ go ogg, milar procedure in coming back again. The notion they derived, I believe, of the bay of Fundy tidal wave was that of a wall of water 60 feet high that came bellowing up the beach like a ‘buil of Bashan or of Grand Pré and filled the eye like the flood at Johnstown, und an un- quenchable curiosity to gaze on this marvel took possession of them. Like the hunters of the snark: “They sought it with thimbles, they sought it with care; They pursued it with forks and hope.” And never since the time of the snark hunt has there been. I believe, a desperate search so much resembling it as our QUEST OF THE GREAT TIDAL WAVE. The dribbling in of the tide over the miles of nearly level mud beach in front of Grand Pré, Wolfville and neighboring villages on the south shore of the basin of Minas was not atali what they desired and expected. The tination of our trip was the precipitous shore of Cape Biomidon, or of the land on the other side of the basin, or the narrow opening through which the bay of Fundy pushed its waters into the basin of Minas, DYKE MEADOWS, BLOMIDON AND MINAS BASIN. Our expedition began at Hantsport, one of the basin’s south shore twice-a-day | seaports, where we left the railroad train in light marching order to take | 4 small steamer which was advertised to run at | high tide to Parrsboro, on the other side of the basin. We found our steamer, the Hiawatha, | resting on the dry beach at the end of its wharf. The water line was some distance out, but creeping steadily nearer. A number of other vessels oc ied what a Washingtonian would be tempted to call the Minas or Hants- port flats. The only other indication of activity in Hantsport was the skeleton of a wooden ship in course of construction. Simi- lar skeletons were seen at the other Minas vil- lages. But the once flourishing industry of ship-buildmg has shrunk almost to nothi since the decadence of the wooden ship an the decay of trade with the United States under the Dominion policy of protection, We de- scended into the Hiawatha from the wharf by means of @ steep ladder and very soon climbed back again. A search for information devel- retreat. We could allow only two days for the tidal-wave trip. It would be necessary to cross the basin at high tide of one day and return at @ time which would enable the steamer to run inte the temporary seaports on the south shore at high tide on the next day, The ladies failed to discover in this prospect any*opportunity to observe their monster wave, so we scrambled up the ladder, with the intention of going by lomidon isiting the cape the next morning at high tide by means of a car- riage. Thus fate turned our steps toward THE ACADIA, A MICROSCOPIC STEAMER, which we discovered after some search hidden in the mud bebind one of the wharves. The Hiawatha is small, but she is so large that she is compelled to run straight across the basin at high tide, and can waste no time in visiting on the way. The Acadia, however, can float and run in a moistened gutter, and therefore skirts the whole south shore of the basin, stopping at the various villages, before she crosses to the north shore. She is manned by three men. ‘The captain is the Pooh Bub of the ship, serving also as pilot, purser and deck hand’ As we were about to descend into the Acadia the consolidated captaim and crew aforesaid re- us to wait a few minutes. We discovered that Hantsport dock can get up a strike as well as the docks at Lon- don, It seems that the Hiawatba and the Acadia, the ouly steamers on the basin, bel to the same owners, and the engineer of one of them had just begun an obstinate and de- termined strike. Unless an amicable settle- went could be effected only one of the steamers could inake its trip, and we ined save ourselves the d it into the Acadia until we were sure that she would leave the wharf. The officers and crews of the Hia dozen persons, grthered in an excited group ov the wharfand discussed the matter frem every point of view with a number of Hants- porters as an interested audience, until the water began to and she gave a wriggle pre- limivary to floating. Then it was decided to hold the Hiawatha and send out the Acadia, a decision which I suspect was somewhat in- flucuced by the fact that our party three paying passengers for the Acad: fares would be lost if she failed to make the trip. So we emburked and the Acadia steamed away from Hantsport over the flats, with many puitings and several hair-raising blasts from fog-born whistle, the sound from whien is many thousand times larger than the Acadia itself. We took possession of the steamer’s pilot house, and the captain pointed out to us the objects of interest as we skirted the dyke meadows, passed the Gaspereau’s mouth, the scene of the embarkation of the Acadians, and twisted up a narrow, crooked channel through the flats to the wharfat Wolfville. At this point the steamer took on four or five addi- tional passengers and assumed the appearance of an overcrowded excursion boat, After div- ing in and out of several similar seaports we approached the one at which we were to leave ¢ steamer to make the laud trip to Blomidon, Our conversation in the pilot house had placed us on excellent terms with the captain, and st this juncture he upsct our plans and caused us to hold another council of war by ur, tha | protective and Acadia, to the number of at least a half | Finally shaking itself loose from Blomidon the steamer fed the narrowest of the basin to the noriivshore and to Parteidge isso first, because Ne SUOM THING a6 4 PARTRIDOR geological speci- of great interest are found. Following the curve of this beach we soon found ves the cliffs of a ingore which here yoshes out tate the basin. Lea = sg ladies eollest lima by a cireuitous ie gl a of Fig romentory and enjo; a fine view La he seaward and mae precipitous side of the cliff, The junction of the basin of Minas and the of Fundy, outlined by Capes Sharp and rg before as, and pola lh the basin frown- ing Blomidon simed at me its forest guns. The tide was now low and we were able to explore the beach on both sides of the eliff. It was interesting to walk close to the foot of the per- pendicular rocks, where only a short time ago big waves were and to gather waits from the sea, shells and weeds, amethysts, acadialyte and other "lyt@, The best speci- mens of amethysts are found on the opposite shore at Cape Blomidon, but there was euough of geological material to be found at Partridge Island. We collected something less than a ton of specimens, so that our trunks henceforth ame the sources of temporary suspicion and joyful expectation to customs officers and of un- varied bitterness of spirit to porters along our homeward route, These specimens, with the willow bark from Gzand Pre, are our only per- manent reminders of Nova Scotia, Our efforts to obtain as a characteristic souvenir a blue- nosed image made of codfish scales was unsuc- cessful, and we had no facilities for the eon- venient conveyance of a chunk of the fog. THE ACADIA AT LOW TIDE. It was now low tide, and we walked on the beach out to the end of the pier where the Aca- dia stood on firm ground at the foot of a wall of logs fifty-five feet high, covered with moss and matted sea-weed. The Acadia passes a curious existence, It is amphibious. It lives for a few hours of each day in and on the water, and for the rest of the time it dwells on dry land. Its career is one of vicissitudes. It has all the ups and downs of the life of an ele- vator boy. At low tide it is helplessly stranded at the footof # sixty-foot pier; at high tide it has risen sixty feet or thereabouts and is tug- sing at ropes holding it to the top of the pier. fine ludies, the hunters of the tida! wave, arose at2o'clock in the morning to see high tide. They affirm that the water washed over the top of the pier, and ina general way that it was magnificent, Whether it came with a bellow or sf Jobustown flood deponents say not. Their silenee suggests that this tide rose very much like any other tide, and gives the same sort of inconsequential ending to our quest of the monster wave that characterized the hunting of the snark. WHERE FOGS ARE MADE, The great drawback to Partridge Island as a popular summer resort is probably the fog, which settled down upon everything, o struct- ing the view and mating the atmosphere damp ani uncomfortable, not long before we steamed away on the Acadia for our return trip, ‘The bay of Fuuds is as notorious for its fog as for tides, Its fog is rather thicker than, but not | so warm as, a blanket, This is the greatest fox- factory on the continent. It runs nignt and day in the manufacture of the articlo and there bas never been @ strike to interfere with its operations, It is denied that this fog can chm over or get around Biomidon to the south shore Acadian villages. Longfellow says: “Aloft on the mountains Ses-fors pitched thelr tents, sud misis from the mighty Auiantic * Looked the happy , but ne'er from their pK Rae The modern successors to the Acadians make similar statements, If this be true, the south shore in immunity from fog has one strong re- commendation to counterbalance the attrac- tions of Partridge Island and the north shore. THE AGADIA AT HIGH TIDE, There are some notable differences between the ancient and modern Acadians, The con- tented dwellers in the happy valley knew nothing of discord or complaints, The discon- solate wailing was confined to the elements, —— its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neigh ring ocean Speaks, ‘sud in secents @sconsolate suswers the wail of the forest.” The new Acadians do their own growling, and do it with enthusiasm; and Boston is pre- ferred to Acadie, no longer the happy valley. Their main gri ce the union of Nova Scotia to the Dominion, with the nece: re- sult of the adoption by her of the Dominion’s licy, which has worked disastrous results in destroying a large part ot the former profitable trade with New England. Commer- cially the maritime proviness are naturally in cloge relations with New England, much closer than with the inland provinces which govern the revenue policy of the Dominion. It is con- sequently in the maritime provinces that the nearest approack to A SENTIMENT FAVORABLE TO ANNEXATION to the United States is to be discovered. Their present annexation talk, however, is based largely upon the prospect of commercial advantages not to be otherwise obtained. If free trade with the United States could be had very few indeed would give a second thought to the question of political union at this time, ‘There is no immediate prospect of the pence. able annexation of Canada or any part of it to Quebes the the United States, In Ontario ani average citizen thinks little of the subject. “Annexationist” is there a term of reproach, The French of Quebec are the strongest in op- position to every suggestion of annexation, As state in the Union Quebec fears that it would not be able to retain an established church, the use of the French as the official language, Fronch law, and its present importance as the balance of power in Dominion politics. Annexation by violence is in the piged de- ree improbable, though some of the Cana- Sises frighten themselves with this bi The republic will have no unwilling citizens; no reluctant states. Indeed, those who are ready and anxious for admission to statehood cross the basin to a plac the very edge of the water, and that the ladies could see the tide come in from the windows of their rooms in the middle of possibly wait until we bad crossed the basin be- fore getting some to eat was brushed aside by bis Lager yen us with a lunch. ‘This argument the day. The Acadia into it, antil it weemed to well have lunched were hungry and ate the pyek mech, and ve bale Seem mm and full citizenship have not found it in the northwestern territories an easy to secure annexation by the most persistent effort. THE FUTURE OF CANADA, The narrow strtp of settled territory along the northern edge of the republic should natu- rally, however, in the course of time be united with it, Sofaras nearly all of this strip is concerned annexation would be of advantage to would, their people character of states or outa jar. The republic could easily them and enjoy its meal. The case a lem. Would the prov- would it repu! nationality and national pride fuses to extent diverse races. In Canada, where ae rye pees spirit of uationality can be sait to Serr Feoiatinn ot race and religion is kept alive and fostered. proud thoughts of the French Canadian turn to Paris, The pride of the English Cana- dian is in London. The thoughtful and sensi- tive native Cavadian not of French descent finds no place to which he can turn for the enjoyment of pride of nationality. He is by birth en American, but that name and all the modera his' of his continent and an intense aationality aud national pride belong to the people of the great republic to the south of him, with whom his interests and largely his sympathies lie, but with whom he may not unite politically without ogres He feels that be is alienated from the tendencies and aspirations of the continent of his birth; that he is merely a tgs oar colonist,a species of litical outcast, the man without a coun- , or a citizen of the District of Columbia, Some change will surely happen in Canada, Either the colonies will receive through a fed- eration seheme representation in the councils of the British empire, and Canada will thus be drawn closer to England, or the English provinces of the Dominion, which are grad- ually assimilating themselves to the republic, will be admitted to the union of states. The press of the — furnishes the exc! es of the Canadian press, and the tone of the latter is American rather than European, The process of assimilation goes on with satisfac- tory rapidity. ‘The Dominion is being Ameri- canized, though it is not being annexed. In time the thoughts of the Canadians will turn toward annexation. The isolation and humil- iation of the colonial position will not be for- ever endurable, and the signs of the times do not point to relief by a it of representation in the British parliament’ T. W. Noygs. see MASHING A MASHER, Comedy and Tragedy Agreeably Mixed ona Washington Street Car. It was quite evident to the observant pas- senger with gig-lamps ands market basket that the pretty young matron on the opposite side of the car was being annoyed, Hercheeks were slightly flushed and her lip trembled nervously. A big fat woman in a plaid shawl at her left was so tightly wedged in between herself and the front end of the car that it was impossible for the lady—and such she palpably was—to move away by so much as an inch from the man atherright, The latter was rather well dressed, though a trifle too conspicuously, and his good looks were of the unrefined order so attractive to the feminine taste that is not too highly cul- tivated. His build was curled one extremity of moustache, a diamond of considerable size was displayed upon the middle finger of a white, though stubby -Shgerea hand. His attention at the moment, however—as the passenger with the gig-lamps had noticed—was mainly bestowed upon the pretty young matron at his left, to whom he was MAKING DELIBERATE ADVANGES of @ constructively amorous nature with one foot and an elbow. Presumably, he waa una- ware of the distress which the said advances were causing, inasmuch as this sort of person is incapable of imagining that his seductions can be resisted by the other sex in so much as asingle instance. Atany rate, he kept them up until the observant passenger opposite picked up his market basket, went out upon the rear platform and, before’ stepping off at the next crossing, addressed a few quiet words to gentleman of unobtrusive appearance who was standing there by the conductor chewing the end of an unlighied cigar. The gentleman was seen to utter a brief word in response, to remove the cigar from his lips, and to contem- plate fixedly, through the doorway, the pretty young matron at the forward end of the vehicle. Presently their eyes met and THERE WAS A LOOK OF APPEAL in the glance that met his. Whereupon he strolled leisurely through the car and took up @ position, as if by chance, and without looking again at the lady, immediately in front of the stocky man with the black moustache, taking hold with his left hand of the strap that hung just above the stocky man’s head, For about two minutes the poniomes of unobtrusive as- pect stood there, holding on to the strap and appereutiy taking‘aotice of nothing icu- lar. Meantime -the stocky man Br d with his offensive attentions to the lady next him, and there is no telling how much fonger she would have been able to endure the persecu- tion had not SOMETHING JUST THEN HAPPENED, ‘The unobtrusive gentleman was seen toclinch his teeth tightly upon the end of the unlighted eigar which he still retained. Then, moresud- denly than it ean be told, nis left hand reli: ed its grasp upon the strap and descended Uke lightming upon the stocky man's collar, Simultaneously his right fist began to work back and forth. straight from the shoulder, at the rate of about two strokes a second, impinging each time upon the countenance of the stoc! mun, whose head, held as it was against the windo) ‘ame of the car, received. each blow wi a force that made the side of the that within not more @ seconds his face was covered with id im five more he was being thrown off the front platform an entire wreck, with his silk hat smashed over his eyes and his light overcoat split down the back. ‘The eonductor had not had time to interfere and the other passengers had been too aghast. “Excuse me, ladies and gentlemen,” he said, as he sat down beside the pretty yor matroa, in the place just vacated by the stocky man “but I eouldn’t see my wife insulted,you know, and mashers are ruled out where I come from. If it had happened in Dako! he added, just a bit regretfully, “‘I should have been obliged to kill —___. He Rests in God, “He rests in God.” "Tis all we read; ‘The mouldering stone reveals no more. “In God.” Of other words what need? ‘These span the broad eternal shore, O’erladen with its starry bloems, A jacmine bush conceals the mound, Neglected iu the place of tombs, ‘ith spicy, golden sweetness crowned. And deep within its 1 reast Some tuneful bird has sought & home, The tiny broo! within the nest Fearless and free to go and come. is here, happy birdling’s song jreaks thro: e stilinous pure and élear, And echoes the dark firs among. Sleep on, ale thou pulseless Where tare dsop golden Tals, From every troubled thought a) Forgotten every earthly pain. Sleep on; thy long repose is swe ‘Tender and cool ty grassy sou. © traveler! stay thy hurrylug feo, Step softly here—“he rests in God.” Salt for Moths. From the Philadelphia Press, For moths salt is the bestexterminator. The nuns in one of the hospital convents have tried everything else without success, and their expe- rience is valuable, as they have so much cloth- ing of the sick who go there, and stvangers, when dying there, often leave quantities of somine. &e, She ee room full of feat which were sent ere for w- Je they were in despair, as ph apets espe ieee nate the moths until they were advised to common salt. They s) a2 it around in a week or ten days they were alto, or ofthe moths, They are never troubled In heavy velvet ts 81 isc Ghee ta te cor- ners. Salt is not hurtful to anyone and has no bad smell. Here isa little bin ta one does not know: For bath, &c., use the same it. the rs on the rid A VISIT TO BRUSSEL@—THE LANGUAGE AND THE PEOPLE—OFF FOR ANTWERP AND THE HAGUE— AMONG THE CANALS OF HOLLAND—WHEELING OX A DIKE—D0OGS AND CHILDREX. Comrespondence of Tax Evaxixo Stan. OCorocxe, Genmany, September 1. It only remains for some enterprising mana- ger to discover us and put us formally on ex- hibition, for we are a great attraction where- ever we go, As we walked in the rain through the streets of Brussels the day of our arrival, with our long mackintoshes flapping wildly about or clinging lovingly to our stockinged limbs, according as the breeze moved them or didn’t move them, everybody said, “English,” taking it for granted that no one but an Eng- lishman would be seen in such outlardish garb, while Brussels’ fair ones, catching a glimpse of the delicately-turned ankles peeping from be- neath our skirts, chuckled and giggled and turned to look again, Brussels pleased us |. we thought we had nail ican pie at last, much; first, because some genuine Amer- E We accordingly laid in a sup- ply o1 pic. The side elevation was very prom- ising; but the pie proved to be simply an arch- itectural cariosity painted witn a mild extract of molasses or some other sticky substance. Brussels is something like Paris, except that in Brussels pone seem to have something else to do besides sitting around in front of cafes. There isa it of enterprise and ive- ness in many respects in strong contrast with Paris and London. An electrio street railway, on the storage battery system, is in operation and they have open horse cars quite American in appearance, We have, too, noticed for the first time American sewing machines, tobacco and cigarettes on sale. The spirit of ingenu- ity, or sdesire for something ingenious sim- ilar to that in Philadelphia, has assumed a rather strange } pers in the small mirrors so attached outside of windows as to enable the occupants of the house to see who is at the door, or who is passing on the street, without making themselves visible. Fetes seem to be a weakness eqmmon to all the European eountries. ‘They have the the slightest provocation. A mile of « was in progress at Brussels. It had already been running for several weeks and was in- tended to last ail through the bot season. A fete in the European se: an aggre- ae of traveling curii and other kes, phot ph gall ooting gal- ides th nders of various drinks d edibles ana the omnipresent flying horses or merry-go-rounds, which settle upon a town for an indefinite period to help the populace dispose of the surplus, THE LANGUAGE OF BRUSSELS isastudy. Partof the town speaks French, part Flemish and a small portion the Walloen dialect. The streets have each two names, a Flemish slation of the French being posted for the efit of the Flems, and most signs and notiees are displayed in the two languages, The Walloon seems to be onl occasionally recognized. Notwithstanding that we had our choiee of all these languages, we decided to stick to French and our native English, not wn- cemmoaly spoken, owing te the fact’ that a great many English in Brussels for econo- my’s sake. Living certainly seems exceeding! cheap, but when one begins to censider an compare with home prices it is ne cheaper than in large American cities. For a frane (20 gents) we got a good four-eourse dinner, including seup and dessert. But if we wished anything to drink besides water there was an extra charge of from 3 to 5 cents; and then, too. there was the fee of 2 or 3 cents for the waiter, who is obliged to look to the pa- trons of the place for his salary. The quality was good and we could not complain as to quantity; but for 25 cents one can get in almost any large American city as much or more—not served in as many courses perhaps, but with tea or coffee, and the waiter not dependent upon your generosity for a livelihood, We went out to look up the king one day at his summer palace at Lucken, but he wasn't in or wasn't receiving; any way we failed to se him. though we lay in wait some time. It was @ thirst for king hunting that led us to hasten away to Antwerp to meet Emperor William of Germany, who, it was reported, was expected to pass through that city en route for Eagiand. But William and the “Bohemians” did not make conneetions fer some reason, an: were again Gps gr to content ourselves with recol- lections of the shah of Persis. While we were doing Antwerp a strangely familiar sound shat- tered the atmosphere, No! there could be no mistake, certainly heard it before, - a , many a time.” Fi smcgged any wed other circumstances we should re around in the gutter for loose cobble stones or felt in our pistol-pocket for our gun which is never there and made other preparations for slaughtering that young, innoeent boy on the other side of the street. As it was we almost embraced him and rained our tears down his spinal column, He was trving to whistle that cherished chestnut,“Sweet Violets.” OFF FOR THE HAGUE, After devoting four hours te Antwerp we were off for The Hague, our first objective point in Holland, Belgium is not very dif- ferent from France; only a little less French. rated, in our estimation, for itome paved roads, most of skippe nat Antwerp we found real milk being sold as a beverage from stands on the street we were duly thaukful e ange with a fervor sniliciently manifested by the avidity with whieh we materially decreased the market supply. But when at the first Dutch town we found driak- ing water actually om tap at the railroad station we raised up our voiews in praise that we had at last got where they weren't so eternally afraid of water as in some places re might mention. We had anticipated seme difficulty in Mel- land owing to our utter ignorance of the lan- Guage, but we soon found that our fears were groundless. English was net uneommonly spoken, especially in the cities, In fact it would seem that English has withim recent years become a fashionable language, being dabbied at in about the same way that Huglish speaking people take Freuch or Gorman lessons. If ‘ound no one with a smattering of English fell back en our German, whieh, while it is not “Dutch” by a good deal, though many People eneraliy more or less effective. ateh cookery, we can make an favorable ye The dairy pro- » are especially fine. We cannot ean- idly say that we like teacups so small and delicate ‘that it takes twe or three cupfuls to make a swallow of tea, or teaspoons so minute that om undertaking to sip your tea all you can taste is the speen. However, both tes cups and spoons grew larger as we approach: nearer the German frontier, and we soon had no cause for complaint, THE KaGuE isa pretty little city with its full share of canals and canal beats. It has several steam dummy lines, one connecting it with Rotter- dam and another with Scheveringe: Dutch wateri j-immediate- look that marks the Towser bout bigesplonive burke of well-fed calves. BOLLAND Caxass. cyclist with barking wit two or three inc! go to sea. Mothers there can with safety gratify the wishes of off- spring, for sheuld storms arise the ship- pe nga nin parent’ jeep acmenene € we should prefer not to live surrounded by ill- freg-ponds—only there ap) tobe no frogs in them. Deep, wide 7% filled with water, serve as fences, not only between neighbors but between the highway and abut- ting property, a pon bridge or an “tethmas giving necessary and egress. packet-steamboat lines ran on some of the principal canals, but the most usual canal ves- sel is the tow boat, of various sizes and shapes, propelled by horse or mule pewer, and some- times by man-power or by poling. There is nothing especially to be said about Rotterdam. It is suid to bea typical Dutch city, which statement we will let stand. Per- haps the only fact worthy of reco: in con- nection with this city is that we there found a skeptical young lady with som ments, who declined t®belie: week to travel by rail from New York to San Frausiseo, We poe} “boomed” America x every opportunity and were very much that tule toe young lady—she was pag vse lord’s daughter—should think we were guilty of exaggeration. From Rotterdam went to Dordresut, 12 miles up bod fiver, by ctoumer, e principal passenger i urselves being pep testa sirup sistency which ba English attain- that it takes a made his race notorious if not immortal, lutely refused to stamd upona tarpaulia laid especially to secure him better feoting upon the slippery deck. The helmsman of these river craft sits up on an elevated seat in the stern oo the vessel through the medium of a ee tothat used on # hook-and-ladder WHEELING ON A DYKE. Cressing the river at Dordrecht we rode for nearly 50 miles on a dyke on the right bank of what in Germany becomes the Rhine, but is here called the Waal. One can scarcely appre- ciate the lowness and flatness of the ral surface of Holland and the magnitele and a of ite dyke until he mounts to the tep of one ef the latter and surveys the « rounding eountry with its innyerable wind- mills, unceasingly pumping the’ wer out of the lowlands into and sees trees and villages beneath him, while the river, with its heavy fringe of water willow and id, high above the , built either on the broad on the landward slope of the dyke, were vil- lages, composed largely of brick houses with thatched roofs, generally neat aud having an air of thrift aud comfort pleasing to the eye. Many of the houses hud neat fences—some of iron—enelosing a little garden or grass plot in front, Ou the slopes ef the dyke, in the out- skirts of the village, were pastured numerous goats, some of which had whiskers and some hadu’t, but nad little goatees frisking about, One ef the most pleasing features ef th ke to Us Was the fine road, for the most part nearly ashardand smoeth as a floor. Skimmin, along we left village after village behin: neither inquiring ner caring for names, Chil. ‘en Were numerous and as troublesome as they were numerous, itisa wonder that we did net run down and maim several dozen of the little scamps; as it was, all escaped save one girl, who, trying to be “smart,” by running in our way, was capsized by G—, and girl, machine and rider, in the order named, all fell ina heap, The girl was rescued from the bot- tom more seared than burt, and a bent pedal was the only damage te the machine. Tis mishap “queered” us for the remainder of the day, and uur next vietim was a chicken, a fine young pullet which, with that strange chicken scuttled right under G—'s wheel, and the twinkling of an eye was flattened in the dust. Hi delicacy about remaining to witness the fowl's last moments we did not lin- ger in the vicinity. It might be said that we even hastened from the t. Tt would be inconvensent to be held up for h a trifling matter as a» chicken, thought, aad we were soon far enough x, to take time to laugh over the incident— ubbub created in the villuge. the cries of the shrill voices of the women the bellowings of several men who shouted something after us in Dutch as we disappeared around one of the numerous bends in the road. We thought we bad abeut enough excitement for one day, but M—— must have his innings; so he started en a mad career down the land- ward slope of the dyke, aiming for a solid brick house at the foot, One common ruin of man and machine was the inevitable result if he came in contact with the house and we began to think up a suitabie epitaph for him. his mind ubout going to destruction and by « quiek turn of his machine ent short kis teur, aud from epitaph writing the rest of us turued our attention to advising him with reference to the most presentable method of repairing bis torn breeches, OVER THE GERMAN FRONTIEL. Late im the afterneem of the 3d instant we crossed the German frontier and everything immediately became very German. We rode until after 12 that night with a German cyclist, ing up at Wuels, our new-found friend’ home village, and Coe Hy run—seventy-eight iv aking ® stick into the is drive-wheel, it that the noisy, were about as ai 3 £ ie E i SOME FALL FASHIONS. Styles in Women’s Wearing Apparel that Will be Wore. — Bost Coton will be the fashionable red nert Zovave Jacusrs will be a feature of winter fashions, Oxur rue Frownns that are in season are suitable for bat trimming. Exoiisu Watnine Jackets are made a triffe — egies ‘than last, ‘mT2 axp Yeuiow isa popular combi- sation in bridesmaids’ dremen many Fermicoass are now lined with flannel, ob the —— necessity of wearing more Tus New Peur Borxers are beautifully soft snd fine and dyed in all the eutumn ehades, dark, pale and neutral, to match street cos tumes, Cvorg Daesszs ere made with tight-Stting sleeves, as full sleeves of so thick » material tumes of royal armure and ladies’ cloth of ex- quisitely fue texture, For Divxeas axp 5 O'Crocx Tras, black lace dresses combined with pale yellow or orange moire in Spanish fashion are very popular Moet sg ladies of the bruaette order of Ax Exquisrre Dixwer Gows is of milk-white India cashmere, demi-trained and with Greek eraperies bordered with « wide fret embroid- ered w gold and silver eords, Tune rs 4 Fancy just now for ribbon trim- ming on the plain straw hat Masses of loeps and ends are piled on the cro en con- coaling it; while the brim ie itt aa oo New axp Luxuniovs Tea Gowns are sent over made of black or is with embroidered borders fxd you's Sey Masyorrur Srrusx Woot Gowns bave pretty loose waists of silk, belted and worn with Beau Brummel coats that have loose fronts and jer- sey-Bitting backs, Sovracur Brarps are still highly popular on certain styles of dress, these put on in rows or crossing each other in quaint fashion. Tue PorvLanity or Tue Barton Har is still so Great that milliners both here and abroad are using these simple, flat-crowned, straight- gga shapes for airy models in net and ie. A Promixext Cuanacremistic mv AvTuxx Faswions will be the increased popularity of the directoire redingote, which will appear in di- vers forms aud made of greatly varied fabrics, 4 New Lice Woon Fanuie is called Austrian serge. Itis beautifully fine, and as it does not wrinkle easily, like Henrietta cloth, it is des- tined to take its place in the formation of utility costumes, ‘Tavetixe Degsses vor Avrumx Barpes will be made variously of Indians cloth, Turkish melton, glace mobair, bordered English serge and of finely-woven Freneb camels’ bair, whieh is a marked favorite in London and Paris. Cuixa Crare, camels’ hair, faille aud armure are the favorite materials for dressy black au- tumn costumes, Samat Carores are of straw guipure or of gold-colered Tosca tulle, trimmed with delicate Wreaths of flowers and foliage, Escunia, Passkmesteus is new and is an open cord trimming in Vandyke points. It comes in many colors, but always with a black foundation. Tue Ver Lone Groves are to be displaced by comparatively short ones, the change being brought about in order to display the wide bracelets that are again to be reinstated. These btacelets are massive affairs of bur- nished gqld, lavishly set with jewels, or else the metal is twisted into all mauner of curious devices. Wurre Satix Smors for evening wear have the entire toe-piece of open work pearl and minute gold bead lattice embroidery. In black and bronze satin shoes the embroidery is in gold aud in the delicate shades matching even- ing gowns. Some shoes have two straps com- ing from the bac« of the heel and crossing the aukle sandal fashion, ‘Tne New Brack Tarmmros are marvels of thodern richness and artistic taste, these in Vandyke bands, fringes, scroll and arabesque passementeries, Gothic is and deep points to mateh for corsage und sleeves, and special Gevices in silk an often Youxe Lapies will wear many pretty shirt waists ana blouses, more or less Russian in style, and wear them even for dunner and thea- ter dress even’ These are thorn-stitched, silk-embroidered, gulioon-trimmed, or they are pshirred around the neck or else shirred only on j the shoulders and crossed in front. Woores Lace on Guirvas Daesses are quite gone out of fashion; so are draped lace dresses of any sort, The only lace dress which is now really fashionable and in good taste is the plain dress of imitation Chantilly or Combent tan, made quite sitaply and trimmed round the foot = several rows of black moire or satin rib- Gattooxs or Evexy Winta are made great Use of in trimming, and are to be found in ail the dark and neutral colors, matching plain ress fabrics, or showing rich autumn mixtures and combiuatious in keeping witb the beautiful color melunges of the season. ester aftermeon the parents suddenly set Secutuer deateuing bowls und frantically in soareh of their ottprngy wei bed’ ees a wi After « seareh of z : iid Ls i af £ eI page few tris