Evening Star Newspaper, December 3, 1887, Page 7

THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON. D.C., SATURDAY, DECEMBER 3, 1887—DOUBLE SHEET. ) THE HOLIDAY FASHIONS, Autumnai Spicndore im the Streets of the Yictropelie, PANCTES TX FURS—RENAISSANCE OF THE RUSSIAN FEVER—DIs (INCTIVE CHAMACTERINTICS OP WINTER PASHIONS—THE SUSTLE BANISHED—NOVELTIEG IN EVENING WEAR. Prom Our Own Correspondent. New Yorn, Dec. 2, 1887. ‘The “fush of the Year,” the glowing color, the ripe abundance which has gone out of forest and eid, has come to the town for the season and #t- ed down upon the throngs in the streets, in the shops which are running over with beautiful Christmas wares and in gay drawing rooms which are restored to their usual supremacy by the presence of portieres and bric-a-brac and the never- ending stream of human life, There ts no reason here, apparently, for any of the ills to which flesh is betr. Why should there be ills where there are ‘so Many posstbilities of happiness? It makes one desire—intensely—youth, strength, beauty; the Power to posvess the good things, and impatient of age, weakness, disease, inadequacy—whatever fais and belps others to fail, of attainment. FASHIONABLE FURS. Fashion is many sided; but ths winter styles show a great deal of decorative work upon smooth- faced cloth, os disti from the homespuns, diagonals, and tut cloths of seasons, and ap epidemic of fur- y for trimming and as sets ot muff and boa, Aji kinds of fur are jn dems but the fox furs are in the ascendant— Diack, while, blue, stiver, and gray; and bg | ps with Ley! the black lynx, whic! sui tmiddie-aged and respectabie better than tue lighter and more dressy furs. Grey fox is the most popular, as it ia eft and strong at a very moderate price; but Diue or silver fox are more expensive, more beautl- ful and better adapted to velvet or the finer quall- Ues of cloth. ta less fashionable than for some years — otver—it is always more or less ‘trimming for muffs, for collars, and for But only the long-haired furs are sulted to boa; and as the boa ts the rage of the season, fox and lynx furs gain in conse which Is the novelty in England, y American furriers and can only be importing houses like R-dfern’s, all see it Paeeen sication of ‘Doa Is to tea gowns Rouse dresses. A Diack fox boa encircles the ‘Unroat and extends down the front of a tea gown of white corded silk, a line of the same fur being inserted at the side seams and between the plaits at the back of the demi-train. It of ti inning of the Russian fever which re catch. jug and which bas revived the redingote and gives tur coats, and jackets,as well as Russian aprons und tablecloths, ‘The long cloaks and coats of mink and seal are now in aemand, except for very cold regions. So temperate a climate as that of New Yor! re the thermometer rarely goes below zero an aly occasionally approaches that suggestive limit, long fur garments are an intolerable burden a large of the season, and always render the wearer liable to eoids. They aiso crush as well as conceal handsowe dresses, and have frequently Deen laid aside ip disgust by those who have pined Yor their acquisition. The long cloak this year ts cloth or striped wool trimmed with fur. ‘The all-fur garments are a small, eae ae orasmail visite wraj ‘very Short on the ‘k, Dut with longer, roun: ends and tails in front. The jackets are made in Seal or Persian lamb, black or grey; the visties in seal only. The short, tightly-curied hair omphe Jersian lamb adapts It to Jackets, caps, and Linge for giris, and also for children. "It 1s very Youthful looking, specially in white and grey; in Diack It ts better suited to general wear. sal ite, Jamb’s wool forms u very. coquettish fi- to soft, grey steel suite, can de ‘more daloty chan xrey Vienna cloth with vest, band 3 are not now, however, in any sense “fashionable.” Fashionable women do not wear them; they bave found a substiuate in the cloak with sleeves tnd Sttet back. But if one is not obi vo use one’s hands and arms the ciroular is very simple, Convenient, and comfcrtable. Before leaving the subj of furs, it ought to be remarxed that the muff, though almost univer- Sally trimmed, is not decorated by the furriers. On the cont: , the old-fashioned cords and tas- sels, even the appeared. A carried far into Yosible; and it ts the owners who bow of rich ribbon, tied around the center, ing the shade of the fur either in ‘gros grain, DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF WINTER COSTUMES. ‘The revival of the redingote is one of the most Marked peculiarities of the winter styles. It simply emphasizes the double dress effect which has been observed more or less in cloaks: ‘and costumes for several years. isa rather Severe style, but emtnently suited to winter fabrics and winter wear, to cloth and other woolens with fur asQnish. It ts also in accord with the general has, perhaps, sleeves nearly to the elbow of tule ‘With elongated tongues of moire. a Sa arenas of eer ay cate ani a vory satin front, covered with tows of Vehetian point With flue, gold edge. The front of the dress was Founded And che lace curved and drape! in an in- describ Diy fashion, ‘The bodice was Yo. nd highly distinguished, beautiful nother dress more striking, but pot so elevant Was of red motre and red led cra ‘at the side to form the ‘enlarged upd sensitive Petals of a flower, The train of the moire, the Pattern In crescents and half circles, and ite edge rounded up In the center with under plaitings apd quilting of Sil and) crape. |The dress was gut- an ren Scotch thistles, and appropri- ately Called “Madame du Diable.” JEWELS POR CHRISTMAS GIFTS. ‘There ts no lack of pretty things this season for those who have money to buy them, ‘The latest Bovelties in the way of Jewelry are made in dia- monds or enamels, the diamonds set so that the setting is not visible, A ficent ornament forms a garland of flowers for the front of a bodice, the center of & one a radiant sun in the shape of a blazing soit ‘This 1s a chance for a hun- dred millionaire. The old tiara and other fixed iments areer ‘nowers, butternica, fe, upon ments are crescent Berio intaney Stare ett or worn together. ‘The ornaivents for the hair are almost uniformly mounted as pins or combs. A pretty thing in enamel is the Pnanceo” bracelet. Phe a daisy from which One petal bas been picked and ts hanging by a siender chain, with the legend, “1 love you” upon It. A lice pin shows a row of five diminutive but prim little pansies (yellow), with an elongated, purple maiden aunt in the center, ‘A KECENT EXRIBIT, An interesting event of the later autumn has been the exhibition ot American embroideries, tapestries, and fabrics by the “Associated Artista,” of which Mrs. Candace Wheeler 1s the inspirt head. ‘The display was not Large, but tt was of al- most uniform excellence, and would be J ad- mirabie by high-art oritics in any capital in the world. Ainong the tapestries was the famous ““Penel or'aise Bora Wheeler, which won the prize ttm the test work of three hundred pupils, awaraed by the artist judges of Paria, was a later work, an But even more interests ideally beautiful figure of Alice Pynchon, from’the “House of the Seven Gables,” as she ts Curned out into the night and the storm. The snow falls about her and drifts up behind her, and the wind her light garments. Youcan feel the wind and the cold, wet touch of ‘the snow, and a border of snow crystals upon gilttering, silver cloth com- Pletes the icy impression, but’ calig out warin sympathy for the delicate, frightened figure, un- to such barsh treatment. The stuffs displayed are as marvelous as their treatment, and are all original in design and made ‘Specially for Mra. Wheeler, her work and artist Workers. When the association was founded, ten Or more years ago, Mrs. Wheeler went abroad to find materials suited to the formation of a base for art embrofdery. She found nothing that ful- filled her expectations or desires, and she came home, consulted with American ‘manufacturers, and faid the foundation of what has become a most important development of American manu- facture. From the first Mra. Wheeler put the seal ad stamp of “American” upon fabrics and work. Had all American producers, Inventors, aud manu- facturers done that America would rank much higher to-day for honesty as well as skill, iis a really proud thing to, lind artistic work, Which Will rank with the best, inspired by ideas from a classic in American Uterature and executed upon stuffs which have no peer in the fabrics sent out from the looms of the old world. These artis- tc materials are as well-known for their purity as thetr originality and sumptuous effects of color and shading. ‘They make the finest of “picture” | dr sses, and it has become a common thing for foreign visitors to select, irom them for gifts tor friends at home, considering them at once the finest and most truly unique of American produc- jon. A feature of the exhibition was the famous oan- Yas embroidery upon leather, outlined with gold thread, from the Boston Decorative Art Society, and thé Rockwood Pottery from Cincinnati, with: ite beautiful under-giaze and “tiger-eye” éMfects TOILETTES AT A NOTABLE RECEPTION. Te is a little out of date, but pernaps the reader may like to hear of what was worn by sev- eral notable women at private receptions in which they participated. One of these was given to Mrs. Cleveland when she was in this city lately. The beautiful young wife of the President wore a lovely costume of golden brown peau de soie, combined With cream-colored cloth embroidered with gold, outhine silks, chenilie and smaii beads. The em- formed vest, panel a, in form) and border at the foot, below which was a narrow alting of the silk, Tk was also employed for the charming. costar by Tua, the famous ¢ ume worn To'Miss ‘Cleveland, and aswed to piny for her, de- wo cl rr and as! play for her, serves mention. “This consisted of the softest White India wool, with lines of gold in the full ‘est and dra and in the folsh of the sleeves, which terminated above the elbow, and were slashed up on the leaving the arms per- feculy free when the long, delicate Suede gloves were removed. A violin of diamonds, a gift of royalty, confined the dress at the t! . Her cloak Was of gold-colored plush lined with white fur. A friend who accompanied her wore a high dress of exquisite wine-colored wool, with chem- sete of finest embroidery, fastened with garnets, Sing. lines the straight or ‘diagonal. effects the ong lines, t or al_effects, abyence of bunched-up draperies and the reduction Of the (ournure. ‘Too much emphasis cannot be on this last fact, for It is the interest of to keep up tilu- sion’ fo regard to certain kinds of bustles and Gress disteudera which occupy the market, and ‘Unere are those who lend themselves to deception through not Knowing, or for more selfish reasons, But in this nineteenth century tt is a matter of Teproach to all women that some will continue to make distortions and caricatures of themselves, 30 that they are subjects of ridicule as they walk’ tn the street fo idle men who stan. on the corners or Jook out of club windows. The true fashion of this ‘season demands no such sacrifice of dignity and sremilness; it is at least capable of betng and becoming, and the exaggerat jump reprevents it as little asa brazen exposure of ‘Dust does the elegance of the approved evening Gress. ‘The two most popular modes of are braiding and edges of borderings of fur. Both are availabie by very moderate purses, for ‘braiding is how executed DY mac! ‘socheaply and so ef. Sectively that the cost of what seems to be a hand. some braided jacket is less than a plainer one of fine cloth and better interior finish. Up fo a very abort time sluce “knife” braiding — that ts, braiding with narrow braid set on edie, instead of flat—had to be done by hand; now Lhere is a sowing-machine attachment—a woman's Jnvention—which executes it perfectly, and the inore costly, machine-bralded Jackets are covered With designs of varying degrees of merit and con- ‘Weationslity. The best and most suftable are full Of carves and bers, which run Into or about each other without any traceable pattern. The worst are those blocked tn large, figures which Dave no reference to the outlines of the form. Fur bordering may be, ¥ costumes as well as plain raided g.rments and eues: but Jf does not look well upon an “all over” braided jacket, and ts also unnecessary as orna- mentation, where Draid.ng 1s used. Fur, a8 trim ming, Is specially useful to the economical, who [un get more of ‘stylish effect out of a yard of Diack or grey fur put on as standing collar and ufls of a jacket, tham anything else at the price; having something that ills the place at ‘the throat of fur collar or boa and protects the wrists, A most comfortable and effective winter outfit consists of a jermey-Atting cloth garment, with Live of far round the throat and crossing the’ front oth vurban—the crown laid ip folds a wf conical ip form—fur vand for brim and mull made of the cloth and trimmed with fur, or of fur to match the trimming. Fifteen to tweaty Gollars Will cover the entire cost if the making is done by the expert fingers of the wearer, and the materials will be better than garments'that are Dought for double the amount. Materials are now very cheap and very good; tt the caking that brings the cost up to extrava. ant proportions. Dressmaking to-day ts one of ‘he Mose profitable of occupations, or would be, If Ube cost Of ving Im large cities did not absorb the Prods, dressmakers “who charye high prices sualiy finding it necessary to pay high rents and live in fasiionabie neighborhoods, The large sleeves are not employed for street costumes of cioth or heavy material They have Deen relegated to little girls and misses, or the Jess formal Bouse dress “There bas been an at tempt to revive the straight open sleeve, with Coat sleeve underneath, of the sixteenth century: and also the long pointed and “angel” sleeve, But it begins to be understood that you cannot ake @ part of an old characteristic or historic Gesign and bitch it on to a modern, nineteenth contury, three-quarter body without an appear- ance of incongruity; and that if you want to make @ pleture you must make tt harmonious in Acs detalis or it Wilk be valueless. We scoff at con- Yentions and conventionalism, but what we owe to them in preserving us from’ follies, gaucherios Of dress, speech and action cannot be ‘Th-asured, Xi is inaved a wise manor Woman that cau afford to go beyond tae lines, SOME FRENCH GOWNS. Among the latest novelties for the evening wear Of debutantes is the “rose-leaf” dress of tulle with petals of the rae quivering from the edge of the Grapery upon skirt and bodice. The petals are ay Batural apd delicate as life. They are fastened her in threes, and held by a single, fue, silk do the tulle. They are tn faintest suades straw color, or tinted white, and have shades of tulle. ovely tulle dresses are inade of tulle upon over florst muslin, apd thls over white slik: he materials are so light tat the whole form, appreciable weight, and are indeed a dream iatibess in costume. seca, oF tae ornamentation, of | evento elles Teappear this season, entirely }ested of their anciest stiffuess and formality. ‘Toe gariands hang from the sides oF across the front of drewes in a are Of grasses or droopt @s am algretie for Uke air, accompany each set, Dat they must be made Bons {Sade in’ France to be at ones ‘other ev wns sot eacca ze combinations of tulle i: 3 fi ef : fil Tow surly sallu rbUon Ww! terminate in doops. Fie ‘Danas descend: ys Knee, tue ribbon nearly the situs akira They ‘are Rot placed close together, but so that the hg er ar hag Bodice, Which is draped with’ tulle or crape and set clear and in star clusters, Migs Cleveland wore an evening dreas of pink silk trimmed with white lace, and was honored with the court bow, which 1s only used upon pre- sentation to royal persoi viz; the low dip, the step back and the slow elevation of the body to an upright position. A training in slow, ful movement—in low tones—in the method of ea. tering and leaving a and in the formula of receivit 4s part of the curriculum of some “Hntsnige” schools) and is certainiy, needed, tor nothing strikes a cultivated person more disa- ly than the “hurricane” mode of entering a Fegardiess of who is present. The loud, Tasplhg voices often heard the height and depth of four stories, or the way young people have of forming a citque and falling utterly of respectful attention to older ‘ought to be objects of thetr care and attention. JENNY JUNE, Reading from Bight te Left, From the Hebrew Journal. ‘There was no doubt a good reason for the prac- tice of the Hebrews to read and to write from right to lert. We have often speculated and in- quired about it, and while we could not learn or discover anything very tangible in regara to it, we are quite convinced that the most pertinent rea- son lies ip the fact that our vision from right to left is much clearer and stronger than it ts from left to right. Naturally, so we are informed, there ts no difference in nerve or in the optic arrange- ment of the human eye between the right or left eye, yet our own inquiries and observations show clearly that we are all, or most all, disposed, when we take an article of mer- chandise or a picture or anything else for examination {nto our to look at it from right to left, and not from left to right. Stuce we have endeavored to fathom this question, we can see quite ap advantage tothe vas by reading from right to left. If we read from left to right, the Parts read are yet continually before us; while, if reas from right to left, the parts read are then beyond our sight, and the’ parts to be read are un- obstructed in view. Now, whem we write from left to right, the line we are writing Is rather of @ delusion to the eye, while, if we write from ht ‘to left nothing Is immediately in front of our vision but aclear space. Even the pen and its shadow cease Wo exercise a less disturbing effect from right Wo left, while from left to right much annoyance is ex nced by men who have much writing to do. Our observation shows that, unaware, people use their eyes from right to left whenever or wherever they go into! examination of any- thing, whatsoever that may be; just as they woul naturally raise their Fight wand inorder to get a clearer sense of feeling by touch. src ——- ‘They Never Stop. From Tid-Bits, It ts this kind of a wite that makes some men old ‘and gray before their time. “Wiliam,” she says, after William ts curled snugly up under the blankets for the night, ‘did you lock the front door?” “Yes,” says William, briefly. “You're sure you did?” “Yes, sure.” ‘7nd you sipped tne bit, toor” “Yea” “You know you forgot it once, and it gave me such a turo when I found st out in the morning. I Gian’ get Over It for a Week. “We haven't, mlich anybody'd want to steal, I know, but I dont want the little we have taken, for I~" “A,2t! you T attended to the doors” “Wel lor goodness’ sake. tenued fo the basetaent door? pixar “Yes, I tell you.” “Because if you hadn't you or I, oneor the other, would bave to get up and attend to it now. I read "t care what you read.” is said that # man down on B— street for- me bat on't care if he did.» “And in the middie of the night a burglar wi right ip and——’ ae as “ve a not Up and see if locked that door. Youre surer"| ef Youhave “How many t_nes have { got to tell you that I ave Wel, You thouzht_y jocked it that tme “well, you x tt | when you left tt unlocked.’ “wilt you be quiet:” “I don’t care, William, you know yourself how Tvs one of the inscrutable mysteries of life why the slowest and most “pernickity” and most selfish of women generally obtains possession of the i g H i p Ry HHT BEEES F il i i Ei i i | i ui : | | vestigating certain reported crookedness, One afternoon he reached a small cabin situated near a tonished board bea! the a Teg ce eae eee” Re old felow with “Have you some fresh water handy?” “Plenty uy it down thar in the branch. One uy ther boys shot bucket all ter ‘an’ sence: Seca oo a babe Just then @ man, mounted on a m' rode up — “Mr. Plummer, got any for “Yas, thar’s one here, Bill Patterson, but you kain't get it. Go on away frum bere, or’ Til make 7elWvush yer would give ie ter me.” “Yan and ther nigger wushed that ther coon Would come down outer ther tree, but he didn’t come.” “Say, Mr. Plummer—” sao yer mouth an’ eaten morn that, rou’ ss mosey away ad 7oThe man rode up, and the Inspestor, addreasing bara did: you give that man his letters” rt aan “ase he worked agin me when 1 Pun for Jestioe uv the Peace,” “Yes,” but theGovernment doesn't care anything for that.” “Reckon not, but I do.” ‘Ail right, then, travel.” it I report you to ‘the Post-Office Depart. meat, which I shall be very apt to do, you'l vavel.” “Reckon not. This estabiishment mean’ nobody's got a Tight’ ver Cell me out.” How long have you had this ofMlcet” Ever sense I bt ‘dl ‘mean how long have you been postmaster?” ‘Bout a year, I reckon.’ At this juncture an old fellow, cautiously pick- ing his way among the bushes, approaches the postmaster, who upon seeing hiia sprang to his and exclaimed: “Whut in thunder do you want here, Abe Smith?” e “Come after that per.” idn’t I tell yer that yer kain’t git it?” Dut I ‘lowed that yer mout change yer ter git min “Wall, I bain’t, When yer refused ter lend me Yer siidé an’ hoss votner Week 1 told_yer that yer couldn't git nothin’ else outen this office.” “I'm er goin’ ter get that paper.” ‘ot leasen yer a better man than I be.” chat’s erbout what I think.” , help yerse't. With agility surprisi: for such old men they grappled each other and began a desperate strug- gle. “Abe Smith succeeded in throwing the master. “Now,” said Smith, as he to choke old Plummer, ‘goin’ to let me have sper?” A gurgied “yes” came from the postmaster’s throat, Smith released bis hold and: fered Plum- mer wo get up. “Wall” sald the postmaster aa he stood brush- ing fragments of leaves and bark from nis beard, “Preckon I wuz sorter mnistaken im yer. 1 didn’ know that yer waz such a nice man, Come in, Abe, an’ git yer paper, furyer have earned tt like a white man.” “Alm't thar a letter for me, too?” a ‘Wail, I want it.” Kuln't gitit, Able, Yer ft fur ther paper an’ not fur ther letter.” “Got to have ft, Plummer.” be sen yer whip me ergain.” Breve Lken doit." ‘went at it again, p aroun: Reach “other. Finally Plummer struck Abe & heavy Diow and felled him; then, seating himself on the prostrate man, he said: “Don't want thg letter, do yer, Able?” “Reckon not, Plummer,” “All right, come erhead an’ git yer paper.” When Abe had gone, the postmaster turned to the Inapeetor and sald: ‘ant anything ouven me?” jo, 1 believe not,” “Et yer had er letter here an’ J didn't want yer werd have it yer wouldn't argy tifer pint, would bod “I don’t think that I shouid.” “Don’t Want no truck with me?” Well, the Got “Wel en, FOod-by. ter in now an’ make up ther mail.” i” eae aac Am Ancient Order in Paris. French Letter to Northern (Belfast) Whis, ‘One is taken back tothe Middle Ages by the ceremony performed in the Faubourg St. Germain, Parts, a short time ago. There on the second floor of @ house two men were, with all the old-tashioned, ceremontes, made Knigits of the Ancient Order of the Militia of Jesus Christ, founded by St. Domt- nick at the commencement of the thirteenth cen- tury and approved In the year 1201n a bull issued by Innocent Il. ‘The dignitaries of the order, clad in their wh te and blue costumes, were assembled In the grand salon, while the privileged spectators who ctowded in the ante-chamber could see all that was done through the large folding doors, which were thrown wide open, Atthe farther extremity of the saloon another ‘transformed into an oratory, was visible, A prior was there awaiting the ‘two men to be admitted into the order. The nirst, a M. Lautier, of Clermont-Fer- rand, knelt before the altar, and she prior rising said,’ in a volce audible to all present: “M. brother, you are about to become a knight. It 10% to Ve Fich, to be honored or to take your ease, for thus you'would dono honor to the militia, But it 18 to be the mod»! for your brethern by the nobleness of your aspirations and by your gener- ous abnegations, and to serve as a valiant Christ. fan the Order of the Militia of Jesus Christ, of which you will be the ‘van. guard” A di-nitary soon placed the red ¢ross ‘on iis @reast “and attached his spurs, Another threW over his shoulder the knight's cloak, which 1s a superb black garment lined with white satin. The prior then completed the equip- ment by attaching the sword to the new knights belt, while the chaplain blessed bim. When this wasdone the new knight knelt down and the prior touched him three times on the shoulder with the flat of a sword, saying, “By God, our Lady and Father St. Dominick, I dub you knight.” Tbe new knight rectted the creed and afterward, with his sword on the gospels, pronounced aloud the oath to fulfil with exactitude the duties which the con- stitution Of the order imposed upon him. The second new knight 1s Dr. Dubois, of Valenciennes. A White Woman Among Australian Blacks, From the Mackay Mercury. ‘The white woman who was captured by the police and carried off from the blacks’ camp in the Australian bush has since died, and after a care. ful examination of the body it is supposed she was European, probably Scandinavian, as her yellow hair and light hazel eyes would denote, The nose has evidently been flattened by artifictal ‘means, but It does not grow up under the forehead like that of an gre Although the skull does not denote very high intellectual power, {t 13 superior to the pe “po and the hands, feet and ears are small, and ‘idediy European in shape. ‘The ears appear to have been pierced for rings wien Young, the punctures being quite different in ‘ape to those bored by the native instruments, poor waif and her deceased brother were probably as children saved from a massacred Ship’s company twenty to thirty years and she may have been somebody's darling, who still mourns her fate among the pine forests ot Sweden but whatever her or on the Ju story she has: it with her beyond the reach of man. ——_—+e+-—____ Gambling on the Decline in Missouri, From the St Louis Globe-Democrat. ‘There has been a marked change in the last twenty yearsin public feeling as regards gatabling. St. Louis Wasa great gambling town then, and at any of the big games the politicians and states. men could be found in abundance, In Washing- ton, between *64 and '86, I believe there was more gambitng done than ever was at the old German Fesorta, Faro was the game, and one could see assembled at the table Senators, foreign ministers, members of the Cal al of the Union. oror tne port of a tors ts Chat women occasion much more trouble ag passengers than men do, ‘The dictum that the vast majority of passengers Imisbenave may safely be put forth asa fundamen- tal fact. Menare more gross in their condi omen are nical and ‘plu: There can 4 | ! 14 Dress Reform For Men. ROSTON'S DECLARATION ON THR SUBJECT—HBW STYLES at THE EUR A Boston correspondent of the Ohieago Tribune Says: Bonton has declared iteeit tn favor of dress reform—not for women, but for men. Eight years ago it became the fashion to cultivate extreme Simplicity 1n masculine attire. Gold shirt-studs ie linen and neck wear. at Nahant this summer the beaus all wore ‘Sashes of @ik about their wWaista, Next season this picturesque mode 1s to ‘De adopted at every summer resort jn the East. In moet fat of shirta, Pa A) in an ‘no longer en regie, It must be colored—usually Stripes—with a collar of snowy linen. The very Pate ee eg Cimpored hay oe oie atk Ege oes en nmin enored guy aioccd - Ring horizontally—and between each two ribs of ad Bos- ream-colored, with salmon-bued polka Gots of silk. Another Kind is made of light rose Pigue, with little dove of ight silk floss sprinkled if. A short time ago shirts with str str indh and a aie ofbright strawberry end ght blue, were as the correct thing, and could onty’ be oDtained to order at fabulous ex- nse; Dut the cheap furnishing Broug x tom. ue ready-made ath the trade in them was The embroidery is done by hand and is eye ES Pale green pic are exceedingly Swell and cout $80 a dozen. Of them have lange white silk figures Worked The fashionable waistcoat just now or cream-colored satin, sometimes embroidered silk with flowery patterns. Tals, of course, 1s evening. Ki Srening. | Kueo breeches, too, ure’ rapidly coming ~- 00. An Emperor without Income. From the German Tageblatt. ‘The emperor's banker, Baron Cohn, deals with imperial household. The reichstag, indeed, grants yearly a considerable sum, which amounted in 1887-88 to 2,000,000 marks; but this isa kind of fund to pay pensions, &., first to the invalids of the French war who have no claim to military pen- ‘tons and who recetve, according to the imperial Order of the 22d of July, 1884, about 1,250,000 marks. Other invalids and their families’ receive about as much. Therefore little more than 100,000 marks remain to be disposed of by the emperor. So the unperial dignity Js almost, an, honorary Office. The expenses of representation have con- siderably increased since the proclamation of the empire. For this the emperor receives no indem- nity, and he has to pay them out of his private in- Comé. Therefore iis majesty receives nothing 8s peror. In order to give an idea of the revenues ‘of the Prussian kings we must refer to the history of Prussia, According to the constitutional law of the kt “the head of the state 1s entitled to certain revenues and advant tn order to fulfill his duties and to pay his necessary expenses.” ‘The amount of these revenues is not fixed by this law, which has been frequently altered. Accord- ing to an act of 1820, the king had to. pledge is Whole private property for the national debt, and he received 2,300,000 thalers, bo provision, being made for the other princes. ‘This income was increased in 1850 by about 500,000 thaiers, and in 1808 by a furcher 1,000,000 thalers, " These annuities are charged on the rev- enue of domains and forests to the amount of nearly 8,000,000 marks, and the rematnder, ex- ceeding 4,000,000 marks, 1s voted annually by ‘par- Mament with other state expenses; 60 the revenue Of the present king of Prussia ts about. 12,250,000 marks, or £612,500, It 1s impossible to state how much ‘the emperor can spend, the value of his prixate property being unknown; but this income ‘Placed by the emperor at the disposal rr it Of the roy From the New York Sun. Agentleman who was dining tn an uptown res- taurant the other evening noticed that his favor- ive walter, who was generally neat and careful in his work, was all out of sorts. Usually this waiter Was extremely polite and observant, but on this occasion he was very cross. His hands seemed to have lost their deftness, and his fect seemed to be continually stumbling up against some obstacle, Trice he upset dishes. and once; while carrying away some plates and glasses, he dropped them a the floor, smas ,tng several of them. When the ntleman ‘had nearly finished his dinner, which ad been wretchediy served, the waiter apologized to him by saying that ft was his day off. “Every waiter has his day off,” he said, “by that Imean a day when everything seems to go Wrong. Ibis what may be termed his bad day. There's nothing that he does that ts ight, and ail sora of dimiculties come in his way. He seems to have Jost 118 grasp and can’t hold on to anything. Scolding him only makes matters worse, and pro- prietors of restaurants have got to recognize that Such Is the case, and look upon ft a8 one of the evils that must be borne patently. It 1s the Walter's loss, of course, \ecause le may by his awkwaraness drive away old customers, and he also has to pay for all the dama.e done to the disues, In figuring up what I expect to make in a week I always take into account the possibility of a bad day, Itdoes not often occur, probably once @ month.” English as She is Grasped. From the Indianapolis Journal. ‘A few days since several teachers in the public schools were chatting vogether, when one re- marked, “I believe I have the banner child story for this week. I gave an object lesson with a picture of three little quatis crouching beneath a bush while an owl perched ou a limb above them Was making ready to pounce down upon them. Tue picture was entitled, ‘On the Alert’ Thad each Of them write a short description of it, and ee described the owl as ‘sitting on a little “Well, now, I believe Ihave one that is better than that,”sdid another teacher. “I put a list of nouns on'the blackboard and wrote under them, ‘Form the plurals of these nouns by adding s or ea. I noticed that one of the boys looked rather dazed, ‘nd did not begin writing, 80 1 asked him what was the matter. He said, *Why, I don’t see bow you can 1m..ke plurals out of them nouns by adding sores.’” “Thad a case that would hardly be believed any one except a teacher,” said a high--ch teacher. “One of the girls in my class in English Mterature handed in a paper on Chaucer in which Was the starUlng statement that ‘he was educated in Boston schools,’ T asked her for her source of Information and found that it was the statement that Chaucer had studied at Cambri he had heard of Cambridge, Mass, and ha’ misty idea that Boston was ‘the seat of all culture she transferred the poet to Harvard.” cgipeaking of authorities,” auld a fourth teacher, “one ———ee——_____ Odd Things to Ornament the House. From the Boston Herald. Pretty much every sort of thing 1s utilized, if one may say $0, for mural decoration n ‘Warming-pans, rugs, fishing nets, all get and, it must be confessed, when “the touch” , the effect produced 1s by no ou ft 1s simply unconventional and original in artistic sense. The latest “ornaments” to before the public are quaint and obsolete 8 z > 3 ——_——+¢e—____ Reminded by his Youngster. ‘From the Louisville Courier-Journal. A physician told a good joke on himself to an ‘appreciative audience at the jail. “At my house,” he said, “Imake it a point to ask a blessing beforeeach meal. There is a sharp, bright-eyed little fellow—a member of our family —who has i i Hi i | i i i i i i | : ! u if a { HI Its superior excellence iene sears he pasate Roast ore Bargains in SEAL PLUSH WRAPS. ae RIOH MILLINERY. ¥ and Childs and BO! trimmed and tntrlmmued, at the Lowest Prices im ino Large Stock of LACES, And Made-up Lace Goods, HANDKERCHIEFS In all Styles and Qualities, DRESS TRIMMINGS. Achoice selection fc whichaies selection for street and evening wear, to BH 00 588, a FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC. Ladies’ SILK HOSE i vr a Edin Extmfine CABTMENE HOSE: colored and basa 75s, good et Be. Ladles’ of ND UNBLEACHED HOSE, 3éc. . Ladies RICHELIEU LISLE-THREAD HOSE, $1 Warranted Fast BLACK HOSE, or money refunded, at Bc upward, vxtie ne Oe OF FURS. Fine FUR TRIYMING of every description. MUFFS AND Boas, Bear, Marten, Lynx, Monkey. FOSTER KID GLOVES, §1 per pair and upward. 230 907 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUR (aes Or Ove Gazar Ss AE id aa £ E Sog8 2° A CULL EER F DRY GOODS, TRIMMINGS, ko. EVERY ARTICLE MARKED IN PLAIN FIGURES AT REDUCED RATES. BERRIRETA CLOTS CONEY 4k” SELES on UK, 98¢.. FO! > AT 81.25. SELL HIGHER 3 ‘Y8c., IN MOST ALL SHADES. BLACK SILK VELVETS, S42, 81, $1.35 81.50, 50, SQLORS, 790. TO 91.49. 083.50, RDU NOY, ALL BKOCADE SILK! FURS OF AL. KINDS MUFFS FROM 390 TO 95,80. HegAS: IN BLACK RAGCOON AND BLUE HOSIERY, GLOVES AND) WEAR FOR LADIES. MES AND CHILDREN ve ‘CORSETS, THE BEST BEANDS. EMBROIDERED Bavk. ¢ BUTTONS, 680. FINER hen col ‘980. § HOOK FOSTER PATENT, 730. 1.25; WARRANTED. FOR EVERY PAIR THAT fies SSP a GIVEN. CLOSING OUT CLOAKS. THEY MUST GO. DBLANKETS, COMPUNIS: SHEETINGS” AND TABLE LINENS AND HOUSEKEEPING GOops. PERE OUR STOCK, RARE INDUCEMENTS OF- "BEHREND’S BALTIMORE STORE, n5-3m 908 7th wt. nw. Moozery Is not accounted a virtue in matters of business. “He who undervalues himgelf is justly undervalued others. “ihe very condition of things in the business world imperatively demands of every business tna tat be “SOUND HIS OWN TRUMPET." ‘The blasts which we wive to-day will be asatraina of geliciows iste to the people at lance but Olt. BE LOVED PEOPLE! it will be an if Paudemonsum had broken loose in thecamp of thoes enterprieing geniunes whe preimige you Now ONLY THE Baicie bur ths FULLNESS THEREOF, only that they amy’ get you into their toile and relieve you of that which you have without rendering an equivalent, but hat "twixt you aud Heres whtere they alae BLAST No. 1.—Dreas Overcoata, Fine French diagonal cloth, wide waics, beautiful dark seal brown, with Pelt lcoves with satiay perfect in Ae olegent ie Sores, vex with satin, perfect in ft, elegant in fin ‘There are two hundred and eighty Overcoata in thie lot. 14.10 is the price we name for any one of them. Go where you will, duplicates of these 1ts cannot be jum and heavy te, otis “Kine on " in the Ove t world. Peopie who had he of 5 v 78. sede heat crt ate cree, Neh Nelvet coliare and eivet pipine, ‘withal ‘ae substantial ghesparens. ‘“Joucan have your choloe of nis lot at BLAST No. ¢ is ot agppeniis ‘Svercoate, Blue aad brown, very heavy, Dark Melton Overcoats, medium weight, strictly all sition Overcosts, heavy weight, strictly all Victory Cass Overcoats, worth $10; oF Esicm P37. EDUCATIONAL. Me™ 8. C. DAVIA, a3. c0r ee SE EE a Raag cise ola See Sua Ser nec SF nt, 101 toa eee ase ‘TAUGHT W1snixetos CONSERVATORY OF MUBIC, ST. Pi oCigd building, $b and F sta, Nineteenth fear. ‘ano, 2 inte, Cornet, ke. Pree faruntaen "0. B-BULLARD, Director. @3-1m"" “ANY ONE DESIRING TO SECURE AN AQCOM- plished inetrartor a io the French ‘auc of now. Prof. H. A. 2 of Serbonne, ‘NIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA. Session of nine months October 1 Asst” State Coat ant Siier Sant Dewan enter at: re and yt Fa ‘one-third a canes, Thoroweh : curios rae ie. a Paermech. eer brid BO. nt A Cae eT haty, RATES yes. A GROWN, TEACHER OF CABINET OR- ‘and voles ‘cult ‘and thorourh we coy Baas aes jure, harmony az12t WwW STRUCTION TR GERMAN AND French t, Mr Oo Star oftte ase Address . PANES ARTEN AND) 118 Sunderland Place,sow ot Dupo rele. di-3m 2 Sa ~ (PSE MISSES KERR'S LONG-ESTABLISHED a m tor eT, Sowers, M.D: con B Hapoe ar: Wins 8 Thomabwos, Ms Le CS, Ax EARNEST STUDENT CAN ACQUIRE IN A WATIONAL KINDERGARTEN ‘PRIMARY N cho i, Size: Louie Potent, Prine “Teachers ass e Free lectu mothers, Wat. 8:30-4:80, at 101 1th wt n30-2w Ol SCHOOE FOR Yo meter peaiie Rey. P. I. Chapelle, D.D.; Rev. Wm, A. D. et leva, ot Hise Bho wet Sohn Son De MD: Mr. Frances “B W. A GENTLEMAN WISHES TO GIVE German converse’ mn. Terms and Sicttect testimonials, Box No. 4, Star office, no-dw* few lossons the art of thinking in French, and in y iessons a practical use of the lancuage. tr Clasace aif wrades now f ¢ author ot the French, System of Sound eras, 63, 840 ‘or #15. according &p the course: tris} leswon ree. Call Monday, vanes. sidtens SELEY BRED AOMate, Boe HOR Waake ington, D. C. “Reférences, Hon. and’ Mrs. 8. 8. Cox. m0. THE, ART STUDENTS’ LEAGUE: CLASSES IN 7 spit crtealt oo eaesbeanin a a: Messrs 4.6 PATON and DELANCY GILL Misery ADAMS and SYLVESTER. Terms, per month: Lite or Ligue, $3.00. Ey Portrait, 85.00; Water-Color or nl8-1m* tS m ry LOCUTION.” ‘The SHAFTESBUKY METHOD is the finest in the Morld. It teaches NATURALNESS. DIPLOMAS AND TEACHERS’ CERTIFICATES ISSUED. Lessons in Ciassor Privately. Thirty-two paxe catalogue free. References: Hon, A-H. Garland, Att'y-Gen.: Rev. Dr. 4, P. Newman, Prof Alex. Melville Beil, and iundveds oh others MARTYN COLLEGE, OF ELOCUTION AND ORATORY, 313 Oth st. m. w., half a block east of City P.O. 219-3m_ ARTYN'S COMMERCIAL COLLEGE. 313 6th st. n.w.. near City Post-Office, ‘The Highest Standard Business College in America, ‘Theory, Practical and Banking Departments. Day aud Evening Sessions. ACADEMICAL COURSE. Writing, Grammar, Rhetoric, History, Arithmetic, Alzebra.” The tive, Cataloeues tree on application at first floor, from 94, in. to &.p. mn. oF B FRANCIS G. MART’ ©. K. URNER, Cc. E,, Princ PIANO Lessons. Georraphy, studies in this course elec ‘MISS CLARA HARRISON, of, Wm. | Mason, _s9-3m*_8 Grant Place, bet. Oth, 1¢ LOCUTION LESSONS, Side EMILY B, 14 List. ue. _Lessons given at pupils” homes if desired. n8-1m*_ ENRY fo ge SOLO FLUTIST ‘OF ‘THE MA- fuer ayatem hay be engured for solos aid in come iBatuer system) May bee or come certs cs for the coming sessun. Henidence, 13 4th ot ae. 188 ROSA RAND, TEACHER OF ELOCUTION and voice culture; prepares ladies and gentlemen for the dramatic stare. Particular attention is ziven to coaching amateurs for private theatricals, platform and home circle. Mise. Rend can ‘be seen om Pri and Saturdays, at 1338 H st. n.w ob. @PENCERIAN BUSINESS COLLEGE, COR. SindSsis'aw, "Eateance’on D st cestanished rained for Cuninem or otheial portions, Three courses or businem oF of one. Efactical Business,” Stenowrapny. Typewsitinn and Graphophone: Rapid Writinw. Btadents may enter at Say itae, Near scholarahi quarterly or mogthiy ie Rated circulars free at College offen or by mail on —— °C. SPENCER, Principal. SARA A. SPENCER, Vice-Principal. Olah ‘ATE LESSONS IN ALL GRADES OF STUDY; gel Goundestil: prepares fOr college, A= examunetions. ses “Vy INSTITUE, a w-cor. Sthand K sts. nw. "Tae senrrvz scnoot oF LANGUAGES, WASHINGTON, 723 14TH ST. N. W., 154 Tremont St; Brooklyn, 40 Court 8t.; Rew York 23 W. sha St: Phila. 1523 Chestnut St. Thorouch trainine ta French, German, Spaulah’e Conversational knowledie in ONE or TWO T! 10 in stall classes: also private lessons, _Hignest reterences. ‘Terms NGTON SCHOOL OF ELOCUTION AND Wittens 804 Sr atom we Mae OE SEEVENS HART, Pruicipel, Volee Culture, Elocation, Laws of Oratory, Electiva, English, ani College Preparatory. Sin QTAMMERING CURED.—REFERENCE TO RESI- dents of Washi yn and others who have been tly cured. ientific methods. Mrs. M_ BERTIASY Wintel wamlario Sane of tore 4 t PyRAWING AND PAINTING TAUGHT BY COM- wesk. pecal clases for Phiidren on Saterday 5 classes for & St8L50 per month. Studio S21 11th st aw. oo ue INCH LESSONS, PRIVATE OR IN CLASSES, MADAME A. eae: rom iJ vee oe Lg dense rapids’ homes, Excel Bupclation ‘thorous! i instruction, 910 15th st.n.w. oles" . VERNON SEMINARS, ME CONE STT8 at stand 1190 11¢n et French ‘uwiieh Boarding and Day School for ony Sang Ladiee sud Lituo Giri ‘Academic, Intermediate and Primary Departments SERRGe Rica el amlano na orice ~1 ting and best modern omens Be — ney thus fall, ‘Thirteenth year- begins OCTOBER 6. For circulars apply to Principal, _4m MRA. F. 3. SOMERA. si Rina a «>? ae po ee ES Fevay oo Sar tasig em maree ia try Biba M. Dall F aod inte : paraetlands are BA MORE AND OHTO KAILROAD. PROCESS. SCREDULE IN EFFECT NOVEMBER 20, 1887. LEAVE WASHTN IN FROM #1, (Obicago aud a aoe 10 Sbam, For * Bor Slacinoati and St Louis, xp. dally 2:90and Beware of imitations of the Neme and Brand andbe 2:40pm. 9 By fitsbury and Cleveland, Rep. daily 10:55 0.04 sure and see to it that either sacks or barrels reed. cr and Local *8:40.am, ° [Eating ce “CERES, Fo Hie tna’} BS pes anit, Regeese SOS Watt “heaine pine bei weet and Pail. ‘And have the tmpeintof C3 iy and inwertpediete pet Bor, pale 2 Wp fod, 4G, TWO GOLD MEDALS 36,6 AER ER se 5-30, 5-55, 0 Attached, Kone genuine without thetwo gold medals. mapoile, 8:40 snd & jenday, 6 30a mn — mm 803, 5 * between, ¥. M. GALT & 00, 0b, 6:40, 8 30cm AS fed eae ne ‘Wholesale Flour and Grain Dealers, 10 pm ittae Branch mn, 18:40 pans for priocipal saloee sole? B ut ee $5:0'p.an." fOu Sunday stops st etl BREAKFAST we Sop oe stone mges = np 00 ne ‘and intermediate stations, +7 00 pm, only at ERICK, 18:40 am, 12:30pm. 15.30~ pa thoes For HAGERSTOWN, t8 40 a.m. and th 30 p.m. iy. wir naa Spam: from Pittsburg. daily, #20 am, am. and Facsr Buz Faves | “Pet hiPaannia, cnester ana wim 10.45 “Hepeereiaee sau ana FO gS Tae Tae te Cod foie as The y! PygGp gundars 307 3 0810-00 am. 1 Sh Phone-889 135,$:10,5 00.6:90,7 80, 6 3 11:00pm Faust aul3 _PIANOS AND ORG. BEAUTIFUL CHRISTMAS PRESENT. EITHER ‘Decker Bros. Weber.Rater or Fischer Piano or au tes . SANDERS & STAY F street RIE TIS ik THE HOLIDAYS WE SHOW A MAGNIFT- E cent swok.of Planta Four somous names DECK ES os WEBER, ESTEY, FISCHER Cases of Rove. styten ‘ pe BTATMAN. 21-3, 934 F ot. nw. ‘A FIER READING OUR FOREGOING CARDS, Abin oom Sons Teta, n1-3m 934 F at_n'w. GELECT YOUR PIANO OB NOW. IF iT is intended for a WiISIMAS PRESET. mnabe wavusT Four selection form our ia eet ek and Bleeper racecar ors Beery A a Sa BALTIMORE AND TOMAC aD. O34, Frat ny, Weahingon, DLoL ISS For, Ee, Canandairea, Kochestsr Sagara, ot, Paitimere, ‘Ma; 1217 st Richmond, Va S: 22. ong Tao Sevurday, VEY, QhGANS,, NEARLY 200,000" mAvE ape a a been made gold. The chotoe and | For ork the 7:20, © Husicians the ‘world over. “New styles for pastor. | FN o am 004-10, Toop Prd ee Molerate prices and cay terms BEE | Bundas, 0:00, di am2'g 6. 2 HARMONIC" isa wonder. SANDERS & STAYMAN, 11-20 p.m. Limited Express “213m 934 Pet o.w. ‘Pininw Cars. 040 ata dally, except ANOS RENTED, TUNED, - Pane. coon agus gu eet “SRDS ‘usical Instrumente, &. é and 10c. Music yy tas tee, ene ieee aeaS woes Fiano Covers. Sara for the i — . 7 yaled for their Great Power: iden turing ; ‘Axeuta for the “Whee. Tone, and Absolute Durability. lock" Piano, Cehich rauk high simone the standand makers of this country) and the Peloubet “Standard” rane. 2Planos Tuned aud paired peainietion teed. “niz-lm CARTWEIGHT & KEILEY, @ (ate W. G. Metzerott & Co.), At the old stand, 925 Pa. ave, -POTOMAC RIVER BOATS. ALLY LINE 10 NORFOLK FORTRESS MON- ‘BOE, AND THE SOUTH. SURE Bari Poe APAGTAD |ALD-ELLIS jasmachneetts ave. 7th wt. o reaitdeees ber 28, 1887. PE Pte and Clase Singing, Special sae ieee would'have it all please call'at pre ae SENT atkis” VICTOR EB ADLER'S a Teneo ms Conse Br eye CHOOL FOR BOYS 927 and 920 7th st.nw.,corner Maseachusettsave, | A few pupils taken family. Bttiotly One Price, LUCIEN F.C. COLLIERE, aM. ‘Washington, D.C., 1538 I st. n.w., near Arlington Hotel. OpenSeturdayuntillipm 020 | "Opens October 3; closes June L ‘°6-3m UNKENNESS, OR THE ‘HABIT, SHINGTON ACADEMY OF TELEGRAPHY, D* - ee ‘ Wi 1 F stn. w., rooms7,8,and9, _oclS-Zu* be given in acup of tea withont the te pornon takung tic beat system omnes an utiar possibilty tor the haus appetite vo Bip White Under Rbbitt House, and ue LPaENSTiNa, 1dtnat ghd Vermont aS Furcr Taz Burren, ‘Established in 1830. GEO. M. OYSTER & CO. Office: MARBLE BUILDING, Pa ave. and 9th st nw. 175, 1" ‘176 Bat. pao eee ‘Wholesale Department, 900 and 902 Pa. ave. n.w.. ‘Where wo receive daily large shipments of ‘ELGIN; NEW YORK, AND PENNA. CREAMERY. gn Residence, 608 H st. nw. #12-3mo GRADUATE OF HARV; TEACHING IN jashington, desires: smal) AS ‘Inquire of Bs Eh, AOS Fe aw 615-3m a MEDICAL, &. DA Slien zanna jonly Reliable Ladies ean be consulted y AOE O nt, Detiroen 436 and 6th Oftce alwade open. Ree. HOUSEFURNISHINGS. J. B. Lersrx& Bro. (Formerly Paes Phew Amantice WEST INDLA LINE = BAKKACOUTA, Sailing 17th Dec., 26th Jan., and thereafter, ‘aday or more st Croix, \-4 SS SSeS ees nlétuthe3m pt PROFESSIONAL, ra 3 tf i ! i | i i i