Evening Star Newspaper, August 29, 1885, Page 3

‘THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C., SATURDA THE ANTWERP LADY AT HOME. Benny June Photographs Her aud Her Surroundings—The Economical House Wives of the Land Where the Queen Turns and Dyes Her Old Gowns— Dresses Passed Down from Generatio te Generation—What is to be Seen at the Exposition of 1885—Coming Styles Foreshadowed. From Our Own Correspondent. ANTWERP, August 25. ‘The blending of youth and age is perhaps the most striking feature of these modern days; there is no longer anything old, there is no longer anything young. Children know more ‘than their parents and age counts for nothing unless it is antique enough to be a curiosity. There is nothing which strikes one with a Keener sense of disappointment than this ab- sence of the venerable that we look for, where age, and a great past, had commanded rever- ential respect. It is something like rouge, and ernaments and affectation of youthfulness, with the gray hairs and bent forms of a vener- able grandmother. And it is sometime before ‘We can reconcile ourselves with the change, or ‘understand that {t is not affectation—not age— ‘trying to conceal its wrinkles, but a new growth, & veritable birth of the active, growing, enter- Prising present at the hearth-stone of the past. Autwerp {is at once both young and old. A maritime city in communication with every nation over the face ofthe earth, it realizes its Fouition and proudly accepts iis responsibil jes. Its splendid system of quays, the money spent on public improvements, on’ the making and maintenance of its miles of park and gar- den and boulevard render it one of the most charming of residential cities, as it Is one of the most active and growing from a business point of view. In many ways it could well teach New York @ lesson, of thoroughness in regard to ¢leanliness, for example; and in the wise and Aiberal use of the city’s money for substantial Public pai Socially, and looking at the habits of the peo- Pie in detail, one finds differences which are not so apparent on the surface. An Antwerp lady ping tw market or to make @ call, looks as @ Rew'York lady might under similar circum Stances; there is hardly any variation in the gostume, little in the manner or appearance. ‘The ouly difference perceptible, and this to an experienced observer, is the absence of strain, which is so obvious in the dress and habits of New York women. The latter aiways seem to be trying to look equal to the occasion, or to their own idea of what {s expected of them. No other women anywhere give this impression to the same extent, least of all English wo- Men, and their neighbors of Antwerp. They Will 'go out in the morning, and sven make @ call, in a cotton dress, and dress more for convenience, less for fashion. This is particularly the ease with Antwerp ladies, ‘who, however, in their own way, and according Wo thelr own ideas, dress with reat taste and elegance. They arc very decided in regard to what is comme id faut, and will not adopt a style that is vulgar or pronounced, though it should be introduced from Paris. France, in fact, s Bot the authority in Antwerp that it isin America, ana expecially in New York. It ex- elites acertain interest and curiosity in regard to its novelties; but the desire tor these is sec- ondary to the respect for their own traditions, aud the possession of that which is permanent and part of the heritage of the family. THE ANTWERP LADY AT HOME. Fashion In America is made, and almost con- trolied, by American girls, who, if they do not work for a living, have no duties, and are al- most always upon the street. Abroad, girls are Farely seen upon any public promenade or thoroughtare, and never without acbaperon. ‘Their dress is modest, quiet and designed not to atiract attention, while that of older women is Uniiormly sober—too much so, for it, becomes absolutely common-place. Yet the quiet, rather dowdy woman in black, or gray, or brown, is rhaps the possessor of stores of houschold m and beautiful lace and has old jewels and carved furniture, every piece of which is atreas- ure one Would give anything reasonable or un- Feasonable to possess. The Antwerp mother and daughter stay at home to take care of these things, to acquire the knowledge of the duties of hotsewife and perform them; and they sre Rot afraid of undertaking any duty that comes Within the sphere of the true housewife. This habit of staying at home and subordi- mating the making of calisand the various duties f social life, upon which the American woman Iays so much stress, to daily household occu- Pations, and the claiins of home, husband and children, exercises an enormous fnfluence upon the habiis of dress, and restrains the tendency to frequent changes in fashion. The most im- ait part of fashionable dressing with us is «the street. The important part with an Ant- ‘werp lady is to be in possession of certain ele- gancies of costume, particularly laces and fui which will give distinetion to her dresses ol ceremony for the house. Fine lace is the pride of the Antwerp lady, the modern machine- made imitations she stigmatises as trash. And this Is one of the reasons why the true Antwerp- fan looks down upon Paris novelties. She acknowledges they are effeetive, but they have no permanent value and are “possible” to every one. Lace is a valuable family heirloom and is only left to the member of a family Who will take care of it. LACE AS AN HEIRLOOM. Lace in quantity is never seen in the street in Antwerp, unless it is worn by English or Amer- Jeans, for no Antwerp lady would wear her rich lace in the street or allow herself to appear in a cheap imitation. These rules still hold good, though there is iess rigidity than forn young girls wear contrasts, and th lesigns in forin and tabrie\which they not have dreamed of ten ago. The do- Mestic and social habits, however, hold good, and are maintained as a matter of pride by the genuine ladies of Antwerp. (Ome of these was Saly,a child: and would naturally have inher- ited a magnificent ‘collection of lace gathered and Inherited by her mother, But stie was not Anelined to work with the and rebelled ‘against the necessary condition imposed of Jearning how to mend and_ actually make lace, S08 to be able to _keep it in perfect condition’ Her mother did not force her but simply told her that the lace in that case would never be hers but would be lett to some member of the family able and willing to “entertain” and care for it. This threat was suflicient to induce the young lady to tulfil her Mother's wishes, and she is now not ouly the possessor of one of the Hnest private collections of lace in Antwerp, both modern and antique, bat can repair any of ft so that it is exactly the same as before. Yet this lady recently papered and painted two rooms with her own hands, at & est of fifteen francs for materials, becaus business being dull, she did not wish tosubject her husband to the cost of a house painter and decorator, who had estimated the work aud | material at 225 francs, hey would @esirable possession. from the piece, as ‘with us; but an accurate pattern is sent and the dress is outlined from it, and the pattern wrought in according to cost The lace pieces for bonnets, fans, parasols and ¥ article of the toilet for which lace is used, are all made and fluished upon the edge in the Same way, and are beautiiul and permanent possessions. The cost for a real lace dress is not more than one covered with Imitation lace {s with us; but the difference in elegance and Bnish, in permanent beauty, cannot be put into words. It Isa ditlerence in the actual morality and esthetic influence of alite-time. An Ant werp lady of the middle, or business class, looks forward to_ the aequsition of such @ dress as a New York lady of the same condition in life might to the 4 ition of a sealskin cloak. But the Antwerp lady more frequently gets the dress than her New York sister the elk: for the reason, probably, that less money i-Sepent in Antwerp on trittes and on the costly articles of street attire, bor nets, parasols and above all, gloves, W! re such an important aud costly ite Besides, the men ke something, itis equivalent to their drese-coat. At will be worn at the great family reunions and anniversaries, over all black, over color, With sik sleeves’ under the lace, with lace sleeves ul in short, with slicht additional expense, imake several dresses and be a great t ut upabd wasted WHEE. MY IS ADVISABLE. But great care is exercised in regard to over- @ressing. The standing of business men Is not helped by display, or an exhibition of extrava- ganee on the part of themseives, or their wives, On the contrary, living in a hot s, or indulgence {i ing Wife, or idle, muc yy coinpromise them; wh Stunt retrenchment, the evident disposition to repair damaz lowering the expenditure, Wins approval and is the only way by which the position in sociéty ean be retained. To Silustra: rp Whose husband in an apparently prosperous business, or- some carved furniture for ‘her salon and 4 set of lace for herself. Betore either was paid f the lace, was ¥ the ¢ loss of fity diately wrote to . explaining the cing to be reileved of the goods. She recetved a cknowledging the f her position ‘and yielding in very courteous terms to her request. A friend Who knew of her embarrassment in regard. to the Jace, took it of her at the prieeand paid the bill, nother made a pretense of a visit every two weeks to assist _her with her sewing aud mending—the searstresa, who is in the habit of going for a day or two’ once in two weeks lo most Antwerp families who do not keep one, having been placed among the unessentials for @ time by the thrifty mistress of the house. ‘These seamstresses accomplish an amnazi amount of work, and receive from two and & half to three franes per day, the latter sum. where they are dressmakers as well as seam- tresses, Fifty to sixty cents would seem a very miserable pittance in addition to food, in New ‘York; but it Js equivalent in purchasing power— of at least In resources for living, fucluding room-rent—to from one to two dollars in New York, and as a class they seem much better off than in Paris, and by no means to be pitied. An Ameri lady abroad, to whom the ceding incidents were relited, remarked that such a system might do in Antwerp, but would hot answer in New York, orin any oluer Amerl- ean city. With the Antwerp manand with Germans erally, their home, {ts maintenance accord- ing to their ‘and its respectability are the first objects in life. They accept retrenchment of expenditure for the time only; when con again attend, the outgoes proper to thei Position, they are in haste to restore the usual style of living. The and thrifty, but ‘ eontented. They n in America, | that a lace dress means | the household, or, ifthey have no painting or embroidery or haps in the cultivation of a the Hay: in the evening they go out wi theirbus- bands to the theater, len or music hall; so that the married life is more in common than ciictethonane ecetarsabe ot muel ently wear out her heart on the click of the latch-key. ‘THE WOES OF THE ANTWERP GIRL, The young girl, emancipated from school, but suppressed at home, seems to the transient visitor, the member of the community mst to be pitied in Antwerp, and all continental cities. Young men not speak to them; it's supposed to De~and they can only: follow t is su —and they can her lead. To the New York woman whe re- members her own “good times,” and the con- solation they afford her, in the re! for the dreary loneliness of her married days, such @ wearing away of youth seems cruel; and to New York girls, who themselves take the lead athome or abroad, who “order” the com- ings and goings, and consider their father and mother only as mediums for getting what they want—as invented, in short, for their particular purpose,’ and _gene- rally mercifully and __providentially removed where their money becomes more use- fal and necessary than their presence. To such iris of the period the habits and behavior of in some sort of work— “ontinental girls are simply “ridiculous,” and they “only wish” they “had a chance to'get at them alone, poor things, and tell them what to do,” Stil, while they loose something of growth in thelr lack of freedom and spontaneous ex- ercise of faculty, they gain much in self-re- straint and knowledge of what a woman should know, knowledge of which our girls are lament- ably ignorant, and which accounts for much of the unhappiness and frequency of divorce in American married life. The New York girl has fe Pires times” before marriage, the Antwerp ri after. "The distinction of dress where aze 1s con- cerned is vory marked in Antwerp, and indeed in ali cities on the Continent. tton dresses and straw hats or bonnets are the rule, the for- mer trimmed with cream or colored embroid- ery tomateh. The thin wool materials, printed in small designs on cream grounds, are, as with us, novelties, in common with canvas cloths, of the season and much used for simple dresses with straight skirts and waists gathered, back and front, and belted in. Wide sashes are worn with these pretty gowns, but not so commonly ‘as velvet loops, beit and standing collar: with lace above, the velvet and lace matching that upon the hat, and all of a dark color—green, garnet, brown or blue—matching a color in thé design? At a somewhat formal afternoon re- ception “in Antwerp, two young ladies, daughters of @ wealthy man, wore tunics, or a sort of princess’ polonaise, very sim- ply but prettily draped over geranium red surah, with cream satin belt and ribbons, and a bunch of the flowers at the belt. Both were dressed alike. Their mother wore a dark canvas cloth, striped with wine-colored velvet over adark Satin skirt, plaited and showing beaded panels. The trimming consisted of revers of the velvet, forming bretelles, a headed collar, close to the throat, sleeves and collar edged with rich lace, the latter forming a square jabot. The ladies’ jewels were old Flem- ish, and harmonized admirably with the rich colors of her dress. Another’ dress formed a tunic draped to the side of embroidered eream- colored canvas, over a Straight platted skirt of gens d'arme blue silk. The jewels were carved Onyx linked with'silver. Undoubtedly the Antwerp lady lacks some- thing of the conventional air which we call “style” in New York, but she is saved from the unutterable common-place, so frequent with us, by her permanent possessions, by her artistic ornaments and the individuality with which these invest her, The Antwerp lady is, as a rule, much more careful, too, in regard to her underwear, and (acne f her corsets. Her underwear is less flunsey, but itis beautifully made and embroidered, or trimmed with tie finest torchon lace, and’ her corsets are made and fitted as carefully as her dress. The Ant- werp lady, and by this designation I do not mean a member of a small exclusive class, but the representative wife of the ordinary well-to- do man, would look with astonishment upon the 6th-avenue shopper, who buys her corset where she can get it cheapest,sometimes at one shop, sometimes at another, and rarely has two in succession that fit or misfit alike. Her corsetiere is an important rsonage—as im- } Sekemy as her dressmaker. She comes to the jouse to fit and try on, atter taking a measure, and makes a corset for three dolla color, of handsome satin-Jean, exquis broidered in feather stitching, and guaranteed forayear. The fit is pert and the bones only wear through when the rest of the corset is giving way. Itis,in short, a conscientious corset. THE INTERNATIONAL EXPOSITION at Antwerp affords an excellent opportunity for seeing representative Antwerp ideas, and also the newest and richest in fabric from the cen- ters of Continental industry. It is not so exten- sive as the Philadelphia Centennial Exvositio but the exhibits are in some respects muc! more complete. The entire display of Lyons silks, in the French department, has en bought up by the leading dry goods house at Brussels, and comprises every rarity of rich silken fabric, all in the newest, most beautiful colors and designs. For evening wear there is every delleate shade of Canton erepe, which will be more fashionably worn than ever, ei riched with hand-embroidery and combined with silk or satin of the same Shade. Contrasts have given way to combinations of material in the same color and to stripes which are shaded, tone upon tone, in the same color, but different material. As for example, brown sik has a wide veivet stripe, shaded in five distinet tints of brown, which are not blended but laced beside each oiher like strands of sewing- ik of different shades. - Bat there is a smoke gray with a dark wine-colored stripe of velvet; a pule olive with Strawberry, the latter inclosed in dark sea-blue. There is a blue with nasturtium stripe, shaded to brown: and in velvet brocade, a long” slender spray of leaves in brown velvet upon a pale yellow ground of satin. A dark shaded green plush is striped with Ottoman silk in Erresson- green, and a bottiegreen satin with shaded copper colored velvet. A lovely blue silk is brocaded in pointed festoons, tied with narrow satin bows in small graduated spots, and there is a pink to correspond. An old idea, very tashionable some twenty- five years azo, has been revived, in white, wa- tered silk, and also in black. This is to outline, or rather follow the lines in the fabric with em: broidery. This was formerly done with gold and silver thread. It is executed now with beads, white upon white, black upon black, and with distinguished etfee THE FINEST EVENING DRESS in the Antwerp exhibit is of pink motre, very rich, with along, superb train of Brussels lace, jJaid in a flat, double jabot the entire length. The front is of lace flouncing, intermingled with the moire, the side of the silk, the bodice of the peasant form surmounted’ by crossed folds of the lace, tucked in and pointed back and front. The sleeves are of Lice, lowered to, but not over the elbow, and are open, except where the two sides are brought together and enclosed ina band of pink velvet. The garni- ture consists of groups of pink ostrich feathers, placed high at the side and upon the bodice. A bridal dress displayed a long, perfectly plain, plaited train, as bridal dresses abroad always do, The only very great elaboration admiss- abie in a bridal dress ts in the veil, which may be priceless, if it is of lace and an hcir-loom. But moire itself is not in the best taste, unless it is for a lady past her youth, or who has been mar- ried before. It is too old'fora young lady, and gives an appearance of age to the wearer. A. soft, rich, satiu-finished, but not glossy silk 1s more suitable, beeausé more youthful, and quite as rich and distinguished looking. Some showy contrasts were passed by with @ shrug of disapproval by the born and expe: enced Antwerp lady who accompanied us in our round of inspection. “Not good,” she said, our Antwerp dressmakers have ‘not always done their best; they are afraid of having their | best designs copied.” ‘The day is past, however, | notwithstanding Antwerp traditions, when an iné Of fashion is closely or exclusively fol- ed. Antwerp young ladles wear white upon | the street, itis remarked, upon the rare occa- | sions when they are seen, and quite freqacutly | in the gardens on the summer evenings for the first time this year, and competition will do for Antwerp, what it does everywhere, produce continued diversity. There isa fashionable de nand, just now, for the old pillow laces. A New York artist in Antwerp has made of a pillow. lace worker a striking picture, and the reigning Jadies, the Queen of the Beigians and the Countess of Flanders, wearthem and have them de in special patterns. The Queen of the | Belgians is a plain, ray haired woman, rather above the middie height, graceful in her walk and bearing, but very simple in dress and man- ner. Her economies are carried to such an | extent that she is said to have her dresses taken apart and dyed when they have become faded and discolored from age; but, this may be an | exaggeration. I saw her at ‘the Exposition, where she walked about, almost unattended, two afternoons in succession, and the respectful homage paid her by every one was proof of the esteem in which she is held by all classes, BEADS COMING TO THE FRONT, Beads seem likely to oceupy a more import- ant place than ever in the dress of the imme- late future. Front breadths and panels are exhibited beaded upon dari satin and plush, in exquisite designs of leaves shaded in natural colors, or in rectangular patterns for the sides of dresses, matching the straight cuffs and col- lar still worn high against the throat, Scale atterns, overlapping like fish-seales, are in high vogue; but the ugly, round, detached apple, melon and cone desl are nowhere to be seen, a fortunate circumstance, for they were most unbecoming and the despair of,dress- makers. Beaded bodices, like seal are fitted like jerseys to the but must be “hand wrought, a so are Very expensive. They are considered & great desideratum and will doubtless appear in colors during the coming winter season, though Stags ‘aeeeahibiend wea anit pine jerseys are ex yan whieh show decided novelty. ‘They ure made 1p the finest stockingette, in lovely dark shades e, wine-color ‘as to beauty, but good for Ertury and” always in fashion. | Buch a would two francs—t ut would be & ‘Omy at that price to those who wear costly eve- Sremses Pas frcould be made w seain and and remain She beaut ant Pentre eee ieee is not so youthful or #0 un common as this fine and exquisite ity of Appenzell and done on silk, musiin or finest batiste. The little ‘changes of fashion become of very. small importance as soon as we reach the nent of pe, for here every fresh its specialty, its interest, its industry, ‘Sequire an tin} ce for us An P toece, Handirork here gives an individuality which is essential toelegance. A lady woul not dream of wearing machine embroidery or machine-made lace. ‘The newest materials, as with us, are the canvas cloths, and they jre ox. ibited in lengths for tunics,in the first sed But ig ai dred and fifty to a hun seroma snare ae ve foci Dat the embroidery is all done by hand, and woul sell with us for upwards of @ hundred dollars instead of thirty to thirty-five dollars. ae OF ‘There are enormous catseyes and jewels of great value in the Exposition at Antwerp, am Particularly in the Italian department, some wonderful coral; but there are no ornament that possess greater interest than the old Flemish jewelry, of whichone very beautiful and complete set is on exhibition, which has been reset atter being in a family for genera onsen gilt from be owner to hts wife upon r silver ing day. One final word must be sald of Antwerp ladies in regard to their out-door ents. Asa rule ‘these donot at all accord with their possessions, or their habits of dress at home, They rarely or ithout tide garment, but then fey morerarely go out st all than New York ladies; and the newer or older fashion of @ wrap or mantle is of less importance to them. They still wear round, furlined cloaks in winter and will order them in succession of the same maker, If a New York lady should buy two round cloaks {n succession she would feel that the fact demanded some sort of explanation or apology, in fact she would not do it, for the reason that if she did she would not receive the credit for having anew cloak at all, With us, it it is a round cloak one year, it must be a dol- man the next, and vice versa. Or if'it be long one year it must be short the next, so that the difference shall make the distinction ciear to JENNY JUNE, Siege of Vieks- ‘From Gen. Grant's Paper in the September Century. We had no siege-guns except six thirty-two pounders, and there were none at the west to draw from. Admiral Porter, however, sup- plied us with a battery of navy-guns of large ealiber,and with these and the fleld-artillery used in the campaign, the siege began. The frst thing to do was td get the artillery in bat- teries where they would occupy commanding positions; then, to establish the camps, under cover from the fire ot the enemy, but as near up as possible; and then to construct rifle-pits and covered ways, to connect the entire com- mand by the shortest route. The enemy did not harass us much while we were constructing our batteries, Probably their artillery ammu- nition was short, and their infantry was kept down by our sharp-shooters, who were always on the alert and ready to fire ata head when- ever it showed itself above the rebel works. In no place were our lines more than six hun- dred yards from the enemy. It was necessary, therefore, to cover our men by something more than the ordinary parapet. To give additional protection, sand-bags, bullet-proof, were placed along the tops of the parapets, far enough apart to make loopholes for musketry. On top of these, logs were put: By these means the men were enabled to walk about erect when off duty, without fear of annoyance from sharpshooters. The enemy used, in thelr defense explosive musket-balls, thinking, nodoubt, that, bursting over our men in the trenches, they would do some execution. I do not remember a single case where a man was injured by a piece of one of these shells. When they were hit, and the ball exploded, the wound was terrible. " In these cases a solid ball woulfl have hit as well, Their use is barbarous, because they produce in- creased suffering without any corresponding advantage to those using them. The Geeta could not resort to our method to rotect their men, because we had an inex- austible supply of ammunition to draw upon, and used it ireely. Splinters from the timber would have made havoc among the men behind, There were no mortars with the beslogers, ex- cept those that the navy had in front of the city: but wooden ones were made by taking logs of the toughest wood that could be found, boring them out for six or twelve pounder shells, and binding them with strong Iron bands. ‘These answered as coehorns, and shells were success- fully thrown from them into the trenches of the enemy. The labor of building the batteries and of in- trenching was largely done by the pioncers, as- sisted by negroes who came within our lines and who were paid for thelr work; but details from the line had often to be made. The work was pushed forward as rapidly as possible, and when an advanced position was secured and covered from the fire of the enemy, the batteries were advanced. By the 30th of June there were two hundred and twenty guns in position, mostly light field-pieces, besides a battery of heavy guns belonging to, and manned and commanded by, the navy. We were now as strong for defense against the garrison of Vicks- burg us they were ugainst but I_ knew that Johnson was in our rear, and was receiving constant re-enforcements from the east. He had at this time a ieee force than I had had at any time prior to the battle of Champion's Emperor William's Way. HOW THE VENERABLE POTENTATE PASSED HIS TIME AT GASTEIN. Gastein Letter to Paris News. This village is near Salzburg, a town In Aus- tria famous for its old fortress castle and a quaint cemetery on the mountain side, in which are buried seven women, wives of a Very wicked man who murdered them one after the other by tickling their feet till they died. The Emperor William comes to Gastein every year to stay, usually about three weeks. His visit is always looked forward to with much impa- tence, as the benevolence and kindness of the aged monarch are well-established facts. "The emperor's daily life here is very simple. He is no longer strong enough to make long walks, and the roads to all the heights are ex- tremely fatiguing; but he takes his daily con- stitutional along the Kaiser promenade regu- larly as far out as the Kotcha Thal, where there is a little inn with a nice garden ‘looking on to the snowy mountains that divide Bavaria. from Austria. He takes his baths always at the Badenschloss, where he lives, and where every day seven gentlemen receive invitations to dinner, This 1 o'clock meal over the Emperor walks out tothe Schwarze Lize, a cafe-hotel in the woods, where there is a skittle-ground. Here he used to play a game or Lwo, but does so no more. After the last attempt on the Sovereign's’ life Schwarze Lize telegraphed him her congratula- tions on his escape irom death, but her dispatch Was never answered and, she ‘supposed herself forgotten. But the next time wit ‘iam came to Gastein he drove up to the little inn to make his personal excuses to Lize and to present her with a large photograph of himself, with some words written on it by his own hand. The sim- ple woman keeps this gift in her best bedroom and under itis a bronze crucifix before which she Says her prayers, ‘The emperor is kind and agreeable to every- body, and the Arstrian ladies are particularly overjoyed at his friendly ways, as they are not accustomed to such condescension in their court service. But his majesty has very few in- timate friends. One of these is the untess Lehendorif-Stetnart, who lives with her dauzh- tersinthe Villa Solitude. The countess and her husband try to invite around them all those elements of soclety at Gastein that are fit for his imperial presence, and in return tor their kindness he goes to take tea at the villa three or four times every week. ‘The young ladies also get up private theatricals to amuse the old gentleman. A little anteroom divided from the parlor by’a wide glass door is fitted u1 as the stage, and the roles are pared by of cers of the emperor's suite and ladies from so- ciety hereabouts. The countess is highly edu- cated, and ses great mental capacities and accomplishments. She talks to her venera- ble guest, very freely, and on subjects “which others would hardly dare to touch upon. Her villa is very plainly furnished; there 1s no c«r- pet on the floors, nothing but oll-cloth; the chairs and tables ate made of white wood, and the walls are by no means richly gilded or deco- rate ————+0+______ Champions at Chess. The last of the series of European chess tour- naments was brought toa clese last week. In the Copenhagen championship tournament the first prize was won by the famous Danish player, A. Therkelse ‘n the Scottish associa- tion tournament, at Edinburgh, the chief prize is awarded to D. Y. Mills, who won games, Messrs. John and G. B, Fraser tleing for second and third place with 74, games each. In the British counties meeting, at Hereford, which was imhportant on account of its international character and the unusually large prizes offered, the first prize goes to Mi H. Blackburne, the wonderful blindfold player und recognized champion of England, who wins by Sore of clght games, “The veteran, player, hollop, Mr. Bird,” tied with Herr Sci the German champion, for second and third laces with 734 gameseach. Mackenzie will add ourth prize to his Hamburg laurels, while n, the other American player, ties for fifth prize With Gunsbery, who, it will be remem- red, had just carried off chief honors in both the British association and Hamburg meetings. The next great chess contest ts likely to occur in New York, and an American Chess associa tion has been formed to prepare a for the fall eee. Makenzie will yarn shortly accompanied by Biackburne, and Gansberg, who was engaged 16 exhibit the au- tomaton “Mephisto.” Zuckertort, the noted Berlin player, has challenged the champion Steinitz to match in New York for $5,000 and thus set the chess world in a duiier, “Where are Tas check APE Pages AD aaa ier can." They looked in the rack, locked under the seat. ‘check it was lost, pap et Br gereliessce, Sete anyed, " RELIGIOUS NOTES. : CHURCHES HERE AND ELSEWHERE, —The Shiloh associatién, of colored Baptist churehes in Virginia, held a meeting recently 2 coma gag az attended, by Rev. Les South Washington, wiaiea Reena — Rev. Geo. B. Patch he resigned his position in the second auditor's office, in order to devote bis full time and energy to the Unity Presby- terian chureh, of this elty, of which he is pastor ‘and organizer. Mr. Patch’ congregation is warmly attached to him. —The Central Baptist church (colored), for- merly at $d and L, streets northwest, having removed to the building corner of 2d and I Streets northeast, formerly known as Provi- dence chapel, is still under the ministration of Rev. J. W. Roane. It has in two months built up @ Sunday school of about 150. —The 46th anniversary of the Nineteenth- street Baptist church will be celebrated on Sun day, Angust 30. Rev. Walter H. Brooks, the pastor, reach a sermon, review seaadodlacinstntts cesta ts Fe invited to attond the services ye — Rev. F. D. Power, of the Garfield Memorial (Christian) church, was at Bethany park en- campment, near Indianapolis, recently. The Journal of that city, ot the 23d, says: “The af ternoon was given to F. D, Power, pastor of the Vermont-avenue Christian church, in Washing- ton, D. C., who occupied about one hour anda halt in lecturing, without manuscript, on “The Life and Character of Gen. Garfield, late Presi- dent of the United States,” dwelling more par- Heularly on the religious life and character of Gen. Garfield. ‘The lecture was intensely tnter- esting, abounding in beautiful word-pictures, admirably interwoven, and uttered with & voice and intonation that at times caused Foret § an eye in the audience to become dimmed wit tears.” ‘The Journal of the 24th says Dr. Power Preached on the morning of the 23d from Acts, xxvi., 27—Paut’s address to King Agrippa—and gives ‘au outline of his sermon. “Dr. Power was lecture at the Central church of Indianapolis on “The Life and Character of Gen. Garfield” on Wednesday. —A Reformed Dutch church is about to be established at New Windsor, Md. — Rev. Dr. Duryea has definitely declined the Presidency of Union college, New York. —Rev. Thomas Harrison, will be at the Free- Bae district camp meeting at Lena, Il., which ins to-day. — At the Huntington, West Va, M.E. church, fifty persons were recently received into full membership, —A revival is in progress at the Harper's Ferry appointment of the Methodist Protestant church, — Bishop A. W. Wilson, of the M. E. South, and his wife are spending the summer with Dr. Pease, near Ashville, N.C. —At Charlottesville, Va. two handsome church buildings have been erected by the col- ored Baptists, —Rev. 8. J. Fisher, pastor of the Presby- terian church in Swissvale, Pa., has declined the presidency of Biddle University, at Char- lotte, N.C. —H. J. Wilkins, general secretary of the Y. M. C. A. at Woodberry, Md., has resigned, and secepted a call to the general sceretaryship of the association of Truro, Nova Scotia. —John Nicoll, the centenarian, who recently died in Orange, N. J., bequeathed by his will $1,000 to the’ Presbyterian board of foreign missions and $500 to the home mission board, — Rev. Dr. Hatcher recently assisted Rev. Mr. Dillard in a revival meeting at Mountain Plain church in Albemarle county, Va., and there were fifty-five conversions’ reported, and $1,000 was raised to improve the chureh. —Rev. Dr. D. H. Carroll, of Baltimore, has been mainly instrumental in enlarging the Sunday school room of the M. E. chureh, at Mt. Vernon, near Baltimore, contributing $2,000 of the $2,375 require —A new Baptist coflgregation from the Met- ropolitan church,on 6th street east, has been organized under the name of the East Capitol church. ‘The new congregation numbers about 50. Rev. O.M.Miller. a graduate of Columbia uni- versity, has accepted the pastorate, and entered gn is duties. “For the present tey occupy a all. —The Waterford Presbyterian church, in Vir- ginia, dedicated on August 9th an attractive chapel, with a seating capacity of one hundred and fifty, at one of its mission stations, This Is the outgrowth of the Inbors of a student and the pastor, Rev. L. B. Turnbull, ata school house. Alrendy th re are about twenty-five members enrolled. —The Rev. E. D. Campbell, who died in Mon- mouth, Il. on the 15th of August, was the son of Rey. David Elliott Campbell, of India, who, with his wife and two children, Tell In the terr! ble slaughter of captives In Cawnpore, India, June 15th, 1857. ‘The surviving son, who has Just died,'was then at Landour, and thus es- ‘euped death. —A new chapel at the University of Vir- ginla is rapidly approaching completion. The retiring chaplain, Rev. 0. A. Glazebrook, of the Episcopal church, is meeting with much Success 1n Soliciting funds in the north, It will be the handsomest church edifice in that part of the state. Rev. Dr. Georse B. Taylor, late missionary to Italy of the Baptist chureh, is the chaplain-clect. __+ee—____ Convicted by Perjury. AN INNOCENT COUPLE IMPRISONED FOR LIFE ON FALSE TESTIMONY, s A telegram from Detroit, August 25th, says: Application is about tobe made to the state bourd of pardons for the release of Freeman P. Cargan, who is now serving a life sentence in the state prison at Jackson, having been con- victed on perjured testimony of one of the most bratal murders in the history of Michigan. Charles Smith was a well-to-do farmer, living in Chesaning township, Saginaw county. His wife and a young farm bund named Morris Alexan- der made up the regular members of the house- hold, Mrs. Smith's sister was Invited tran New York ‘to visit at Chesaning. She came, bringing her husband, Freeman P.Cargan, with her, On the night of September 12, 1876, soon mith barn after the arrival of the Cargans, the Little was thought was burned to the ground. of that fact, but by a singular coincidence Charles Smith disappeared on thesame night, ‘and no trace of his whereabouts could be found: Suspicion was aroused, and a careful seareh of the charred ruins of the burn was made. Half buried under a quantity of burned beams was the skeleton of a man. Oniy the bones re- mained, and these were’ partially incinerate A post-mortem examination was made of the remains, when it was discovered that the body had been hammered almost toa telly before being burned. Most of the bones were splint- ered into fragments by blows frown a blunt in- strument. The remains were identified as those ‘of the missing Charles Smith. All the inmates of the Smith house were ar- rested on @ charge of murder. Suspicion cen- tered upon young Alexander and Mrs. Smith, It was generally known that the familiarity between the two had excited Smith’s disapp o- bation. | Freeman P. Cargan was the first to be tried before the Saginaw circuit court. During the imprisonment of Alexander and Mrs. Smith they had frequent consultations with the prosecuting officers, which resulted In sev- eral alleged confexsions that freed the two sue- eted parties and fixed the murder on the two ans. On the trial, which was attended with great popular excitement, Mrs. swore that she and Alexander bad long. ec templated the murder of her husband, but neither of them had the courage to dg the deed, She had, theretore, written to_her sister, Mrs. Cargan, in New York, offering $500 if thé latter's “husband would come” on and do the work. Cargan and his wife “had come to Chesaning for the purpose of murder, and deliberately accomplished the object by first clubbing the old man to death and then burning his body. Alexander cor- roborated «Mrs. Smith's story. ‘These confes- sions were 'so conclusive that’ Cargan and his wife were both convicted and sentenced for life, he to the state prison ang. she to the De- troit house of correction, For having turned state's evidence and convicting the Cargans Mrs. Smith and Alexander were rewarded with light sentences, the former being sent to the Detroit house of correction for ten years, During Mrs. Smith's {mprisonment Superin- fendent Nicholson noticed that she was bur- dened with some secret mental affliction, A. cancer of the stomach reduced her physically, ‘find she was soon on her deathbed. She sent for the superintendent, and sald she had a death- d confession to make to him. Her death was 80 near that restoratives had to be administered. to preserve the flickering sparks of life. In dis- connected but perfectly coherent sentenecs she stated that her entire testimony against Car- gan and his wife was perjured. She and Alex- ander had been promised a light sentence if they would give evidence against the Cargans. With the hope of seeing her children again she determined to swear falsely, and invented the story which had sent the ns to prison for Ute, Matron Clarkson also listened to the dying statement. When it had been concluded the HOME MATTERS. VARIOUS SEASONABLE SUGG! ST 29. 1885-DOUBLE SHEET. TOUCHING UP THE YACHTS. Getting the Puritan and Genesta Ready. FOR FICKLES—A BATCH OF THINGS WORTH | SIGNIFICANT CHANGES IN THE ENGLISH BOATS KNOWING, A ep eaete SALAD is made by Regret es ant in thin pi a A tien agar sng esas Grars Warer-Ice is in season, delicious. Take four lemons, half ‘pintor water one pint of St RIG—GREAT INTEREST IN THE RACE—THE LITTLE BETTING EVEN. From the New York Times, August 27th. The Puritan was towed up from Staten Island ‘and is | Yesterday morning and anchored in Wallabout bay, off the Brooklyn navy yard. With her t of sugar, two glasses of | topmast housed, the big white sloop rode grace- STape juice; mix these well, strain and freeze. _| fully at anchor, and was an object of much at- Cxocouare Ick CREAM.—For one gallon of ice | tention to people on the neighboring piers. J. ¢ream grate fine about one-half cake of choco-| Maloolm Forbes and her other owners went to late; make ice cream as for the receipt above; Boston on Tuesday evening and will not return flavor with vanilla and stir in the ch« Creme FRaNGrrast is prepared in this way: Mix three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of flour, ‘three eggs and three crumbled macaroons. Set ‘one pint of milk on the stove, and as soon as it | fect turn the mixture Into it, a little at a time, mixing constantly. it is all in; then remove from the stove, add a few drops of any sort of flavoring essence; let It cool and use for filling. PoraTo Frirrers are very nice for supper, nd are made in these proportions: Three large Potatoes and three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of | sprit was found to be defective, ¢ream: boil the potatoes and beat them until they are light; beat the eggs very light, and mix them with the potatoes, add sail to your taste, beat the cream in last, mould the potatoes into Tound balls, sift flour over them, and fry until brown in hot lard; drain them on = napkin before serving. How To CHoose A WATERMEION.—The ad- vice as to the choosing of a watermelon given by the old colored woman to her son is sound. “When ye hit de million and he say, he am ripe, but if he say jes luff him alon ant, he ain't wuff de pickin’. Cut out a square piece from the blossom end of the melon and pour in half a tumbler of sherry wine. Replace the piece and stand the melon in the ice forsix hours at least before serving. THE ORDINARY SLAT Cor may be converted with little difficulty into a very comfortable lounge. Cover the head and foot pieces with strong canvas or burlaps‘and then cover this with cretonne or any material to suit the fancy. Fasten a valance that will Just clear the ground around the frame, Cover the mattress with the same material and make a round bolster gath- ered at the ends and finished with a rosette or bow. You will then havea sightly plece of fur- niture which may be used asa bed by the ad- dition of a thick comfortable over the mattress Oxp Vinarxta PIcKLE.—Put all the articles desired for the pickle in a Jar—tiny cucumbers, onions, cauliflowers cut in pieces, ears of young corn about an inch or two long, ete. Cover with boiling salt and water, allowing them to remain In it for forty-eight hours. ‘Then take out of the water, place In a thick cloth and_expose to the sun to dry, turning them over occasionally. When thoroughly dry place them in a jar, cov- ered with cold vinegar, to which has been added asmall quantity of tumeric, to color them; let them stand in this for two weeks to drain out the water and plump them; then pour off this vinegar and add that made by the following re- cipe. In three months they will be fit for use. ‘THE ParystcraN’s TEASPOONFUL.—It fs often asked what is the physician’s teaspoonful? It is sixty drops or one drachm. Every family should have a medicine glass on which the ac- curate measures are marked. As there are many teaspoons of many sizes, it 1s somewhat Injudicious to use one that holds more or less than the sixty drops, Indeed it_has often hap- pened that the physician’s prescription has failed In Its eftieacy, or has produced results not desired, because the person who has adminis- edicine has been careless as to the tity. The physician's directions cannot be too carefully tollowed.—N. ¥. Com- mercial, ToCLEAN PraNo Keys—When the white Plano forte keys become discolored we should remove the front full and slip of wood just over them; then lift up each key separately from the front—do not take them out—and rub the keys with a white cloth slightly dumped with cold water, and dry off with a cloth slightly wai Should the keys be sticky, first damp the cloth witha little spirits of wine orgin. Soap or wash- ing powder should not be used. It is worth while keeping a supply of ammonia tn the household Incase we wish to remove finger marks from vaint or require to cleanse brushes or greasy pans. A teuspoonfal in a basin ot warm water will make hair brushes beautifully white; but care raust be taken not to let the backs’ of the brushes dip below the surface. Rinse them with clean, warm water and put in asunny window to dry. Frying PAN-Fisi.—An “amateur house keeper” isin trouble. Her husband is fond of and sometimes catches them and them home, where she spolls them in the cooking. They’ will break in_ pleces, and the united efforts of husband and wite have thus far been ineffectual to prevent it. The very. best way to fry pan-fish, and the way adopted by fishermen’ and cooks, Is to, first, fry some thin slices of sait pork; it is of ho consequence whether you like pork or not, fish mustbe fried in lard anyway, and the fat obtained from the salt poric fs of the best quality. Take the pork out when fried erisp, leave the frsing-pan over the fire to keep it hot. Then, after earcfully dressing the fish, roll them in fndian meal, put them Into the hot fat; turn with eare when one side is browned and’ you will have no more trouble about their falling in pieces, This isthe best way, bu! Ifyou have no pork, or prefer to use lard, use it,butdo not neglect to roll the fish In meal.—New York Post. 3 Worth KNowINe.—It is well to hat elstern water may be purified by char- 1 put ina bag and hung in the water, it salt will remove the stain from silver eaused by eggs when applied dry with a soft cloth, That frult or ruststainson table linen or other white cloths may be removed by soaking in « weak solution of oxalic acid, That hard waters arg to be preferred to soft Waters in the teapot, as the hard waters dis- rive less of the tanniu of the lea That the most effectual remedy for slimy and greasy drain pipes is copperas dissolves und left to work gradually through the pipe. That plaster of paris ornaments may be cleaned by covering them with a thick layer of starch, letting it dry thoroughly and then brushing with a stiff brush, MEDICAL OPINION OF THE BREAD REFORM MovVEMENT.—On the part of English physicians there is said to be a growing disposition in favor of the movement in behalf of “whole meal bread"’—that is, on practical rather than on theoretical and chemical grounds; it being held that the bread which contains all the con- stitu 's of the wheat, except the outer, insolu- ble and irritating portion of the seed, seems, When the appetite for it has boen obtained. t6 be more satisfying afd digestible than the white product found on most tables. It is believed, too, that for children the whole meal is prefer: able for sustaining growth and for building up the skeleton strongly and in perfect form. By an improved process in the production of decor- ticated whole meal, the extreme outer coating of the wheat grain is cleverly removed; and, on this abrading process being completed, ‘the whole of the grain is reduced toa fine flour, in whieh are retained all the substances that are nutritious and digestible. PICKLED WATERMELON Rix. — Equal welzht of rind and white sugar; one-half ounce white ginger to a gallon of pickle; one pint vin- ezar to every pound of sugar; one tables n= ful tumeric toa gallon or pickle; mace, cloves, and cinnamon to taste, Take the thickest rind youcan get, pare off the hard green rind, also the soft inner pulp. Lay the pleces—narrow strips or fanciful cuttings—in brine strong enough to float an egg, and let them remain in itten days. Then soak in fair water, changin; itevery day for ten days. Cover them wit clear water In preserving-kettle, heat slowly, and boil five minutes. “Take them out and plunge Instantly intoice water. Leave them in his until next day. Give them another gentle boll of five minutes in strong alum water. Sim- mer carefully asa hard boll will injure them, Change directly from the alum to the {ced water 0 again’ and do not disturb them for four hours. After a third boll of five minutes let them remain all night in the last water to make them tender, iextday add to enough water to cover the rinds sufficient sugar to make it quite sweet, but notasirap. Simmer the rinds in this ten minutes, throw the water away and spread them upon dishes to cool, Meanwhile prepare a second sirup, allowing sugar equal in weight to the rind, ard half an Ounce of sliced White ginger to a gallon of the pickle, with a eup of water for every two pounds of sugar. When the sugar is melted and the sirup quite hot, but not Bolling, pat in the rinds and simmer until they look quite clear. Take it out, spread upon the dishes again, while you add to the sirup a pint of vine- for every pound of the sugar you have put, in, one tablespoonful of turmeric to @ gallon of pickle; mace, clove and cinnamon to taste. Boll this up, return the rind to it and simmer fifteen minutes, “Put up in glassjars, It will be fit for Stirfor three minutes after | ger, and Robert Brown, the shipemith, to New York until the latter part of next week. The object of bringing the Puritan to Poil- lon's ship yard is togive hera thorough over” fot onder, During tae aftepacoe Me, Burgess, r. Du cs with ‘one of the Poilion’s, Philip Lowe, the rig: examination of every part of ging, a and noted what cl Were Tequired.” There “Will be uo. essential alterations, but there are a number of little things to be done. Mr. Brown said that & part of the Iron work at the end of the: bow- d would be ‘Some of the replaced by entirely new materia blocks were also discovered to. be imperfect, The yacht will be at Poillon’s yard to-day and to-morrow, and will be in sailing trim again on Saturday, ‘During the coming week she will be trled as often as possible in company with the Priscilla, to teat her rigging and give practice to her crew. ‘The dimensions of the Puritan, as farnished by Mr. Forbes, are: Length over all, 93 feet; length on the'water line, 80 feet; beam amid: raught, 8 feet. Her ship, 22 feet 7 incl ight; topmmast 44: tength of juast 1s 78 festin height t fn —- i t; length of boom, 7 fects engi of gat a7 seat is innak feet; le: 47 feet; of spinnaker pole, 64 feet. Her boom isa larger spar than 18 to be found on any full-rigged ship afloat, She has a flush deck, with a rail about one foot in height, and her skylights and hatches are con- structed with the greatest possible saving of weight. ‘The Genesta lay at anchor off Tomkinsville, Staten Island, all day yesterday. It was the intention of her owner, Sir Richard Sutton, to sail her over the course, but the stormy weather deterred him. The opportunity was taken to make the proposed alteration in her rig. Her topmast was shortened three feet and her tu} sall altered to correspond, If the weather ood she will be sailed over the course to-day. |. Beavor Webb, the designer of the Genesta, has given her dimensions and rig as follows: Length over all, 96 fect; length at the load water line, 81 feet; extreme beam, 15 feet; depth of hold, 11% teet; draught, 1: height of mast trom deck to hound: topmast from fid to sheave, 47 boom, 70 feet; gaff, 44 feet; bowsprit outboard, 36 6-10 feet; ‘spinnaker pole, 64 feet; club top sail, 42 feet. It will be observed that the Genesta Is one foot longer than the Puritan on the water line, but her spread of canvas is considerably le Her topmast, having been shortencd three feet, is now only 40, instead of 47, and her total height of mast is only 96 feet, against the Puri- tan's 122 fect. ,Then again her, boom is only 70 feet long, while the io. Puritan's 187 Puritan will therefore have to ailow he What the allowance is cannot be the Genesta has been officially me: this will not be done until the lat next week, probably on Saturday,Se It is safe to say, however, that it wi above or below a minute, cutting down of the Genesta’s topmast ton the eve Of the races has given rise to of conjecture, The reason assigned by her friends is her sails have stretched in this atmosphere and rendered such an altera- tion necessary, but the general opinion is that ief object is to secure a larger time allow- au On this view of the matter it is argued that no better evidence can be had that the Englishmen are doubtful of their ability to “beat the Yankee sloop. — It tainly remarkable that the rig of a which has been so thoroughly tried as enesta should be altered in the slightest degree on the eve of such an important contest. At is worthy of mention, also, in this connection that observant yachtsmen, who waiched the movements of the Genesta on her recent cruise down east, say that, so far from exhibiting the speed reputed to h she seemed to go rather ‘slow for a yacht of ber size and reputation. But 8o much depends on the trim of the sails in making a bout goor not, as her skipper may desire, that it would not be safe to form a judg- ment ‘on those performances, There Is one tning, However, connected with her run from Newport to New Bedford, referred to in the Times of yesterday. If ner skipper did not want to make her Keep up with the New York yachts, for what reason did he set his spinna- ker? ‘This 1s a sail that is never used except for getting all the speed possible out of a boat. There is litue, if any, betting on the races at present. Some money was wagered a few weeks ro at odds largely in favor of the Genesta, but that was before the remarkable sailing qualities of the Puritan bad been proved. Even bets are now talked of, and it is not unlikely that the odds will be in favor of the Puritan before the day of sailing arrives, Certain itis that confidence In the Puritan is growing daily, and with good reason. A thor- oughly scientific yachtsman safd yesterday that. the Paritan was simply a wonderful boat for going to the windw: and was sure to give the Genesta hard work to come out ahead on her strongest point, while In reaching and run- niny sue would in all provability beat the cut- er bac Public interest in the races Is unprecedented. All yachtsmmen who have witnessed every pre- vious contest for the America’s cup on this side of the water say they never saw anything like it. Men who don’t Know a staysail from a club topsail manifest an eagerness to talk about the race in preference to any other subject. ‘Tug boats and steam craft, available for accom- panying the yachts, are already at a premiuin, One party of dry goods men who chartered a ‘eek ago for $300 have been offered already $500 for a release. ———+ee___ In the Paris Jewelry Shops. Paris Letter to Manufacturing Jeweler. Since jardinieres and statuettes, and rare specimens of Dresden and other china have re- placed the time-picee on the drawing-room mantel shelf, it has become necessary to have # clock in some other part of the room. Almost all clegant apartments boast of one of the square portable clocks in a gilded, enameled or porce- lain case, But some women, desirous of keep- ing their guests In complete ignorance of the fleeting hours, have a miniature time-plece conceated In a paper weight or an album, In either case tt is not larger than a watch, and a convex cover of frosted gold will conceal it if set In the center of the binding of an album, or on the back of a portmonnaie. As for the paper weights, they often assume the shape of a bird, and the watch ts hidden beneath the hinged tall or one of the wings. The most beautiful of these useful, dimetelling birds are made, in gold, enrlehed with enamel or precious stones. saw a very handsome mandarine duck with an onyx billand enameled plumage, underneath whieh the watch was concealed. Sometimes a watch is set in the top of a cylindrical scent bottle, but when this 1s the case it often proves a snare and a delusion so far as time keeping is concerned, and is as useless as the watch brace- let. One exquisite trinket of this sort is, how- ever, worth Seseription, ‘and the watch it con- tained was of sutlicient size to render some ser- vice. It is formed in the shape of a bell-like flower with a calix of wrought gold, by which it be worn pendant, tothe neck ribbon or ‘telain the under side is a crystal bottle or igrette; the outer is covered with eurved rows of stones—alternately, rubies and dia- monds—forming asit were, the edges of the folded petals, and set upon @ convex gold case which opensin the center ona spring being touched, and discloses a watch face to view. Flower and animal forms are in greater favor 2. stated until ured, and Tr part of ptember 5. i not be THE DREADED scovrce. Will It Reach This Country? INTERESTING DATA CONCERNIN KRNING “CHOLERA From the New York.San. Up to last Sunday there had been 61,521 deaths from cholera in Spain, since the begin- ning of the epidemic, out of a total of 156,077 cases, At the present rate of its ravages, the deaths in that country will reach 70,000 by the end of this week, and the total number of the attacks nearly 200,000. In Marseilles, Toulon, and other parts of southern France the scourge maintains its foothold. Thus it is clear that while last year the excite- ment and terror over the presence of cholera in Europe may have been greater, the present year has been far more terrible in its ravages. ‘The deaths from this pestilence in Italy daring 1884 were computed at 10,000; but already during’ the present season those of Spain have been six times as many. It is further evident that in spite of modern experience and appliances the present visitation of cholera in Europe is one of the most destructive ever known. The persistence of the epidemic and its great- ly increased fury during the present season are Very suggestive. The notion that because eh id not reach land and America last year, and has thus far not reached these countries during the present year, less likelihood of its attacking them, is not in sccordance with historic facts. The conception Of its progress as being like that of a fire on the prairie, which swiftly passes and leaves its ruin wrought, is wholly erroneous, When it once gains a foothold in a country it invariably occu- Pies it for several years, breaking out again and again in the same or some fresh quarter. Before several of its visits to America it had first ravaged Europe during several successive years, Thus the epidemic of 1832, the first that afllicted America, hed been raging tn Furope nearly two years before it crossed Atiantic, It appeared first at Moscow on the 28th of Sep- tember, 1830. During the entire year 1831 it swept all Europe east of the Rhine, causing probably 100, 000 deaths. in Germany alone, 832 it spread over Great Britain and France, and the deaths in the latter country were est mated at 120,000. It was during this second Year of its European course that it found its way to America, In like manner our second epidemic, that of 1848, had broken out half a dozen years earlier im India, and thence had spread through Persia between’ the Black and Caspian seas to Russia, and then, like its predecessor, was carried to Berlin, Hamburg, Bremen and’ Havre, as well as to ‘the cities’ of southern Europe, and so found its way to this country alter years of de- struction in the Old World. The epidemics of 1854 and 1865, on the con- trary, were fully developed in this country not many mc after their appearance inEurope. That of 1873 reached this country after ample warning, there having been 70,000 cakes of cholera ‘in Germany alone during the preced- Ing year. cite the present epidemic, we know that it began its westward march four years ago; that it was in Egypt in 1883, and in France and Italy in I8s4. Instead of relaxing efforts to keep it away from America on the false theory, at It would e reached this country before. had it been coming at all, we should remember that cholera has repeatedly harassed Europe for years in suceession betore crossing the Atlantic, Even in this country, while we habitually *peak for convenience of the epidemics of 1832, 1548, 1873, and so on, as if these were the only years of their continuance, the uniform rule is Uhat they have raged from three to five years successively, and occasionally much longet The first epidemic in this country did side until the lapse of five years; after its first Appearance it rag me authorities have declared that in New ‘ork city there was scarcely a year trom 1532 to 1854 without well-defined cases of cholera. But the first vear is the one of terror and ex- citement; and If a season tn which 50,000 vic- tims perish is followed by others in which the losses are only 5,000 or 10,000, these latter are apt This unfailing through ns should be a warning to con- Unued vigilance against the pestilence. “The progress of cholera is not only a march, as it is often called, but a conquest and a prolonged oc- cupation, Pneouragement, it is fair to add, ts afforded by the success which bas hitherto attended the corraling of the pestilence in the southwestern, corner of Europe. It is really astonishing that for two years the disease, in spite of Its horrible Tavages, has been Kept, save for unimportant, scattered cases, confined in Italy, Spain and the extreme south of France. It ix almost toomuch to expect that Itcan be held and stamped out. to attract litte notice. there. If this should be done, through vigorous quarantine systems, the triumph id be memorable 3 Lyrics of High Caltare. From the Boston Courier. A FEW SEASONABLE RHYMES, THE FAT MAN REJOICES, ‘The months roll on, the torrid heat Of summers’ almost over: ‘The nights are growing cool again, ‘The int man feels in clover. PUT "EM AWAY. ‘Though Sol sti! glows, his trople strength No longer he can muster; We'll soon pat by the palmteaf fan, Likewise the linen duster. HE KNOCKS THE DUST OUT OF THE BIBLE aGaDr ‘The parson, back to work, refresh ‘Now stirring sermons preacher ‘The girls ure coraing home again In bevies from the beaches, MISSYENT AND WELL-SPENT Tk, Some sighing over precious time ‘Ther've wasted in flirtations, And some, who've hooked their fish to make ‘Their wedding preparations, THEY'VE GoT Home. Now people who've been “living back,” ‘Avoudine observations, te ‘Throw open wide their blinds in front, ‘Which iieans hoe from vacation. NO MORE HIGH LIFE BELOW STAIRS. From beach and mountains, families Are coming home in dozens, And from the ki'chen, servant maids Are clearing out their cousins. KISSED BY OLD SOL, ‘The pretty cirls who went away With checks as rea us cherries, ‘We notice coming back to-day’ ‘With faces brown as berries, ‘THE MISTAKE SHE MADE. ‘The damsel who's been bathing at the beaches, at the And) batulng, too, in very scanty clothes, scanty jelothies, Has found the wisdom that experience teaches, "peri- ence teaches, Since she couldn't find a lover who'd propose, who'd Prop sse, And she murmurs, while her tears are fast descead- ing, fast descending, And iihatiently she stamps her little foot, little foot, That her Summer might have hada different ending, ferent ending. Itshe'd but worn a padded bathing suit, bathing sult. ON THE TALE SHELL. About this season of the year “The public heart with Joy sting; ‘The reason, too, 's very clear: ‘Next month will bring us oysters, QUATRALNS. It's hope that cheers us with tts raye ie at cheers ts with tts pana makes lites pathway right, eoap the washefwomal nays “That makes her labor light, ‘11s TRUE, "315 Prey. ‘Mixed with the sweetness there's some gall ‘The preity girlvare angels 5 nul they're wedded wives, than ever, Not content with the heads of ani- mals, such as a cat or a dog in clustered dia- monds, a horse or mule in diamonds with gold bridle, the entire animal is made into a brooch. For instance, a mule in small diamonds, fur- nished with a puck saddle seemingly filled with pearls of different colors; an elephant in silver set with diamonds, except on the head and feet, which are chased; a gold horse treated in the same way; and a monkey with face, hands and tail of oxidized silver, the body only covered with diamonds, A piece of mother-of-pearl, or half a rough, irregular pearl, makes a good body fora duck or stork, the wings and head bel set with the same precious stones, and the feel made of gold. A beautiful spray forthe hair or low bodice consists of a piece of acacia flower, in pink translucent enamel, with a leaf in diamonds setin silver. In the same shop I saw a brooch in the simple form of a daisy plant all a’grow- ing and a’blowing in diamonds, likewise set in fall’ brooches, ‘sprays of “ily ofthe-valley, smal 3] > single blossoms of —pimpernel chick-wreed, Speedwell, and heather, in gold’ or silver with, ‘iainonds or eae a jowers—alternate! with a pearl heart, and clustered diamonds on silver—make use in two weeks, ——+e+—___ After Vacation. ‘From the Boston Budget. Broke, broke, broke, I'm home from vacation now! Broke, broxe, broke, Woman seemed apparently resigned to death, She resolutely closed her mouth, and never Spoke again, Superintendent Nicholson is satisfled of the rt truth of the dying deciaravion® Numerous clic cumstances Diver onurred which corroborate it in many particulars, ‘appearance of honesty and straightforwardness im every line of his tay the mest affectionate According to Nature of the 13th instant, i1- formation received of the weather in Northern Norway to the middleof July shows that it had ld, the shest temper- 8 dsgreee ts 40.8 degrees “i atinbuted. to the from the ions on the Ameri- can side the by right Tato the Gul tesa, which bos The tat the of to shows, Ons aay tat SBE J go with you, my Concord malar” “Hata wiichnew ot Bowness a ane ald, “What is. ‘Concord maid?” ‘The amces of tobe: sin so sade to te thencenes Sf therdooan ae sa his Pretty brooches and bracelets. Flowers are also combined with insects. Here bulrush in diamonds with a small enamelled dragon-f; upon it; there a spider, with a piece of pel or Labrador stone for Bis pod yes cit ing with Se ar oa new 4 in single Wers orchid and the The LOVELY WOMAX. ‘Her volce’s music hus been sung ‘By pocts nota few. ADVICE TO HUSRAXDS. Discretion’s valor's better part 3 wisest And ‘tis the Whene'er your wife i mad, to start mm town to see a man. THE LATEST CRAZE. And drives away. Ppp needles and knliting a pair ‘silk hose for her “ 3 Saratoga Correspondence N. Y. World. One of the most peculiar looking men at Saratoga is John Graham, the noted criminal lawyer. He is veryshort and stout. His large round head is set very low upon a thick neck ils hair is aeurling blonde mass, which falls so thickly from under his light gray black-banded derby as to look like a am pe = ae eh the of HAY cxoeption = grayin his round double chin, Hine 5 in froatot oun be thick hawks Pe herder about six inches down iM 3 iu F F I a“ GERMAN Sana BEST GERMAN MER! ‘Making this fie most ypiaint. Tshallalways endeavor Medicine for sale “ovis PEIvoLD a eee os are. ewes Banimore, Ma all Haitim. Coxcextnate> CRAB ORCHARD WATER ‘THE GREAT RENOVATOR USED, RECOMMENDED AND INDORSED BY PHYSICIANS ALL OVER THE WORLD, THE ONLY REMEDY THAT ACTS ON ALL OF THE GREAT ORGANS OF THE HUMAN SYSTEM THE LIVER. THE KIDNEYS THE STOMACH. THE BOWEIA —-SURE-SAFE-SPEEDY.— POSSESSES THE COMBINED MEDICINAL VIB- TUBS OF ALL THE FAMOUS NATU- RAL WaTERS. CONSTIPATION, SICK HEADACHE, DYSPER STA are promptly cured by it. We control all the pro- ducts of these famous springs—both Salts amd Water, Algenuine preparations bear the “Crab Apple” Mark on the labels. Get the ine “C brand. Concentrated Water, 33 cents; Genuine! in sealed packages, at 10 cents and 25 centseach. CRAB ORCHARD WATER ©O., Proprietors, SIMON N. JONISS, Manager, aplsthata Loulsville, Kr. MM MM PEE NN W PETE REE EF PEER EL 8 She MM MEEKN NN KN = ‘the continuous stream of ‘electricity permeating through the parts must restore them to healthy ao on, ‘There is no mistake about this instrument, ‘Years of use have tested it, and thousands of cures are testified to, Weakness from Indiscretion, In” capacity, Lack of Vigor, Sterlity—in fuct,any trouble of these organs is cured. Do not confound this with electric belts advertised to cure all ills from head te lowed. It NEVER Fanta, The hated with the Specific, it GOLDEN SPECLFIC O0,, Proprietors, ‘For Saleby R. K. HELPHENSTINE, EBEITT HOUSE DRUG STORE, Corner 14th and F streets; also corner 14th strest and ‘Vermont avenue, Washington, D.C. Call or write for circulars and full particular, 19<0 [UP ona stare lorren = We do hereby certity that we supervise the arrange. ments for ait the Manthey tnd on The Fouisiana monthly. A SPLENDID OPPORTUNITY TO WIN A FOR. . TENE NINTH GRAND DUAWING, CLASS TAR THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC. NEW GKLEANB, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 1885. Asst’ Mouthiy Drawing. CAPITAL PRIZE, €75,000, 200,400 Tickets.at Five Dollars act, List ow Piel J CAPITAL PHIZE.—... 2 do 2 PRIZES OF 5 do 10 do 20 do 200 do B03 Ge ‘do 1000 ao APPROXIMATION ——— 9 a 1967 Prizes, amOUMINE 10 newneeee enn. 205 500 Application for ‘Office of the Cony ‘further, addrem. “POSTAL NOT! or New York by all sums of $5 and upwards MA. Dal New Orleans, ‘abd address. Make P. O. Money Orders payable istered Letters to, ‘NEW ORLEANS NATIONAL BANK, on New Oriana, La LOUISIANA NATIONAL BANK, STATE NATIONAL a panenpoenl GERMANIA NATIONAL a New Orleans, La OF = aoe, PHILADELPHIA, DECEMBER 6, 1886 MESSRS. EISNER & MENDELSON, SOLE AGENTS OF JOHANN HOFFS