Evening Star Newspaper, October 6, 1883, Page 3

Genuine Tailor-made Suits—The Novel and Decorative Styles—The New Hon- nets—Fashion in Steeves and Arms. From Our Own Correspondent. New York, Oct. 5.—Fine wool Is so lovely for ‘Wear, so sanitary in its effects, that it is pleas- ant to see how largely it is pressed into the ser- vice for autumn suits and outdoor garments. This we owe to the introduction by wealthy “traveled” women of the English tailor-made suit and its gradual adoption among us. Within the past few years several fashionable tailors have added ladies’ departments to their estab- lishments, where genuine tailor-finished cos- tumes are modeled after those of Redfern or Benjamin or Cobbe, ot London, and fitted with the * care and exactness. The fashions in these differ but little from year to year, and here show less ¥ y than abroad, for the num- ers is restricted and consists largely of ladies distinguished tor quiet, reflned taste, who do not go into the “fancy” styles, h are admiseable for country houses, shoot- oxes, Alpine climbing, and the various chich “tailor” suits are put by hionable denizens of the London world. st of a good tailor-made suit, well-fitted | anid finishe ¢ —the difference | ing uses to s from £90 to in the fineness of cloth and quality of satin lin- ing rather than In cut, design or workmanship. The costume consists of four pieces, skirt, jue and outside coat, made like a gen- k- coat; if a Newmarket (long quired the cost would range from But for these prices, beginning at £90, the fine cloth is mounted upon a silk skirt lining; the basque is lined with pure twilled silk and the coat with solid satin. The finish Is silk feather stitching, and a soft douvled gailoon, whieh only forms a cord upon the edge where It is used. The design is varied to suit different tastes; but in genuine tailor-made suits everything is real; basques and cloaks have pockets which, though not con- spicuous, are put in with neatness and solidit: and therefore can be used. Vests are not “d, they are vests (or waistcoats) and it little pockets like those of men. Ti » outfit is permanent in its character, and though the price we have to pay for it restricts its usefulness yet it is doing a it exercises upon popula and the cultivation of the tastes of the in This influence is very marked this season. Cloth dre cloth suits, and cloth are adopted by the best and cloth coats, 0 silk and “fur ed ” promise Y, ticularly where kes wool welcome in any shape six mths of the year. New “fancy” woolen fabrics are ribbed and intersected with Ines of colored silk or gold threads in indeserib- able w: but these are not used by tailors to any great extent—not at all except to order— the fine cloth in solidcolors and darkest shades being always considered more distinguished. “Fancy” suitings change from season to season; bring fancy prices—prices wheih bear norelation to their real value—while t are a “novelty,” but drop to “less than cost” when the season is over and they are succeeded by other fanciful fabrics to catch the eye and extract money from the purse on the score ofbeing the “latest thing out.” Much better than ribs or mixtures are the Yielding yet resisting stockingette, or twilled cloth, resembling stockingette, of which the finest jersey jackets, tunics, suits, and some of the new cape-cloaks are composed. The cloth is thick, warm, rouzh-finished on the under- side. yet light in weight and not clumsy. When made into jerseys it is faced with silk or satin, the pockets put in tailor fashion, and the finish- ing executed with the utmost neatness. The jersey Jacket has taken on a most singular vouu cular because it has been before the public several years; but only recently broken out into this apparently causeless epidemic. Perhaps it took this length of time to discover its virtues: anyhow it must possess virtues, and of ® positive kind. or it would not have won its way to so marked a degree of popular favor. There is a great difference between the cost of a peo and the cost of a braided tunic of the same ind. A lady who had finished an order for braiding an hundred dozen of fine cashmere Jer- seys recently, received an order for another hundred dozen from the same firm. The price charged forthe braided jersey was €10. | Ladies who can braid and embroider their own jerseys bad better make a note of this. A new model of a cloth dress just received re- minds one of the “combination” pieces of fur- niture which are capable of somany transforma- tions. This suit has a Watteau dra which ean be changed at a touch into a searf-like dol- man: and is, t . thought more dressy for ele without further addition But the charm of the cloth suft ysseemed to me itssimplicity. its direct- its neatness, its freedom from superfluous drapery, and if it is to take on all the fussiness which it is customary to put into other mate- Fials, it would annihilate both suit and wearer. THE WATERMELON AND MUSHROOM STYLES. As far removed as possible from the quiet re- finement of the best tailor-made costumes are the samples of goods and models of dresses that are shown asthe freshest creations and importa- tions of this year of dire events, 1883. “Who 1s to wear them?” one asks in halt admiration, half disgust. Surely tne woman who could array herself in these gorgeous fields of pine cones, enlarzed funsi and vertebrale phenom- ena, varied with split fruits of the earth spread out like a dessert on platters of brilliant majolica, ouzht to be capable of great things if her eneryies and courage are ever turned in any practical dtrection. ~ That dress is to receive an impetus from the resent rage for art and interior decoration is to but one would have supposed it ed tothe stately Elizabethan nd trains and stomachers; to and massive breastplates of er and upholsterer and the mahog- * and grand staircases, ive stone work form picturesque itled procession, through the XiVth, XV and XVith centnri What may be called the commonpiace of dre: in with the sacque in the latter half of the 111th century, drifted into the short gown of the thritty grandmother of the present generation, and has held its place in one form av styles; to the rutls e rey the powdered he Jewels—not to such in velvet, plush and satin, beautiful tapestried effects roduce perfectly the em to demand the res- unbroken and stately designs — designs sut i to the display of the fab- rie: not, rs, in Which the fabric has been cruel ed and sacrificed to the trivial and ign. will select from among the u fabrics they may find some capable nal and effective treatment; but they must not leave the making up to the hap-hazard treatment of the conventional modiste, no mat- ter how creat her reputation; for the majority of her customers want oniy conventionalism stronzly accentuated, and “ideas” are not re- quired of he: ‘A novelty in robe dresses looks Ike the deco- Fative corner in a 6th avenue dry goods store. It consists of fine cashmere. upon which artifi- ¢ial flowers in plush or velvet are mounted and outlined, tne leaves being formed of chenille executed in arrasene stitch. These high art compositions are a cross between a plush work- basket and a raised-flower mounted umbrella holder in the latest style of decorated pottery. ‘Yet they sell at $250 each. Some of the designs take the form of a trellis work of brown che- nile, upon which trailing vines and hanging blossoms in green chenille and shaded velvet are inade very realistic. The method of orna- Meutation is reproduced upon some of the im- Dorted tulle and gauze dresses for evening wear. NEW ARRIVALS AND STAY-AT-HOMES. There is a distinct difference at this season In she appearance of the residential population of New York who crowd the streets and form & solid phalanx three deep before every “show” window. The women have elther just returned from Europe or the coun- try, or ere visiting en passant. The firet wear traveling dresses, neat, tallor- made; high Henry II. hats of felt, or oval walk- ing hats, and gauntlet gloves of undressed kid. The -at-homes in from the couutry look as if they had dropped out of a garden party or a game of lawn tennis. Taking advantage of the warm weather which never tails to visit us at this season, young ladies, with the delightful freedom and independence which every one ad- mires so much in American ete, pee nenade the sidewalks in the ‘ut y dress which has been a feature of the summer, the filling in at the neck being “simple” white muslin, the rest of the costume red, blue or striped. eos filling in would be red and the body part dark blue or stone color. The making would make little diderence if the color was sober and uniform; but such kittenish styles and contrasts on stalwart young women of. twenty-five to thirty suggest the absence of that necessary sixth sense which it is the business of social culture to impart to its willing subjects. Others dist-lay shot silk or Hght figured fabrics trimmed with broad cuffs, collars, revers, or deep ruffles (and plenty of them) in trimming lace. The effect is kaleidoscopic without the addition of the “‘cousins,” whose attire is usually nonde- script or else spick-and-span new, just taken from the forms in the warerooms and transferred to the bodies ot the wearers, who at least teel that they have made themselyes equal to the occasion. THE PUZZLING NOMENCLATURE is one of the nuisances of shopping, and is fast growing Into an evil that should be checked rather than encouraged. There 1s nosuch thing now as establishing a reputation for any partis- ular style or class of goods, for thongh the ma- terial and method of manufacture may remain the same the nomenclature Is changed every season in order to satisfy the supposed demand for novelty. For example, the heavy reps have izon” cloth; theJottomans, “* musco- vite ;” the chene silks, ‘‘onyx;” and the broken check, the “duplex.” The smooth small checks, by the way, dark green with wine color, dark brown with'dark peacock green, dark blue with garnet, and cinnamon red with shades of old gold. are very pretty over plain or kilted velye- teen skirts; or may be combined with the dark shade of the check in solid color, either in cloth or winter surah. It is sometimes provoking, Sometimes agreeable, to recognize an old friend or acquaintance under a new high sounding name; but if it had not fallen to him with an estate or means to sustain its dignity we should be apt to suspect the existence of a question- able motive for relinguishing the old one. Ladtes who send toa distance for their mate- Tials and costumes must be subject to many of these surprises. THE “OPENING” HATS AND BONNETS. “What are the leading styles?” Is the stereo- typed question addressed to the sttendants at the gorgeous millinery openings who are, how- ever, themselves anything but gorgeous—pale, young, or stout, middle-aged women usually, dressed in black, which serves as the best foil for the mixture of color " which they are sur- rounded, and (except grey) is the only hue they can wear with which all kinds of bonnets will agree duri the “trying on” process to which they are often subjected. The answer given to the simple query has become as stereotyped as the question itse 1, everything is worn, and you can suit your hat to anything you choot Looking about it seems as if “eyvery- thing” was worn; or would be by the time these “creations” had changed hands. But by and by one bezins to see that it is as If one’s butcher should make an immense flourish over having all the meats on the face of the earth to choose from, and when you visit his shop expecting to find something quite new, and see the great show of joints and cuts, and ribs and steaks and chops, you feel a pang of something like disap- pointinent at having to fall back after all on the old beet and mutton for your prece de resistance. This is precisely what happens at one of these parvo in multum exhibitions: the world seems all before you in the shape of hats and bonnets; but when you get rid of the glamour of the gilt and filugree’ “novelties,” which are nothing more than a few theatrical effects turned loose, you find the staples are your old friends’ felt’ and yelyet. the crowns high this season, the brim straight; or, if it isa bonnet. forming a some- what broad high poke—the “Calash” shape modified. The *Mandeville” is the largest hat of this kind. It 1s in black or wine-colored velvet, with a silver cord around the crown, pearls or cord upon the edge of the brim, an an eromous plume of soft, white-curled ostrich feathers, which accentuate the size of the hat and the height of the crown. The name may be complimentary to the beautiful viscountess who is famous for the size and picturesque style of her hats. The most ladylike poke is of solid velvet in any shade of color, black and gray being the most popular; the brim edged with gold cord and a long scarf of black or white lace laid plain over the brim and forming long brides or strings, which are fastened with smali pins of hammered gold or gilt; but they do not tarnish. The lace is handsome, white or black Spanish guipure, and though not costly does not look cheap.’ Velvet may be quietly ar- ranged in folds, and with a large buckle and no other trimming needed; but usually a wing and @ group of ostrich tips are added. Colored velvet bonnets look well when trimmed with velvet flowers and leaves beauti- fully shaded in the color, and finished with lace or strings. Feather and flowers together are a mistake, The small capote and all theoldshapes Teappear in bonnets, the principal difference ob- servable is the “rise” in the crown of the hats. Plush is used for the “pressed” bonnets and hats; those that come blocked and covered, ready for trimming, and are made and sold like cot- tage furniture. by the hundred dozen; but it is rarely seen among the special and individual styles. Old blue, black, or grey velvet bonnets are sometimes very effectively trimmed with a group of feathers, self-colored, and a scarf of. eastern design, composed of a flexible gold net work, crossed ‘with a silken stripe, narrow, and In alternating colors. But of these there are not many duplicates. Ottoman ribbons are much used, and a new style of pompon forms cluster of spiked leaves made of chenille. The little girls carry off all the honors this season so far as picturesque headgear is con- cerned. For their benéfit the old fashioned Ca- Jash has been revived; the large soft crown is made fn Ottoman satin; the cabriolet. brim is in velvet, the garniture is a row of loops of narrow Ottoman satin ribbon laid diagonally on the vel- vet, and alarge group of ostrich feathers set high against the crown, but curling over the edge of the brim. These are principally made in white and strawberry or Indian red. SLEEVES. This distinguishing feature of the dress deserves @ separate paragraph, for the reason that it pre- sents perhapsthe most distinctively novel ideas, and marks the difference between the new and the old,—the fashionable and the unfashionable, the artistic and the commonplace—more tnan any other part of the costume; and thisis true of cloaks and outside garments as well as mere “gowns.” Two years ago French dress-makers dealt most contemptuously with the full sleeve. It was an English asthetic invention, and would never be “accepted.” Ladies who had brought home dresses with these obnoxious appendages had them taken out and replaced, it was said. with the usual sheath like continuations. But the French dress-makers oyerthe water seem to have accepted the situation and emphasized it. It has been stated many times in these letters that the sleeve is of the greatest importance in giving “race and distinction to a handsome dress—to the general ensemble of the tigure. This can be seen by any one who will take the trouble to study __ historical and antique costume, and it is one of the secrets of all women who have been successful in the art of dress. The ‘coat’-sleeves began its latest career about thirty-five years ago, and has maintained its ascendency, with slight ir- ruptions, in favor of puffed aud “flowing” and “angel” sleeves’ever since. It is useful, but commonplace, and it well shaped, and room enough allowed over the elbow, and at the top of the arm for free movement, excellent for the street and evening wear. But it is not pictur- esque and not distinctive; It acquires a certain ainount of “style” of a rigid and severe kind by being mounted high on the shoulder; but if is never made distinctive or cS or capa- ble of much variation until fulinessin some way has been imparted.to it. This is one of the rea- sons for the introduction of the lace sleeve for evening wear, and the getting rid of the sleeve altogether from evening dresses. But this last device is found impossible, with the present fashion of high and very short shoulders. The length of bare arms and the exposure ot its hol- low and the socket in which tt moves, destroys everything in the shape of Llusions and reveals too much of the machinery of the human form to ee the imagination a chance to consider it divine. Nothing can be conceived more vulgar- izing than such @ display, and one can hardl imagine that any woman would subject herself to the comments she would naturally excite without having passed through an experience that would render her indifferent to the impres- sion she would be eee to produce. A well autnenticated story is told of a fash- ionable married woman—not a beauty, but with superb arms—who in “‘full” evening 4 bust exposed and arms bared to the shoulder, left a rivate party to ‘“‘see” a “French” ball “just for fan,” with a young unmarried man who washer cavalier for the evening. The license of the dancers and the sort of fun ehe saw made her feel that she had gone too far and done perhaps an imprudent thing, so she endeavored to beat. a hasty retreat. Nearthe door she encountered aman in full Laser dress, a stranger, who slapped her familiarly on her white flesh, mating at the same time an insulting remark. Before the words were out of his mouth his burly form was stretched on the floor by a well directed blow from the hand of the gentleman in attendance. But who was most to blame? The brute who simply acted out his own coarse instincts, or the lady who go misrepresented the refinement, the intelligence, the purity of her sex and station as to be mistaken for one of its most degraded examples, I have told this sto! with great reluctance simply because imagine 1s the world of fashion, become con- fused in their own ideas of what is and modest and fitting for a good woman and follow 8 bad leading in defiance of their own better in- stincts and sounder judgment. The newest sleeve consists of the revival of one that was very fashionable forty years ago. at a time ‘ cers” were in fashion, and also braiding and braided embroidery as ornamenta- tion. It is arranged as a eeries of falls or ruf- fies, one above another, and is not only suscep- tible of ceful and diversified effect, but adapts itselfto the present cut of the bodice, and adds much to its distinction. Epaulettes, stuffed bows of ribbon with ends, orn- ments connected by cords with others es the walst, are all employed to decorate tie top of the sleeve and emphasize the brevity of the distance—three inches—between the top of the armhole and the standing collar at the throat. The dificulty in cutting a sleeve is to get suff- cient length over the top of the arm to make it easy and free in movement; and to do this it is absolutely necessary to have some fullness. Of course some ladies and some dress makers will have as little as possible; others who under- stand how to dispose of it, lay it in diagonal folds which are brought together on the inside of the arm toward the front, and are finished with a soft rosette of silk or ribbon. Satin Duchesse, the new radzimer silks, rich brocades and velvets yield gracefully to such gentle manipulation. The terraced sleeves are better adapted to lace and thin evening materials—tulle, gauze, and the like—but lovely effects are produced in embroidered India silks and nun’s veiling. and also in Canton Coe ay which lends itself especially to softly falling effects. “PRETTY ARMS.” A girl of seventeen, who signs herself withthe heading to this paragraph, writes an appealing little letter asking for advice, and reciting Teasons why she should wear short sleeves or sleeveless evening dresses; the principal one of which—in fact, the only one, is that she -has pretty arms and wants to show them. Oh! Pretty Arms—do you not krow that love- ly white arms are much more longed for when they are suggested, not seen. Are pretty arms your only beauty? Is there any reason why you should expose them to the garish light to the Tude gaze of the vulgar and not other pretty parts of your body? Do you not know that it is not the man who truly loves you, or who would be likely to truly love you, who would see with pleasure this display of “‘velyet softness,” this exposure to the eyes, and touch of uninterested and scoffing spectators? _4 man who Is capable of true love has an instinctive reverence for its object—to him she is a shrine not to be ap- proached indifferentiy—not to be thought of or spoken of unworthily. It is in the power of young women to always preserve this reverence in the minds of men, and it Is infinitely better to do this than excite impure thoughts, or pander to degrading pas- sions. Dear, “pretty arms,” I know you have no evil in your thoughts: I know how blissful it Is to be young, to love life and gayety. to have pretty arms, and be capable of giving pleasure; but do not be in haste; cultivate your resources; do not distribute them or lavish them on the indifferent and unworthy. Bye-and-bye you will wish you had more, and ten times more, to bestow on some one person— and if he is such as he ought to be, he is cultl- vating himself at this moment for you—growing in splendid stature in manhood, in honor, in strength, in loyal devotion to his most cher- ished ideals; and would not it bea pity if you missed him on account of your bared arms— thoge pretty arms that you think are capable of 80 much execution? For the higher and truer he knight the more sacred will be the faeal lady of his love, and he will never look for her in one who wears her arms outside her sleeves for popinjays to peck at. Iwish it were possible to make “Pretty Arms,” and all young women see how unutter- ably debasing it 1s to set fashion and prettiness above all other considerations—health and even morality. Think fora moment of some of the fashions of to-day—the glove-titting bodice, the panters (which emphasize the hipa), the revived crinolette and the puffery at the top of the skirt—the suggestiveness of the whole ensem- ble, which seems made to accentuate the differ- ence in sex, and which we should consider too indecent for wear without a cloak to cover It— if we were not accustomed to following any lead—and believing that whatever is in fashion, at any rate, Is right. ‘Think of this subservience in weakening the influence of women with good men! It is the might, the place, the sacred duty of women to supply men with ideals and aspirations ; to in- Es their manhood with something nobler than the ambitions, the strivings, the selfishness that enter into their daily lives; but what insp!- ration can they find in a woman who yields her- self unreservedly to every caprice of French milliners barbers and courtesans; surrounds herself with their influence as with an atmos- phere, and does not dream of asserting an indi- viduality of her own. even though her own wo- manhood and the welfare of future generations depend upon it. Remember, my “Pretty Arms,” it 1s this ques- tion of dress and exposure of the charms of agen that Hes at the root of everything that ls dishonorable, weak and hurtful to women, and also of whatever is noble, strengthening and elevating. No woman can possibly have made any great advance in the line of self-help and achievement who has not, more or less, eiancipated herself from the bondage ot her clothes—who does not value the. sacred rights and dignity of her womanhood more than the vulgar admiration extorted by striking dress and a liberal display of personal attractions. DECORATIVE AND USEFUL NOVELTIES. Among the novelties in jewelry and fancy articles are new pins for the lace or ribbon at thethroat. One in silver representsa half moon, with the profile of a man set in the hollow of the disk—the crescent thrown across a silver bar which is furnished at the ends with stars. Another shows a small bronzed head of a horse, with a tiny gold whip twisted about it, a hoof forming the handle; this head is wedged in between narrow bars, forming the frame of the pin. A still more curious design consists of a sell plumed hat in bronzed Metal laid across a sword in its scabbard; the sword draws out and can be used asa pin, Its handle forming an ornamental head Ande- pendent of the brooch. Leaflets in colored silver, with Rhine pebbles, like dew-drops upon them, are very pretty. only the drops are too large, they would look more natural if they were finer and smaller. a The showy gilt and gilded jewelry is now quite out of date—all the designs are copied from the antique and reproduce frescoes, ancient coins filagree work in metals—antique heads and the like. ‘There are Japanese fans, in miniature, of hammered metal: with raised fig- ures ot gold, and which torm very pretty orna- ments; and medallion pendants which might have been dug out of some old Creton tomb, so completely do they reproduce in appearance these relics of a lost race. Hoofs are to play an Important part in fancy wares this season. Ottomans for receptions are covered with skins of beasts with their hoofs for standards. Small hoofs are used as handles to new blotters, made like garden rollers, the paper passed around a central bar set in a brass frame, removable and _replenishable as often as required. A hoof set lengthwise serves as a bar for a bronzed bird whose head opens to admit ink; on either end are bronzed candlesticks, so that the whole serves as a complete night writ- ing apparatus where gas is not available. A very handsome new hall decoration consists ofa horse's head, a noble specimen, full caparisoned, the richly-mounted harness serving to suspen & beautiful beveled glass ina leather frame, handsomely ornamented. New photograph frames rey nt windows, some rustic, with vines and flower-box, others curtained off, the upper part forming the cor- nice. There is, at last, a pencil for marking on linen, said to the invention ot a Japanese chemist, which requires no preparation; can be carried in the pocket, and used any time. This ig indeed a boon. Traveling dressing-bags have become articles of luxury. A lady recently ar- rived from London, brought one of these harm- Jess little affairs, carried in her hand as a reti- cule, for which she had paid fifty guineas in London. It was crocodile leather. and a cara- van in miniature, filled with an innumerable company of exquisite tollet appliances in cut- glass, solid silver and ivory. ENNY JUNE. ——__s90 ‘The Slavo Trade Flourishing iz Egypt ‘From the London Standard. Caio, Sept. 20.—Some time ago I announced that one of the first actions of the government would be a vigorous effort to stamp out the slave trade; and now the work seems to have commenced In earnest. Quite recently the gen- darmery succeeded in capturing near Assiout a large caravan, consisting of about two hundred and fifty slaves, and now they have arrested Ali Saldi, the chief slave dealer in Cairo. He will be tried by court martial In a few days. Among the slaves found in his possession were six females—three Circassians and three n Five of them received their treedom, but the orieaspiorceongt Kesemm re lately refused accept fered iberty, her am- bition being, no doubt, to become the’ slave of some haben An lan Pasha. It is not known. whether the future of the five liberated girls has been pro ; in fact the whole affair is half enveloped in » Which isby no means satisfactory. : FOOD ADULTEBATION AT HOME AND ABROAD, es A Startling Exhibit—yore Legislation Needed. oT From the Philadelphia Press, , A writer in a recent number of the “Revue des Deux Mondes” 4raws up and analyzes a bill of fare such as the chemigts of Paris are wont ‘to provide for the second-rate hotels and res- taurants of that earthly heaven. Butter from milk, coffee from berries, wine from grapes, vinegar from wine, 4ll the products of the vege- tableand mineral } lom which in the good old times were used,for human food have now apparently grown out of date, and gastronomy has become a cheinical»science, Tapioca is made out of potatoes heated in copper and slightly tinctured with acetate of copper. The same metal gives the beautiful green to pickles. Fish are kept in @ state of preservation for some time by embalming them with a mixture of chloride of zinc and acetate of aluminum. The butter used tor the sauce for ealmon or tur- bot thus preserved {8 made of flour, starch, tatoes, cheese, mixed with veal fat, suet. lard or other fatty substances, weighted with clay, chalk, gypsum, silicate of potassium, sulphate of barytm, colored with chromate of lead, or a “tinctorial paste” of various poisons. Chocolate is manufact from rice, flour, peas and beans, olive or almond oll, roasted nuts, sawdust, cinnabar, red oxide of mercury, minium, chalk and other mineral substances. Currant jelly is made of a marrow extracted from a Japanese sea weed; a little beet juice or carmine is added for color, glucose for sweeten- ing, and a spoonful of syrup for a apuquet, and no one can tell it from that made from currants. Candies are manufactured from glucose colored with chrome yellow and other salts of lead, ver- milion or sulphate ofmercury, Schecle’s green or arsenite of copper, cobalt blue, orpiment, verdi- gris and gamboge. Prussian blue, oxide of zinc, ultramarine, cochineal, indigo, and the aniline colors are comparatively harmless. “A box of bon-bong,” says our author, “is always a box of colors a little sugared.” When it comes to drinkables the chemist is still more successful in hts adulterations. Coffee used to be made of starch, of potatoes, wheat, oats, carrots or beets. The English now excel in preparing real Government Java from caramel, tan-bark, mahogany eaw-dust and baked horse's liver. Doctor Hassall, of London, found only three specimens of pure coffee in thirty-four samples. In Bremen and Hamburg the astute Germans manufacture the genuine Havana cigar boxes, the lining paper, the pretty ribands which tie them, and even the nails which fasten them. A leaf ot genuine tobacco wraps up oak leaves and the unraveled ends of old cigars. Sent to Paris, they are stamped and taxed. FRENCH ADULTERATION. The soda water or seltzer to take with the brandy is apt to be poisoned with lead, copper or brass. In order to cure the indigestion caused by these incongruous mixtures the doc- tor advises the melancholy human ostrich to take pepsine. Pepsine isthe digestive princi- ple extracted from the stomachs of various ani- mals. The indefatigable chemists of Paris now add to a small basis of the real substance gela- tine, glucose, glycerine and salicylic acid, which prevents fermentation. Quinine is found to con- tain boracic acid, chalk and magnesia, phosphate and sulphate of soda and nitrate ot potassium, benzoic and stearic acid, glucose, sugar of lea and other poisons too numerous to mention. Of course these examples do not halt exhaust the list of illegally manufactured foods, arinks, and drugs. There is scarcely a thing sold which is not imitated to the detriment of the con- sumer or purchaser. This matter of adultera- tion ia one of the most important questions of the day. {fin Europe, where eminent chemists are enlisted by government systematically to analyze all goods sold; if in countries where there is an {nperial health office, where every important town has a municipal laboratory and @ technical commission composed of educated chemists and physicians, yet the market is flooded with deleterious foods, wines and medi- cines, what must be the state of things in a country like the United States, where the poor and the uneducated are almost entirely unpro- tected? Massachusetts, thanks to the endea- vors of Mr. George T. Angell, assisted by Mr. Charles R. Fletcher and other’ public-spirited chemists, made innumerable analyses and ac- tually scared the public into protecting them- selves. Ina comparatively short time a great improvement was manifest. Sugar became free from glucose, butter from lard, and flour from terra alba. OUT west. But in the west things are worse than ever. A careful chemist recently made analyses of food found in Detroit, Chicago and elsewhere, and was startled and horrified at the boldness of the adulterations. It is time that some na- tional law was passed. The money wasted in thousands of church and charitable enterprises might better be used in bringing the people to a knowledge of the danger that stares them in the face. All that is required is definite tacts and public indignation. The markets might be cleared of adulterations in six months if the people would combine against them. ——___ +. WORK OF DETECTIVES. Why it Often Fails—Some Notable ‘ailures. An old. and experienced detective in the em- ploy of the government, an educated gentleman, and one who has worked not only in this coun- try, but in Europe, commenting upon the Rose Clark murder mystery, expresses the opinion that the detectives now working up the case were all wrong in their theories, and that no satistactory results would beobtained. “People,” says he, “complain that the modern detective is not as good as the average detective of past gen- erations, but I believe they are just as good as they ever were. The trouble is that the aver- age detective is, and always has been, a man of little education, and, compared with his fellow-citizens generally, a very ignorant man. But with the advancement of science andthe spread of general intelligence among the masses, the criminal has become more scien- tific and more intelligent in his work. I was struck with a remark which Billy Forrester, the man supposed for a long time to be the perpe- trator of the celebrated Nathan murder, once made to me, ‘There have been,’ sald he, ‘re- wards amounting to €500,000 offered for my cap- ture. I have known of at least 300 detectives who were looking for me in this country and Europe. While they were dyeing thelr mus- taches I generally left the city. The trouble is that nearly every detective does his work afte) asystem. There is a set way for the tracing ub of every crime, and when the average detective has followed up every trail suggested by the usual rules for working up a certain class of crimes, he is unable to go any further, and the criminal goes undiscovered.” Why, there's Josh Tag- gert of Philadelphia, who jumped enthusiasti- cally into the Charlie Ross case, and spent first $10,000 of his own money and ¢8,000 more that he borrowed, and then died. Then there is Capt. Jourdan, who spent his wealth looking tor Fo. Tr, of whom I just spoke, and then he, too, died. These men, stimulated by the re- ward offered, tried the old: systems in working up their cases and failed, because the men they were looking for were too: intelligent and out- witted their pursuers. The science of safe build- ing has developed to such an extent that the old style gafe burglary isa lost art. There will be bank robberies in the fature, put no bank bur- gates counterfeiting, too, is carried on only yy a few amateurs. , The old-timers among the counterfeiters turn theirattention to other swin- dies, where the outlay isamall and therisk not so great. Ask a businesa man-how long it hasbeen since hesaw acounterfeit note. Ask your banker the same question. If a.counterfelt comes out it is generally better executed than the genuine, and it is detected because it is good work,rather than because it 1s poor. To do detective work a man must be of mature age, and must discipline himself 5 ees arriving! at conclusions too quickly. have a general idea from closely reading the new: ‘accounts of the Rose Clark murder, that it was not a deliberately planned affair. I think the murderer’s object was at first, when he probably came unexpect- edly uponthe woman fr the darkness, that he might overpower her and gratify a base passion; but. finding he had used too much violence, he made good the work of murder when once he saw he had gone too far, and threw the body where it was found. ‘The vanishing of LO rles of the detectives shows that they all upon the wrong track.” —— og No Time for the Judge to Talk. ‘From the Laramie Boomerang. A black woman was brought before a magis- trate for unmercifally beating her son, a saddle- colored imp, and the Judge was bepttie a reprimand, when the woman broke out with, “Judge, has you eber been a toa Wooffless yeller boy like dat arcub of mine?” ‘Never,” ejaculated the Jt Aula Sh Fld heme ting red in the take ing HOW CHINA’S EMPEROR LIVES, ‘The Boy Who is Honored asa Gea His Home. ‘From the Pall Mall Budget. The ruler of the 250,000,000 of which the Chi- nese nation probably ccnsists Is now within five Years of his majority (the age of eighteen years), and isan occupant, while yet aminor, ofthe eame apartments in which lived the emperor who preceded him on the Dragon Throne. There, says the North China Herald, he eats with gold-tipped chopsticks of ivory. There he sleeps on alarge Ninpo bedstead, richly carved and ornamented with ivory and gold—the same on which the noble-minded Emperors Kang Hs! and Chien Lung used to recline after the day's fatigue last century and the century before. Like one of those living Buddhas who be seen ina lamasery on the Mongolian plateau, he is knelt to by all his attendants and honored asagod. Theseclusion in which he is kept is far more compiete than that of the gods. The buliding in which the emperor resides is called Yang Hein Tien, and Is a little to the west of the Chien Ch'ing Meu in the middle of the palace. At the back of the central gate, onthe south side, is the great reception hall.. When minte- ters of state and others enter for an audience at 4, 50r6 inthe morning, according to cus- tom, they have to go on foot to the center of the palace over half'a mile, if they enter by the east or west gate; and when they get on In years they can appreciate the emperor's favor, which then by a degree allows them to be borne ina chair instead of walking. The rooms of the emperor consist of seven compartments. They are provided with the divan or k’ang the peculiar institution of north China The k’angs are covered with red felt of na- tive manufacture, and the floor with European carpets. The cushions all have embroidered on them the dragon an the phenix. Pretty | things scattered through the rooms are endless in variety, and are changed in accordance with any wish expressed by the emperor. The rooms are in all 30 yards long by from 8 to 9yards deep, andare divided into three separate apartments, the Throne-room being the mid- die one. Folding doors 10 feet in height open into each of these apartments to the north and south in the center of each. The upper part of these doors is in open-work in which various suspicious characters and flowers are carved. ‘These: doors remain open even in winter, be- cause during that season a thick embroidered curtain of damask is hung in the doorway, which byits weight keeps itsplace close to the door-posts and prevents cold air from entering. In summer this isreplaced by a curtain admitting the breeze on account ofits being made of ver: thin strips of bamboo. The silk thread use in sewing the trips of bamboo together are of vari- cus colors, and passing through the whole textur of the curtain from top to the bottom are very agreeable to the eye. These summer and win- tercurtains are rolled up to give air to the rooms when required. The Hoppo who lately returned trom Canton gave the emperor a present valuea at $8000. It consisted of chandeliers holding 500 wax candles each. His majesty has also some electrical machines and numberless foreign curiosities. The emperor was vaccinated when an infant, before his high destiny was thought of, other- wie it would have been difficult to vaccinate him, for, his person being sacred when emperor, no@ancet can touch him. His mother the Prin- cess of Ch’un, goes in to see him once a month and kneels when she first speaks to him, but rises afterwards. His father does so too. The emperor studies Chinese daily for an hour and @ half, and Manchualso for an hourand ahalf. He spends two hours in archery and ridingand in winter amuses himeelf with sledging. He hasa Uttle brother of five, whom it may be hoped the mother takes with her when she goes to the lace. The teachers who instruct him kneel to im on entering, but afterwards sit. The em- eror has eight eunuchs, who constantly attend im, besides an indefinite number for special occasions. He has his meals alone and the oat eunuchs wait round him, restraining him ifhe takes too much of any one thing. His school room is atthe back of the Yang Hsin Tien, already described, and the hall for conference each morning with ministers is alittle to the east. ——__<e+____ ‘Where Andy Johnson Lived and Died. ‘From tbe Chattanooga Times, In Greenville, as you are aware, the late President Andrew Johnson lived, as tailor, al- derman, legislator and President, and here he is buried. The shop in which he labored as tailor now stands inthe eastern part of the town. Just over the entrance to the shop, which is a small frame building, and in which a colored family is now living, is a pine board, upon which is written, in letters now almost erased by rain and storm, the tollowing: ‘A. Johnson, Tallor.” A little out from the western border of the town IST OF 1 REMAINING IN THI Li wihatteron cin ate or THE SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6, 1883. catPTczo.ghtain any of thene Letters the applicant must Dot called for within one month they will be ow-1r sent to the Dead Letter ( FRANK B. CONGER, Postmaster. LADIES LIST. Miss ore Martha J Mise Arnold O M Mre = johu Thorpe Sirs ‘Ashton Aiste Miss Laurence re Ashton Mee Tewis Hat Raetey ote Mise Magroder Panne C Miss x 5 ean @7Riller Eliza Mian H a Bink Stary ar Borris lca Mina Booker Delia, Moss J D Mrs Burdette Florence Miss Murphy Kate Mrs Gannedy Lucy Meta pura dhomesan Rargeos 3 ray —— Cavanoy Roe Batterson Maia ‘Lou Miss Clark Freeman ‘Mrs Plouden Connelly bance A Mie = eS SR a = baal Cook Minnie Mise octor Ma ‘Mise Robinson C Misa Robinson Lucila Mixa Hoots Geonrianna Miss Costello Nellie Miss Cromwell J M Mrs GFounee Lorengo LN ley iss oy Maxie Mise e Ars Scott Mary Mrs Dawson Halie Scrivner Mattic E Miss Dewitt LC Mrs Mise Donohue Nellie Miss Dores Lizzie Mrs Downes Emma Miss Fisher Sarah M: Flood Charlotte” ‘ountain Margaret Fortune Francix Mrs French oes Frarver Magdalena 3 Garnett Bettie Miss Galbraith Mary Mra Goodie Goodrich Alice Mrs. Greenland Robert Mrs Hamberry Julia Harrison Louisa Henderson Ella Miss Henson Mra Howe Precilla Mrs Hunt Ruby Miss. Inch Ajice Miss dackson Linds Mra Jackson Stella Miss darboe Vie Mixs + Whitne: Johnson Alice Miss. w Jones Annie Miss eo ter Mrs GENTLEM Alexander Danfield Myers Gen AG Annstard Howard, Mitchell CB AndersomJanes lorris Alexander Turner, 2 Myers GG Brown Anthony LE Mellon Geo Bungard GM Moore M Boudinot HC Miller Henry Beebe Bishop J A Murphy John Brown J M Myers Jno 1 Myers JJ Murphy Mr Maress RG Robt E. McKinney OH MeConnick Chas E McCormack Jno. MeCorpen John ‘adden Robt) Nelson Thos O'Brien Jno W yne HB shee! Stewart: yyeon Ben jaruin Dexter Geo N Downes J H Daley Ges 8 AM English Ld Evinethes B'& gon Frick Fletcher Col W F Wm Grin Harry 0 Gaddie Sarat Horton E W Hamilton Geo Hea furlev Houter Hi Jas M - Holloway. Robt Jones Henry Johnson J johnson JH Jones Wallace Knickerbocker Rev Dr Kinney Geo, 2 Kedney H wis Win “Meeker, Asst Adjt” “922 Delaware ave” LIST OF LETTERS REMAINING IN EAST CAPITOL STATION. SaTURpay, Ocroser 6, 1883, * LADIES’ LIST. Davis Miss Barthe Poles Mrs J Wellington Doud Miss Sidney W Robinson Magyie ick Miss Agnes = Robure Mre Dr Jd Jickling MrsLauraT ——‘Toyer Martha GENTLEMENS' LIST. Bette WT Jinkins Wm Dougherty Richard jr Bheld Henning Sidney. LIST OF LETTERS REMAINING IN THE GEORGE- TOWN, D.C. POST OFFICE, SATURDAY, OcTopER 6, 1883, LADIES’ LIST. stands the monument of marble which marks the resting place of “Andrew Johnson, Presi- dent of the United States.” o- Cotten Acnes Cole Lillian M- Nelson Euma GENTLEMEN'S LIST. Anderson Ja: ‘Reeves Clarence Dickerson Reuben, 2 ‘Wylee Maurice at SATURDAY SMILES. Two Bites to a Cherry. ‘What are you laughing at, my dear?” asked Mrs. Jones of her husband, who was chuckling over his morning paper. ' “Something I saw here,” he replied, “but it's hardly funny enough for two.”— Wisconsin State Journal. A Long Felt Want A Mississipp! man has just invented a big gan, which he thinks “will fill along-felt want.” he “long-felt want” referred to is its ability to kill and wound 800 men ont of a regiment of 1,000 at a distance of 100 yards. And yet they say that barbarism is dying out.—Zurlington Free Press. ———__se.__ English Impression of America, When Lord Coleridge returns to his native *eath and writes a book about America we trust he will not say that Chicago is a larger state than Hoboken; that Louisville is an isthmus that connects California and Hartford; that the Hadeon river is a beautiful city; that the Alle- ghanies are a lovely archipelago. and that Idaho is the capital of Brooklyn.— Puck. a senbateady Irena He Made It All Right. Aman returned from a dentist's highly in- dignant, and said that the intelligent ex- tractor had made a mistake and puiled the wrong tooth, ‘But he made it all right,” he continued, “‘or I would have brought suit against him for damages.” “What did the dentist do to make the matter all right?” was the question put. ‘He didn’t charge me any- thing!”—Hartford Post. ——— Autumn Girl, No. 2. The Autumn maiden is sure to charm. She can play tolerably wellon the piano. She knows how to eat oysters, and has been known to con- sume ice cream when the leaves begin to fall. But best of all, she is fond of a ride, and loves, “Oh, 80 much, you know,” to go chestnutting or hickory-nutting. She will stand so aweetly under the tree, holding up a jaunty apron while you knock down the nuts.and fill yourself full of thistles from the burrs.—Trenton (N. J.) Times. som” SS ——————EEE THE WIDOW’S MITE. In compliance with your request I send you state- ment of my case. Iwill write you with adouble pur- Pose, first to thank youfor the great amount of good your medicine, “Hunt's Remedy,” has done me, and, secondly, with the hope thst my recovery will induce some sufferer to do as did, “use the great specific and becured.” Fornearlya whole year I was an invalid, unable to go out of the house, anda great part of the time confined to my bed, a living, powerless subject of ‘the most dreadful of all diseases, “kidney complaint.” From the long suffering I became weak from the loss of strength, with a lack of vitality, and very much reduced infiesh. All this time Iwas taking various medicines, and under the care of our family doctor, and not receiv- ing a particle of help. I had almost despaired of getting ‘well, when my attention was called to Hunt's Remedy bys boarder in my family, I commenced taking it (an- ‘known to the doctor) with but little hopes of relief. This non-belief was soon dispelled, however, as I daily began toimprove. I continued the use of Hunt's Remedy (and. to make a long story short) used eight bottles, dispensed. ‘with the doctor, and to the surprise of all who knew me, and my own great strength ever, and only too glad to place my testimony.with that of many others, That your medicine, “Hunt's Remedy,” brought me from a sick bed I well know, and many people whoknow of my condit Tue Loxpox AND Liyvenpoon CLOTHING COMPANY TAKES THE LEAD. Good Business Suits for $8. Worth 814. CORNER OF SEVENTH AND G STREETS. The aim for reputation, and our $11 Suits are helping us to, THE LONDON and LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. All, nd purity and excel kmanship combined nog 612 g0 Teme See oH THE LONDON ‘and LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. Sailor 81s Guat wold Leet nga We or #15 tliat wor rapa easae ns wormed THE LONDON ‘and LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. One word with sou. air Are you, contemplating buy tug a Fall or Winter overcoat Tro. we: rept ask you to peruse our price list, abd then let an exaini? ation of our eoods follow, THE LONDON ‘and LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. It is our aim tosell only honest and reliable goods, Qur heavy Overcosts for €10 hit the nall squarely‘on its THE LONDON and LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. Don’t forget the London and Liv. 1 Ch Company when in want of @ Nobby Fall Suit. Our Suits are going rapidly. The London and Liverpool Clothing Store in fall blast. Drop in and examine their Fall and Winter Suits at one-half what other stores cl our laranteed to be worth double the m« at GHE LONDON AND LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. A prime necessity: A clothing house that will pell re- jabhe woods at prices that will allow the people tecine, Our $15 Suits startle the trade. THE LONDON AND LIVERPOOL CLOTHING CO. commonplace advertisement. - We defy competi- tion as to style and workiaanship. Examine gur #12 and Sie Suite and yon wall fey admit hat we should rank 88 “The Popular Clot louse of Washington.” THE LONDON AND LIVERPOOL CLUTHING 0, No fanc} are paid at the LONDON AND LIVERPOU! CLOTHING CO.’S ‘Their cut, style and finish have won for them s wide reputation, LONDON AND LIVERPOOL CLOTHING COMPANY, CORNER SEVENTH AND G. sep2T VARIETY is the Spice of Life. Anyone visiting our tance occupied entirely with all styles and sizes of Pic- ture frames, ranging from 10 cents up, followed by = beautiful assortment of Traveling and Hand Satchels, ‘Bags, Pursestand Pocketbooks in endless rit Pocket wollen eae. on Paintings, ee, ‘Up we see an of faced by a row of Bird Cages of all kinds. Thisisonly SOMETHING N§W EVERY DAY. SILVERBERG'S, a 812 1TH STREET, &c., &o. Ex Rusorrs FOR FRUIT JABS Keep it before the le! To be | PIPER r Au Wool Cheviok Suite at @875. 8100 aad 1S, 904 F street, (Junction of 9th and F atreeta.) Latest Styles of Everything Appertaining tf ‘MILLINERY. _Batinfaction given or money refunded, o8-w, ROTHERY I8 NOW PREPARED TO FUR: Mia’ her Custonniry with dhe latest miplen te tucling hortieest er ae IMPORTED BONNETS AND ROUND HATS, TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2p axn 3p, 1883, MRS. M. J. HUNT, 1309 F street northwest, ae Maar B. Vax Rec, 1112 13TH STREET NORTHWERT, Ba st returned from abroad. will OPEN, vine ST WEE TN OCTOBER nae me LATEST IMPORTATIONS OF DRESS TRIMMINGS AND NOVELTIES, _Taflor-made Cloth Suite a Specialty. eep27-3m RS. LM. BUTLER, 1530 0 STREET NORTH: Mirsiunhgh ED in DRESSMARING, COT . Bhe Cuaranters perfect tion in fit and style, eepoe da 2 ESS © & uxiio8, MODISTR, Fax removed from Baltimore. 10.24 D where she will minke. to onder Genera With ner treet gon Dresees ang Contumes Jong experience in the art tees perfect watiafaction in 6 ‘aul -ah RESS | CUTTING BCH OL. — LADIES can rm cuttin ttineg, nx, drapange tri Parlors and oc 513 Lith strect nw, ao school, uae NTON FISHER. ICAL DRY CLEANING ESTABLISH- G street northwest, Thirty years’ ex - * and Gentlemen's Garments: also € are perfectly cleaned by this su ening Dresses a specialty. Ojini cial chemist of the atric ot deals are of the moat eff hur perfect mane Surpassed in Paris, New York or elsewhere. Grease spots muaranteed to be thorowrhly removed. M58 ANSI K. HUMPHERY, hariileny, andy 430 TENTH STREET NOR’ Makes CORSETS under i and guarant ct ht and mt French Hand-made Underclottan and fnext Imported Hoxie Patent Shonider Braces and all Dress Reform Goods. French Conets and Busties. | The “Hercules”. Supe Corset, for which Miss H. is special agent, Enda €1 Comet, hee" Uwn make, that forthe "fries cannot be muryassed. N.B—French, German and Spanish spoken, a5 T= “SIGNAL SERVICE” WHITE BLANKETS ARE NOW READY, IN 10-48, 11-48 AND 12-42, And the “SIGNAL SERVICE” SCARLET BLANKETS: Phat werg fo horular last fall now appear in bandsomer ‘To make sure that you are grttiny wine, strict ALLWOOL BLANKET. BUY “ONLY ihosk Witte ‘Tite “Signa SenviGe™ ‘TICKET ON THEM, NOTHING NEARLY AS GOOD HL VER BEEN OFFERED FOR THE Monty. US EY 01.8.6" Wu E. Woon « Co. HEATING AND VENTILATING ENGINEERS, MANUFACTURE AND FRECT THE MOST IMPROVED STEAM-HEATING APPARATUS FOR PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND DWELLINGS, ‘Ro. 296 W. Balt. St. and No.1 North Liberty Btreet, Baltimore, Md. eepé-Cm Evenrme New axp Haxnsous FOR THE FALL TRADE IN CARPETS, RUGS, MATS, LACE CURTAINS AND UPHOLSTERY GOODS, For the Lowest Cash Prices, at SINGLETON & HOEKE'S, wep’ 801 MARKET SPACE. = New Consrxatiox Surmxes. RICH PLAIDS AND STRIPES for trimming. VELVETS, VELVETEENS AND PLUSHES. GROS GRAIN AND SURAH SILKS, SATIN RHADAMES AND MERVEILLIEUX. FRENCH TRICOTS AND OTTOMANS. CASHMERES, SHOODA AND HINDOO CLOTHE, LOWEST PRICES GUARANTEED, TYLER & CHEWNING, ecro9 939 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE. bon Uv 00 Lo Uo of RR Bs . to it uu 83 ph iL 0 ww «600 OR OR Ass8 > HEADQUARTERS FOR FINE OLD RYE WHISKIES, MARYLAND CLUB A. MONTICELLO "77, BAKER. ‘OLD Chow. ROYAL CABINET. IRISH AND SCOTCH WHISKY, M. HEIDSIC CHAMPAGNE, BASS ALE O DRAUGHT AND BOTTLED, GUINNESS’ POR- TER ON DRAUGHT AND BOTTLED, YOUNGER’S SCOTCH ALE, BOT- ‘TLED, HOLLAND GIN (SWAN). F.C. KNIGHT, 1732 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE. J _ser2l Ca Rovreer, ‘NOS, 403 AND 405 7TH STREET NORTHWEST. HEADQUARTERS E WHITNEY CHIL- UARIEN'S CAURIAGE COMPANY” THE CHE: R BEAUTY, COMFORT AND ° DURABILITY IN THE MAKRER Lawn co: Bicycles, Velocipedes, Archery, ne techies, Wazons, & Sar and examine the Prices to suit the times, ‘KK YOUR OWN. SERVI ae ee SIGNAL] | Nonegenuine 18- Vi BIGNAL| TERED LABEL. 01,3,6° | SERVI ona ‘MaLager. SAVING BANK—' YOU can PBs e ral Colne and roa ma fom Bea ems oe Aaa meee Se ents ae ‘Shirt Waist, 90c. and 4. W. SELBY, sepl ‘1914-1916 Pennaylvanis avenue. H D. BARR, ~ IMPORTER AND TAILOB.