Evening Star Newspaper, May 2, 1883, Page 2

2 THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON.~ WEDNESDAY. MAY 2, 1883—DOUBLE SHEET. CITY AND DISTRICT: PHANTOM HANDS. Whe Terrors of a Night With the Spirits—What a Star Reporter Saw and Meard at a Seance—A Grand Combination of Mediumistic Forces— How the Reporter Waw Fooled by the Sly Spirits—The Battle ef the Gui- tars—A Brave Boy, &c. A Srar reporter having received a card of admittance to a spiritual seance—one of those hand-to-hand encounters with disembodied spirits in limbo in which the believer In spiritu- alism loves to show his prowess—found himself the other evening in the parlors of Mrs. Levy's house, No. 457 Missouri avenue. It was with some trepidation that he entered the place. The average reporter ean be counted on to behave with the utmost composure at a “slugging” match to haunt the scenes of foul murders, in weird hours; of the night, with matter-of-fact indiiterence; to note the downfall of empires With undisturbed complacency; to beard the te fiend in his den without @ tremor, thre to cut tor two when journal 3 it, with no more ew ing of regret, that the profession imposes some disagreeable duties upon him who would climb to the top. But torial training has never contemplated with pale ghosts of the ld and the reportorial ytostand up on end, ‘o knock together as part in help- ir in the parlor. were easily con- ured himself teen ilgures iz in the room shand blood dressed in A collection one-half of the fac tlemen and rms with the landlady, * about the ¢ tate in Temarks with her upon the estion whether it was to be “cab- t night or not. A BRAVE Bor. A youth of some tweive summers, whose Younded form swelling out his little Jacket and pants to such a degree of tightness as to tor- ture the modest beholder with the fancy that the seams and buttons were about to give way— marked him a3 a boy of thesubstantial sublunary cort,disported himself in the back parlor, Binally seeking repose upon a stool, he devoted the powers of his youthful mind to the perusal of @story paper, garnished witha pieture of Red- Handed Rob engaged in slaughtering a tribe of Apaches. The expected ghostly visitation Dbrouzht no terrors to the youth accustomed to the study and emulation of such noble and fearless spirits as that of Red-Handed Rob. The brave boy was indifferent to his fate. While the Feporter was diverting his mind from the hor- rid thoughts that insisted upon obtruding them- Selves, by such observations, the chairs in the parlor were being filled up and at last about thirty people were seated there, the gentler sex preponderating in the audience. From the con- Versation which was carried him. it was app I They had no doubt that ghosts Would soon appear and the prospect made them cheerful. AN OBSTINATE SKEPTIC. “No ma'am,” said an elderly corner to a wise-looking elderly fe his voice in a mom conlan’t con aded, serew t be convince: tleman Ina ale, rai tof unusual earnestne nce him. He is one of those necked sort of men that id the elde certain thi aid to him lon: » “that if ! him that his he ady at the idea of troubling ach fur the purpose werely of con- ous “him.” whispered around that it night, but “corner.” xplained to the reporter by a sharp-eved woman, as meaning that the medi- Ums, instead of coin into a cabinet, would be Beuted in a corner of the Toom. THE MEDIUMS. Further discussion was cut short by the ap- pearance of two young men, each loaded down ap) ition of a set of fingers appearing over the wa the curtain. It was not destined that the company should be gratified or terrified by the appearance of a whole ghost all at once. The spectral visitors were served up in dismem- bered fragments. The fingers were soon with- drawn, and in ged sea? appeared a full sized hand with open palm; then another hand ap- peared, and soon the hands became as plentiful asif the ghost of Briareus had ensconced him- self behind the screen. Following this demon- stration there rose to view above the curtain anaked fore-arm, with fists clinched like a gold beater’s sign. Some of the hands that appeared were luminous with a dull, phosphorescent light. SHAKING HANDS WITH A GHOST. The possessors of these various hands began toevince a sociable disposition, and made known through Mrs. Levy, by means of the telegraphic process described, their willingness to “shake ” with any bold mortal who dared submit himself to the ghostly grasp. Several veteran spiritualists at once advanced and reverently touched the pros- fered hands. Tue Star reporter was shoved forward by several females who feared that he was not enjoying himself, and approached the sereen in great dismay, feeling that peculiar tightening of the sealp which indicated an erec- tile tendency in the hair. A good-sized fist and fore-arm were thrust out of the curtain to greet him. The reporter made a dive at it in his best reception-day style, but_ the hand suddenly-be- came coy and distrustful. It withdrew itself, then appeared in another part of the curtain, then fluttered about In an undetermined way, and at length seemed to make up its mind to give the reporter a snub. Mrs. Levy, however, + finally persuaded it out of this resolution. A brawny hand of good healthy weight was there- upon laid upon the extended reportorial palm, and after a friendly and substantial grasp had pxchanzed, th ve a tug before go which nearly precipitated the reporter hand through the screen. Mrs. Levy, looking over the curtain, chirruped in an encouraging wa! to the chosts supposed to inhabit the frail tene- . and declared that she could see them. “Ifyou could only see the shape that 1s behind "she said to the medium nearest to strike the medium as a par and he dodged his head the goblin should take a “0, don't be fright- y, noticing his fright, “1 in apparent terror le: will not describe it. HOW THE SPIRITS FOOLED THE REPORTER. The reporter becoming accustomed to the ghostly presence, and emboldened by Mrs. Levy's complacency, expressed a desire to get a full view of the specter who had honored him with his hand. He.was thereupon invited to come closer to the curtain. “Now,” said Mrs. Levy, “look over.” The reporter nerved him- self for the ordeal. and peering over beheld nothing but a disordered collection of bazjos, dinner bells and tambourines. “What did you see,” asked Mrs. Levy, as the reporter drew back. “Nothing.” “Nothing; ha, ha,” laughed Mrs. Levy, “they were too quick for you.” The reporter remained by the curtain until the hands again began to be demonstrative, when he endeavored to get another chance at the spiritual peep-show behind the cartain. Again he saw nothing but the array of musical instruments. Mrs. Levy laughed, “You can't fool them that way,” and the reporter retired in discomfiture to his seat. The remainder ot this part of the performance consisted of a grand con- flict between two guitars, held aloft by ghostly hands, in which one guitar was knocked out ot time in less than three rounds; but the hand that held it continued to flourish the shattered fragments defiantly like Marmion’s blade in the air, and was only induced to desist after much coaxing on the part of Mrs. Levy. The pro- ceedings were then varied by an attempt on the part of the spirits to murder one of the mediums by tumbling a table upon him; a deemed expedient to release the u time from their perilous position. TE REVORTER BEMIND THE SCREEN. A new party of three, including the reporter, alady ana one of the mediums, was then made upto bri the dangers of confinement behind the apron. The reporter's head was soon Blue Jed on the screen, and he had the impres- sion that It was ay uncomfortable looking head, “You have a little brother in the spirit and,” said Mrs. Levy, standing in front of the reporter and gazing at @ point in the curtain near bis head. “If thave, I didn’t know it,” said the re- porter. “No little brother!” said Mrs. Levy in sur- prise. “Itissome one, O,I see. It isa little sister.” The reporter's attention was here distracted by a friendly punch trom a ghostly hand in the rear. He thought over the matter afterwards, but failed to recall the fact that he had ever had With a miscellaneous heap of goods, including guitars, tambourines, dinner bells, and several yards of black cloth. These two young men Were the mediums -the Keeler brothers—who ‘Were to appear in ‘a grand combination of me- dinmistic foree.” They smiled a catin, worldly, Speculative smile, as they looked over the audi- ence and counted up the prospective half dol- lars. Preparations were at once begun for the pertormance. One of the Messrs. raped the wall ina corner of the parlor. facing the audience, with a strip of black cloth, as ifto propitiate the departed witha semblance of mourning for them. Thena cord was stretched &cross from wall to wall, about five feet from the floor A chair fu-truments and behind this eurtain. were placed against the outside of the curtain wnd a lady and gentleman from the audience the various for the production of music discord were placed in the corner This done three chairs Were invited up to sit with the mediam. The Kent! t off and sat holding the ut hand of the laly. Her left arm was bared to the Ww, and the medium who sat upon that side of her took hold of the bared portion ot her arm with both hands. She was instructed Jn ease of his taking his hands away during the Manifestations that were to follow to at once mnake it known. Another black curtain or oa was then prodiced and hooked in front of ree so that n put tiwir heads were . wad the s sented was somewhat similar to that 1 to be visible in the secret chamber of Blue Beard’s castle. THZ MANIFESTATIONS. 1s turned down to @ point of dimness, the illusion that these heads bores. The somber, shadowy Diack curtain and rn in the corner and the Lience all contributed graveyard feeling that He looked for some f the sable drapery, 'd to show itself, con- with beating a tattou on the table. lady inthe back parlor played he pisno, and the talents by beating to a sort of all-alc crept over the r an accompaniment er that it played some Y = with the lad: gentleman sitting with the medium, beth of whow declared that they Ieit act taps onthe shoulders and back. Was punched quite violently, and to escape the blows. Having tired asantries. the spirit began te ram— s placed within ent. Tt was soon rais- belis and tambou- e Instruments with Dering a pause in an air piano. miiiar aud soci known w der by pre . With these vst beat @ roll-call and nent to an air with ad- ug abeat. One of the the accmuplished drummed an ace tnirable skill, never etitars was then rai and p was pusi Ion that position. Suosequently it d out under the curtain at the partly above the curtain | a little sister who had passed to the summer land, though the thrilling experiences of a re- Porter's life may have obliterated so ordinary an event from his memory. A LITERARY DEMONSTRATION. The demonstrations during the reporter’s pe- tiod of confinement were of a literary character. The spirits demanded tablets and pencil, and busted themselves scribbling notes to the people in the audience and to the world at large. These notes partook of the usual character of spiritual communications, and indicated a vacuity of mind. The spirits kindly prepared on several sheets of paper a roster of the spect- erspresent, and disclosed the astonishing fact that no less than twenty-one of them were crowded into the little triangular space behind the curtain. The lady who sat with thereporter, having become possessed with the Idea that the spirit form of her deceased husband was prowl- ing around in her rear; and the reporter not knowing what the feelings of a deceased hus- band might be under the circumstances, felt greatly relieved when the announcement was made that the seance was at an end, and he was released from the encircling folds of the sable apron. The spirits had vanished. The mortals present grabbed their wraps and overcoats, and soon, in turn, they vanished. The cliak of silver at the door; where one of the mediums stood, as the guests departed, denoted that spirits as well asthe proverbial mare, are stimulated to active exertion by pecuniary considerations. $9 ‘The President and the Correspondents. From the Louteville Courier-Journal. The President, stnging— “ You fellows have been telling lies; * Pm well, and st!tl outside my pies.” Correspondents, singing— “ Dear sir, your words are hyperbolic; ‘You know you had the biltous colic.” The Prestaent— “It Pve had biltous colic, who ‘Has told of it to such a3 you.” Corresponaents— “Twas Dr. Black; he told us so, ‘He sald he thought perhaps you'd ga” The President— “Oh, well, Dut what's a little colic When one’s away upon a frolic !® Chorus of Correspondents— “ Behold the triumph of the pen! “Truth crushed tw earth will rise again!?” ——__—_—_+s-__ A FIGHT WITH AN ALLIGATOR. Secretary Phillips Should Have been ‘Where. From the Mobile Register. There was quite an excitement near Frascati Sunday evening, owing to the killing ofa very large alligator by Captain P. F. Alba. The cir- cumstances, as related by an eye witness, are as follows: The alligator having been discovered some distance from the shore Captain Alba,w ho | happened to be passing, procured a pick-axe | and waded into the water towards the monster, | which was ten feet long. Not being able to get within striking distance the captain procured a Ieet_ of Y . he medium, and played in that n. It was also lifted so that one end of on the lap of a gentleman who was for the purpose. This part of the per- ce was concluded with a grand clash of st {ustraments, a tambourine and two or thee bells being hurled over the cartain at the wndience. The apron was removed from in front of the medium and his two companions, = they bat digcovered with their tanas io © posture In which they were placed before the apron was pinned over them. “Who was it?” asked a lady sittin reporter ly sitting near the “it was George Christy. the minstrel,” re- Piied the sharp-eyed woman, meaning, as tite Feporter afterwards discovered, that It was Christy's zhost who bi i t the Snost who had raised the hubbub be- SPECTRAL BANDE. Por the next part of the performance both the gun and fired several shots at the saurian, wounding him in several places. The Captain by this time was over his waist in the water. Suddenly he saw the alligator disappear, and soon after felt eomething under his foot as he was taking a forward. It didn’t take the Captain long to find out that this was the head of the “gator,” who seemed bent on hostilities. Captain Alba pushed the head away with the muzzle of his gan and awaited developments. The alligator soon came to the surtace again, but showed no disposition to make off. On the ot the eaptalny ‘Taking advantecn ing advent of this Captain alba put the gun in the alligator’s month and shot him in the throat, killing him instant The monster was then hauled on shore. Captain Alba was of course ve pt, but a kind-hearted young lady lent him ateaee —— which enabled toreach town com- Mesers. Keeler stripped off their ¢ Jady was pinned in u: : Soon after the accomplished, a mv the audience, w roo with t ats, and one | —————_-+e-_____ A married man In Rochester, according to the Post of that city, took a young lady to the thea- ter one night, and after the first act excused himself for a moment, as he wanted to go out to “see aman.” He didn’t come back. Instead of seeing @ man, he saw @ woman. It was his wife, » salting for him at the door, SPECIAL ASSESSMENTS DISTRICK, They are of Five Kinds—Information About Them—How they Originated, IN THE The special assessments with which the Dis- trict has to do are of five kinds, the first two only being subject to revision. 1st. Those for special improvements made by the board of public works under its own con- tracts, and by the Commissioners, D. C., in com- pleting work under said board’s unfurnished contracts and extensions thereof. 2d. Those for special improvements made under direction of sald board and the last mayor of Washington, subsequent to February 21, 1871, pursuant to contracts entered into by said mayor. 3d. Those for special improvements made by municipal goverua pnts in District of Columbia, prior to February 21, 1871. 4th. Those against property benefitted by con- demnations and use of land of others for alley purposes. 5th. Those for cost of laying water mains by commission governments. The first kind of assessments are rey ited by lien “certificates” issued against property benefitted by special improvements made under the contracts and extensions referred to (see page 131 ibid). Many of these certificates were sold to the First National Bank of New York and others, but on May 29, 1873, (p. 407 ibid) the Legislative Assembly by law pledged all such cer- tifeates dereafter issued, to the redemption (through the commissioners of the sinking fund) of the 8 per centum ‘‘greenbacks” authorized to be issued by said act. The payment of these ficates is enforceable (pp. 132, 147 ib.) by of the property in arrears for the special axes they represent, but the Commissioners decided not to resort to that extremity until the assessments had been revised under the acts of June 19, 1878, and June 27, 1879. Subsequent attempts to sell under these liens have tailed because of the reluctance of people to invest. The second kind of assessments are repre- sented by special tax scrip or “stock” and are known as “Emery” and “H, D. Cooke,” assess- ments. The nery” assessments are those which were signed by Mayor Emery. They were issued on account of work done subsequent to February 21, 1871, under contracts made by that otficer, Tho “H. D. Cooke” assessments are as- sessments which were signed by Governor H. D. Cooke after Mayor Emory’s term had expired, for work done undercontracts of Mayor Emery. The collection of one-third of this kind of assess- ments is also enforceable by sate of the property concerned. ‘The third kind of assessments are represented by scrip or “stock” of the same character as that which represents the second kind, and coi- jection thereunder is enforceable by sale. The fourth kind of assessments (alley condem- nations) are represented by the same class of certificates, and collection thereof ia entorceable in same manner as the first kind. 4 The fifth kind of assessments are evidenced only by entries on books of water department of Engineer Commissioner's office. The rate of asaesement of the first and second kind was ‘‘a reasonable proportion of the cost of the improvement not exceeding one-third of such cost”; that is one-alxth on property oneach side of the thoroughfare improved. These assessments were made to the tull extent of that limit. The rate of assessment of the third kind was the entire cost of the special improvement. Under the system which prevailed when this class of assessments was In vogue, the expense of carriageways and laying street crossings was paid out of ward funds but other special im- provements were generally made at expense of private property abutting thereon. The rate of assessinent for the fittn kind ts one and one-quarter cents per square toot of the property in front of which the main Is laid. At present street improvements are usually made at general expense. The Commisstoners im certain cases furnish material for sidewalk, sewers, &c., to persous who are permitted to make improvements at their own expense for the labor necessary to do the work. Water mains are laid at expense of abutting private property. DRAWBACKS. The ‘drawbacks” are a certificates of the amount of erroneous or excessive charges of special taxes disclosed by the revision of the first two kinds of special assessments under acts of June 19, 1878, and June 27, 1879. These “drawbacks” are by said act of June 19, 1878, made recelyable In payment of assessments for special improvements, and by act of June 27, 1579, for au special assessinents and for all gene- ral taxes due before the first day of July, 1877. ‘The drawbacks on ‘Emery” assessntents pave not been issued, although those assessments have been revised. See opinions of attorney, Decem- ber 2, 1880. —_______+9._____ AN AUSTRIAN MILLIONAIRE, Get His Ideas frem America—The Queer Uses He Made of Them. ‘From the London Daily News. The death of Baron Wortheim, the greatest Austrian manufacturer of tron safes, has de- prived Vienna ofa very popular figure. Some People laughed at him, to his very face, and all who were not so successful as he had been en- vied him. Of uncertain origin, he began his career as an apprenticc, and managed to attain wealth, fame, and even a title, without genius oreven much talent. When young, he became acquainted with one Wiese, who, having long served in American iron-sefe establishments, was well versed in this branch of industry. He confided to Wertheim the secret of the Ameri- can safe lock, and the latter persuaded some friends to invest a small capital in a manufac- tory ofiron safes. He died worth about six million florins. Wertheim hada very effectual manner of advertising his safes. In almost every town of Europe, Constantinople not ex- cepted, he subjected them publicly to the action offre. They were always found to be Intact when the fire was extinguished. The surprised spectators of gourse helped to spread the tame of the invention far and wide. It was in this manner that Wertheim uitimately succeeded in commanding almost exclusively the Eastern market. He sent every potentate, great or small, a magn‘ficent safe as a present, and by this means obtained about forty-one ‘decora- tions, some of them ofthe highest order, Among them, it should be said, there Is not a Prussian nor a British one. He wore these decorations upon every possible occasion, and the staunchest supporters of honors of this kind could not have reirained from a smile atsight of the wizen little man when he had ail his crosses aud stars pin- ned on to the front of his old-fashioned frock- coat. He was never so happy as when he could enter a ball room dressed inthis fashion and everybody had a nod of recoguition from him, But with strained ears he listened whether the nod was followed by ‘Good evening, Baron.” If the title were omitted he stared. looked at the offender severely through a gold eye-glass and did not return the salute. He was married early in life, but he separated from his wife, romising to pay 3,600 a year for her support. He leaves the bulk of his large fortune to a natural son, who was more sarprised than the world at large at this sudden good fortune. A few friends of both sexes and his servants had legacies left them. In his large palace on the Schwarzenberg-place Baron Wertheim had a small theater, of which he spoke, as did the small potentates of Germany In days gone by of their “temples of the muses.” He felt very happy among the little dancers and actresses; who really believed in his greatness, but lately he got tired of the whole concern and seldom set foot in his theater. His funeral was in char- acter with his life. There was all the pomp and finery that could be obtained for money, and the peopie of Vienna flocked to the house of mourning to take a last farewell of the ‘Iron- safe Baron,” as they caHed him, and also to see what his son was like, of whose existence no one had dreamed before he was mentioned as the heir of millions, Every eye rested upon him as he walked behind the hearse, giving his arm to @ diminutive lady in mourning, his mother. He is tall and rather handsome, but the surprise at his sudden promotion in the Social scale was still apparent In his bearing. ——__—_—~e.__"" Victorin’» Heavy High-Steppers. Tt may be doubted whether any domesticated animalshave a much better time than those heavy cream-colored beasts wliich, when Queen Victorla used to open and close parliament, did duty twice a year in drawing the state coach, but have since enjoyed an absolute sinecure. pelos & representative of the animals which in days when gala carriages were so fright- fully heavy were in demand. chronicle of ¥ records that “William Beckford, nq. father of the virtuoso author), has purch: the fine set of Flanders mares lately belonging to Mr. Boreel, ambassador of tine sta‘ eral, to draw the state coach Cray mayoralty.” The heavy, high-stepping ndon _earri: horses of to-day are chiefly from the Cleveland district of Yorkshire, where they are 5] pecially bred forthe London market. They are quite unsuited for work tp a hiliy country. ng The pleasing old custom of a children's floral procession fs to be revived in Salem, Mass., on the coming Fourth of July, * THE WORLD OF FASHION, A “Velvet”’Senson—Spring Abolished— A Widow's Outfit for a Secon: riage—Girls T. tse From Our Own’ Correspondent New Yong, May 1. There is no bettér evidence of the confusion and want of sense that presides over the dress affairs of wonien than the growing failure to differentiate the seasons and associate with each one something of the special charm which distinguishes it in’ nature. In the spring delicacy of tint, soft gentle fabrics and early flowers. For the summer, cool blues and white or buff in diaphanous materials; straw bonnets, trimmed with lace or muslin and wild roses. Then, naturally, the tall would bring to us our darker wools and dahlia tinté, and the winter's furs and velvets find thelr proper place. But dress has now become like the bill of fare ata big American hotel—all alike all the year round; everything on the bill of fare at the same time, and at all times; no selection and no en- joyment. This profusion without fitness or dis- crimination is what we have arrived at in dress. We have tulle in winter and velvet in summer. We have big roses and tropical leaves and high colors and thick brocades and heavy beaded trimmings and embroidered silks and satins for July. We have low bodices and bare arms with the thermometer at zero, and high bodices and thick ruches with the temperature at ninety in the shade. It does not meet the case to say that women can make their own selection, and that it is their own fault if they chose for summer what they have worn in winter. Then somewhere there must be dreadful waste, a shameful expendi- ture of time, capital, strength and labor, which might as well be put to better uses. But, in fact, when we say that everything is provided all at once, and can be had, we do not state the exact truth, just as we do not speak strictly ac- cording to fact when we say that “every thing” can be found on a bill ot fare. We think so be- cause of the variety and profusion,-but very often If you want the simplest thing, such as a bowl of good oat-meal gruel, you could not find it nor could money procure it for you. Pre- cisely so it is again with dress. You can get every thing within the limits of what happens to bethecraze ofthe hour. Buta little investigation wiil show how narrow these limits are, and how barren of ideas, one thing being merely an echo of another. For example: A lady who does herown think- Ing decided that for a spring dress she would have @ fawn-colored satin surah, with interior facing of soft shade of strawberry or apricot. Fawn Is one of those fine neutral tints that are supposed to be always In stock, and strawberry and apricot are the colors most fashionable this season. She visited three of the largest dry goods and silk houses (retail) in the city of New York, and could not succeed in getting plain satin surah or surah silks of any kind In these Shades. There were thousands of black mon- grel silke—shot, figured, Se checked, spot- ted. There were brocades in suns, moons and zodiacal signs. There were pear-shaped, heart- shaped and melon-shaped designa—figures beau- tifully wrought but bold, detached, and looking more like the separate parts of adeasert, cracked walnuts and green figs included, than the orna- mentation of a dress fabric. There ts only one consolation for the madness that seems to pos- sess the manufacturers and wearers of women's clothing, and that fs this: it cannot last. The laws that govern supply and demand forbid it. All thinking women are sickened of, the Ir- rational methods by which their dreas’is goy- erned, and thot they have not arrived at a point of open rebellion, and do not even know how far or in what way they would like to be emancipated from a bondage that is not so much one of fashion aa of trade, yet the time vill come when they will know what they want, will demand it, and will have their re- quirements met. CIRCUS STYLES. The styles for the present season may well be denominated “circus” tashions, They make a big show and they range from the sublime to the grotesque. They revive the hump and fasten it in the middte of the back, with sleeves to the outer garment that look like expanded wings, A much-dressed woman used to be likened to a peacock, but a peacock is a digni- fied and solemn bird nowadays beside the female jackdaw or paroquet, with green and gold or many-colored plumaze cocked up there and swollen out here,and with patches of bright red and yellow allover. Bonnets and parasols are of @ piece with the rest of the outfit. The colors which were formerly put into the trim- mings of the bonnets, and sparingly at that, are now dyed In the straw and flaring moons or in- verted scoops and the like crown the wonderful superstructures of color and form. A few years ago the “Gainsborough” reintro- duced created anew departure, and was welcomed a8 an artisticacquisition to elezant head gear. It was followed by the Rembrandt and others not wholly unworthy copies from famous historic models; and if there was nothing original in them there was something at least noble and Picturesque. But this season has contributed so far nothing that is worthy of mention to either fabric or design. The hats and bonnets are a modified tribe, mostly shorn of their best features, and left in @ form that is neither tective nor Per eerns, while the trimm! are gilded thisties, gilded birds, stiff gilded Force gilded apples and grapes—in short, a ecide feast, ali show snd glitter, but with- out gny sweetness, satisfaction, or reality. Trade Hl Ar lve recone & demon, ‘8 Juggernaut @ public,and women es; nine fare uacriasea to.” Laat year ee hibited monstrosities in the shape of bunches and cordons of artificial flowers. Artificial flowers have been declining for several years. (is it an evidence of the growth of good tastes? Some- times one hopes that It is.) Anyhow, the fact remains, and, naturally, they have accumulated. Thousands of women were deluded into paying a high price for parasols decorated in this tawdry way, and were so struck by the bad taste and folly of such an exhibition that they tore the things off almost before they had n seen. This season we have the highest and most pro- nounced colors which have heretofore been used singly put Into alternate stripes, blocked off Into large checks, or combined inhuge figures. These ure the novelties. It is true, ladies are not obliged to buy them. They can fall back on the black surah, trimmed with Spanish, lace, and, by looking, they can find some pretty styles in ne silk, in tte@ foulards, in pongee, Nned with shrimp k, or strawberry tints, and some in small pin checked silks, which are intended to match summer costumes. Taking a general look over the whole ground, one can find nothing good that is new and nothing new that is good. Of course there are exceptions so far as technical qualities in the color and designs of fabrics are concerned; but. even in these cases they are rarely adapted as well to form and the spectal purposes of dress for women. They might as well, or better, be hangings or furniture coverings, or used as models for wall paper, although even for these purposes bold detached figures, which bear no relationship to the material they decorate or the object it covers, but simply pit it, as it were, with small pox, cannot be considered desirable or as possessed of artistic value. The one good thing in this mass of Incongruities and deformi- ties is the wonderful blending of tints, the tech- nical perfection of design in some ot the sammer. silks. There‘ are warvellous examples of the high excellente to which mechanical production has been brought. Soon all hand iabor will be of the past. but whether the world will really be richer or its‘ inhabitants happier, ts a doubtful question. SOME NEW SPRING DESIGNS. Electric bie in silk, and also in fine shawl cloth, ls in great demand for costumes which must be made complete ; for there 4s so little in the way of obntrast that looks well with this peculiar yet, attractive tint, which is exceed- ingly becoming to chestnut-haired blondes. Ita fascination consists in its dark lights, if one may use such ani expression, which render it more striking and mach more effective in the cheer- fulness of its aspects than cadet (gray blue), peacock or gendarme blue. It is lovely in a soft make of surah, which has a twilled finish, but is soft as India foulard and brighter than the plain twilled surah. A short dress of electric blue silk is made with a skirt plaited at the ruffled at the sides and draped infront. The edge ot the skirt {8 finished with a number of narrow, fine plaitings. The bodice fits smoothly over the hips, is very deeply pointed back and front, but not sharply cut; Is open in front and finished with narrow plaitings, which stand up from the neck and ‘are finished interiorly with others of fine lace. The fichu which accompanies this is of the same tabric, and forms a pleated cape with sleeves which are set high at theshoulder. The sleeves are more in effect than in reality, are not pleated and do not confine the arms which show the pretty finish of the dress sleeve below them. The fichu is not lined, and if the pleats are fine to match those } Upon the skirt, the eflect is very good, ahd the Whole costume exquisitely light and delicate. With such a dress, the bonnet and, in fact, every detail of the dr SA tualler of import- ance. White and bi aws are tod bold and if crude. A straw to match rd wita electric | blue velvet, and trimmed with feathers of the | is suitable. Or the bonnet’ may . matching the costume—with shirred crown and puffed brim, the garniture ribbon or Sir, the silk itself made into bows, and one of the large strawberry sprays which combine delicate foliage with the white blossom, and the green and ripe fruit. This if of fne natural tints, fur- nishes a good littie touch of contrasting color. In wool the design may be simplified. The skirt may be simply box pleated, with smooth panters or asmall rounded apron made of velvet. and acape made of plain velvet. The bonnet, as in the other case, should match in straw, and be trimmed with feathers. Of course the drawn silk would not be appropriate with this. Very much more showy dresses for sprmg are composed of rich bi les in two colors, com- bined with a plain satin surah. In the colors several tints are blended, so that the effect varies with every motion and exposure to light and shade, but a certain harmony of tone is preserved throughout. These silks are of Ameri- can manufacture, and the most striking are in shades of soft pink pen deiicate iilac and in olive upon peacock blue. With the tormer is put lilac surah or Ottoman silks, with the latter olive or peacock blue, as preferred. The brocade is used tor the upper part of the dress, and the drapery at the back,which though short reaches nearly to the top of the ruching or pleatings at its edge. The front 1s sometimes draped en panier, sometimes has plain princesse sides tied over the-draped or pleated front with ribbons. A still more recent mode reverses this process— arranges the plain fabric in a series of pleatings or gathered flounces at the back, and ties the princesse side formed between them so as to form a series of failid&g loops and ends. This game of see-saw, simple reversion of ideas, 1s one of the most common features of fashion. What has been very de- cided in one way is sure to be followed by a re- action in the opposite direction. At the pnvate exhibition of imported dresses, which takes place at the show-rooms of fashionable modistes, one constantly hears, “0, that is exactly like a dress 1 had last year, only so and go is reversed; where that was full this is plain, and vice versa." Inthe workroom of a young but en- terprising firm of importing dressmakers, some lovely pink and blue chamberys have been tnade for Newport, flounced at the back and tied and trimmed with velvet and Edelweiss lacs Fete toliets from the same source are the loveliest combinations of delicate fabrics ever contrived by taste and skill. They are composed of em- broidered crepe du chine and tinted satin or satin surah covered with filmy depths of what is known as pompadour lace, with raised roses in needle point very daintily made and wrought in with the pattern eo as to seem apart of it, although these roses are infact applied with lace stitches. Crepe du chine, embroidered and brocaded has taken the place of nun’s-veiling in the construction of elegant toilets for young ladies, nun’s-velling having become “common.” It appears in exquisite tints and qualities and combines wondertully with the softness of the pompadour lace, which {s not used in such masses as were the cheaper laces employed upon nun’s-velling, but as deep and rather secant flouncing, often in short lengths at the side, across the back, or as paniers, rather than entirely round the skirt. Of course the beauty of the combination and arrangement largely de- pends on the skill of the modiste, who has power to spoil the best intention of the finest fabrics, and often succeeds in doing so. 4 WIDOW'S OUTFIT. , Some dresses of extraordinary beauty were made recently for a widow of thirty, who is about the matrimonial state a second term. One was of Ivory satin, with long plain train em- broidered in arich scroll pattern with pearls, white jet and heavy silk down the sides and round the bottom, which was edged with s nar- row triple pleating lined interiorly with a double pleating of lace. The front was cut out in leaves, in a triple series, embroidered and laid over flounces of Pompadour lace, the width diminishing toward the bodice, which formed a yery deep point, and the hollows of which upon the hips were filled in with embroidered leaves, below which were deep panlers of the lace. The bodice was cut equare, embroidered in front, and surrounded with a standing fraise of exquisite lace. The sleeves were formed of a single puff of satin and double fall of lace, the lower one descending over the elbow. Another dress was very delicate combination of shrimp pink with a lovely brocade ona tinted ground. The bodice of this dress was cut in one with the train, which was trimmed with irregular falls of lace at the sides and softly Nene atthe back. The entire front was covered with a network of pearl embroidery, as Nght almost as lace, and forming barred sections, divided by twisted ropes of small seed pearls, which cost as much in time and ‘abor as jewels. A dress of bronze satin and brocade, latter ‘in an olive pattern, is for walking or riding. It is all of a color and accompanied by an immense hat of bronze straw, faced with velvet and trimmed with long and wide bronze plumes. A very rich short dress is for garden parties. It is a combination of cream and gold brocade, with old gold satin and beautiful lace. There is ahat for this dress of cream satin, edged with gold and trimmed with magnificent plumes of old gold. The simplest gowns in this trousseau are of India silk tor morning wear, very much trimmed with ribbon and lace. The traveling dress is of pin checked surab, lined with strawberry and trimmed with point under the mantle, which forms @ very stylish visite high on the shoulders, tied in at the back, but with long ends infront. The bonnet of French straw matched the general tone of the dress, which was a sort of bronze brown, and the teathers which formed its garniture cokes in the minute checks and also A ‘Buseiga morning dress for present wear was of ivory cashmere lined with ivory surah and bordered with a broad band of black feather trimming. A very delicate one of white, India twilled silk had @ border composed of several Tows of gathered lace shaded with tiny white and pink silk pompons which looked like a gar- den border of English daisies. ‘The list seems endless, but a black violet must, be mentioned, composed entirely of black satin and lace, the lace mingled with the satin, and the whole effect heightened by a mantle formed of deep plaitings of lace with a shower of fine Jet down the center of the back, and high pleat- ings upon the shoulders, forming deep epau- lettes. With this dress came a small bonnet with sparkling Jetted crowns and pleated brim of real lace. YOUNG GIRLS’ TOILETS. While married ladies array themselves with so Much magnificence and in all th colors of the rainbow, the young girls, particularly those that affect English styles and manners, are putting on airsoft extreme simplicity. Their brothers are Jockeys anil stable boys, and they are milk maids and pretty waiter girls. One cannot re- spect such an exhibition as this even when it seems praiseworthy, because there’s no con- sciente in it. It is mere masquerading. It does not make them any more truly useful, or eco- nomical, or sensible, or willing to face the ea- sential conditions of an honorable and inde- pendent life. It is part of the curious medley which we call life, and which makes those who fare and dress sumptuously every day some- times to wish for nothing so much as the poetry of poverty, its freedom from conventionality and its picturesque elements, without its hard and binding circumstances. These simple dresses are sometimes of cash- meres, sometimes of cotton gateen, ginghams or flesh flowered lawn, A mere of thiskind in gens d'armes blue is made with a perfectly plain box pleated skirt. The plain waist is set ina belt, and cut square, so that a little tucker of pleated muslin can be inserted, and plain sleeves with a pleating of lace or muslin at the waist. The costame is not complete without au apron, not of toweling, but made of a fringed towel with embroidered border and fringed bib and pockets. A pretty dress of lilac muslin {e made with a gathered skirt trimmed around-the bottom with a puffing and a narrow flounce. The surplice waist is crossed and gathered into a belt, and the full sleeves are gathered at the top. andalso into a nearly straight cuff, which is trimmed with lace. A little muslin apron em- broidered with English violets, in outline stitch and tied with wide string, was over this dress ata spring ball, the wearer carrying a huge conus of violets and another of white rose buds. Gingham dresses, when made for married ladies, are in two pieces, or even three, but for young girls they are made whole, either in the ane form, or with the bodice gathered into @ belt and covered with @ belt of ribbon when the apron is removed. The blouse bod- ice may, however, be considered an exception to this rule. Walking clubs set 8 good example in regard to walking dress, and which serves also as @ suitable traveling dress. The most approved models consist of a Je bodice, an unlined leated skirt, and plain folds draped over the bine but without sash ends. These form acon- venient pocket at the side, which is concealed, and with s shoulder cape WU scaatonns and hat, (either Langtry, yy or le), the costume Is complete. One point may be remarked that late walking gloves are gauntletted instead of wrinkled. MANTLES are of extreme beauty so far as form and fabric are concerned, but the high colors haye entirely disappeared except in the blending with the India fabrics used for small spring dolmans and the oceasional pelisse. The reason of thisis not far to seek. Positive color ina mantle or its lining limits its use. It can only be wi with cerlain costumes, and this is not only tneon emeeeenanammeee a Ladies prefer therefore to avail themselves of the fashion of small capes, fichus and mantles to ventent but compels the jon of a variety, match colored costumes, and only independent garments in black, or ecra, or Cream, so that they may be available for different to end tollets. "All mantles are short at the ‘k, and are usually belied in over the “varioloid” bustle, a name given to the present form of crinolette by the London Lancet, which says it bears the same relation to the hooped skirt that vartoloid doesto small pox. The reason why they are short at the back is because of the elaborate finish of the dress skirts at the back and the ne- cessity for thetr display. The ends in front are long and leaf-shaped, and many are quite plain and small, but of very heavy ottoman satin, trimmed with chenille fringe of great depth and costiiness, STRAWS. There is @ revival of black and white, black and white checks and black lace upon white in costumes. A novel combination in summer beige for traveling dresses consist of the plain material, with a narrow stripe and small check in bronze green and brown or blueand brown. Artisti- cally et the “three in one” look exceed- ing well. With the revival of lace flounces, gulpure seems likely to come again to the front. Some beautiful patterns have been made in this lace recently, which were purchased as soon as shown, and there is an effective novelty in gui- pare combined with needle point Spanish lace which makes lovely and enduring fichus, shoulder capes and covers for the fronts of The high pointed cape is revived with a very full fall of lace from the shoulder which de- scends and forms a drapery over the tournure at the back of the skirt, the point of the fichu being held into the waist by an interior ribbon. There is a sudden rage for very narrow rib- s, which are made into full clusters of loops ture for hair, neck, bodice and skirt. are tied with double strings of narrow satin ribbon, two colors being used. No caricature could do justice to the latest “get up; “to the long and full coat bodice draped over an exaggerated tournure; to the enor- mously high ‘shonlders, emphasized by very high and full falls of lace; to the nerated throat encircled with triple ruchings of black Ince, and the poke bonnet with high peaked roof. Summer suits of Pompadour sateen, with 18 A COLD A FEVER? The New Theory of 3 Bidéetora Deed tor—The Effects of Indiges‘ion ant Impure Air. From the Philadelphia Reeord, April 29. The theory that colds are the result of em Posure to cold or damp air is generally accepted, Indeed, most persons aMicted with this disordet are able to trace its origin, satisfactorily to them selves at least, to some undue or unusnal couted® with outeideair. They seek no. other explanation. In the columns of the Popwar Solenos News Dr. Page. of Biddeford, Me., undertakes to show the fallacy of such ® course of reasoning. That his theory 1s new to most people is no proof that It will not hold good. Having made the subject of colds a special study for tea years, he concludes that the ailment which ts universally called @ cold is in reality @ fever, and 4s directly caused by indigestion or impure air, He says: “Foul air prevents the purification of the blood; hence the accumulation of impurities which tn thelr exit give rise to the symptoms popularly sup- posed to indicate cold. Hot living-tooms ren- der impossible the digestion of more than @ little food, and that of the plainest sort, by mak- ing only a little necessary. Indigestion results trom eating improper food or some degree of excess, the excess being either posi tive or relative, according (1) as the skin ts more or less sweltered with clothing, (2) the lunge more or less outraged by bad air, and (3) the entire organism less or more invigorated by fresh cold air. It is unquestionably true that when, by reason of wrong conditions, the eystem has become iil-conditioned —when, that is, there are impure matters to eliminate—some chance exposure to 8 bracing atmosphere may so invig- orate the organism by the presence of fresh air in the lungs and its touch upon the skin, th process of elimination begins, and by return to the close, the home this process would often be completed all unconsciously to the individual, who now makes the great mistake of confounding the cause of his recovery with the cause of his dis- ease. Dr. Page fs not in favor of wearing more clothing than Is consistent with physical com- fort. Is it not evideut, he asks, that the less clothing WH wear and the more we are exposed to cold the nearer we are carried, metaphori- cally speaking, to the polar regions, where “surtelt fever” is unknowu? And are not these cream grounds and gay flower patterns, are ac- companied by parasol and large fan. all to match, the design of the costume being outlined and the skirt partly made. Basket straw bonnets are plaited agevan like braided baskets, and there are gilt straw crowns which look exactly like the baskets used for flowers. Cream llama, decorated with graceful pat- terns in tapestry stitch, is used for morning gowns, with Watteau plaits, and are very origi- inal and esthetic looking. The Umritga cashmere and art silks intro- duced by Liberty & Co., in London, ara in- star) tpt their way spor peste shades of color are exquisite prices very moderate. Lawn tennis dresses are to be of striped flannel combined with a solid color, trimmed with several rows of black velvet in A velty. ta is, which is considered Dov parasol 01 Very stylish, is of rough cream Turkish toweling, embroidered in red aud blaok in Turkish de- signs, with a mixture of gold thread. e favorite colors for garden party dresses will be electric blue and strawberry red,trimmed with black velvet and white lace, or with em- broidery and black velvet. In arecent letter the mistake was made of stating the production ot a New York silk man- ufactory at five thousand pleees when it should have been five thousand yards per d Sullivan Done For. From the Brooklyn Eagle, Itseems to be the general opinion among the plug uglies ofthe fighting profession that Mr. Sullivan's fighting days are over. A prominent bruiser whom f met on Broadway yesterday af- ternoon said: “I knew Sullivan's lungs were bad, and the news of his hemorrhage in Boston, and almost fatal illness, did not surprise me. When he was in New Orleans preparing for the fight with Ryan, [ was with him, and one after- noon after he had been sparring a little while with Billy Madden, I noticed that he looked bad around the eyes, and I asked him if he was not troubied with hisheart. He said no he thought not, but that there wassomething the matter with hislungs. He kept very quiet,for It might have in- fluenced the betting, and in the afternoon I called ina doctor, who examined Jotin’s lungs. He said that he was ina bad way,and thathe oughttotake the best of care of himself, and keep in good condition all the time or he would be subject to hemorrhages constantly. Sullivan is deep- chested, but, oddly enough, has sm: Jung His wind lasts a very short time, and doubt if he can get second wind at all. At least his second wind would do him very little inafight. It takes it so long to come, and so played In waiting for It, that any antagonist could use him up. But he ts one of the strong- est men that ever lived—Sullivan is—and If he . m4 a the Influence of liquor that I have ever seen. It has such a frightful effect om he gets a drop too much he falls I remember one night up in Dick Dowling’s saloon we were all drinki: Sullivan came in with a couple of friends. He had been around drinking at the different dives, and was half fall when he arrived. Somebody set some liquor before him and he swallowed a big dose of it. The next instant he wavered for a minute and fell down on his back straight as a beanpole. Dowling closed the doors, tried to get him on his feet, but he lay there like a log. Finally, we got his head on a cushion anda couple of hours later he was helped into a car- Tiage and taken home. But liquor is a dead poison to Sullivan, and he knows it. He is all the more fool to drink. ——_—_e-_______ The Fenian Watch in London. Philadelphia Tetegraph’s London Letter. The vigilance of the police Just now in Lon- don ts extraordinary. Iam told, and can quite believe, that there are nearly as many men on guard in plainclothesas in uniform. Their eyes are everywhere,and a good deal of inconvenience to perfectly respectable people, guiltless of con- spiraciesto blow up anything, ja naturally the result. The other night, at Broad street station, I happened to be carrying two small leather bags. Being encumbered also with a handful of papers and an umbrella, I had to put my load down while unbuttoning my coat to take out and consult a pocket time-table. As the hour waz late few people were about, and the railway company, on economica thoughts intent, had turned the gal down to that point which just serves to “maks darkness visible.” Knowing the dexterite of London sneak-thieves, before puttiny my bags down I glanced around very cautiously to see that no prowlers were about. Not a soul appeared visible within fifty feet, but hardly had my band relinquished my property before a firm hand was laid on my arm, and its owner, a well- knit, muscular man, asked me who I was. Not realizing the situation for a moment, I angrily demanded what be wanted, at the same time attempting to wrench myself free. Another man was at my side directly, whose professional that I was ve want to know what you have in these bags,” was the demand. A ligut dawned upon me and I burst out laughing at the idea of being taken fora “dynamiter,” and bid them look for themselves. ee _ Morr jor ~ neat and thorough ut polite examination, Nothing more danger- ous to the public peace than a few books being found, the detectives apologized and left me, feel Much amused at the incident. The whole affair did not take five minutes. It is one of scores of similar cases which go to show the eager vigilance of the police at the present time. asap ae eat The Attack on Bicycles. From the London World, Iseldom read the Lancet, because when I do I generally discover that if I do not give up something or other I shall die before a week is pe order to prevent, as far as is legislatively pos- sible, young men destroying thelr constitutions by riding on them. This is indeed protection with a vengeance. Were everything which the condemns taxed, we should in a fair Way of paying off the national debt in a few z iow teen Besoin Science as to enjoy better before they took to their machines. Sie Frogs for Ince pins have suddenly Jumped into the conditions. he adds, which stimulate the digestive system by cresting a leqitimate de- mand for a greater portion of the excess which we are always under temptation toewallow? He notes instances where his own patients have “taken cold” by ‘putting on their winter flan- nels,” and sarcastically remarks that the idea never occurred to them to cure the “cold” leaving off the undergarments which were the real cause of the disorder, and adds: ‘The inst time (two years ago) that I wore flannel drawers: I removed them for this very purpose—to aid in relieving my system, which was oppressed by what is called acold. I awoke with an increase of my disorder—sore throat, hoarseness, pressure at the lungs, chilliness; renee without my rawers; ‘skipped’ my breakfast, thouch my ap- petite was more than usually imperative in de manding ite accustomed | went seapone | out, (on a celd, snowy day,) and, spending ma of the day in cog go , actively engaged meantime, by night I found ‘my pipes’ pretty clear; in fact, removing the flannels and fastts the entire day, meeting thirst and a ‘gnawii stomach with hot water, with an extra eponge- bath at bed-time—taking an air-bath, with con- siderable friction, on top of the quick sponge- bath, both morning and night, in this emer- gency—proved a radical and speedy cure.” In conclusion, Dr. Page remarks that if tt could become popularly known that the avmp toins observed in cases of “cold” we of an effort on the part of the o1 inate impurities which have been haps tor months, and th: and exercise are nature's trip the disorder,a very great pre severe sicknesses would be prevent out presuming to question the eff doctor's remedies for colds, we think tt the face. ee Booth in Vienna, Vienna Letter to the London Daily News. When the news first reached Vienna that Ba win Booth would play Shakespeare in Puglish, with German actorsto play the other parta, a doubt arose everywhere as to whether he would be recompensed for his pains, and whether Vienna would muster an audience sufficiently numerous tofill the Stadt Theater. Jt wassupposed that the is also the reason why the critics are not eloquent in discussing the merits and faulte of Mr. Edwin Booth. There are no particularly good Shakespearean players in Vienna. Com- parisons were therefore drawn chiefly between the American edian and dead and go actors whom few of the present generation have had the good fortune to see, or else Salvini and Rossi. The Viennese are much better able to appreciate and judge the latter, because Italian is a language which, owing to the former Aus- trian garrisons in Venice and Milan, is still very — here. In “Hamlet” it was admitted kat the American was superior to both of bis Italian rivals, and the general opinion was that he was an altogether “ princely” Prince. But for “Othello” he was not considered power- fal enough, and the many groans and other inarticulate sounds which y 80 great @ part in his rendering of the wrathful Moor were not thusiastic. ‘me iouhing taaee oe ot ne out raged father were understood without the aid of h, and Mr. Booth was called for innumera- ble times. Had the good stout women of Vienna understood the stirring words they would no doubt have shed tears. In theatrical circles Mr. Booth’s appearance has caused quite asensation. The actors of the Burg attended his representations whenever they were able. ‘and they have one and all made friends with him, as much at least asthe total ignorance of his will allow them. Mr. Booth, on the other hand, was delighted with what he saw of the Imperial Theater, in which he witnessed Con Count Bathyany. Count Bathyany, whose sudden death in the man, Who was admitted into a certain set. Though not religiously devoted Roman married, they were both i ES & 8 ie 3 5 Successfully employed to collect the elecurieity aud conduct it to tue ground