Evening Star Newspaper, November 8, 1882, Page 2

THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON. Winter Fashions for Rome Wear and for Visiting and Similar Purposes— What te Wear Out-Doors. LONG OVERGARMENTS AND SHORT SKIRTS IN VARI- OUS HUES OF RED, BROWN AND GREEN. From ths Philadelphia Press. The most elaborately-trimmed costumes are mot the most popular; on the contrary, the Walking suit of to-day is very plain. Tne short ekirt, with its fullness carried behind by bunch gathers, is of cloth, in any desired dark color, with its lower edge trimmed with a narrow pleating of the material, headed bya band of plush ins darker shade. The upper garment is of the same cloth, in redingote shape, open from welst line in front, pleated on each side and in back to give desired fullness, and trimmed ‘with border of plush ail round the lower edge of skirt, with collar, cuffs, and revers on the sides of open fronts also of the plush. The biack dresses this winter are very ele- gant, perhaps even more so than those in col- | ‘ors, but that is a matter of mere personal pref- | erence. Some are very elaborate, and are very richly garnished with Spanish or thread laces, passementertes, and quantities of jet trimmings. | An imported dress of black satin has the skirt ot the pointed basque cut out over hips, with the space filled in with pleatings of Spanish Jace; over this and edging the other portions of the basque is a fall of jet fringe. The most ele- gant skirt bas double rows of two kinds of eating of satin, while the drapery in back and nt is arranged in countless folds, festooned, each festoon being edged with jet pendant fringe. gorgeous is a reproduction in one of the illu- minated lustrous saiins, for evening wear, with trimmings of white lace and quantities ot iri- descent beads that radiate with every movement of the wearer. Black Indian cashmere and merveilleux satin combined forms a neat and elegant costume. In one the underskirt is of the satin, pleated all the way down in close, narrow flat pleats. The second skirt is of castimere; it is short, pleated | across the front, scarf-fashion, and draped be- ind in two long. square lappets. The bodice is a cashmere jacket, buttoned at the top only and opening over a vest of satin, buttoned. straight down the front. The fronts, pockets and sleeves of tnis jacket are very prettily braided with black braid in elaborate Ori- ental designs. It i gested that this same costume can be made in any dark color, such as deep shales of purple and garnet red, blue, dish or golden browns, which are bie walking dresses. Terra , too, claim a share of atten- bronze and copper tones, which are very rich. RICH COMBINATIONS. A handsome costume for this season is a com- * bination of veivet, plush and satin. The basque, Which is cut off in fronts and coat back, is of velvet, the vest is of plush, while about the edge of bas kirt are tiny side pleatings of satin. ‘The plush is covered with large polka dots, and It forms, as well as. the vest, ich is bordered on each side . The sides are plas- nd_the back drapery is a and satin. The skirt Is ae with side p) rare also of the plus ev if k and s ess la are finished ‘A copy of this was in Fich Olive zreen Somme very stylish composed entirely nd useful costumes are ean-made silk da- z and attractive js shows a skirt, 1 at the lower edge with six nar of plain silk. Above is a de in the back, while in ot costume con- coat sleeves. 2 attached the d: @ heavy silken cord, which fullness falis in diag- onal folds across the front of skirt and is ar- Fanged in puffs in the back, the lower portions being edged with the en cord, loops of which hang down the left side togetver with Jong ends and rich tassels en suite. This style Ot suit may be most e! ively made up in bro- cade, with cashinere, or in the satin and damasse ombinations in black, or in colors. Worn either for home or in the street,as desired. TERRA COTTA AND MAHOGANY. Very attractive is a robe of terra cotta velvet and striped silk in rour tones of the same color. The front of the velvet skirt is plain, save at the tower edge, which is cut in scollops and fin- Yshed with a fringe of amber, mahogany and farra cotta bead: HH over ruffles of silk, embroidered In all the shades In floral designs, and beneath these ruities show side pleatings of ik. The sides of the train are of the striped silk and the center width is of the velvet. The ‘aist is round-pointed, with square-neck, med with double pleatings of hand- le over hips from the point of cor- which are secured beneath the dra- et, whieh covers the entire back of | This dress is very showy. but positively | | future as well as present use. | for this winter, for instance, must be such that extends up to the | vith rufile-finished | Ito the skirt edue of basquets | COtOr A Lew bonnet considerably. ‘So, too. with in rutfle form, detined by | It can be | ECONOMY IN DRESS. Excellent Appearance Maintained with Small Money Outlay. COSTUMES EQUAL TO THOSE OF WORTH OBTAINED WITH A LITTLE SKILL AND TACT—THE BEST. ARTICLES ALWAYS THE CHEAPEST IN THE END. ‘From the Philadelphia Press. It is a mistake to suppose that the women who spend most on dress are those who think most of it. The human lilies “who toil not,” and who need only wish in order to haye, leave the burden of planning as well as execution to their dressmaker; it is the woman who must maintain a decent appearance on a small allow- ance, and by taste and ingenuity make one dol- lar do the work of five, who gives her whole mind to the subject. She it is who studies the shirrs and pleatings of her neighbor's costume from Worth, over the edge of her prayer book, while apparently absorbed in her prayers, and les awake {nto the small hours con riving how to make over her old stik so that it shall pasa muster among the stylish new tollets of her wealthier friends. Fortunately taste and Ingenuity oan do a great deal, but even they must have some ma- terial wherewith to work. The woman who dresses, not handsomely, that is impossible, but well on a small allowance, must be a genius ip her way. She must make her own dresses with, at most, the occasional atd of a dressmaker at | $2aday; must do her own embroideries, trim her own bonnets, have an artist’s eye for color, anda French woman’s knack at picturesque combinations; In short, she must be able to make the most of all she has, however little it may be. Tn the first place every purchase, no matter how trifling, must be made with reference to Her dress it will make over advantageously next year for second best, and the year after do for afternoon wear at home. Couspicuous colors, however tempting, unless indeed they be wonderfully becoming, must be avoided if she would not be known by her dress. Black and neutral shades are her safest choice, and the material should be as good as she can possibly afford. ‘The destruction of the poor Is his poverty,” and there is such a thing as being too poor'to be economical, paradoxical ag the statement may seem; that is, one may be forced to buy an inferior article for lack of the money necessary to purchase a good one. Still it is far better to have but one suit a season and fiave that hand- some than to buy halfa dozen cheap suits with the same money, unless Indeed, in summer, when a variety ot light and airy toilets are to be preferred to one rich dress. ADVANTAGES OF REAL LACE. Real lace is an investment, and with care will last a lifetime, Take areal Spanish fichu for example; with a little sogrnaity it isa scart, a mantle for outdoor wear, a fichu for evening dress, or, arranged over a silk-covered bonnet frame with a spray of flowers, an elegant eve- ning bonnet. Handsome lace never goes out of fashion, and when worn can always be reno- vated. On the other hand, money spent for che cotton imitations is worse than thrown aw: spoils any toilet, for no lady with any ntions to taste ever wears cheap finery. A narrow linen collar is always in better taste than. cotton lace, while a lisse ruching, calling for no great outlay at the moment. is appropriate with the richest dress. Crepe lisse, though, is expensive, because so often ‘requiring renewal, | so that real lace, in spite of the first cost, is much ‘th frills of | More economical in the long run. plan to buy cheap tarletane ruches, and baste them inside the crepe lisse, low enough down not to show. Thus placed, they protect the crepe lisse from crushing, as well as from becoming soiled by contact with theskin. What has- been said about imitation cotton laces in no wise applies to pretty machine-made thread laces which have of late years become the refuge of those who have refined tastes, but cannot afford to indulze them. Ostrich feathers, also, may be counted as an investment, since they are always in fashion, and when on hand reduce the handsome cut jet or fine pearl buttons; costing more perhaps, at first, they practically last for- ever, and may be used again and again, while passamenterie and silk buttons seldom wear as long a8 the dress for which they were originally ught. INGENUITY IN GLOVES. The question of gloves isa difficult one for the practical economist in dress, To be well gloved is absolutely necessary to a good appear- ance, and even with the greatest ¢are kid gloves soon grow shabby. Cheap gloves are apt to prove a snare and delusion, and when these aro used it is well to find some place where they keep a make which {s to be relied upon, and buy always at that one place. It isa clever expe- dient to take the long tops of gloves, the fingers of which are past wearing, and match them in two or three-button gloves, which, being out of fashion, may be bought very cheap, and to which the tops may easily be sewed, the join being hid- den under a bracelet when the gloves are worn. In taking off gloves they should never be pulled by the ends of the fingers. Instead, turn the top of the glove down over the hand and ‘¢ hold of the fingers through the kid. By this means the fingers will not be rabbed In taking off. When purchasing a pair of gloves match the color in a five-cent spool of fine sew- sare trimmed with rich | all of fringe on skirt. Ma-| hogany ts one of the fashionable colors and | leux of this shade a yery handsome | in marve visiting custume is made. The lower edge of the short skirt is finished with side pleatings, while above up to the waist line are large box nd. From each point is sespended a cheni center of every box pl terie ornai t of cher this in the is di manner. The basque i back and front, t ipo let in on the out ands strapped across trimming. and a very nigh, stand Beek of corsage. The hat accompanying thi: suit is of felt, in a light mahogany shade, trimmed h binding and folds of darker le than the material composing the dress. The velvet is about the shade of the ehenilie in its trimming. QUIETER HI Green and bronze are in favor, and with these hues cold is intermixed with desirable effect. Quite elegant Is a costume of bronze, with its ” front skirt-width elaborately embroidered in floral designs in mixtures of tones and a larger Proportion of gold. ‘The edeof skirt is finished ‘with ‘our rows of tiny pleatings. Above the sides are formed of striped plush and satin in two shales of bronze. The basque has deep Square plastron of embroldery like that onskirt, ith cuffs and standi: collar to match. The Coat sleeves have de. with ornamental nd hand finish of the @ Is oF he striped satin and plush, which is deep, but }Founde:t out below hips on’ skirt, with panters of plush from the sides Joining plastron, carried +in folds over the striped skirt and ending be- neath ty Plush. The roand hat, covered with plush, has | remembered, we sol z collar Is on | et in a| | many | the full back drapery, which is also of | ing silk, and mend each tiny rip as It appears— “a stitch in time saves nine” here as elsewhere. If the glove tears the edges of the rent should be closely button-holed, stitched, and then but- ton-holed together. A glove manufacturer re- cently writes to the London Queen, apropos of complaints made that kid gloves do not wear so well as formerly, that: “The first cause in the tearing of gloves will be found In the fact ot their being worn go very tight. A few y s back 634 was the simailest size made and we went from that size to 8's, the majority sold being 73/ and 73¢; and then, be it if only one two-buttoned gloves made from kid skins, and the general prices pu were 28. 9d. and 3s, 9d. pér pair. ‘ow ail thisis changed in the present day. In place of sizes ranging from 63¢ to 813, come 53¢ to 634; and instead of wearing gloves cut from sound, tough kid, with one and two buttons, the Gants de Suede, cut froma tender lamb- kin, with six, eight, and, what is worse buttons. These latter are called “Mousque- talres,” and are difficult to put on; the wearers, not exercising the patience required, begin to pull them, and, the gloves being cut from lamb- skins, they tear them. In order to prevent so y accidents in the pulling on of gloves, let following directions be observed. “Turn the glove down beyond the button, and let the fingers work on thoroughly to the ends, also the thumb, then turn the glove over gently into place, but avoid pulling it. gloves were laid in a damp towel for three or four minutes previously to pulling on, they would draw on much more easily, and seldom or ever tear.” The fashion of combination costumes is a tower of strength to her who must do much with small means, since it allows her always to utilize any scraps which she may have on hand. Then, too, the fashion of framing the front breadth of a skirt zives great scope to the em- ployment of an inconsiderable quantity of hand- some material.and many “short lengths” of rich brocade, velvet or satin may be most ad- *elightly upturned shirred brim and is immed vantageously used in this manner. The bodice With cluster of bronze and gold plumes. A Gress of Ottoman velvet is in blue, one of} is often of the same material as the panels, but where this cannot be accomplished, a portion the new shades. The four flo the skirt are hemmed about the in hollow its. very full and putte mt. The | elaborately-puiled Lack is also very full. The + bodice, which is pointed back and trout, shows loops ‘of ribbon eseaping from underneath: ‘while the front of wais a plastron puffed across, all the way down the bodice. The col Iatette is pleated und the sleeves are narrow, With puffs at the armivles, but plain at the Tista. ¥ Quite odd fsa dress of one of the invisible plaids in a variety cf coloriug. The skirt is edged with rose aming of the fabric, lined with bricht-hued siik. Above are large box-pleats, also of the material. which are looped about hslf way up the skirt and are then carried up to the waist-lins. The basque, Of the plaid, ts deep, plain and round, with Ro trimming but buttons im the colera of the which cover pleated | can be intreduced as trimmings, such as revers, plastrons, or pelerine and cuffs. The jacket, different from the skirt, is another economical style, but this has been referred to in former articles. Its Intest and most inexpensive form is the Jacket of brizht-colored cashmere, cut to iraitate a Jersey, aud untrimmed except for the small buttons which fasten it from top to bot- tom. Young ladies and misses wear these on the street, while for atternoon wear at home, their use is general, and they serve to utilize any old skirt at small expense. Neatness is, however, the great desideratum to economy in dress. if the toilet is carefully made, the dress tidy, well-fitting and neatly put on, and the collar or frill epotiess, the etfect can searcely fail to be attractive. To keep gar- ments fresh and neat much pain Is necessary. The dress must be brushed or at least shaken when taken off, and be carefully hung up, not tossed down on a chair or the bed in a crampled heap. Gloves should be tenderly smoothed out, frilis rolled up and straightened, and ribbons smoothed over the tightly rolled up, and inned with a fine needle; a pin is apt to leave mark behind it in m holes, It is an excellent plan to Keep a large box in which all odds and ends of velvet, ribbons, etc., Such anomniam will “What other business do you follow besides Preaching?” was asked of an old colored man. “I syeculates a little.” “Sells chickens.” chicken It is a good | SEEN IN A CANINE HOSPITAL. CAPITAL CHARACTERS. ‘ Pet Dogs Saffering from Colic, Pleurisy EccetitricMien of Washington. and the Mange. DISEASES WROUGHT ON THE CANINE RACE BY OVERFREDING—MEDICAL SKILL DISPLAYED It NURSING BICK DOGS—INTERESTING FACTS CON- GERNING AFFLICTED CATS. “ Yes, sir, this is where sick puppies are made ‘well. Walk right in.” This ambiguous invitation was extended toa New York Star reporter by Mr. D. G. Dovey, the well-known healer of invalid dogs. “Well, what can Ido for you? Yon should have broaght your alling pet along. I can never tell ——" The reporter hastened to explain that his dog was in the enjoyment of excellent health. “But I cannot tell when he may be taken sick, doctor, and, therefore, I have called to learn how indisposed curs are treated.” “Well, prettyanuch as human beings are, and they in oe © much the same diseases: You see this ag “ Yes; what has become of hig hair? He looks **.Forthe past frcaigt Thre been “For the ve him forthe mange. He is improving Lowrand in another week will be able to go out. The lady who left the office as you came in is his mistress. “Dogs have to swallow nasty doses, as their masters do, I suppose,” observed the re- porter, watching the gambols of the cenvales- cent pug. “Just the same, and they don’t like it # bit more than men do. But asick do must take his medicine whether he likes jt or not. We force open his jaws, and down goes the .dose, nolen volens.” ee diseases are dogs most liable to, doo- 2” “That isa rather weak question. What dis- eases are men most Hable to? Dogs suffer from the same maladies that afflict men, result- ing from the same cau es.” “And the same remedies are applied to dogs ag to their owners?” “Exactly; when a dog has chills and fever he {s given quinine; when he has Syspepsia, pleariay influenza, or colic it is cured re~ isely the same means as are used fot sick men and women. Speaking of diseases, here is a sad case.”” The doctor brought from a dark hall a light box of wood, covered with musquito net- ting. In the box, wrapped warmly ina fur cloak, was a glossy, bright-eyed King Charles spaniel. “What alls him ?” asked the reporter, strok- ing the animal's head. “He is paralyzed, and has been so for nearly two years. Poor fellow, see how his paws are shriveled. He can never be cured.” “When people bring you sick dogs, how do you make a diagnosis of the case?” “The dog’s tongue is inspected and his pulse istelt. I observe the temperature of his ay, sound his lungs and examine him thoroughly {n other way: fany diseases in dogs are the re- sult of over-feeeing and insufficient exercise. This Is particularly the case with dogs of weal- thy owners.” ollie malady sends most dogs to their ves 2” “Distemper, a disease corte: low fever in human beings. It and at the best very dangerous.” “Is the canine race lable to consumption ?” “Yes, a dog may expose himself and take a cold that affects his lungs and in time brings on consumption. In ench cases I usually order a change of climate ?” “Is it not difficult to handle some of your larger patients 7” “‘Well—yes, semetimes. I have been in the business for more than twenty yesrs and have got so used tothe beasts that I do not ‘hesitate to handle the most refractory dogs. ¥ have been bitten scores of times, but a dog doctor acquires such skill that he can manage a fierce mastiff without receiving @ scratch, where a novice wonld be nearly chewed up.” onding to yel- ig infectious, “You perform surgical operations?” asked | The Star man, gently repulsing the advances of a large gray cat. “Yea; I set broken legs and take care of all sorts of injuries.” “Do you administer an anesthetic?” “when I think the case demands it. I’ve got a little black-and-tan down stairs now ry a game leg. He willbe able to go home ina few days. Speaking of broken legs, I had an inter- esting case some time. 40. the: person: of a iittle Brooklyn dog that was steppod upon by a hore. His a oe Sqpshed . almost! sev- ered from the . Hts owner took himto a fancy surgeon in Brooklyn, who set the limb in plaster of is. That was a mistake. The animal was brought to me for treatment and I took care of him for Cire At the expiration of that time the crushed leg had become sound as a dollar.” “Do you keep some of your patients here at your house?” “Yes, a few of them that require particularly careful nursing. I don’t believe in giving a dog he man much medicine. Nursing is the great ing.” tan canine invalids ever. suffer from insom- nia?” “Only when they are im acute pain. When they have toothache they can’t sleep, of course.” seal can you tell when they have tooth- ache?” “When I see a dog suffering severely, 1 ex- amine him carefully, never neglecting to look into his mouth. If I find a decayed tooth there, out it comes.” “In some cases does not a sick dog’s Instinct teach him what remedies nature has provided?” “Yes, but city dogs, particularly those which iupered darlings of wealthy families, vays have access to nature’s medi- eines, and in thelr efforts to find relief they sometimes poison themselves.” “Do you ever give a dog liquor?” “Sometimes.” “Does he like It usually?” “No, sir; therein he differs from man. One glass of grog suffices for a dog, while man, on the contrary—but why should I speak of man? You asked for information about dogs.” “Are there any well known people among your patrons?” F “Yes; Charles A. Dana and_bis‘son, Paul, are fond of dogs, and so is S. L. M. Barlow, who owns some splendid mastiffs and deerhounds. I used to treat dogs of Mr. E. 8. Jaffray » who owned a number of fine ones. John pi Ray- mond has employed me to attend to his pug, and Lester Wallack’s ‘akye-terriers have recely medicine at my hands.” “Do you ever act as an ocullst?” “Often. Not long ago I extracted the eye of 8 biack-and-tan Recagne 30 a Fifth-avenue Lae her A nail Tun into the eye, and I had to remove it to save the other one. Sometimes I doctor near-sighted dogs.” “How do you know they are near-sighted?” “By their general action. They do not recog- nize familiar persons until quite close to them, and will allow a plece of meat to lie untasted a little distance leeward.” “Why to leeward?” “Because if the meat were to windward the dog would smell it.” “How do bulldogs behave when tll?” “They Somer as when in health. Not loi ago I was upon to attend and Engli: bulldog who had a bone In his throat. He was in awful agony, and it required the united ef- fortg of six men to hold him. I shoved a stiff piece of whalebone down his throat to force the other bone into his stomach. The brute chewed the whalebone into a jelly.” “I suppose people are sometimes as anxious over a sick dog as over a sick child?” ‘The veteran healer of canines laughed. “Just about. But I tell them to follow my instructions, and remember that cleanliness, warmth, avoidance of drafte, and fresh air are as powerful aids in maki in caving babies.” sperepecscamea ee eee hicngo Acrtress Dreveed as “Jullet.?? The millinery drama, as @ critic remarks, is booming in Chicago, and now it has infected Shakspeare. It was bad enough to have an ac- tress loving and weeping aad sinning through an original American drama from the ‘ich her emo- a in a change of costumes lons were accurately so gauged as to displ Dut now Julie haa been solosted for feattoreete immolation. A certain Miss is to make her de- but. She will do the balcony business in a white satin Paris i and reach the emotional climax in point and seed in the emotions rl corse for em- How a third act her mingled tterance out of a rae to MAJOR KING, WITH A MANIA ON THE SUBJECT ‘OF ORUBLTY TO ANIMALS. ‘Washingtoti Correspondence of the Chicago Herald. One of ‘the eoaentric eharadters of Washing- ton is Major King, secretary of the society for the prevention of cruelty to animals. Hels a tall, thin ‘man, with long brown beard, a keen face, and sharp vigilant eyes. He appears to be in all partslof the:city at one time. You meet him everywhere.’ The negro drivers are scared to death of him, Yor they never know at what: moment he may pounce upon them and confis- cate thelr delapidated mules. He is continually seeing new forms of cruelty. His last effort was for the protection ot the toothsome turtle. Here, as elsewhere, before the turtle is converted into soup, he is placed on his back in front of the restaurant door, where he affords intense enjoyment to @ throng of admiring urchins. Major King, after.due deliberation, grrived at the conclusion Mead Medi plete vs e eee pain, while spoiling the quality of the sou; went to the fish commissioners the other day to complain of the cruelty one unfortunate turtle was made to suffer in this jpn way. He hoped to get sufficient scientific Information from the commissioners to enable him to arrest and convict the restaurant keeper. To his astonish- ment, however, the commissioners took the view that this positlon of the turtle was a painless if nota pleasant one. They told the major that the seat of all pain was in the brain—that the brain of the turtle is 80 small that he hardly de- rived any sensation from it. This was not sat- jor King. He was convinced in own mind, from thé appearance of the tle’s eyes and the oonvuletve movement of { lege, it wre suffering untold agonles. But, as he could not secure expert testimony on this point, he reluctantly allowed the turtle to re- main on the sidewalk until time for his conver- sion into steaks and soup. The alert major was more successful in an- other novel case. He made a raid on aioe poulti venders for carrying chickens by fa ir legs wit! thelr heads dowaward. The poultrymen kicked at his interference, and sald chickens could not feel anyhow—they peieee to be carried that way, and nothing delighted them more than to have their little heads twisted, Major King was redolute, however, and by threatentn; ertest, compelled the dealers to carry their poultry in somé more humane but leas convenient man- ner. He is now after the dog catchers. He thinks the way in which they catch their prey is unnecessarily cruel. A nice point ia Jnval ved in this. It ithe duty of thé dog catchér to seize each animal that does not bear the official tag ltying that he is a properly. taxed canine. Now, the general mode ot opera- tion for catching the animal is to throw a net over him, catch hold of the back of his neck, swing him into the air. and deposit him ih thé yan. Sometimes, owing to the crowded condi- tion of the van, the dog has to be suspended in the air a few seconds until a place is made for him. It is during this period of suspension the major holds that intense pain is suffered. The aoe clnee has to catch the dog’ That is one of his per antery duties. He has also to drop him into the van. Major King concedes these two acts must be Pataca teh but he is trying to devise some means by whish there shall be no perlod of shspension or an adequate punigh- ment inflicted on the catcher who suspends. day he carriéd his point to the prosécuting at- torney, who laughéd in his face and retused to issue warrants for so pecullar an offense. Major King leindignant, but the abjest lawyers whom he has called in ¢ofigultation think he will have to abandon this hobby and turn his fertile mind to something else. Alex. Stephens and the Countryman. From the Atlanta Post-Appoal. Soon after the entrance of the train contain- ing the Great Commoner 4 countryman was sighted on the rear end of the back oar, pro- milnently perched on top of the bumper, gazing with a look of mingled admiration and awe into the face of Henry Grady, who was making his exit through the doorway. After e minute and gra- titying survey of the noble physique of the Apollo of the local press he lost all oonsclous- ness of his humble station and gave way to the heroic promptings of a patriotic spirit. He ven- tured: ‘Governor, can I have the Aghar Ss shakin’ hands with you, seein’ as I've oome ways to doit, and might not never have the chance of approachtn’ you agin?” Certainly, sir: but I am not the governor— here he comes now.” “Ts that him?” “That is Gov. Stephens.” “Well, I'll be derned!” “What did you remark?” “T'd hearn he was a prodigy, but if that’s the Diggest man they could trump up for governor of Georgy I think we'd better leave the state, fer the country’s degeneratin'.” “We don't estimate a sta’ esman by his physi- cal development, it’s the brain; the Governor has the greatest brain in Georgia,” “I don't care nothin’ about brain; byt idea of a man bein’ governor that’s got to carried aroun’ like a bundle o’ clothes.” Sei ead How to Pronounce Egyptian Names, Mr. Stanley Lane-Poole, than whom it would be dificult to find a more competent authority, has addressed to a London newspaper some much-needed instructions as to the pronuncia- tion of the Egyptian proper names of which patriotic poets In England are making such a sad hash. “It may be laid down as @ general Tule,” he says, “that Egyptian names of places and people are much better kept in the middle of the line, out of the way of the rhyme. The neglect of this rule results in such mistakes -as Tell-el-Kebir rhyming with ‘sabre,” wiien tt 18 really pronounced ‘Tell-el-Kebeer’ and would Thyme with ‘severe.’ ‘Arabi,’ again, does not agree, elther in accent or in the gound | of the last syllable, with ‘luliaby,” but rather with ‘a harpy;’ and Kasdasin is no rhyme for ‘assasein,” though it might run with ‘as a scene.’ Ismalia, with the accent on the pe- nultimate, Port Sald and Zagazig — both accented on the last syllable—are generally mis- pronounced in the verses which the war Has in- spired. Mr. Lane-Poole does not fall to notice that Tennyson did not trouble himself about a cents when he made the Caliph Haroun Er- Rashid into ‘Haroun al-Raschid,” and he con- cludes his letter with a practical remark the pregnancy of which American newspaper readers will be quite as prompt as their British brethren to recognize, as follows: “Our various and com- plicated modes of spelling Oriental names are certainly to blame for much of the confusion. and when the same pie is spelt jn six different ways by six different maps or six it Corre- spondents, to say nothing of the idiosyncracies of individual Orientalists, it is not beiakebat es] that the general public . If the official censor of telegrams had taken the orthograph: ot the seat of in-hand, he might have snloy the privilega. of exei & permanent influ- ence on English literature. But probably this road to immortality did not occug to him.” ee “@hey Manage Things Better in i = : In France’@ girl Who remains single up to the age of twenty-five-may be looked upon almost ag an anomaly; even the least attractive regard- ing thelr establisiiment in life not merely asa probable eventuality, but as a matter of course. When scarcely in her teens her future prospects have been already discussed and her “‘expectan- cies” accurately csttulated by that mysterious but influential Vehmgericht, the family council ; suggestions from its different members as to the 0} ding advahtages she is entitled to de- mand have been cafefully listened to and con- jidered, and the nates of such of their friends whom sh ta hereon saat . whom she Da. before, and com mtly ac- fo due the, traditional interval ° e antoniance of tastes and dis- #8 wantits, bots to make th: and, however take knows nothing silver basin, anda fi ‘ge Wd pdt” “He const ARABI IN PEISON. ‘Cairo Correspondent of the New York Herald. “What is to be done with Arabi?” is the ques- tion in every one’s mouth. Whether he is to be hanged or set free is the basis upon which many Detting books are made up—even betting that he will be hanged, two to one that he will be set free. Whatever ts done should be done at once. Curiously enough tt was the Egyptian ministers who first suggested that Arabi should have the benefit of an English barrister for his defense. ‘When it became known, however, that Mr. Wil- frid Blunt nad sent ont a barrister and a solicitor for that purpose the ministers chan thetr minds and took the ground that in eriow of the present disturbed state or ic feeling it was imperative that Arabi’s fate should be decidea without delay, and objections which would be Involved by the of lish barristers and which ould ha incom prelions le shat up with colleagues and satellites in g large public atid. ing in the European quartet of tne. town. He is watched by ag guards, who occupy the Interior of the house, while 6 company of ‘adier Gaards stands entry at Kos ble exit from the extemporized prison. Arabi says that the Circassians treat him cruelly and eat his bread ol seems afraid of aspassini asked several times that Brit laced in the room With him, n refused, but en officer now sees that the Circassians do not abuse Arabi in any way. Arabl now presents 4 striking contrast to the tall, erect horseman who on the 9th of Septem- ber, 1881, rode, sword < hand, ap to the Khe- dive who stood at the foot of the palace steps of bdin. Surrounded by four batteries of pp guns and 9,000 troops the Khedive was a prie- oner in his palace. I was an eye-witness of the scene that then took place. As Arabi rode up the Khedive—regaining for a moment the im- perial gemennoece Mehemet Ali—extended him- self to his fall height, ond wing, back bis well ree head, commanded Arabi, “Put dp that sword!” Arabi, taken csmpletely by surprise, hesti- tated, and his sword band trembled palpably. I then felt convinced that Arab{ lacked phyatoal courage. The Khedive, profiting by the hesita- tion, made a commanding ire with his right hand. Arabithen swung up the hilt of lg saber and replaced it in its scabbard. The ‘uedive then commanded, ‘Get off that horse!” This order Arabi also me hes It was then that Str Auckland (then ur vin bent toward the Khedive and said, Order him shot!” Instead of thia the Khedive said to Arabi, “What do you want?” Arabi seemed now to have completely recovered his Desens of mind, ang with six of his officers by his side repiled, “I have three demands to make of you, and if thee be not granted I have your successor feady. I first: in- sist that the present ministry (the Riaz minis- try) be dismissed; second, the pay of the army must be Increased, as proposed by the military commission. and, third, ag Egyptian parliament mnst be established.” The Khedive, after « short and pose discussion with the ministers, replied: “I grant the first demand. I dismiss the ministry. The other two demands I cannot geod upon without first referring them to the jultan.” As soon as the decree dismissing the Riaz Ministry was signed and handed to Arabi the troops, with music at their head, marched triumphantly from the Palace square, and thus began the drama which ended in the cast-iron piscie of a British army and a “march past” of ighlanders, Beloochees, Guardsmen and Ben- gal cavalry in the same Palace aquate just one year later. The Arabi victorious and trium- phant wasa large, very dark, powerfully built man, with elastic step, commanding presence— man who resembled Dawison, the famous Ger- man ti ian, and who could.make a tortune if he had chosen to act Othello instead of playing the role of a military pretender or, at best, of a tenth-rate Cromwell. Such was the Arabi of a few months ago. The Arabi of to-day is a pale cafe au lait, bloated and haggard fellah. His eyes have lost their brilliancy and extraordl- nary power. His hair, instead of being raven black, is streaked with grey. His once black but now gray mustache ta reinforced by a stub- bly, streaked beard. He now Soop, with a shnfiling, uncertain step. He time fn praying rituals of Islam. attack of diarrhea. and walks passes his an washing—two inseparable le also suffers from a severe le has in his room a large itcher with along nose like tly pour water, which is scented, over hig hands. The poor man, although now treated with the greatest kind- ness, is evidently suffering most severely, both mentally and physically. The sooner the trial begins the better for everybody. An English Giri Ma With “‘annish” mers. I know a young lady who lives down in one of the southera counties, writes an English cor- respondent of the San Francisco Argonaut. She is one of the prettiest giris in, England, has five thousand a yearin her own right, is just three gud twenty, and the daughter of a peer whose.pedigree goes back to the Conquest, and whose country house is the show place of the county. Tolook at her you would think her the quietest of the quiet, and that she hadn’t an idea beyond crochet and weak tea. But she hunts, has her own stable, keeps tour hunters, now and then rides a steeple-chase, buys and sells her own horees without help from anyone: has her own wine merchant, wine cellar, and to- bacconist; fences, boxes, skates, and rows; has her boudoir decorated with foils, gloves, whips, horseshoes, and hunting trophi mokes cizar- ettes during the asy and cigars atter dinner; is a capital judge of claret and port and can tell Amontillado from Marsala with her thes shut; is a. first-rate shot with shotgun or rook-rifie; draws her own charges and pays her own bills; and last, though not least, has a delightful way of letting you see het foot and ankle when she puts one leg over the other on sitting down, that would make a prin old dowager faint and get her sat upon directly by the sly ones. Yet she has never been known to filx, has refused more offers than the quiet ones evér dreamed of receiving, and once, it 1g related, taught the Prince of Wales a lesson | by stopping in the middle of a valse with him | at a State ball at Buckingham Palace, and re- tusing to go on because he held her tighter than she considered ee You can't call a et like that fast. But she knows enough to ke care of herself, and if her companionship with the [heey swells of the day and her imita- tion of their talk and ways has taught her to Valet their friendship to their love it is not un- ikely she is nearer right in her estimate of her tellow-beings than are the meases of pro- priety who regard her with abhorrence but are willing to sell their bashful maidens to the first libertine or titled seapegrdce whose establish- ment and rent-roll make him in their eyes a desirable party. ———___.9-__ President Arthur’s Etiquette, The Art Interchange is authority for the fol- lowing criticism of President Arthur's ideas of etiquette: A night or so agoI saw at the opera some- thing that should be of general interest, as no lesa @ personage than President Arthur is con- cerned. To forestall any apprehensions, I hasten to assure you that it had nothing to do with politics, but involved merely a breach of a which ly falls within the soo} Sr'the Tnlerchange when treating of the wt | idea in its varions phases. We have seen it stated often that at least one thing could be said of President Arthur: “At last we have a gentleman Jn the White House— one who is accustomed to polite society and is an adept in etiquette.” If this were so, I should think he would know that a suitable acknowl of courtesies is a first canon of politeness. He seems to think differently, however, for when. in the entr'acte, the orchestra played «@ national air in his honor, and the audience directed its attention to his henot only at fret sat in his chalr with his head thrown back, and unconcerned, but very soon turned away to converse ce hemy one who chanced to enter— in all probabil! dear 1s not “democratic” behavior, THOROUGHBRED STEEDS. A Pen Picture of the Greniest Horse Market of the World. Correspondence of the Philadelphia Preas. Lexix:tox, Kr., Nov. 2.—‘Here ts the greatest horse market in the world,” said United States Senator James B. Beck to me while sitting upon the porch of the leading hotel of this little city a few daysago. “Our people get more here for horses than they do in New York. There are at least two scores of foreign horse buyers here constantly.” One need not spend more than an hour here to as- certain the truth of Senator Beok’s remark, for from first to last you hear nothing but’“horse” aaywhere in this community. Pictures of fine horses are the agreed decorations of private as well as public houses; and it is the am- bition of ev man to breed a horse, runner or trotter, that ‘will astonish the world. They live that hope, as the goid miner lives w Ely droama wealth ving just beneath the last stroke of his pick. I do not mean to leave the impression tifat are ioraes or superstitious fr thele mettot et or ious in their me! or do they Deosk hecner upon merely theoretical principles. It is the practicalman who achieves success as everywhere else. Almost ever; man here who ownsatarm breeds blooded horses; it ts the one industry that overshadows ali the rest, and leaves its distinotive marks upon the nomenclature and business of the community the same as manufacturing does upon New England, or the iron industry does upon Penn- sylvania. Tobe sure, they raise corn and make the finest of whisky, and gather 9 deal of wheat from their fertile acres, but these seem to be simply incidents of business for these people rather than a general occupation. THE HOME OF THE HORS. Nature really seems to have combined her ifts to make this region peculiarly adapted to the breeding of fine horses. The blue grass seems to be of a peculiarly nourishing char- acter, and it keeps green and ts gt pasture the whole year round. Whilethe frosts of win- ter destroy most other herbage, this famous grass seems like an evergreen. and in the midst of winter stock feed upon it with avidity. The people here claim that the characteristics of the gtass make it easier to raise stock here than anywhere else in the world, and that and the fact that both brood mares and colts can get fresh grass all winter, together with the salubri- ous climate, Laer on colts twice Pose idly as in any other part of the country. ether this be true or not, certain it is that yearling colts, as well as two and three-year-olds, are further developed here than colts a year older bred at at the North. Then, too, the climate or the grass, or both combined, seem to give a warmth to the blood, a style and a spirit fo the animal that are rarely found in horses bred in a more vigorous climate. -exington is the center of this blue grass re- gion, the polnt at which ali this valuable horse interest has its focus, and, therefore, you get the essence of the whole horse business in this pretty little city aud its environs. Within the radius of a dozen miles are a score or more fa- mous breeding establishments. Some of them breed trotting horses exclusively, some breed trotters and runners allke, while others breed only thoroughbreds. The old breeders look with misgivings upon the growth of the trot- ting horse interest; they look upon this rezion as the natural home of the American thorough- bred, and they do not like to see the mixture of the coarser blood necessary to produce trotters mingled with it. Many of them rather regard with contempt the breeding aud development of the trotter, yet this does not hinder the gtowth of the trotting horse Interest, and every year witnesses {ts increasing importance. It ts impossible to convey with the pen the pecullar- ities of this section and its breeding establish- ments, or of the almost fabulous sums of money that are paid here every season for horses and colts. Autumn, BY JOHN G, WHITTIER, From gold to gray Our mild, sweet day Of Indian Summer fades too soon; But tenderly Above the sea Hangs, white and calm, the hunter's moon. Along the street The shadows meet Of Destiny, whose hands conceal the moui ids of fate That shay the State, And make or mar the common weal. Around I see ‘The powers that be. Istand by Empire's primal springs, ‘And princes meet In every street, And hear the tread of uncrowned kings, Barki, Through the crowd ‘The laugh runs loud, Beneath the sad rebuking moon, God save the land A careless hand May shake or Swerve ‘cre morrow’s noon, Not lightly fall recall Beyond The written scrolls a breath may float, ‘The crowntng fact ‘The kinglieat act; Of freedom is the freeman's vote. For pearis that gem A ‘The Giver in the deep sea dies; The regal right We boast to-night: Is ours thrown costiler sacrifice, Our heafts af cold, We lightly hola A right which brave men died to gains ‘The stake, the chord, ‘The axe, the sword— Grim nurses at its birth of pain. Curious Courtships jn: Mund ‘v From the Commercial Advertiser, One of the most curious cases of courtship re- corded happened about the close of the seven- teenth century. The daughter of a Berkshire baronet, who disdained the numerous lovers who attempted to win her affections, finally fell in love with a poor attorney, whom she met him for the first time at a wedding in Reading. She sent him a challenge, alleging that he must give satisfaction for injaries received at his hands. She appeared masked, and gave him the choice of elther Aghting or her. His second, who was also unaware of the woman's identity or the cause of her strange conduct, advised his rincipalto marry her. After the ceremony, luring which she still wore the mask, they drove to her rich home, and arter esepete: J a few moments she returned, and at once vated her husband by her beauty and tasteful dress. This man, Benjamin Child, was after- ward made bigh sheriff of the town. “The History of Woman,” an English work published in 1779, details various methods of a some of the Euro- pean colonies of America. It has the carious statement, which beaux and belles will find it dificult to believe: ‘When two Pennsylvania lovers meet with any remarkable opposition their friends they a off together on lowes behind ber’ In tiie sitnetion tony Sen: . io ion sent themselves ee a mnsylvanin a Ago. skin overcoat, hat and gloves? He carries a gold-headed cane and is followed by a bulldog in @ scarlet blanket ? De,you know btm? ; iy $ 4 p Heeems ny 4 f 5 z f i bl itis i E The Foundation of a Pecultar Japam eve Industry. How many people who are lost in admiration at the exquisite akiN of the castern workman know anything about his methods of work or are able to appreciate the Inbor and persever- ance required for the production of his delicate wares? Some curious information tm one at least of these trades may be found in a newly- fssued report of one of the British consuls on the lacquer industry of Japan, in which are de- scribed the various processes through which lacquer passes from the planting of the tree to the completion of the decoration. Mach dim- culty has been experienced in procuring the tn- pete: jon, as may well be believed when we are told that a large manufacturer was quite una- ware of the method of tapping the trees, and had never seen the wood itself, while hie head workman hardly knew the name of a single ar. ticle of his trade. One of the most interestin, parts of the little blue-book is that d wit the cultivation of the tree iteelf. Growing to all parts of the main island, it flourishes prinel- pally from Tokto northwards. An average tree, ten years old, should be about ten fect nigh, with a trank three inches in diameter, the lacquer being obtained from trees from one to two hundred years old, though the usual age at which they are tapped is ten years. The pro+ cess of tapping Is @ tedious one. occupying many days and requiring a number of tools, such a bark-scraper, a scraping-sickle, a spatula, a pot to hold the sap. After the sap from ti trunk has been gathered the brancherare lop off and tapped in thelr turn, the bark also being utilized. After the sap has been taken, the ex- hausted tree, which remains the property of the seller, is cut down by him, and is used for fire- wood, for building purposes, or for making boxes. In the northern winces very old and large trees are met with in considerable quanti- ties. These were kept for the sake of their ber- ries, from which the wax used for the Japanese candies was obtained. A good workman is ex- pected during the season to tap an ave: of 1,000 trees ten years old, the annaal yield of lacquer being about 190,000 gallons. ——_—+e- Monkeys in India. Tn India, where the monkeys live among meat andare the playmates of their children, the Hindoos have grown #o fond of them that the four-handed folk participate tn all their simple household rites. In the early morning, wheg the peasant goes out to yoke his plough, and ‘the crow wakes up, and the dog stretches him- selfand shakes off the dust in which he has slept all night, the old monkey creeps down from the peepultree, only half awake, and yawns and looks about him, puts a straw in his mouth, nd scratches himself contemplatively. Then one by one the whole family come slip- ping down the tree trunk, and they all yawn and look about and scratch. But they are sleepy and peevish, and the youngsters yet cuffed for nothing, and begin to think life dull. Yet the toilet has to be performed, and whether they like itor not the young ones are sternly pulled up one by one to thelr mother to undergo the process. The scene, though regularly re- pases every morning, loses nothing of its Piper egrre toy and the monkey brate tte 0: or Joke ot “taking fn mamma.” But vung herself not so very long ago, iudicrous affectation of suffering with profoundest unconcern, and as she dis misses one “cleaned” youngster with a cuff es out her hand for the next one’s ta!l or leg in the most business-like and serious man- ner possible. The youngsters know thelr turns quite well, and as each one sees the moment are riving it throws itself on ite stomach, as if over- whelmed with apprehension, the others mean- while stifling their laughter at the capital way so-and-so ts doing It, and the instant the mater- nal paw is extended to grasp Its tail the subject of the next experiment utters a dolorous wai! and throwing Ite arms forward in the di allows itselfto be dragged along, a limp and helpless carcass, wh all the time, no doubt, at its brothers and gi: @t the way it is im- posing on the old lady. But the old lady will stand no nonsense, and turning the child right side up, proceeds to put It to takes the kinks out of its tall and er offspring are, she generally it said, to give each of the ears before It is out of 5 meanwhile, sits gravely with bis these domestic matters, waiting for breakfast. The monkeys by this time have come Closer to ee breparad oe for 2. — sit solemnly, se jousehold, watching every move- ment. Hindoos do not burry themselves tn any- thing they do, but the monkey has lots of tine to spare and plenty of patience, and tn the end, after the crow has stolen a little, and the dog has had its morsel, and the children are all satis- fled, the poor fragments of the meal are thrown out onthe ground for the “‘bhunder-logue” (the monkey le), and it is soon discussed, the mother ling the baby before she eats herself. When every house has thus in turn been visited, and no chance of further * out-dvor re- lief” remains, the monkeys go offto the weil. The women are all here again, drawing the water for the day, and the monkeys sit and walt, the old ones in the front, sententious and serl- ous, and the youn; rs rolling about in the dust behind them, till at last some girl sees the creatures waiting, and “in th id the monkeys come round it in a circle, and stoop down and — with the tails all curled up over their backs like notes o! faterrogation. There is no contention or Jost- Ing. A forward child gets a boxon the ear perhaps, but each one, as it has eutisfled ite Enirst” steps quietly out of the circle, and wipes its mouth. The day thus we Ean reer they go off to see what luck may bring them. The grain dealer's shop tempts them to loiter, but the experience of previous attempts makes theft hopeless; for the bunnya, with all his _ is very nimble on bis legs, and an aston! ing good shot with a pipkin. So themonkeys mere make their salaams to him, and pass on to the they can soon eet they go wander- insect aod