Evening Star Newspaper, October 4, 1882, Page 2

on eet a a AUTUMN FASHIONS. n—The New Redin- | gote—'Th pery—Theater Toil« eties—Science in Clothes. From Our Own Correspondent. Neveltics in D. York. October 3. | hing to do with clothes @ entered the minds of many peor i therefore dress has no true standard. no scientitic exponents. Its devotees @re as icnorant of the laws which should govern it as those who despise it, and both in their ig- Morance are equally mischievous to its best in- terests; while in the m time it becomes more ‘and more of a burden—more and more of a hindrance to a free, active life. Perhaps this is inevitable. Civilization is a Wonderful mason, It builds up invisible walls stronger than those of the old Romans, and Its re- finements are only barriers to our humanity, Dress must follow or keep its place in the eter- Bal march, and all we can do, as individuals, ts to endeavor to apply to it, at least In our case, the same laws of reason and common sense that | ‘we naturally bring to bear onothersubjects. It is Possible that sometime scientifically educated | men and women willsee the importance of exam- | ‘Ining the subject with the seriousness that its in- fiuence upon the health. morals and happineas of mankind at large demand; that it will not be | considered as silly or it has been left matniy to the controt of the un- thinkin to Its detriment. but that such cuidance | ‘Will be afforded as will form a basis for judgment } and give authority for opinion, and. above all, ‘impart to the whole question, practical, ‘a8 well as its theoretical ch intelligent n the hands into lous simply because which it has large! gent young wom fallen. and induce our intelli- to enter the field and be- art, as well as the mechanics of clothes. As yet we have no scientific dressnakers. Our dressmaking is done by accident and in the | merest process of imitation, after the old copy- | book style. Dressmakers rarely know the true | Rames, and still more rarely the qualities of | even the materials they use. As for their in- fluence upon the health ife of the individuai, their suitability for nt purposes, their ‘varying powers of resistance to atmospheric and other conditions, not enter their heads that they have anything to do with these things, | or that there is any reason why they should know | them. Naturally the average wearer knows | even less of such matters than the average | dressmaker, and both fall helplessly back on the uncertain, irrational, constantly changing dic- tum of some self-constituted authority whose vision is narrowed both by interest and ignor- ance: and who simply wishes to keep up the de- mand for seme special item or branch of manu- ‘facture. WHAT ART HAS ALREADY DONE. The present generation cwes a debt of grati- ‘tude already to those artists and art critics and writers who have discussed dress from the art ‘standpoint, and created at least the beginning of a new school in which dress is considered ‘and even worn from the art standpoint. Though ‘the Influence is not yet popularly perceptible— sat Jeast in any marked or generally acknowl- way—it has been strongly felt and has been mainly truthful and refining in its charac- ter. Its value, however, is in the fact that it has lifted dress out of ‘the commonplace into the artistic; that is, has surrounded it with a Rew atmosphere and unconsciously set many to looking at it trom a new point of view. This is “@ great step in advance and we can easily afford ‘%o forgive the vagaries that accompany any or | above a broad band of embroidery, NEW FEATURES IN AUTUMN DESIGNS. of a species hardly applies in this country where The beauty and cost of the new fabrics com- | bitds are so numerous, but the cruelty is the pel aresort to styles which display their splen- dors and at the same time present a plainer sur- face. Thus instead of the much trimmed skirt of plain silk, wool or satin we have a perfectly plain skirt formed of a rich figured material and edged with a thick triple ruching. Tne over- dress may be a‘paniered polonaise drawn away from the front, but extended and draped at the back. Or it may be a coat with tails and a vest, the latter affording abundant opportunities for contrast or ornamentation. The vest isa re- vival of the season, and in connection with the dress coat or frock coat gives a sem!-masculine touch, which is, however, softened by the tull square “Abbe” ties of lace at the throat, and also by the varied color and ornamentation of the garments. The dress coat is short in front; the frock coat long and straight. and accompa- nied by the deep square vest—what is known as the Louis XIVth vest. These styles are not new, but they are the revivais of different periods, and have the effect of novelty to those who haye not made their acquaintance before. ta the fall eat, guimpe, or plaaton: pleated or the full vest, guimpe, or n, or gathered. This Saten extends eee ta throat below the waist, forming afull chemisette above and a sagging puff below the Breton strap belt or buckle which holds it across the front. This puff may be repeated in the front of the skirt brocade or rich figured or painted satin. Or the band of satin maybe piain and enriched with a lace flounce. There are innumerable ways of using to good advantage even a small quantity of a very handsome piece of stuff, and one of the very best is as part of the tablier either above or below the center This is the way bands of Turkish embroidery are used In conjunction with pongee and China crepe in ecru shades. There is a broad general distinction between the arrangement of combined fabrics for even- ing and day wear. Short dresses, as I have re- marked, usually show a figured front, often a plain draped back and plain basque or bodice. Dioner and evening dresses, on the contrary, when made of plain and figured staff, often show asi of the self color, shirred or enriched upon the front with painting or embroldery, and an overdress, in the Watteau style, with small | train of flowered brocade in the striking colors and patterns which have appeared recently. Mrs. John Drew's dresses as Mrs. Malaprop, at the Union Square theater, tell the story of when these designs flourished; and with the excep- tion of the height of the head-dresses, which may possibly reappear with the jewels and the Ieathers during the present season, would serve as elegant models for the elegant dinner and evening dresses of to-day. Of three which she wears the petticoat of one is blue, with train of blue and rose-red brocade; another, brown satin, shirred and divided into puffs, with trained overdress of rich coppery brocade, with an effec- tive design of wheat and daisies tied together upon it. The third is pale mauve, with front of uncut velvet valenciennes lace pattern and Wat- teau overdress-of magnificent brocade shaded in the ground color; corsage bouquet of Jacque- minot roses, and this red reappears in the paint- ing upon the mauve satin fan. There ls ared rose also at the side of the plume of lavender feathers which surmounts the powdered hair. The very long trains, It is a comfort to see, are generally abandoned. At the Oriole ball at the Academy of Music, in Baltimore, where were many beautiful and new dresses, only one very long square train was observed, and this be- longed to a white satin dress that was not new, and it looked old, absurd and out of place. The long square trains always were ungracetul and inartistic, because they have no more connec- tion with the rest of the skirt than the tail to a kite. Still the latter is supposed to have a use movement for the sake of the beauty, the va- miety, the healthy activity which are the result “of the movement itself. The next step maybe ‘mm the scientific direction. it is possible, too, that the averaze American woman is the coming waviour, the apostle of the new religion of sensi- ‘Wie, healthful, beautiful dress, well thought out, weil made and specially adapted to its func- ‘tions. Should this be the case we shall learn to ‘know and appreciate fabrics and put them to heir proper uses; we shall in time be able to @Mistinguish colors and even shades, and know ‘Row to adapt them to ages, conditions and per- ons. We shall in short make our fashions in- ‘@tead of allowing them to make us. It is to the Anfiuence of art that we owe themodern develop- ‘ment of form, and to this and scientific discovery ‘m its application to decorative objects, the ‘movement and variety in color. It is to art also ‘hat -veare indebted for the revival of ornamen- @ation upon the material, while mechanical has aided it by imitations, which being ‘auch nearer the reach of the majority,who have Mitherto been excluded by its cost from ap- ‘ropriating It. It is still, however, an open ‘question how far this higher influence shall ex- tend, and whether we shall permit It to do for Us the good it is capable of doing if it were treated with the thought and attention it de serves. In dress we have not as yet made a single broad step beyond the boundaries of the con- Wentional and thecommon place. We allow the Hneursions of original designs, and particularly the révival of old ideas, to diversify the mon- etony of wood and brownstone, and give an air ‘of individuality to the interior of modern ‘houses; but the dress of the occupants ts more ‘alikeand more commonplace even. With all | the world to choose from, we accept the least | desirable because we are acquainted with it, and Lansrroang it relieves us from burdens and A sponsibility, such as endeavoring to carry an fmtroduce the new always entails. THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS. Inthe meantime the manufacture. of fabrics which justifies its existence—it is intended to “balance the kite’ so that it will fly. The uare tail at the end of askirt has no reason atever for its being. It is unbecoming; it is in the way; it isa mere senseless incumbrance which should never again have an existence. The occasion above alluded to afforded an ex- cellent opportunity for judging of the wide range allowed in the choice of material and the making of ball and evening costumes. A short dress of rich pale pink satin, for ex- ample, was made perfectly plain—brocade front, straight gathered back. .A white brocade with pearled lace laid flat upon the front was made as a full Mother Hubbard; gathered and fitted only at the neck; elbow sleeves trimmed th pearled lace. A striking dress exhib— ited a front of puffed satin, with delicate embroidered panels and Watteau train of pale peach blossom ribbed plush, the rib containing minute dashes of color, invisible, but repeated in the embroidered ornamentation. A very Tich black dress had a front of satin em- broidered in richly shaded colors, the foliage in dull greens and olives and train of moire, with alternating stripe of brocade. Nearly all the dancing dresses were short, and this is so advantageous in many ways, so particularly favorable to comfort, the convenience of gen- tlemen and decency, that it is hard to imagine our bright young women submitting to trains again for dancing dresses. To evening dresses cut, a not very low square, it is common now to add a tulle or fine India muslin fichu, crossed in the Charlotte Corday style. Round the neck a pendant is then suspended by a black velvet ribbon. : THE NEW REDINGOTE. “Supply what ladies want,” said an old dry- goods merchant of New York, “and the goods will sell themselves; they will not require push- ing.” This axiom, if it may be accepted as such, certainly applies to the new Tedingote—a long, straight garment, which en¥elopes the person, and is edged with a thick triple ruche. The co- operative store, which is the most practical ot our women’s clothing institutions, was first in the field with this garment, which has obtained has gone far ahead of our knowledge of how to put them to good use. The spectacle of their | desecration, their almost annihilation by crude | and cruel methods of cutting, dragging, gath- | ering and torturing 1s one to make an artisan | who has found pleasure in seeing a b | of cloth grow under his eyes weep. We | ve how quantities of rich material. for which | nature's deepest recesses, the gathered treasu- | ries of museums and ali the repositories of art | have been searched for their production, yet | for any sympathetic impression t make on their soulless cutters and wearers they might be kitchen toweling. It would be well for those who are engazed in looking back for historical hints in regard to | costume to carefully consider the lovely artistic | and exquisite old colors employed in the | early part of this century. No other style on | Fecord will compare with it for delicacy, daintl- | Ness and artistic effect. They were restricted | to be sure, no material was wasted, but there Was an absolute retinemert about them, a grace and gentleness that appeal at once to the culti- | vated perception, and a simplicity of outline most favorable to the display of the lines of beanty, both in form and fabric. What is to be done in these days of bunching and “drapery,” with the magnificent brocades and tapestried materials, it is hard to Say. is an effort to reverse the order of the China figures of the seventeenth century and ‘use the fiured stuffs fer the untrimmed short skirt; the plain for the draj overdress which is often made with the Watteau plait in the Deck. But this invoives for dinner OF ev ‘Wear (except for dancinz) a sort of court or one distinct trom the skirt, and this is Very easy and therefore can never be popular. Tt used to be said that fashion ceased to be fashion when it was seen upon the is to say, when it had reached the majority. Butthis is not at all so true as formerly. Science and machinery have cheapened luxuries so that they are within the reach of a larger number, onal jane care time —— —— ‘ing more . and women are acquiring the pecuni which enables them to Become to @ greater extent than they have heretofore. These facts do not affect women who are very rich in their own right, or the wives of very wealthy men; but they largely modify the modern demand for such personal belongings as used to be restricted to an ex- clasive class, and they make it more diMfcult to maintain exclusiveness ot style or design in the face of the increasing competition and craze for Rovelty. In fact it is disecvered that exclusiveness fs | guarantee of the best thing; It 1s | Rot always the often only the stam of authority put upon the conventional and the commonplace. Original- ity Is not unfrequently derived from the ham- have dindainea it, had they Rousd it ics hot ni . t found it in its hi and uncredited. take it ‘hight Price tor it when it comes through a recognized channel. Ignorance puts us ‘2 the mercy of , and in nothing is this more true in the art of dress and the employment of a vogue abroad as a substitute tor the ulster, and the demand is already weeks in advance of the supply. There are two grades in these red- ingotes, both of which are shaped exactly alike, but differ in material and finish. The finer grades are made of soft chuddah and other French and Indian wools, lined throughout with twilled French lining silks and thickly ruched with soft, dull twilled silk or satin. The more popular kinds are of all-wool cloth and mixed suitings, dark and sufficiently fine for any ordi- Rary use. These are only lined in the waist and sleeves, and are ruched with the material which is pinked out on the edge. The usefulness of these garments for fall wear is self evident. They are excellent for driving, walking, trayel- ing, and all purposes where service is required in city or country, They are protective against storms; they cover up a rather worn and faded dress; and yet contrive to ayold the appearance of the water proof. The favorite colors are bot- tle green, very dark wine color, gray and black Amore dressy out-door garment is a combi- nation of the long dolman with the Mother Hub- bard. it has the doiman back and sleeves, but is gathered at the neck and waist. There is an interior belt which holds it in, and moire ribbon loops at the throat, upon thesleeves which are gathered at the waist and below the shirring behind. The length is a matter of taste, but the more elegant nearly covered the dress. The materials are cashmere, ee and in India pat- terns—iined with old gold silk (twilled.) being The jackets are all braided, the designs a partly in flat, are in knife-edged executed patterns and the most fashionable conjunction, as remarked in my last letter, with the braided Pocket, ts effected by the new ids in shaded owns and cut bias stretched plain Take ai nee a ut ing “*kinked” at the side and called “Theo.” rm BONNETS INSTEAD OF HATS. Ingenuity seems to have been exhausted in millinery, for there is nothing new this season to chronicle so far. The most notable things are very simple in style, and recall the bonnets of forty years ago to those who have seen them. They are bonnets without an Soak —targe i crown and brim, and Tined with dawn alk oF satin In @ contrasting color, such as pale pink with or brown, ‘aoe with bottle- bow upon jet the eon Th ehaanae di but it e hat nm peared, but it 1s subordi- nated to the bonnet, which is able because it is uncertain and vibrates like a pendulum between the large and small, the thatched roof and the close green; garnet interior for eagerly and pay a high | ing fabrics. Why, bright, well educated American girls do not take up this department and trained taste and intelligence into is comprehension. There is more money in than inlaw or medicine. Fi r umber well. ‘When same everywhere and the taste is haem 2 to be beep! questionavle that will spit a bira, taken alive for the purpose, and with its. sweet song still in its throat, upon a bonnet and wear it for an ornament. Most charming bonnets come from Paris, con- sisting of white felt, white Sicilenne, white uncut velvet and white satin In the quaintest littie shapes imaginable. They have oval or upright crowns and queer turn-up, or half rolled over brims, which, if of felt. are lined with shirred silk or satin, and trimmed with full ostrich feathers re curled over the edge of the brim, and thick corded or satin ribbon. The large scoop and small poke bonnets are the favorites for little girls. Hats selected for them have very broad brims, are set well back upen the head, and trimmed ‘with satin and pompons. Later beaver will be in the ascendant. THEATER TOILETS. Since theater parties came into vogue a great deal of attention is paid to theater toilets, and many ladies arrange for them by having the half worn skirt of a handsome dinner or evening dreas made over short, and a new velvet plush or brocaded jacket added which gives char- acter and freshness while, at the same time preserving the harmonies of color, or adding a cortrasting color to the tollet? Black velvet braided or embroidered with gold, ruby plush, or satin, amber beading or silk embroidery in colors, styles, or designs which would be con- sidered a little too pronounced for ordinary oc- casions, are, if handsome, excellent for the theater, where almost anything but the shabby will pass master. Of course something depends upon the position. Occupants of boxes in full view of the audience require to have every de- tail of their dress carefully considered, and may dress as for an afternoon reception or an eve- ning at the Academy of Design. but the ordi- nary theater-goer does not occupy a box but a reserved seat which is somewhat narrow, and on which a long or much trimmed skirt is a nul- sance and cumbersome, while the freshness of a new one would be entirely thrown away. It is, therefore, a wise economy tor young ladies, especially who go into society much and to the theater often, to reserve their newest for occa- sions when they are required, and take advan- tage of the present rage for independent jackets and bodices to utilize them with their worn skirts for theater and semi evening purposes. Esthetic toilets, too, may be worn at the the- ater. One observed lately was of sage green velvet, with square puff inserted in the neck of graysatin and puffing of satin over the elbow. The collar was cut -in squares at the neck and lined and puffed with gray satin, and this also was the method of finishing the short basque. A gray satin bag held up the skirt at the side. ORNAMENTAL NOVELTIES. New designs in lace pins exhibit a small high crowned hat in solid gold at one end, trimmed with a white ostrich feather, in colored. real silver, or in white silver set with seed pearls, and a dainty parasol nearly closed at the other. There are small ivy and flower sprays also in silver enriched with coral or forget-me-nots In turquoise with enamelled flies here and there upon the twigs or leaves. Two littie owls upon an ivy branch of the minutest proportions are quaintly suggestive, and there are straight bars of real silver set with pearls, two rows of small seed pearls, for example, inclosing one of ine pink coral, turquoise, or amethyst which are really fine, and a great improvement so far as style or taste 1s concerned, or anything shown heretofore in what has been considered secon- dary jewelry. The old-fashioned hand bags which ladies carry are not likely to go out of fashion; they are 80 convenient, especially for middle aged ladies, and make such welcome presents. In some of the New England country villages they are made as summer souvenirs, and sold to ladies who bring them to town and exhibit them among their treasures. An unadvertised but thriving trade 1s also carried on in these places by clever needle women in needle books, embroidered shoe bags and card cases, for ali of which there is ready sale. A famous silver firm in New York has won golden opinions by the recent happy idea of enclosing its smaller articles in rich bags, which ladies can carry, instead of cases. The bags are made of the richest mater- ialg, lined with satin, drawn with all silk cords. High art colors and the choicest designs are used, and the bag 1s often more valued than the silver. It is particularly useful for a wedding present of sterling quality but not very large proportions, for the costly velvet and satin-lined cases and boxes are often useless encumbrances, while the dainty bag (or “scarcella”) takes up no room, and is a beauty and a joy forever, JENNY JUNE. —————+e-—______ NEW YORK MANSIONS. Hardly Any Ground Available on Which to Build New Residences, From the New York Sun. Not much space remains upon Fifth ayenue for those who may desire to build costly man- sions, and it 1s something of a question where future splendid residences will be erected. The mistake made by millionaires who have erected grand mansions has been to set them in a crowd- ed street upon the sidewalk’s edge, thus de- priving them of the first suggestion of the owners great wealth, viz., spacious grounds. A flamboyant front is about the only exterior distinction that can be given to a rich man’s city house, where space is limited, and the taste of adopting such a peculiarity does not go un- questioned. Upon the Boulevard, Riverside Drive, Eighth avenue, and the heights west of Morningside Park remain sites where fine | houses may be erected amid shade trees and winding drives, but thatis about the only region left below Harlem river. A continuance of cur- rent prosperity must bring with it a new genera- tion of rich men, and they naturally. would give New York suburban scenes of luxurious architecture and tasteful landscape if they could find suitable building spots. —<$. Dorsey’s Vote of Confidence. From,the Philadelphia Press. Stephen W. Dorsey has been elected chairman of the republican state central committee of Arkansas. This is a vote of confidence which Tecalls the one given to Colonel Yell, of Yell- ville, Arkansas, many years ago. Colonel Yell a8 amember of the legislature had shared in several very fat stealings, and when he came up for renomination there was naturally even in Arkansas some objection to his record. The opposition was routed, however, and the Colo. nel triumphantly renominated by a speech from his friend Zeb Harking, who concluded by driv- ing a huge bowie-knife into the table before him and exclaiming: “We admit that Colonel Yell got his share of the spiles an’ that he plays draw an’ consumes more sodcorn whisky than any man in the legislature; but he loves the old flag, and his heart always beats warmly for his native land.” : Colored People in an Indiana Melon- Patch. From the Evansville Argus. ‘The other day a train load of colored people were traveling on the Louisville and Chicago road, and it became necessary for the train to be ‘side-tracked to wait for another to pasa. While waiting they noticed a melon-patch near the station. They looked at it and their mouths watered. They restrained themselves for a mo- ment untill a colored boy got over the fence and broke open 4 melon across his knee. The ht of the melon seemed len than ten seconds the whole men was over the fence. The whistled, the fireman rang the bell and elled “aboard,” but. they came ruined two acres of melons owner of the fleld went c: ‘as he saw them spreading over his farm and the conductor was wild as he saw the floors of the cars, but nobody could look at the happy faces, with hescut in the centre by sharpened slices of melon, without oa what was the farmer's loss was their Autumn Summer Resorts, The Hotel Brighton, Brighton Beach, closed Monday. Lenox is to havea wedding this week, and 80, too, is No United States and Grand the last ik Union, Serntoge’ the. the exodus is Milford, Pa., famous for scenery and has visit ey ee be Meenas tors now’ as at ‘Up among the Berkshire t ip sob wal awaline quite and the chestnut season LETTER FROM TENNESSEE. Washington and Chattanooga—Remin-= iscences—A Rapid Development—Ten. messee Politics—The Debt Issue, &c. Special Correspondence of Tae EVENING STAR. CHatraxooGa, TENN., October 2. After having lived in Washington for nearly four years, it seems rather strange to return to this driving city of Chattanooga, nestling here among the hills of East Tennessee. From Wash- ington, with its magnificent, broad, clean av- enues and streets and well-kept parks, to Chat- tanooga, with its one business street and no place of public resort, the transition is marked. Here, however, ‘the ‘music of the wheel and spindle and the rush of commercial enterprise, in @ measure egmpensate one for the loss of congressional artillery and legislative thunder. We have our blessings as well as other Places, and it 1s the part of a wise people to make the most of them. Chattanooga has Promise of @ brilliant future, and her citizens are thorefore buoyant and hopeful. As theseat of sy Sick operations during the war, Chattanooga commands great historic in- terest. Situated at the base of Lookout moun- tain, that silent sentinel of its people's destiny, it is within a short distance of the famous bat- tle-flelds of Chickamauga, Mission Ridze and Lookont mountain. These hotly-contested fields are inscribed in blood in the annals of the na- tion. The name of Gen. Garfield, asa soldier, is Inssperanly linked with the bloody work on the field of Chitkamauga. The withdrawal of the confederate Gen. Bragg from his command was the result of his clumsy operations at Chat- tanooga and “Lookout mountain. Mission Ridge, where the confederates met such disas- trous defeat, 1s easily discernible from one of our hills. In this conneetion Iam reminded of & description of the engagement at Mission Ridge by a confederate ee who occupied a position in the first rank on the brow of the hill. The Union forees, who were stationed at the base of the hill, at the order to march, came steadily up the undulating slope, thelr bright arms glistening in the glorious sunlight, and fd not falter once, although they were march- ing to almost certain death from the leaden hail of the determined enemy. As the front line would be mown down, its place would be rap- idly filled, with scarcely waver in the ad- yancing army. And thus the federal forces con- tinued to advance until the confederate army was flying pell-mell down the other side of the hill. ‘These things and many others of a similar kind are called to mind at the mere mention of Chattanooga. THE CHATTANOOGA OF TO-DAY can scarcely be recognized as the offspring of the muddy little railway station of war times, except by its location, which was designated by nature for the establishment ofa great city. The principal part of the city now lies between two great hills, to the east and west, the Tennessee river to the north, and Lookout mountain to the south. The Tennessee river almost entirely surrounds the town; the only outlet being py way of Lookout mountain. During the great floods of 1867 and 1873 we were wholly hemmed in by water and had to perch ourselves ‘upon the high hills and patiently wait for the waters’decline. The growth and expansion of the city are now encroaching upon the majority of the hills, and numbers of handsome resi- dences are now seen dotting the ‘ighlands. Many soldiers of both armies who were hero a {ear ago at the reunton of the Army ofthe Cum- rland and had not seen Chattanooga before since the war,expressed themselves as delighted and astonished at the scene that met their eyes from the brow of Cameron hill, where they were encamped. Cameron is the largest hill in the vicinity, situated at the west side of the town, and the view from its summit is at once com- manding and beautifal. During the war the batteries stationed upon this hill were a com- plete protection to every available entrance to he town. From here, stretching to the north and east, enchanting views can be had of the Tennessee river winding among the distant hills like @ silver thread. The river flowing on washes the base of Cameron hill at the edge of the town, and dashing onto the west and south, lashes the granite foot of Lookout mountain. The view from that portion of the Nashville and Chattanooga railroad that sweeps around the base of the mountain is grand. From Cameron hill the now thriving city of Chattanooga lies to the south and east, and forms a marvelous contrast to the shabby mis- carriage of a town that Bragg’s soldiers gazed upon from the cloud-shrouded summit of Look- out. To the east of the city Fort Wood, General Grant’s headquarters for some time, is located. Only a few years ago (two or three, perhaps,) the very stump on which General Grant used to sit while smoking his cigar was pointed out to the curious visitor. Even stumps of trees were luxuries in those hostile days, and often formed capital resting plates for the weary soldier. While the memories of the war are an important feature in the history of Chattanooga, they do ne form the only interest that attaches to the place. THE RAPID DEVELOPMENT of the vast mineral resources of East Tennessee isa boon to thigthe most important city and railroad center ‘in this section of the state. Manufactories of every description have sprung up here in the past few years, and the good work still goes on. We are struggling for pre- eminence, and will doubtless gain it in the course of time. The opening of the Cincinnati southern rallroad is bringing the wholesale trade along its line to Chattanooga, which is pid!y becoming a wholesale center. Everything is made here now, from a nali to a pipe organ, including aldermen and candidates for the legislature and Congress. We have even had a member of the Cabinet, who unassum- ingly lives among us now, as if he had never seen Washington and the Cabinet. TENNESSEE POLITICS. And that reminds me that although we have many blessings for which I hope we feel duly thankful, still Tennessee and Chattonooga have not escaped politics and the politicians. You can find a candidate for governor stuck around anywhere, with more nolse and fewer principles, than any one on record. Two wings of the Ten- nessee democracy Insist that they (each of them) have the only true edition of a demo- cratic candidate for the governorship. They call each other, respectively. the readjusters and the bolters, with very small “r’s” and “b's,” and each wing maintains that the other has no platform and no principles, and that they indi- vidually are fighting for the only true prin- ciples upon the only genuine democratic plat- form. LAS all this strife and confusion the re- publicans quietly smile and go about electing their man, whom allege can see all the other candidates and go them about fitty per cent better in the matter of platform and prin- ciples, The republicans really have the inside track and willno doubt elect thelr candidate, who occuples the gubernatorial chair at present, The greenbackers, not to be outdone, come out as big as anybody and say that they will have a candidate ; “candidates bein’. cheap,” as Artemus Ward would say, The greenbackers hold a kind of little-dog-laughed-to-see-the- sport position with reference to the others in the field. THE DEBT ISSUE. That faction that proposes to settle the debt upon the basis agreed upon with the creditors is deserving of success. The republicans seem to hold the right views upon the debt question andare therefore entitled to the support of all ‘men having the true welfare of the state at heart. mngressional race in this, da perp intone tatoed and wi contested than the 8d district, ili be more hotly any race here for some years. Gen. Dibrell hgs the strongest opponent this time that he has.ever had, and it will push him greatly to be eledted. Ifthe republicans go into the canvass as vigorously as they say they will and asthe circumstances warrant, their candi- date (Judge D.C. Trewhitt) will pony be elected. Judge Trewhitt ‘will, yond all doubt, poll the entire republican yote and will gain many votes from democrats who are dis- satisfied with Gen. Dibrell and his isea to give place in the democratic conventions to other candidates. He has not to run any more for at least two times. IfCol. to lose her cottage peo- der large. THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 1882—DOUBLE SHEET. A HUBBICANE AT SEA, gy ceeycned of the Steamer Venice—The ief Officer Washed Overboard and Thesteamer Venice, which arrived in New York Saturday from Yokohama, brings a tale of wild seas anc terrific winds, during which her decks were converted into a scene of havoc and her chief officer was washed overboard and lost. After leaving Yokohama on June 29 the steamer touched at Shanghal, Amoy, Hong Kong, Singa- Pore, Aden, Suez, Port Said and Gibraltar. Un- til September 25 the vessel experienced light airs and fine, sunshiny days, but on that date the wind freshened, and thick, rainy weather set in. This developed into a hurricane, which gradually increased in force until the afternoon of the 28th, when the sky was as biack as ink and the waves were rolling mountains high. “It was about latitude 39 deg, 45 min. and Woe de Settee ia te o'clock,” 5 “an Sea became so wild that {did not deem It pra- dent to run ay. longer before the wind. We were abreast of the Georges shoals then and pccerations were made to layto. In halfan ur the ship’s 8] was reduced and she lay n were putting an extra sheet on the staysail; I was be aoe to go below and asked the chief officer, Mr. Thomas Elliott, to take my place and keep a sharp lookout, He laughingly responded, ‘All right,” and went up on the bridge at once. I had hardly got down the companionway when an awful sea struck the ship on the port side forward, washing the decks from stem to stern and filling the waist of the vessel for a minute or 80 level with the top of the deck house. Every man who was on deck had to hold on for dear life, and one of the sailors was whirled the whole length of the deck before he could get a gtiponsrail. When the water cleared away the chief officer was missing. Thinking he might have crept forward, where four men were lashed to the wheel,we made a search for him, but all in vain. One of the crew saw him spring toward an iron railing on the bridge just as the great wall of water rose above him. Poor Elliott must have been knocked senseless, for he never uttered a cry for help. Hecame from Salcombe-Regis, England, where his young bride of less than a year awaits his return. He was a bright, gallant young man. Of course nothing could be done for him, as the ocean was in a terrible condition, and we had to look out tor the vessel. Soon after the weather quieted down, and although it blew pretty hard straight along, we arrived without further accident.” ‘The woodwork on the deck was torn away In @ number of places, and even strips of iron bolted over the hatch covers were ripped off and bent like cardboard by the water. The end of one of the life-boats on deck was cut off by the waves as clean as though it had peen done byanax. The deck wa; sprang in many places, and even the panel work on the deck house was swept away, despite its strong fastenings. THE NEW WAY OF HEATING. Steam in the Streets—No Furnaces—No Stoves, Etc. From the New York Herald. _ Precisely where the introduction of steam served through mains may lead us is as yet only an imagination, but it may be supposed that in respect to fires in our houses and to the ordl- nary evolution of power it will make a revolu- tion as complete as that made by gas in the ban- ishment of the candle and the lamp trom city houses, or even as the more thorough revo- lution by which Croton water made cisterns and pumps unknown facts for many yeara. It may come about that the stove and the furnace will not be even social sur- vivals, and that the coil in the corner of the room will be all that the next generation will know in the way of heating apparatus. But the placing of another set of pipes under the streets. will ‘haps prove a great trouble and will enforce the necessity for making some pro- vision for them which will di with the neceasity of an excavation every tlmerepairs are required. With gas pipes, water pipes, steam pipes and pneumatic tubes,all under the streets, and the telegraph, telephone and electric light- ing wires, all to be put there one of these days, the contrivance of a regularly constructed pipe way with a movable cover will be forced upon us. This might be near to the curbstone, under one ofthe sidewalks, and need not make any ob- struction upon the surface. . ————_—-o-_____ TRAVELING BY EXPRESS. The Pleasures of It, the Wonders and the Financial Side. From an Article in the London Times, Everybody remembers Dr. Johnson’s’ panegyric onthe charms of a rapid journey along a good road in a post-chaise. He thought life could afford nothing better, unless it were a walk down Fleet street or unlimited tea drinking. The speed and the certainty, in the absence of broken wheels, the smoothness of the highway and the alacrity of post-boys and postmasters, delighted him with a sense of perfect adjust- ment. It would be interesting to learn what excess of encomiums he could devise to meet the due of traveling by express were he brought back foran interval to survey this world of steam. We described on Thursday the cost of average fast express train on an American rat way. Atrain with a modern complement of eight cars is appraised at £17,000. Each of the three palace cars it commonly includes has cost £3,000 at least, and not seldom £5,000 or £6.000. Whatever can minister to comfort is provided. The smoker can smoke without annoying his neighbors. The hungry and thirsty can eat and drink. The studious can buy libraries of fiction fresh from the British manufactory, only cheap- ened. By day the indolent repose on splendid divans. At night the tired sleep as softly as at home. Luxuries are supplied for the eye as well as the other physical and intellectual organs. If there be a fault at all it is some redundance of magnificence. A passenger by one of these cars might, if he were reconciled to incessant loco- motion, live In the midst of the most gorgeous upholstery, with a fair provision of conveniences to match, at a rate of expenditure which would barely suffice for the maintenance of a middle-class establishment in a country town. Although English railway trayeling is not alto- gether so liberally arranged, the difference Is chiefly of degree. For the solid equipments of @ railway journey an English company is not less generous than an American. In some essential particulars the comparison may even be in favor of this country. Where there have been shortcomings they are being quickly made good. Passengers by one or two lines can obtain refreshments. ‘On several lines there are Pullman cars. More than one company is com- mencing the experiment of imitating the United States fashion of conveying the h not derive: their Fightful prott, trom thelt eae not ive el ion in crowds is not the result of a reluct- ance In the individuals to give up their inde Residents in towns are ‘THE LONDON POLICE. How it is Controlied—its Members—In- teresting Facts. Superintendent McGargle, of the Chicago po lice, writes to the common council of that city, as follows: London, perhaps more than any other city In the world, presents the best field for the study of a policesystem. It has in its elements al- most every possible class of human beings, whether regarded from a social or national standpoint. It is therefore to be inferred that a Police management which controls this enor- mous aad diverse population must be one of a high order and worth a close examination, The management of the police force of Lon- don is vested in a board of commissioners, and this board operates under laws made by and not those made by s municipal body. There is @ chief commissioner, who corresponds with the chiet of police in American cities, the two other commissioners being known as assistants. Besides these there are four district superin- tendents, who have under them five superin- tendents each. There are also inspectors, ser- geants and constables, the latter being the eame as our pelicemen. This force, including all ranks, numbers 11,205 men, who look to the protection ot nearly 5,000,000 people. The area covered by the Metropolitan police includes the metropolis, the military stations and govern- ment dockyards. There are twenty districts, each of which is designated by a letter of the alphabet, and each policeman’s division is des- ignated bya letter on his coat and a number shows the subdivision to which he is assigned. The twenty divisions are divided into subdi- visions, which are controlled by inspectors, and — ect oad into peeps which are mere the charge of sergeants, and these are again di- vided into beats, which are measured and pa troiled by the constables. A portion of the police force, under the direc- tion of an official known as thedirector of crimi- nal inspection, is employed as a detective force. In thts department is included a convict office, which employs one inspector and eight officers, and in which are kept criminally classified albums of photographs and masks of all convicts discharged on license and of all persons who are under police supervision. Records of all crim!- nals are also kept here. An applicant for a posi- tion on the force must send hisapplication to the commissioner, and certificates of character tur- nished by reputable people. Applicants are re- quired to be leas than thirty-five years of age, be able to read and write, be intelligent and free from any constitutional difficutties, and hare no more than three children if married. Thecondl- tions of accepting a position are that he shall give his whole time to the service; carry on no trade; that his wife shall not keep a shop; that he is to pay all his debts; that when sick, aaa rule, he shall submit to a deduction of one shil- ling a day; that there shall be a deduction of one shilling a week from his salary if he is unmar- ried; that he shall not resign unless permitted; that he may be dismissed without any reason, and that when thus dismissed he shall forfeit all Pay. There are three classes of constables. When first appointed a man gets $6 a week; when advan to the second class his pay is In- creased to about $6.75, and when he reaches the first class he receives $7.50 per week. In addl- tion to this pay he receives his pees and equipments, a certain amount of coal, and lodg- ings, when he is asingle man. Gratuities are granted by the secretary of state. One month's pay may be given after five years’ service; after thirty years of service, at the age of sixty years, ® pension equal to three-fifths of the pav, and pensions for life of an amount commensurate with the clroumstances of the case. Any of these pensions may be forfelted in case the re- ciplent engages in any act which is unlawful, or in we deat! which may be regarded as dis- graceful or injurious. The men are thoroughly drilled in formations, marching and facing, and, in certain cases, in the use of the revolver. There isa library at each of the twenty divisions, which is furnished and kept in repsir bya subscription of two cents @ month by each member of the force. There are nearly 300 blanks to be used in reports, which refer to the matters that come up under the control of the police. ————-o-—____ Outre Mer. A speck of white in a boundless sea; ‘A fleecy mote in a sky of blue; And the wastes that stretch round me Are flecked with thoughts of you. Accrimson streak in the apeep Bat dnl ‘A lonely gleam through the night; And you abide in the ray, And in the golden light. Acadence soft from the night wind’s moan; A diamond drop from the sullen rain; And ghosts of your tear and tone Invest my soul tn pain. Out of my life the fairest thing; ‘Out of my heart a Yearning sigh, Till the mocking stretches ring With my unavailing cry, ‘Till reachi1 e my spirit hand: ‘And spanniag time, and fate, and sea, They reach to other lands, And draw you unto me. James K. Durry, attic FOOD MORE ATTRACTIVE THAN FLIRTATION. A Novel Story. Many of the younger women were really cap- tivating in torm, having plump and rounded bust and figure, regular features, sparkling black eyes, small hands and feet that many a white-skinned lady would envy, and exhibited an elasticity in gait and motion resulting from perfect health and freedom from laces and cor- sets, writes a correspondent of the Pittsburg Commercia! trom the Cheyenne agency at Fort Benton. C.F.E., a popular banker at Aber- den. Dakota, succeeded in getting a vi in- te:es ing flirtation under way with one of these ideal maidens and was deeply in the midst of his romance when it was rudely and unpoetically broken off by the cry that the slaughter ot the beeves had commenced, which caused a greater palpitation in the organs of the maiden’s appe- tite that he had been able to create in the ten- det chords of her sentiment, and she quickly ran away to secure her share in the slices of raw meat. My friend is discouraged and will hereafter seek the object of which he has dreamed, one of those fairy creatures of crino- line that eat not. neither do they spin, but lve and have their being from the sweet aroma of cultivated flowers in @ world of sentiment and esthetic love. Long After. Isee your white arms gliding In music o’er the k Long as Ing lashes: ing blue like summer seas; ‘The sweet lips wide 7 sing; That nog bet I could not choose but wi ‘You seemed s0 fair a thing. > For ali these after pane nee Tstill can hear your laughter, The golden hair; I could not chouse but wonder, You were so strangely fair. WONDERFUL HOLEs. ‘The Wealth that Comes from the Pits mear Leadville. B.F. Taylor in the New York Examiner. The city of Leadville is yet called the “Camp.” Four years ago it was a cabin in the wilderness. To-day it has a permanent population of 20,000, and a drift of 5,000 more. Two years ago there were 40,000 people within the delivery of the post office. There are esthetic tendencies though I did not see a sunflower or a cat-tail, or stork standing on one leg. Thus bootblack queen of May. about, for among the mines are the “Highland Ghee “Lowland Chief,” “Highland Mary, bss .” to say nothii ng “For Burns, of “Buckeye,” ulture, saken” and thi Bove a STAR ROUTE FRAUDS UNP ROFTT. ABLE, ‘The Tweed Lesson; From the Providence Journal. There 1s some consolation in thinking that if the star route conspirators escape punishment through legal technicalities, they will not find fraud very profitable in the long run, although the original plunder was very large. A couple of trials, with such array of lawyers as they feel compelled to employ to exhibit the strength of ther family affection and weaxnesses In the law against conspiracy, must absorb a very consider- able percentage of the returns from the most Profitable mall route, and if, as rumored, ex- Senator Dorsey is about to secure the services of Gen. Butler, he will have to go down deep into his pocket-book. That defender of the op- pressed does not employ his eloquence and in- xenuity for nothing. On the whole, it does not pay to steal,even asa matter of busines. The amount of Boss Tweed’s plunder was credibly estimated at seven millions, but afew years of the ex- pense of defending himself in the courts, heavy il bonds, transfers tor security, and such things incident to the determined prosecution to which he was subjected, reduced tt so much that he was not a rich man when he died In jail, and his family are hardly in comfortable = niary circumstances. And when his persed one like Sweeney and Connolly, secured a portion of their plunder by flight or compromise, tt was hardly earned by exile and infamy. The prov- erb that ill-gotten gains never is illus- trated in more ways than one, and the mere ex- pense incident upon fraud isa heavy drawback upon its profits. The star routers are in a fair way to learn this. EMMA ABBOTT. ‘The Hotel-Keeper’s Terror. Emma Abbott calls herself the “hotel-keep- ers’ terror.” She has written down and commit- ted to memory a long list of things she requires about herroom. When she “interviews” s land- implores him to give her a corner Toom, on the top floor, away from all bells, where no one can walk overhead, ina part of the house, etc., and so she runs on until he becomes des- perate and willing to mise anything and everything. If the hi were seventeen stories high, she would want a room in the seventeenth story. And then she shuts the blinds, and and bangs blankets and Tugs over the windows and transom, so as to shut out every ray nd light, gut she says, her nerves are 80 wrought upon performance of an opera that she rapping almost until morning, and at last when she does fall asleep the slightest gleam of light awakens her again. ——_—__~<e+_____ BARNES THE EVANGELIST. From the Cincinnati Enquirer. The announcement that Barnes, the Evange- list, would explain why he “follows the example of Jesus,” anointing the sick with oll, was the means of drawing a considerable audience in Melodeon hall. There were about '500 the audience being what might be termed a critical one; such an one as had probably come to ju of the lety of his methods. Mi g Ried inatal a im gentleman, with black halr, a sandy mustache, and dark eyebrows, which give him a peculiar jpear- ance. He is slightly stoop-should and wore a sult of plain black. He is anything but a segue in appearance. While = ing he has an odd way of knitting his yw, which Is by no means pl , though his ad- dress is very entertaining. His voice is note epee one, but after listening to him for a few moments it loses its peculiarity, which might be called harsh and his hearers be- come absorbed in the solid common sense that frequently flows from his lips. Sincerity is stamped upon his face, and tees | he Saye - Unlike the seems to come from his heart. “boy ” Harrison, his discourse is con- nected, though he sometimes wanders from his text, but always to speak out some idea sug- by Meserianetion of the words of the ipture. He illustrates his sayings by anec- dotes that are often humorous, and sometimes the audience breaks out in hearty iaughter at the somewhat novel similes. He constantiy roth and down the stage, and emphasizes is remarks by clapping his hands and stamp- ing my gee whenever the occasion seems to re- quire it. After explaining why he had entered upon his present mission, he passed to the subject he had announced on Friday evening. He cited the Bible as his authority for anointing, but the ex- act that authorized him to do as Christ is@aid to have done he failed to read, but, on the contrary, his right to do so seemed to be his own peculiar idea. His address was not convincing to the reporter for one, and seemed to be anything but to the point. ‘Atter he had finished his address, and while bis daughter led the audience in singing, six ns, three ladies and three geutiemen, went forward to a row of seats in front of the stage. When the singing ceased Mr. Barnes, holding in his hand a small vial of olive oul, such as is sold at the drug stores, anointed those seeking relief, first asking them if they had faith in the Lord. Each answered in the irmative, and, placing a drop on his fin- e touched them alternately on the sai’ a Join ing: “In Jesus’ precious name I thee with this oll of healing, in Christ's dear name. Go thy way in faith.” The meeting closed with the benediction, after a few words of exhortation. con ee LATE LITERARY NOTES, ‘What the Authors are Doing, Mrs. Ole Bull has just returned from Norway, with much fresh and important material for the work, and many think her best, which will be rem early in October by Houghton, Mit- Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney some years ago put no little wit and wisdom into a book called “Mother Goose for Grown Folks.” She has men” series will be on John Randolph, by Henry meses ‘already 7 helene John Q nor Adama, ya Alexander, John C. Calhoun and An- i 3 Gi t i