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any Me = BUILDING IN WASHINGTON. A Good Time te Erect Houses. & FAVORABLE CHANGE IN THE SITUATION SINCE SPRING—A MODEL MANSION—THE NEW HOUSE OF MR. JUSTICE MATTHEWS, CORNER N STREET AND CONNECTICUT AVENUE. The architects and builders of this District, @sa general thing, have had their hands full this season, though earlier in the year it was feared the action taken by the mechanics In fix- | ings higher rate of wages, together with the | advance made in the prices of material tor building, would have a very damaging effect. It isno doubt true that an undue publication at the prospecis of a buiiding boom im the ®arlier part of the season had the effect of raising the price of labor and material to such extent as to deter many from going on with their work this year. Prominent architects and builders state that the prospects have changed entirely since the early spring, and that now they are much better and altogether more favorable for those who desire to erect houses. Mechanics’ wages have been fixed by th nt action of both the build- ers and workmen, the prices being based upon the value of a mechanic's labor rather than an arbitrary uniform figure for all of the same guild. A REDUCTION IN COST OF MATERIAL. The figures for material, such as lumber, bricks, hardware. &c., have all come down to fair and reasonable rates since the season opened, and it is altogether probable that con- tracts for work can now be made much more satisfactorily to those proposing to erect dwel- lings than could have been done last spring. Many who realize these facts haverecently taken out permits for building, and the prospects look fair for constant employment ot mechanics and artizans all the coming fall and winter. There is cannot be erected in during the winter months as well as in New York, Chicago and other northern and western cities where the climate is much colder. A builder when interrogated upon this topic by a Stax reporter said: ‘Well, it is an old custom here to auut up shop to change the habit.” Experienced builders say that there is no better time than the present to ea change, and if those desirous of ef houses knew what was for their best interests they would have their plans prepared, their permits taken out, contracts made and their buildings put under roof before the cold and stormy season commences, so that the work- men can trim them out and do the inside work during the winter months. A BUILDING THAT SERVES AS AN EXAMPLE. One of the finest dwellings probably ever erected in this city, now just completed, was commenced in the manner indicated—that of the Hon. Stanley Matthews, on the prominent. and handsome site corner of N street and Con- necticut avenue. Work was commenced on the structure about the first of September one year ago. A visit to this mansion will convince any- one how good work can be done by taking time and not rushing the construction too much. The best judges concede this to be among the best, if not tir job ever completed in this city. The material is of the best that could be procured; the plan, appointment of rooms, adaptation for the fullest measure of con- Yenience and comfort, elegance of style, solidity of app ance. &c., rank it foremost among the elecant mansions of the west end of the city. THE SUPERSTRUCTURE is of pressed and moulded brick, with belt courses and trimmings of stone. The entrance way is on N street into an ample vestibule and hall, with open fire-place, high ceilings, wain- ecoating in six-inch panel work of solid oak with hard oil fin The basement contains two furnaces for heat- ing the house, coal bins, wash-room, kitchen, wine-room, drying room, servant’s rooms, veze. table room, pantries, servant's sleeping-rooms, dumb waiter, closets, a trunk-lift extending trom basement to garret, &c., all in the natural ‘woods, hard oil finish, and without paint. On the first floor is the dining-room and reception- Foom, adjoining the hall. The mantels are of eherry with mirrors and fireplaces, finished up im Chelsea (English) tile of unique design. THE RECEPTION ROOM includes the first round tower room at the cor- Ber, giving a very pleasing effect. The inside shutters are also of cherry. This room commu- Ricates with the parlors through high folding doors of solid oak on white pine ground. There are picture mouldings throughout the entire house corresponding to the finish of the rooms. ‘The floors throughout are of Georgia pine, and ll doors are of oak, except in a few cases, with eherry or other hard wood panels. All doors are mounted with bronze hinges, knobs, locks, &c. The parlors are capacious and look out on Connecticut avenue. These rooms are finished in cherry, with mantle of same, and Chelsea tile finish to fire-places. All these rooms are fin- ished in the natural woods, seasoned perfectly, and the finish is as smooth as the finest piano work. The music room, 18 by 30 feet, is on the same floor, and connected with the parlors and dressing room by a wide hall and folding doors, also of oak. This room is finished in cherry, with mantles of same, and tile fire-places. The transom lights above the windows and doors are of tinted lass, with lead sash, giving a mellow light throughout. The fire-place in the main hall isin one corner and coustructed of taney brickwork, with ornamental terra cotta frieze in mantle and heavy blue stong cap over mantle. THE STarRway. One of the features of this mansion is the heavy and ample stairway, of square structure, easy ascent and convenient landings,with heavy neweli-posts, railings and balusters, with panel base rise and tread, all of solid oak trom the pot- tom to the top. A large pier glass in oak frame- work is fixed at the entrance of the stair hall. ‘The uniform size of the thousands of panels is six inches square, and all in the finest cabinet ak and as smooth as a polished mirror. The walls above the wainscoating and the ceilings are of sand finish. The vestibule floor is of small angular tiling, In slate and red colors, sur- rounded by oak panel wainscoating. The vesti- — and transom-lights are in fancy colored THE LIBRARY is in the second story, and looks out on N street. The size is 18 by 28 feet, and the whole finish, including the bookcases, ig.in solid oak wood. A large bed chamber includes the tower room; the mantles of cherry, fire-places of faney brick, terra cotta and Chelsea tile. A large packing closet and large open hall, a bath-room ‘and closet and other closets, fitted up with shely- and drawers suited to ‘king and storin po fornia and @ bed chamber, 18 by 28 fect {ith lookout on Connecticut avenue, make up the appointments to this story. Perfect ventilation is secured to every room im the house. The third story has a bathroom and closet same as the story below. All the water closets are of the Demorest pattern, with the Burdett attachment, all mountings being in Bickel plate finish. The chamber over the library is of the same size as the library, with Tosewood mantle. and white pine capinet finish throughout. A large closet fitted up with shelves and drawers 1s connected with this room. An immense stained-glass window in lead sasir extends up the entire height of the staircase, and the inellow light gives a most pleasing effect from the base to the top. A large closet 10 by 12 fect is fitted up on this story en- tirely of cedar w clothing, which secures it from moths. The chamber over the parior is of the same size, and has oak mantles, with fire-place of fancy brig and terra cotta work, embellished with Chelsea lle. This room is finished in white pine and hard oil finish. b A PRIVATE ROOM for Judge Matthews .is also on this story and includes the tower room. A large fancy brick- work firtplace is made in this room in a recess. ‘The mantle is capped by bracket and shelf-work of white pine, with panel alcoves on either side, containing closets and shelving, fuel holder, &e., making a cozy and most comfortable fo nae ment, overlooking the streets and houses or & distance. There are twelve | cham- in the house, besides a servants’ dormitory the attic. A large yard is attached to the which is to be ornamented by shrub- Geaectiewes ti stables are upon a rate lot, an alley intervening. The cost of this Mansion is about 350.000, not including some extras. Mr. Joseph C. Hornblower Is the archi- Messrs. Dearing and Johnson the ders, ——_____+¢-__ ‘Trying the Government. ‘Prom the Philadelphia Press, ‘The lawyers for the star route defendants are ‘Sail proceeding upon the theory that it is the gove ernment that 1s on trial in these cases. According to their eulogies the expediters are about the most Wirsuous set Of martyrs tls countsy ee in the winter, and it is hard | od for storing bed and other 1 prea providing they are fresh. THE OYSTER SEASON. THE MYSTIC POWER OF THE LETTER “R”—KING OYSTER RESTORED TO HI8 THRONE AGAIN— WHAT DEALERS HAVE TO SAY—A GAIN IN FAT- NESS BUT A LOSS IN FLAVOR THIS SEASON. Some cynic has remarked that the letter I, ac- cording to the estimate of the generality of man- kind, is the most Important of the entire twenty- six, and the same authority further alleges that when the mystic combination I. O. U. is pre- sented to a man he 1s filled with the liveliest sensations. But just now everybody is conscious of the wonderful power of the letter R, which has reversed the sentence of banishment against the oyster and allowed the free American citizen to indulge in this luxury after a total abstinence of four months. The power of this letter tran- scends that of all the assemblies, parliaments and congresses of the world, In that it has en- acted and successfully carried into execution a sumptuary law. the temperance people could enlist the sympathies of this letter in their behalf prohibition would soon be an accom- plished fact. Why the letter R should have any to do with the eating or non-eating of oysters is one of those things that no fellow can tind out. The commonly accepted theory in regard to the matter is that oysters are unhealthy from the Ist of May to the Ist of September. But this is not the case. Oysters are eaten THE ENTIRE YEAR round in this city and in others. A prominent dealer told a Star reperter that he supplied physicians in this city with oysters in season and out of season. “The fact of the matter is,” continued the dealer, “oysters are good all the In hot weather itis hard to keep them fresh when they are brought any distance, but when they are in this condition they are just a8 good on the 4th of July as on the 4th of September.” The truth about this letter business fs that it is a fraud and an imposture and has nothing to do with oysters, but by a treacherous usurpa- tion it has succeeded in dethroning the king and relgning instead during four months of the year. The law, however, lends a helping hand by prohibiting oyster dredging. The spawning season is during the summer months, and if the dredging went on alarge number of ‘the young oysters would be destroyed, But the law and the popular delusion being sufficiently gratified, the first of September witnesses the restoration of the most succulent of bivalves to its place in the dietary. A new article ‘of diet is» very im- portant event In the lives of most people, and in the case of the oyster it is a very welcome one. It breaks in upon the monotony of our meals, in which beef and mutton have been re- ligiously alternating; it comes home to our v! at a late hour of the night and brings ; it swims vigorously about ina gallon of hot water and milk until the mixture seems full of oysters, and thus repels the cruel slanders on church fairs; it cools the parched and fevered throat of the man who had attended his lodge the night before; it makea a collapsed pocket- book feel plethoric; it is the patron of the quiet tete-e-tete after the theater or concert, and it Is an oasis in the dreary desert of the restaurant bill of fare. WHAT DEALERS SAY. Dealers say that the oysters will be very fat this year, owing to the large amount of rain that has fallen. Men experienced in the habits of oysters say that the mixture of fresh water with the salt has the effect of fattening them. One oysterman told a Star reporter that while the ‘ers would be fatter than they were last year their flavor would not be so fine. He thought that they would lose that peculiar salty flavor which is so toothsome. Still, he said, the main thing with the American consumer was the plumpness of the oyster, and the flayor was of secondary consideration.’ ‘In Europe,” he con- tinued, “a small oyster Is preferred, because they have found it has the finest flavor. But still it s much a matter of taste and we have customers for both kinds.” During the early part of the season, and, in fact, during the oyster vacation FRESH WATER OYSTERS are generally used to supply the market. These are taken from the fresh water creeks that open into the salt water bays. Later on in the season salt water oysters come into the market. The market here, which 1s considered one of the best,in the country, is supplied chiefly from Bal- timore, which lays under tribute the magnificent oyster fisheries of the Chesapeake bay. A large number are brought here in vessels direct! ly from Chesapeake bay, and a great many are shipped from Philadelphia. From the latter source are obtained the Morris Coves, a favorite oyster, with consumers. Large shipments are also made from New York, especially in the early part of the season. There is more than a fancied difference in the varions kinds of oysters which take the name from the locality in which they are grown. The kind and quality of the food which an oyster eats makes as much difference as with any other animal. The Lynnhavens, from Chesapeake Bay, have a great reputation with epicures, and so have the Saddle Rocks. But a dealer told a Star reporter that it was. difficult to get either of these varieties, as the d was about exhausted. But he said that made no difference in the sales, as the largest and fattest oysters were picked out and sold under these names. *‘As long as they are large and fat,” he said, with a smile, “people are sat- isfled, and eat them with as much relish as if they were the genuine varleties.” WASHINGTON AS AN OYSTER MARKET. In further conversation the dealer said that the oyster market of Washington was one of the best In the country. It was better than Balti- more, because there the best oysters were re- served for the wholesale trade and packing, and the local trade was supplied with the inferior oysters. The business done here in oysters dur- ing the season isan immense one. The daily shipments to supply the demand reaches enor- mous figures, and the business employs large numbers of people. The restaurants at once begin to experience a boom in the yolume of their business as soon as the season opens, and y of them would be obliged to close up if eprived of their revenue from oysters. Yes- terday being the first day of the season, the oyster fast was broken by the orthodox and the restaurants did a thriving business. The paper boxes which are used to put up fried oysters for home consumption were once more seen on the streets, and the glaring signs that announced steamed oysters lighted up the fronts of the va- rious restaurants. The oyster is king once more, and his reign promises to be not only sat- isfactory but successful. The business of expo oysters from this country to Europe, which with a ship- ment of ten barrel: at six years SE0, has grown to large proportions, and is ily in- creasing. The English epicures turned up their noses in disdain when first asked to eat American oysters, but they have since learned to appreciate the superior qualities of our bi- valves. THE USE OF OYSTER SHELLS, Until recently oyster shells have been used only for making lime. A few years ago some- body discovered that the shells made capital foundation for oyster beds, and within a year or two many thousands of bushels have been used for this purpose. The oysterman selects a good spot for a bed, and simply dumps the shells overboard. ‘This is done in July and Au- gust, during the spawning season. The spawn attaches itself to the shell, and in two ears the shell is covered with oysters, ranging from the size of a silver quarter to that of a half dollar, Then the oysters are big enough to seed, and are planted as such. Sometimes thirty or forty such oysters are found attached to’a single shell. The shells are worth three cents per bushel when thrown overboard, and at the end of two years they are worth from 50 to 75 cents per bushel, making a very good margin for rofit. This method of raising seed oysters is ing rapidly extended, and a number of steam. ers have recently been built at New Haven, Conn., with special apparatus for transplant the shells. ge) ————~+o-______ AUTUMN FASHIONS, That Which Will be Worn During the Coming Season—New and Costly Fab- rics—A Farewell to Plush and False Mair. From Our Own Correspondent. New York, August 31.—Do the readers of fashe ion articles ever stop to think how misleading ‘they are and how they misrepresent the majority of women? Do they help in their minds, as they Yead the descriptions of fine dresses, of filmy lace Grapery, of richly wrought ornamentation, the very small number out of the whole to whom these refer while the great majority wear all their lives the sad garment of necessity? For one, I feel when I am writing of fashions, in which only one woman tn a hundred can feel a interest, that I am doing a bitter inj to the Ihituence, ‘while’ the ‘rest. soent lives in calico and consider alpaca of ‘Why do devote themselt exclusively to the records toilets, oftentimes evolved out oF emery men would be glad to know how to make their Prints and simple woolens up with taste, asks the ‘working mother of a family at the But in very truth there is no necessity for devoting suc- cessive columns to the description of the corse) of prints and woolens, for the former are subj to such limitations as quickly disposes of them, and paper patterns are cheap and plenty. The only unlimit field is supp! by the imagina- tion, and the of the extravagance of women 4s always interesting to male readers, even thot they be living off some woman’searnings. This thought may not be very apropos, but It was sug. gested by the brilliant display of samples” in the sanctum of a buyer for a famous New York house. “Yes,” he replied,in answer to a remark, “ladies will have magnificent materials to choose from when they get back from Saratoga and Newport. In twenty-five years I have not seen anything in the way of design like the manufactures of the present season. Look at this now!” It was a velvet broché upon a rose-pink surah ground. The clustering leaves and tendrils of the pattern were in dark wine color and tay in shadows which lghtened as they approached a long, full-blown flower. Halt of this was In shadow, half in light, which came from beneath, while the dark side was touched by spots of electric light, producing a wonderful effect, at once tlluminating and skede- tonizing the object, as if anelectric arc had really Struck down upon it, “Artistic 2” repeated the buyer, “I should say so. fe will require an artist to make them, up. Here ig one-that ts ft to put under a frame.” ft was a plece of satin broche, with ostrich feathers in pale Yellow thrown upon’ a tinted ground, the stems catching a dropped rosebud and a piece of curling and twisted smilax, while in careless proximity lay a lovely bouquet conststing principally of @ large, exquisitely shaded rose and a few vivid leaves. What a bewildering composition for a design to be woven into adress fabric! It might have been coped from @ ladles’ dressing table without the change of a single detail. “Cost? 0, Well, don’t you know such stuffs as these are not used for entire dresses, but for trains, the front of the skirt, and watteau back—besides, growth of the age must keep getting something finer.” MAGNIFICENT OPPORTUNITIES. ‘There is no doubt in regard tothe opportunities for magnificence for those who possess the incl!- nation and the means to pay for ft, and ft 1s, per- haps, as praiseworthy to clothe the human form divine with beauty, as to expend it upon wall Paper or a race horse. The new designs are all in broche patterns, but they are not all expensive or showy. ‘There are broche patterns upon wool that ‘are scarcely distinguishable from the self- colored ground, and, indeed, though there are In- dividual examples of rich ‘shading and striking comparisons, yet the general effect of the modes for the coining season will be plain, dark and selt- colo The richest and most novel effects in day cos- tumes will come from the new application of leather and gold embroidery. Leather, as applied to the ornamentation of dresses and jackets is not quite new, but it is the first time it has appeared in a popular form, that is to say, upon costumes that can be purchased outside of Paris at a price (unmade) perhaps something under $150, The leather is cut out in designs and applied with embroidery silk in firm and effective stitch to the cloth, the outlines being further emphasized and enriched by bead work, gold upon bronze and brown, bottle green upon’ myrtle, electric blue upon cadet blue and the like. “Applied ornament- ation fs not restricted to leather. Thore are ap- pliques of plush, plain and embossed; appliques of velvet, plain and broché; all outlined and varied by many different kinds of raised work in brald- ing and embroidery. This decoration in reltet 13 used largely for tabliers on the front breadths of walking skirts which are otherwise plain. The principal part of the ornamentation 1s placed upon the front of the dress, the back being draped or Plaited and the jacket bordered or finished to cor- Tespond with the skirt. THE REVIVAL OF SOUTACHE, There 1s a sudden revival, one might almost call {t an upheaval of soutache (braided) embroidery. It 1s also used in the pyramidal forms, as it was forty years ago, but itis made still more effective by forming a part of the pattern of the narrow military braids set up on edge, in what would be called in metal the “knife blade” pattern. Bestdes the pyraiid designs for the front of skirts bratd- Ing Is used In arabesque and other designs for cos- tumes, and specially for Jackets, which will be a feature of fall costumes. The soutached jacket 1s not very long, and exceedingly jaunty. It 1s held to be in its most suitable relation to exterior objects when it 1s placed in conjunction with a walking skirt of large plaided Scotch wool, the dark wine color or green ground checked in shades of brown, green and yellow. The skirt 1s not flounced, but the front is bla, and the slight drapery to which the most careless effect is im- parted, but which 1s firmly held at the stdes, 13 also laid on the bias. ‘These costumes are exceed- ingly youthrul, and their effect 1s enhanced by a Scotch cap, with cock’s pluie. More quaint, sober, and altogether dignified are the long redingotes of dark green or soft brown cloth, bratded down the sides and upon the collar or cape, the front opening to disclose the braided front of the walking skirt. These are handsome, and have a picturesque effect, though not necessa: rily expensive. In fact, any lady who 1s expert with her needle could have a complete sult stamped and then brald It for herself. CASHMERE ROBES. ‘The beautiful open embroidery upon the mate- rial which machinery has placed within the reach of almost every one, and whioh fast summer gave the requisite touch to those hitherto dimcult ma- terials, nun’s velling and the characterless (when Plain) pongee, reappears upon cashmere, fine camel’s hair, Carmelite cloth, and many other soft plain woolen fabrics. The colors are dark and the “cloth” shades maintain their supremacy. The embroidery 1s executed upon the flouncing, and in narrower strips for basque and paniers. A com- plete dress of embroidered cashmere, with bonnet and feathers matching in color, 1s extremely ele- gant and very useful, and suitable for an early autumn walking or visiting dress. ‘The cashmere morning robes are another of the revivals, and will remind many elderly ladies of the days when they were on the threshold, rather than nearing the back-doorof active life. ‘They do not yet signal the return of the flounced and em- broldered underskirt, for they close down the front; but they are cut stralght an4 bordered with cashmere bands with binding, or with embroidery. GOOD-BYE COMBINATIONS. Combination costumes hay? been dragging out an existence which was not sanctioned by high fashion for over a year past—and have now re- ceived a final blow from which they will not be Ukely to recover. It was thelr economy that kept them so long in place; the possibilities thoy afforded of making over and concealing the rav- ages of wear and time witha few yards of new material. It was time, however, to get rid of them. They had become things of too many shreds and patch@s—a good enough surface often with a plece stuck on here and there, without any appar- ent object except to emphasize the defects or the Wearer's anatomy. How often one must repeat that the fewer pleces in adesign the better, and the more cut up the surface and blocked off into parts the more clownlsh and patch-worky it a) Plush will not be used largely as a terial or asa trimming this season. Of course those who pald enormous prices for plush gar- ments and plush trimmed suits last season Will Not relinquish them; but few will care to repeat So doubtful an experiment, Plush is useful ‘and handsome for upholstery, and there are cases when it may be adopted as a ning in preference to any other fabric, on account of its warmth and softness, and its freedom from many of the objec- tonable’ characteristics of fur. Moreover, if our climate was @ reliable one, and the cold a8 severe throughout the winter as ft 1s occasionally, Amer. ican women could not do better than follow the example of the Russtan ladies, and adopt a single fu med suit of plush as a permanent winter di But this ts not the case, Women who are not rich require several changes of garments cy order to equalize the conditions of the tempera- ture, if not for the sake of fashion, and a plush suit 1s not only Reavy and expensive, but almost useless, as it can be so Itttle worn. There is no doubt, however, that velvet, plain and emi will be the leading rich fal will Tush fh pears, ire3s_ma- Emt velvet, finest cloaks; but velvet, fur trimmed and in fine dark shades of wine, myrtle Lge) cadet biue, and others will be in request for ingote suits and the more useful jacket costumes. It 1s fortu- nate for those whose means do not admit of pay- ing from six to ten dollars per yard for Lyons vel- vei sign in a2 application of velvet oreplush, but the braiding ts eonaidered ‘the most tailor. A third style ts ‘more ordinary, but good. It 1s made bf fing, dark, checkered cl medium, large—and all of thi ‘The walking skirt ts trimmed with kilted fi the ppper Part consisting of a straight (cut on ‘@ bias) and trimmed with a th a The jacket has a ion back, and It is cut in ‘Dut ight across thé front. Sleeves ways pet high in the shoulder. The Newmarket goat and Jacket hold their own ove, because these is. ovective and Det ause the latter ve tr d to city street, Dae tess to driving, country and traveling wear. The ‘soft felt nae simply bound, and cower with a band, are gm excellent accompan! spotlable ai If, however, visits are to be made, atid a “town” hat is required while traveling or staying in the country, the long gauze vells, which have become a permaent iettaton, are sufficient guarantee against ordinary mis- chances, FETE TOILETTES. Some lovely dresses have been sent out for en- tertainments at Newport and elsewhere, which it may be wellto mention, as they furnish sugges- tons for evening costumes. One was of black broché gauze, a very rich pattern, draped over black and white striped satin, and trimmed with Diack and white lace. Another displayed a coat of pale yellow brocade on an ivory ground in con- Juuction with a skirt of mtxed ivory and yellow Satin, Doth trimmed with beautiful white lace. ‘The small train was of ivory satin embroidered up the back with an exquisitely shaded vine of pale yellow wall flowers with leaves. The opening of the lappels, which were lined with satin disclosed this, while the cut-away style in front exhibited to advantage alternate crimped rum™ies of Ivory and yellow satin, the yellow covered with white lace, which also formed a rich jabot at the neck and Truffles for the sleeves. For a young lady a dress was made of ficelle embrotdery over red surah, the hat of ficelle glazed straw, trimmed with red feathers. A more original dress consisted of 9 coat of flne China blue cloth over a poppy red skirt of surah satin, made with soft puffings alterna- ting with clusters of narrow flounces. -A dog col- lar of lace, with standing ruffles and square ends, accompanied this tollet. Red and yellow appear wherever there 1s mixed color in design or ornamentation, and red and yel- low will take the place of white very largely in the handsome tollettes which will be tade forthe coming season. It is not the coarse red and yellow, however, seen in bandanna handkerchiefs, or in the artificial hue of roses and sunflowers, but much softer, darker, deeper, and paler tints—tones that approach nature, though we never know how far they are from imitating it tll we can compare one with the other. THE LATEST CRAZE {stor Turkish embroidery ornamentation for the fronts of handsome esthetic gowns. A dress of ecru China crepe was trimmed recently with two Tows of Turkish embroidery in teat pattern in solid gold, and several pongees have been made up with the rich borders in varied colors and mixture of gold thread so characteristic of the Turkish embroldery we are acquainted with. Quite an im- petus has been given to this industry lately in onstantinople by the efforts of some English and American ladies to help poor women by making the work known and finding for it a marke These have been most successful. The long strips of Turkish cloth, more or less flue, are‘embroidered at both ends and on both sides. “They have been used for chairs and table scarfs, but are now uti- lized for very effective dress decoration. Em- brotgered handkerchiets,toozmake lovely tlchus for morning wear or in place of lace, and there are many uses in the way of curtain and mantel piece drapery to which this work can be applied, and for which it 13 valuable as the gold does not tar- nish nor do the colors change. “A novelty in the way of lace pins sscures the bouquet at the throat at the same time that it fastens the tle, and there 13.a bracelet just Imported which clasps the arm without hinge or fastening and cannot be dis- placed. Itis.a “souvenir” ornament with legen- dary inseription, Fans will be matters of great importance dur- ing the coming season, the bead and black fan with gold stieks beitig prominent among the popu- lar styles; but the Tan of fans 1s the clear ace with gold embroidered monograms very delicately wrought in the center of the lace or carved on the ‘old-worked ‘sticks of mother of pearl. “Feather fans with amber and tortolse-shell_ sticks will also be in demand, and specially painted faus with sou- Yoni designs or designs by famous artists. Molre Will be used 'for pafnted fans, but painted fans must be very beautiful or uncommon, or have some assoctation, to be interesting or vaiunble, ordinary painung upon fans having been done ad nauseam, A permanent advance seems to hi or at least some rellef from folly: ot Present modes of dressing the hate ‘outs for the street gre plain, warm, sensible, well made, and discard not only the vuigar ornamenta tion, which is so far dishguring, but the very high, dangerous heels which we call French, though thé best taste of France has long ago gotten rid of them. The soft, elastic kid boot, as now made, Joos well upon the foot, and 1s ree from all the cramping and deforming tendencies of the old styles. In it a woman can walk and still be happy. The crueities to which women have submitted their beautirul hair would be a theme for sympa- thizing chronicterg and a text for another Fox's Book of Martyrs, if they had been perpetrated” by any but themselves, But human hair cannot stand everything any more than human flesh, and at last it gave out; and all over this and other civilized countries we have now or had recently the spectacle of women, stili young, with hair re- duced to a small wisp or prematurely gray, and generations back have been searched for a cause when It lay right before them in the shape of curling trons, barbarous frizzing pins and unclean Tats and chignons, But that is all over now. At least, one may hope It is. It will be if the incoming race of wo- men physicians do their duty, and order what not to do, as well as what to do. ‘At present thé hair— what there 13 of tt—ts dressed simply and daintlly; low behind, waved naturally in front, and many a woman has discovered that she hasa finely-shaped head—a fact that would never have been suspect- @d while she wore faise hair. JENNY JUNE. ———_——_-e.______ A Last Word on the Pharmacy Matter. To the Editor of Tar Eventne Stan: It may not be amiss for me to say a few words regarding the controversy about the action or inaction of the commissioners of pharmacy. As for the charge of “Assistant” of having been victimized to the tune of $3.25, the facts are as follows: The registration tee of $3.00 1s pre- scribed by law, and was paid by all who were registered. As for the 25 cents notary’s fee “Assistant” is no doubt correct. I was ap- pointed a notary public for the convenience of those wishing to make the necessary afMidavit with their application for registration, and, as I had to pay $5 for my seal, besides & notary’s license, (since abolished) I proceeded to charge applicants for registration the customary notary’s tee of 25 cents. Puce gy cietatver the board de- cided that it would be better to refund to methe expenses mentioned, and have no charge made tor taking the affidavits. This was accordingly done, and to all those whom I could call to mind as having paid the fee of 25 cents (there may have been eight or ten guch) that amount was returned. It is quite likely, though, that your correspondent may have been overlook I may here state that it was hardly possible for me to tell who had paid the fee or who had not, as a great many pharmacists who came for registration had thelr applications already made out and sworn to before other notaries, while others brought just the $3, and nothing was said about the 25 cents. I hope this explanation will satisfy both ‘-Falsehood” and “No Gentleman” and prevent the necessity for a trip to Bladensburg; and I may add, that if “Victim” will call on me 1 shall be happy to ren to him that ill-gotven half-shekell of silver. And now a few words In regard to the a) phar. ar in 80 ent inactivity of the commissioners of macy. While the law does not make it, many wordt, their duty to act as spies and in- formers on their fellow-pharmaqdsts, they con- sider it their duty'tolsee that its Provisions are that the new makes of velveteen have reached such perfection and offer go excellent a substitute, Of these the “Nonpareil,” introduced last win! 4 is poe in all respects the most successful. Velveteens are neither more nor less than the orl- ginal English fustian, but the modern methods of Manufacture have imparted to it quite a new character, just as they have given us in the cotton foulards and satines fabrics so exquisitely fine, Soft and beautiful that if they did not look like Silk foulard and genuine satin, they are quite handsome enough to be prized for their own sakes. ‘Thisisalso the case specially with the Nonpareil vel- lor atter Directions are given for mak! m complied with, and have in a quiet way done a great deal in.that direction; and I dare say I lo not claim foo much when I assert that more than nine-tenths of the pharmacists of the Dis- trict comply with the law. Violations of the same have been reported, but Investigation has in some cases falled to produce such evidence as would be necessary to sustain charges before a court of justice, while in other cases the irregu- lar practice has been:discontinued on notice. nder the first registration many who could not think of standing an, examination had to be registered, merel A use they were at that e ‘up; that ts, laying the pile (which and rich) the right way, and if lowed it is impossible to distingut garment made from one of Lyo conditions being equal. time engaged ‘in ractice of pharmacy, and the pharmacy act has done a vast amount of good already, and will become of continuously greater value % the publio,‘as this element is being in one way and sno been rid of and ronsoat by luates in pharmacy, or such as ke reus f have proven lieziscives to be Reald this, the act has of peculiar les bonelit to the registered assistants In making it een ee “Ta view ny his it te yl. j iar interest to them to see ite are not di: by isregarded by to- | whilo it would perhaps be un cde |B oi dividual to take steps: ers to justice, bare could effect y oer August 28, 1883. accomplish this “No.” saya keeping a doot?”. ever see anybody keep a “I never did,” says he. “Well, did yon ever attend lectuses in A or anywhere, on how to keep a door?” course not,” says he. “Well, my dear sir, LITERARY NOTES, CAMPS IN ROCKIES. Wx. a Gnommax. Ter Yong Ghats Beril The author of this volume, who is a member of the Alpine Club, an accomplished and en- thusiastic sportsman, a close observer, and @ clever scholar, withal, has given a very inter- esting account of his experiences in the west, which includes life on the frontier, sport and hardships in the Rocky Mountains, ané a glimpse at the cattle ranches on the plains, Persons interested in wood-craft will be fascl- nated with it, and asa guide to those who de- sire to cover any part of the same ground it will prove invaluable. The descriptions of scenery. etc., are vivid,and thechapters on animal lifeand habits are intensely interesting,—some of the stories told of the beaver seeming to be almost beyond belief, though doubtless entirely true. There is a good deal of Ego in the book, but this perhaps ls inevitable, since it is the record of personal experiences, and the author “is an Englishman.” It has a good index, and is ac- companied, we may add, by a map based on the most recent government surveys, which adds considerable to the satisfaction of the reader. ington: W. Ballantyne & Son. The “Fair Philosopher” seems to have set the critics by the ears. They do not know what to make of her, apparently, for no two of appear able to agree as to the merits of the book. It is quite safe to say, however, that It is far above the average of summer stories, and that in spite of some crudities it is likely to survive the sea- son of its appearance—which .ls a good deal, now-a-days. The heroine, Drosée, is an intel- lectual, well-read woman, herseif an author, but by no means a blue-stocking or pedant, with ideas on religion a little hazy, inclining some- what toward, but not quite reaching, atheism. In fact, it is impossible to tell just what shedoes or does not belleve, as her thoughts and philo- sophisings sometimes get beyond the ordinary reader's depths. But she is a true woman for all that—frank and loveable. The other char- acters are cleverly drawn, true to models every one has known, and the story as a whole is one that 18 likely to delight a good many readers. YS IN NTATION Shepard. Washington: W. Ballantyne & Son. Perhaps the best evidence of the merit and truthfulness to natuge of this book is the high praise with which it has been welcomed In all the southern states, where its qualities can be pest judged. 1tisasimple and falthtul description of days and scenes that are gone forever—and all the more to be appreciated for that fact—written by a Georgia matron for her grandchild. A lady from that Section after reading itsatd: “I feel asit I were that child, for I had almost the same exper- fences.” The negro dialect 1s excellently rendered, and the whole book forms a pleasant picture of the pleasant side of life in the slave states “ befo’ the wah.” DEMOSTHENES. By 8. H. Burcuen, M.A. New York: D. Appleton & Oo. " Washingvon: £. B. Mo- This ts the latest addition to the “Classical writers Series,” edited by thhe eminent English historian, Professor Green, and one of the best if not the very best ofthe series yet issued. Al- though the volume is small, it contains substan- tially ail that is of vital interest concerning the age in which Demosthenes lived, his public life and speeches and his position as a statesmanand an orator, To those who have not enjoyed op- portunities for classical study, and who yet de- sire to know something of classical history and literature, it will be peculiarly acceptable. THE AMERICAN IRISH, and Thelr Influence on Trish Politics. By Putiie H. BaGENat, B.A. Roberts Brothers. Washington: J. J. Chapman. The Irish people will lose none of their pride of nationality by reading this book. Nor can they complain that Mr. Bagenal has in any wise failed to look after their claims. He has per- formed his task, however, ina fair and candid spirit, and the effect of his effort on other minds must be to increase the apes respect for the gifts and achievements of his countrymen. The book gives also a pretty clear idea of Irish politics since 1848, and contains a great deal of interest- ing information. THE HANDBOOK OF POLITICS: From July 1. 1880, to July 31, 1852. By Hon. Epwarp McPurrsom, LL.D. Wasiington: James J. Chapman. From the publisher we have the above invalu- able publication, without which it is quite within bounds to say that no one desiring to keep well posted in publicaffairs can afford to be. It covers, a8 will be geen by the dates given, a most inter- esting period in both national and state political history, and has, what is of the utmost value in a pabiession of the kind, a full and intelligible index. PANTALETTA: A ROMANCE 0) SHEHELAND. An American Satire. New York: American News Company. In this ridiculous and fantastic tale, told some- what after the style of Gulliver's Travels the au- thor, who 1s said to be a journalist, embodies his ideas of what the condition of things would be did women’s rights prevail It is not likely to have any appreciable effect on the movement. A number of good things are promised in the pages of The Century for the near future. Henry James, jr., is to contribute a series of eight papers under the title of “The Point of View,” in the form of letters, from different points of view, supposed to be written by Ameri- can men and women living in Europe; Frank R. Stockton wiil furnish a humorous account of his experiences in France and Italy, whither he sailed last Saturday; and in the February num- ber Mr. W. D. Howells is to commence a new story to be called “A Sea Change,” in which he will deal with problems of self-help among women, and with certain tragic phases ot New England life. “MeNally's System of Geography,” published by A. S. Barnes & Co., New York and Chicago, impresses one on short examination as com- bining many points of excellence. The maps are remarkably clear and distinct, and appar- ently correct, as well, and the engravings are well drawn and handsomely executed. Whether it is better than other geographies in use or not only the experience of teachers can satisfacto- rily answer; and we may add that It ought to be a great deal better before they are thrown out of schools to give place to it. The Art Amateur for September furnishes a notable array of flower designs for painting and embroidery, and handles a long list of art topics in {ts usual practical and interesting manner, in- cluding cloisonne enamels, book binding, the art of illumination, and curious shoes and pat- tens, copiously and handsomely illustrated. Among other subjects discussed are painting ivory photographs, stencilling with oil colora, designs in silverware, and bad taste in uphol- stery. Montague Marks, publisher, 283 Union Square, New York. Harper's Monthly for October is to have an article by John Bigelow entitled “The Railway Invasion of Mexico,” in which some startling disclosures on the subject are promised. The same periodical will commence the publication of a new novel by Miss Constance Fenimore oonees which has been christened “For the fajor. Charles Scribner's Sons will soon publish a new and complete three volume edition of the works of the late Hon. George~ P. Marsh, who dieda short time ago while serving hiscountry as its Minister at Rome. They will, it is safe to say, contribute an important and interesting contr, bution to American literature. Col. John G. Nicolay, of this city, contributes ing the month is marked by no incident worthy of note. This distinguished member of the solar family is steadily coming nearer, and has so far advanced toward his nearest approach or opposition that, at the end of the month, nis serene face will come glowing above the horizon at 8 o'clock in the evening, to be followed two hours later by that of his brother, Jupiter. Sa- turn plays the second part in the of the ber morning sky. Indeed, for months to come the two planets will be {1 + inked in the attention of the observer, whd will gladly welcome their appearance in the evening sky, though they are still included in the list of morning stars. Both Saturn and Jupiter re- flect more light than their immense distance from the sun would warrant. It ie not improb- able that a Agog ing this light Te. their own surfaces, for larger the planet jonger it takes to cool, and these giants of the system | are sup} to bein a condition more nearly resembling that of the sun than the earth. Sa- turn rises now a few minutes before 10 o'clock in the evening; at the end of the month he rises at 8 o'clock. NEPTUNE, 1s morning star and retains his place as herald of the morning trio, pursuing his unséen path among the stars without an incident to break the monotonous routine. Those who wish to trace his position on the star maps will find it on the ist in right ascension 3h. 7m., and in declination 15° 42’ north. Neptune rises now | about half-past 9 o'clock in the evening; at the close of the month he rises about half-past 7 o'clock. VENUS ig evening star, and reigns with queenly and acknowledged power over the morning and evening stars, as well as the mighty multitude of glistening suns that stud the celestial track. No student of the skies will tail to grant her the ascendancy, or fail to note her increasing size and brilliancy. Her diameter now measures nearly twenty seconds, and at the end of the month it will measure twenty-six seconds. It must be remembered that the more her diam- eter increases.and the more nearly she ap] hes the earth, the less of her enlightened disc Is turned towards us. If, when she passes between us and the sun, her bright side were turned | towards us instead of her dark side, she would | be a glorious planet, such a8 never was seen by | mortal eye. The progress of Venus during September is made specially interesting by the occurrence of an important epoch in her course. On the 27th, at 2 o'clock in the morning, she reaches her greatest eastern elongation, or most distant oint from the sun on his eastern side. On the th ot February, she was in superior conjunc- tion with the sun, and became evening star. A month or two later, she was visible as a small star close to the sun, disappearing shortly after sunset. Ever since, she has nm traveling eastward, setting later every evening, and growing more brilliantly beautiful. in the 27th she will reach the end of the invisible chain that binds her to the sun. Nota second farther can she swerve. The sun’s resistless attraction turns her course and directs her retrograde steps westward, until, in our view, she has retrod the whole eastward course and reached her inferior conjunction and transit. Mil- lions of observers are watching her re- cedi steps with eager interest, for the goal she is bound for ushers in the astrono- mical event of the year if not of the cen- tury. Venus at her elongation is 46° 86' east of the sun. As 15° represents one hour of time, it will be plain that she can never be visible much more than three hours after sunset ; as the same laws prevail In reversed order when she is morn- ing star, for the same reason she can never be seen more than three hours before sunrise. The increased velocity of the planet's motioh will soon be apparent, While she has been nearly seven months in passing from superior conjunc- tion to eastern elongation, she will be less than three months in returning from eastern elonga- tion to inferior conjunction. This most brilliant poreon of her course will torm a planetary study for the student of the stars, as easily followed as It is interesting, and iliustrative of the laws that govern the movements ofthe Inferior planet The uncertainty of the weather in the nort temperate zone will prevent its being largely chosen as an observing locality; but some sta- tions will be chosen there in order to bring the observers at as widely separated points as |- ble. It is discouraging to think that at only half of these stations clear weather may be reasonably anticipated, and that this expendi- ture of time, labor and money will be all in vain as regards half of the observers. But the American Fables. From the Detroit Free Prees. A Clam who was in the habit of sunning him (« self on a sand-bank was out one day cogitating over the Eastern question when along came a Fisherman, who said: “Mr. Clam, why can't you and I be friends?” “I see no objections,” replied the Clam. “Nor I, either. It has hurt my feelings mang atime and oft to see how you avold me. Come out and let's haye a friendly talk.” “But I'm not at home on dry Jand.” =, n ot at home In the water.” The Clam wes finally Induced to crawl to the shore, and he had scarcely stated his position on the Free Trade question when the man lifted him off his feet and placed him in a basket. “What's this for?” demanded the Bivalve. “It's a mere matter of Friendship?” was the reply. “Asa Clam in the water your good will is of no use tome. Ana Clam tn the Frying- Pan I shall appreciate you for your full worth. MORAL: The Friendship of some men ts to be dreaded far more than their Enmity. Secondly—A Clam who is doing well enongh inthe Water Is a Fool to leave it for the Shore. THE MOUSE AND THE LION. A Lion who had lived for several years in @ certain neighborhood and gained general re- spect for the manner in which he had conducted himself was suddenly made the object of sland ersand abuse. When he came to trace these stories back he found that they had been started by a Mouse. ia ‘hy have you slandered me?” demanded the lon. “Because the people will only accept me as @ Mouse,” was the reply. “But am I to blame for that?” “Perhaps not, but why should you be a Lion, able to strike down the Ox, whileI am buts puny Mouse, able only to frighten women end children? What grieves me is the fact that Na- ture made a mistake.” «Very well,” said the King of Beasts, “you go forth and roarand kill and I will become @ louse.” The Mouse stalked into the forest and began to grow! and roar, but his efforts were received with laughter. After he had tried It again and inthe Owl dropped down beside him and observed : “Instead of making me afraid you only dls- turb my slambers and annoy my friends. me inside, out of the malaria. MORAL: The Mouse who nibbles at crumbs is doing all that Is expected of him. Secondly—He who looks for the mistakes of others simply shows the world his envious feel- ngs L®1 OF LETTERS REMAINING IN THE WASHINGTON CITY POST OFFIOR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 2, 1889. qi RLS peers STE not called for wit ith they will be sens, At forwithin onemonth they other half may have their labor crowned with a brilliant success that will make up for the dis- appointment, and be rewarded by the gratitude of the generations that will the earth in the one hundred and twenty-two years that will ey oe another transit of Venus recurs, in . Venus sets on the Ista few minutes after 8 o'clock in the evening; at the close of the month she sets about half-past 7 o'clock. MERCURY is evening star, and contributes an unusual share to the incidents that diversify the annals of the month. On the 28th, at 6 o'clock in the after- noon, Mercury reaches his greatest eastern elon- gation, the day after Venus has touched the same point in her course. He is then 25° 54° east of the sun, while Venus is a little less than 46° 36’. Although at nearly his maximum dis- tance from the sun, he is unfavorably situated for observation, on account of his southern de- clination; for the farther north the planets are the better is the opportunity for observing them. It is the last time during the year when there is the least iceman bas seeing Mercury as evening star. This will an excellent op- LADIES' Liat. johnson Mire Boardiey Mrs Alice Jefferson Mine ¢ Bayard Mre A Saokeon aoe Bards Bessie Jodueon Mere Wi Baltimore Mrs Dora Bins Kettle M Brooks Frances 7 Bray Sie Ponies B wis Me Mary ca wis Browa Giante Lockwood are Brooks Geo Minnor Alice Boya Hattie | fara Clare E Barke Mrs India V ein Mw Onsltne rown Lizzie oatere Ch Stason ‘lier conan Mrs Annie Restor Susan Mrs Pat's, aie ‘Sarah Hingold Fitea, ferrets ire Julia Birvter tre re Trundie Hattie L” Mary Filings Mary a Taylor Felictorre am BB Fd Sarah C Haseis Victoria Watson? Hage Irving Mes a Willian M Tonner ace Walker Mery Sones Med Weston Nettie johnson Wilson Naucy MISCELLANEOUS. Miss Mary, care Mrs Ware GENTLEMEN'S LIsT, Branthevis Gheee Tgwrenoe Warren &, ruuthay wn DS Minkin Cues Babb Bitchel De ape Bane Edward retin Bowle Frenk | George EB portunity for comparing the respective limits of | Carru the two planets as they travel eastward from the sun. Venus will be recognized by any one who looks at the western sky. Mercury will be found about midway between Venus and the sun, seven degrees farther north than Venus. He sets on the 28th, about nalf-past 6 o'clock. Venus sets on the same day about half-past 7 o'clock. Mercury sets now a few minutes after 7 o'clock in the evening; atthe end of the month he sets at half-past 6 o'clock. MARS is evening stat and scarcely worth mentioning for any part he plays among his peers. Con- tented with the laurels won in August, when he bore his part in the lovely evening pictures, with which, in conjunction with ¥enus, he di- versified the sky, he now hastens to retire into a temporary eclipse in the sun's bright beams. We have already alluded to his conjunction with Mercury on the 2ist. Mars now sets about twenty minutes before 8 o'clock in the evening; ¥ the end of the month he sets about half-past o'clock. URANUS is evening star until the 11th, when, at 8 o'clock in the afternoon, he comes into conjunction with the sun. He ts the last of the four giant planets to reach the goal, turning the point when they are far on their way to opposition. At conjunction he 1s joined with the rising sdetine with nim? ‘and as completely hiddes from human gaze as he was until 1 when Herschel introduced him to terrestrial obsery- ers. After the 11th Uranus gery Spe and will hold his place on the list until 0) tion, Uranus sets on the ist about 7 o'clock in the evening; on the 30th he rises about half- past 4 o'clock in the morning. THE MOON. The September moon fulis on the 27th at twenty-six minutes after midnight. It is the beautiful harvest moon, and possesses special claims to distinction. Forowing tothe position of the ecliptic in regard to the equator at this season, the moon rises for itive the article “ Lincoln” to bed =. ‘gota of = Britannica, the volume which has just been issued. = See SEPTEMBER SKIES, 2, several consecut nights with only s comparatively small interval between the successive 5 short au- fumnal da seem thas to be ® prolonged by the floods very moo} make night beautiful as day. ng Phenomenon is as urner er a johnson 8 F ‘aiker Jeckeon Wilon Geo Jones W White Geo B ary Seed Williams HW King LW Woieh goes a Esverty Aifcoa Weichte Wille ‘Wood Wm Layman Eiw'd P MISCELLANEOUS. oF petal Great N W Tel‘ ‘Independent Copying Oo” Geo “aq Davis Granville Mrs Mary Grace Mrs Mary td ‘The Planets of the Month—The Transit of Venus—The Harvest Moon, Etc. From the Providence Journal. JUPITER 1s morning star, and holds the palm among the radiant throng that in the small hours of the night make the star-lit canopy of heayen glor- fous to behold. He has the advantage of Venus in one respect, for his light is brought ont in grand proportions against the dark background of the sky, while the disc of Venus loses a por- tion of its golden radiance in the bright glow of easil: lained the rotation of the earth, “Bat in the older ties, i ae a Fi i eae ij E fe H i i a | : be 2, E E i ; i LB i ® 4 i sag itEE it te bi ll | .